Good video - this will help lots of people. When I installed mine, I was searching everywhere for videos. I ended up installing mine right behind the seat - my reasoning was because it put less weight on it when I lifted the front (not sure if that's valid or not, just what I did). I also put on extra backer plates on the inside and outside, just to help spread the weight. I used a cheap black cutting board from Walmart. I used some lightweight cardboard and pressed it up on the inside of the hull to help form my shape. The shape was different on both sides and different than the outside - it just ended up being whatever would fit up in there. So far so good for me!
DIY Vids, and information and making, all of our setups our own is important. I have a 120 pdl, and the recess grooves, with the pre-threaded holes, are usually setup for some set of landing gear, due to the weight of the hull and setup. A little re-enforcement never hurts. Great vid... 🎣 🙏
Well, I got Boonedox installed on the back end, on the tracks by a local Kayak sales and rental place. Said they could not mount where I wanted.... This coming Thursday will be the first time I get to try them. I'm hoping for the best... I've got lung issues so I can only exert for a short time .... we'll see. Oh and thanks for your vids... they are invaluable. IF what the store insisted on doing doesn't work then I will remove and move it forward. Get different hardware with the threaded plates. and muve it up about a foot towards the front of the boat. Will help with the total weight I'm having to lift when rolling the kayak forward on the wheels.
Yep, seems worth it to me too. I'm 74 hauling my 150 LB OldTown 120 AutoPilot in and out With emphesma it's a chore. Ordering mine today. Think i can do my 120 Auto without the back hatch addition. There's a hatch for accessing behind the seat,,, may work, others say it does. Thanks this is a big help and I ordered my BooneDox
They have been worth it to me. It still gets a little iffy going over rough ground but I haven't had them fail yet. I'd suggest putting them as close to behind the seat as you can. The farther back they are the more of a wheelbarrow effect you get.
@ Kyle Long Fishing... Well I ordered and never heard from the store again. Just got a phone call night before last... honest... saying they just found the note. lol So I am again waiting for the Boondox to arrive. Just thought it funny. Since then, a lot has changed but I need it even more. Installing very close to the Rudder raiser and lower lever. We'll see. IF the get it in then I'm paying them to install it. I'm putting the Boondocks bar under the seat, behind the battery. and before the back end of the Kayak. That should center the weight good for pulling.
Nice video yakbro 👍 👊I am getting my OY whenever Keegan gets em in. I might be holler in at ya. Whenever you need a extra set of hands just holler at me...I am right down the road from ya 😉
Hey Kyle, it's been about a year since you did this. May want to give a brief update on how it's doing... maybe not. Anyway thanks for the vid. I think it's the best available to Boonedock an OldTown. Thsnks again.
You realize Harborfreight has a plastic welder for $20 if you use a heat gun it will work also and be about as strong as new i actually save my pieces when I install a hatch for repair materials
Just FYI - this boat, and most kayaks are made from HDPE and the epoxy used in this video will not bond to it. The only real repair for this is to weld it. Hopefully you told the person you sold it to.
According to a retailer, I haven’t spoken with Old Town directly, but the warranty should still be good unless what you are trying to get a warranty on is a direct result of where you drilled the holes. Like if you have boonedox and it starts leaking at a scupper hole or the bow then you’ll still be covered. If boonedox voided the warranty then so should mounting lights with screws or gear tracks with screws, holes for graph wires, or any other hull penetration.
@@billyyang496 well you might check with old town to make 100% sure but I plan on selling mine and the warranty doesn’t travel with the boat so simply by buying and selling used boats the warranty is a moot point.
@@billyyang496 also, you know that area where you can cut in a hatch in the back? I can’t imagine that would void any warranty and that’s not much different than what I did.
Good video - this will help lots of people. When I installed mine, I was searching everywhere for videos. I ended up installing mine right behind the seat - my reasoning was because it put less weight on it when I lifted the front (not sure if that's valid or not, just what I did). I also put on extra backer plates on the inside and outside, just to help spread the weight. I used a cheap black cutting board from Walmart. I used some lightweight cardboard and pressed it up on the inside of the hull to help form my shape. The shape was different on both sides and different than the outside - it just ended up being whatever would fit up in there. So far so good for me!
DIY Vids, and information and making, all of our setups our own is important. I have a 120 pdl, and the recess grooves, with the pre-threaded holes, are usually setup for some set of landing gear, due to the weight of the hull and setup. A little re-enforcement never hurts. Great vid... 🎣 🙏
Well, I got Boonedox installed on the back end, on the tracks by a local Kayak sales and rental place. Said they could not mount where I wanted.... This coming Thursday will be the first time I get to try them. I'm hoping for the best... I've got lung issues so I can only exert for a short time .... we'll see. Oh and thanks for your vids... they are invaluable. IF what the store insisted on doing doesn't work then I will remove and move it forward. Get different hardware with the threaded plates. and muve it up about a foot towards the front of the boat. Will help with the total weight I'm having to lift when rolling the kayak forward on the wheels.
Boonedox have been a life saver for me. I haven't decided yet for the Hobie whether I want to install them. So far I haven't needed them.
Yep, seems worth it to me too. I'm 74 hauling my 150 LB OldTown 120 AutoPilot in and out With emphesma it's a chore. Ordering mine today. Think i can do my 120 Auto without the back hatch addition. There's a hatch for accessing behind the seat,,, may work, others say it does. Thanks this is a big help and I ordered my BooneDox
They have been worth it to me. It still gets a little iffy going over rough ground but I haven't had them fail yet. I'd suggest putting them as close to behind the seat as you can. The farther back they are the more of a wheelbarrow effect you get.
@ Kyle Long Fishing... Well I ordered and never heard from the store again. Just got a phone call night before last... honest... saying they just found the note. lol So I am again waiting for the Boondox to arrive. Just thought it funny. Since then, a lot has changed but I need it even more. Installing very close to the Rudder raiser and lower lever. We'll see. IF the get it in then I'm paying them to install it. I'm putting the Boondocks bar under the seat, behind the battery. and before the back end of the Kayak. That should center the weight good for pulling.
Good luck with the install!
Nice video yakbro 👍 👊I am getting my OY whenever Keegan gets em in. I might be holler in at ya.
Whenever you need a extra set of hands just holler at me...I am right down the road from ya 😉
Hey Kyle, it's been about a year since you did this. May want to give a brief update on how it's doing... maybe not. Anyway thanks for the vid. I think it's the best available to Boonedock an OldTown. Thsnks again.
I actually don't even have this boat anymore.
You realize Harborfreight has a plastic welder for $20 if you use a heat gun it will work also and be about as strong as new i actually save my pieces when I install a hatch for repair materials
I didn’t know that. I don’t have that boat anymore but thanks, that’s good advice.
Just FYI - this boat, and most kayaks are made from HDPE and the epoxy used in this video will not bond to it. The only real repair for this is to weld it. Hopefully you told the person you sold it to.
what old town model is this ? thx!
That’s a 2017 Old Town Predator PDL. It’s not called that anymore. Now it’s called the Big Water PDL but same thing.
Will drilling into the hull void warranty?
That’s a great question because I don’t have a warranty since I bought it used. Let me find out.
According to a retailer, I haven’t spoken with Old Town directly, but the warranty should still be good unless what you are trying to get a warranty on is a direct result of where you drilled the holes. Like if you have boonedox and it starts leaking at a scupper hole or the bow then you’ll still be covered. If boonedox voided the warranty then so should mounting lights with screws or gear tracks with screws, holes for graph wires, or any other hull penetration.
If that’s the case then that makes me feel better about drilling into the hull. Thanks for the info!
@@billyyang496 well you might check with old town to make 100% sure but I plan on selling mine and the warranty doesn’t travel with the boat so simply by buying and selling used boats the warranty is a moot point.
@@billyyang496 also, you know that area where you can cut in a hatch in the back? I can’t imagine that would void any warranty and that’s not much different than what I did.