The Noble NB4+is amazing, give it a try. I can't imagine ever using again a radio with a fixed wheel position. I like mine around 15 degrees. The operation in general is fantastic
All of the aluminium parts on the second batch of B7s have been upgraded. The original aluminium part s where made of a very low quality 50 grade aluminium. The new parts are a much stronger 60 grade aluminium that doesnt deform from looking at it sideways. The C and D blocks are alao about 1mm thicker in diameter, giving them some more meat around the pill. Additionally, the front and rear inner hinge pins have been increased in length by about 1mm in the front, and 1.25mm in the rear. The whole reason for these changes is a wholistic approach to the problem with the C Block breakages. The issue was caused by the transmission casting having misaligned holes for the D Block mount, which allowed for the D block to skew. With the shorter hinge pins, this allowed the D block to become even more askew, which caused the left hand side to open up more than the right. This would then drop the hinge pin back into the D block pill an extra 1+mm, and the shorter hinge pin head would then sit proud in the front left C block pill. Putting the end of the hinge pin in alignment with the pill removal notch. So any amount of outward lateral force would leverage the forward tip of the inner hingepin right out through the thin material of the recess chamfer for the pill insert, and the pin would follow the path of least resistance, and blow right out of the C block notch. And if you still have your broken C Block on hand, you can see this plain as day, once you understand the failure mode. The newer parts remove all of this slop, make the D block fit more sqaure, preventing it from skewing, because the pins are fully engaged all the way in the pills. Add to thay the lack of a removal notch and the thicker stronger grade material, and it all makes for better durability, and accuracy. The rear end ia MUCH more tight and together than the original batch. And i would HIGHLY recommend anyone who runs a B7 to get these updated parts in the Front Bulkhead, and the C and B Blocks, along with the hinge pins. If yoi are unsure of the hingebpins being the new ones, AVID makes replacement pins thay are longer as well, and made of a higher grade of steel. Likewise the new front shock tower seema stronger, and the new tower cover uses the two screw design like the B6.3 and 6.4. The plaatics are alao uaing different injection and cooling cycles, which makes their tollerances tighter, and less prone to warping abd brittleness. All good changes...but lets be honest, the car should have been that way from day one.
Lots of great information for a beginner like me. Thanks 👍
Some really great points mate cheers for the video👍
As always a wonderful run through. I really appreciate all you share and I finally understand ’bump steer’ 😅
The Noble NB4+is amazing, give it a try. I can't imagine ever using again a radio with a fixed wheel position. I like mine around 15 degrees. The operation in general is fantastic
G'day mate i got team associated b7d i love it but uts not on the road or dirt yet.... love u channel bro.peace joe from Melbourne
nice 👌 i also dont upgrade unless its needed, subscribed 👌👍👍😀
All of the aluminium parts on the second batch of B7s have been upgraded. The original aluminium part s where made of a very low quality 50 grade aluminium. The new parts are a much stronger 60 grade aluminium that doesnt deform from looking at it sideways.
The C and D blocks are alao about 1mm thicker in diameter, giving them some more meat around the pill.
Additionally, the front and rear inner hinge pins have been increased in length by about 1mm in the front, and 1.25mm in the rear.
The whole reason for these changes is a wholistic approach to the problem with the C Block breakages.
The issue was caused by the transmission casting having misaligned holes for the D Block mount, which allowed for the D block to skew. With the shorter hinge pins, this allowed the D block to become even more askew, which caused the left hand side to open up more than the right. This would then drop the hinge pin back into the D block pill an extra 1+mm, and the shorter hinge pin head would then sit proud in the front left C block pill. Putting the end of the hinge pin in alignment with the pill removal notch. So any amount of outward lateral force would leverage the forward tip of the inner hingepin right out through the thin material of the recess chamfer for the pill insert, and the pin would follow the path of least resistance, and blow right out of the C block notch. And if you still have your broken C Block on hand, you can see this plain as day, once you understand the failure mode.
The newer parts remove all of this slop, make the D block fit more sqaure, preventing it from skewing, because the pins are fully engaged all the way in the pills. Add to thay the lack of a removal notch and the thicker stronger grade material, and it all makes for better durability, and accuracy. The rear end ia MUCH more tight and together than the original batch. And i would HIGHLY recommend anyone who runs a B7 to get these updated parts in the Front Bulkhead, and the C and B Blocks, along with the hinge pins. If yoi are unsure of the hingebpins being the new ones, AVID makes replacement pins thay are longer as well, and made of a higher grade of steel.
Likewise the new front shock tower seema stronger, and the new tower cover uses the two screw design like the B6.3 and 6.4.
The plaatics are alao uaing different injection and cooling cycles, which makes their tollerances tighter, and less prone to warping abd brittleness.
All good changes...but lets be honest, the car should have been that way from day one.
So do you manage with just the two Lipos for a race day?
Yes
BANZAI!!!