Torque it to 17 ft pounds and then drive around for 3 or 4 hours and then re torque it again to 17 ft pounds and it should never leak after that. You have to do this because those o rings in the gasket will settle down after driving it a little bit so you need to tighten them again after they have settled down.
Ive just done this job on a 1998 2.2 Camry after watching your video. I downloaded the workshop manual pdf for €20 which had all the torques. The top bolts are 44Nm. I have driven the car for an hour and I have no oil drips. After a few months its good to go back and recheck the bolts are still tight as often they are not and need re torquing.
Thank you for your great video. I'm getting ready to replace my valve cover gasket next week. I was looking around TH-cam to find instruction for my '01 Camry. This was perfect.
I'll add my thanks to you for this video. Just changed my gasket. Went well. I too, was wondering how the cover stayed on. I suspicioned it had to do with something under the spark plug covers, but had never seen this style before. I did'nt have access to a torque wrench, so I did it by feel and sight, knowing the gasket has be compressed, but not too much. I can always tighten them if I spot any leaks. So far, no leaks. I tried heating the hoses, but they were so old and brittle the edges of the ends broke. I was able to reuse them, but bought some new hosing and will replave them later, if I see a need to do so. Thanks again. This video was concise and thorough. Well done.
Great video. I replaced mine a while back, but was looking at videos again because I spotted oil leaking at the left end of the cam shaft while working on the EGR. Great ideas in your video using q-tip to apply the RTV and the hair dryer to soften the hoses. I apparently didn't put enough RTV around the bearing jacket last time out.
Same here Matt. Replaced mine two years ago and since doing so I have been getting oil seeping out the back. Finally now getting around to re-doing the job and the q-tip idea will be helpful. Were you successful the second go around?
I have the same 5S-FE engine in my (wife's) 1997 Celica, and I am responsible for doing all the wrenching on it. I'm thrilled you have so much 4th generation Camry content on here, because I'll be using your videos a lot. Cheers, and subbed! =)
Its just varnish it happens when a lot of miles accumulate its just a eye sore it doesn't hurt anything it's the black tar stuff you need be worried about
Probably not a big deal, but from what I've been able to gather, the consensus on tightening the nuts is to start at the center 2 nuts then to the ends and back. One other suggestion is to hand tighten, wait an hour then torque. Allow 1/2 a day before driving to let the RTV set. Has anyone heard of this? Also, that blow dryer idea is genius; I have a cracked vent hose at the crankshaft end after removing it cold. I don't usually have access to an electrical outlet when I work on my car (on the street). Those hoses are about $21 + tax from the nearest Toyota dealer and the ends are two different diameters.
A day or maybe several hours before removing hoses, spray them with 303 protectant or similar. New hoses, belts wiper blades soak them in 303 for several hours before installing. They will last much longer.
Thought about that too and its correct but I dont think its super super important (although certainly no reason not to) to do inside out when its no real heavy torque, you do certainly want to do that though if you're doing say the cylinder head. But typically you always want to loosen outside in and tighten inside out.
Sweet i was looking how to do this on my 97 i did it on my uncles 94 corolla with the 1.8 little different i didnt take my plug wires off but that makes sense why i was like there is nothing holding this down lol thanks
I replaced gasket continued to leak. Torqued it tight and still leaked. Ive concluded rhe cover is slighky warped. I will remove again and use gasket sealer. Over rubber gasket . Do different brand gaskets do a better job than others? Could it be i used bad quality one ?
just bought a high mileage (289K) cheapo first car for boy. Idles great but has a tick when it gets warm. Ever hear of a valve adjustment on these or is the tick bottom end? Kinda dread a rod bearing change due to exhaust and counterbalance cassette.
I have no leaks on the valve cover itself but I had a misfire and went to change the plugs and there was oil in the plug holes. Do you think I can get away with just replacing the plug hole gaskets since I don’t have any leaks on the valve cover itself just to keep oil out of the spark plug holes?
Great info. Like the others on here im about to change mine. One question. I've heard people put high tack permatex on the valve cover, put the gasket on and let it dry before they put it on. Heard it adds extra protection from leaks. Is this true?
Hi I have the 1999 camry service manual, it it says same as Haynes on the torque for the valve cover grommets. The reason I had to find out was that I had a leak after a service, and the grommets was very loose. When I put the torque from the service manual there was no leak anymore (33 ft-lbf / 44 N-m) It was afraid it would break, cause it was pretty tight, but it has been running good for over three years now :) I also found this on a forum: Its 33 ft/lb for Gen 3 and 17 ft/lb for Gen 4. A 98 is Gen 4- 17 ft/lb.
Also, the Chilton manual recommends 33 ft-lbs. So, all three manuals agree; 33 ft-lbs. I did see the 17 ft-lb number in an answer about a 1995 (Gen.3) Camry. I will go with 33 ft-lbs; as the evidence indicates. I am curious to know how the 17 ft-lbs worked out for the video author and if you had to bump it up to 33... ? On which forum did you find that value of 17 for a gen 4 Camry?
@@cesarmorales2940 Re: a 1998 Camry LE, the difference between 17 ft pounds and 33 ft pounds is huge. The online repair forums are filled with people authoritatively kicking around vastly different numbers. I ended up torquing to 27, which felt very snug but not super-tight like 33. With a nice new rubber gasket, 33 seems crazy tight for a valve cover gasket. The important part is RE-torquing a day or two after installation and watching for drips. Make sure you're using a good torque wrench. There are a lot of inaccurate ones out there. SuperHebbe above contradicted himself by saying it's 33 and then saying it's 17.
From what I've heard, it used to be 17 ft/lbs, but it was updated to be 33 ft/lbs at some point in time. Read something like that on the Toyotanation forums, I believe. Also, according to another video from a Toyota master tech (The Car Care Nut), you don't necessarily need to re-torque the nuts after a day (or whatever period of time)...instead you should torque the four nuts in the correct sequence, inside nuts to outside nuts. Then after getting to the fourth one, start over again, torquing all four nuts in the same sequence. Do that over and over until they no longer tighten after reaching the fourth one. From what he said, by the time you get to number 4, the other 3 will have slightly lost their torque and will keep doing that a few times until they're finally all torqued equally and are holding. It's something to do with the fact that the nuts are in the center and are trying to apply force to the outer edges.
Great video and am attempting to even budge the spark plug boots which are stuck deep down in holes on my "01" Camry. Any tips as don't want to break a wire any of them down in there on the plugs? Maybe there is another video I should watch also?
Twisting them usually breaks them loose. You might also want to try some heat. A blow dryer sometimes helps with stuck rubber parts such as hoses and boots. If you do break the wires, replacements are available at reasonable cost.
I looked at it and I can't tell. The car in this video was totaled out and I don't have the manual anymore. A temperature sensor came to mind but that's just a guess.
@@TheOriginalMechanic after hours of research, I found out that it’s the oil pressure sensor, i haven’t had time to work on the car but idk where the wire is to connect it back.
I soaked it up with small rags. I have no idea how long it would stay there in liquid form but it would eventually turn into hard tarry smelly crud. lol
@@TheOriginalMechanic Also, I'm not sure if tranny fluid has ever been changed on mine. It's a 2000 LE 4 cylinder with 145k. Looks pinkish on dip stick though. Would you recommend dropping pan and changing fluid and gasket or just leaving it?
CRC Electronic Cleaner will be your best friend. It cleans away oil and grease, and is safe for most all plastics, rubbers, connectors, etc. www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-5103-Quick-Dry-Electronic-Cleaner-11-Wt-Oz/16817418 $4.97/can...less than half the price for the exact same product @ Advance Auto Parts!
In some of the gasket kits I've seen 2 half moon pieces and there's also a engine expansion plug I've read that is prone to leakage on the opposite end of the timing gears. Where do the half moons go and can the expansion plug be changed with the cover off? Thank you
yes pull that half moon off the back part of drivers side its leak prone and clean off real good and rtv around it and put it back in ,lots of videos on this....i replaced my plug with the valve cover on it was kind of an ordeal but might as well do it f u have the cover off even if its not leaking
Torque it to 17 ft pounds and then drive around for 3 or 4 hours and then re torque it again to 17 ft pounds and it should never leak after that. You have to do this because those o rings in the gasket will settle down after driving it a little bit so you need to tighten them again after they have settled down.
This is for an older model. For the 4th gen which us 97-01 it should be torqued to 33 I believe
Thanks for reminding me I replaced my valve cover about 2y ago (2021)and just re torque today😅, now i gotta go scrub an oil stain in my driveway
Ive just done this job on a 1998 2.2 Camry after watching your video. I downloaded the workshop manual pdf for €20 which had all the torques. The top bolts are 44Nm. I have driven the car for an hour and I have no oil drips. After a few months its good to go back and recheck the bolts are still tight as often they are not and need re torquing.
You paid 20 euro for public information?
Thank you for your great video. I'm getting ready to replace my valve cover gasket next week. I was looking around TH-cam to find instruction for my '01 Camry. This was perfect.
I'll add my thanks to you for this video. Just changed my gasket. Went well. I too, was wondering how the cover stayed on. I suspicioned it had to do with something under the spark plug covers, but had never seen this style before.
I did'nt have access to a torque wrench, so I did it by feel and sight, knowing the gasket has be compressed, but not too much.
I can always tighten them if I spot any leaks. So far, no leaks.
I tried heating the hoses, but they were so old and brittle the edges of the ends broke. I was able to reuse them, but bought some new hosing and will replave them later, if I see a need to do so.
Thanks again. This video was concise and thorough. Well done.
You're very welcome.
Thank you so much for this video. This is exactly what I need to replace the valve cover gasket on my 1998 Camry, 4-cyl. Take care !!
Do u recoomemd 17 or other ft pounds of tourque
Prolly should mention this works for the same year rav4 and corola
Remember to take the half moons out and re-seal. Just putting the 2 dabs of rtv on the seam won't cure a leak.
Great video. I replaced mine a while back, but was looking at videos again because I spotted oil leaking at the left end of the cam shaft while working on the EGR. Great ideas in your video using q-tip to apply the RTV and the hair dryer to soften the hoses. I apparently didn't put enough RTV around the bearing jacket last time out.
Same here Matt. Replaced mine two years ago and since doing so I have been getting oil seeping out the back. Finally now getting around to re-doing the job and the q-tip idea will be helpful. Were you successful the second go around?
I have the same 5S-FE engine in my (wife's) 1997 Celica, and I am responsible for doing all the wrenching on it. I'm thrilled you have so much 4th generation Camry content on here, because I'll be using your videos a lot. Cheers, and subbed! =)
My cam shafts are caked with burnt crud. Hope it's not a problem. Yours looks so clean in comparison.
Mine are too but car runs ok.
Its just varnish it happens when a lot of miles accumulate its just a eye sore it doesn't hurt anything it's the black tar stuff you need be worried about
You need to do more frequent oil changes and drive slower.
Awesome video man. I'm about 2 change mine on a 99 camry. This helped me out so much! Thank u
same! How did it go???
Probably not a big deal, but from what I've been able to gather, the consensus on tightening the nuts is to start at the center 2 nuts then to the ends and back.
One other suggestion is to hand tighten, wait an hour then torque. Allow 1/2 a day before driving to let the RTV set. Has anyone heard of this?
Also, that blow dryer idea is genius; I have a cracked vent hose at the crankshaft end after removing it cold. I don't usually have access to an electrical outlet when I work on my car (on the street). Those hoses are about $21 + tax from the nearest Toyota dealer and the ends are two different diameters.
Thanks for sharing the helpful ideas!
That is the correct way if you got the time in my opinion.
A day or maybe several hours before removing hoses, spray them with 303 protectant or similar. New hoses, belts wiper blades soak them in 303 for several hours before installing. They will last much longer.
Thought about that too and its correct but I dont think its super super important (although certainly no reason not to) to do inside out when its no real heavy torque, you do certainly want to do that though if you're doing say the cylinder head. But typically you always want to loosen outside in and tighten inside out.
Hahaha what?
Looks much easier than the 1mz fe. 5s fe is better imo anyway, more reliable
I changed mine today, easy job hand tighten will retighten.it later.
Did you have to let the gasket maker cure for 24 hours before running engine?
Sweet i was looking how to do this on my 97 i did it on my uncles 94 corolla with the 1.8 little different i didnt take my plug wires off but that makes sense why i was like there is nothing holding this down lol thanks
very nice job with the video very good info, now I have to tackle that job myself.
I replaced gasket continued to leak. Torqued it tight and still leaked. Ive concluded rhe cover is slighky warped. I will remove again and use gasket sealer. Over rubber gasket .
Do different brand gaskets do a better job than others? Could it be i used bad quality one ?
nice music at the end
I've this issue today. Do you need to put gasket maker on the half moon thing? How do you clean the outer oil spill with? Thanks.
Thank you, this helped me!
just bought a high mileage (289K) cheapo first car for boy. Idles great but has a tick when it gets warm. Ever hear of a valve adjustment on these or is the tick bottom end? Kinda dread a rod bearing change due to exhaust and counterbalance cassette.
I have no leaks on the valve cover itself but I had a misfire and went to change the plugs and there was oil in the plug holes. Do you think I can get away with just replacing the plug hole gaskets since I don’t have any leaks on the valve cover itself just to keep oil out of the spark plug holes?
That would be worth a try.
Cool video, thank you for info
Great info. Like the others on here im about to change mine. One question. I've heard people put high tack permatex on the valve cover, put the gasket on and let it dry before they put it on. Heard it adds extra protection from leaks. Is this true?
Seems like it might add to the sealing. The only negative would be cleaning off the old sealant when changing it again.
do you have to drain oil before you begin
No, you don't.
Thank you. Helpful video.
Thanks for posting!
Dry good videos, my Camry had a nasty oil drip into the spark plugs bay, was that worn out seals ?
Yes!
Thank you very much
thank you very much very good video.
Hi I have the 1999 camry service manual, it it says same as Haynes on the torque for the valve cover grommets.
The reason I had to find out was that I had a leak after a service, and the grommets was very loose.
When I put the torque from the service manual there was no leak anymore (33 ft-lbf / 44 N-m)
It was afraid it would break, cause it was pretty tight, but it has been running good for over three years now :)
I also found this on a forum:
Its 33 ft/lb for Gen 3 and 17 ft/lb for Gen 4. A 98 is Gen 4- 17 ft/lb.
Also, the Chilton manual recommends 33 ft-lbs. So, all three manuals agree; 33 ft-lbs. I did see the 17 ft-lb number in an answer about a 1995 (Gen.3) Camry. I will go with 33 ft-lbs; as the evidence indicates. I am curious to know how the 17 ft-lbs worked out for the video author and if you had to bump it up to 33... ?
On which forum did you find that value of 17 for a gen 4 Camry?
I believe u have it backwards Jan it should be 33 ft lbs for the 4th gen (97-01)
@@cesarmorales2940 Re: a 1998 Camry LE, the difference between 17 ft pounds and 33 ft pounds is huge. The online repair forums are filled with people authoritatively kicking around vastly different numbers. I ended up torquing to 27, which felt very snug but not super-tight like 33. With a nice new rubber gasket, 33 seems crazy tight for a valve cover gasket. The important part is RE-torquing a day or two after installation and watching for drips. Make sure you're using a good torque wrench. There are a lot of inaccurate ones out there. SuperHebbe above contradicted himself by saying it's 33 and then saying it's 17.
From what I've heard, it used to be 17 ft/lbs, but it was updated to be 33 ft/lbs at some point in time. Read something like that on the Toyotanation forums, I believe. Also, according to another video from a Toyota master tech (The Car Care Nut), you don't necessarily need to re-torque the nuts after a day (or whatever period of time)...instead you should torque the four nuts in the correct sequence, inside nuts to outside nuts. Then after getting to the fourth one, start over again, torquing all four nuts in the same sequence. Do that over and over until they no longer tighten after reaching the fourth one. From what he said, by the time you get to number 4, the other 3 will have slightly lost their torque and will keep doing that a few times until they're finally all torqued equally and are holding. It's something to do with the fact that the nuts are in the center and are trying to apply force to the outer edges.
Thank you, help me a lot
Great video and am attempting to even budge the spark plug boots which are stuck deep down in holes on my "01" Camry. Any tips as don't want to break a wire any of them down in there on the plugs? Maybe there is another video I should watch also?
Twisting them usually breaks them loose. You might also want to try some heat. A blow dryer sometimes helps with stuck rubber parts such as hoses and boots. If you do break the wires, replacements are available at reasonable cost.
Just pull the fuckin thing out
@@clayton9136 Already did! lol
What type of rtv are you using?
Rtv
Hey thanks. This was very helpful.
Good job there, totally. I would have just clean the pcv valve with carb cleaner. But the job you did is very good. Keep with the good work
Hi, cuestión., for a 99 camry 4 cylinders is 17 the torque?, because some people are saying 30 something, thank you.
I found 17 ft lbs. I've heard the larger torque mentioned too. Seems excessive for a valve cover.
@@TheOriginalMechanic thank you, I’l apply 17 torque.
Pregunta se tiene q sacar el oil
@0:43 seconds what’s the name of the sensor connected to the engine block? In my Camry it’s on but the wire is not connected any idea? Thanks
I looked at it and I can't tell. The car in this video was totaled out and I don't have the manual anymore. A temperature sensor came to mind but that's just a guess.
@@TheOriginalMechanic after hours of research, I found out that it’s the oil pressure sensor, i haven’t had time to work on the car but idk where the wire is to connect it back.
@@ultra-1320 lol
Do you have drain your motor oil before disassemble?
No, not necessary.
Thank you. What brand Spark Plug wires did you use?
They look like NGK wires
Thank you 🤟🏻
You don't need to take out the spark plugs?
No you don't.
What kinde of oil you have in engine ?
I used Quaker State high miles 5W30
How long will the old oil that pooled stay on there after repair? Did you clean it off? What did you use to get down in there?
I soaked it up with small rags. I have no idea how long it would stay there in liquid form but it would eventually turn into hard tarry smelly crud. lol
Got ya! Yeah, it's a tough area to reach. I just did the job yesterday and as far as I can see, no leaks but I just want to make sure.
@@TheOriginalMechanic Also, I'm not sure if tranny fluid has ever been changed on mine. It's a 2000 LE 4 cylinder with 145k. Looks pinkish on dip stick though. Would you recommend dropping pan and changing fluid and gasket or just leaving it?
CRC Electronic Cleaner will be your best friend. It cleans away oil and grease, and is safe for most all plastics, rubbers, connectors, etc.
www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-5103-Quick-Dry-Electronic-Cleaner-11-Wt-Oz/16817418
$4.97/can...less than half the price for the exact same product @ Advance Auto Parts!
@@mavx318 if you haven't found it yet there's an actual drain plug on mine and it was super easy to change the tranny fluid
Is the torque specs 17lbs or 33lbs?
17
@@TheOriginalMechanic From what I've read, that number was updated to 33 at some point.
Do you need to drain the oil first?
No you don't
No, not for that gasket.
The Original Mechanic Thanks for the reply. 👍
I was wondering the same as i am trying to learn to do this myself.
Great video.... thanks brother.
Sir , is it not necessary to apply gaskit maker (RTV) all aound the surface ? bec.u applied on certain areas only
The sealant is only needed at those areas as these are prone to leaking.
@@TheOriginalMechanic ,hmmm , I see....Thank you
How much would this cost at a mechanic?
I don't know. Shouldn't be that expensive but then they surprise me.
i called some shops near me (north jersey) they ranged from $125-$250 for this job
@@ImTheBoss914 I live in Pennsylvania so honestly it probably wouldn't be much different
nice
In some of the gasket kits I've seen 2 half moon pieces and there's also a engine expansion plug I've read that is prone to leakage on the opposite end of the timing gears. Where do the half moons go and can the expansion plug be changed with the cover off? Thank you
yes pull that half moon off the back part of drivers side its leak prone and clean off real good and rtv around it and put it back in ,lots of videos on this....i replaced my plug with the valve cover on it was kind of an ordeal but might as well do it f u have the cover off even if its not leaking
I'm paranoid about gasket leaks. I would even hand tighten center out.
Not really paranoia. I call it attention to detail that is necessary to do the job right the first time. Good job.
Did you say velcro instead of felpro? 😂😂😂
32.453ft lbs
Everyone Do Not do this without the driverside round plug resealed or your waisting time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pretty sure I heard velcro😂😂
Everyone Do Not do this without the driverside round plug resealed or your waisting time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Everyone Do Not do this without the driverside round plug resealed or your waisting time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Everyone Do Not do this without the driverside round plug resealed or your waisting time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!