I cannot thank you enough for this video. I have now been using this method of sharpening for a year and it has changed my woodworking life. My chisels no longer look like dodgy screwdrivers (they actually cut hardwood) and my planes create shavings instead of gouging lumps out of the grain. I now never put my chisels away without using the strop. I cannot thank you enough.
Firstly, at 66 years young I will mention that I am a complete novice when it comes to woodworking. However, I am keen and enthusiastic and thanks to the You Tube University I am learning. My sharpening skills were on a par with my woodworking skills - almost non-existent. I tried the diamond stones on offer by our local Bunnings hardware store here in Australia to no avail. Total failure. On your advice I decided to 'bite the bullet' and purchased the Trend Diamond Stone, leather strop, paste and lapping fluid etc - all at a significant cost due to our Aussie Dollar and I am so glad I did. The sheer joy of seeing my chisels do the paper cutting thing for the first time was a thing of beauty. Buying the gear is only part of the equation of course. Having you, and your peers as my own personal tutors, teaching me how to use all this stuff is the real success story. Please don't ever under-estimate your value to people like me. Thanks heaps from Aus.
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I have watched a lot of tutorials about sharpening and honestly yours was the most "beginner friendly". You explained everything very thoroughly and I really appreciate the tips on when to stop and sharpen.
Thanks for all your videos on sharpening - as an "industrial woodworker" - working in shops where nearly everything is done by power tools, hand tools use, sharpening, etc. were neglected. Now that I'm retired and in my own shop I find myself turning more and more to hand tools -
Hi James, I purchased the Trend Diamond Stone you demonstrate in this video and another. It's amazing. I never had good success in sharpening until I purchased that stone and the cheap jig to hold it. Thank you
Yet again a wonder video filled with quality information. One thing's for sure, I always walk away with more knowledge and filled with gratitude from the content you provide. Thank you so very much.
I've come to really enjoy your channel more and more. I really appreciate all the information you share and the patient way you present it. Thank you Mr Nubs.
Thanks for the lesson. Well done. A couple of suggestions for future videos: woodworking on a restricted budget for us po' folks, and what to do about rust. My shop building is way less than air tight and I live in very humid climate so rust is a constant problem. Hard as I try, I can't seem to get ahead of it.
Hi James. Every time, not most of the time but every time I stop by I learn something new; like the ruler tip AND that it only works with plane irons. So two things. And I guess I'll have to get a strop sometime soon. Thanks always for sharing. Stay safe and remember to wash your hands often, it is the best defence we have right now. Cheers from BC!
The Worksharp 3000 that I won in 2015, is still my go to sharpener. I have started using a leather strop on the bench, instead of the one I glued onto a MDF disk that fit the 3000. I am still using the stand I made from your plans!
Hey James! Thanks for sharing all this info with us. I really appreciate your straightforward explanations! I'm wondering, do you keep your hand sharpening kit in your workbench? I'm trying to get my shop in order and am looking for the best places to put things. Thanks for all you do to help us!
Tools seen in these videos► -Trend 300/1000 diamond stone: amzn.to/2LPNKmA -Stropping leather: amzn.to/2n4BDmN -Stropping paste: amzn.to/2Azdezc -Shapton 4000 ceramic stone: amzn.to/2UP74BX -Eclipse-style honing jig: amzn.to/2wtlakq -Bridge City Tools honing guide: bridgecitytools.com/collectio... -Arm-style protractor: amzn.to/2QAknF4 (We may get a small financial return if you use the above affiliate links) Other sharpening videos you may enjoy► Choosing the best method/medium: th-cam.com/video/ADN_EbSihEM/w-d-xo.html A diamond stone tutorial video: th-cam.com/video/zBND6emsSE4/w-d-xo.html A CBN grinder stone tutorial: th-cam.com/video/IOXXiPK1L4s/w-d-xo.html Our Worksharp 3000 video: th-cam.com/video/UmMwIKzUagQ/w-d-xo.html Our Tormek video: th-cam.com/video/JgKkBpqXBv4/w-d-xo.html When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► Trend diamond stones: amzn.to/2XomWMi
Thank you for the the sharpening tips, I like the method of just using the stropping leather and paste, so you can go right back to working. Looking forward to the other videos, thanks again.
Hello! First of all I really like your work and the way you try to make things easier for ocasional wood workers (hobby) like me! Great job, and kudos! I have some technical question. - apparently the shapton stone comes in two flavours. Soft and hard bond. What do you recommend and why? - the 4000 grit shampton has a good price. the 6000 or 8000 (10 EUR and 30 EUR extra) is worth the money? or is just to much for nothing? - for the shaptom stone what is the recommended lubricant? Thank you!
I like your videos. You're my favourite! Any idea if i could flatten a water stone with a diamond stone? (DMT coarse or extra course). Not a lapping stone, just a normal diamond stone. Would the diamond stone get damaged? My water stones are 1000 and 3000. Thanks!
I haven't had much luck with diamond stones. Water stones are what works best for me. In extreme cases, it's either sandpaper on 1-1/2" MDF with a jig, or a low-speed grinder where I work. It doesn't take long to get good enough re-profiling with a grinder.
Looking forward to that freehand video Using a 400/1000 stone is great, but I always end up a little skewed for either chisels, with the 1/4 inch one being the biggest offender, and the plane iron. Not a problem with the iron after some adjusting, but I'd like to keep the chisel straight or mostly straight. I'd use a jug for the chisel, but the eclipse style one with the single wheel is a bit of a pain to set up and I always seem to pop out before any sharpening is done.
Always enjoy your vid.s. And after watching your previous sharpening piece, I got a Trend Diamond stone myself...really good product. I must be of a dying breed of woodworkers who won't use the ruler "trick when sharpening plane irons. Perhaps the countless hours of flattening the chisels and irons compels us to preserve that surface right to the cutting edge...yes, just like, as you noted a chisel.
If you spend the time to flatten the whole back, you never have to do the ruler trick. So it's a choice between a lot of time once, or a little time over and over. That said, I like the ruler trick because it also removes the burr on the back by wearing it away rather than breaking it off.
As i have worked through your approach, a quick question: i noticed two (what i assume are) trend stones and a ceramic. 1) what is the second and 2) is this all you use for chisel / plane blade setup and maintenance? I think you have covered maintenance well, just want to be comprehensive in the ask. Terrific stuff.
As a former chef (before I realized woodworking is my real passion) I can tell you that touching up an edge is vital. Chefs always keep a sharpening steel handy. A couple passes each side, and you're back at work. Then we don't have to use the whet stones very often. Whether that edge is used to cut tomatoes or wood does not matter. The principles remains. Rules have exceptions, principles do not. Thanks, Stumpy!
My biggest issue with plane irons is that it may take 30 seconds to touch it up, but it takes another 20 minutes to get the iron properly adjusted. Somehow, I just can't master it. I picked up one of these diamond stones based on your recommendation, though, and it is awesome! Haven't touched another stone since.
I can't remember which video it was, but I saw you sharpening a router bit and you had a base that looked like a slap of black granite. Can you tell me what that exactly was, and where I might be able to get that base. Thank You.
I just wipe both with a cloth. If the diamond needs deeper cleaning, I rub it with a white draftsman's eraser. This works great to remove metal shavings that may build up over time too. Makes the diamonds sparkle like new.
I really like your youtube channel, I was impressed with the videos about sharpening so much, that I ordered the Trend kit you recommend. But you said the diamond plate needs to be broken in, but not to use water to do it, so what exactly should I use to break it in?
Here s a video about breaking in diamond stones: th-cam.com/video/Hjq-iI1ZuQI/w-d-xo.html As for water, the manufacturer says not to use it. Some do anyway. It's your call.
I'd love to see a video which combined the "best of" power and hand sharpening. For instance, hollow grind on the Tormek then follow with hand/guided bench stone work and stropping. Any thoughts on the Tormek for stropping, as it includes a leather wheel too?
The last part of this series is about hollow grinding with a bench grinder. Together, the five episodes in the series are your collective "best of." As for the Tormek, it remains my personal favorite way to both sharpen and strop. You can't beat that stropping wheel. You just walk over to it, touch the tool on the leather with no jig and in three or four seconds you've done the equivalent of a minute or more of stropping by hand. Love it!
I always use a straightedge to set the blade in a gauge to keep the main bevel constant. It saves me from having to fix a rounded angle on the cutting edge and just a few licks on a stone keeps it sharp.
@@StumpyNubs The manual that came with my diamond stones recommends water, but a few people online recommend Windex. I've tried it once, and it does keep the stones much cleaner. I'm just worried about long term effects; any thoughts? I still make sure the stones are completely dry before I put them away again.
@@kaasmeester5903 We covered this in the diamond stone tutorial, which is linked below this video. But the short answer is- there's always a small chance that water can cause rust beneath the diamond layer on the steel substrate (assuming you don't have a cheaper stone with a plastic substrate). Some stones (like Trend) recommend a lapping fluid. Others (like Paul Sellers, who uses Trend stones) use Windex anyway. I use the fluid.
I’ve come to understand that you and Rob Cossman share a similar philosophy regarding sharpening. I’m using your method from 1k grit to the strop. Primarily because I rather not use water. I contemplated using DMT 8k diamond stone but they really don’t want you to use anything but water. I think it’s more about branding. They told me that petroleum based product will degrade their stones. I don’t see how.
I don't like fine diamond stones. They don't last. I made a video about why once: th-cam.com/video/re2EwwNcufo/w-d-xo.html If you want a finer stone, go with the Shapton glass stones. That's what Rob uses (and I do occasionally, as well) amzn.to/3tVurLU
I have been using the Trend Mirror Paste on my leather strop. It works well but dries out to a powdery form within a day or so. Is this normal and ok or should I be dressing the leather with a conditioner?
It works just fine even if it's powdery. If it's falling off the strop, you have too much on. You can re-moisten it with a drop or two of lapping fluid or very light oil (just a little, don't soak the strop). You can do the same if, over a couple years of un-use, the jar starts to dry out. Good as new.
Found some nice 9x3 diamond "stones" on aliexpress for under $7 each. I guess I should have picked up a 3000 grit one, too. Paul Sellers seems to have been able to put these to good use, and even though these are MUCH thinner than my expensive diamond surfaces I expect they'll hold up just fine sitting on a cheap surface plate (I went with larger ones than him because a couple of my planes have really wide irons -- you can get 6x2.75 ones for $3-4 each).
Here's a quick and easy way to set the angle on your plane blades to prepare for sharpening on stones. Get one of those fairly inexpensive magnetic digital angle gauges used for setting the angle on the tablesaw blade. Another idea is you can use that digital gauge when making one of those setup blocks for an even quicker angle finding setup in the future. Making it easy encourages sharpening. Work sharper not harder.
Hey james great video as always! Question ; was that a taytools no 5 and if so how do you like it and how does it compare to vintage Stanley's? Thanks Jay
You have two Tormek sharpening machines just behind you, Why not strop using one of those? I use the Tormek and diamond stones followed by the Tormek strop to get a mirror finish on my chisels. Thanks for the tip on the Bridge City jig.
Stumpy Nubs The Bridge City Jig is $200, if your viewers are capable of that kind of expenditures, then the Tormek is possible as well. Don’t get me wrong, I like and enjoy your channel. Keep em coming!
That wasn't the only jig I showed. We've also made videos about pretty much every type of system out there, especially the Tormek.... (They have a Tormek in the shop at Fine Woodworking Magazine. Should they never write an article about stone sharpening?) Half a million people watch our videos each month. We make content for a wide range of tastes, and we avoid giving the impression that there's only one way to do things. I think that's a good way to do things.
The Trend stone does not ship to Europe, or at least to Austria, do you by chance know how or where to get those here? I know you love our Fisch Forstner Drills ;)
Not a bad system at all. I use a 1200 diamond stone and windex, rather than a strop. If you put the windex on, and then place the blade on the stone and rotate it forward (tail up, nose down) the wet will squeeze out forwards, and when it stops squeezing out, your bevel is 100% flat on the stone. You can now sharpen 10 strokes and your edge will resharpened, about 3-5sec. I also do my planes this way: flip open the level cap, lift it off, slide out the blade, leave the breaker on, sharpen a few strokes and back in. Once a week I take the time to use a sharpening jig on all my tools, including hand saws. This way they only ever need a touch up, unless you chip a blade. It doesn't take long to do all my chisels and planes and insures that I can always be working most efficiently.
Since you only strop by pulling the cutting edge of a tool “away” from the strop instead of into the strop, which would very likely cut into the leather, could you then not extended the plane blade while it’s in the plane body, and simply strop it while its in place, given the direction of stropping? Save having to disassemble the plane every time..
No because the angle at which the iron is held in the plane is not equal to the angle you grind your bevel to. That angle is a product of the bed angle, and in the case of bevel-up plans there's a bed angle in addition to the bevel angle. You would essentially be dragging the cutting edge across the strop at a very high angle, which would blunt it.
Super fine diamond stones are a myth. 2/3 of a diamond has to be embedded in the substrate to stay on the stone. There is not enough of a diamond smaller than 1K to embed. It will fall off. The ultra-fine stones have to glue their diamonds on.
@@StumpyNubs So the DMT extra extra fine stones are junk? I have a green one that leaves an almost mirror surface for my kitchen knives. wanted to get the big bench stone as well? Should i not? I really dislike the maintenance of required on ceramic and water stones
@@jasonroets9906 I'm just giving you the facts about how stones are made. They can not properly electroplate a diamond that fine. And when you use glue you compromise the flatness of the substrate. But if it's working for you, that's what matters.
@@StumpyNubs You know more than me. that's why asked. i like diamond for all the reasons you have mentioned. I would rather use a extra fine diamond stone over any ceramic. Even if its 2/3000 approx then strop. Because its faster and gives me a better edge than going from a 1000 to the strip. But you know that already
Nice vid about stripping often. I'm more of a construction guy than a shop guy (I know... You can make fun of me) and I keep my chisels in my belt but I want to keep them ship-shape vs working then to shit conditions and waiting for a day off to pull out the stones and spend hours on them. So after watching this, I will keep a leather strop in my belt with the chisels for quick touchups. Can I use any leather for the strop or do I have to get something special? Also, does the paste matter? Amazon paste or Lee Valley paste?
DMT has a medium extra fine that's about 4K grit if you don't like the zen of stone mud. Apologies for mentioning a competitor to Trend, it wasn't on purpose.
Diamond stones finer that 1000 grit are not a good idea, in my opinion. For a stone to be well made and durable at least 2/3 of each individual diamond must be embedded in the nickle on the substrate. Only the tip sticks out, like an iceberg. Grit finer than 1000 is way to small to properly secure on the stone. It won't hold up. And you won't even know it because the stone feels smooth whether the diamonds fell off or not.
Why does this seem complicated to you? It's pretty simple. Not very much more complicated than your knife, except for the fact that a knife doesn't require a flat stone.
I cannot thank you enough for this video. I have now been using this method of sharpening for a year and it has changed my woodworking life. My chisels no longer look like dodgy screwdrivers (they actually cut hardwood) and my planes create shavings instead of gouging lumps out of the grain. I now never put my chisels away without using the strop. I cannot thank you enough.
Firstly, at 66 years young I will mention that I am a complete novice when it comes to woodworking. However, I am keen and enthusiastic and thanks to the You Tube University I am learning. My sharpening skills were on a par with my woodworking skills - almost non-existent. I tried the diamond stones on offer by our local Bunnings hardware store here in Australia to no avail. Total failure. On your advice I decided to 'bite the bullet' and purchased the Trend Diamond Stone, leather strop, paste and lapping fluid etc - all at a significant cost due to our Aussie Dollar and I am so glad I did. The sheer joy of seeing my chisels do the paper cutting thing for the first time was a thing of beauty. Buying the gear is only part of the equation of course. Having you, and your peers as my own personal tutors, teaching me how to use all this stuff is the real success story. Please don't ever under-estimate your value to people like me. Thanks heaps from Aus.
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I have watched a lot of tutorials about sharpening and honestly yours was the most "beginner friendly". You explained everything very thoroughly and I really appreciate the tips on when to stop and sharpen.
Thanks for all your videos on sharpening - as an "industrial woodworker" - working in shops where nearly everything is done by power tools, hand tools use, sharpening, etc. were neglected. Now that I'm retired and in my own shop I find myself turning more and more to hand tools -
Last name caught my attention. Wood working seems run in the family.
Making a strop and learning how (and when) to use it has done more for my use of hand tools than anything else.
Thank you for caring about those of us who don't have power sharpening. Great video and tips James! 👍
Hi James, I purchased the Trend Diamond Stone you demonstrate in this video and another. It's amazing. I never had good success in sharpening until I purchased that stone and the cheap jig to hold it. Thank you
Stumpy nubs, I'm so excited to see this 5 part series on sharpening. Thank you for taking the time to make them.
Yet again a wonder video filled with quality information. One thing's for sure, I always walk away with more knowledge and filled with gratitude from the content you provide. Thank you so very much.
me too
I've come to really enjoy your channel more and more. I really appreciate all the information you share and the patient way you present it. Thank you Mr Nubs.
A really great definitive sharpening guide. Covers all the highlights nicely.
Wow that tapered edge trick is really helpful.
Thanks for the lesson. Well done.
A couple of suggestions for future videos: woodworking on a restricted budget for us po' folks, and what to do about rust. My shop building is way less than air tight and I live in very humid climate so rust is a constant problem. Hard as I try, I can't seem to get ahead of it.
Hi James. Every time, not most of the time but every time I stop by I learn something new; like the ruler tip AND that it only works with plane irons. So two things. And I guess I'll have to get a strop sometime soon. Thanks always for sharing. Stay safe and remember to wash your hands often, it is the best defence we have right now. Cheers from BC!
Sharpening often is really good advice. I do some carving and i only strop. And like you said best to do it more often before the tool gets too dull.
Thanks, sharpening is #3 on my Shop Isolation list of things to get done - great approach. Cheers
What are #1 and #2?
The Worksharp 3000 that I won in 2015, is still my go to sharpener. I have started using a leather strop on the bench, instead of the one I glued onto a MDF disk that fit the 3000. I am still using the stand I made from your plans!
Good advice and techniques.
Thanks James.
As ever- great tips, stay sharp and you will be safe. Be strong, be safe and take care!
A great lesson.
Thanks for the tutorials James.
Never thought I could sharpen a chisel enough that I didn’t feel it cut me. Thanks a lot :p
Very good info
Hey James! Thanks for sharing all this info with us. I really appreciate your straightforward explanations! I'm wondering, do you keep your hand sharpening kit in your workbench? I'm trying to get my shop in order and am looking for the best places to put things.
Thanks for all you do to help us!
Check out how Rob Cosman has his on a shelf attached low on the end of his workbench.
Tools seen in these videos►
-Trend 300/1000 diamond stone: amzn.to/2LPNKmA
-Stropping leather: amzn.to/2n4BDmN
-Stropping paste: amzn.to/2Azdezc
-Shapton 4000 ceramic stone: amzn.to/2UP74BX
-Eclipse-style honing jig: amzn.to/2wtlakq
-Bridge City Tools honing guide: bridgecitytools.com/collectio...
-Arm-style protractor: amzn.to/2QAknF4
(We may get a small financial return if you use the above affiliate links)
Other sharpening videos you may enjoy►
Choosing the best method/medium: th-cam.com/video/ADN_EbSihEM/w-d-xo.html
A diamond stone tutorial video: th-cam.com/video/zBND6emsSE4/w-d-xo.html
A CBN grinder stone tutorial: th-cam.com/video/IOXXiPK1L4s/w-d-xo.html
Our Worksharp 3000 video: th-cam.com/video/UmMwIKzUagQ/w-d-xo.html
Our Tormek video: th-cam.com/video/JgKkBpqXBv4/w-d-xo.html
When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us►
Trend diamond stones: amzn.to/2XomWMi
So what happened to the Fastrack MK2 that you reviewed not too long ago?
Its getting mighty expensive watching your videos you make such good recommendations i quite often put this stuff on my to get list
What chisel & plane jigs do you recommend? Thank you.
In your method, is the strop replacing a 4000 or higher ceramic stone?
Thank you for the the sharpening tips, I like the method of just using the stropping leather and paste, so you can go right back to working. Looking forward to the other videos, thanks again.
Great job James. Really like your sharpening tools and videos. Thanks for sharing with us. Fred
How do you maintain or restore a diamond plate? Thank you. 😁
Hello! First of all I really like your work and the way you try to make things easier for ocasional wood workers (hobby) like me! Great job, and kudos!
I have some technical question.
- apparently the shapton stone comes in two flavours. Soft and hard bond. What do you recommend and why?
- the 4000 grit shampton has a good price. the 6000 or 8000 (10 EUR and 30 EUR extra) is worth the money? or is just to much for nothing?
- for the shaptom stone what is the recommended lubricant?
Thank you!
I like your videos. You're my favourite! Any idea if i could flatten a water stone with a diamond stone? (DMT coarse or extra course). Not a lapping stone, just a normal diamond stone. Would the diamond stone get damaged? My water stones are 1000 and 3000. Thanks!
Yes, diamond stones are commonly used to flatten water stones
Great explanation James. Thank you.
Just what i needed, thanks
I haven't had much luck with diamond stones. Water stones are what works best for me. In extreme cases, it's either sandpaper on 1-1/2" MDF with a jig, or a low-speed grinder where I work. It doesn't take long to get good enough re-profiling with a grinder.
Looking forward to that freehand video
Using a 400/1000 stone is great, but I always end up a little skewed for either chisels, with the 1/4 inch one being the biggest offender, and the plane iron. Not a problem with the iron after some adjusting, but I'd like to keep the chisel straight or mostly straight.
I'd use a jug for the chisel, but the eclipse style one with the single wheel is a bit of a pain to set up and I always seem to pop out before any sharpening is done.
Keep up the good work!! I wasn’t trying to critical.
Always enjoy your vid.s. And after watching your previous sharpening piece, I got a Trend Diamond stone myself...really good product. I must be of a dying breed of woodworkers who won't use the ruler "trick when sharpening plane irons. Perhaps the countless hours of flattening the chisels and irons compels us to preserve that surface right to the cutting edge...yes, just like, as you noted a chisel.
If you spend the time to flatten the whole back, you never have to do the ruler trick. So it's a choice between a lot of time once, or a little time over and over. That said, I like the ruler trick because it also removes the burr on the back by wearing it away rather than breaking it off.
Great video, thanks for sharing
very good advised again
As i have worked through your approach, a quick question: i noticed two (what i assume are) trend stones and a ceramic. 1) what is the second and 2) is this all you use for chisel / plane blade setup and maintenance? I think you have covered maintenance well, just want to be comprehensive in the ask.
Terrific stuff.
As a former chef (before I realized woodworking is my real passion) I can tell you that touching up an edge is vital. Chefs always keep a sharpening steel handy. A couple passes each side, and you're back at work. Then we don't have to use the whet stones very often. Whether that edge is used to cut tomatoes or wood does not matter. The principles remains. Rules have exceptions, principles do not. Thanks, Stumpy!
looking forward to your future videos, thanks I like your style and content
All good tips James 👍 hope the hand is healing ?
I needed this video so much. Thank you lol
My biggest issue with plane irons is that it may take 30 seconds to touch it up, but it takes another 20 minutes to get the iron properly adjusted. Somehow, I just can't master it. I picked up one of these diamond stones based on your recommendation, though, and it is awesome! Haven't touched another stone since.
Maybe we'll make a video about that soon :)
I can't remember which video it was, but I saw you sharpening a router bit and you had a base that looked like a slap of black granite. Can you tell me what that exactly was, and where I might be able to get that base. Thank You.
That was a granite surface plate. I got it at Woodcraft many years ago. A granite tile from the home improvement store works pretty well, too.
@@StumpyNubs Thank You!!!!
so when is the 300 grit used?
Thanks for another informative video. But where is the ridgid sander? It's been missing in a few videos lately
Moved it.
@@StumpyNubs spot looks empty, need something sweet there.
Like a cake?
@@StumpyNubs ❤️
Or a beer fridge
Do you have any info on sharpening the blades of a Stanley #55 plough (?) plane?.
Slip stones are your friends.
Very informative, as usual. How do you clean the sludge off your diamond stone after flattening the sand stone?
I just wipe both with a cloth. If the diamond needs deeper cleaning, I rub it with a white draftsman's eraser. This works great to remove metal shavings that may build up over time too. Makes the diamonds sparkle like new.
@@StumpyNubs Great, thanks for the info!
Will you post the links to the diamond stones so I can check them out?
They are in the description below the video. You have to expand it to see it.
@@StumpyNubs Oh Weird, I did expand it yesterday and it didn't show and today it does. Thanks!
I really like your youtube channel,
I was impressed with the videos about sharpening so much, that I ordered the Trend kit you recommend.
But you said the diamond plate needs to be broken in, but not to use water to do it, so what exactly should I use to break it in?
Here
s a video about breaking in diamond stones: th-cam.com/video/Hjq-iI1ZuQI/w-d-xo.html As for water, the manufacturer says not to use it. Some do anyway. It's your call.
How do you like that Bridge City honing guide? Just bought one and have high hopes.
I talk about it in part #2- which is out today.
I'd love to see a video which combined the "best of" power and hand sharpening. For instance, hollow grind on the Tormek then follow with hand/guided bench stone work and stropping. Any thoughts on the Tormek for stropping, as it includes a leather wheel too?
The last part of this series is about hollow grinding with a bench grinder. Together, the five episodes in the series are your collective "best of." As for the Tormek, it remains my personal favorite way to both sharpen and strop. You can't beat that stropping wheel. You just walk over to it, touch the tool on the leather with no jig and in three or four seconds you've done the equivalent of a minute or more of stropping by hand. Love it!
Great video! How do you remove the wire edge on a chisel, though?
strop the back
Nice! Thanks!
Thanks Stumpy
I always use a straightedge to set the blade in a gauge to keep the main bevel constant. It saves me from having to fix a rounded angle on the cutting edge and just a few licks on a stone keeps it sharp.
Is that water or an oil on the diamond stone?
I use a lapping fluid that has an anti-rust compound in it.
@@StumpyNubs The manual that came with my diamond stones recommends water, but a few people online recommend Windex. I've tried it once, and it does keep the stones much cleaner. I'm just worried about long term effects; any thoughts? I still make sure the stones are completely dry before I put them away again.
@@kaasmeester5903 We covered this in the diamond stone tutorial, which is linked below this video. But the short answer is- there's always a small chance that water can cause rust beneath the diamond layer on the steel substrate (assuming you don't have a cheaper stone with a plastic substrate). Some stones (like Trend) recommend a lapping fluid. Others (like Paul Sellers, who uses Trend stones) use Windex anyway. I use the fluid.
Do you really need to take the chip breaker off to strop a bevel down plane blade
Great video. How about one on how best to fix mistakes. Sometimes it’s a start over disaster but also some errors can be fixed.
What's the best way to prepare a brand new (Trend 1000/3000 Grit)?
Hey James, will the same techniques hold true for knives? And, do you have any videos on sharpening them? Thanks
You might like Paul Sellers' technique for sharpening knives. Give it a search.
I’ve come to understand that you and Rob Cossman share a similar philosophy regarding sharpening. I’m using your method from 1k grit to the strop. Primarily because I rather not use water. I contemplated using DMT 8k diamond stone but they really don’t want you to use anything but water. I think it’s more about branding. They told me that petroleum based product will degrade their stones. I don’t see how.
I don't like fine diamond stones. They don't last. I made a video about why once: th-cam.com/video/re2EwwNcufo/w-d-xo.html
If you want a finer stone, go with the Shapton glass stones. That's what Rob uses (and I do occasionally, as well) amzn.to/3tVurLU
Another informative video, thank you
I have been using the Trend Mirror Paste on my leather strop. It works well but dries out to a powdery form within a day or so. Is this normal and ok or should I be dressing the leather with a conditioner?
It works just fine even if it's powdery. If it's falling off the strop, you have too much on. You can re-moisten it with a drop or two of lapping fluid or very light oil (just a little, don't soak the strop). You can do the same if, over a couple years of un-use, the jar starts to dry out. Good as new.
Found some nice 9x3 diamond "stones" on aliexpress for under $7 each. I guess I should have picked up a 3000 grit one, too. Paul Sellers seems to have been able to put these to good use, and even though these are MUCH thinner than my expensive diamond surfaces I expect they'll hold up just fine sitting on a cheap surface plate (I went with larger ones than him because a couple of my planes have really wide irons -- you can get 6x2.75 ones for $3-4 each).
I have the same Veritas jig. Did you modify it (orange block)?
That's not the Veritas jig. It's the Bridge City Tools jig: bridgecitytools.com/collections/accessories/products/hg-4-honing-guide
Here's a quick and easy way to set the angle on your plane blades to prepare for sharpening on stones. Get one of those fairly inexpensive magnetic digital angle gauges used for setting the angle on the tablesaw blade. Another idea is you can use that digital gauge when making one of those setup blocks for an even quicker angle finding setup in the future. Making it easy encourages sharpening. Work sharper not harder.
I like that idea about the angle gauge!
Hey james great video as always!
Question ; was that a taytools no 5 and if so how do you like it and how does it compare to vintage Stanley's?
Thanks
Jay
The plane in the video was a Bench Dogs #5. It's a descent plane.
@@StumpyNubs thank you for the reply sir!
You have two Tormek sharpening machines just behind you, Why not strop using one of those?
I use the Tormek and diamond stones followed by the Tormek strop to get a mirror finish on my chisels.
Thanks for the tip on the Bridge City jig.
I don't make these tutorials for me. I make them for the thousands in our audience who wish to learn how to use the resources they have.
Stumpy Nubs The Bridge City Jig is $200, if your viewers are capable of that kind of expenditures, then the Tormek is possible as well. Don’t get me wrong, I like and enjoy your channel. Keep em coming!
That wasn't the only jig I showed. We've also made videos about pretty much every type of system out there, especially the Tormek.... (They have a Tormek in the shop at Fine Woodworking Magazine. Should they never write an article about stone sharpening?) Half a million people watch our videos each month. We make content for a wide range of tastes, and we avoid giving the impression that there's only one way to do things. I think that's a good way to do things.
my chisels are a disgrace. I really need to take a day and get all my edges right so I can just strop. Thanks for the tip and the guilt trip lolololol
Yep, guilted me into it too. No better time than right now I guess.
Yeah that was me 2 days ago. I only have 4 chisels and it still took me a few hours to go through a bunch of grits and flatten the backs.
Thanks for the tips as always James. Say is the new shop completed or are you still tweaking it, now that you are alone.
I'll always be tweaking it :)
What kind of powder do you use and where to find it.
I use Trend paste: amzn.to/3dHKF2l
The Trend stone does not ship to Europe, or at least to Austria, do you by chance know how or where to get those here?
I know you love our Fisch Forstner Drills ;)
Trend is a UK company. Maybe you can order directly from them.
Whoops, didn't know that, should have done more research, thanks for the tip!
Can you talk about different steel with different types of stones?
Excellent review James. I will get right on checking out the other videos. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for this tutorial. Sharpening my chisels is something that I put off too often.
Also keep in mind that different sharpening media cut the steel differently
Not a bad system at all. I use a 1200 diamond stone and windex, rather than a strop. If you put the windex on, and then place the blade on the stone and rotate it forward (tail up, nose down) the wet will squeeze out forwards, and when it stops squeezing out, your bevel is 100% flat on the stone. You can now sharpen 10 strokes and your edge will resharpened, about 3-5sec. I also do my planes this way: flip open the level cap, lift it off, slide out the blade, leave the breaker on, sharpen a few strokes and back in. Once a week I take the time to use a sharpening jig on all my tools, including hand saws. This way they only ever need a touch up, unless you chip a blade. It doesn't take long to do all my chisels and planes and insures that I can always be working most efficiently.
Where is the "Link" you referred to?
Either in the description below the video or pinned to the top of the comments.
Since you only strop by pulling the cutting edge of a tool “away” from the strop instead of into the strop, which would very likely cut into the leather, could you then not extended the plane blade while it’s in the plane body, and simply strop it while its in place, given the direction of stropping? Save having to disassemble the plane every time..
No because the angle at which the iron is held in the plane is not equal to the angle you grind your bevel to. That angle is a product of the bed angle, and in the case of bevel-up plans there's a bed angle in addition to the bevel angle. You would essentially be dragging the cutting edge across the strop at a very high angle, which would blunt it.
Why do you have to flatten the entire back of a chisel vs using the ruler trick like you can with a plane iron?
When you place the back of the chisel flat on a work piece to do a paring cut it won't work properly if you have a micro bevel.
What Bill said.
I hollow grind all my chisels so that when I freehand sharpen I have two points of contact, makes it really easy to find the bevel.
We cover that in part #4 :)
Why not a super/ extra extra fine diamond stone over a ceramic before going to the strop?
Super fine diamond stones are a myth. 2/3 of a diamond has to be embedded in the substrate to stay on the stone. There is not enough of a diamond smaller than 1K to embed. It will fall off. The ultra-fine stones have to glue their diamonds on.
@@StumpyNubs So the DMT extra extra fine stones are junk? I have a green one that leaves an almost mirror surface for my kitchen knives. wanted to get the big bench stone as well? Should i not? I really dislike the maintenance of required on ceramic and water stones
@@jasonroets9906 I'm just giving you the facts about how stones are made. They can not properly electroplate a diamond that fine. And when you use glue you compromise the flatness of the substrate. But if it's working for you, that's what matters.
@@StumpyNubs You know more than me. that's why asked. i like diamond for all the reasons you have mentioned. I would rather use a extra fine diamond stone over any ceramic. Even if its 2/3000 approx then strop. Because its faster and gives me a better edge than going from a 1000 to the strip. But you know that already
Nice vid about stripping often. I'm more of a construction guy than a shop guy (I know... You can make fun of me) and I keep my chisels in my belt but I want to keep them ship-shape vs working then to shit conditions and waiting for a day off to pull out the stones and spend hours on them. So after watching this, I will keep a leather strop in my belt with the chisels for quick touchups.
Can I use any leather for the strop or do I have to get something special?
Also, does the paste matter? Amazon paste or Lee Valley paste?
We made a more in-depth video about stropping that answers those questions. There's a link in the description below the video.
Has anyone used a tool with a changeable cutter like a helical head?
Wish there was a KIT available that contains all required - strop, strop paste, diamond stones in most practical grits and honing guide.
Here's what I use: amzn.to/2xKNezR (I'd buy the guide separately. We'll talk more about guides in part 2)
DMT has a medium extra fine that's about 4K grit if you don't like the zen of stone mud. Apologies for mentioning a competitor to Trend, it wasn't on purpose.
Diamond stones finer that 1000 grit are not a good idea, in my opinion. For a stone to be well made and durable at least 2/3 of each individual diamond must be embedded in the nickle on the substrate. Only the tip sticks out, like an iceberg. Grit finer than 1000 is way to small to properly secure on the stone. It won't hold up. And you won't even know it because the stone feels smooth whether the diamonds fell off or not.
TH-cam did NOT alert me to this video even tho I subscribed (& rang the bell) several days ago.
TH-cam is VERY inconsistent with alerts. I recommend checking your favorite channels manually every week or two.
All this what-to-do about sharpening... I was sharpening my pocket knife when I was nine years old. IT'S NO BIG DEAL. Just get-R-done.
Why does this seem complicated to you? It's pretty simple. Not very much more complicated than your knife, except for the fact that a knife doesn't require a flat stone.
👍
You forgot to add the link to the regrinding video
You didn't say what you use on the diamond plates for fluid.
Since I’ve learned to hand sharpen freehand I have stopped making a micro bevel.
Show us the tormek
Founders All Day IPA in the koozie?
That wasn’t “a degree or two”, more like 10.