It seems to me that you have become a very talented Machinist and designer since you first started this adventure... I congratulate you on all your efforts... Very well done...!!!!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Kudos on the progress you’ve made. I’ve bored/sleeved hundreds of cylinders with interference fit, and have gotten my share of stuck liners. (Yes, usually in a hurry) I found out that you CANNOT rush this process. Measure, measure and measure again... At 375 degrees F for no less than 45 minutes in the oven, a properly bored cylinder at .003” interference fit, the liner would drop right in. Four strokes were simple, two strokes took more patience to achieve proper port alignment. Your port windows are HUGE!! That’s stinker should flow crazy numbers. Good luck, can’t wait for the next video.
It was lovely to hear a Norwegian say “fettling”. Not every first-language English-speaker knows the word, unless they play with two-strokes (of course). Keep fettling Alex.
Hello Alex, a cheat you might consider for bringing bubbles to the top of your investment would be to press a running jig saw or sawzall/demolition saw against the vessel for high frequency vibration on the cheep. I am so glad you have been able to get more time in the shop it is really paying off.
Another tip depending on the motor setup is if you can vary the motor speed while cutting a gentle changing rpm by +/- 150-200 rpm can also help stop chatter building up while turning -easyist on cnc where the spindle is computer controlled but can be done manually on vfd driven motors
Something I love about his work and ways is he is always willing to admit he has made a mistake or mis calculation in his work, and usually is able to laugh about it too. Something we can all learn to do.
Long-time subscriber here and it's amazing to see you always continuing to push the envelope. I love your drive to improve upon things that people have given up on trying things that nobody else has ever tried before. You never give up until you've accomplished what you are aiming to achieve. Keep at it man I'll be here watching from the sidelines. What you do is incredible and a gift from, well something. I say something because I don't know your religious beliefs but I do believe your talent and Ingenuity is a true gift and your intelligence on physics and understanding engineering is from your tremendous Drive to want to learn. I can't wait to see what Beast of a creation this will become but I'm excited to see the outcome.
Awesome! Gotta love a press. It was one of the first "big" tools I bought, found the biggest cheapest one I could find and it has paid for itself many times over. That sleeve looked perfect!
I suffer from impatience myself at times. Hang in there. You got this. When pressing parts in never forget the power of temperature. The liner cold and the cylinder warm can make it easier.
You can use canned air computer duster to cool things much colder than a freezer. Just turn the can upside down while spraying. The liquid comes out super cold.
You need to look at the sleeve valve on the Rolls Royce Creci engine. but instead of making it the piston sleeve, a spinning ring that fits inside the two cylinder halves. it's basically a ring shaped rotary valve.
The casting sounded like there was still too much moisture in the mold. And out of an emergency situation (liner halfway stuck in the bore!) finally the press arrived, everyone doing serious mechanical work should have one, makes things so much easier.
I'm currently 228 kilometers from the Bonneville Salt Flats. 🧂 Attending the event where you blow away the 50cc class speed event is of utmost priority! I realize there's not much time left this year but I do hope to see you there!!
I have to say that you're very resourceful and inventive, but the press was an essential... we're nearly there, can't wait to hear the beast fire... cheers buddy 👍🇭🇲❤️🔥
I felt your pain in that sleeve 'drop in' process. I found over the years when dropping in sleeves or even case bearings, that dropping in a frozen or chilled part into a heated block of aluminum will cause the cold part to transfer its temperature quickly to the aluminum and negate the expansion process achieved by heating the part originally. Leaving that sleeve at room temp when dropping it into the heated and expanded block would have been more successful. Love the videos brother.
When I tried PETG, It was "wet" when I got it, I had to store it in a dry box and dehydrate it for it to print well. Best of luck, you are an inspiration.
I fancy making a radial four Simson. It will have four pots set around the crankcase. All four big ends are carried by one long crank pin. Intake air & fuel enter via a hollow crank at the non-drive end. It will need a blower for engine start, but I suspect once it’s on the pipes, the blower won’t be adding anything.
2 things you have to watch for with petg... temp and moisture. I find on my printer, most petg prints well in the 240-250c range. Also, it is hydroscopic, so it really needs to be kept dry. if in doubt, you can dry it in an oven. there is a chart somewhere that lists drying temps for different filiments
start degassing your aluminum. foil sheet. 1 gram of baking soda per pound and a half of aluminum, then scoop for dross then pour. saw a lot of dross fall out of the crucible at the start of the pour. using the foil delivery method and pushing into the bottom of the crucible ensures you get a good clean pour more consistently. give it a shot it helps immensely
You could try printing a temperature ladder using SuperSlicer (It has the options somewhere I forget now) to help find the best settings. I find that PETG likes to be printed with a bit more z-offset than PLA does and its also a LOT stickier so you don't have to print on rafts as often. If you start to print a lot with PETG you may want to invest in a sock for your hotend as it makes cleanup a bit easier (especially if you end up with a blob of doom). If underextrusion is the main issue still you could try an e-step calibration.
@@2STROKESTUFFING in 1980 I fixed up a puch moped and it would run 52mph in flat ground and well over 60 going down the bridge to the beach. It had a jawa cylinder and piston and a modified 17mm carb facing forward and a modified pipe. Thomos rear rim and sprocket turned around backwards and a Suzuki TM 75 front end. I was 16 and it sounded like a chainsaw. It was cafe style. Fast and fun. I would pass the bus going to school. I did the engine work at school in machine shop. I had a clue but was lucky that it ran so well. I see what you are doing snd it blows my mind. I learn so much from your videos and it inspires my to do more. Thanks snd cheers from Morrison Colorado.
Your persistence and trouble shooting is amazing. I’m waiting for the day you realise 50cc 2 stroke is not worth it. The skills you have and the ability to make something from scratch is amazing..! Please build and engine worth having. You are starting from scratch everytime, I wish you well and happy vibes for the future
Cool to see you back to casting. For the clog you had, may be the end of the PTFE tube inside the hotend is cooked, quick fix cut 10mm (if the tube is long enough). For PETG on the Ender3 I run 230C/80C, 30% to 50% for the Cooling Fan, Retraction Speed 25mm/s, Print Speed about 10 to 20% slower than PLA.
I have a doubt? Cast iron cylinder sleeve is not gonna make max power. It must be plated aluminium cylinder these days. But what the heck! Can't wait to see this one being started!
If you are going to use 3d printed parts for your intake, i would suggest using DSM Novamid ID1030-CF10, I printed intake runners for my car with the stuff and i have daily driven it for over half a year now so it certainly works. its also pretty easy to print. you would need a steel nozzle in your printer though since the filament has carbon fibre in it.
@@2STROKESTUFFING Nice, with nylon you need to make sure the filament is dried, if its not it will print like shit, if a spool got 'wet' you can still dry it and get it back to its original performance. most filament manufacturers have instructions on how to do that. Ive personaly used a polymaker Polybox to store my nylon. it has a gauge for the moisture in the air and uses silica gel bags to keep the filament dry, so it doesnt use power. the silica gel can also be dried if it has absorbed to much moisture. Im also very impressed by how quick you picked up the machining you are doing. a few weeks ago i had exams for which is passed and it now makes me a professional machinist :) Keep it up!
I must say its impressive that you keep chipping away at these projects, at the rate you do. Despite the naysaying and arm chair quarterbacking you often get. Good work man, In the day of the electric vehicle push. Its great to see people like you still pushing to learn, and innovate mechanical designs.
Very nice work Alex, I had many days where everything went to shit, man bud, your work has come along way, my friend told me to by tooling instead of parts, once I have the tooling you can do anything. Keep up the good work, been watching your channel for years, looking forward to the next video.
You should either get a vice, or clamp for when you're drilling stuff. I get scared, and anxiety everytime I see you drill something without clamping it down
PETG works best at 240-250 degrees with a relatively low feed rate due to the viscoscity. Too high it can clog, too low and you can get under-extrusion due to feed slipping and poor layer adhesion. I find that it works better with bigger nozzles too (probably due to viscoscity). A 0.6mm nozzle with a 0.1mm layer height is much nicer than a 0.4mm nozzle with a 0.15mm layer height in terms of overhangs and layer adhesion. That said, have you considered just using ABS and using acetone to clean the mould?
Larger vents to allow venting when the alloy is poured, the mold still had molten plastic in the bottom of the investment mold preventing the alloy flowing threw.
If you use a phenolic gasket to insulate heat, then the PETG parts should be plenty good enough. Also, it seems your biggest enemy is rushing, i know the struggle myself hahah
To mount this shape in the lathe you have to measure it in both ends. There are many videos of that on youtube the way you do it is can cause errors. Greatings.
when printing PETG you should run atleast 240C nozzle and also print slower than PLA ! ive had ur exact problem with PETG. it really doesnt like being pushed out too fast through the nozzle. i print PLA at 40-60 mm/s and PETG at 25-40 mm/s. hope this helps
15:25 be careful with bent rotary valves. When rebuilding Trabant-Engines (which have rotary valves too), it is crucial that they are perfectly flat so they can seal properly. In that case, the rotary valves control the inlet though... I don't know if it makes a huge difference when the exhaust port doesn't seal 100%. Just wanted to tell you. Love your vids man, greetings from Germany!
thanks god lol i was watching swearing and cursing "your ment to be building a precision piece of engerneering and ya bashing it with a f$%ing hammer and block of wood??? Get a pre.....thanks the 2stroke GODS YES JUST YES" my house mate thinks in nuts :P keep up the good work
CF (or glass fiber) Nylon/PA would be great for those 3d printed parts. Can be printed on the ender 3 without an enclosure, just a metal hot end, and an abrasion-resistant nozzle. I'd recommend Dyze, because they offer tungsten carbide nozzles.
For id boring the tool needs to be slightly above center, that way when the bar flexes, it falls away from the material and does not gouge into the cut.
Nice work. FYI- If you want to be as precise as possible and be sure your bore is concentric with the OD of a part in the lathe; you have to indicate in two places on the OD of the cylinder (farther apart the better) or you could indicate in the face of the part if it's good and perpendicular. This is because the part can be rotating off-axis and still indicate good in one spot along the OD. ATB
There is Nylon with carbon fiber. I am using this and it is amazing. Your Ender 3 will print this filament if you install a bi-metal heat break and a hardened nozzle. It will change your life.
Either your tolerances are a little bit to tight or your freezer is not freezing enough. Normally when thermal fitting is employed parts should slide in without any effort but liquid nitrogen is used.
When i cast all the aluminum parts in the 2 stroke rc builds. I used 3d printed parts as well lol! I found a hand sander that vibrates is the boss to release all the air on larger casting molds! Have you tried wax printing filament yet? Really is easy to clean out of you mold
yeah, Langtuning! It's a very respectable tuning-company for Simson mopeds from the former GDR here in Germany. Nice to see them helping you out!
New two stroke stuffing video always makes my day! Thank you!
Alex, there is a 3D printer wax filament available for printing lost wax investment patterns, it may help you speed up your burnout times 👍
Just like how the ancient Greeks did it.
It also doesn't leave residu like a plastic print will do.
I wondered about gently blowing air into the form with a thin steel tube, to help with the burnout.
@@rubikmonat6589 I don't know anything about casting but I imagine that could lead to oxide formation
Wow that's cool. I had no idea that existed, but it makes perfect sense.
It seems to me that you have become a very talented Machinist and designer since you first started this adventure...
I congratulate you on all your efforts...
Very well done...!!!!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks!
Kudos on the progress you’ve made. I’ve bored/sleeved hundreds of cylinders with interference fit, and have gotten my share of stuck liners. (Yes, usually in a hurry) I found out that you CANNOT rush this process. Measure, measure and measure again... At 375 degrees F for no less than 45 minutes in the oven, a properly bored cylinder at .003” interference fit, the liner would drop right in. Four strokes were simple, two strokes took more patience to achieve proper port alignment. Your port windows are HUGE!! That’s stinker should flow crazy numbers. Good luck, can’t wait for the next video.
Geile Sache das Langtuning auch dabei ist :D
Ja so gut😂
Jetzt muss der Zylinder nur noch auf einen Simsonmotor drauf 😂
Dachte ich mir auch, die ham ihren Laden nur 1km von mir entfernt
Was ein zufall
@@marcelpursche5339 😂wer weiß
@Quirin M. glaube Kupplung und Getriebe würden auch nicht lange überleben.
I love the scope of what you are doing. Casting your own parts. Brilliant.
Great video! It nice to see that you use your cylinder casting skills again now. And no annoying music this time. Thanks!
It was lovely to hear a Norwegian say “fettling”. Not every first-language English-speaker knows the word, unless they play with two-strokes (of course). Keep fettling Alex.
The correct tool for the job (hydraulic press) makes for light work. I am humbled by the skills you have mastered in your quest.
Hello Alex, a cheat you might consider for bringing bubbles to the top of your investment would be to press a running jig saw or sawzall/demolition saw against the vessel for high frequency vibration on the cheep. I am so glad you have been able to get more time in the shop it is really paying off.
👍 Great tip!
@@2STROKESTUFFING
Every little bit helps. Even silversmithing knowledge can help with an engine, who knew? Best of luck, glad to help.
Dude, chill and take your time. You’re doing great
Little tip for boring bar chattering slap a lump of putty on the back of the bar it can absorb some of the vibration and help reduce chatter
Another tip depending on the motor setup is if you can vary the motor speed while cutting a gentle changing rpm by +/- 150-200 rpm can also help stop chatter building up while turning -easyist on cnc where the spindle is computer controlled but can be done manually on vfd driven motors
Thanks for the tip!
👍
Something I love about his work and ways is he is always willing to admit he has made a mistake or mis calculation in his work, and usually is able to laugh about it too. Something we can all learn to do.
Way to press the issue. Very impressing. Good work under your pressure.
Was a pressing matter, more than a pressumption. Thankfully a solution pressented itself, and I pressed on.
LANGTUNING 🇩🇪💪💪
Long-time subscriber here and it's amazing to see you always continuing to push the envelope. I love your drive to improve upon things that people have given up on trying things that nobody else has ever tried before. You never give up until you've accomplished what you are aiming to achieve. Keep at it man I'll be here watching from the sidelines. What you do is incredible and a gift from, well something. I say something because I don't know your religious beliefs but I do believe your talent and Ingenuity is a true gift and your intelligence on physics and understanding engineering is from your tremendous Drive to want to learn. I can't wait to see what Beast of a creation this will become but I'm excited to see the outcome.
Awesome! Gotta love a press. It was one of the first "big" tools I bought, found the biggest cheapest one I could find and it has paid for itself many times over. That sleeve looked perfect!
Lol at the bit where I was thinking damn man you need a press.Cuts to the auto shop 🤣🤣🤣
i was thinking the exact same thing
The workpress is a real addon for your workshop!
Cool, that Jan from Langtuning supports you, Alex. The dudes from Langtuning know, what they are doing! Greetings from Saxony/Germany!
Wow, great job on the liner. It looks really well done.
Alex You are just the perfect engineer I have come across just awesome your skills are just out of the world
I suffer from impatience myself at times. Hang in there. You got this. When pressing parts in never forget the power of temperature. The liner cold and the cylinder warm can make it easier.
You're clearly mad with a hint of genius! Rooting for you!
You can use canned air computer duster to cool things much colder than a freezer. Just turn the can upside down while spraying. The liquid comes out super cold.
Has to be the most beautiful cylinder sleeve I've ever seen!!
Peek is a great option for 3d printed motor components. Highly chemical resistant and heat resistant.
You need to look at the sleeve valve on the Rolls Royce Creci engine. but instead of making it the piston sleeve, a spinning ring that fits inside the two cylinder halves. it's basically a ring shaped rotary valve.
My thoughts exactly.
The casting sounded like there was still too much moisture in the mold.
And out of an emergency situation (liner halfway stuck in the bore!) finally the press arrived, everyone doing serious mechanical work should have one, makes things so much easier.
Yep, moisture and pla.
I'm currently 228 kilometers from the Bonneville Salt Flats. 🧂
Attending the event where you blow away the 50cc class speed event is of utmost priority! I realize there's not much time left this year but I do hope to see you there!!
its so cool to see you making your own parts ate this rate, you have become so far already. trail and error is part of it.
I have to say that you're very resourceful and inventive, but the press was an essential... we're nearly there, can't wait to hear the beast fire... cheers buddy 👍🇭🇲❤️🔥
I felt your pain in that sleeve 'drop in' process. I found over the years when dropping in sleeves or even case bearings, that dropping in a frozen or chilled part into a heated block of aluminum will cause the cold part to transfer its temperature quickly to the aluminum and negate the expansion process achieved by heating the part originally. Leaving that sleeve at room temp when dropping it into the heated and expanded block would have been more successful. Love the videos brother.
I have a PETG printet inlet from airbox to carb on my XR628. Still holding up ofter 6 years.
👍😁
When I tried PETG, It was "wet" when I got it, I had to store it in a dry box and dehydrate it for it to print well. Best of luck, you are an inspiration.
God, I hope this engine runs!
@@canadianoddy8504 Fail to prepare, prepare to fail...
@@frankg3278 I think this dude is out to lunch, ALL DAY.
I fancy making a radial four Simson. It will have four pots set around the crankcase. All four big ends are carried by one long crank pin. Intake air & fuel enter via a hollow crank at the non-drive end. It will need a blower for engine start, but I suspect once it’s on the pipes, the blower won’t be adding anything.
2 things you have to watch for with petg... temp and moisture. I find on my printer, most petg prints well in the 240-250c range. Also, it is hydroscopic, so it really needs to be kept dry. if in doubt, you can dry it in an oven. there is a chart somewhere that lists drying temps for different filiments
And yes this project can work. I am Waiting to see the 1st start.
Alex, I swear watching your videos reminds me of The Fastest Indian, Burt Munro. Keep up the great work.
I almost cried after the cast failed. Feel you bro! Keep up, can't wait the next video!💪
i can not Wait at that Engine Rip Like maniac
start degassing your aluminum. foil sheet. 1 gram of baking soda per pound and a half of aluminum, then scoop for dross then pour. saw a lot of dross fall out of the crucible at the start of the pour. using the foil delivery method and pushing into the bottom of the crucible ensures you get a good clean pour more consistently. give it a shot it helps immensely
You could try printing a temperature ladder using SuperSlicer (It has the options somewhere I forget now) to help find the best settings. I find that PETG likes to be printed with a bit more z-offset than PLA does and its also a LOT stickier so you don't have to print on rafts as often. If you start to print a lot with PETG you may want to invest in a sock for your hotend as it makes cleanup a bit easier (especially if you end up with a blob of doom). If underextrusion is the main issue still you could try an e-step calibration.
Hi Alex. I’ve been checking out your videos for a while. Great work.
Thanks!
@@2STROKESTUFFING in 1980 I fixed up a puch moped and it would run 52mph in flat ground and well over 60 going down the bridge to the beach. It had a jawa cylinder and piston and a modified 17mm carb facing forward and a modified pipe. Thomos rear rim and sprocket turned around backwards and a Suzuki TM 75 front end. I was 16 and it sounded like a chainsaw. It was cafe style. Fast and fun. I would pass the bus going to school. I did the engine work at school in machine shop. I had a clue but was lucky that it ran so well. I see what you are doing snd it blows my mind. I learn so much from your videos and it inspires my to do more. Thanks snd cheers from Morrison Colorado.
Your persistence and trouble shooting is amazing.
I’m waiting for the day you realise 50cc 2 stroke is not worth it.
The skills you have and the ability to make something from scratch is amazing..!
Please build and engine worth having.
You are starting from scratch everytime, I wish you well and happy vibes for the future
Cool to see you back to casting. For the clog you had, may be the end of the PTFE tube inside the hotend is cooked, quick fix cut 10mm (if the tube is long enough). For PETG on the Ender3 I run 230C/80C, 30% to 50% for the Cooling Fan, Retraction Speed 25mm/s, Print Speed about 10 to 20% slower than PLA.
thanks for the reminder about the store finally got round to ordering a long sleeve tshirt "easy isnt worth anything" is a fantastic saying!
Haha! You got a press. Top 10 tool in the garage....
I have a doubt? Cast iron cylinder sleeve is not gonna make max power. It must be plated aluminium cylinder these days. But what the heck! Can't wait to see this one being started!
Easier for a prototype.
... "Liner direct from the freezer" ... lol ... reminds me of my first attempt installing a piston pin :)
Alex.Your choice of footwear worried me I bit when pouring moulted metal.
He has learned by watching how they do it in india😂
Yeah, they're at least leather, but yeah.
Really? It was his choice in head-wear that concerned me : ) JK
I'm so glad to see you got an actual press.
I have been using a press since I was 12 years old, not the way to install this sleeve by a long shot.....WRONG!!!!!!
HEAT
It would be awesome, if you would come to Germany to check out some german Simson Mopeds from Langtuning
Stimmt
Ran an die 130er
@@arnogthr eine Simson mit dem Zylinder/Motorkonzept wär mal was
@@nilsh.3285 Ja gibt ja mittlerweile auch 160ccm aber keinen drehschieber mit kompressor :)
@@nilsh.3285 jedes moped damit währe was!!!!!!!!!!!!!°°
If you are going to use 3d printed parts for your intake, i would suggest using DSM Novamid ID1030-CF10, I printed intake runners for my car with the stuff and i have daily driven it for over half a year now so it certainly works. its also pretty easy to print. you would need a steel nozzle in your printer though since the filament has carbon fibre in it.
I've ordered some carbon filled nylon and a full metal hot end with hardened nozzle 👍
@@2STROKESTUFFING Nice, with nylon you need to make sure the filament is dried, if its not it will print like shit, if a spool got 'wet' you can still dry it and get it back to its original performance. most filament manufacturers have instructions on how to do that.
Ive personaly used a polymaker Polybox to store my nylon. it has a gauge for the moisture in the air and uses silica gel bags to keep the filament dry, so it doesnt use power.
the silica gel can also be dried if it has absorbed to much moisture.
Im also very impressed by how quick you picked up the machining you are doing.
a few weeks ago i had exams for which is passed and it now makes me a professional machinist :)
Keep it up!
I'll go out on a limb here and declare this: the best build series on yt at the moment.
I must say its impressive that you keep chipping away at these projects, at the rate you do. Despite the naysaying and arm chair quarterbacking you often get.
Good work man, In the day of the electric vehicle push. Its great to see people like you still pushing to learn, and innovate mechanical designs.
Very nice work Alex, I had many days where everything went to shit, man bud, your work has come along way, my friend told me to by tooling instead of parts, once I have the tooling you can do anything. Keep up the good work, been watching your channel for years, looking forward to the next video.
You should either get a vice, or clamp for when you're drilling stuff. I get scared, and anxiety everytime I see you drill something without clamping it down
I think he has multiple vices, but setting up takes take
I feel I have more control with the part "floating" have suffered the occasional bite though.
PETG works best at 240-250 degrees with a relatively low feed rate due to the viscoscity. Too high it can clog, too low and you can get under-extrusion due to feed slipping and poor layer adhesion.
I find that it works better with bigger nozzles too (probably due to viscoscity). A 0.6mm nozzle with a 0.1mm layer height is much nicer than a 0.4mm nozzle with a 0.15mm layer height in terms of overhangs and layer adhesion.
That said, have you considered just using ABS and using acetone to clean the mould?
man just looking at that sleeve I'm thinking "woah that is going to be a high RPM beast!"
Awesome work Alex.
Legend in the making
Larger vents to allow venting when the alloy is poured, the mold still had molten plastic in the bottom of the investment mold preventing the alloy flowing threw.
Wicked progress in this video!!! Great job!!!
Really looking forward to test run, with the blower 🤟🤟 its going to be epic!!
If you use a phenolic gasket to insulate heat, then the PETG parts should be plenty good enough.
Also, it seems your biggest enemy is rushing, i know the struggle myself hahah
To mount this shape in the lathe you have to measure it in both ends. There are many videos of that on youtube the way you do it is can cause errors. Greatings.
👍 I did indicate both ends.
@@2STROKESTUFFING Great!
Wouldn't cutting flanges on the cnc and welding pipes be easier than casting the runners?
Just bending the pipes would be more practical I think
Great watching and progress
when printing PETG you should run atleast 240C nozzle and also print slower than PLA ! ive had ur exact problem with PETG. it really doesnt like being pushed out too fast through the nozzle. i print PLA at 40-60 mm/s and PETG at 25-40 mm/s. hope this helps
Thanks for the tip!
Glad to see you finally got a press.
Better late than never.
😁👍 Can't believe I went so long without one.
Another terrific video my only complaint I wish they were longer I guess that's because I enjoy your videos so much
Oh no. Not another Scandinavian with a hydraulic press...
15:25 be careful with bent rotary valves. When rebuilding Trabant-Engines (which have rotary valves too), it is crucial that they are perfectly flat so they can seal properly. In that case, the rotary valves control the inlet though... I don't know if it makes a huge difference when the exhaust port doesn't seal 100%. Just wanted to tell you. Love your vids man, greetings from Germany!
Thanks! I think it'll be fine on the exhaust side👍
that makes sense on the intake of an engine but since a 2 stroke is normaly always open i think a somewhat not perfect seal will still be fine.
@@seanbarton8852 yep, will still be a massive restriction.
thanks god lol i was watching swearing and cursing "your ment to be building a precision piece of engerneering and ya bashing it with a f$%ing hammer and block of wood??? Get a pre.....thanks the 2stroke GODS YES JUST YES" my house mate thinks in nuts :P keep up the good work
I can't tell if you're insulting or complementing him😂
@@davonmulder8458 lol i wasnt sure either at the time hahaha
Awesome update!
CF (or glass fiber) Nylon/PA would be great for those 3d printed parts. Can be printed on the ender 3 without an enclosure, just a metal hot end, and an abrasion-resistant nozzle. I'd recommend Dyze, because they offer tungsten carbide nozzles.
That press makes me so happy for you
I modified my pipe bender into a short throw press ,does what i need at the moment
Worlds most powerful 2-stroke! Just thought id throw that out there 😊
“Measure with a micrometer, cut it with a chainsaw, beat it to fit, paint it to match.”
Did you ever study the Kreidler motor and design ? As they are still the 50 cc top speed holders today , some 40 + years later !
Glad to see you finally got a press
Anxiety overload when I watched that sleeve go in and get stuck lolol
Cool project and great work!
hey alex my friends call me round .from smokey mountians georgia usa . love your music .nice to meet you. keep up the good work
For id boring the tool needs to be slightly above center, that way when the bar flexes, it falls away from the material and does not gouge into the cut.
Great tip, thanks! It would pull itself in a lot if I cut on the way out, not too bad feeding in.
@@2STROKESTUFFING No matter the feed direction, It's below center external and above center internal. Just slightly however. You are a genius I think!
Ive been running all of my petg prints at like 250° and almost no cooling fan with .25-.30 layer height
Great video man! Looking forward to the next one
Nice work. FYI- If you want to be as precise as possible and be sure your bore is concentric with the OD of a part in the lathe; you have to indicate in two places on the OD of the cylinder (farther apart the better) or you could indicate in the face of the part if it's good and perpendicular. This is because the part can be rotating off-axis and still indicate good in one spot along the OD. ATB
Thanks! I indicated several points of camera 👍
Grande, anche se con qualche problema da superare, bellissimo lavoro.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇮🇹🖐️
There is Nylon with carbon fiber. I am using this and it is amazing. Your Ender 3 will print this filament if you install a bi-metal heat break and a hardened nozzle. It will change your life.
Very clever Alex
Either your tolerances are a little bit to tight or your freezer is not freezing enough. Normally when thermal fitting is employed parts should slide in without any effort but liquid nitrogen is used.
Combo of both I think.
You’re a legend Alex, please keep going!
When i cast all the aluminum parts in the 2 stroke rc builds. I used 3d printed parts as well lol! I found a hand sander that vibrates is the boss to release all the air on larger casting molds! Have you tried wax printing filament yet? Really is easy to clean out of you mold
Estou torcendo muito por você desde o Brasil. continue esse belo traballhao. parabéns!!!
Well done showing what can go wrong.
👍 Had I just waited ~6hrs or so I think the casting might have turned out. Have to give it another go.
HI , AMZING JOB, REGARDS Laurent from France