hello John, thank you for your video and bubbly personality. i am a 23 year old jewellery maker, that is just starting to transition from wire wrapping to soldering elements to my pieces. thank you for your informative video
What a delightful and informative video! I've been avoiding taking the plunge into soldering but your videos made it look less intimidating and more fun 😊 please never change!
Hi Tama, Glad you enjoyed the video. I've used your resurfacing technique in the past. But, don't forget to wash the sidewalk off when you're done. Thanks for your support! : )
Thank you for this information, and thanks especially for writing the names of the blocks in the description - as English is not my mother tongue, it's sometimes difficult to catch the terms from speech
Sooo helpful! I’ve been wanting to solder and anneal and dabble with all this stuffs but was so overwhelmed with what to use and esp what surface to do it on! So many vids cover all the other stuff but not this piece. Thank you thank you thank you! For the record, I couldn’t make a decent wire wrapped loop until stumbling onto one of your vids, always oh so helpful and amusing to boot! :)
I had a lovely surprise in the post this morning: a beautiful badge and a 'Thank You' card from you! I'm happy to help support you through Patreon: I wish I could give more because I've learned so much from you over the last couple of years. Watching your videos is like meeting an old friend for coffee: I look forward to watching you for many more years to come, Lynette x
Awe Lynette, thank you so much for the kind words. I'm so glad that you are enjoying the OJA's videos while you learn the craft of jewelry making. Thank you for your support! : )
Hi MissNana 1969, I've never come across a pumice block. The only pumice I've ever used in my studio is the small pieces contained in my annealing pan. Pumice is great to anneal on top of because it really doesn't react to your metal and reflects back some of the heat. I assume that jewelry supply companies don't sell pumice blocks because they would break easily. Plus, they would be prone to scratching your work. My favorite surface to solder on is a hardened compressed charcoal block. Thanks for your support! : )
Hi John. You mentioned in the video you can resurface the solderite board under water with sandpaper. I am assuming to wear a respirator while doing so? Any other tips you have on this? Thanks :)
Is the kiln shelf the same as the kiln block/brick? What is the best for a specific kind of work, as in best to use charcoal for.... and better to use the mag block for ......with examples? Please! PS. LOVE, love, love the out-takes, great!
Hi Gabby, The kiln shelf is actually a uniform sheet of fired ceramic. The fire brick is a softer material used to line electric kilns. Like Tama Smith said, the charcoal block is the perfect match for your silver soldering because of its ability to create a reduction environment. The lack of Oxygen that the charcoal creates helps to keep your work clean. The magnesia block will work with any type of metal. And it behaves a lot like charcoal. But, you can poke wires in it to help make connections. For example, you can poke the wires that will become your prongs around a base to make a basket setting for a stone. Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for your support! : )
Gabby Flying Chef Hi Gabby. Iv'e been using the Vermiculite boards for 30 years and they can last for many years if you take care of them. Firescale is a big problem though especially when soldering Stg Silver. It's very difficult to get rid of properly, takes lots of time and will wear/polish away finer details of your finished piece. Go for the charcoal blocks imo. I'm definitely getting one in my next order.
Another informative video, I use insulating fire bricks (about the size of a house brick) probably most similar to the magnesium block, they seem to last forever charcoal especially the hard version are expensive for the amount of use you get out of them
The charcoal blocks can be pricey. But, they really do help to keep your work clean and free of excessive oxidation. The fire bricks are really a great inexpensive tool. Thanks for your comment. Thanks for your support! : )
You cracked me up with that wig. A pizza stone is pretty good to solder on and I have found an iron plate is good because when it gets hot solder flows nice.
The pizza stone is essentially a ceramic kiln shelf. You can work safely on it. But it will suck up a lot of heat before you can get your solder to flow. The iron plate will reflect heat into your work. But, it will get really hot. So, you might want to support that on your pizza stone. I generally use an iron surface to help items cool quickly. Thanks for your support! : )
OnlineJewelryAcademy The man himself, what an honor! The work I do is more industrial, I restore antique metal art objects and make reproductions of metal art objects, some of these things get pretty big. I make jewelry on my own as a hobby and found that if I work on a slab of iron that is hot the piece I was working on got preheated by the iron and the solder flowed nice. I thought that if I worked on an iron plate with an electric stove coil underneath it warming the iron plate that might be the ultimate surface to silver solder on. I'm getting ready to retire from my regular job and take a crack at creative metal work on my own. I subscribed to your channel, you are a wealth of information. Thanks.
Hi Nelson X, I'm glad you're enjoying the videos and that you've become a subscriber. There are lots of ways to work to get the job done. I just try to promote safety so were all around a lot longer to create beauty in the world. Thanks for your support! : )
Wow! You just answered my question. I have a ceramic pizza plate and wondered if the heat would magnify or pull away, so I have not used it yet. Is your ceramic?
Hi John! thanks so much for all your amazing helpful videos! What is your opinion on using annealing pans with pumice? Also wondering how often would the pumice need to be replaced? Thank you :)
I love annealing pans filled with pumice. As long as you only use them for annealing, they virtually can last forever. Don't perform soldering operations over them. Or one day you might find a blob of solder stuck to surface that you intended to keep clean. Thanks for your support! : )
What happens when you use a charcoal block or other soldering surface on top of them? I know we did that in the jewelry class I had in design school, but I never fully understood what was actually happening. It was also with a mixed gas torch, of course, although I don't recall which gas it was. (Scared the crap out of me, but I digress :-) )
I just happened to notice that you posted a follow-up comment. There is no advantage to placing a charcoal block on top of your annealing pan. As I said in my previous comment, you're just asking for solder to migrate into the pumice only to reappear when you least want it to. If you need to raise the height of a charcoal block, you can place it on top of a variety of things other than your annealing pan. Thanks for your support! : )
HA! You can thank my business partner, Don, for including those bloopers. Thank goodness he doesn't edit in some of my cranky moments. LOL. Thanks for your support! : )
I had trouble finding heat resistant surfaces in Montreal, so I followed the DIY approach instead. I used recipe of the king of random for his foundary:50% plaster of Paris and 50% sand. It gives a heat resistant surface but it does soak up heat and does not reflect heat very much. But it is cheap and can be molded in any shape like a brick, crucible, etc. Adding some furnace cement to the mix made it less porous and last longer.
Hi Thomas, I admire your resourcefulness. But, I would be hesitant to work on a plaster of paris surface. That material is notorious for popping when heated. That's also why I would never work on ordinary bricks or cinder blocks. That's for sharing your comment. Thanks for your support! : )
Personally, I would invest my time in making jewelry rather than making ceramic honeycomb soldering blocks. But, if you feel like trying to do it, I'm sure that there is another channel or blog with instructions. Have fun! : )
OnlineJewelryAcademy it was just a question. Since I have the kiln and some clay. :) and want to make useful items rather than the standard ceramic wares.
The OJA has a number of videos included in its playlist that show how to make jewelry from copper washers. We even have a video on how to accurately make copper washers using a disc cutter. You can find our complete playlist organized by category at: www.onlinejewelryacademy.com. All the videos are free. 😀
It is possibile to have a complete List the soldering surface that you show here?I'm bag you pardon but, my English is Not so good and I have a bit difficult in a comprehension. . :(
The surfaces included in the video are: Hardened/compressed charcoal, Honeycomb, Fire Brick, Solderite Board and Magnesia. You might want to invest in a basic jewelry making book in your language to help you with the terminology. Thanks for your support! : )
Hi Renee, I never leave my bench without making sure that my charcoal block is quenched and cold. I don't want to burn the studio down or waste my money buying new charcoal blocks. Just be sure not to try soldering on a wet charcoal block. The steam you create will blow out your torch. Thanks for your support! : )
OnlineJewelryAcademy thanks! Do you actually submerge it? I've seen people in videos just spray them with a water bottle? I'm so new at this and have so many questions but I'm learning alot on your channel & appreciate all the valuable information!
I actually use a squirt bottle that is on my bench and just squirt the block. As a matter of fact I tend to use that to quench my work a lot of times as well. It's just easy and I am a lazy jeweler lol.
You'll see that the block will "steam" after you squirt it. If you're worried try it again in a few minutes. It shouldn't steam any longer if it's been quenched properly. :)
question for someone... most of my pieces are sticking to my magnesia block and ripping small chuncks of it off when I lift the piece up. am I doing something wrong or could it be because it was a cheap-o one from Amazon?
You're not doing anything wrong. That's just the way that magnesia blocks behave. If you don't need to push pieces into a block to solder them, switch to a hardened charcoal block. There are also soft soldering boards that won't wear out as quickly. : )
I would like to know what would be best for heavy and high temperature soldering, I work copper and sometimes 20 ga and sometimes so sweat solder from under on a metal grid but metal turns red (I suspect it absorbs the heat away from my copper piece and solder) so it doesn't work... Help!
A steel mesh will grab energy away from your work. I recommend that you try soldering your work either on fire bricks or ceramic honeycombs. Both of these surfaces work well with large soldering operations where hard solder is being used. Good luck with your creative pursuits. Thanks for your support! : )
Well, it's hard to say without seeing what you're soldering. But, if you need a large surface that will reflect heat and quickly dissipate it when you're done soldering the options I suggested should work best. You can contact me through the OJA website with pics if you want to show me what you are trying to troubleshoot. www.onlinejewelryacademy.com
actually it's a copper belt buckle, 2 pieces, back piece is plain 18 ga copper, the top piece is a 22 ga cut out (wolf howling at the moon) So I tried putting solder on the thinner piece (melting it a bit) then put it on the thicker piece for sweat soldering, on the grid... didn't work, copper turned red but the solder never melted, and the grid was bright red. I know it can be done but not sure how! I will show you the pics on the site then !
After looking at the photo of your work I realize that this video is the one you need to watch: th-cam.com/video/49kf8vHuTFs/w-d-xo.html Placing the backing plate of your buckle on risers above a charcoal surface should help you to achieve the temperature you need to have your solder flow. Good luck! Thanks for your support! : )
Surfaces made entirely of asbestos exist. But they are either antiques or specialized pieces of equipment. In many homes asbestos can be found in vinyl flooring, roof shingles and exterior stucco. I hope that helps. 😀
@@ghanshyamjagada6643 You need to have the object tested for asbestos. I would not be able to make a determination based merely on a photo. Good luck 🍀
Glad you're enjoying the videos. By the way, you would not believe some of the hair failures that I've witnessed working with other jewelers. Pulling your long loose hair back is a must. Thanks for your support! : )
I generally use two types of torches in the videos. One is a small butane fueled torch that I purchased online for about $50. The other is a MAPP gas torch from a local hardware store. Thanks for your support! : )
Glad you enjoyed the video. A detailed discussion of the virtues of various soldering surfaces could get very tedious. So, the OJA added a little spice to the mix to help keep you watching. Thanks for your support! : )
No worries, Prof John. I'm getting one of those lazy susan turntables to mount a kiln shelf onto. I currently use a small pottery wheel but it sits quite high on my work surface and your idea of putting a kiln shelf onto a lazy susan base using velcro is great :-)
Hi. If you need lots of heat for a cuff, so using honey comb is suggested, yet more heat on the peace means more firescale. So often I don't see online teachers using a firescale preventive on silver in every demo. Shouldn't it be mentioned on all demos, not just some.
I really would like more information about preventing firescale. I am a beginner and have several simple silver sheet projects which end up revealing firescale after polished! I laminate my own silver sheets because I do not live in a developed country and I have to anneal many times. Is annealing causing firescale? Is putting the sheet flat on the block also contributing?
Hey Huskyfluffy, We haven't heard from you in a while. Everybody hates firescale: including me. I personally don't work with firescale inhibitors. I find that they really don't do a great job of preventing it. But, we all have different paths to success. If you have good results with the inhibitors, keep using them. As far as mentioning them in every video goes though, it's hard to fit the kitchen sink in to every short video. I generally tell students to get in and out with the heat as quickly as possible to avoid firescale build up on their work. Thanks for your feedback. Thanks for your support! : )
Hi MssNana 1969, Firescale develops on sterling silver when it is exposed to the heat from a torch. You can use a firescale inhibitor to help reduce the amount of fire scale on your piece. But, you can't totally avoid it. Annealing your work on a charcoal block should actually help to reduce the amount of oxidation your piece acquires. This is because of the reduction environment that combusting charcoal creates. Thanks for your support! : )
Are there only 7 of us Patreon supporters? Holy cow! That's DISPICABLE for how many viewers there are! I'm severely embarrased for all those. They are probably the ones who listen to public radio ALL THE TIME, and never donate! Shame, shame, shame!
hello John, thank you for your video and bubbly personality. i am a 23 year old jewellery maker, that is just starting to transition from wire wrapping to soldering elements to my pieces. thank you for your informative video
What a delightful and informative video! I've been avoiding taking the plunge into soldering but your videos made it look less intimidating and more fun 😊 please never change!
I’m happy to hear that the video inspired you to try soldering Aiesha. Thanks for watching! 😀
Thank you for the Informative Video John. Another method we use to clean up old soldering blocks is to go outside and rub them on the concrete.
Hi Tama, Glad you enjoyed the video. I've used your resurfacing technique in the past. But, don't forget to wash the sidewalk off when you're done.
Thanks for your support! : )
Thank you for this information, and thanks especially for writing the names of the blocks in the description - as English is not my mother tongue, it's sometimes difficult to catch the terms from speech
You're so welcome. Glad you found the video and its description helpful. Thanks for watching! 😀
I haven't seen this discussed anywhere else. Very basic but super useful practical information. Thanks a lot!!!
I'm glad that you enjoyed the video.
Thanks for your support! : )
Sooo helpful! I’ve been wanting to solder and anneal and dabble with all this stuffs but was so overwhelmed with what to use and esp what surface to do it on! So many vids cover all the other stuff but not this piece. Thank you thank you thank you! For the record, I couldn’t make a decent wire wrapped loop until stumbling onto one of your vids, always oh so helpful and amusing to boot! :)
Thanks for the compliments Sara. We're glad that you're enjoying the videos. Good luck with your dabbling. No doubt you'll make some great things. 😀
Thank you so much for giving us all these useful informations for free. Really amazing👍
Glad you’re enjoying the videos. Thanks for watching! 🙂
I had a lovely surprise in the post this morning: a beautiful badge and a 'Thank You' card from you! I'm happy to help support you through Patreon: I wish I could give more because I've learned so much from you over the last couple of years. Watching your videos is like meeting an old friend for coffee: I look forward to watching you for many more years to come, Lynette x
Awe Lynette, thank you so much for the kind words. I'm so glad that you are enjoying the OJA's videos while you learn the craft of jewelry making.
Thank you for your support! : )
Hi John, this is very nice you do addressing all kind of subjects in jewelry making. I wonder what about using pumice blocks as soldering surface.
Hi MissNana 1969, I've never come across a pumice block. The only pumice I've ever used in my studio is the small pieces contained in my annealing pan. Pumice is great to anneal on top of because it really doesn't react to your metal and reflects back some of the heat. I assume that jewelry supply companies don't sell pumice blocks because they would break easily. Plus, they would be prone to scratching your work. My favorite surface to solder on is a hardened compressed charcoal block.
Thanks for your support! : )
Thank you very much. I will try to find one here
Not only informative but made me laugh too, the wig part cracked me up as did the lil outtake at the end. ;-)
I'm glad to learn that the OJA could make you laugh while teaching you something. Keep coming back for more fun videos.
Thanks for your support! : )
Hi John. You mentioned in the video you can resurface the solderite board under water with sandpaper. I am assuming to wear a respirator while doing so? Any other tips you have on this? Thanks :)
If you do the resurfacing under water, you do not need to wear a mask. Be sure that you allow the board to dry thoroughly before you use it. 😀
Is the kiln shelf the same as the kiln block/brick? What is the best for a specific kind of work, as in best to use charcoal for.... and better to use the mag block for ......with examples? Please! PS. LOVE, love, love the out-takes, great!
Charcoal is good for sterling silver to help prevent fire-stain (Oxidisation)
Hi Gabby, The kiln shelf is actually a uniform sheet of fired ceramic. The fire brick is a softer material used to line electric kilns. Like Tama Smith said, the charcoal block is the perfect match for your silver soldering because of its ability to create a reduction environment. The lack of Oxygen that the charcoal creates helps to keep your work clean. The magnesia block will work with any type of metal. And it behaves a lot like charcoal. But, you can poke wires in it to help make connections. For example, you can poke the wires that will become your prongs around a base to make a basket setting for a stone. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Thanks for your support! : )
Gabby Flying Chef
Hi Gabby. Iv'e been using the Vermiculite boards for 30 years and they can last for many years if you take care of them. Firescale is a big problem though especially when soldering Stg Silver. It's very difficult to get rid of properly, takes lots of time and will wear/polish away finer details of your finished piece.
Go for the charcoal blocks imo. I'm definitely getting one in my next order.
Very helpful video.
Glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching! 😀
Another informative video, I use insulating fire bricks (about the size of a house brick) probably most similar to the magnesium block, they seem to last forever
charcoal especially the hard version are expensive for the amount of use you get out of them
The charcoal blocks can be pricey. But, they really do help to keep your work clean and free of excessive oxidation. The fire bricks are really a great inexpensive tool. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for your support! : )
thanks I really needed this!! 😍
I’m so glad you found what you needed. Thanks for watching! 😃
You cracked me up with that wig.
A pizza stone is pretty good to solder on and I have found an iron plate is good because when it gets hot solder flows nice.
The pizza stone is essentially a ceramic kiln shelf. You can work safely on it. But it will suck up a lot of heat before you can get your solder to flow. The iron plate will reflect heat into your work. But, it will get really hot. So, you might want to support that on your pizza stone. I generally use an iron surface to help items cool quickly.
Thanks for your support! : )
OnlineJewelryAcademy
The man himself, what an honor!
The work I do is more industrial, I restore antique metal art objects and make reproductions of metal art objects, some of these things get pretty big.
I make jewelry on my own as a hobby and found that if I work on a slab of iron that is hot the piece I was working on got preheated by the iron and the solder flowed nice. I thought that if I worked on an iron plate with an electric stove coil underneath it warming the iron plate that might be the ultimate surface to silver solder on.
I'm getting ready to retire from my regular job and take a crack at creative metal work on my own. I subscribed to your channel, you are a wealth of information. Thanks.
Hi Nelson X, I'm glad you're enjoying the videos and that you've become a subscriber. There are lots of ways to work to get the job done. I just try to promote safety so were all around a lot longer to create beauty in the world.
Thanks for your support! : )
Wow! You just answered my question. I have a ceramic pizza plate and wondered if the heat would magnify or pull away, so I have not used it yet. Is your ceramic?
Super useful info, thank you!
Glad you thought the information was useful. Thanks for your support. 😀
Hi John! thanks so much for all your amazing helpful videos! What is your opinion on using annealing pans with pumice? Also wondering how often would the pumice need to be replaced? Thank you :)
I love annealing pans filled with pumice. As long as you only use them for annealing, they virtually can last forever. Don't perform soldering operations over them. Or one day you might find a blob of solder stuck to surface that you intended to keep clean.
Thanks for your support! : )
What happens when you use a charcoal block or other soldering surface on top of them? I know we did that in the jewelry class I had in design school, but I never fully understood what was actually happening. It was also with a mixed gas torch, of course, although I don't recall which gas it was. (Scared the crap out of me, but I digress :-) )
I just happened to notice that you posted a follow-up comment. There is no advantage to placing a charcoal block on top of your annealing pan. As I said in my previous comment, you're just asking for solder to migrate into the pumice only to reappear when you least want it to. If you need to raise the height of a charcoal block, you can place it on top of a variety of things other than your annealing pan.
Thanks for your support! : )
Your bloopers made me joyous. xoxoxo
HA! You can thank my business partner, Don, for including those bloopers. Thank goodness he doesn't edit in some of my cranky moments. LOL.
Thanks for your support! : )
@@OnlineJewelryAcademy I think a compilation of your cranky moments might be a hoot as well!
John, what binding wire metal should be used on charcoal blocks? Does it matter?
This is a really helpful video; thanks!
Hi Wendy, It's best to use steel binding wire on your charcoal block. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Thanks for your support! : )
I had trouble finding heat resistant surfaces in Montreal, so I followed the DIY approach instead. I used recipe of the king of random for his foundary:50% plaster of Paris and 50% sand. It gives a heat resistant surface but it does soak up heat and does not reflect heat very much. But it is cheap and can be molded in any shape like a brick, crucible, etc. Adding some furnace cement to the mix made it less porous and last longer.
Hi Thomas, I admire your resourcefulness. But, I would be hesitant to work on a plaster of paris surface. That material is notorious for popping when heated. That's also why I would never work on ordinary bricks or cinder blocks. That's for sharing your comment.
Thanks for your support! : )
Hi, do you think the solderite board would hold up to a mapp gas torch?
Yes, it should hold up just fine. Just remember that all soldering surfaces need to be replaced from time to time. Stay safe. 😀
What is a good grit for tumbling copper and silver
Before you tumble copper and silver, it’s a good idea to sand the metal to at least a 400 grit. 😀
Hi, I have a kiln, can i make my own honeycomb ceramic block, you think? or does it take special coatings or special clay?
Personally, I would invest my time in making jewelry rather than making ceramic honeycomb soldering blocks. But, if you feel like trying to do it, I'm sure that there is another channel or blog with instructions. Have fun! : )
OnlineJewelryAcademy it was just a question. Since I have the kiln and some clay. :) and want to make useful items rather than the standard ceramic wares.
Thankyou for shering.
You’re welcome Mary-Ann. Thanks for watching!🙂
Can you make washers out of it for jewelry idea.
The OJA has a number of videos included in its playlist that show how to make jewelry from copper washers. We even have a video on how to accurately make copper washers using a disc cutter. You can find our complete playlist organized by category at: www.onlinejewelryacademy.com. All the videos are free. 😀
@@OnlineJewelryAcademy Thanks!!!
It is possibile to have a complete List the soldering surface that you show here?I'm bag you pardon but, my English is Not so good and I have a bit difficult in a comprehension. . :(
The surfaces included in the video are: Hardened/compressed charcoal, Honeycomb, Fire Brick, Solderite Board and Magnesia. You might want to invest in a basic jewelry making book in your language to help you with the terminology.
Thanks for your support! : )
there are no more good italian jewelry making books.. actually, there are NO one! XD
Thank you for all the great lnformation!
Glad you're enjoying the videos.
Thanks for your support! : )
I read that you have to quench your charcoal block or it will burn to dust. Is that true?
Yes, after soldering we have in the past had them continue burning. Unsure if it will burn entirely or not, so quenching would be a good idea
Hi Renee, I never leave my bench without making sure that my charcoal block is quenched and cold. I don't want to burn the studio down or waste my money buying new charcoal blocks. Just be sure not to try soldering on a wet charcoal block. The steam you create will blow out your torch.
Thanks for your support! : )
OnlineJewelryAcademy thanks! Do you actually submerge it? I've seen people in videos just spray them with a water bottle? I'm so new at this and have so many questions but I'm learning alot on your channel & appreciate all the valuable information!
I actually use a squirt bottle that is on my bench and just squirt the block. As a matter of fact I tend to use that to quench my work a lot of times as well. It's just easy and I am a lazy jeweler lol.
You'll see that the block will "steam" after you squirt it. If you're worried try it again in a few minutes. It shouldn't steam any longer if it's been quenched properly. :)
question for someone... most of my pieces are sticking to my magnesia block and ripping small chuncks of it off when I lift the piece up. am I doing something wrong or could it be because it was a cheap-o one from Amazon?
You're not doing anything wrong. That's just the way that magnesia blocks behave. If you don't need to push pieces into a block to solder them, switch to a hardened charcoal block. There are also soft soldering boards that won't wear out as quickly. : )
OnlineJewelryAcademy oh okay, rad!! thank you for answering my question and also for the great video content! 🤘🏼
Where can you buy magnesium bricks?
There is a link on the “Tools” page of the OJA’s website: www.onlinejewelryacademy.com 😀
@@OnlineJewelryAcademy thanks
I would like to know what would be best for heavy and high temperature soldering, I work copper and sometimes 20 ga and sometimes so sweat solder from under on a metal grid but metal turns red (I suspect it absorbs the heat away from my copper piece and solder) so it doesn't work... Help!
A steel mesh will grab energy away from your work. I recommend that you try soldering your work either on fire bricks or ceramic honeycombs. Both of these surfaces work well with large soldering operations where hard solder is being used. Good luck with your creative pursuits.
Thanks for your support! : )
thank you so much, but even for sweat solder, using a brick or ceramic honeycomb?
Well, it's hard to say without seeing what you're soldering. But, if you need a large surface that will reflect heat and quickly dissipate it when you're done soldering the options I suggested should work best. You can contact me through the OJA website with pics if you want to show me what you are trying to troubleshoot. www.onlinejewelryacademy.com
actually it's a copper belt buckle, 2 pieces, back piece is plain 18 ga copper, the top piece is a 22 ga cut out (wolf howling at the moon) So I tried putting solder on the thinner piece (melting it a bit) then put it on the thicker piece for sweat soldering, on the grid... didn't work, copper turned red but the solder never melted, and the grid was bright red. I know it can be done but not sure how! I will show you the pics on the site then !
After looking at the photo of your work I realize that this video is the one you need to watch: th-cam.com/video/49kf8vHuTFs/w-d-xo.html Placing the backing plate of your buckle on risers above a charcoal surface should help you to achieve the temperature you need to have your solder flow. Good luck!
Thanks for your support! : )
Love your wig!
Thank you! And, thanks for watching! 😀
I'm increasing my support, who needs to eat (that much)? I'm on a diet as of now!
Gabby, You are too funny. Thank you so much for being such a great cheerleader for the OJA.
We truly appreciate your support! : )
Do you think an aluminum heat sink from a computer could be repurposed as a tiny soldering block?
No. The melting temperature of aluminum is 1220 degrees F. It would melt. : )
Is any surface made of asbestos?
Surfaces made entirely of asbestos exist. But they are either antiques or specialized pieces of equipment. In many homes asbestos can be found in vinyl flooring, roof shingles and exterior stucco. I hope that helps. 😀
@@OnlineJewelryAcademy I want to show u a pic i doubt is asbestos..is it possible in youtube?
@@ghanshyamjagada6643 Sorry, it’s not possible.
@@OnlineJewelryAcademy do u have account in instagram?
@@ghanshyamjagada6643 You need to have the object tested for asbestos. I would not be able to make a determination based merely on a photo. Good luck 🍀
Thanks John. I love your tutorials. Oh! and don't solder with long loose hair. It can cause sudden baldness. Seriously ; )
Glad you're enjoying the videos. By the way, you would not believe some of the hair failures that I've witnessed working with other jewelers. Pulling your long loose hair back is a must.
Thanks for your support! : )
Hi sir which type of fir gunner u r using.
I'm sorry, but I don't understand your questions.
OnlineJewelryAcademy
Sir which type of soldring torch u are use..?
I generally use two types of torches in the videos. One is a small butane fueled torch that I purchased online for about $50. The other is a MAPP gas torch from a local hardware store.
Thanks for your support! : )
LMAO at the goofy stuff you added a the very end. Also, found the video very informative.
Glad you enjoyed the video. A detailed discussion of the virtues of various soldering surfaces could get very tedious. So, the OJA added a little spice to the mix to help keep you watching.
Thanks for your support! : )
Great! Thanks for posting :-)
Hi Hilary, Glad you enjoyed the video.
Thanks for your support! : )
No worries, Prof John. I'm getting one of those lazy susan turntables to mount a kiln shelf onto. I currently use a small pottery wheel but it sits quite high on my work surface and your idea of putting a kiln shelf onto a lazy susan base using velcro is great :-)
Thankyou
Hi Geoff, Glad you liked the video.
Thanks for your support! : )
Ok who put Rogaine into the charcoal blocks?!?
It's not Rogaine. I'm sorry to say it's just a wig. Hope you enjoyed the video.
Thanks for your support! : )
Hi. If you need lots of heat for a cuff, so using honey comb is suggested, yet more heat on the peace means more firescale. So often I don't see online teachers using a firescale preventive on silver in every demo. Shouldn't it be mentioned on all demos, not just some.
I really would like more information about preventing firescale. I am a beginner and have several simple silver sheet projects which end up revealing firescale after polished! I laminate my own silver sheets because I do not live in a developed country and I have to anneal many times. Is annealing causing firescale? Is putting the sheet flat on the block also contributing?
Hey Huskyfluffy, We haven't heard from you in a while. Everybody hates firescale: including me. I personally don't work with firescale inhibitors. I find that they really don't do a great job of preventing it. But, we all have different paths to success. If you have good results with the inhibitors, keep using them. As far as mentioning them in every video goes though, it's hard to fit the kitchen sink in to every short video. I generally tell students to get in and out with the heat as quickly as possible to avoid firescale build up on their work. Thanks for your feedback.
Thanks for your support! : )
Hi MssNana 1969, Firescale develops on sterling silver when it is exposed to the heat from a torch. You can use a firescale inhibitor to help reduce the amount of fire scale on your piece. But, you can't totally avoid it. Annealing your work on a charcoal block should actually help to reduce the amount of oxidation your piece acquires. This is because of the reduction environment that combusting charcoal creates.
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it's Gabriele, not Gabreile, BTW.
Love the hair Prof. John...RuPaul awaits...only joking lol!
That wig is more popular than I am. But my makeup and costume skills aren't drag race ready. Nor am I.
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I'm fully convinced that nobody owns a honeycomb ceramic plate that's not broken...
😂 I actually got a new one recently. They are easy to break.
Are there only 7 of us Patreon supporters? Holy cow! That's DISPICABLE for how many viewers there are! I'm severely embarrased for all those. They are probably the ones who listen to public radio ALL THE TIME, and never donate! Shame, shame, shame!