I ran into a problem with a sub-woofer, still bugs me today... Went out on a service call and sure enough a room full of beautiful music and the sub is dead silent. Oh-oh ... So I popped the plate off the back and did some checks... seemed okay. But when I pulled the RCAs off I got a huge room shaking blast of 60hz. After some considerable head scratching it turned out that my client's favourite kind of music had almost no content below 100hz. The subs were working, they just had nothing to do. Put on a couple of selections with good deep bass and away they went. That was a nice waste of 90 minutes that I couldn't bill the customer for.
It's interesting how the BASH amps all seem to have the same layout regardless of what the manufacturer is. Last few I remember: Energy, Mirage, Klipsch, Atlantic Technology. I almost wonder if the boards are interchangeable. I've repaired several and the problem was always bad capacitors and/or the glue that turns brown with time & heat. On all BASH amps, I'll replace the capacitors if they are >10 years old and also inspect for the discolored glue problem. I'll patiently scrape the glue off to replace with hot glue instead. I would go as far to say that for any electronics that get hot (subs, amps, power supplies) it's generally a good idea to take them apart if they are >10 years old to inspect for bulging capacitors and the brown glue.
Hi Dave, Andy from the UK here, never been a keen fan of class D amps, especially any amp built into a speaker case, always like things separate, I have a Dynacord powerate 1000 mark 2 powered mixer designed for bands for clubs and stage etc, at 700rms per channel great power when needed and it sounds so warm and clear in my living room at normal levels for a house, dons't evern light up on the first led on the meter, its class AB with ouput stage with 10 power transistors 5 NPN and 5PNP on each channel with 2 fans and a hefty toriodal transformer, I know not as efficient as switch mode PSU, but has class H circitiry which alters the voltage rail depending on demand, they now have a mark 3 version which is class D boosting 1000rms per chan, i dont doubt it with Dynacord but they are now made in China, the mk1 and mk2 where made in Germany, but Dynacord, EV Audio are all part of the Bocsh company, not vestal proper Bosch, sorry to waffel on, i'm a electronic engineer and also an audiophile, love music when it sounds right, also love vintage amps stereo reicevers etc from the late 70's early 80's, I'm going on a bit , thanks Dave love your vids, keeping them comming, always look forward to your videos
These Bash plates are a pain. I have one now from an expensive Dynaudio sub. There are some schematics available but nothing exact. They are overly complex. It’s a class g bridge amp. I have the 80 volt b+ voltage but they modulate the negative rail to save power! This is controlled through the Bash pwm board. Very close to quitting!
Check out Q5 between the 2 caps. It looks to be on the power supply side of that small daughter board. Looks like it sharted! (look about 7:20-7:26 or so) Also, not an exact schematic and SM, but there is one available for the Klipsch-Rw-12 on manualslib. Has a decent component breakdown for that model, amp operation theory, and schematics. I suspect the 2 MAY be similar, so it can point you in the right direction. I've never actually looked into Bash amps, so this is a learning experience for me too :D
Gotta admit, you might be onto something with Q5, that small sot-23 Transistor looks to have gotten hot at the very least as the orange snot has turned brown in its vicinity...
That's why I went looking for a schematic of a similar product. At least it can explain some of the theory of what it's doing. I'ma laugh it Q5 is the problem lmao. I could never get that lucky on my own repairs lol.@@Elektrotechniker
Well you've helped me - if you can't get this going, I have no hope on mine. That Klipsch sub I picked up a while back and couldn't fix either is heading to the great landfill in the sky. I couldn't even get the power supply going on mine. Time to move on.
you are right and why the good stuff aint made anymore .... I got a 19 inch rack full and will never get rid of that nothing comes close to the sound of a good stereo from the good old days
I fixed few of those, Turn ON but No Sound fault. Those capacitor close to those +/- 15 V regulator, change all of them. Think theres 5 of them. When the big cap goes bad, there's i think a 10 ohm close to the transformer sometime they open circuit. Common issue.
Last time I tried to work on a bash amp, I wasn't able to get to anything on the circuit board because it had been potted with this black goo/glue material that I couldn't remove without destroying the whole thing!!
I read Phillips screws were designed to cam out to prevent the user from stripping them funny how that cam out strips the screw. JIS screws when used with a JIS driver don't cam out but will cam out worse than a Phillips screw if you use a Phillips driver on them. If the screws aren't super tight you can get by with a Phillips if you push down hard but if they are very tight, thread locked, or some bonehead rounded them off before you good luck. I had to remove a tape head it had super tiny JIS fasteners with red thread locker on them the JIS bit gripped the head with no slop and practically no downward pressure. I could feel the head of the screw twisting then there was a snap and it came loose. I was sure I was going to snap the head off before it broke loose a Phillips definitely would have cammed out and chewed up the head before I ever broke it loose.
Hello, I was wondering if you still repair VCRs. I do have a Sony SLVR1000. It did have a broken blue gear. I did replace that, but when I put the whole thing back together, now all it does is that the head drum spins at high speed. No function appears to be working. HELP. If you still do repair, please send me info as to how I can this thing shipped to you, for you to look at it and give me an estimate. I will appreciated. Thanks
This particular VCR, (Sony SLV-R1000) is a great machine. This model, incredibly, is 34 years now. I have own it for the last 10 years-since I bought used around that time. I need to bring it back to life. I have not used it for the last three or four years, so it needs some TLC. @@12voltvids
That splooged cap was screaming at me the moment I saw it. I've replaced thousands and thousands of splooged caps over the years from the capacitor plague era, they all look like that or worse. Least they're not shitty 80s-2000s SMD electrolytics that piss corrosive and conductive electrolyte all over the board and short everything out.
I wouldn't say the boards are made in Canada. To specify the country of origin it has to say "Made in" but here it doesn't, just says "Canada". That's not a marking that would hold up in court (if someone ever sued anyone for falsely specifying the country of origin) or in a consumer protection agency investigation (whatever name it has in Canada). Judging by the low quality components and yellow glue I'd bet it's made in China. BTW when you measure I wouldn't assume the case of the cap is connected to the negative lead. Usually it's floating, sometimes there is sime leakage to either positive or negative or some to both. So that 90V might have been a bogus reading.
It has the name of the company indigo printed next to it. I have seen other brands of powered subs with the same board that the speaker said made in Canada on it. Our modems at work are all stamped designed in Canada because they were devoloped here, in house but they are assembled in Vietnam. The board could have been made here, if it was made in China it would typically say China on the board. This one says indigo Canada. They are in Markham Ontario.
@@12voltvids Originally BASH technology and amps were designed and manufactured in Canada as Indigo. but mfg switched to China 10-15 years ago when was bought out by Chinese company Sonavox. The design team in Canada is still active but now is purely RD, and its now also owned by a Taiwanese multinational called Merry Electronics. These boards were almost certainly made in China, which is where the unit final assembly was completed.
Here is a random question for you. I thought of it because you said the subwoofer was made in canada. And it reminded me of this old beta cassette that I have of the film white christmas. And on the front of the cassette box it has a sticker that says recorded in canada. What would be the reason they would put a sticker like that on a betamax cassette tape would it matter where it was recorded?
Duplication facility wanted everyone to know where they were. Cinram did the same with their CD and DVD pressings. Stamped right into the disk in the center
@@12voltvids ohh well 🤷 it didn't matter anyway it's fubar im having my own problems with my teac x2000r..by the way im one of the people that has a massave stereo system
@12voltvids hi I need to know how can i replace the little battery inside my cam SONY DIGITAL 8 DCR-TRV 238 E please .. IDONT USED IT SINCE 2013 and now it doesn't work correctly ibosh the reset bottom many times and there is nothing..
I am in the ultra minority. I have a Harmon/Kardon 6000 watt PA for a stereo lol. I have the JBL PRX 818 ELFW subs with the JBL PRX 835s on top. DBX Speaker controller (Driverack PA2) and DBX 31 band 2 channel EQ, a BBE Sound Maximizer and the head is a Headliner R2 professional mixer. It rocks man lol.
Yes same thing with band instruments. Certain model Bach student trumpets are made in China. If they run low on brass the brass is shipped to China, the instrument produced and sent to the US. These things should be built in the US or whatever country designs. Done to be cheap. And US brass is better than cheap Chinese brass. I know, work on these instruments everyday.
I worked for Sony back in the 70's when they did use that glue. We were constantly getting mysterious failures of the gate controlled switches in the Sony power supplies and horizontal circuits of the Trinitrons. Nobody could figure it out until a tech representative started observing that the glue was becoming conductive. So, yeah, Sony did have the issue, but learned about it very early on.
There's nothing wrong with Class-D in a subwoofer IMHO. I am all for Class-D for subwoofer or low-mid woofers and then class AB for the high frequency stuff.
There's nothing wrong with Class D period, these days. Hypex and Purifi both make excellent sounding amplifier modules that were both designed by Bruno Putzeys, considered the "Class D Guru" . I own Pass Class A amps, and have compared those with the top of the line Hypex modules. To be honest, it's a tossup as far as sound quality goes, and the Class D's are about a fifth the size.
Not for me.... I still have a high end TAPE player in my car and I won't hear of any of this carp about digital is better. If you buy rubbish you get rubbish.
My feeling on the plate amps, class D and such is, even if you have a scat they are not worth repairing for profit. As a hobby, consider it a puzzle. When those class D amps fail they take out several components, some that are not cheap. Components that survive have a death wish on the next power up. I tell the guys to find a new plate amp from Parts Express and replace it. Done deal.
TH-cam: again deleted my neutral comment.....here we go again: on KLIPSCH community blog, there is how to repair same SUB with some schematics....tannoy ts 10 or synergy sub-10 look same to me....and there is schematic for tannoy available on the net....and Video on youtube for how to repair synergy sub-10 (as well as how to switch it from 110v to 220V)...
@@12voltvids UX design these days is extremely crappy. Just like asking for user name, then requiring to flip to the next page to enter the password, instead of showing you that you cannot post links when you try to hit the button, it just pretends all is good just to delete your comment later and then after several attempts to post the same comment shadow ban you. The internet is absolutely rotten these days. Screw those big corpos.
Afaik the boards were made in Canada, shipped to China for cheap assembly and shipped back. As far as nebula, that's the name of the company that makes the fiber optic cards he just has the boards etched and bonded over in China. Same company that makes all the pcb for apple. It's their scale of operations that makes them much cheaper than doing it here and they can't really reverse engineer his boards as he uses off the shelf parts so the board would be pretty generic. The chips are all placed and soldered in Canada and they are programmed and burned in here. Actually about 1 block from my house as he works from home and has his design lab in his house. Shipping dept is in his garage and he has a small staff working there.
I guess profit margin is slim. Most of these boards were for Canadian military communications so he is bidding against others. An extra 12.00 per board might have made the difference between getting the contract or not getting it.
Apparently you pay zero attention to what's selling right now. The sale of full size systems have been up for a few years now. It's not that people don't want subwoofers because they do sell, what they don't want is old subwoofers. Subs tend to take a lot of abuse making them rather unattractive in the used market. As for subs that came with a cheap package such as Onkyo put together they are worthless on the second hand market because they didn't sound good new.
The reason so many systems are on the market is because many are dumping them. I have a old Onkyo (before the dsp failure issues) and it sounds great. I had a movie playing and was being yelled at to turn it down during the action scenes with explosions and gunshots. My acient sub actually got a workout but then I have a proper home theatre.
Klipsch using hot snot, go figure, Paul W Klipsch is rolling over in his grave. 1st when he passed away they doubled all the prices of thwir heritage speakers.
Class D amplifiers are already bad enough. If Klipsch stuffs them with Chinese parts like XC capacitors, then it shouldn't be called a quality brand. I'd rather buy a second hand Class A/B amplifier that still has Rubycon or Nichicon caps and other quality components inside than this high-noise switching rubbish .
Another uninformed that has never heard a good sounding amp. The best most transparent sound amp I have personally listened to is that vtv purify amplifier which is a class D. I listened to recordings that i thought i knew how they sounded as i have listened to hundreds of times and there it was, a sound I thought all along was a synthesizer turned out to be an electric violin. Instruments hidden in the mix jumped out. Same CD player, same speakers just the amp was changed our from a sansui.
I'm an expert however there is no money in this. Was given to to me and it's worth about 50 bucks on the used market. So I am not about to spend much to fix it.
I ran into a problem with a sub-woofer, still bugs me today... Went out on a service call and sure enough a room full of beautiful music and the sub is dead silent. Oh-oh ... So I popped the plate off the back and did some checks... seemed okay. But when I pulled the RCAs off I got a huge room shaking blast of 60hz. After some considerable head scratching it turned out that my client's favourite kind of music had almost no content below 100hz. The subs were working, they just had nothing to do.
Put on a couple of selections with good deep bass and away they went.
That was a nice waste of 90 minutes that I couldn't bill the customer for.
It's interesting how the BASH amps all seem to have the same layout regardless of what the manufacturer is. Last few I remember: Energy, Mirage, Klipsch, Atlantic Technology. I almost wonder if the boards are interchangeable. I've repaired several and the problem was always bad capacitors and/or the glue that turns brown with time & heat. On all BASH amps, I'll replace the capacitors if they are >10 years old and also inspect for the discolored glue problem. I'll patiently scrape the glue off to replace with hot glue instead. I would go as far to say that for any electronics that get hot (subs, amps, power supplies) it's generally a good idea to take them apart if they are >10 years old to inspect for bulging capacitors and the brown glue.
Love Bash they sound awesome ,but yes when they work I’ve gotten lucky with a few them still working
Even with a schematic it’s still tough. I think your small vertical board is the pwm controller that modulates the negative rail.
Hi Dave, Andy from the UK here, never been a keen fan of class D amps, especially any amp built into a speaker case, always like things separate, I have a Dynacord powerate 1000 mark 2 powered mixer designed for bands for clubs and stage etc, at 700rms per channel great power when needed and it sounds so warm and clear in my living room at normal levels for a house, dons't evern light up on the first led on the meter, its class AB with ouput stage with 10 power transistors 5 NPN and 5PNP on each channel with 2 fans and a hefty toriodal transformer, I know not as efficient as switch mode PSU, but has class H circitiry which alters the voltage rail depending on demand, they now have a mark 3 version which is class D boosting 1000rms per chan, i dont doubt it with Dynacord but they are now made in China, the mk1 and mk2 where made in Germany, but Dynacord, EV Audio are all part of the Bocsh company, not vestal proper Bosch, sorry to waffel on, i'm a electronic engineer and also an audiophile, love music when it sounds right, also love vintage amps stereo reicevers etc from the late 70's early 80's, I'm going on a bit , thanks Dave love your vids, keeping them comming, always look forward to your videos
My crest 900 has about half dozen pnp and non trabsiators. It will drive pretty much any speakers to the moon.
These Bash plates are a pain. I have one now from an expensive Dynaudio sub. There are some schematics available but nothing exact. They are overly complex. It’s a class g bridge amp. I have the 80 volt b+ voltage but they modulate the negative rail to save power! This is controlled through the Bash pwm board. Very close to quitting!
Check out Q5 between the 2 caps. It looks to be on the power supply side of that small daughter board. Looks like it sharted! (look about 7:20-7:26 or so)
Also, not an exact schematic and SM, but there is one available for the Klipsch-Rw-12 on manualslib. Has a decent component breakdown for that model, amp operation theory, and schematics. I suspect the 2 MAY be similar, so it can point you in the right direction. I've never actually looked into Bash amps, so this is a learning experience for me too :D
Gotta admit, you might be onto something with Q5, that small sot-23 Transistor looks to have gotten hot at the very least as the orange snot has turned brown in its vicinity...
I have fixed several Class-D Amps already, and after some repairs you almost don't even need any schematics anymore!
That's why I went looking for a schematic of a similar product. At least it can explain some of the theory of what it's doing. I'ma laugh it Q5 is the problem lmao. I could never get that lucky on my own repairs lol.@@Elektrotechniker
I have no idea if big systems are as popular as they once were but I love having my big surround sound set up.
❄
No lead sticker? Interesting. And wasn't Klipshe called Klipshehorn? (Spelling?)
25:30 Computer motherboards share a ground with the chassis, as well as other industries - it's >very< common practice.
Well you've helped me - if you can't get this going, I have no hope on mine. That Klipsch sub I picked up a while back and couldn't fix either is heading to the great landfill in the sky. I couldn't even get the power supply going on mine. Time to move on.
you are right and why the good stuff aint made anymore .... I got a 19 inch rack full and will never get rid of that nothing comes close to the sound of a good stereo from the good old days
I fixed few of those, Turn ON but No Sound fault. Those capacitor close to those +/- 15 V regulator, change all of them. Think theres 5 of them. When the big cap goes bad, there's i think a 10 ohm close to the transformer sometime they open circuit. Common issue.
Looking for a schematic for it.
You can't beat a good quality hi-fi system
True, but many have neither the space and more importantly the ear to notice the difference.
Last time I tried to work on a bash amp, I wasn't able to get to anything on the circuit board because it had been potted with this black goo/glue material that I couldn't remove without destroying the whole thing!!
Would Isopropanol cause the circuit glue to let go.
No
Why does that glue turn brown ? The heat ?
Oxygen
I read Phillips screws were designed to cam out to prevent the user from stripping them funny how that cam out strips the screw.
JIS screws when used with a JIS driver don't cam out but will cam out worse than a Phillips screw if you use a Phillips driver on them. If the screws aren't super tight you can get by with a Phillips if you push down hard but if they are very tight, thread locked, or some bonehead rounded them off before you good luck.
I had to remove a tape head it had super tiny JIS fasteners with red thread locker on them the JIS bit gripped the head with no slop and practically no downward pressure. I could feel the head of the screw twisting then there was a snap and it came loose. I was sure I was going to snap the head off before it broke loose a Phillips definitely would have cammed out and chewed up the head before I ever broke it loose.
Philips were designed to cam out to prevent overtightening by workers using them in automotive assembly.
Hello, I was wondering if you still repair VCRs. I do have a Sony SLVR1000. It did have a broken blue gear. I did replace that, but when I put the whole thing back together, now all it does is that the head drum spins at high speed. No function appears to be working. HELP. If you still do repair, please send me info as to how I can this thing shipped to you, for you to look at it and give me an estimate. I will appreciated. Thanks
Yes I still work on them. Send me an email.
This particular VCR, (Sony SLV-R1000) is a great machine. This model, incredibly, is 34 years now. I have own it for the last 10 years-since I bought used around that time. I need to bring it back to life. I have not used it for the last three or four years, so it needs some TLC. @@12voltvids
That splooged cap was screaming at me the moment I saw it. I've replaced thousands and thousands of splooged caps over the years from the capacitor plague era, they all look like that or worse.
Least they're not shitty 80s-2000s SMD electrolytics that piss corrosive and conductive electrolyte all over the board and short everything out.
I wouldn't say the boards are made in Canada. To specify the country of origin it has to say "Made in" but here it doesn't, just says "Canada". That's not a marking that would hold up in court (if someone ever sued anyone for falsely specifying the country of origin) or in a consumer protection agency investigation (whatever name it has in Canada). Judging by the low quality components and yellow glue I'd bet it's made in China.
BTW when you measure I wouldn't assume the case of the cap is connected to the negative lead. Usually it's floating, sometimes there is sime leakage to either positive or negative or some to both. So that 90V might have been a bogus reading.
It has the name of the company indigo printed next to it. I have seen other brands of powered subs with the same board that the speaker said made in Canada on it. Our modems at work are all stamped designed in Canada because they were devoloped here, in house but they are assembled in Vietnam. The board could have been made here, if it was made in China it would typically say China on the board. This one says indigo Canada. They are in Markham Ontario.
@@12voltvids Originally BASH technology and amps were designed and manufactured in Canada as Indigo. but mfg switched to China 10-15 years ago when was bought out by Chinese company Sonavox. The design team in Canada is still active but now is purely RD, and its now also owned by a Taiwanese multinational called Merry Electronics. These boards were almost certainly made in China, which is where the unit final assembly was completed.
Here is a random question for you. I thought of it because you said the subwoofer was made in canada. And it reminded me of this old beta cassette that I have of the film white christmas. And on the front of the cassette box it has a sticker that says recorded in canada. What would be the reason they would put a sticker like that on a betamax cassette tape would it matter where it was recorded?
Duplication facility wanted everyone to know where they were. Cinram did the same with their CD and DVD pressings. Stamped right into the disk in the center
Does this glue not react to IPA at all? What a nasty adhesive...
I saw that cap as soon as you opened it IM YELLING LOOK AT THE CAP
Yes I saw it too I just didn't say anything. Initially it looked like glue on the top.
@@12voltvids ohh well 🤷 it didn't matter anyway it's fubar im having my own problems with my teac x2000r..by the way im one of the people that has a massave stereo system
@@atw4321 i have several systems. At least 5 systems.
Fun fact:you don't need a star screwdriver to install/remove star screws. A flathead will work in a pinch!
That's the redneck way.
How come you haven't pulled some parts from it before recycling? At least the cap you put in? :)
It hasn't gone yet.
@12voltvids hi
I need to know how can i replace the little battery inside my cam SONY DIGITAL 8 DCR-TRV 238 E please ..
IDONT USED IT SINCE 2013 and now it doesn't work correctly ibosh the reset bottom many times and there is nothing..
@@salwankhundy3265 most if the recent ones used a rechargable battery or super cap. Just connect a battery and it will charge up.
@12voltvids I do that way, but even if it doesn't work ..
The peep sound is too weak when you open the menu and start to choose any setting ...
@@salwankhundy3265 the internal battery is only to maintain the time and date. Nothing else.
I am in the ultra minority. I have a Harmon/Kardon 6000 watt PA for a stereo lol. I have the JBL PRX 818 ELFW subs with the JBL PRX 835s on top. DBX Speaker controller (Driverack PA2) and DBX 31 band 2 channel EQ, a BBE Sound Maximizer and the head is a Headliner R2 professional mixer. It rocks man lol.
You don't have a stereo system you have a concert hall in your living room/listening room 😊.
Yes same thing with band instruments. Certain model Bach student trumpets are made in China. If they run low on brass the brass is shipped to China, the instrument produced and sent to the US. These things should be built in the US or whatever country designs. Done to be cheap. And US brass is better than cheap Chinese brass. I know, work on these instruments everyday.
You have to love that Sony bond I think the only company that did not use it was Sony dave
Thats right they sold it to the competition and said "suckers" behind theor backs.
I worked for Sony back in the 70's when they did use that glue. We were constantly getting mysterious failures of the gate controlled switches in the Sony power supplies and horizontal circuits of the Trinitrons. Nobody could figure it out until a tech representative started observing that the glue was becoming conductive. So, yeah, Sony did have the issue, but learned about it very early on.
After you have repaired enough electronics you know when to quit.
Lol I absolutely hate phillips and even posidrive. I use torx, but I wish we had square drive here in the UK.
I think your problem was the same as mine. Of course I am not smart enough to quit now. I have the controller chip coming .
Probably the class-D daughter board / IC that isn't switching. Agreed, not worth fixing. Good try though.
That's what I suspect.
There's nothing wrong with Class-D in a subwoofer IMHO. I am all for Class-D for subwoofer or low-mid woofers and then class AB for the high frequency stuff.
There's nothing wrong with Class D period, these days. Hypex and Purifi both make excellent sounding amplifier modules that were both designed by Bruno Putzeys, considered the "Class D Guru" . I own Pass Class A amps, and have compared those with the top of the line Hypex modules. To be honest, it's a tossup as far as sound quality goes, and the Class D's are about a fifth the size.
@@johnstone7697 class D sound great for everything. The modern high end units sound amazing.
Yep, we have gone back to the era of Auratones and desktop radios. The HiFi era is OVER.
Not really. Got a good DAC and a pair of Yamaha HS-07.
I’m only 25 and I have a Technics stereo from the 80s with a cassette deck, CD player and turntable!! you’re wrong!!
@@chrisa2735-h3z yes, well I’m 52 and every house you went to had some some of 2 channel sound system with separate components. Not so now.
@@chrisa2735-h3z I must also add, good for you 👍 Someone has to keep the faith 😉
Not for me.... I still have a high end TAPE player in my car and I won't hear of any of this carp about digital is better. If you buy rubbish you get rubbish.
My feeling on the plate amps, class D and such is, even if you have a scat they are not worth repairing for profit. As a hobby, consider it a puzzle. When those class D amps fail they take out several components, some that are not cheap. Components that survive have a death wish on the next power up. I tell the guys to find a new plate amp from Parts Express and replace it. Done deal.
Agree. The bad cap was the limit. After that forget it because when they blue up its a chain reaction.
TH-cam: again deleted my neutral comment.....here we go again: on KLIPSCH community blog, there is how to repair same SUB with some schematics....tannoy ts 10 or synergy sub-10 look same to me....and there is schematic for tannoy available on the net....and Video on youtube for how to repair synergy sub-10 (as well as how to switch it from 110v to 220V)...
Somebody is on youtubes naughty list.
@@12voltvids No, I'm not: youtube does not like copy paste and links in the comments...
@@kalulukakaluluka9497
Links are how viruses are spread. They don't allow links. Only content producers can post links in description.
@@12voltvids UX design these days is extremely crappy. Just like asking for user name, then requiring to flip to the next page to enter the password, instead of showing you that you cannot post links when you try to hit the button, it just pretends all is good just to delete your comment later and then after several attempts to post the same comment shadow ban you. The internet is absolutely rotten these days. Screw those big corpos.
@@kyoudaikenTH-cam is normally vague on everything and anything as they dislike telling people the truth and prefer people finding out for themselfs.
I rather Have my board's made here- Keep the jobs here
Afaik the boards were made in Canada, shipped to China for cheap assembly and shipped back. As far as nebula, that's the name of the company that makes the fiber optic cards he just has the boards etched and bonded over in China. Same company that makes all the pcb for apple.
It's their scale of operations that makes them much cheaper than doing it here and they can't really reverse engineer his boards as he uses off the shelf parts so the board would be pretty generic. The chips are all placed and soldered in Canada and they are programmed and burned in here. Actually about 1 block from my house as he works from home and has his design lab in his house. Shipping dept is in his garage and he has a small staff working there.
I would gladly spend an extra 12 bucks on boards being made in canada than in china
I guess profit margin is slim. Most of these boards were for Canadian military communications so he is bidding against others. An extra 12.00 per board might have made the difference between getting the contract or not getting it.
Ahh well, i don't think you lost much.
The P.s.u might be Useful for something, like throwing it at the barking dog.
Wow look at that you have the buck Rogers electric screw gun,,,,,"It needs to flow down into the hall", that's what she said ,
Apparently you pay zero attention to what's selling right now. The sale of full size systems have been up for a few years now. It's not that people don't want subwoofers because they do sell, what they don't want is old subwoofers. Subs tend to take a lot of abuse making them rather unattractive in the used market. As for subs that came with a cheap package such as Onkyo put together they are worthless on the second hand market because they didn't sound good new.
The reason so many systems are on the market is because many are dumping them. I have a old Onkyo (before the dsp failure issues) and it sounds great. I had a movie playing and was being yelled at to turn it down during the action scenes with explosions and gunshots. My acient sub actually got a workout but then I have a proper home theatre.
Klipsch using hot snot, go figure, Paul W Klipsch is rolling over in his grave.
1st when he passed away they doubled all the prices of thwir heritage speakers.
Nah, slotted (flathead) is by far the worst type.
Class D amplifiers are already bad enough. If Klipsch stuffs them with Chinese parts like XC capacitors, then it shouldn't be called a quality brand. I'd rather buy a second hand Class A/B amplifier that still has Rubycon or Nichicon caps and other quality components inside than this high-noise switching rubbish .
Another uninformed that has never heard a good sounding amp. The best most transparent sound amp I have personally listened to is that vtv purify amplifier which is a class D.
I listened to recordings that i thought i knew how they sounded as i have listened to hundreds of times and there it was, a sound I thought all along was a synthesizer turned out to be an electric violin. Instruments hidden in the mix jumped out. Same CD player, same speakers just the amp was changed our from a sansui.
Not a class D. BASH is audio level tracking power supply that feeds a class AB amp.
Not a good repair tech are you.?
I'm an expert however there is no money in this. Was given to to me and it's worth about 50 bucks on the used market. So I am not about to spend much to fix it.
The glue,the glue ,boo hoo hoo.
Sony bond. Wonderful stuff that was used by everyone but Sony.
YOU GOT BASHED