My grandad used boiled linseed oil and cheap toilet bowl wax seals (Now petroleum based / not bees anymore) in a metal coffee can, placed on electric defroster heater (used to defrost freezers w/o timers & heaters) but brushed it thin on his handsaws, knifes, axes, metal tools hanging on nails when really warm and created a coating like cosmoline like used on old firearms new in box. Different ratios of linseed oil to wax, warmer to melt but not heated. Linseed oil was used with various paper to make “Linoleum” and these companies later made gaskets for auto engines. In the lates 60’s - early 70’s I remember opening a set of gaskets and seeing “Armstrong” stamped on intake gaskets and others. While seals, accelerator pumps used leather. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
boiled linseed oil is a drying oil. This means it polymerizes in open air which means it oxidizes to form a type of plastic coating not too dissimilar to paint. You can call it paint without pigment
@@MrLuigge bad idea. Sugar n all. Most colors won't survive the heat. Buuut. Actual artists oil paint is mostly based on linseed oil too. So yeah just pigments or oil paint. However then you probably better just let it dry (weeks n months) or try much lower heat.
@@MrLuigge It was as I suspected but I had to try. Liquid food colorant is water soluble and doesn't mix with oil. It's like trying to mix oil and water. Tried with Dr Oetker blue food colorant and it didn't work at all. Now I've got a blue finger cause it sticks very well to skin.🙂
@@skunkjobb why not try oil based stains or dyes? Not sure if they’ll stick to metal but they work weird with wood too so good luck lol. I occasionally use them with my first layer of BLO+mineral spirits (1:1) on bare wood. If I add the dye or colorant just use enough to get the color you want on a test piece of wood. I find a 2:2:1 (BLO:MS:stain) ratio works great with stains. Not sure about heating it or expecting it to stay. Oh, and never breath the fumes of BLO smoke. They put cobalt in the oil to accelerate polymerization and cobalt fumes are toxic and cause horrific birth defects in the poor souls who survive long enough to f*ck after they mine it.
Was about to say the same thing. I don't see many this style, but we use them all the time. That's also why it's stamped with the size of threaded rod it takes, as you can get them in different sizes.
Yeah I've got an 89 dodge truck that's got some wear on the hood, some spots down to bare metal but it's got a good looking patina to it. I plan on coating it in the same mixture to protect it from rust or further wear, but I've been procrastinating because I'm afraid I'll screw it up somehow. I park it in a carport but because it's open air I worry that dust or debris or even birds or cats might ruin it
Make sure to dispose of any rags or brushes you use with this stuff in a solid steel container or burn them in a fire pit, linseed oil will very readily self combust when left to dry on a porous material like cloth or foam. Had barely a tablespoon on a couple paper towels start smoking up in my trash can, if I didn't notice it would've burned my house down.
Very true. It's called oxidation, and all vegetable oils oxidize even the supposedly edible oils. That's one of the reasons they are not good for consumption. Fats do not oxidize. All forms of oxidation cause heat to some degree. A fire is oxidation of its fuel. The reason oily rags spontaneously catch fire is because they can hold the heat inside the crumpled rag.
I sprayed the underside of my truck with this stuff. Still looks good that was 7 years ago. It does stink for about 2 weeks takes a while to dry not like I can stick my truck in an oven.
It's a BEAM CLAMP. The threads on one side are for the bolt to clamp it to the beam and the other side is for a length of ALL THREAD to hang things like overhead furnaces and industrial ductwork as well as lighting and piping etc. Very nice tips.... Thank you..
@@Okiijiida Just an update to this comment. Raw Linseed oil is just flax seed oil, it is entirely non-toxic. What was used in this video was Boiled Linseed Oil, but it isn't exactly just boiled linseed oil, it has plasticizers, hardeners and other heavy metals added to it. It would be considered mildly toxic in large quantities and personally I wouldn't use an oven used for food in fear any spills could off-gas at the very least bad smells. The good news is it contains zero VOCs, so risks are minimal, though I don't like to take chances with my health. :D
I've been doing this but in opposite....i clean off my hammers...use propane torch to lightly heat the metal up to 300 to 500 deg f and then dip or apply linseed oil...let cool down...gives all my hammers a nice brown look that prevents rust.
I like using it on wooden handles. Sand the lacquer off first, then coat with boiled linseed oil. Feels better to the hand. I've always heard it was a great rust preventative but did not know you were supposed to bake it. Thanks for sharing.
Most mix it with wax (and some mineral spirits) to massage onto warm steel. Linseed oil is just non-food grade flaxseed oil. Boiled linseed oil is just that lower grade flaxseed oil with metallic driers. You can season cast iron skillets with food grade flax seed oil and it makes a very hard (but brittle) coating. I’d avoid using hardware store bought boiled linseed oil on food surfaces and NEVER on s cooking surface. The metallic drier used these days is cobalt. The name comes from when they used to add lead back in the day and the oil had to be ‘boiled’ before it would mix. They never actually boiled it but the name stuck. Cobalt fumes are really really toxic so only heat it past it’s smoke point under a fan and outdoors. Some of the most horrific birth defects are found in children of cobalt miners that live long enough to procreate.
This is similar to seasoning a cast iron cookware. I would use avocado oil instead of Linseed oil for the the very high (525 degree F) smoke point and the resulting polymerized coating is much stronger. I would want to do that three to four times to get the maximum rust protection and in case of cast iron cookware, non-stick.
How long and at what temperature do you season your cast iron? If it has the polymerized coating can you wash with soap and water? Or leave out the soap?
@@chelsibovingdon573 bake cast iron cookware at 500 degree F and an hour and let cool in the oven. Do that three to four times. All my cast iron cookware are non-stick and washing them requires just hot water. I wipe dry them and warm them up then apply a light coat of oil.
the difference though is that "flax seed oil" is guaranteed to be raw linseed oil. you can't use "boiled" linseed on a pan because of the heavy metal dryers
@@5naxalotl correct. 'boiled linseed oil' isn't food safe, it has a bunch of drying agents added to help speed up the polymerization. Labelling is so misleading! Same issue with 'mink' oil for treating later - unless you pay for 100% pure mink oil, which is $$$, you're usually getting neatsfood oil, maybe even silicone, and a tiny % of actual mink oil...
Can I do this with less heat? I want to use linseed oil on my slip joint pliers and channel locks. But they have rubber handles at the bottom. I think I can hit the top with a heat gun but i dont want o leave it in the oven. I was thinking boiled linseed oil and then light to medium heat gun targeted at the metal and then stop to let it cool if I feel the plastic grip covering the metal getting too hot... I guess its not a huge deal if the plastic grip comes off since its metal underneath, its just for comfort.
Great video, thanks for sharing. I'm definitely going to test this but I'm curious about longevity. I'd be curious to know if you gouged the coating, is it self healing? I wonder if a quick hit from a torch in the area would cause it to reflow and self-heal, or if another light application of linseed oil and then the torch would do anything. Basically a process to avoid having to rebake it
it's not self healing but it will take a new layer well. heat or not heat both fine. not heat very very slow with raw linseed. "boiled" oil has metallic dryers
Awesome video! What would you say is more durable the linseed oil or the cold blueing you used? If i bake it in the kitchen does it put off a strong odor?
Do you know if you can do the same with tung oil? I know tung oil another type of 'drying oil' which is used very similar to Linseed oil in wood finishing. I believe Tung oil dries/polymerizes faster at room temperature on wood, so I'm thinking it'll work well in an oven on metal as well?
I actually have an old radiator I would like to be gold. I’m planning on having my powder coat guy sand blast it then do something like this. Just want to have a slightly “golder” appearance, do you think if I backed it at a lower temp or a short time period I could get a more good appearance?
I am making a sign for the lane at our cabin. it is a large metal sheet that I am adding PVC cut-outs bolted to the metal to create the design and graphics. I have rusted the metal to make the white PVC graphics really pop, but a friend told me that the rust is not going to stay on there (IE: it would wash off??) because the rust is only surface rust if that makes sense?? Like I want the rust (rich, bright red and brown tones) to stay just like it is, and maybe this is the product or process I need to try to preserve this appearance?
A year late but you can simply spray your sign with clear. Matt clear if you don't want to change the appearance, or gloss (might be too reflective). That said I've never heard of rust washing off LOL most of us only WISH it was that easy!
I will dry just in air too, but it takes a few days to be dry to the touch. Probably more like a week to fully cure all the way I imagine. If you use raw linseed oil (not boiled) it will take much much longer, so not practical. I used boiled linseed to rust protect a beat-up old chain used for a saltwater boat and let it air dry. It worked well. Almost like a clearcoat, and I haven't seen any new rust on I restored it.. My result was a bit less amber I think, so possibly baking it may bring out the color more - but its hard to say because the chain was very dark to begin with.I hear linseed oil generally yellows a bit over time. Wouldn't be surprised if heat speeds up that process dramatically.
Can I paint on boiled linseed oil to a raw steel desk- 58" long. I cannot put it in an oven since it's huge. Can or should I take a blow dryer to it once I apply the coating- 1 coat or 2? I was going to powder coat but the raw metal looks amazing. I bought square metal legs online (2) and 3 50" support beams at a local steel store and had it welded together. Big, heavy glass on top. Awesome desk. I just have to keep the steel from rusting. Open to all suggestions. Trying to avoid toxic clear coats, poly, etc. I like natural. THANKS!
If you already have the answer please disregard.... You DO NOT have to bake linseed oil ... It wil polymerase as soon as it hits oxygen ... It WILL however take quite awhile to cure ... It will take on more of a clear coat though ...
@@papimiami1938 Thanks. I made a paste with fractionated coconut oil and beeswax. Applied it like wax after cleaning the metal. It is indoors (desk frame/glass top) and so far, so good. If it rusts a little here and there, so be it. Looks great. Can support 2,000lbs. easily. Bought legs online- square steel, then welded 3 supports.
@@MOAB-UT that's awesome ... I am a ironworker by trade so it sounds like a cool project ( we build all our tables also ) ... especially if it will hold up that much weight
@@papimiami1938 Fun project. Glass top is thick so 100lbs. so I wanted it to be strong. Legs were $200, thick 1x3" steel raw. 54" 1x3" raw tubular steel to go across. Local expert welded it up in a day- 2 across the top, and one down just above the floor in the back of the desk he said would help with stability. This dude welded the world trade center- real pro and did a great job...for $100!
It should be pretty decent without curing in the oven, but it'll take a few weeks to dry. Plus the excess oil is super dangerous if you're soaking it up with rags, it's a very energetic exothermic reaction as it dries and will spontaneously combust in open air.
My grandad used boiled linseed oil and cheap toilet bowl wax seals (Now petroleum based / not bees anymore) in a metal coffee can, placed on electric defroster heater (used to defrost freezers w/o timers & heaters) but brushed it thin on his handsaws, knifes, axes, metal tools hanging on nails when really warm and created a coating like cosmoline like used on old firearms new in box. Different ratios of linseed oil to wax, warmer to melt but not heated.
Linseed oil was used with various paper to make “Linoleum” and these companies later made gaskets for auto engines. In the lates 60’s - early 70’s I remember opening a set of gaskets and seeing “Armstrong” stamped on intake gaskets and others. While seals, accelerator pumps used leather.
ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
boiled linseed oil is a drying oil. This means it polymerizes in open air which means it oxidizes to form a type of plastic coating not too dissimilar to paint. You can call it paint without pigment
could you apply some kind of food colorant and make it a different color?
@@MrLuigge bad idea. Sugar n all. Most colors won't survive the heat. Buuut. Actual artists oil paint is mostly based on linseed oil too. So yeah just pigments or oil paint. However then you probably better just let it dry (weeks n months) or try much lower heat.
@@MrLuigge It was as I suspected but I had to try. Liquid food colorant is water soluble and doesn't mix with oil. It's like trying to mix oil and water. Tried with Dr Oetker blue food colorant and it didn't work at all. Now I've got a blue finger cause it sticks very well to skin.🙂
@@skunkjobb why not try oil based stains or dyes? Not sure if they’ll stick to metal but they work weird with wood too so good luck lol. I occasionally use them with my first layer of BLO+mineral spirits (1:1) on bare wood. If I add the dye or colorant just use enough to get the color you want on a test piece of wood. I find a 2:2:1 (BLO:MS:stain) ratio works great with stains. Not sure about heating it or expecting it to stay. Oh, and never breath the fumes of BLO smoke. They put cobalt in the oil to accelerate polymerization and cobalt fumes are toxic and cause horrific birth defects in the poor souls who survive long enough to f*ck after they mine it.
It is a beam clamp used to hang pipe using a 3/8” all-thred rod.
Always wondered! I use it as a tiny C-Clamp. Thanks for letting us know what it is!
@@1D10CRACY Ohh .. IC .. guessing is supposed to have a second bolt to pinch the beam ...
@@VorpalForceField The second threaded hole gets the threaded rod that drops down to hang whatever on.
@@Blazer02LS cool deal good to know TY
Was about to say the same thing. I don't see many this style, but we use them all the time. That's also why it's stamped with the size of threaded rod it takes, as you can get them in different sizes.
I actually spray linseed oil mixed with mineral spirits as an under coating, works great! Truck 20 years old and the frame exhibits no rust.
Cool idea, What's your mix ratio?
Yeah I've got an 89 dodge truck that's got some wear on the hood, some spots down to bare metal but it's got a good looking patina to it. I plan on coating it in the same mixture to protect it from rust or further wear, but I've been procrastinating because I'm afraid I'll screw it up somehow. I park it in a carport but because it's open air I worry that dust or debris or even birds or cats might ruin it
Make sure to dispose of any rags or brushes you use with this stuff in a solid steel container or burn them in a fire pit, linseed oil will very readily self combust when left to dry on a porous material like cloth or foam. Had barely a tablespoon on a couple paper towels start smoking up in my trash can, if I didn't notice it would've burned my house down.
Really? Never heard of
Very true. It's called oxidation, and all vegetable oils oxidize even the supposedly edible oils. That's one of the reasons they are not good for consumption. Fats do not oxidize.
All forms of oxidation cause heat to some degree. A fire is oxidation of its fuel.
The reason oily rags spontaneously catch fire is because they can hold the heat inside the crumpled rag.
Years ago Linseed oil was used for everything! Great stuff!!!
I sprayed the underside of my truck with this stuff. Still looks good that was 7 years ago. It does stink for about 2 weeks takes a while to dry not like I can stick my truck in an oven.
It's a BEAM CLAMP. The threads on one side are for the bolt to clamp it to the beam and the other side is for a length of ALL THREAD to hang things like overhead furnaces and industrial ductwork as well as lighting and piping etc. Very nice tips.... Thank you..
It is indeed. This one is marked for 3/8-16 thread, which is the thread pitch on the allthread that would be hung below it.
The linseed oil polymerizes to a solid. The heat speeds the reaction up. It becomes a plastic like coating.
And you call yourself "NoExpert"! ;) Thanks for the explanation!
@@1D10CRACY Same idea as your cast iron pan
"As long as your wife is not looking" I am the wife, watching this to get ideas! lol
well wife, dont use oven you're gona be cooking food for eats in. Free radicals are real
@@Okiijiida Just an update to this comment. Raw Linseed oil is just flax seed oil, it is entirely non-toxic. What was used in this video was Boiled Linseed Oil, but it isn't exactly just boiled linseed oil, it has plasticizers, hardeners and other heavy metals added to it. It would be considered mildly toxic in large quantities and personally I wouldn't use an oven used for food in fear any spills could off-gas at the very least bad smells. The good news is it contains zero VOCs, so risks are minimal, though I don't like to take chances with my health. :D
I've been doing this but in opposite....i clean off my hammers...use propane torch to lightly heat the metal up to 300 to 500 deg f and then dip or apply linseed oil...let cool down...gives all my hammers a nice brown look that prevents rust.
You should add the warning about disposal of rags used with linseed oil.
It's on the jug of oil but most people don't read it
Thanks for the information! This worked well for me. Baked the linseed oil in my kitchen oven at 400F for an hour. Slight smell but nothing unpleasant
I like using it on wooden handles. Sand the lacquer off first, then coat with boiled linseed oil. Feels better to the hand. I've always heard it was a great rust preventative but did not know you were supposed to bake it. Thanks for sharing.
Most mix it with wax (and some mineral spirits) to massage onto warm steel. Linseed oil is just non-food grade flaxseed oil. Boiled linseed oil is just that lower grade flaxseed oil with metallic driers. You can season cast iron skillets with food grade flax seed oil and it makes a very hard (but brittle) coating. I’d avoid using hardware store bought boiled linseed oil on food surfaces and NEVER on s cooking surface. The metallic drier used these days is cobalt. The name comes from when they used to add lead back in the day and the oil had to be ‘boiled’ before it would mix. They never actually boiled it but the name stuck. Cobalt fumes are really really toxic so only heat it past it’s smoke point under a fan and outdoors. Some of the most horrific birth defects are found in children of cobalt miners that live long enough to procreate.
Looks like a bridge clamp. I’m about to coat some steel in boiled linseed oil today so let’s see how it goes!
Cool application. This is how you season cast iron but at a higher temp. Didnt realize you could get that color on steel at 400!
You basically seasoned it like a skillet 😁 Cool! 😁👍
yes but only use raw not boiled on a skillet
This is similar to seasoning a cast iron cookware. I would use avocado oil instead of Linseed oil for the the very high (525 degree F) smoke point and the resulting polymerized coating is much stronger. I would want to do that three to four times to get the maximum rust protection and in case of cast iron cookware, non-stick.
How long and at what temperature do you season your cast iron? If it has the polymerized coating can you wash with soap and water? Or leave out the soap?
@@chelsibovingdon573 bake cast iron cookware at 500 degree F and an hour and let cool in the oven. Do that three to four times. All my cast iron cookware are non-stick and washing them requires just hot water. I wipe dry them and warm them up then apply a light coat of oil.
Great suggestion! And I like using Peanut Oil, which has a 500-degree smoking point but I have heard that avocado is great.
Excellent tip. Thank you for creating and uploading this video.
Very handy coating looks great 👌
Nice coating! I do wonder once I get near 400F for an hour if I might not temper anything that is hardened? Great job!
it's called polymerization and it's also how you "season" cast iron and carbon steel pans (but with flax seed oil insteadof linseed)
Flax and Lin are two names for the same plant, so flax seed and linseed oils are actually the same thing.
the difference though is that "flax seed oil" is guaranteed to be raw linseed oil. you can't use "boiled" linseed on a pan because of the heavy metal dryers
@@5naxalotl correct. 'boiled linseed oil' isn't food safe, it has a bunch of drying agents added to help speed up the polymerization. Labelling is so misleading! Same issue with 'mink' oil for treating later - unless you pay for 100% pure mink oil, which is $$$, you're usually getting neatsfood oil, maybe even silicone, and a tiny % of actual mink oil...
That’s a cool truck for linseed oil.
Looks like a C-Clamp used to hang a threaded rod
I assume 400 degrees F, not C. The result would probably be quite different if using 400 degrees Celsius.
Same same
this was the kind of comment I was looking for, so thanks.
Um…400C is approximately 750 F. I don’t know of any domestic ovens that would reach that temperature or even close. 😂😂😂
i've done this with old canola fry oil. no different from seasoning a cast iron skillet.
Hi, excellent video, how has the finish held up over time?
Can I do this with less heat? I want to use linseed oil on my slip joint pliers and channel locks. But they have rubber handles at the bottom. I think I can hit the top with a heat gun but i dont want o leave it in the oven. I was thinking boiled linseed oil and then light to medium heat gun targeted at the metal and then stop to let it cool if I feel the plastic grip covering the metal getting too hot... I guess its not a huge deal if the plastic grip comes off since its metal underneath, its just for comfort.
well done
Thank you
Great video, thanks for sharing. I'm definitely going to test this but I'm curious about longevity. I'd be curious to know if you gouged the coating, is it self healing? I wonder if a quick hit from a torch in the area would cause it to reflow and self-heal, or if another light application of linseed oil and then the torch would do anything. Basically a process to avoid having to rebake it
it's not self healing but it will take a new layer well. heat or not heat both fine. not heat very very slow with raw linseed. "boiled" oil has metallic dryers
looks good.
The wifes not looking and I have an oven full of Victorian era hardware. I am aiming for the black finish and will let you know how it goes ! :)
Awesome video! What would you say is more durable the linseed oil or the cold blueing you used? If i bake it in the kitchen does it put off a strong odor?
Do you know if you can do the same with tung oil? I know tung oil another type of 'drying oil' which is used very similar to Linseed oil in wood finishing. I believe Tung oil dries/polymerizes faster at room temperature on wood, so I'm thinking it'll work well in an oven on metal as well?
Looks great!
Pretty cool but how would you apply it on a kukri knife blade without harming the wooden handles from heat. Thanks,
Fantastic , can I send you my cast iron pans to season ?
I actually have an old radiator I would like to be gold. I’m planning on having my powder coat guy sand blast it then do something like this. Just want to have a slightly “golder” appearance, do you think if I backed it at a lower temp or a short time period I could get a more good appearance?
Can I use linseed oil for car exhaust pipes?
Shalom
Thanks
That stuff is amazing for many things
I am making a sign for the lane at our cabin. it is a large metal sheet that I am adding PVC cut-outs bolted to the metal to create the design and graphics. I have rusted the metal to make the white PVC graphics really pop, but a friend told me that the rust is not going to stay on there (IE: it would wash off??) because the rust is only surface rust if that makes sense?? Like I want the rust (rich, bright red and brown tones) to stay just like it is, and maybe this is the product or process I need to try to preserve this appearance?
A year late but you can simply spray your sign with clear. Matt clear if you don't want to change the appearance, or gloss (might be too reflective). That said I've never heard of rust washing off LOL most of us only WISH it was that easy!
Thanks for the video. How necessary is it to bake the oil on? Would it take much longer to achieve the same finish if left to dry?
I will dry just in air too, but it takes a few days to be dry to the touch. Probably more like a week to fully cure all the way I imagine.
If you use raw linseed oil (not boiled) it will take much much longer, so not practical.
I used boiled linseed to rust protect a beat-up old chain used for a saltwater boat and let it air dry. It worked well. Almost like a clearcoat, and I haven't seen any new rust on I restored it.. My result was a bit less amber I think, so possibly baking it may bring out the color more - but its hard to say because the chain was very dark to begin with.I hear linseed oil generally yellows a bit over time. Wouldn't be surprised if heat speeds up that process dramatically.
400 Degrees, oh dear, I dont have any ovens that go that hot.
Fahrenheit °F
Which do you put in the oven? The clamp? I am confused
What was that gov surplus website?
Govdeals.com
Has anyone used this method on weathered Corten steel? If so does it seal and prohibit rust transfer to hands, or clothing? Thank you.
Do you think this would last on a caliper bracket?
Hi could I use this method on a raw steel exhaust i have a large scale rc petrol car and looking for something to stop it rusting .
Can I paint on boiled linseed oil to a raw steel desk- 58" long. I cannot put it in an oven since it's huge. Can or should I take a blow dryer to it once I apply the coating- 1 coat or 2? I was going to powder coat but the raw metal looks amazing. I bought square metal legs online (2) and 3 50" support beams at a local steel store and had it welded together. Big, heavy glass on top. Awesome desk. I just have to keep the steel from rusting. Open to all suggestions. Trying to avoid toxic clear coats, poly, etc. I like natural.
THANKS!
If you already have the answer please disregard.... You DO NOT have to bake linseed oil ... It wil polymerase as soon as it hits oxygen ... It WILL however take quite awhile to cure ... It will take on more of a clear coat though ...
@@papimiami1938 Thanks. I made a paste with fractionated coconut oil and beeswax. Applied it like wax after cleaning the metal. It is indoors (desk frame/glass top) and so far, so good. If it rusts a little here and there, so be it. Looks great. Can support 2,000lbs. easily. Bought legs online- square steel, then welded 3 supports.
@@MOAB-UT that's awesome ... I am a ironworker by trade so it sounds like a cool project ( we build all our tables also ) ... especially if it will hold up that much weight
@@papimiami1938 Fun project. Glass top is thick so 100lbs. so I wanted it to be strong. Legs were $200, thick 1x3" steel raw. 54" 1x3" raw tubular steel to go across. Local expert welded it up in a day- 2 across the top, and one down just above the floor in the back of the desk he said would help with stability. This dude welded the world trade center- real pro and did a great job...for $100!
0:40 start of topic
But don't miss the content after 0:08.
Can I try this on my screw driver bits, would it affect the hardness of the bits?
It should be ok, your really not getting it hot enough to change the temper.
@@1D10CRACY Thanks for replying 👍
I've been trying to find a blueing solution for a similar product. What do you use on this?
kind of looks like it was supposed to be part of a beefy chain link.
After baking with linseed oil, can it be powder coated?
You don’t need anything on top of bare metal to powder coat. Powder coat is your coating and no need for anything else.
Is it paintable after it cures?
I wouldn't think so, as linseed oil is an oil.
Any idea on coating oil without oven?
I know it will dry pretty quickly, and I bet it would provide good protection. I just don't know if baking it on is better or not.
It should be pretty decent without curing in the oven, but it'll take a few weeks to dry. Plus the excess oil is super dangerous if you're soaking it up with rags, it's a very energetic exothermic reaction as it dries and will spontaneously combust in open air.
400 degrees for 1 hour? :( .
400f, an hour may be overkill. My oven is an old lab oven, so it's pretty efficient.