I just bought 5 press back chairs. They need some TLC. I just watched this video and now I will be watching more! Your a good instructor! Looking forward to learning more from you!
Peter Brown Yes it was ... maybe even a bit of overkill getting it so deep, but I thought better that way than too shallow :) Thanks for buddy ...appreciate your comments
Thank you for this idea Colin... Something that I did noticed that could be improved is that: By making the cylindrical extension some 1/8" thicker from the end cut of the broken old one, till the inside of the hole. Then, there would not be a diameter's difference to be sanded from the original side of the leg-rest, so the "lump" would be minimal... I also recommend to sand the Union and applying the color dye, before inserting and gluing, to avoid leaving any marks on the leg run...
Thank you Colin! As you mentioned in your video, sooner or later you will be ask to repair a chair! Your technique for repairing a rung looks very good!
Very clever idea! I bought a chair stretcher replacement and it was too big so was trying to decide how to make the ends smaller in diameter but this is a much better idea! Thanks!
Thanks for the repair instructions. On the drilling, I typically use a pilot as you did but then increase size up to the needed diameter (mortise if you will) only a 1/16" at a time, This goes fairly quickly and I haven't split out any as yet. The only disadvantage is the depth, my standard bits are only 3" - 5" long so I don't get the depth you did. Keep the ideas coming!
I just repaired two broken off tendons on the base of a chair . I drilled down into the spindle approx 3” with a 1/2” Forstner bit. Worked great. Thanks for the tip. I also taped around the end of the spindle with filament tape to keep the end from splitting.
thanks Colin that's a great method for repairing a chair rung. I have done in the last couple of months but I was lucky they were straight dowels and not a turned piece. ps that's the first video of yours I have seen where you hardly crack a smile, but I guess you can't be happy all the time or family would have you committed haha
Excellent video. I followed your steps and my repaired chair looks great. Even had the right side drill bit and some old stain on hand, my only cost was a new oak dowel. I was skeptical that I could drill a nice straight hole into the rung like you did, but I did it. Thanks!
1st, thanks for video. 1 question, is there any reason that u wouldn't sand part b4 putting together? I'm new to woodworking and it seems like it would b easier to sand b4 putting together. Again, I'm new and just trying to learn as much as I can. Any info would help. Thanks
Thanks for the video. I think you were lucky - or very experienced - to get away with being able to drill the hole so central by hand. Normally it would run off with the grain or the spindle would twist. I don't think I would try it without a drill-press.
Trees2Pens Yes, many different ways to do this and this was to try and do the fix without machinery for a change ... sometimes I rely on machines too much
Quality repair, As others posted, I would have sanded and colored prior to re-installing the stretcher. Not sure what dye was used but I would have used a dark penetrating stain and then tapped with a black satin lacquer aerosol. 8+ years shop and in home furniture repair
Hi Colin I have a question for you do you have an idea how I can make a bench vice out of the material I have what I have is I have about 20 6 foot by 1 1/8" threaded rod acme thread I had them for years and would like to use them for something, just to see if you have an idea how to make a vise of some sort Thanks Dave
Daveyhunter6 You and I must be on a similar wave length. I had a bar like that for years and years and was always intending to do the same thing with it, but never got around to it. Yes, I have seen people do this, unfortunately I do not have plans and am a bit vague on what they did. Sorry buddy, wish I could offer more, but ... what I will do it is put this on my list and see if I can do something with this in the future. I think it's a great idea.
Thank you Colin , My Dad bought these rods from a Government auction many years ago and i inherited them I just hate to get rid of them I have about 15 or 18 of them
Nice alternative. I would indeed use my lathe. Also to drill it out as a lathe will drill straight where as my hands wont. How did you get that hole straight? That seems to be the hardest part to me.
Willem Kossen Just took my time and took a bit at a time. I was afraid the grain of the wood might make the drill bit wander but it stayed pretty straight
Would it be feasible to apply the same process to the legs? I have a chair similar to the one you repaired (well shorter) and I managed to break all four legs off together. Should I just drill into the ends of each leg like you did? What would I do to remove the residual wooden inside the holes of the seat? Thoughts? Help.... :). Thanks
Chris Horton Oooo ... hmm, sounds not good. Not exactly sure of your situation so going to try some assumptions. Are these are round legs? also are there cross member parts involved that keep the legs for splaying?? If so, to be honest, this is sounding like some pretty serious repair. The other thing to keep in mind, we are dealing with legs here, so going to need to make sure they will withstand the pressures when some sits on the chair. I really think in this instance if you really need/want to keep this chair, the best thing is going to be to replace those legs.
It does have cross members - H shape and they enter the seat at an angle too. Maybe it would be best to see if there's someone in our little town that would be able to restore it.
I'm no expert, but that is a weird way to use an auger bit. The whole purpose of the snail (the threaded pointy bit) is to pull the augur slowling into the wood. If you drill a pilot hole, you undo the purpose of the snail. No pilot hole for an augur bit, and turn it slowly. I like the repair though, thanks.
What is the sense of drilling the hole for the dowel so deep? Any second class glue bond is (much) stronger than most wood internal fiber bond strength . . . so a (pretty straight and narrow) hole of approx. 1 to 2 inches would do it !
Carmen Schumann Every fix is different and you need to do what you think is best, there are no rules in fixing rungs ... in my case the rungs were made from quite a soft wood so I wanted to reinforce it deeper with a hardwood dowel.
May I email you a picture, just to look at. My 84yi dads favorite chair. I am planning on repairing. Dad thinks I can do it. I have been building furniture for a few years. Repairs are new too me. Thanks. Greatly appreciated
I got the chair apart the correct way. I repaired it with pocket screws. My repair was the second repair. The first repair was terrible and wrong. Fortunately, I listen to people like you. This project was over my head, or so I thought until I took it on. I appreciate all your vids. Thanks
Harry Paul Garcia Glad to hear it sounds like you mastered it ... way to go :-) The good thing with working with wood, is most things are recoverable with a bit more wood and some glue. Thanks for the update Harry Colin
William de Thomas Yup, many different ways to do this, I thought about the drill press too, then went without it as well as this vid was to be a fix for people only have rudimentary tools like a power drill. Sometimes I get carried away with machinery and those who don't have machinery like to see what can be done with out the machines ... so this was an attempt at that.
@@trouts4444 Because when you need to repair the piece again, and you will after repeated use, you will not be able to separate the tenon and mortise without damage. Hide glue unbonds with steam or direct heat. Regular glue binds the wood fibers in a way that you'll end up destroying the tenon. All professional furniture builders and repairers know this.
Anther great video Colin, well done.
Carl Jacobson Thanks for posting Carl
I just bought 5 press back chairs. They need some TLC. I just watched this video and now I will be watching more! Your a good instructor! Looking forward to learning more from you!
Thanks for the video!Just what I needed.
No worries about a strong bond there, Colin! You looked like it was down several inches into that rung!
Peter Brown Yes it was ... maybe even a bit of overkill getting it so deep, but I thought better that way than too shallow :) Thanks for buddy ...appreciate your comments
How do you remove the unbroken tendon from the other leg and a center stretcher? They are both secured fastened.
I can't erase the smile on my face, well done sir!
Thank you for this idea Colin...
Something that I did noticed that could be improved is that: By making the cylindrical extension some 1/8" thicker from the end cut of the broken old one, till the inside of the hole.
Then, there would not be a diameter's difference to be sanded from the original side of the leg-rest, so the "lump" would be minimal...
I also recommend to sand the Union and applying the color dye, before inserting and gluing, to avoid leaving any marks on the leg run...
Great technique Collin, nicely done.
ShavingWood thanks buddy ..
Thank you Colin! As you mentioned in your video, sooner or later you will be ask to repair a chair! Your technique for repairing a rung looks very good!
Great Idea.......Thanks🙏🏽
You are so right about someone asking you to fix a chair just made two steam bent arm supports for a Windsor chair he was really pleased
Very clever idea! I bought a chair stretcher replacement and it was too big so was trying to decide how to make the ends smaller in diameter but this is a much better idea! Thanks!
Holy cow! Great video Colin, this is exactly the repair I need to do on my kitchen chair. Very easy to follow for a novice like me.
Perfect for what just happened to me in the shop today with a very old chair.. thank you for such great informative videos
+Geoff Peiffer Thanks Geoff
Thanks for the repair instructions. On the drilling, I typically use a pilot as you did but then increase size up to the needed diameter (mortise if you will) only a 1/16" at a time, This goes fairly quickly and I haven't split out any as yet. The only disadvantage is the depth, my standard bits are only 3" - 5" long so I don't get the depth you did. Keep the ideas coming!
I just repaired two broken off tendons on the base of a chair . I drilled down into the spindle approx 3” with a 1/2” Forstner bit. Worked great. Thanks for the tip. I also taped around the end of the spindle with filament tape to keep the end from splitting.
Thanks for watching!
Wow great thanks
Thank you for the vid. I enjoyed it and will come in handy as I have my own kitchen chairs to repair.
Another great video Colin.
Derek
GiddyUp994 Thanks Derek
I really enjoyed how well you explained in this video.
thanks Colin that's a great method for repairing a chair rung. I have done in the last couple of months but I was lucky they were straight dowels and not a turned piece. ps that's the first video of yours I have seen where you hardly crack a smile, but I guess you can't be happy all the time or family would have you committed haha
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Another very informative video. As usual. Thanks.
Crichly Thanks Crichly :)
Excellent video. I followed your steps and my repaired chair looks great. Even had the right side drill bit and some old stain on hand, my only cost was a new oak dowel. I was skeptical that I could drill a nice straight hole into the rung like you did, but I did it. Thanks!
zoomoutdoors Perfect, glad it worked for you, I have had a few comments that this method worked, good to hear, thanks for taking the time
Another great video Colin thanks for the info.
carl53301 Thanks Carl
Wow! That came out really well! Thanks . 🤓
1st, thanks for video. 1 question, is there any reason that u wouldn't sand part b4 putting together? I'm new to woodworking and it seems like it would b easier to sand b4 putting together. Again, I'm new and just trying to learn as much as I can. Any info would help. Thanks
Thanks for the video.
I think you were lucky - or very experienced - to get away with being able to drill the hole so central by hand. Normally it would run off with the grain or the spindle would twist.
I don't think I would try it without a drill-press.
I just did 4 of these today. Same technique. They are drying right now just as straight and level as they were before.
Sou apaixonado por marcenaria, gostei da ideia de valorizar a peça quebra ficou ótimo parabéns!!!!!!!
lucas regis cardoso Thank you for your comments :)
Never saw that method but surely better than new. Thanks for the idea.
Trees2Pens Yes, many different ways to do this and this was to try and do the fix without machinery for a change ... sometimes I rely on machines too much
Thank you Colin another interesting bit... Well done
MrEdsster A bit outside the normal, but nice to so something different once in a while
Great video! Appreciate the tip
StoneysWorkshop Thanks Stoney
I don't have a lathe so this repair is a fantastic alternative for me, thanks.
Paul C Thanks Paul, yes ... this was for those who don't always have the machinery handy
Good job Colin! What about cleaning out the old glue from the holes?
Alan Erickson Good point, in my case there really wasn't much but I did clean up the holes with a drill ... thanks for the comment, good point!
What are your opinions if the edges chip/split away on the entry?
It looked like the end of it was damaged during the drilling process.
Very great tip ! Thank you for sharing this :)
Emilien Benard Thank You for taking a moment to comment :)
Colin
Quality repair,
As others posted, I would have sanded and colored prior to re-installing the stretcher. Not sure what dye was used but I would have used a dark penetrating stain and then tapped with a black satin lacquer aerosol.
8+ years shop and in home furniture repair
Jeremy Albair lol ... I'll bet you see a lot of these kinds of things :-)
very useful
Thanks for taking a moment to comment
Hi Colin I have a question for you do you have an idea how I can make a bench vice out of the material I have what I have is I have about 20 6 foot by 1 1/8" threaded rod acme thread I had them for years and would like to use them for something, just to see if you have an idea how to make a vise of some sort Thanks Dave
Daveyhunter6 You and I must be on a similar wave length. I had a bar like that for years and years and was always intending to do the same thing with it, but never got around to it. Yes, I have seen people do this, unfortunately I do not have plans and am a bit vague on what they did. Sorry buddy, wish I could offer more, but ... what I will do it is put this on my list and see if I can do something with this in the future. I think it's a great idea.
Thank you Colin , My Dad bought these rods from a Government auction many years ago and i inherited them I just hate to get rid of them I have about 15 or 18 of them
Nice work.
Omar Khan Thanks Omar
Does this work on all types of wood to include softer woods? So much of the wood was cut out, it it were soft, wouldn't it crack/break?
nice job!
honorio sergio Appreciate it Honorio
Nice alternative. I would indeed use my lathe. Also to drill it out as a lathe will drill straight where as my hands wont. How did you get that hole straight? That seems to be the hardest part to me.
Willem Kossen Just took my time and took a bit at a time. I was afraid the grain of the wood might make the drill bit wander but it stayed pretty straight
Would it be feasible to apply the same process to the legs? I have a chair similar to the one you repaired (well shorter) and I managed to break all four legs off together. Should I just drill into the ends of each leg like you did? What would I do to remove the residual wooden inside the holes of the seat? Thoughts? Help.... :). Thanks
Chris Horton Oooo ... hmm, sounds not good. Not exactly sure of your situation so going to try some assumptions. Are these are round legs? also are there cross member parts involved that keep the legs for splaying??
If so, to be honest, this is sounding like some pretty serious repair. The other thing to keep in mind, we are dealing with legs here, so going to need to make sure they will withstand the pressures when some sits on the chair.
I really think in this instance if you really need/want to keep this chair, the best thing is going to be to replace those legs.
It does have cross members - H shape and they enter the seat at an angle too. Maybe it would be best to see if there's someone in our little town that would be able to restore it.
Sequence 01?
FunWithWoodworking Yeah ... lol ... I goofed, and forgot to rename it .. have fixed it now
Cool, I just thought that I would let you know.
I'm no expert, but that is a weird way to use an auger bit. The whole purpose of the snail (the threaded pointy bit) is to pull the augur slowling into the wood. If you drill a pilot hole, you undo the purpose of the snail. No pilot hole for an augur bit, and turn it slowly.
I like the repair though, thanks.
What is the sense of drilling the hole for the dowel so deep? Any second class glue bond is (much) stronger than most wood internal fiber bond strength . . . so a (pretty straight and narrow) hole of approx. 1 to 2 inches would do it !
Carmen Schumann Every fix is different and you need to do what you think is best, there are no rules in fixing rungs ... in my case the rungs were made from quite a soft wood so I wanted to reinforce it deeper with a hardwood dowel.
May I email you a picture, just to look at. My 84yi dads favorite chair. I am planning on repairing. Dad thinks I can do it. I have been building furniture for a few years. Repairs are new too me. Thanks. Greatly appreciated
Harry Paul Garcia Hello Harry, sure, send it through my woodworkweb email
I got the chair apart the correct way. I repaired it with pocket screws. My repair was the second repair. The first repair was terrible and wrong. Fortunately, I listen to people like you. This project was over my head, or so I thought until I took it on. I appreciate all your vids. Thanks
Harry Paul Garcia Glad to hear it sounds like you mastered it ... way to go :-) The good thing with working with wood, is most things are recoverable with a bit more wood and some glue.
Thanks for the update Harry
Colin
I would have used a drill press, would have sanded the piece before installing and placed the unpainted part looking down. Good job
William de Thomas Yup, many different ways to do this, I thought about the drill press too, then went without it as well as this vid was to be a fix for people only have rudimentary tools like a power drill. Sometimes I get carried away with machinery and those who don't have machinery like to see what can be done with out the machines ... so this was an attempt at that.
And much appreciated.
Sincerely, A-Viewer-With-Limmited-Tools
this is exactly repair than I need for a 40 years old chairs
Just FYI-Never use your finger to spread glue as the oils in your skin prohibit adhesion. Instead use an artist brush.
What do you do when you cannot spread the legs to insert both ends of the repaired rung?
Jeff Stanley
Same technique, but cut dowel shorter than hole and put a compression spring in before dowel. Use slower drying glue.
👍👍👍🙂
Also, never use the kind of glue he is using on the mortise and tendon! Always use hide glue.
Why?
@@trouts4444 Because when you need to repair the piece again, and you will after repeated use, you will not be able to separate the tenon and mortise without damage. Hide glue unbonds with steam or direct heat. Regular glue binds the wood fibers in a way that you'll end up destroying the tenon. All professional furniture builders and repairers know this.
My adventure with woodworking started with Woodglut.
Thicker in the middle didn't help much, did it?