i enjoyed your video on how to instal connectors ...however i have learned over the last few years that its also important to use heat shrink tube over the area that you crip i use about a 2 inch piece of heat shrink when i do this its a great way to help protect your connector from letting moisture into the coax at the connector ..its not a promise that it will last forever but it does seem to help
A couple of recommendations: (1) Use an iron with a big tip (like a stained glass soldering iron--mine is a Weller 100-watter) rather than a gun; and (2) tip the pin downward, not upward, when soldering it. That keeps molten solder from flowing down into the body of the connector, which can keep solder from flowing all the way around it and leaving an air gap, and also can allow solder to short the center pin to the shell inside the connector. Finally, I wipe the center pin with a damp paper towel after soldering to remove the excess flux while it's still warm and hasn't dried yet.
On the kit, you got the two. Because I seen two different boxes for the tools to do the complete job. Makes soldering easy. Most of the time the shield makes it a bad day for doing coax. 73 tnxs
Never saw the crimp PL259's but I am sold. I am renewing my feedlines this spring and you have sold me on the process and DX Engineering. Fantastic tower too. Love what you have done and yes I am jealous. :-) W0KRD
Randy I took a panel mount SO-239 and mounted it to a angle bracket and I put it in a vise and shove the PL-259 in it push the coax up tight and crimp. Thanks for sharing with us. Very cool tools.
Great videos Randy. Really nice setup on your tower and shack. The Squeezer thingies on the inside of the snipers that you're using to reshape the cable end after cutting, are actually stops for the tool so the handles won't smash your fingers between them. Your alternate use for them though is pretty cool, and makes a lot of sense, and awful handy too.
Hi Randy! I am a crimp-on connector convert! I can't believe all the years I've struggled soldering on connectors when a couple of tools could have made life a lot easier! I do have one suggestion though, before crimping on the the connector, I slip on a couple of inches of heat shrink tubing to help keep out the moisture. 73, Jim K8NBZ
Another couple of things I do is put the ferrule over the cable before stripping, and then I put the connector on, open the vice jaws just wider than the centre pin, and push the coax (and hence connector) gently into the side of the vice jaws which stops it moving up the coax. Then, use the crimp pliers with light pressure on the ferrule to push that up against the connector....nothing can move, and perfect crimp every time.
Looks like a cool project - look forward to seeing more. There's definitely something therapeutic about making off connectors so I think you'll have fun with the rest. The trick is not to rush even when you are feeling confident.
Thanks Randy. I've been considering getting the crimp tool and stripper to custom-shorten some too-long pre-built cables. With your video I now know that I can do this.
DX Engineering looks like they make a really nice crimp setup. I was never a big advocate of “Crimp” connectors of any type! But after watching your video, I’m definitely willing to give them a try... From the video, the DXE connectors look to be really nice quality... Not like the ones Radio Shack used to sell. Looking forward to seeing that antenna array going up, and what you use as a “Flex Joint” around the rotator.
I have all those tools and put on dozens of those connectors for Field Day cables. Nice video. One suggestion would be put the connector in the vice horizontally so there is no chance solder can flow down the hole if you get it too hot. I also use a Sharpie and mark side 1 of the cutter so I can easily see which side is which (your trick works too but you have to look closer for that). One other caution to others that might want the crimp ferrule so it looks nicer and that is NEVER crimp it twice so it looks finished. You want the flare at the bottom of the ferrule and if you double crimp it, you will loosen the crimp from the top of the ferrule (next to the connector). de NY4I
Thanks for the tour of the toolkits and such. I am new to the hobby and newly retired so I am planning on getting tools for UHF & Anderson connectors. Maybe I will attempt a N type connector at some point. I have 2 LMR400 cables in my external box and plan on running 4-5 more of SO239 feedthrough connectors on the external box. Thanks for the video
Randy, you have showed that the PL-259 connectors are a pain to use. I've now started using what I call the 'European[' style PL-259's with the screw on back end. They have the braid clamped and brought out more like an N-style shield. They also allow very strong, solid clamping on the braid between the two halves of the connector. Makes avoiding getting a short to the braid much easier. With the standard PL-259 connectors you should always check to see that the braid has not caused a short to the center conductor. Terry
Randy, a million thanks for your video. Your production values are excellent. Just watching your video is an education on how to shoot videos right. I have tried crimping. Your video brought back memories of my crimping attempts. Buy atlas my crimps did not hold. The connectors came off. And I ended up ordering coax in exact sizes with connectors already on them. I did not have, use, DX Engineering tools for those crimps. Maybe that was my mistake? Yeah, I should have gotten DX Engineering tool. Let that be a lesson for me, lol. Again thanks for the video. May God Bless and Keep You. And Oh, if you are ever in New York City, I would love to meet you and share a meal with you at my expense. Heck, I could gather local hams to meet you. We don’t have hamfest here so it’s the best way for local hams to meet you. Sorry for being verbose. 73 de N2LRB.
Attach a SO 239 connector to a piece of metal or even wood that you can clamp in a vice. Screw the PL 259 into it to hold it while you insert the coax and crimp it. I also agree with the others that have mentioned to tin the center conductor before inserting the coax. It will be much easier to solder.
I always solder my pl259 ends so the solder flows out of the tip a little bit. Randy's look like there is not enough solder in the tip. The center conductor MAY be soldered to the tube of the pl259 but maybe I just do over kill.
Excellent video, I would suggest that you find a bigger soldering iron. A big old iron with a diamond point or a chisel tip on it that has a lot of residual heat in it. It makes soldering those connectors a lot easier.
GREAT video Randy… Bought my crimper from HRO which has zero instructions… I am new to crimping and now know to align the two die so that the bump and hole fully engage. I am still waffling on the DX Engineering cable prep tools for $300! 73 de Robert K3RRR
Not cheap no however you can get them individually as well.I myself use a lot of RG-8x and only really needed one for it so I got just the 8x set.And I will say well worth it..Makes doing cable a lot faster once you do them a few times
Tin the center to hold it tight asap. Also tin braid before you solder a fitting on it help keep it as tight as when it was made. Then do braid trimming. Don't tin braid if you plan to crimp the 259 fitting. I also like to use dual wall heat shrink over outside crimp, just leave a 1/8" room for the collar to spin.
Im wondering if it would be a better solder if you tin the center copper wire first, (trim off splatter solder so it fits the center core barrel) then assemble the coax fitting. After the crimp is secured, then add solder to the center wire barrel (guide) and I would think this would give a better solder bond to the core wire?
Guess what you Video got me to one. For now just for the larger cable. Been off the radio for years. Thanks for you time. How things have changed. TECHNOLOGY WOW TECHMINDS SHORT ON sorry for the caps. Got carried away 73 KQ4CD
On LMR 400 type cable, the barrel fits tight against the coax, so it should not slide forward. It's possible to slide forward, but it takes force to slip the barrel on the coax, so to me it's not likely to slide forward during crimping. Just keep an eye on it!
Nice antenna and beam mate, but I think you should have left more 'breathing' space between the beam and the top of the tower; that is, you should have mounted the beam at least 0.5m above the top of the tower. I just noticed a picture of the beam in the JK antenna brochure. It shows the beam mounted at least 1 metre or more above the top of the tower in a position where you originally said to your helper, it goes here and he over-rode ypu and slid it all the way down to practically touching the top of the tower - I believe that it is in the wrong position where you have mounted it, and you should mount it further up the pipe away from the top of the tower.
What you've just witnessed is Dave starting his contortionist practice sessions. We feel your pain Dave in trying to handle the Pl59 connector assemblies. Lol
Hi, I saw this movie and I say so, all the stripping tool is a cool thing but to earn money by selling these gadgets, for me it is a triumph of form over content. I will give you important advice, the middle conductor of the cable should protrude slightly more than on your video it can be seen, and the second thing, when soldering the central conductor you need to heat the cable conductor and the middle pin of the plug at the same time - from the front and not only the middle pin of the plug on the side .. The middle conductor of the cable must heat up enough to absorb tin - soldering like on video leads to so-called cold solders(dry solder) Take this as good advice from a younger colleague - soldering iron is my work tool ... Witek, SP5TAA
Those cutters automatically strip it to that length so that the end of the inner braid reaches right to the end of the inner connector without any sticking out.
You Might find it easier to slide the ferrule onto the cable PRIOR to removing the braid insulation --- reduces possibility to dinging the exposed braid
for better or for worse (don't yet know the outcome), but the ferrules made by Amphenol are a LITTLE thinner, requiring less strain on the crimpers. As an alternative, once the jaws are closed enough to present strong resistance, I've wrapped the handles with a towel and finished the squeeze using plumber channel locks to finish closing the crimper jaws [[Learned this while squeezing AN7 rivets]].... something to think about
I have enjoyed all the videos and the information you have given out . I would love to try the cramping tools that you're using . Good luck with the rest of the project .73 AE4OY WILLIAM Peacock EM-81UF
Hi Randy, after 2 years of not using my cutting and crimping tool, I was grateful to be reminded about your excellent video!! Thanks again.
i enjoyed your video on how to instal connectors ...however i have learned over the last few years that its also important to use heat shrink tube over the area that you crip i use about a 2 inch piece of heat shrink when i do this its a great way to help protect your connector from letting moisture into the coax at the connector ..its not a promise that it will last forever but it does seem to help
good idea
A couple of recommendations: (1) Use an iron with a big tip (like a stained glass soldering iron--mine is a Weller 100-watter) rather than a gun; and (2) tip the pin downward, not upward, when soldering it. That keeps molten solder from flowing down into the body of the connector, which can keep solder from flowing all the way around it and leaving an air gap, and also can allow solder to short the center pin to the shell inside the connector. Finally, I wipe the center pin with a damp paper towel after soldering to remove the excess flux while it's still warm and hasn't dried yet.
Good ideas
Also, Don't use so much heat that it boils or damages the teflon insulation.
Randy, I find it best to solder the center connector first. Then the body of the PL-259 is less likely to slide off as your crimp on the barrell.
Hi Scott!! That's a great idea!! 73, Jim WX3B
That's how I do it as well.
On the kit, you got the two. Because I seen two different boxes for the tools to do the complete job. Makes soldering easy. Most of the time the shield makes it a bad day for doing coax.
73 tnxs
Never saw the crimp PL259's but I am sold. I am renewing my feedlines this spring and you have sold me on the process and DX Engineering. Fantastic tower too. Love what you have done and yes I am jealous. :-) W0KRD
The connectors go on much quicker. Thanks, Randy
Randy I took a panel mount SO-239 and mounted it to a angle bracket and I put it in a vise and shove the PL-259 in it push the coax up tight and crimp. Thanks for sharing with us. Very cool tools.
Quick and easy with those tools. One thing i would do though would be to put a good heatshrink on the crimped end make it more water tight
Great videos Randy. Really nice setup on your tower and shack. The Squeezer thingies on the inside of the snipers that you're using to reshape the cable end after cutting, are actually stops for the tool so the handles won't smash your fingers between them. Your alternate use for them though is pretty cool, and makes a lot of sense, and awful handy too.
I can say that this sponsorship sold at least one set of both the prep and crimp tools!
Hi Randy! I am a crimp-on connector convert! I can't believe all the years I've struggled soldering on connectors when a couple of tools could have made life a lot easier! I do have one suggestion though, before crimping on the the connector, I slip on a couple of inches of heat shrink tubing to help keep out the moisture. 73, Jim K8NBZ
Another couple of things I do is put the ferrule over the cable before stripping, and then I put the connector on, open the vice jaws just wider than the centre pin, and push the coax (and hence connector) gently into the side of the vice jaws which stops it moving up the coax. Then, use the crimp pliers with light pressure on the ferrule to push that up against the connector....nothing can move, and perfect crimp every time.
I’ll have to try that
Looks like a cool project - look forward to seeing more. There's definitely something therapeutic about making off connectors so I think you'll have fun with the rest. The trick is not to rush even when you are feeling confident.
Thanks for the video Randy!
Thanks Randy. I've been considering getting the crimp tool and stripper to custom-shorten some too-long pre-built cables. With your video I now know that I can do this.
DX Engineering looks like they make a really nice crimp setup. I was never a big advocate of “Crimp” connectors of any type! But after watching your video, I’m definitely willing to give them a try... From
the video, the DXE connectors look to be really nice quality... Not like the ones Radio Shack used to sell.
Looking forward to seeing that antenna array going up, and what you use as a “Flex Joint” around the rotator.
I have all those tools and put on dozens of those connectors for Field Day cables. Nice video. One suggestion would be put the connector in the vice horizontally so there is no chance solder can flow down the hole if you get it too hot. I also use a Sharpie and mark side 1 of the cutter so I can easily see which side is which (your trick works too but you have to look closer for that). One other caution to others that might want the crimp ferrule so it looks nicer and that is NEVER crimp it twice so it looks finished. You want the flare at the bottom of the ferrule and if you double crimp it, you will loosen the crimp from the top of the ferrule (next to the connector). de NY4I
Thanks, good points
Thanks for the tour of the toolkits and such. I am new to the hobby and newly retired so I am planning on getting tools for UHF & Anderson connectors. Maybe I will attempt a N type connector at some point. I have 2 LMR400 cables in my external box and plan on running 4-5 more of SO239 feedthrough connectors on the external box. Thanks for the video
Randy, you have showed that the PL-259 connectors are a pain to use. I've now started using what I call the 'European[' style PL-259's with the screw on back end. They have the braid clamped and brought out more like an N-style shield. They also allow very strong, solid clamping on the braid between the two halves of the connector. Makes avoiding getting a short to the braid much easier. With the standard PL-259 connectors you should always check to see that the braid has not caused a short to the center conductor. Terry
I have one short, I now check before I crimp.
I worked on Marine and Navy electronic systems and many coax connectors.That thing is pretty handy.
Looking forward to seeing the next video Randy
To prevent deforming your cable when you cut it, use a dremmel with a cut-off wheel.
Nice job Randy! Those cutters and grippers are nice.
Randy, a million thanks for your video. Your production values are excellent. Just watching your video is an education on how to shoot videos right. I have tried crimping. Your video brought back memories of my crimping attempts. Buy atlas my crimps did not hold. The connectors came off. And I ended up ordering coax in exact sizes with connectors already on them. I did not have, use, DX Engineering tools for those crimps. Maybe that was my mistake? Yeah, I should have gotten DX Engineering tool. Let that be a lesson for me, lol. Again thanks for the video. May God Bless and Keep You. And Oh, if you are ever in New York City, I would love to meet you and share a meal with you at my expense. Heck, I could gather local hams to meet you. We don’t have hamfest here so it’s the best way for local hams to meet you. Sorry for being verbose. 73 de N2LRB.
Attach a SO 239 connector to a piece of metal or even wood that you can clamp in a vice. Screw the PL 259 into it to hold it while you insert the coax and crimp it. I also agree with the others that have mentioned to tin the center conductor before inserting the coax. It will be much easier to solder.
Randy...heat shrink tube first......Just say'n (thumbs up)
You are very good at teaching! Very detailed 👍
I find if you have one beer while doing this it steadies your hand so the connectors don't move around.
Good idea. 🍺
lmao , very true !!
I always solder my pl259 ends so the solder flows out of the tip a little bit. Randy's look like there is not enough solder in the tip. The center conductor MAY be soldered to the tube of the pl259 but maybe I just do over kill.
Yep, I would do the same as you.
What a great informative video! Thank you so much Randy! But I got to tell you you look like you’re just having too much fun! 👍👍👍😎🇨🇱 W5PN
Excellent video, I would suggest that you find a bigger soldering iron. A big old iron with a diamond point or a chisel tip on it that has a lot of residual heat in it. It makes soldering those connectors a lot easier.
Yes
GREAT video Randy… Bought my crimper from HRO which has zero instructions… I am new to crimping and now know to align the two die so that the bump and hole fully engage. I am still waffling on the DX Engineering cable prep tools for $300! 73 de Robert K3RRR
Not cheap no however you can get them individually as well.I myself use a lot of RG-8x and only really needed one for it so I got just the 8x set.And I will say well worth it..Makes doing cable a lot faster once you do them a few times
Randy you are my TH-cam Elmer! Been watching you since 2008 when I got my ticket. Keep up the great videos! 73 Kd0fmg
Thanks
Tin the center to hold it tight asap. Also tin braid before you solder a fitting on it help keep it as tight as when it was made. Then do braid trimming. Don't tin braid if you plan to crimp the 259 fitting. I also like to use dual wall heat shrink over outside crimp, just leave a 1/8" room for the collar to spin.
I’ll have to get some heat shrink
K7AGE yes it goes over the crimp part flush with 259 body.
@@kevinkc3onohelijeepworld953 >>> Kevin HeliJeepWorld
Hi there Randy great video. Is the DXE-UT-240C-P1 adjustable for depth??
Im wondering if it would be a better solder if you tin the center copper wire first, (trim off splatter solder so it fits the center core barrel) then assemble the coax fitting. After the crimp is secured, then add solder to the center wire barrel (guide) and I would think this would give a better solder bond to the core wire?
Guess what you Video got me to one. For now just for the larger cable. Been off the radio for years. Thanks for you time. How things have changed. TECHNOLOGY WOW TECHMINDS SHORT ON sorry for the caps. Got carried away 73 KQ4CD
It may be easier and less fiddly if you solder the center pin first and the crimp the Ferrell.
I wonder if it would be better to solder the center pin before crimping to make it so it can't slide forward as you're trying to crimp?
On LMR 400 type cable, the barrel fits tight against the coax, so it should not slide forward. It's possible to slide forward, but it takes force to slip the barrel on the coax, so to me it's not likely to slide forward during crimping. Just keep an eye on it!
I would solder the inner first, using gas iron. Flame is much better to get enough focused heat
I agree. I have a butane soldering iron and it works great for coax connectors and are very portable.
ARE YOU GOING TO SEAL THE CRIMP SIDE OF THE PL259 ? SO NO WATER GETS IN THERE
It dont rain at Dave's place! Lol
@@joecraft4409 ... see Part 7
Yes Randy you need "Scotch Self Bonding Electrical Tape": It is a wonderful water-proofing and dust-proofing tape - magic!!!!
I live just north of you just outside Newport. I would love to see your tower 1 day. It looks awesome! KJ7LMT
Nice antenna and beam mate, but I think you should have left more 'breathing' space between the beam and the top of the tower; that is, you should have mounted the beam at least 0.5m above the top of the tower. I just noticed a picture of the beam in the JK antenna brochure. It shows the beam mounted at least 1 metre or more above the top of the tower in a position where you originally said to your helper, it goes here and he over-rode ypu and slid it all the way down to practically touching the top of the tower - I believe that it is in the wrong position where you have mounted it, and you should mount it further up the pipe away from the top of the tower.
22:00 Maybe a round jig of some type to press the entire connector up against? Bench vise?
Do crimped connectors last outdoors? No issues with oxidation on the inside of crimped surface?
is it really necessary to remove the foil from the part of the dielectric that goes inside the connector body?
$267.99 - crazy expensive!!!!
If you solder the center lead before crimping, the plug can't slide off.
I always put a heatshrink with glue over the ferrule.
WHAT ?
What WHAT?
Soldering the center pin before the crimp is what I do.
What you've just witnessed is Dave starting his contortionist practice sessions. We feel your pain Dave in trying to handle the Pl59 connector assemblies. Lol
No heat shrink??
next connectors
Know this is a how to video on installing a connector. But yea don't forget about the Continuity test.
I'll do that before installing connectors on the other end.
@@K7AGE as long as it gets done.
Great video..
Cool tools, they appear very useful, especially if making a bunch of cable thanks for sharing. KI5FME
Hi,
I saw this movie and I say so, all the stripping tool is a cool thing but to earn money by selling these gadgets, for me it is a triumph of form over content.
I will give you important advice, the middle conductor of the cable should protrude slightly more than on your video it can be seen, and the second thing, when soldering the central conductor you need to heat the cable conductor and the middle pin of the plug at the same time - from the front and not only the middle pin of the plug on the side ..
The middle conductor of the cable must heat up enough to absorb tin - soldering like on video leads to so-called cold solders(dry solder)
Take this as good advice from a younger colleague - soldering iron is my work tool ...
Witek, SP5TAA
Those cutters automatically strip it to that length so that the end of the inner braid reaches right to the end of the inner connector without any sticking out.
What coax is this?
DX Engineering’s 400 MAX
The stripper tool will work on other 400 type coax. Works perfectly on Jefatech 400LL coax.
Bob HEIL cable?
Purple tape marker, purple is Bob Heil color!
@@arnecarlsson9740 Thanks for the clarification
You Might find it easier to slide the ferrule onto the cable PRIOR to removing the braid insulation --- reduces possibility to dinging the exposed braid
for better or for worse (don't yet know the outcome), but the ferrules made by Amphenol are a LITTLE thinner, requiring less strain on the crimpers. As an alternative, once the jaws are closed enough to present strong resistance, I've wrapped the handles with a towel and finished the squeeze using plumber channel locks to finish closing the crimper jaws [[Learned this while squeezing AN7 rivets]].... something to think about
I have enjoyed all the videos and the information you have given out . I would love to try the cramping tools that you're using . Good luck with the rest of the project .73 AE4OY WILLIAM Peacock EM-81UF