I purchased 2 of these units probably 6+ months ago now, and they are really good units. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxcr5WULFU6yC9UUKc_cdNJT9jGa6VxO1l They are great for 3d printer plastic dry boxes, freezers, vehicles, gun safes, and more. The unit in the picture was pulled from my deep freezer and moved into my truck center console (monitoring humidity for water leak). It took a few hours to thaw and normalize temp and humidity reading going from those extremes, as expected, but it handled it well and is still running great.
Hi. Great video. I want to put one in my basement with 240v electric. It's there a timer to turn it off after a certain amount of time, in case I forget? I don't want to use a schedule. I want to just turn it on/off remotely but also have an auto off feature. Electric heat is expensive here! Thanks
Thanks for this. Your video is really helpful even after reading Mysa’s instructions many times 🤣. Really appreciate your clear explanation and how you go over the wires many many times. It’s helps someone who has zero idea very much
Helpful video. 2 questions: 1. Why Mysa vs. Sinope? 2. I have rental units. Can you control Mysa via the app when heat is too high or left on during the day? I’m in California and energy is $$$$$&&. Thanks.
Hi! I am not sure what the Sinope system is, but the mysa thermostats can be remotly managed easily. If renters or air BnB guests leave it on you can certainly turn them down. Either that or run a schedule that turns the thermostats down each day no matter what. I set up our floor heater in the bathroom to have a set point that is like 45 degrees so every evening around 10pm it effectively turns it off no matter what. Helps when we wander out of the bathroom and leave the floor on without thinking.
I had an H2 error, double checked everything, the wiring is correct. In the end, i was using an old baseboard heater system. V2 would not work because it needs more tha. 3800 watts at 240v flowing through thermostat. I used V1 mysa, it worked well.
I have electric ceiling heat, but I keep looking at these wondering if theyll work with them? I think it should work in theory, its the same old thermostat like the old ones you got there. But I have no clue about how much wattage it consumes.
Great video: I’m still confused on my setup. I have 2 red and 2 black to Heater (Which color wires are for what?) I have 1 red 1 black to Panel Thank you
Do you have two heaters or a heater with two elements? that might explain it. How was it wired before? I'd duplicate how it was wired before just replace the thermostat.
I bought these, however when I went to install, there was another wire in the back of my dial thermostat. Not black, not red, or colored. It’s more a copperish wire. Is that a grounding wire? Where would I attach that to the new one?
@@notmyrealhandlewhich is why I haven’t installed them. Because I don’t know. But all the advertising I saw for these before ordering them was that I should be able to do it myself. Hence why I bought them.
I pulled out the old thermostat. There are 4 white wires connected to the old one. I'm not sure how to wire in the new thermostat. Any help would be great
Hey, excellent information. Questions: I’m planning to purchase a house with electric baseboard heating, current owner says he spends less than his neighborhood who have oil. Is that your situation also? I’m worry that electric heating is not efficient for New York winters. Thank you.
Best way to know the real answer is to ask for the utility bill! Typically electrical resistance heating is the most expensive way to heat. That being said I am not familiar with heating oil prices which could be very high also. We don't commonly use heating oil in Colorado. Our Baseboard heaters supplement our large wood stove as well as two direct vent propane stoves. We use very little electricity with them as a result.
@@meadnchili I purchased it and tried to install. I had 5 zones, in some zone works, but it doesn’t in others. I get an H2 error. Also, the ones that worked, I wired different than you. I have the 2 cables on the Load and the others with the red and black. What would you recommend for the ones with the H2 error? Thank you.
I'm considering Cadet or King PAW wall heaters to replace the three baseboard heaters in our basement. Do you think the mysa would work with those types?
Thanks for the great video! The wiring is not intuitive. Wouldn’t having 120v always wired to one of the loads due to both connecting to the red wire result in the heater always being on and using electricity? Seems like I would have to turn off the breaker in summer but I’d like to still see the ambient temperature in the room. Does it take both load wires to be hot for the baseboard to consume energy?
Hi so I have the same setup as you two heaters in parallel with the two wires from the heaters and the two wires from the breaker box. When I checked with Mysa they have two separate lines coming in for the heaters (one for each heater). So saying you need six wires total. There is an image on their site. Is your set up ok if they are saying you need a separate wire set for each heater? Thanks for your input.
Functionally it should be the same either way assuming the wire sets are sized appropriately. You can either put them in parallel at the heaters and run one wire set or run two wire sets and put them in parallel at the thermostat. If you are working with something that was already wired up my assumption would be that the wires are sized appropriately. Whatever you do just confirm the thermostat can handle the combined wattage of the two heaters.
Great video. I have a total of 8 electric heater in our condo and we want to convert to digital. Especially since our winter bill is very high. Our heaters are manually control in the base. There is not thermostat around the house. Will this work in my situation? and do i need to get one per heater since they are in different location. Thank you all
Hi meadnchili. I've got a mysa thermostat. My configuration on old thermostat is two black wires are connected to the black lead on my old thermostat via a pig tail. I assume this is power or L1. and there is another black wire connected to a red wire on my old thermostat. I assume that is the load. and then i have three white wires that are connected by a wirenut. So, I should add a pigtail and put that on l2 of the new Mysa thermostat? Of note there is another heater in the other room that won't work if i separate the white wires. Thanks....for your help
My guess would be that the single black wire is the power, and the two connected together are the loads. Somebody could have hooked up the old thermostat backwards. You should find a way to verify. Maybe see if the single suspected power wire has power with a multimeter when disconnected from all others. Then you could connect the single black wire to each single suspected load wire individually and see if each one of the heaters turns on individually. That would tell you where they go and what they do.
Man, I'm confused. I have a zoned line voltage 120v setup and I just want one damn thermostat to get me up to the 21st century and tell me the temp but with a higher voltage setup you're so limited. For more options you gotta somehow install a 24v transformer but I don't know where the hell my furnace is (I own a condo). I can only find a water heater - zero furnace.
I only have two wires at the thermostat. 120v from the panel. The other 120v is at the baseboard heater. How do I hook the Mysa thermostat with just 2 wires with only 120 at the thermostat?
You will need a neutral wire at the thermostat so it can be powered. In 120v applications it gets its power from a single 120v wire and neutral that come from the load center. Then the third wire on the thermostat is the load and goes to the heater. Typically you have one cable with both neutral and a 120v wire that comes to the thermostat from the load center then it continues to the heater after that. It sounds like somebody may have wired yours backwards, cable to heater from panel then to thermostat.
I would like to run two baseboards as well, I checked the wattage and it is ok wattage wise, my question is, can I connect both wires coming from the heaters at the thermostat rather than daisy chaining them and then going to the thermostat with one set of wires. I hope this is clear enough and thank you in advance for any info you could provide
Sure! no reason why you couldn’t wire them in parallel at the thermostat. Double check wattage isn’t over what the thermostat can handle and don’t put too many wires together using one wire nut. Double check how many of your gauge fit. For example the red nuts can only take 3 10ga wires.
meadnchili gotcha, thank you very much for the quick reply, so say it were too many for one wire nut, could I make a jumper for it then? I’m sure the terminology jumper is not correct but I hope you know what I mean
I have also 4 wires. 2 of them (white and black) they have power and 2 of them they don’t (black and white also) I have 1 black with power connected on the L1, one black without power on load and 2 white wires (one with power and one without) on the L2.. the thermostat turns on for a little while and after shut off. Few hours later on again and few minutes later off. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong. Anyone can help? I should try to connect one black wire with power on L1, one white wire with power on L2 and both (black and white) wires (they are coming from the baseboard) on the load wire?
Hi meadnchili- been struggling with one thing in my wiring. It appears I have the same wiring as you exactly, so good and is 240V. But when I test the wire you are hooking to load should that wire be dead or have 120v? I am getting 120v but know it is the wire running to the heater and not from the panel. I have the two from the panel each at 120v. one of those is also connected to one of the wires running to the heater just like your L2 and then Will connect the other to L1. I am just really curious why the 3rd wire that clearly runs to the heater also has power? Is it because the other wire going to the heater is connected to 2nd leg 120v and because the way these are wired at the heater itself the current comes back through the 3rd wire into the gang box? I just don’t want to fry this thing.
The wire you are talking about will have voltage when the other wire from the heater is hooked up to 120. It flows through the heater. It’s is doing what you are saying at the end of your comment above.
My digital thermostat is bathroom last only (2-3) year's. Humidity etc. played big role. 3 wire with constant power on heater in bathroom I am not big fan either to risky. Mutch better 4 to disconnect power when not in use.
The Nest thermostat is for a direct vent gas stove that's in the same room. I added a relay and power supply so it'd work with the millivolt setup on the stove.
@@meadnchili curious why you didn't consider using a relay for Nest to work on the baseboard heater directly? Would you make a comparison video for Nest and Mysa?
The app sucks. It's a pain to create a schedule. You must remember to "copy day". If not you would think the schedule would work for one day only. Not! You also have to give the schedule a name! But wait! After that you also have to apply the schedule you finally successuly named and saved.
Assuming 240v setup... Do you have the baseboard heater wires hooked up with one tied to the incoming supply leg and the thermostat red wire and the other one hooked to the black load wire from the thermostat? Double check that the red wire is hooked up to both one load wire as well as one heater wire.
Useless for my condo. I have 4 individual heaters with a dial 1-5 heat adjustment. I thought this was for individual thermostats for each heater not a wall thermostat.
I purchased 2 of these units probably 6+ months ago now, and they are really good units. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxcr5WULFU6yC9UUKc_cdNJT9jGa6VxO1l They are great for 3d printer plastic dry boxes, freezers, vehicles, gun safes, and more. The unit in the picture was pulled from my deep freezer and moved into my truck center console (monitoring humidity for water leak). It took a few hours to thaw and normalize temp and humidity reading going from those extremes, as expected, but it handled it well and is still running great.
Hi. Great video. I want to put one in my basement with 240v electric. It's there a timer to turn it off after a certain amount of time, in case I forget? I don't want to use a schedule. I want to just turn it on/off remotely but also have an auto off feature. Electric heat is expensive here! Thanks
Thanks for this. Your video is really helpful even after reading Mysa’s instructions many times 🤣. Really appreciate your clear explanation and how you go over the wires many many times. It’s helps someone who has zero idea very much
How many amps are they rated for?
Thanks man!!! Very helpful explanation. Makes the job easier I appreciate it.
How do you know which wire goes to baseboard and which one goes to the breaker?
Helpful video. 2 questions: 1. Why Mysa vs. Sinope? 2. I have rental units. Can you control Mysa via the app when heat is too high or left on during the day? I’m in California and energy is $$$$$&&. Thanks.
Hi! I am not sure what the Sinope system is, but the mysa thermostats can be remotly managed easily. If renters or air BnB guests leave it on you can certainly turn them down. Either that or run a schedule that turns the thermostats down each day no matter what. I set up our floor heater in the bathroom to have a set point that is like 45 degrees so every evening around 10pm it effectively turns it off no matter what. Helps when we wander out of the bathroom and leave the floor on without thinking.
Hi Thanks for the video, I am fedup with Google nest, is Mysa better then then google nest
I had an H2 error, double checked everything, the wiring is correct. In the end, i was using an old baseboard heater system. V2 would not work because it needs more tha. 3800 watts at 240v flowing through thermostat. I used V1 mysa, it worked well.
It's 3800 MAX watts
Looks good
Does it work for 120 volts
Yes
I have electric ceiling heat, but I keep looking at these wondering if theyll work with them? I think it should work in theory, its the same old thermostat like the old ones you got there. But I have no clue about how much wattage it consumes.
How do I know if I have 120V or 240V?!
I just purchased a home that has these thermostat s with no paper work can I get them to work ?
Great video: I’m still confused on my setup.
I have 2 red and 2 black to Heater
(Which color wires are for what?)
I have 1 red 1 black to Panel
Thank you
Do you have two heaters or a heater with two elements? that might explain it. How was it wired before? I'd duplicate how it was wired before just replace the thermostat.
Join the confused club
So one of the lines is running constant into the baseboard heater even if not using, not too convenient I would say
I bought these, however when I went to install, there was another wire in the back of my dial thermostat. Not black, not red, or colored. It’s more a copperish wire. Is that a grounding wire? Where would I attach that to the new one?
@@notmyrealhandlewhich is why I haven’t installed them. Because I don’t know. But all the advertising I saw for these before ordering them was that I should be able to do it myself. Hence why I bought them.
I pulled out the old thermostat. There are 4 white wires connected to the old one. I'm not sure how to wire in the new thermostat. Any help would be great
Hey, excellent information. Questions: I’m planning to purchase a house with electric baseboard heating, current owner says he spends less than his neighborhood who have oil. Is that your situation also? I’m worry that electric heating is not efficient for New York winters. Thank you.
Best way to know the real answer is to ask for the utility bill! Typically electrical resistance heating is the most expensive way to heat. That being said I am not familiar with heating oil prices which could be very high also. We don't commonly use heating oil in Colorado. Our Baseboard heaters supplement our large wood stove as well as two direct vent propane stoves. We use very little electricity with them as a result.
@@meadnchili I purchased it and tried to install. I had 5 zones, in some zone works, but it doesn’t in others. I get an H2 error. Also, the ones that worked, I wired different than you. I have the 2 cables on the Load and the others with the red and black. What would you recommend for the ones with the H2 error? Thank you.
I'm considering Cadet or King PAW wall heaters to replace the three baseboard heaters in our basement. Do you think the mysa would work with those types?
I'm researching this as well. I'll record the process.
Mysa stated it supports fan-forced connectors, i.e. most register sized/wall heaters
My baseboard heater (208/230 ) wall thermostat has only 2 wire. Any suggestion?
No ground wire?
Does it work with 2 wires
AWESOME VIDEO! Thanks!
Thanks for the video but Why does it look to me like that heater will never get more than 120 volts?
Two legs of 120 across one another = 240
Thanks for the great video! The wiring is not intuitive. Wouldn’t having 120v always wired to one of the loads due to both connecting to the red wire result in the heater always being on and using electricity? Seems like I would have to turn off the breaker in summer but I’d like to still see the ambient temperature in the room. Does it take both load wires to be hot for the baseboard to consume energy?
Great tutorial video!! I've been thinking of grabbing one of these!! Thank you sir!
This video helped a lot
Hi so I have the same setup as you two heaters in parallel with the two wires from the heaters and the two wires from the breaker box. When I checked with Mysa they have two separate lines coming in for the heaters (one for each heater). So saying you need six wires total. There is an image on their site. Is your set up ok if they are saying you need a separate wire set for each heater? Thanks for your input.
Functionally it should be the same either way assuming the wire sets are sized appropriately. You can either put them in parallel at the heaters and run one wire set or run two wire sets and put them in parallel at the thermostat. If you are working with something that was already wired up my assumption would be that the wires are sized appropriately. Whatever you do just confirm the thermostat can handle the combined wattage of the two heaters.
Great video. I have a total of 8 electric heater in our condo and we want to convert to digital. Especially since our winter bill is very high. Our heaters are manually control in the base. There is not thermostat around the house. Will this work in my situation? and do i need to get one per heater since they are in different location. Thank you all
You’d need to add a spot on the wall for the thermostats to go that is in line with the power source.
Hi meadnchili. I've got a mysa thermostat. My configuration on old thermostat is two black wires are connected to the black lead on my old thermostat via a pig tail. I assume this is power or L1. and there is another black wire connected to a red wire on my old thermostat. I assume that is the load. and then i have three white wires that are connected by a wirenut. So, I should add a pigtail and put that on l2 of the new Mysa thermostat?
Of note there is another heater in the other room that won't work if i separate the white wires.
Thanks....for your help
My guess would be that the single black wire is the power, and the two connected together are the loads. Somebody could have hooked up the old thermostat backwards. You should find a way to verify. Maybe see if the single suspected power wire has power with a multimeter when disconnected from all others. Then you could connect the single black wire to each single suspected load wire individually and see if each one of the heaters turns on individually. That would tell you where they go and what they do.
Can I set up on of these with baseboard heaters with knobs only and not a wall temperature gauge? If so, how? Thanks!!
Man, I'm confused. I have a zoned line voltage 120v setup and I just want one damn thermostat to get me up to the 21st century and tell me the temp but with a higher voltage setup you're so limited. For more options you gotta somehow install a 24v transformer but I don't know where the hell my furnace is (I own a condo). I can only find a water heater - zero furnace.
Why dosent it work with 5G and only 2.4 G??
I only have two wires at the thermostat. 120v from the panel. The other 120v is at the baseboard heater. How do I hook the Mysa thermostat with just 2 wires with only 120 at the thermostat?
You will need a neutral wire at the thermostat so it can be powered. In 120v applications it gets its power from a single 120v wire and neutral that come from the load center. Then the third wire on the thermostat is the load and goes to the heater. Typically you have one cable with both neutral and a 120v wire that comes to the thermostat from the load center then it continues to the heater after that. It sounds like somebody may have wired yours backwards, cable to heater from panel then to thermostat.
question. 2 wires from your line delivering 240. 2 wires going to your load . what happened to the second load wire?
nevermind. i see you doubled up on the second marette. good video. thanks
So did you have to replace the dial thermostat in every room?
Yes I replaced them all.
I would like to run two baseboards as well, I checked the wattage and it is ok wattage wise, my question is, can I connect both wires coming from the heaters at the thermostat rather than daisy chaining them and then going to the thermostat with one set of wires. I hope this is clear enough and thank you in advance for any info you could provide
Sure! no reason why you couldn’t wire them in parallel at the thermostat. Double check wattage isn’t over what the thermostat can handle and don’t put too many wires together using one wire nut. Double check how many of your gauge fit. For example the red nuts can only take 3 10ga wires.
meadnchili gotcha, thank you very much for the quick reply, so say it were too many for one wire nut, could I make a jumper for it then? I’m sure the terminology jumper is not correct but I hope you know what I mean
meadnchili I am using 12 gauge wire, guess I should have mentioned that, so hopefully the wire nuts can handle that
@@caseyritter3185 the packaging the wire nuts come in should give you the recommended number of wires and gauge for each style nut
I have also 4 wires. 2 of them (white and black) they have power and 2 of them they don’t (black and white also)
I have 1 black with power connected on the L1, one black without power on load and 2 white wires (one with power and one without) on the L2.. the thermostat turns on for a little while and after shut off. Few hours later on again and few minutes later off. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong. Anyone can help?
I should try to connect one black wire with power on L1, one white wire with power on L2 and both (black and white) wires (they are coming from the baseboard) on the load wire?
Hi meadnchili- been struggling with one thing in my wiring. It appears I have the same wiring as you exactly, so good and is 240V. But when I test the wire you are hooking to load should that wire be dead or have 120v? I am getting 120v but know it is the wire running to the heater and not from the panel. I have the two from the panel each at 120v. one of those is also connected to one of the wires running to the heater just like your L2 and then Will connect the other to L1. I am just really curious why the 3rd wire that clearly runs to the heater also has power? Is it because the other wire going to the heater is connected to 2nd leg 120v and because the way these are wired at the heater itself the current comes back through the 3rd wire into the gang box? I just don’t want to fry this thing.
The wire you are talking about will have voltage when the other wire from the heater is hooked up to 120. It flows through the heater. It’s is doing what you are saying at the end of your comment above.
Appreciate the video.
Hi is there any on and off button on the app? I didnt notice any.
There is, when you open the app you see all of your thermostats. Click on one. to the right of the temperature is the on/off button.
Thank you bro help me a lot..
My digital thermostat is bathroom last only (2-3) year's. Humidity etc. played big role.
3 wire with constant power on heater in bathroom I am not big fan either to risky. Mutch better 4 to disconnect power when not in use.
Hi ! What are you using the nest thermostat for ? I have a gas fireplace and unfortunately, since it's a milivolt, cannot use a mysa with it :(
The Nest thermostat is for a direct vent gas stove that's in the same room. I added a relay and power supply so it'd work with the millivolt setup on the stove.
@@meadnchili curious why you didn't consider using a relay for Nest to work on the baseboard heater directly? Would you make a comparison video for Nest and Mysa?
Would you please make a video about a thermostat for the millivolt gas fireplace!
@@lisawright8956 Would love to see as well! @Meadnchili
Do you know if this will work with a tankless boiler?
You’d need to contact Mysa for an answer but my guess is no.
Can you share a link to the types of baseboards you have?
I used Cadet Softheat Baseboard heaters. They are available (in the US) at the big box stores
Can i use this mysa thermostat for an oil boiler?
No
The app sucks. It's a pain to create a schedule. You must remember to "copy day". If not you would think the schedule would work for one day only. Not! You also have to give the schedule a name! But wait! After that you also have to apply the schedule you finally successuly named and saved.
Every thing is wired & getting power to Mysa but baseboard heat not turning on any help is appreciated
Assuming 240v setup... Do you have the baseboard heater wires hooked up with one tied to the incoming supply leg and the thermostat red wire and the other one hooked to the black load wire from the thermostat? Double check that the red wire is hooked up to both one load wire as well as one heater wire.
Useless for my condo. I have 4 individual heaters with a dial 1-5 heat adjustment. I thought this was for individual thermostats for each heater not a wall thermostat.
That’s how this works… he had one in every room in his home with a base board
Still totally lost. This wasn't helpful at all.
How do I know if I have 120V or 240V?!