I'm sorry (man, I really do) that I'm not totally agreeing with you, but this is what yt SHOULD be about. It became a portal for promoting stupidity now around the whole planet. Ads over ads, sometimes yootoob even threatens users for not watching the crappy commercials they are forcing on us. I'm not complaining more, thumbs up on your comment.
I watched your video maybe a week ago. Just this morning, I finally got around to doing this to two Logitech Harmony 650 Remotes. I already had graphite power and a q-tip on hand, so why not? Both remotes had keys that were flaky or wouldn't work at all. Your solution was easy to do. Now my remotes are working like they are factory fresh. Kudos on a great video! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Electronics technician with 48 years in the industry here. The common cause of the buttons losing sensitivity is that the silicone absorbs skin oils and these oils act as insulation on the pads and tracks. If you look at the tracks under the pads that are least sensitive , you will see the oily residue. You can clean the tracks and pads with alcohol for a short term fix but the pads will exude more of the oil that is within the silicone. A longer term fix is to soak the whole key pad sheet in Fuelite (Petroleum Spirit) Fuelite is the main ingredient in CRC Contact Cleaner (in fact it is the only ingredient). Use liquid Fuelite to do this , not Contact Cleaner because you have to immerse the silicone sheet. Soak the sheet for 5 minutes , it will swell a little , let it dry thoroughly and it will return to normal dimension. While the silicone has still some absorbed Fuelite in it , it will be easily torn so treat it carefully. Then reassemble the device. This fix should last several months depending on the state of the silicone sheet
All you have to do is run the carbon part along a sheet of clean white A4 paper. Same thing. The A4 will absorb the oil and clean the carbon at the same time.
I agree the problem is the oil that comes off the button but I doubt it comes from the oil in the skin It's just part of the membrane and the oil just oozes out after time and pressing The question is how do you stop the oil from coming out So far I have not seen anyone that has an answer to this All of these fixes are temporary The main thing is that is difficult to clean well the membrane and the contact I tried alcohol which seems to clean it but after it dries the pads still feel sticky so I have to clean it a few more times same thing with the membrane it feels a little oil still coming out after it is cleaned with alcohol So I bought a roll of aluminum foil with adhesive on one side and just cut small pieces and place them over the membranes That will last as long as any other method I have seen maybe a couple of years or until the membrane gets so oily that the foil falls off so than I just try to clean it and place a new foil and works again I was thinking of using conductive silver paint I am just not sure how long it will last as the oil under it I imagine it would make the paint not stick after a while
@@stts762 The oil is only present on the buttons that are pressed and the more a button is used the more oily it gets. If it was just coming from the material , it would be present on all buttons. Aside from that , oil is not used in silicones
@@PaulG.x I understand your logic but I doubt it comes from the oil from the skin I seriously doubt that oil passes through silicone otherwise there would be oil all around not just on the black rubbery part I think the rubber just disintegrates over time and repeated pressing If it was just oil from the skin it would be easy to clean up with soap and water This is more like a gummy sticky residue that is hard to clean even with alcohol
95% of remotes are exactly like this. The other 5% use pressure sprung buttons (like newer TCL TV's etc) - like ancient Atari 2600 controller pad buttons from the 1970's.
@@pescado99 With time these type of contacts they will eventually need this servicing periodically it seems. I thought about how it could be made a more permanent contact surface and probably the only material that wouldn't wear off and give long service would be gold as any other material would tarnish with time. This would also make them very expensive. Hmm. The things you learn about in life. Very interesting. Thanks again.
There is a commercial solution for this problem. I have no idea where I bought it: Its called "KeyPad-Fix". It is basically a flexible, conductive paint that is formulated to stick to the pads of a membrane keypad. Your idea is a much easier to get solution, everyone has pencils, but the stuff I have makes a much longer lasting repair. Thanks for making this video! Sometimes, the easy fix is all that is needed. I have vintage electronic devices with that type of keypad, but most people don't need that level of repair for their devices.
_"There is a commercial solution for this problem"_ I've got that _"commercial solution Made in the USA"_ by my side and I gotta say it's quite mediocre solution that in some cases *won't work at all.* I have a Casio Privia PX-3 digital piano in which a keyboard is made of 4 contact pad PCBA segments one of which started catastrophically failing at some stage due to probably some malfunction occurred during contact pad manufacturing process. In other words multiple cracks started appearing all over the contact array making the electrical circuit unable to be closed. I applied the commercial solution from the above and it last just a few minutes as it's basically just a paint that eventually will crack and fall off due to mechanical stress applied. So I just replaced the faulty PCBA segment with a brand new one like 7 years ago and so far so good. So the commercial solution is rather a cowboy method than a proper approach to repair.
@@MSM5500 thanks for telling us about this. I have never had the problem with cracked pads, so all the repairs I have done have worked pretty well. I did clean the pads with IP alcohol first. A couple times, when the pad loked very smooth, I used a little 200 grit sandpaper to prep the surface of the pad before applying the paint. I think that how well the repair paint sticks to the pad may have something to do with the composition of the pad. Different formulations may be easier for the paint to adhere to. That and surface preparation may account for the paint peeling off. In the end, though the paint is not 100% effective, it provides a good enough solution to fix many devices.
Recently revived a Siemens DEST phone. It had the same problem. There is a graphite-based glue for repairing the rear window heating of a car. I used it. Silver glue was also on sale, but it was much more expensive... The result is excellent... Greetings from Russia.
The work space! - priceless! Just like mine, a complete mess - the comment about putting the screws somewhere safe - yep, just plonk them right in the middle of the mess - had me in stiches! It even has my good pair of spectacles dumped in the middle of things that I replace with magnifying reading glasses when I'm doing electronics LOL! BUT - the theme of the video is excellent. My story, just a week before I saw this video - my wife dropped the remote in the dog's water bowl (yeah, I know, don't ask). I didn't know that had happened until I see a large plastic container on the kitchen bench full of rice.....I ask "what's with the rice?" and she says "it's sucking up all the water out of the remote - according TH-cam this is the best way to do it". I laughed, dug up the remote, which was now also filled with some grains of rice (yes, she thoughtfully took the batteries out but didn't replace the cover), and then pulled it apart and proceeded to empty all the water (and rice grains) out and dry it. What amazed me was the amount of crap (I guess food crumbs, and a few dog hairs and tiny bits of fluff) in under and around the buttons, including some metal ones stuck on to the usual rubbery membrane. I used an old toothbrush and cleaned all the buttons and surfaces - I didn't know about the graphite tip - THANKS! - and dried all the bits out thoroughly. I put it back to together and gave it back to my wife...... an hour later she said "what did you do to the remote? it's working brilliantly now, and all the buttons are working!" LOL. So yeah, I can totally recommend giving any remote a good clean if there are "performance issues", particularly if it doesn't work underwater or in a grain silo LOL. The graphite tip is super useful.
I'm loving this gentle pocking! OK, that's it, I'm cleaning my work bench.... just as soon as the next project is done (Sony amp repair, Nakamichi tape deck, Yamaha subwoofer. phew....) ;-O
I've had problems with the keypads on my domestic alarm system for a couple of years. I was unable to source a direct replacement at any price but after coming across your video, and already having some graphite powder that I use for lubrication door locks, I followed your advice this morning. Keypads work like new again. Thank you so much.
Usually - eventually after enough pushing, the graphite power leaves a graphite imprint on the contacts side of the board, which can lead to short circuit and intermittent auto-button activation issues. There is something called graphit 33 which has worked best for me for longer term - without the imprint issue.
I always cut tiny squares of aluminum foil, glued them to the pads and that really seems to last. It's very fiddly tho and your method seems way more convenient. I'll be giving it a shot next time.
Just tried this on a Sony TV remote and....wow! What a difference, before some keys barely worked, now the responsiveness is better than it has ever been. I have control of all things from my armchair again, the power is intoxicating.
Worked wonders on my old key fob. Thank you! It was driving me crazy not being able to use it. Worst part is unlocking the car manually with the key has a 50/50 chance of setting the car alarm off for some reason.
For a long lasting solution I suggest Ted Pella 16056 Carbon Conductive Paint, DAG-T-502 available in 30g bottle. I’m not sure about the availability of smaller quantities. It’s used for electron microscopy to prevent charging in samples by being extremely conductive. It soaks into the carbon disks and dries quickly. I still let it dry overnight for best results. I’ve used this on several synthesizer keyboards and remotes. It does not flake off.
I was inspired by your fix-it and went out to my local art supply shop and bought the softest graphite pencil I could find (I think 9B is the softest, but I could only find 8B). Worked like a charm! Thanks so much for taking the time to do this 🖖
Really great tip! I would have guessed that the graphite powder would fly around inside and contaminate everything. But it looks like it doesn't at all, it just sticks where it's supposed to. Betting it's because of the application method with the q-tip. Thanks for this!!
It will. Eventually - it leaves an imprint on the contact side - after enough button pressing, and automatic short circuits can occur. graphit 33 works better.
Wow man, thank you so much...seriously, i had no idea how to fix a remote like that. I tried cleaning with ipa and didn't know what to think or why it still wasn't working. You are awesome dude. Thanks
Great video. A supplementary note - pencil graphite is a mixture of clay & carbon. The softer the pencil grade, the more carbon, but none are pure carbon.
Always clean the board. The buttons give off a residue like grease. You can literally wash the button membrane in warm water and dish soap but rinse thoroughly and dry with a hairdryer for speed. Do the board with switch cleaner or neat alcohol, just not anything that leaves anything behind. I've repaired hundreds and I don't dawb graphite on the pips, as I call them. problem pips can be roughed up with very fine sandpaper. A little brush over a few times will get to fresh carbon.
Great video - thanks! I keep a small container of graphite around for lubricating locks - its cheap and lasts for ages if anyone was wondering. All hardware stores have it or buy it online.
What a great idea, Mate. I've cleaned numerous remotes in the past and still they didn't work, due to being badly worn. This will extend the life of them. Cheers.
@@channelsixtyseven067 if the remote was cleaned sooner the contact would not need refurbishing usually cleaning the sticky stuff of the contacts would bring it to life . Some people start tapping the remote and that will crack the circuitry some times fine wire and solder brings back life. Have cleaned 100s of them with soap and water and tuner cleaner
@@clarencefoster7689 One of my own remotes was just plain worn out, a cheap generic remote that came with a Yamaha table-top hifi system. It was always kept clean, but constant use just wore away the contact pads. I got a replacement .... ridiculously expensive, though. I've kept the old one, so I've got to try refurbishing it. Yes, I've used the same cleaning methods you have, but sometimes, they are too far gone.
@@ClarenceFoster-h7n That depends on other people giving me their remotes. I keep my own remotes clean, not allowing food or drink anywhere near them with cling wrap and handle them with clean hands, Prevention is better than cure.
When I noticed that the problem was on the rubber I just used what have in hands, aluminum tape, small pieces cut with scissor and placed in every button, never got problems again.
As a very wealthy man once told me, "If a man washes his car in the week there is something wrong with his business, and if he washes his car at the week-end there is something wrong with his marriage!" (I am sure work-benches can also be included here) Thank you and respect to you. 😉👍🇬🇧
The core of the pencil is graphite mixed with paraffin. You can burn off this wax and the residue should be of pure graphite and carbon. Never heard of clay used in pencils, well the world is vast.
Cheers for the this technique I'll give it a go on my TV remote which has a slow to react main control button. Bonus I already have graphite powder 4 lubricating locks.
Great tip for fixing remote controls, it will be interesting to see how long it lasts, and whether graphite transfer can lead to shorting the button contacts or other components over time. I will try it myself, there’s little to lose when the remote isn’t working anymore. I wouldn’t recommend harvesting graphite from a 2B pencil. Pencils contain graphite bound together with clay, the more clay, the harder the pencil. So a 2H has more clay than HB, which has more than a 2B etc. Even a very soft 6B pencil contains a significant amount of clay. 2B pencils may contain enough graphite to be conductive, but you’re far better off using pure graphite. Using pencils as a graphite source in many other contexts (such as lubricating locks/keys) is not recommended, because the clay acts as an abrasive over time.
Wow, i never knew that, but it makes perfect sense as to what could possibly be able to hold soft graphite together and is able to make it so useful, because when you think about it, surely pure harvested graphite alone would never hold its shape well enough to be made into a pencil, let alone, hold its shape while enough force is used to actually use it as a writing implement. thank you very much for sharing this important information. Hmm... i wonder if thats why theyre called lead...the combination of graphite and clay...i mean...certainly it doesn't actually contain lead right?. Probably a dumb thing to ponder. Lol
@@majinkakashi20 There is no lead in ‘lead’ pencils and there never has been. When mineral deposits of graphite were first found, in the 1500s, it was thought to be a form of lead, and it was quickly recognised that it was useful for making marks/writing. The mineral was called plumbago, from the Latin for lead, plumbum. It was later discovered that the mineral plumbago was a form of carbon, graphite, but writing the name ‘lead’ stuck for the graphite writing stylus and later the pencil.
Now that's an idea.... rub a piece of soft pure lead Pb on the pad directly to transfer the metal. In the past I have had success doing this with a very soft pencil but real lead I never thought of before.
Thanks, I'll give it a try. I used silver-impregnated paint that was designed to repair remote buttons. It eventually got hard and cracked off. Use paraffin wax (not kerosene) on wood drawer slides. Silicone spray works better for drawer slides because it doesn't wind up with the contents of the drawer (or if it does, it doesn't show). Silicone spray also does wonders for aluminum sliding window tracks. Pencil lead usually contains clay. Use the graphite from the bottles or tubes unless it's an emergency,
Yes! And I'm surprised nobody else here knows about this. I have tried all the other methods and they either don't work or don't last! These pads always work and I've not had one fail yet, and it's a neat clean easy job as well!
There's a conductive paint out there that works nicely with remotes, usually of the carbon/graphite or silver (more expensive) kind. OR, since I already have it in big rolls for shielding electric guitar cavities, use copper conductive tape cut to size.
Mmmmm, maybe. I have a Sky remote, and of course I don't have a bottle of graphite lying around, but your analysis that it is the loss of conductivity that needs fixing sent me back to the remote with a pencil in hand. After a while, I did see some shininess, and the 'Select' button started working cleanly again. I carried on for a bit, and wiped the whole lot over with Isopropanol. All the shininess disappeared, but the button still worked. What I noticed was the the effect of rubbing the surface with the pencil was to remove the imprint of the circuit board from the underside of the buttons. (The pad on the PCB has etched lines under each button, that pattern was being transferred to the underside of the buttons) What I have concluded was happening was that it was the mechanical rubbing that had removed persistent waxes and grease that built up from human skin oil degrading, present of course because of the constant handling over many years. The graphite pencil was important because I had confidence that the graphite would cause no mechanical damage and so applied enough work to the task. Although I used the alcohol, it was the mechanical action of the kitchen towel used to wipe down that gave the cleaning effect. Anyway, no contradiction implied, this is what worked for me under your inspiration.
Many times old spilled soda and snack cracker dust have done damage to board and flexible button contacts. The more you scrub the worse they become. I have repaired dozens using silicone (RTV) and the aluminum wrapper from a pack of cigarettes. Cut small circles (hole punch helps) in the metal coated paper. Attach them with a dab of glue to the weak buttons. Allow ample time for the glue to set and you will have a permanent repair.
I bought a kit for this type of repair. It worked right after applying the magic carbon solution. But the repair did not last... This tip is worth the try as I have carbon and cotton swabs in stock.
I’ve had success with rear window defrost repair “paint”. It’s conductive and also works. I suspect your method is cheaper and probably just as effective.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you. I have a box full of old remote controls that I will be doing this to. By the way your workbench looks just like mine!!! All covered up with crap from the last 6 projects that you worked on.
Excellent, straight to the point and no faffing about! Oh and I learned something too so thanks and well done. My problem is a little bit more tricky however.... sticky keyboard buttons from a spill on a Dell laptop which is impossible to remove or get into lol
If you happen to know a piano technician, I'm guessing that action burnishing fluid would be a good option. It's basically a black carbon suspension which is brushed onto felt to wood contact points within the piano action, left a few moments to dry, then burnished up. Not much cost for a small bottle that lasts forever, in the UK it's called Winslip.
Brilliant! After watching this, I tried it for myself. I didn't have any pure graphite so I scraped some off a pencil and used that. Remote is as good as new now! Many thanks.
I used to clean with isopropyl alcohol then use a B-rated pencil to fix the bad ones, but it didn't use to last long. Finally, I managed to fix them by creating membranes using aluminium foil paper, regular paper sheets and capton tape just to avoid having them moving while reassembling the remote control. It's a tedious work, but it lasts for years.
2B pencil will have some clay mixed in for making the pencil usable on paper , graphite powder ofcourse would be the best. I've found 12B pencil as max B value , I shall try this technique and fix all old remotes :)
I used to use the pencil method to get graphite on the contacts, but that eventually flakes off and gets in the way of things, making it work worse and need another cleaning. The last time I skipped the pencil dust and used 99% isopropyl to scrub each contact. That worked better than any prior fix. I suspect it was removing non-conductive surface contaminants that had collected on them. Electronics circuit cleaning spray might do the same.
@@BrickmanZero Most likely #2 (=HB) as it’s the most common in my region. Still, the good results I got with a complete lack of added graphite after the 99% isopropyl cleaning is impossible to argue with - the conductive pads probably accumulate a film over time that makes them less conductive, and the strong alcohol removed that, restoring the conductive surface
@@unquiche I see, I asked cuz I cleaned my house tv remote with isopropyl alcohol multiple times and it made a lot of difference for all buttons but the power on, so I'm still going to test the graphite or the aluminum foil this weekend
@@BrickmanZero I always clean the metal contact points on the board side, too, because they can also get a film or solid contaminant (like dried cola lol) on them, which would also break the functionality. I might also try electronics circuit cleaner spray next time I have a bad remote, just to see if it’s better or worse than the 99% isopropyl.
That's a neat method alright. I've cleaned mine in the past with IPA with reasonable effectiveness. I have a bottle of that graphite so will try that. I use my remotes in a polythene "jacket" - moisture seems to get in them otherwise. Cheers!
I've tried other methods that worked well too. I wish I knew you could use pencils and graphite. I forgot graphite was conductive, even though I'm sure we've all seen the videos where they cook graphite rods/pencils with electricity... and in many cases they use graphite anodes/cathodes for anodizing, electroplating and electrolysis (and countless other things). I've used metal foils that worked great and have also had success with metal plating/depositing. Also, the electrically conductive gel works well too. This is probably the easiest method I've seen though (next to the conductive gel that pretty much goes on the same). I wish I had several remotes that I could do tests on, repairing each one with a different method and then testing them long term to see which method works the best and lasts the longest. I barely ever use any remotes these days though and the few I have work just fine at the moment.
Yes, I've tried the foil and glue, but found this method (particularly with pure graphite) works the best (better than pencil dust). The intent was the share a method that was easy to use, long lasting, and cheap.
I have had success with cleaning the carbon contacts with a white nylon eraser. It seems to remove any non conductive buildup and restores the contact to its previous conductivity. Give it a try if you don’t want to mess with graphite powder.
That's been mentioned in the comments. It's an OK solution, but it only cleans doesn't the PC board, but doesn't restore conductivity to the contact pads.
Genuine "India Ink" works great for this and is a lot easier. You can test the ink by putting a drop on a piece of paper and letting it dry. Then check it for conductivity with a DVM. Buy it at an art supply store.
heheh - I recognise the jaycar mini screwdriver kit. The thing to look out for with the carbon powder and graphite pencil thing is that the graphite can eventually leave an imprint of graphite across the 'circuit' part of the board, and then end up with intermittent button auto-activation issues due to the 'short' that can occur. The only thing that has worked on a better long term basis for me is graphit 33. Relatively expensive - but has worked best for me on a long term basis - without the short circuit issue that people know about when using graphite that is not properly bonded to the rubber pad.
If this happens (intermittent button auto-activation issues due to the 'short' that can occur), clean the cct board with IPA to clean off the excess carbon.
Most of the time it is enough to clean the rubber mate in dish soap and the circuit board with IPA to remove the sticky that has leaked from the rubber. The plasticizer in rubber leaks out and make it sticky. That is why you shouldn't hold the remote in your hand when you are not using it or leave it on the table, so the sun can shine on it.
You can get graphite spays like "Graphit 33" which is graphite suspended in lacquer which is what I use for this sort of thing. Just spray some in a plastic container en dab it on with a cotton swab. It is quite expensive though.
Sometimes the rubber 'sweats' and leaves a oily residue on the circuit board, in which case a light wash with warm soapy water with a sponge, wash the circuit board and rubber pad and you're good to go.
Agree, sometimes this works. The challenge is that because most remotes are so damned difficult to dismantle, you may was well give it the full treatment and improve contact conductivity.
Exactly the remote on the bench at 0:51 next to the butter knife is the same as the foxtel remotes and there clones. At first I thought it was my son was spilling his beer into the remote but after he left home I still had to keep drying the buttons and the board on my remotes. The moisture also drains the batteries because the moisture on the board conducts. I think the cpu in the remote is programmed to lock out a button if it is constantly pressed. once I discovered this sweating i even got my original foxtel remote and cleaned it out and it worked fine!
Have the good sense to lay out a big sheet of white or light grey paper to film your videos on. Or an old bedsheet. The 3 inch dia. snap lids from food containers are great for holding small screws.
Cool. I think you can use small amount of Elmer's glue (regular white wood glue) as binder, and some water for more viscosity. Rubber eraser is good for cleaning the contacts.
I like to push the screws into styrofoam tray especially if they are different sizes so I can draw the diagram of where they go. Slide the tray in a baggy if it will be a while before putting it back together. I started doing that when I took video cameras apart.
I put my remote into a small plastic bag to stop the acid from the fingers wearing off the paint on the key button, a few years on the remote still looks brand new
It is normally sufficient to dismantle the remote control, clean it thoroughly with water and detergent (!), rinse it with clear water and leave it to dry.
![How to repair remote control - when cleaning doesn't help [replacing the button pads]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z7tsTG_Kq4M/mqdefault.jpg)
This is what TH-cam is about - sharing knowledge and helping others - thank you sir.
I'm sorry (man, I really do) that I'm not totally agreeing with you, but this is what yt SHOULD be about. It became a portal for promoting stupidity now around the whole planet. Ads over ads, sometimes yootoob even threatens users for not watching the crappy commercials they are forcing on us. I'm not complaining more, thumbs up on your comment.
I successfully used graphite sold to lubricate key locks and followed your video. Winner, winner!
I think that's the stuff he used as well given that there is an image of a key on the container.
I wish I could keep my workbench as tidy as yours.
Thanks for the tip. Well done and a good presentation.
I watched your video maybe a week ago. Just this morning, I finally got around to doing this to two Logitech Harmony 650 Remotes. I already had graphite power and a q-tip on hand, so why not? Both remotes had keys that were flaky or wouldn't work at all. Your solution was easy to do. Now my remotes are working like they are factory fresh. Kudos on a great video! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Electronics technician with 48 years in the industry here.
The common cause of the buttons losing sensitivity is that the silicone absorbs skin oils and these oils act as insulation on the pads and tracks.
If you look at the tracks under the pads that are least sensitive , you will see the oily residue. You can clean the tracks and pads with alcohol for a short term fix but the pads will exude more of the oil that is within the silicone.
A longer term fix is to soak the whole key pad sheet in Fuelite (Petroleum Spirit) Fuelite is the main ingredient in CRC Contact Cleaner (in fact it is the only ingredient). Use liquid Fuelite to do this , not Contact Cleaner because you have to immerse the silicone sheet.
Soak the sheet for 5 minutes , it will swell a little , let it dry thoroughly and it will return to normal dimension.
While the silicone has still some absorbed Fuelite in it , it will be easily torn so treat it carefully.
Then reassemble the device.
This fix should last several months depending on the state of the silicone sheet
All you have to do is run the carbon part along a sheet of clean white A4 paper. Same thing. The A4 will absorb the oil and clean the carbon at the same time.
I agree the problem is the oil that comes off the button but I doubt it comes from the oil in the skin It's just part of the membrane and the oil just oozes out after time and pressing The question is how do you stop the oil from coming out So far I have not seen anyone that has an answer to this All of these fixes are temporary The main thing is that is difficult to clean well the membrane and the contact I tried alcohol which seems to clean it but after it dries the pads still feel sticky so I have to clean it a few more times same thing with the membrane it feels a little oil still coming out after it is cleaned with alcohol So I bought a roll of aluminum foil with adhesive on one side and just cut small pieces and place them over the membranes That will last as long as any other method I have seen maybe a couple of years or until the membrane gets so oily that the foil falls off so than I just try to clean it and place a new foil and works again I was thinking of using conductive silver paint I am just not sure how long it will last as the oil under it I imagine it would make the paint not stick after a while
@@stts762 The oil is only present on the buttons that are pressed and the more a button is used the more oily it gets.
If it was just coming from the material , it would be present on all buttons.
Aside from that , oil is not used in silicones
@@PaulG.x I understand your logic but I doubt it comes from the oil from the skin I seriously doubt that oil passes through silicone otherwise there would be oil all around not just on the black rubbery part I think the rubber just disintegrates over time and repeated pressing If it was just oil from the skin it would be easy to clean up with soap and water This is more like a gummy sticky residue that is hard to clean even with alcohol
Thanks. Very interesting. 😊
I just tried this and it works great. I sanded a #2 pencil on sandpaper and applied it with a Q-tip. 👍
I always wondered how those remotes worked inside? Amazingly easy to rejuvenate too. Maybe I'll try it. Thank you.
95% of remotes are exactly like this. The other 5% use pressure sprung buttons (like newer TCL TV's etc) - like ancient Atari 2600 controller pad buttons from the 1970's.
@@pescado99 With time these type of contacts they will eventually need this servicing periodically it seems. I thought about how it could be made a more permanent contact surface and probably the only material that wouldn't wear off and give long service would be gold as any other material would tarnish with time. This would also make them very expensive. Hmm. The things you learn about in life. Very interesting. Thanks again.
There is a commercial solution for this problem. I have no idea where I bought it: Its called "KeyPad-Fix". It is basically a flexible, conductive paint that is formulated to stick to the pads of a membrane keypad. Your idea is a much easier to get solution, everyone has pencils, but the stuff I have makes a much longer lasting repair. Thanks for making this video! Sometimes, the easy fix is all that is needed. I have vintage electronic devices with that type of keypad, but most people don't need that level of repair for their devices.
I use the same stuff. Can confirm it works well!
There is a product called Wire Glue from Jaycar that appears to be the same stuff
Speedy Spares (Vic) used to have a solution as well. Sadly they’re gone now. I did wonder if graphite would last as long as a commercial solution.
_"There is a commercial solution for this problem"_
I've got that _"commercial solution Made in the USA"_ by my side and I gotta say it's quite mediocre solution that in some cases *won't work at all.*
I have a Casio Privia PX-3 digital piano in which a keyboard is made of 4 contact pad PCBA segments one of which started catastrophically failing at some stage due to probably some malfunction occurred during contact pad manufacturing process. In other words multiple cracks started appearing all over the contact array making the electrical circuit unable to be closed. I applied the commercial solution from the above and it last just a few minutes as it's basically just a paint that eventually will crack and fall off due to mechanical stress applied. So I just replaced the faulty PCBA segment with a brand new one like 7 years ago and so far so good. So the commercial solution is rather a cowboy method than a proper approach to repair.
@@MSM5500 thanks for telling us about this. I have never had the problem with cracked pads, so all the repairs I have done have worked pretty well. I did clean the pads with IP alcohol first. A couple times, when the pad loked very smooth, I used a little 200 grit sandpaper to prep the surface of the pad before applying the paint.
I think that how well the repair paint sticks to the pad may have something to do with the composition of the pad. Different formulations may be easier for the paint to adhere to. That and surface preparation may account for the paint peeling off. In the end, though the paint is not 100% effective, it provides a good enough solution to fix many devices.
Bought some graphite from Amazon - Worked absolutely brilliantly! The TV remote is as good as brand new! Many thanks for uploading this tip. 👍🏻😁👍🏻
Recently revived a Siemens DEST phone. It had the same problem. There is a graphite-based glue for repairing the rear window heating of a car. I used it. Silver glue was also on sale, but it was much more expensive... The result is excellent...
Greetings from Russia.
Absolutely brilliant showing you how to re-carbon a remote control for any user that is suffering with flakey operation.
The work space! - priceless! Just like mine, a complete mess - the comment about putting the screws somewhere safe - yep, just plonk them right in the middle of the mess - had me in stiches! It even has my good pair of spectacles dumped in the middle of things that I replace with magnifying reading glasses when I'm doing electronics LOL!
BUT - the theme of the video is excellent. My story, just a week before I saw this video - my wife dropped the remote in the dog's water bowl (yeah, I know, don't ask). I didn't know that had happened until I see a large plastic container on the kitchen bench full of rice.....I ask "what's with the rice?" and she says "it's sucking up all the water out of the remote - according TH-cam this is the best way to do it". I laughed, dug up the remote, which was now also filled with some grains of rice (yes, she thoughtfully took the batteries out but didn't replace the cover), and then pulled it apart and proceeded to empty all the water (and rice grains) out and dry it. What amazed me was the amount of crap (I guess food crumbs, and a few dog hairs and tiny bits of fluff) in under and around the buttons, including some metal ones stuck on to the usual rubbery membrane. I used an old toothbrush and cleaned all the buttons and surfaces - I didn't know about the graphite tip - THANKS! - and dried all the bits out thoroughly. I put it back to together and gave it back to my wife...... an hour later she said "what did you do to the remote? it's working brilliantly now, and all the buttons are working!" LOL. So yeah, I can totally recommend giving any remote a good clean if there are "performance issues", particularly if it doesn't work underwater or in a grain silo LOL. The graphite tip is super useful.
I'm loving this gentle pocking! OK, that's it, I'm cleaning my work bench.... just as soon as the next project is done (Sony amp repair, Nakamichi tape deck, Yamaha subwoofer. phew....) ;-O
@@pescado99 LOL! from the other comments, I see we are all in good company!
@@pescado99 I'd hate to eat from your kitchen if it's the same as your workspace.
Easy to fix it. Learn to... CLEAN AS YOU GO.
Ewww.. includes filthy dog or cat hair. Chances are you eat a kg of that stuff per year.
I've had problems with the keypads on my domestic alarm system for a couple of years. I was unable to source a direct replacement at any price but after coming across your video, and already having some graphite powder that I use for lubrication door locks, I followed your advice this morning. Keypads work like new again. Thank you so much.
Usually - eventually after enough pushing, the graphite power leaves a graphite imprint on the contacts side of the board, which can lead to short circuit and intermittent auto-button activation issues. There is something called graphit 33 which has worked best for me for longer term - without the imprint issue.
I always cut tiny squares of aluminum foil, glued them to the pads and that really seems to last. It's very fiddly tho and your method seems way more convenient. I'll be giving it a shot next time.
I shall keep this video to show my family that there is a workbench worse than mine..
Same here. Well maybe just similar to mine 😅
No, mines the same too 😊
And mine
lol! Same
Hahaha .... you should see mine 🥹😂😂
Just tried this on a Sony TV remote and....wow! What a difference, before some keys barely worked, now the responsiveness is better than it has ever been.
I have control of all things from my armchair again, the power is intoxicating.
For crying out loud CLEAN OFF YOUR WORKBENCH! Thanks for the great tip!
Bah - plenty of room for this project!
If you want something done, ask a busy man!
😂
Clean workbenches are the sign of a broken brain. 😂
I would be trying to figure a way to put all those 'parts' together to make a working remote. Bonus: Clean work bench.
Worked wonders on my old key fob. Thank you! It was driving me crazy not being able to use it. Worst part is unlocking the car manually with the key has a 50/50 chance of setting the car alarm off for some reason.
I wished I came across your video earlier. I cut out the faulty button from the pad and replaced it with an unused button. Working very well!
Wow, unconventional! Hope it lasts.
OK, that’s thinking yeah
For a long lasting solution I suggest Ted Pella 16056 Carbon Conductive Paint, DAG-T-502 available in 30g bottle. I’m not sure about the availability of smaller quantities.
It’s used for electron microscopy to prevent charging in samples by being extremely conductive. It soaks into the carbon disks and dries quickly. I still let it dry overnight for best results. I’ve used this on several synthesizer keyboards and remotes. It does not flake off.
Excellent - I've not heard of this (despite a rigorous search some time ago). Thanks
Try searching for aquaDAG or similar products
I was inspired by your fix-it and went out to my local art supply shop and bought the softest graphite pencil I could find (I think 9B is the softest, but I could only find 8B). Worked like a charm! Thanks so much for taking the time to do this 🖖
Really great tip! I would have guessed that the graphite powder would fly around inside and contaminate everything. But it looks like it doesn't at all, it just sticks where it's supposed to. Betting it's because of the application method with the q-tip. Thanks for this!!
It will. Eventually - it leaves an imprint on the contact side - after enough button pressing, and automatic short circuits can occur. graphit 33 works better.
Wow man, thank you so much...seriously, i had no idea how to fix a remote like that. I tried cleaning with ipa and didn't know what to think or why it still wasn't working. You are awesome dude. Thanks
Great video. A supplementary note - pencil graphite is a mixture of clay & carbon. The softer the pencil grade, the more carbon, but none are pure carbon.
Always clean the board.
The buttons give off a residue like grease.
You can literally wash the button membrane in warm water and dish soap but rinse thoroughly and dry with a hairdryer for speed.
Do the board with switch cleaner or neat alcohol, just not anything that leaves anything behind.
I've repaired hundreds and I don't dawb graphite on the pips, as I call them.
problem pips can be roughed up with very fine sandpaper. A little brush over a few times will get to fresh carbon.
Great video - thanks! I keep a small container of graphite around for lubricating locks - its cheap and lasts for ages if anyone was wondering. All hardware stores have it or buy it online.
What a great idea, Mate. I've cleaned numerous remotes in the past and still they didn't work, due to being badly worn. This will extend the life of them. Cheers.
@@channelsixtyseven067 if the remote was cleaned sooner the contact would not need refurbishing usually cleaning the sticky stuff of the contacts would bring it to life . Some people start tapping the remote and that will crack the circuitry some times fine wire and solder brings back life. Have cleaned 100s of them with soap and water and tuner cleaner
@@clarencefoster7689 One of my own remotes was just plain worn out, a cheap generic remote that came with a Yamaha table-top hifi system. It was always kept clean, but constant use just wore away the contact pads. I got a replacement .... ridiculously expensive, though. I've kept the old one, so I've got to try refurbishing it. Yes, I've used the same cleaning methods you have, but sometimes, they are too far gone.
clean them sooner and never use anything but a soft brush
@@ClarenceFoster-h7n That depends on other people giving me their remotes. I keep my own remotes clean, not allowing food or drink anywhere near them with cling wrap and handle them with clean hands, Prevention is better than cure.
When I noticed that the problem was on the rubber I just used what have in hands, aluminum tape, small pieces cut with scissor and placed in every button, never got problems again.
For the last few years too I've been using dots of kitchen foil and so far never needed redoing.
@@jagmarc I've tried foil, but on the tiny tiny buttons it's too difficult to apply. Also a bit tedious if I'm honest.
@@pescado99 You're right on there, very fiddly to apply.
There's also the trick of rub a 6B lead directly on pad
@@pescado99 I posted a reply earlier today but I've just now noticed has been CENSORED , no longer here. I'm not reposting censored text.
I did the same and worked out great !!
You can find graphite at the lock and key department in most hardware stores. They sell small tubes to lubricate the pin tumblers in locks.
Thanks for this video. I have some controls that are flaky. Your workbench looks like mine. Brilliant.
Great method.
I used to glue aluminum foil on.
might last longer than some powder
As a very wealthy man once told me, "If a man washes his car in the week there is something wrong with his business, and if he washes his car at the week-end there is something wrong with his marriage!"
(I am sure work-benches can also be included here)
Thank you and respect to you. 😉👍🇬🇧
Pencils contain graphite and clay, the harder the "lead" the more clay. The lock lubricant contains no clay. Ron W4BIN
Hence the recommendation to use pure graphite or the highest B rated pencil you can find...
The core of the pencil is graphite mixed with paraffin. You can burn off this wax and the residue should be of pure graphite and carbon.
Never heard of clay used in pencils, well the world is vast.
@@vasiliynkudryavtsev , both are in all 'lead' pencils to various degrees.
Cheers for the this technique I'll give it a go on my TV remote which has a slow to react main control button. Bonus I already have graphite powder 4 lubricating locks.
Thanks a lot. I’ve always cleaned the remote, but that stoped working. The graphite works great. I don’t know what to say, just thanks.
I also used to seal my remotes in plastic bags, especially useful when using with small children, teenagers and similar!
Great tip for fixing remote controls, it will be interesting to see how long it lasts, and whether graphite transfer can lead to shorting the button contacts or other components over time.
I will try it myself, there’s little to lose when the remote isn’t working anymore.
I wouldn’t recommend harvesting graphite from a 2B pencil.
Pencils contain graphite bound together with clay, the more clay, the harder the pencil. So a 2H has more clay than HB, which has more than a 2B etc.
Even a very soft 6B pencil contains a significant amount of clay.
2B pencils may contain enough graphite to be conductive, but you’re far better off using pure graphite.
Using pencils as a graphite source in many other contexts (such as lubricating locks/keys) is not recommended, because the clay acts as an abrasive over time.
Wow, i never knew that, but it makes perfect sense as to what could possibly be able to hold soft graphite together and is able to make it so useful, because when you think about it, surely pure harvested graphite alone would never hold its shape well enough to be made into a pencil, let alone, hold its shape while enough force is used to actually use it as a writing implement. thank you very much for sharing this important information. Hmm... i wonder if thats why theyre called lead...the combination of graphite and clay...i mean...certainly it doesn't actually contain lead right?. Probably a dumb thing to ponder. Lol
@@majinkakashi20 There is no lead in ‘lead’ pencils and there never has been.
When mineral deposits of graphite were first found, in the 1500s, it was thought to be a form of lead, and it was quickly recognised that it was useful for making marks/writing. The mineral was called plumbago, from the Latin for lead, plumbum.
It was later discovered that the mineral plumbago was a form of carbon, graphite, but writing the name ‘lead’ stuck for the graphite writing stylus and later the pencil.
Now that's an idea.... rub a piece of soft pure lead Pb on the pad directly to transfer the metal. In the past I have had success doing this with a very soft pencil but real lead I never thought of before.
Thanks, I'll give it a try. I used silver-impregnated paint that was designed to repair remote buttons. It eventually got hard and cracked off. Use paraffin wax (not kerosene) on wood drawer slides. Silicone spray works better for drawer slides because it doesn't wind up with the contents of the drawer (or if it does, it doesn't show). Silicone spray also does wonders for aluminum sliding window tracks. Pencil lead usually contains clay. Use the graphite from the bottles or tubes unless it's an emergency,
Great idea. Swipe the pad with slight conductive paste so the graphite sticks. Too goopy will not leave a gap.
Great tip. You do get a product called Liquid Graphite from Kuretake. You can paint it on and it will stick better.
Good enough for Australia.!
I went with the DIY Arrduino Lerning Remote. OLED touch screen.
Brilliant! Agree about Denon as well.
Thanks very much indeed. My home safe key buttons were not working and I was going to replace the safe. Now works perfectly!
cheers.
You can buy little conductive stickers that are made for this. They probably hold out longer than putting loose graphite onto the rubber pads.
Yep, these are the best solution. Graphite power is only temporary and the various conductive glues don't adhere well.
Yes! And I'm surprised nobody else here knows about this. I have tried all the other methods and they either don't work or don't last! These pads always work and I've not had one fail yet, and it's a neat clean easy job as well!
Thank you I'll give this a try. I have a couple of remotes that are needing this.
Thanks MATE my remote is on the O.R. table tomorrow to many brews tonight to be putting a scalpel in my hand ................ cheers 🍻🍺
There's a conductive paint out there that works nicely with remotes, usually of the carbon/graphite or silver (more expensive) kind. OR, since I already have it in big rolls for shielding electric guitar cavities, use copper conductive tape cut to size.
Mmmmm, maybe.
I have a Sky remote, and of course I don't have a bottle of graphite lying around, but your analysis that it is the loss of conductivity that needs fixing sent me back to the remote with a pencil in hand. After a while, I did see some shininess, and the 'Select' button started working cleanly again. I carried on for a bit, and wiped the whole lot over with Isopropanol.
All the shininess disappeared, but the button still worked. What I noticed was the the effect of rubbing the surface with the pencil was to remove the imprint of the circuit board from the underside of the buttons. (The pad on the PCB has etched lines under each button, that pattern was being transferred to the underside of the buttons)
What I have concluded was happening was that it was the mechanical rubbing that had removed persistent waxes and grease that built up from human skin oil degrading, present of course because of the constant handling over many years. The graphite pencil was important because I had confidence that the graphite would cause no mechanical damage and so applied enough work to the task. Although I used the alcohol, it was the mechanical action of the kitchen towel used to wipe down that gave the cleaning effect.
Anyway, no contradiction implied, this is what worked for me under your inspiration.
Many times old spilled soda and snack cracker dust have done damage to board and flexible button contacts. The more you scrub the worse they become.
I have repaired dozens using silicone (RTV) and the aluminum wrapper from a pack of cigarettes.
Cut small circles (hole punch helps) in the metal coated paper. Attach them with a dab of glue to the weak buttons. Allow ample time for the glue to set and you will have a permanent repair.
Thankyou for this video. I've cleaned a few remotes in the past, but never knew about the carbon contacts. Great stuff!
I bought a kit for this type of repair.
It worked right after applying the magic carbon solution. But the repair did not last...
This tip is worth the try as I have carbon and cotton swabs in stock.
Very helpful video. I am going to try it on a couple of remotes that have dodgy keys. Thank you
I've had good success with "B6" pencil graphite.
I've done this for years, used to make money as a kid fixing peoples remotes!
People thought I was a genius!
I’ve had success with rear window defrost repair “paint”. It’s conductive and also works. I suspect your method is cheaper and probably just as effective.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you. I have a box full of old remote controls that I will be doing this to.
By the way your workbench looks just like mine!!! All covered up with crap from the last 6 projects that you worked on.
Great info, thanks. I have a kitchen scale that will be undergoing this treatment asap. Cheers!
Excellent, straight to the point and no faffing about! Oh and I learned something too so thanks and well done.
My problem is a little bit more tricky however.... sticky keyboard buttons from a spill on a Dell laptop which is impossible to remove or get into lol
@lagunafishing pull it apart and wash out with warm soapy water, then dry it out in the sun before reassembly.
@@pescado99 it has a built in keyboard, just buttons. Impossible to remove
If you happen to know a piano technician, I'm guessing that action burnishing fluid would be a good option. It's basically a black carbon suspension which is brushed onto felt to wood contact points within the piano action, left a few moments to dry, then burnished up. Not much cost for a small bottle that lasts forever, in the UK it's called Winslip.
I use conductive paint, which is used to repair broken tracks in circuit boards etc
Brilliant! After watching this, I tried it for myself. I didn't have any pure graphite so I scraped some off a pencil and used that. Remote is as good as new now! Many thanks.
I used to clean with isopropyl alcohol then use a B-rated pencil to fix the bad ones, but it didn't use to last long. Finally, I managed to fix them by creating membranes using aluminium foil paper, regular paper sheets and capton tape just to avoid having them moving while reassembling the remote control. It's a tedious work, but it lasts for years.
Good stuff. So far I'm really pleased with my method, but I'll be interested to know how long it lasts!
2B pencil will have some clay mixed in for making the pencil usable on paper , graphite powder ofcourse would be the best.
I've found 12B pencil as max B value , I shall try this technique and fix all old remotes :)
Very nice video and useful video, thanks for sharing. Finally my tv remote control will come a life again.
Tried it, LOVE it. Works great, thanks for the video 👍😀
Damn, I wish I'd seen this three hours ago. I've just taken a remote apart to clean it and it could have done with this doing. Great video thanks!
Great my power button on my 26 years old remote works again, Thanks
I used to use the pencil method to get graphite on the contacts, but that eventually flakes off and gets in the way of things, making it work worse and need another cleaning. The last time I skipped the pencil dust and used 99% isopropyl to scrub each contact. That worked better than any prior fix. I suspect it was removing non-conductive surface contaminants that had collected on them. Electronics circuit cleaning spray might do the same.
What kind of pencil did you use? Like H, HB or a high B?
@@BrickmanZero Most likely #2 (=HB) as it’s the most common in my region. Still, the good results I got with a complete lack of added graphite after the 99% isopropyl cleaning is impossible to argue with - the conductive pads probably accumulate a film over time that makes them less conductive, and the strong alcohol removed that, restoring the conductive surface
@@unquiche I see, I asked cuz I cleaned my house tv remote with isopropyl alcohol multiple times and it made a lot of difference for all buttons but the power on, so I'm still going to test the graphite or the aluminum foil this weekend
@@BrickmanZero I always clean the metal contact points on the board side, too, because they can also get a film or solid contaminant (like dried cola lol) on them, which would also break the functionality. I might also try electronics circuit cleaner spray next time I have a bad remote, just to see if it’s better or worse than the 99% isopropyl.
Thank you for all your hard work.
Thank you kindly.
Good tutorial.
Cheers m8.
That's a neat method alright. I've cleaned mine in the past with IPA with reasonable effectiveness. I have a bottle of that graphite so will try that. I use my remotes in a polythene "jacket" - moisture seems to get in them otherwise. Cheers!
I always found that just wiping off the oxidation on the buttons was enough to get them working again; never thought about applying graphite to them.
I've tried other methods that worked well too. I wish I knew you could use pencils and graphite. I forgot graphite was conductive, even though I'm sure we've all seen the videos where they cook graphite rods/pencils with electricity... and in many cases they use graphite anodes/cathodes for anodizing, electroplating and electrolysis (and countless other things). I've used metal foils that worked great and have also had success with metal plating/depositing. Also, the electrically conductive gel works well too. This is probably the easiest method I've seen though (next to the conductive gel that pretty much goes on the same). I wish I had several remotes that I could do tests on, repairing each one with a different method and then testing them long term to see which method works the best and lasts the longest. I barely ever use any remotes these days though and the few I have work just fine at the moment.
Yes, I've tried the foil and glue, but found this method (particularly with pure graphite) works the best (better than pencil dust). The intent was the share a method that was easy to use, long lasting, and cheap.
@@pescado99 Well, you succeeded.
Well explained. Even I could understand it. Thanks.
I have had success with cleaning the carbon contacts with a white nylon eraser. It seems to remove any non conductive buildup and restores the contact to its previous conductivity. Give it a try if you don’t want to mess with graphite powder.
That's been mentioned in the comments. It's an OK solution, but it only cleans doesn't the PC board, but doesn't restore conductivity to the contact pads.
@@pescado99 yeah, it works well!
Genuine "India Ink" works great for this and is a lot easier. You can test the ink by putting a drop on a piece of paper and letting it dry. Then check it for conductivity with a DVM. Buy it at an art supply store.
heheh - I recognise the jaycar mini screwdriver kit. The thing to look out for with the carbon powder and graphite pencil thing is that the graphite can eventually leave an imprint of graphite across the 'circuit' part of the board, and then end up with intermittent button auto-activation issues due to the 'short' that can occur. The only thing that has worked on a better long term basis for me is graphit 33. Relatively expensive - but has worked best for me on a long term basis - without the short circuit issue that people know about when using graphite that is not properly bonded to the rubber pad.
Good tip, thanks. I'm definately chasing a long-term solution.
If this happens (intermittent button auto-activation issues due to the 'short' that can occur), clean the cct board with IPA to clean off the excess carbon.
Genius! Thank you for sharing.
Great video! Well spoken, clearly presented & very useful!! Thanks
You're very welcome!
Most of the time it is enough to clean the rubber mate in dish soap and the circuit board with IPA to remove the sticky that has leaked from the rubber.
The plasticizer in rubber leaks out and make it sticky. That is why you shouldn't hold the remote in your hand when you are not using it or leave it on the table, so the sun can shine on it.
google must have been watching me pushing hard on the tv remote. thank you google. just this once.
You can get graphite spays like "Graphit 33" which is graphite suspended in lacquer which is what I use for this sort of thing. Just spray some in a plastic container en dab it on with a cotton swab. It is quite expensive though.
@NicB-Creations agree, this was meant to show a budget DIY fix.
Thanks for this. Never knew it was this simple. Wish I knew this 30 years ago
Sometimes the rubber 'sweats' and leaves a oily residue on the circuit board, in which case a light wash with warm soapy water with a sponge, wash the circuit board and rubber pad and you're good to go.
Agree, sometimes this works. The challenge is that because most remotes are so damned difficult to dismantle, you may was well give it the full treatment and improve contact conductivity.
Exactly the remote on the bench at 0:51 next to the butter knife is the same as the foxtel remotes and there clones. At first I thought it was my son was spilling his beer into the remote but after he left home I still had to keep drying the buttons and the board on my remotes. The moisture also drains the batteries because the moisture on the board conducts. I think the cpu in the remote is programmed to lock out a button if it is constantly pressed. once I discovered this sweating i even got my original foxtel remote and cleaned it out and it worked fine!
Btw you can buy powdered graphite lubricant , it is used to lubricate lock barrels
Really useful tip, thanks
Have the good sense to lay out a big sheet of white or light grey paper to film your videos on. Or an old bedsheet. The 3 inch dia. snap lids from food containers are great for holding small screws.
I've had good luck cleaning those contacts on the buttons and on the circuit board using a pencil eraser.
Brilliant advice, thanks!
Cool. I think you can use small amount of Elmer's glue (regular white wood glue) as binder, and some water for more viscosity. Rubber eraser is good for cleaning the contacts.
Wondered why I cleaned a Foxtel remote with IPA, especially the black rubbery bits, and it got worse? 😆 Live and learn.😍
Great video, thank you very much!
Thanks for this awesome fix 👍🏻
I remember now I've got some graphite powder in a little bottle which I got from somewhere way back and it was sold for lubricating locks.
I like to push the screws into styrofoam tray especially if they are different sizes so I can draw the diagram of where they go. Slide the tray in a baggy if it will be a while before putting it back together. I started doing that when I took video cameras apart.
Worked 100%
Excellent, thank you!
I put my remote into a small plastic bag to stop the acid from the fingers wearing off the paint on the key button, a few years on the remote still looks brand new
@virtually2124. Good idea, but this doesn't stop the buttons and contacts wearing out though.
It is normally sufficient to dismantle the remote control, clean it thoroughly with water and detergent (!), rinse it with clear water and leave it to dry.
Agree, sometimes this is enough.
Heh, put them "somewhere safe" on that workbench. Useful tip though, thanks.
That's brilliant