I’m very new to this realm and love to learn of it. Your comment sparked a question Tom. Why never a 45? Because of difficulty level or strength? Thanks!
Dear Metal Fab Guy: how do you keep you fingers and hands so clean?.....I always look like I just changed an engine and transmission in a WWII German Tiger Tank!!!! While at the Russian front in the Mud and Blood of the Spring Offensive......Cheers, Paul
😄😄 As you say…Hard to keep anything Clean in this game. I normally film the videos at the beginning of the day, which I guess accounts for the clean 🤚. Cheers Paul.
The 45 is more pleasing to the eye for exposed joints but has 80% of the strength that the inside & outside coping joints have due to a shorter weld bead. Weld beads are usually stonger than the parent metal.
ahhh! beginner hobbyist here building a shelf that wishes he saw this a few days ago. trying to do 45s with a chop saw I've learned is a crap shoot. I don't have a band saw. angle grinder doing either of the copes would've been better. I'll do better next time. thanks to you
And Thanks to you for watching Camilo. Instead of the Cope or mitres anther option would have been a square cut but to have sat the angle inside each other, like you see commonly on a gallows bracket. Plenty of options... Good luck with your project .
@@TheMetalFabGuy I thought of that initially but mitre looks pretty and it's for a girlfriend's garage. getting it done? I can do that. add some finesse? uhhhh
I do 45 cuts way differently. Coping is what I do when I’m joining regular mill scale covered angle iron. . But when I want it to look nice like if I’m tiging some stainless for a frame. I always go with 45
Thanks for watching Bob. Unsure with regard to the structural strength but would imagine all 3 would be more than adequate in the smaller range of material ie 2”’as per video. Personally I Would usually go for mitred option on framework. Though both methods 2&3 allow for simple square cuts on 2 sides of a frame opposed to a mitred joint being required on every end. Method 3 as the video briefly shows, can also be used as an option for a mid bar on a frame. (Where I slid it into position)
With consideration, I’d suggest that the mitred joint is the weaker of the 3. More joint to weld with the other 2 and the mitred joint has only the one axis of weld. But only my suggestion and I’m sure there’s a calculation out there somewhere to prove that.
So say you are trying to make it out of a single piece to make a shelf, couldn't you cut two opposing 45s, then cut a relief in the steel and bend the angle to make a right angle?
I could use some help. Even with a square guide I'm never getting perfect 90 squares using 45 cuts on aluminum... I figure it can't be heat, but I'm losing my mind trying (and failing) to get square corners here. Any advice? Are 45s too hard for the layman fabricator?
Maybe it introduces more ways to mess it up, but couldn't you cut a 90° notch out of 1 piece, on one side, then bend it to make 2 45° like the first method? Less cutting, less welding, maybe a little hammering. For the other methods, i was thinking if instead of removing the notch, you ground it down (thickness) and the other piece and have them overlap, then weld? You'd have a buldge but it might be stronger? Idk, new to all this, just spitballin
You could do that but be sure to bend well because the curve where it was bent adds a few millimeters and can easily mess up the 90 degrees. I had to resort to just using the first method in this video.
That is always difficult because an angle grinder with a flap sanding disk cannot reach all the way into a miter cut. The two coped 90s are easier to smooth. There are narrow hand-held belt sanders for close quarter sanding in tight spaces, but they are a specialized tool.
Most saw machines I run cut 45 angles without the extra effort. Just type 45 and go… but honestly I’ve never saw someone cut with that little of coolant.
@@TheMetalFabGuy hydmech or hem saw are what I usually run. I do like the video. I saw a lot of steel with angles,channels,flats, and I beams that are fabricated by companies who have us saw there kits. 55-100 pcs.
Thanks for watching Stephan. Mate I’m a welder fabricator with a camera phone. But I take onboard your comments for future videos. For the record the videos are chopped a lot more from the original cut. So I did at least save you from some skipping. 😂😂 All the best .
I'm glad you can't hear me yelling on #2 to just cut the dam thing !!!
Thanks for the video !!
Tired to do method #1 by myself but couldn't figure it out. Thanks to the vid now I know.
Method 2 worked a treat for me. Easy to cut it out. Easy to weld it up and turned out nice and square. No more 45 degree mitre cuts for me!
@gregwilson9035
Thanks Greg
Pleased you took from the video.
All the best.
I am right there with you.
Great stuff. I always cope, never 45. Thanks for an awesome video!
Thanks for watching Tom. 👍
I’m very new to this realm and love to learn of it.
Your comment sparked a question Tom. Why never a 45? Because of difficulty level or strength? Thanks!
ANOTHER WINNING FABRICATION VIDEO .......Thank you T M F G.......
Εισαι ο καλυτερος.Μπραβο σου.
Thanks 4 d vdeo sir...now i know how to weld angle bar
Thanks! #2 and #3 look less problematic for sure.
Better than perfect, exelent coping samples
Thank you for watching Jorge. 👍
good work, one day i will practice that with scrap material i have waiting on me. thanks!
Thank you for watching Fernando 👍
Dear Metal Fab Guy: how do you keep you fingers and hands so clean?.....I always look like I just changed an engine and transmission in a WWII German Tiger Tank!!!! While at the Russian front in the Mud and Blood of the Spring Offensive......Cheers, Paul
😄😄
As you say…Hard to keep anything
Clean in this game. I normally film the videos at the beginning of the day, which I guess accounts for the clean 🤚.
Cheers Paul.
The 45 is more pleasing to the eye for exposed joints but has 80% of the strength that the inside & outside coping joints have due to a shorter weld bead. Weld beads are usually stonger than the parent metal.
this. people forget the metal used for welding is very pure and has incredible strength. More weld is a better for strength.
Полезное видео, спасибо!👍👍👍👍👍
ahhh! beginner hobbyist here building a shelf that wishes he saw this a few days ago. trying to do 45s with a chop saw I've learned is a crap shoot.
I don't have a band saw. angle grinder doing either of the copes would've been better.
I'll do better next time. thanks to you
And Thanks to you for watching Camilo.
Instead of the Cope or mitres anther option would have been a square cut but to have sat the angle inside each other, like you see commonly on a gallows bracket.
Plenty of options...
Good luck with your project .
@@TheMetalFabGuy I thought of that initially but mitre looks pretty and it's for a girlfriend's garage.
getting it done? I can do that. add some finesse? uhhhh
excelente video. Saludos
I do 45 cuts way differently. Coping is what I do when I’m joining regular mill scale covered angle iron. . But when I want it to look nice like if I’m tiging some stainless for a frame. I always go with 45
Thanks for your comments and watching Steve. 👍
Nice work brother man
Thank you Justin
Is any one of them structurally stronger than the other one? Which one is your preferred method if not specified by the drawing?
Thanks for watching Bob. Unsure with regard to the structural strength but would imagine all 3 would be more than adequate in the smaller range of material ie 2”’as per video.
Personally I Would usually go for mitred option on framework.
Though both methods 2&3 allow for simple square cuts on 2 sides of a frame opposed to a mitred joint being required on every end.
Method 3 as the video briefly shows, can also be used as an option for a mid bar on a frame.
(Where I slid it into position)
@@TheMetalFabGuy thanks so much for your explanation.
With consideration, I’d suggest that the mitred joint is the weaker of the 3. More joint to weld with the other 2 and the mitred joint has only the one axis of weld. But only my suggestion and I’m sure there’s a calculation out there somewhere to prove that.
The first one
So satisfying watching your videos. How long you been fabricating?
Hi Dalton.
Thank you for watching.
25+years metal bashing
@@TheMetalFabGuy UK or Australia? Canada?
❤ very good
Que giz é esse que tu usa?
Pa nagdrill ng bakal sir.alin ang maganda lagyan ng tubig o hindi na?
So say you are trying to make it out of a single piece to make a shelf, couldn't you cut two opposing 45s, then cut a relief in the steel and bend the angle to make a right angle?
Sure can. Good option for a 90 👍
Yes, by far the easiest option if you have a long piece, just make sure you leave an extra mm to be filed away if necessary for a perfect fit.
@@TheMetalFabGuy can be used for other degrees, just divide the angle you need by two and then trace each one.
I could use some help. Even with a square guide I'm never getting perfect 90 squares using 45 cuts on aluminum... I figure it can't be heat, but I'm losing my mind trying (and failing) to get square corners here. Any advice? Are 45s too hard for the layman fabricator?
Once you’ve welded the 45°s or before ?
Sounds silly but make sure your square is actually square to begin with.
Thank you
Thank you .
2 and 3 look the same to me. Why are they different?
Similar but it’s to do with the cut Matt.
And what’s taken away to facilitate the incoming section at 90°
@TheMetalFabGuy ty. I will look more closely
@@TheMetalFabGuy ooooOOOOoooohhh. I put them side by side. TY. When is it better to do an inside or outside coping union?
Maybe it introduces more ways to mess it up, but couldn't you cut a 90° notch out of 1 piece, on one side, then bend it to make 2 45° like the first method? Less cutting, less welding, maybe a little hammering.
For the other methods, i was thinking if instead of removing the notch, you ground it down (thickness) and the other piece and have them overlap, then weld? You'd have a buldge but it might be stronger? Idk, new to all this, just spitballin
You could do that but be sure to bend well because the curve where it was bent adds a few millimeters and can easily mess up the 90 degrees. I had to resort to just using the first method in this video.
This is awesome, thanks a million
Thanks for watching 👍
What thickness is the material
5mm
Hi, what machine are you using to cut the steel?
Bandsaw for the cut to size. Angle grinder to notch.
nice information =)
Thanks for watching 👍
how to smooth the inner part
That is always difficult because an angle grinder with a flap sanding disk cannot reach all the way into a miter cut. The two coped 90s are easier to smooth. There are narrow hand-held belt sanders for close quarter sanding in tight spaces, but they are a specialized tool.
Saved humanity from not knowing how to use hands and toilet paper
Most saw machines I run cut 45 angles without the extra effort. Just type 45 and go… but honestly I’ve never saw someone cut with that little of coolant.
Thanks for watching Eric 👍
“Type 45”. That’s some saw you have.
Look forward to your video.
Sometimes I cut without any coolant 🤫
@@TheMetalFabGuy hydmech or hem saw are what I usually run. I do like the video. I saw a lot of steel with angles,channels,flats, and I beams that are fabricated by companies who have us saw there kits. 55-100 pcs.
Good video, nice techniques, but what's with the long pauses between the cuts? Had to skip through more than half of the video.
Thanks for watching Stephan.
Mate I’m a welder fabricator with a camera phone. But I take onboard your comments for future videos.
For the record the videos are chopped a lot more from the original cut. So I did at least save you from some skipping. 😂😂
All the best .
Nice
Yes
cool !!
Thanks for watching 👍
Now part 2, I do not do !! Can’t stand cutting with grinders. Just to risky
👍🏻
Thanks for watching 👍
I always do a 45 for an outside corner, only cope for the inside joint
Thanks for watching 👍
method 2 and 3 are the same
Take another look Faraidun.
Thanks for watching
I agree. They are very similar. The only difference is what side is the coped piece cut.
#3❤
1st one is beautiful and better
Good work
Cheers Paulo.
Thanks for watching
I wish I could message you directly. . Life's not perfect.
Instagram Sammy
Tan{90}=8×50=16mm.
I do have easy way in round;
Are you mute ?
What would you like to talk about @blackn5485 ?
He is skilled
There’s a fourth way
Thanks for watching Joseph.
I think there may be a couple more at least.
Cope is better stronger
သိတဂူဆရါောာ်တရါးောွ်၎င်းျါး
45s are the best