When I first saw your prunings videos, "I" almost choked in pruning trauma. But the logic of doing 4 season pruning, ... and then also doing spring fruit thinning (and pruning) makes absolute sense, both for the tree, but also for production. Now I am sending others to your vids here, so that they can also gain this great information. More juicy and sweet taste, less and larger fruit, greater volume, greater production ... less broken limbs, less fallen fruit (fruit castings), less pits to handle !
Tom, thank you, I wished that I did the "tuff love" of pruning 10 years ago, but I love some of my trees to death, too much fruit and broken branches .... After the drought, I am starting all over and I will follow your advice..
Another great video! Thank you for educating all of us and providing a safe GMO- free product that I feel safe feeding to my family. PS- Still hoping you can do a fig video this fall... there are so many great varieties that need to be shared with the public!
Hi. I am from Afghanistan. I have just watched your video and I think the method you present to cultivate and produce fruit in unique. I have planted almost 100 different types of fruit trees in 1100 sq meter in my backyard one week ago and used your techniques soon after planting the saplings. I will continue watching your videos and hope to get the most out of them. Kindly provide us some videos regarding proper irrigation and fertilization of fruit trees. Thank you.
Excellent video! I wholeheartedly agree with the importance of thinning the amount of fruit and your explained techniques in doing so. I look forward to future videos!
Very helpful. It helps to know it isn't mean to thin. Thank you for the water and mulch comments. We mulch and it matters so much. This drought is so terrible, and we have to each do our best. We were recently told that mulching wasn't worth it because you had to do it every year. So? That persons garden was terrible. If you can't be bothered to mulch every year (we do it as needed) why have a garden?
Hi Dave, i love the vids! I need you advice, I planted two apples in close proximity, they both have no main leader but instead three long skinny branches each. How do I create a leader, and how do I prune with them near each other?
+Alex Coningham If you want an upright single leader form choose the most dominant,straightest upright for your leader and remove the remaining two. I would much prefer low and bushy for my use.
Going to start thinning next week (Cox apple tree) or so. Still have some blooms, but i have a colder climate. This year i have really to mutch apples, if i leave them on. The tree will collapse under it's own weight. Nice video's with a good quality.
Patrick C. We use only bio-diverse mulch. You want a blend of as many types of wood product as possible. Best biodiversity can be achieved by using recycled green waste.
When thinning, how do you account for the fact that some of the fruit you leave will have problems - disease, insect, other damage? My inclination - not sure if it right - is to do at lease 2 thinnings and leave extras at the first thinning. Is this acceptable practice? Also, can saw dust be used as mulch or part of a mulch mix? Thanks, and good luck with the weather!
Vincent Esposito Thinning is all up to the interpretation of the thinner. There is no wrong way to thin except thinning to late. Use the method that works best and is most convenient for you. Sawdust can be used up to 15% final volume in any mulch. Even a larger percentage if you manage properly.
I have a question for you. Suppose, I cut a branch from an producing citrus tree such as a satsuma , and I get the branch to produce roots. Will I have to graph the branch to produce fruit like the parent tree? Thanks for you time.
carbon Tate If you can root it, it will be true to type. However, one of the reasons we graft citrus is most of the weak growing varieties like Satsuma do not produce a strong, stable and anchoring root system on their own. The root system is the life system for the tree to thrive on. A weak root system can grow for a few years and when the tree sets fruit and becomes heavy it will usually just break off and fall over.
When I first saw your prunings videos, "I" almost choked in pruning trauma. But the logic of doing 4 season pruning, ... and then also doing spring fruit thinning (and pruning) makes absolute sense, both for the tree, but also for production.
Now I am sending others to your vids here, so that they can also gain this great information. More juicy and sweet taste, less and larger fruit, greater volume, greater production ... less broken limbs, less fallen fruit (fruit castings), less pits to handle !
Great video from start to finish! I have over 30 fruit trees from Dave Wilson Nursery in my backyard and they are all doing great!
Tom, thank you, I wished that I did the "tuff love" of pruning 10 years ago, but I love some of my trees to death, too much fruit and broken branches ....
After the drought, I am starting all over and I will follow your advice..
Another great video! Thank you for educating all of us and providing a safe GMO- free product that I feel safe feeding to my family.
PS- Still hoping you can do a fig video this fall... there are so many great varieties that need to be shared with the public!
Thanks for the great upload Tom! Let us know when you can provide a 2015 pomegranate video. That would be great!
Hi. I am from Afghanistan. I have just watched your video and I think the method you present to cultivate and produce fruit in unique. I have planted almost 100 different types of fruit trees in 1100 sq meter in my backyard one week ago and used your techniques soon after planting the saplings. I will continue watching your videos and hope to get the most out of them. Kindly provide us some videos regarding proper irrigation and fertilization of fruit trees. Thank you.
Excellent video! I wholeheartedly agree with the importance of thinning the amount of fruit and your explained techniques in doing so. I look forward to future videos!
Great video Dave. Thank you.
Very helpful. It helps to know it isn't mean to thin. Thank you for the water and mulch comments. We mulch and it matters so much. This drought is so terrible, and we have to each do our best. We were recently told that mulching wasn't worth it because you had to do it every year. So? That persons garden was terrible. If you can't be bothered to mulch every year (we do it as needed) why have a garden?
Hi Dave, i love the vids! I need you advice, I planted two apples in close proximity, they both have no main leader but instead three long skinny branches each. How do I create a leader, and how do I prune with them near each other?
+Alex Coningham If you want an upright single leader form choose the most dominant,straightest upright for your leader and remove the remaining two. I would much prefer low and bushy for my use.
Going to start thinning next week (Cox apple tree) or so. Still have some blooms, but i have a colder climate. This year i have really to mutch apples, if i leave them on. The tree will collapse under it's own weight. Nice video's with a good quality.
Hello,
What wood type of mulch do you use on your orchard? Does the tree variety (i.e. pine or cedar) matter? Great video by the way! Thank you
Patrick C. We use only bio-diverse mulch. You want a blend of as many types of wood product as possible. Best biodiversity can be achieved by using recycled green waste.
Such a wealth of knowledge. This channel deserves 10 times the views it gets.
When thinning, how do you account for the fact that some of the fruit you leave will have problems - disease, insect, other damage? My inclination - not sure if it right - is to do at lease 2 thinnings and leave extras at the first thinning. Is this acceptable practice? Also, can saw dust be used as mulch or part of a mulch mix? Thanks, and good luck with the weather!
Vincent Esposito Thinning is all up to the interpretation of the thinner. There is no wrong way to thin except thinning to late. Use the method that works best and is most convenient for you. Sawdust can be used up to 15% final volume in any mulch. Even a larger percentage if you manage properly.
Great tips
I have a question for you. Suppose, I cut a branch from an producing citrus tree such as a satsuma , and I get the branch to produce roots. Will I have to graph the branch to produce fruit like the parent tree? Thanks for you time.
carbon Tate If you get it to root, you shouldn't have to graph it.
carbon Tate If you can root it, it will be true to type. However, one of the reasons we graft citrus is most of the weak growing varieties like Satsuma do not produce a strong, stable and anchoring root system on their own. The root system is the life system for the tree to thrive on. A weak root system can grow for a few years and when the tree sets fruit and becomes heavy it will usually just break off and fall over.
Where are the raised bed cherries?
Do you let people pay and pick fruit at your orchard
viralmonkeymarket101 No, sorry we don't.
Dave Wilson Nursery ok, I like the videos.