Absolutely the best and most comprehensive installation video for a turbo system that I have ever seen. Is this kit available for a 2001 24-valve, 5.9 Cummins? If so, how much and where can I pick it up?
Todd, what exhaust manifold did you use? I see the orientation for the mounting flange is 180 degrees off from the stock location. Is this just a standard 3-piece manifold clipped? Thank you
I want to swap a 12v in my 77 f250. I would like to use it as a daily driver and cross country towing to my race car. From watching the video you guys did with Finnegan, you guy mentioned o-ringing the block. I have heard that you shouldn't o-ring a daily driver. Will this kit still work safely without o-ringing the head or block? If not, what kind of kit could I use that will give me lots of low-end torque in a reliable daily driver?
Have you installed one of these kits in a Fummins? Thinking of running a compound set on my 12 valve Excursion. I was mostly wondering if the kit would fit, the clearances are a little different on the Ford body. Also the adapter I used kept the 6.0 diesel starter and the starter is on the passenger side unlike the stock 12valve starter position.
awesome kit and the vid shows just how easy it is to do, everything's been well thought out and it all fits really well. the locking nuts are cheap insurance, I've had stock ones loosen up and it its a pain to tighten , I'm glad I went with it I have the same kit on my truck, actually the first engine in the vid is mine, Its a little more than what's in this vid but same idea, they made me a similar kit but with there PDD priority Garrett 62 over a 476 sxe, everything fits like a glove and I haven't had one problem . great bunch of guys to deal with and always available to help. Oh and the clamps, hoses they use are the best I've ever used . if your looking for one of the best designed easiest to install twin kit look no further than PDD. Customer service is second to none.
If your using a steed manifold flipped , drill a hole in the turbo mounting bracket so you can get to the second gauge hole. good place for a drive pressure gauge
love this video. I have a 12.7 with 171702 Borg Warner pushing 38 psi. I want to compound that turbo. how do I figure out the numbers for the bigger turbo. I also am looking into the sxe 480 as a single turbo. or compounding that sxe 480 into a bigger turbo. I want to haul tail feathers. lol nice video.
I have a lot of questions about turbo manifolds. Going log or tubular? What about exhaust manifold lenght, diameter, inner volume? Like you want small, for spool, but not too small to not chocke. Also big, but not too big, so turbo can spool. What can you comment about that?
If the inside allows the gas to expand, it cools down, however since you are pushing through the turbo, you won't have a lot of cooling. Whatever the cross section of the heads ports are, stay close. That way you don't loose heat or velocity. After turbo, go BIG. Log manifolds will hold the heat and that heat is what makes turbos work. Tubes look cool but expand and break eventually. They also don't retain heat as well, which can reduce turbo efficiency. Unless you wrap the, ad wrap has a limited life expectancy, so you would need to replace it when it wears out. I was watching this video and thinking what's with the welded tube between the turbos? Yes it's insulated but still thin metal. Also even though the install looks good, there is a fair amount of space between the twins that other suppliers close up on.
Hi guys. Love the videos. Super informative! I work as a helicopter mechanic and I deal with a lot of V Band clamps. It’s common practice in the industry to tap around the clamp once you have torqued it to seat the clamp and than retorque it again. And repeat as needed until the clamp is snug. If you don’t the clamp can loosen up over time. I’ve had it happen to me. I’m just curious why you don’t see more of that in the automotive world? Keep up the good work!
As a diesel mechanic, I agree. that is just common sense to do. No one every taught me or told me to do it…just always have. Will help make sure you catch any misalignments too
Would this be pretty much the same procedure for adding the 472 SXE to a 05'-06' common rail? Anything else that would be a good idea to do while you are in there? Thanks for the info
Thanks for the reply. Well I finally got one but it's an 08' with the 6.7l. Does that change much as far as going with compounds? I know it's a whole new transmission with it's own little group of issues. I was looking for a 5.9l but this one was in my price range and was fairly low miles with 118k. Needing the Mega Cab really limited my options but I'm just stoked to finally have a Cummins sitting in driveway :)
@@overheadcam32 From what I understand as long as you leave your stock in place the exhaust brake will work otherwise if you remove the stock turbo you remove your exhaust brake as well. I'm planning on running the 472 over my stock.
@PowerDrivenDiesel correct me if im wrong but the exhaust side of the turbo is what starts the entire charging process. So a compound setup essentially works in reverse. Exhaust hits the smaller turbo first so how does the larger turbo receive exhaust pressure?
@@pddofficial So to be perfectly clear you attach the smaller turbo to the exhaust manifold and then the larger turbo to that turbine housing, correct? Just want to make sure that I understand how this works because like Jonathon it seems backwards to me as well.
@@Parents_of_Twins the smaller turbo doesn't have the expansion volume to pull all the energy out of the exhaust. Jet engines start big and get smaller as the compressor goes, and then the turbines start small and get bigger. Same thing on multiple expansion steam engines, highest pressure in the smallest cylinder, which exhausts into the next larger cylinder.
Anybody ever heard of Leyland 412 turbo and what can be done with it? I've just swiped it's K27 with a HX35, non intercooler, timing @27, small sigma pump.
Pre- lube the turbo cartridges with clean engine oil at the oil inlets!!! Especially after having pulled the pan and filters. Not doing so causes a dry run on your bearings inside the turbo and at the speeds these things run just a a second or two will damage the bearings and reduce the life of the turbo? It only takes a few seconds with an oil can and will save you possibly thousands in failures. Most manufacturers in fact send literature with their parts stating this fact. I wish you had put this very important step in the video. Otherwise you did a good job!
So been watching your videos in compounds and noticed you guy keep saying 35ft lbs for the exhaust mani bolts but in the chilton and my online full service tech book for the 3rd gen 2006 Dodge Ram 5.9l cummins they both say 32ftlbs
Would be really cool if you guys did a compound 4bt setup. Since so many people like doing swaps into jeeps and what not. I understand that you might not be able to do a "bolt in kit" but having a turbo/manifold/fueling package that would just need the installer to make piping would be rad.
@@pddofficial you're right. The market is much smaller than the 12v/24v. Would also be really cool if SOMEONE actually did a compound install and dyno like people do with 12v/24v. At the same time, a very responsive 300-350 hp 4bt set up would probably be a sweet spot for most that want good power/fuel efficiency in an off roader but dont have the under hood space for a 6 cylinder.
If you dont have a heat exchanger between the 2 turbos, your air temps are going to be massive. Thats why 2 stage blowers on aircraft engines like the Merlin had an inbetween heat exchanger that improved efficiency dramatically.
@UCpcor2FrquP_vAY6ltwTPOA Will or Todd do you sell or do you have have the part number or that vband gasket . Ive been fighting a leak for some time now.
Why not have dipstick tubes with a y just above where it plugs into the pan. For the engines most popular to Diy turbo. Like LS engines. A oil pan swap requires pulling the engine on most. Vehicles. .
Even tho I'm pretty knowledgeable with engines ect. But no personal experience When comes to diesels and turbos, something I don't understand is with compound turbos how the larger turbo can move its rated amount of air when it goes thru a smaller turbo...? Im under the impression the smaller one is to reduce lag caused by a large turbo but being plumed inline I don't get how it flows to its full potential with the bottle neck of the small one in front. To me it seems like bolting a 300cfm 2 barrel carb into of a 800cfm 4 barrel to keep fuel flow good at low vacuum.... Unless the big turbo can pull more air thru the littles rated for via a huge amount of vacuum. It works so it's obviously my ignorance on the subject, hopefully my question seems legitimate not foolish.
The answer is that the air is compressed. The big turbo compresses the air into the little turbo which takes the denser air and compresses it some more. Now that air can easily be hitting 400 degrees and needs cooled as much as possible before the piston compresses it again. The high density air should help keep the small turbo from over speeding? but kinda guessing there since I never really took a class on this topic. Seems to make a little sense to me. What I would like to know is what the air pressure is for each turbo and the ratio or pressures of each at various rpms under a set load. I don't like to guess but it is a mystery that needs solved. I am going to assume that the big turbo probably comes in a little later at the higher loads and rpm. Thus I guess the ratio wouldn't be one to one but variable. One to one would be like the smaller turbo always double the pressure of the big turbo. Variable would be like Big turbo at 5 lbs at 30% load 1000rpm with the small turbo at 12 lbs. Than say big turbo at 15 lbs at 60% load at 1500rpm with the small turbo at 25lbs. And by lbs I mean psi.
Your torque wrench should also be set higher if you’re using extensions. The exact amount depends on the length of the extension. There’s a formula for it if you want to be exact, but I usually just go an extra 5ft-lbs if you’re using a 6in extension.
a straight extension will NOT affect torque values, an offset like using a 'crowsfoot' WILL affect torque values because the lever arm distance is increased.
Why no intercooling between compressor stages? What kinda boost is this running? And why have a hot air intake? No box? Seems to me even a smallish air to air in between stages would raise air density alot. Here's my math on some assumptions 15psi(2:1pr) by another 15psi(2:1pr).. looking at the comp maps that nets us at 80° ambient about 200°out then ramped up to 450-500° at 45psi at the manifold. Just adding a crap intercooler between would lower that to a much more reasonable 80° to 110° to 235° then into the next charge cooler. This brings the air density up about 40% and should be better for the engine. Also that charge pipe between stages looks a good bit smaller than the outlet of that big boy. Cool stuff I just think you guys could have done some more R&D on this but then again just pop a hole in the oilpan and JB weld it in doesn't really inspire confidence. is there any Dyno info, back pressure tests, charge temp tests? Not to be that guy just see lots of lack of a engineer.
No it's not a stock manifold, those are single piece and these are 3 piece to allow expansion and contraction without breaking the tabs off the heads, manifolds or bolts. It can be installed either way though, if the manifold is installed up or down, the turbos can be spaced closer or farther to address space issues which would require changes in the pieces between them and support brackets & tubing pieces
One thing that bothered me in this video was that the allen extension was left on the primary turbo during the entire installation, hopefully it was removed. :P But other than that this was a really well done video.
@@pddofficial And what about the OP question on the upper oil line? Should one have a longer one to reroute off the exhaust? Would like to compound my 04.5 Ram 3500.. If a shop did it..What would one figure for a ballpark price for labor? Thats the whole deal..Tranz..converter..studs..tuning..and so on...
We, unfortunately do not offer compound turbos for those newer models with the copious amounts of emissions equipment. We've heard ATS and BD have CARB compliant kits for the newer trucks.
What about the oil feed for the bottom turbo where does that hook up to? You clearly skipped right over that part as the video evidence shows! I would like to know this information because I want to put a second turbo on my 1996 12 valve P-pump Cummins
@@pddofficial Well I ended up only using the main oil feed to feed both turbos! Main feed goes into top turbo which is my old Borg Warner GM-4 then hooked up drain from that to a universal motorcycle oil cooler and the outlet on that feeds the bottom turbo which is a Borg Warner S300SX and then drains into the one stock block drain!
***** your way just seems risky I'd drill it tap the hole to the thread put lots of tape on and change the oil after to get rid of shavings. The pans are not that thick but more than thick enough to take a few threads.
i would go ahed a buy the new pan or weld in the bung putting the hole in the pan just seems cheap but there are people that just dpnt care but good vid guys
In this case that you described...would not the primary turbo act as a flow restriction to the secondary turbo once the primary has reached max boost rpm? Why not have each turbo independently feed into a Y then feed to the intercooler....if both are being fed off the same exhaust. or in the scenario of both feeding into a Y, as the primary spools up would there then be any sort of backfeeding (loss) of air through the secondary turbo before it has a chance to spool up? In short.. 1. I understand the secondary will be "helping" the primary intake of air although: if primary is at max boost and max rpm....wouldn't more forced air going through the primary overspeed the bearings as well as the cross section area (say 12cm) can only flow so much air. Hence the theory of using a Y to allow each to force air through the intake independently of each other. 2. Would it not be more efficient to have the forced air (inducer) of the primary feed the exhaust side xducer of the secondary. Then the secondary spools fast as well as providing the extra amount of boost and flow desired? Just trying to understand the dynamics of twins...thanks
Basically, the smaller turbo is helping the bigger trubo "spool up" to reduce lag. Thus, the bigger one is not feeding the little one, more like the little one is giving the big one a little pull.
PowerDrivenDiesel thanks for the explanation, it does make sense, I suppose. I had always thought that the smaller turbo pushed the bigger one in order to reduce lag, but then again, I haven't had a lot of experience with twin turbo setups. I've only recently started working on some and the technology is a bit foreign to me, and I'd like to get a good grasp of it.
Too funny why put a hole in your sump ,because a oil drain for a turbo should be above the oil full level line not straight into the sump because you’ll get a build up of oil in the return line ,also that why most stock turbo cars have them on the side of the block near were the sump bolts to the mating surface of the block or there is a treaded fitting
yall lost about 75hp to 90 hp hooking the 2nd turbo to the front of the 1st one 1st turbo needs its own air fillter get a split pipe for your intercooler both turbos need the intercooler and fillters that one pipe is not doning nothing at all is why the spool on the 2nd turbo is drowned out and not spooling up CLEAN AIR FOR 1ST turbo plz it might just add 125 hp quick with less fuel to run the turbos the stock intercooler can run both turbos.
you guys didn't say this, but the fella doing the install torqued off the bolt head and not the nut. Sometime try it for yourself, pull a bolt down to proper torque then see if you don't get a differentiation while torquing off the nut. Always pull nuts and bolts down from nut side. Again tnx for the great video men. I'd love to have a twin setup on my dead mint '94 3500 Ram
![ใจดำกับฉันก่อน - วงทัพห้า [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I48wa4qurAU/mqdefault.jpg)
We were putting compound turbos on cummins KT series at our Mack Trucks engineering lab back in 1980
Funny how things come full circle years later
You guys are awesome make the best videos I'm a big fan of y'all would love to have y'all build my dream truck
Absolutely the best and most comprehensive installation video for a turbo system that I have ever seen. Is this kit available for a 2001 24-valve, 5.9 Cummins? If so, how much and where can I pick it up?
Todd, what exhaust manifold did you use? I see the orientation for the mounting flange is 180 degrees off from the stock location. Is this just a standard 3-piece manifold clipped? Thank you
Great video got me sold
I want to swap a 12v in my 77 f250. I would like to use it as a daily driver and cross country towing to my race car. From watching the video you guys did with Finnegan, you guy mentioned o-ringing the block. I have heard that you shouldn't o-ring a daily driver. Will this kit still work safely without o-ringing the head or block? If not, what kind of kit could I use that will give me lots of low-end torque in a reliable daily driver?
Have you installed one of these kits in a Fummins? Thinking of running a compound set on my 12 valve Excursion. I was mostly wondering if the kit would fit, the clearances are a little different on the Ford body. Also the adapter I used kept the 6.0 diesel starter and the starter is on the passenger side unlike the stock 12valve starter position.
intalling turbo to natural aspirated engine does not affect or damage the original pitons?
awesome kit and the vid shows just how easy it is to do, everything's been well thought out and it all fits really well. the locking nuts are cheap insurance, I've had stock ones loosen up and it its a pain to tighten , I'm glad I went with it I have the same kit on my truck, actually the first engine in the vid is mine, Its a little more than what's in this vid but same idea, they made me a similar kit but with there PDD priority Garrett 62 over a 476 sxe, everything fits like a glove and I haven't had one problem . great bunch of guys to deal with and always available to help. Oh and the clamps, hoses they use are the best I've ever used . if your looking for one of the best designed easiest to install twin kit look no further than PDD. Customer service is second to none.
what is you horsepower number with that set up?
If your using a steed manifold flipped , drill a hole in the turbo mounting bracket so you can get to the second gauge hole. good place for a drive pressure gauge
very nice and informative video i like very much-
Hi...very informative vid...where are you guys located? Thank you from Minnesota
Where can I find the clamps that you are talking about with the springs on them? I keep blowing the hose off of mine.
love this video.
I have a 12.7 with 171702 Borg Warner pushing 38 psi.
I want to compound that turbo.
how do I figure out the numbers for the bigger turbo.
I also am looking into the sxe 480 as a single turbo.
or compounding that sxe 480 into a bigger turbo.
I want to haul tail feathers. lol
nice video.
So you relocate the transmission heat exchanger?
So the atmospheric is the lower? What sizes are these turbos, specs?
Great video.... Will air conditioner still fit? looks like hose from compressor will have clearance issues with primary turbo.
I have a lot of questions about turbo manifolds. Going log or tubular? What about exhaust manifold lenght, diameter, inner volume?
Like you want small, for spool, but not too small to not chocke. Also big, but not too big, so turbo can spool. What can you comment about that?
If the inside allows the gas to expand, it cools down, however since you are pushing through the turbo, you won't have a lot of cooling. Whatever the cross section of the heads ports are, stay close. That way you don't loose heat or velocity. After turbo, go BIG. Log manifolds will hold the heat and that heat is what makes turbos work. Tubes look cool but expand and break eventually. They also don't retain heat as well, which can reduce turbo efficiency. Unless you wrap the, ad wrap has a limited life expectancy, so you would need to replace it when it wears out. I was watching this video and thinking what's with the welded tube between the turbos? Yes it's insulated but still thin metal. Also even though the install looks good, there is a fair amount of space between the twins that other suppliers close up on.
What about Common Rail? and external wastegate k27 steedspeed?
Hi guys. Love the videos. Super informative! I work as a helicopter mechanic and I deal with a lot of V Band clamps. It’s common practice in the industry to tap around the clamp once you have torqued it to seat the clamp and than retorque it again. And repeat as needed until the clamp is snug. If you don’t the clamp can loosen up over time. I’ve had it happen to me. I’m just curious why you don’t see more of that in the automotive world? Keep up the good work!
As a diesel mechanic, I agree. that is just common sense to do. No one every taught me or told me to do it…just always have. Will help make sure you catch any misalignments too
Awesome Boyz 👌👊
Have you ever deal with Mechanical Cummins L10?
No intercooler between turbos? What is your inlet temperature to the top turbo under load.?
Would this work with a sx/e 369 and Hy35
Badass kit, looking at a compound setup for a Mercedes om606 engine, half the size of the cummins!
Noooo the tdi will never be powerful enough for what we need ;)
where do i find that downppipe vband to turbo flange?
Real honest question here. Between atmosphere and primary compressors, why does the pipe not match the inlet sizes more closely
Do the hot pipe and downpipe come wrapped like that?
Would this be pretty much the same procedure for adding the 472 SXE to a 05'-06' common rail? Anything else that would be a good idea to do while you are in there? Thanks for the info
Thanks for the reply. Well I finally got one but it's an 08' with the 6.7l. Does that change much as far as going with compounds? I know it's a whole new transmission with it's own little group of issues. I was looking for a 5.9l but this one was in my price range and was fairly low miles with 118k. Needing the Mega Cab really limited my options but I'm just stoked to finally have a Cummins sitting in driveway :)
Will my exhaust brake work with this compound setup. Or would I be better off just installing the 472 only and run my stock turbo. Thanks
@@overheadcam32 From what I understand as long as you leave your stock in place the exhaust brake will work otherwise if you remove the stock turbo you remove your exhaust brake as well. I'm planning on running the 472 over my stock.
Como cuanto de torque tiene ahora
Hey guys is it okay for the oil line to be touching the manifold it look like it was from the video
Cool video tho guys. Thank you.
At this point would it make more sense to have every turbine mounted on the same axel and machine a new casing like a turboprop engine?
@PowerDrivenDiesel correct me if im wrong but the exhaust side of the turbo is what starts the entire charging process. So a compound setup essentially works in reverse. Exhaust hits the smaller turbo first so how does the larger turbo receive exhaust pressure?
@@pddofficial So to be perfectly clear you attach the smaller turbo to the exhaust manifold and then the larger turbo to that turbine housing, correct? Just want to make sure that I understand how this works because like Jonathon it seems backwards to me as well.
@@Parents_of_Twins the smaller turbo doesn't have the expansion volume to pull all the energy out of the exhaust. Jet engines start big and get smaller as the compressor goes, and then the turbines start small and get bigger. Same thing on multiple expansion steam engines, highest pressure in the smallest cylinder, which exhausts into the next larger cylinder.
Anybody ever heard of Leyland 412 turbo and what can be done with it? I've just swiped it's K27 with a HX35, non intercooler, timing @27, small sigma pump.
If you have the money to buy a compound turbo kit, there's no excuse for "poking a hole and JB Welding" an oil fitting into the side of your oil pan.
Sure there is. If it works, it works. Move on to more important things
I’d agree. Even if it takes a long time to save for compounds, taking the oil pan off and welding in a fitting is free. If you have the tools.
Cant both drains be connected together and just use the drain in the block the top turbo uses?
How much world a kit be?
JB weld will work fine. I have done it same way for years with no problems.
Anyone know which exhaust housing they are using for the 369? Im guessing a T4 around 1.1ar?
Yes it is the t4 1.10
Exelente!
Pre- lube the turbo cartridges with clean engine oil at the oil inlets!!! Especially after having pulled the pan and filters. Not doing so causes a dry run on your bearings inside the turbo and at the speeds these things run just a a second or two will damage the bearings and reduce the life of the turbo? It only takes a few seconds with an oil can and will save you possibly thousands in failures. Most manufacturers in fact send literature with their parts stating this fact. I wish you had put this very important step in the video. Otherwise you did a good job!
I like to skeet in the turbo for superior spoolage.......
Was that Sami Zane tightening that turbo
So been watching your videos in compounds and noticed you guy keep saying 35ft lbs for the exhaust mani bolts but in the chilton and my online full service tech book for the 3rd gen 2006 Dodge Ram 5.9l cummins they both say 32ftlbs
We always go 35ft lbs
Shouldn’t the small turbo be feeding the big turbo? Not the other way around I’m confused
how much hp can be gain from this set up
Would be really cool if you guys did a compound 4bt setup. Since so many people like doing swaps into jeeps and what not. I understand that you might not be able to do a "bolt in kit" but having a turbo/manifold/fueling package that would just need the installer to make piping would be rad.
maybe one day just hard because 4bt are all over the place for power goals and a very small market
@@pddofficial you're right. The market is much smaller than the 12v/24v.
Would also be really cool if SOMEONE actually did a compound install and dyno like people do with 12v/24v.
At the same time, a very responsive 300-350 hp 4bt set up would probably be a sweet spot for most that want good power/fuel efficiency in an off roader but dont have the under hood space for a 6 cylinder.
Can't find this kit for 5.9 12v on yer site...
So do you think they ever recovered the ball end allen that was left in the turbo flange?
retsaoter someone else mentioned it and they replied saying that it was “eventually” recovered lol
If you dont have a heat exchanger between the 2 turbos, your air temps are going to be massive. Thats why 2 stage blowers on aircraft engines like the Merlin had an inbetween heat exchanger that improved efficiency dramatically.
Could you put a water to air intercooler in Australia PWR do a high efficiency compact cooler with a separate radiator that would work
where are the compound kits for the Mercedes OM606?
On a cat
Ask Hans and Franz.
Hi, can I use the compound turbo on the Ford Ranger PX 2014??
Blumpy ..... Yes please
What keeps the big oil return from the smaller turbo from falling out of the block?
Over 150 PSI :O my gauge don't go that high!
How much is the 1st gen kit?
off course it was fast if you use ready parts but if you make them yourself its take much more time.
If turbo oil drain is not straight up and down it will make turbo blow oil even slightly off is to much guarteed oil seal failure
So do you need to o ring the head with this setup, or will just studs be ok?
On 12v & 24v you will need to o ring or fire ring when running compounds.
Add an Inter cooler between the first turbo
Do you sell a kit with just the piping? I have the turbos.
Awesome i appreciate it!
PowerDrivenDiesel how much is it$?
Can the full kit be available from your shop thks
Yes here is the link powerdrivendiesel.com/product/ultimate-towing-compound-turbo-kit/
@UCpcor2FrquP_vAY6ltwTPOA
Will or Todd do you sell or do you have have the part number or that vband gasket . Ive been fighting a leak for some time now.
@@pddofficial
V band gasket I need a 3" vband gasket
Why not have dipstick tubes with a y just above where it plugs into the pan. For the engines most popular to Diy turbo. Like LS engines. A oil pan swap requires pulling the engine on most. Vehicles. .
Even tho I'm pretty knowledgeable with engines ect. But no personal experience When comes to diesels and turbos, something I don't understand is with compound turbos how the larger turbo can move its rated amount of air when it goes thru a smaller turbo...? Im under the impression the smaller one is to reduce lag caused by a large turbo but being plumed inline I don't get how it flows to its full potential with the bottle neck of the small one in front. To me it seems like bolting a 300cfm 2 barrel carb into of a 800cfm 4 barrel to keep fuel flow good at low vacuum.... Unless the big turbo can pull more air thru the littles rated for via a huge amount of vacuum. It works so it's obviously my ignorance on the subject, hopefully my question seems legitimate not foolish.
The answer is that the air is compressed. The big turbo compresses the air into the little turbo which takes the denser air and compresses it some more. Now that air can easily be hitting 400 degrees and needs cooled as much as possible before the piston compresses it again. The high density air should help keep the small turbo from over speeding? but kinda guessing there since I never really took a class on this topic. Seems to make a little sense to me.
What I would like to know is what the air pressure is for each turbo and the ratio or pressures of each at various rpms under a set load. I don't like to guess but it is a mystery that needs solved. I am going to assume that the big turbo probably comes in a little later at the higher loads and rpm. Thus I guess the ratio wouldn't be one to one but variable. One to one would be like the smaller turbo always double the pressure of the big turbo. Variable would be like Big turbo at 5 lbs at 30% load 1000rpm with the small turbo at 12 lbs. Than say big turbo at 15 lbs at 60% load at 1500rpm with the small turbo at 25lbs.
And by lbs I mean psi.
Your torque wrench should also be set higher if you’re using extensions. The exact amount depends on the length of the extension. There’s a formula for it if you want to be exact, but I usually just go an extra 5ft-lbs if you’re using a 6in extension.
a straight extension will NOT affect torque values, an offset like using a 'crowsfoot' WILL affect torque values because the lever arm distance is increased.
@@cdenyb it will not affect it when you tighten by hand but it will affect it when you use electric tools
Hey bro, it is needed to put another wategate for second turbo
Depends on the power that you are trying to make
Sorry!
I'm wondering if this set up is working on gasoline engine?
If the motor was built right maybe but it make a lot of boost
@@pddofficial
Tnx for the replay!
The engine build from stock for turbo! But I want to install the same turbo I have on my car.
Original 170hp
Why no intercooling between compressor stages? What kinda boost is this running? And why have a hot air intake? No box? Seems to me even a smallish air to air in between stages would raise air density alot. Here's my math on some assumptions 15psi(2:1pr) by another 15psi(2:1pr).. looking at the comp maps that nets us at 80° ambient about 200°out then ramped up to 450-500° at 45psi at the manifold. Just adding a crap intercooler between would lower that to a much more reasonable 80° to 110° to 235° then into the next charge cooler. This brings the air density up about 40% and should be better for the engine. Also that charge pipe between stages looks a good bit smaller than the outlet of that big boy. Cool stuff I just think you guys could have done some more R&D on this but then again just pop a hole in the oilpan and JB weld it in doesn't really inspire confidence. is there any Dyno info, back pressure tests, charge temp tests? Not to be that guy just see lots of lack of a engineer.
What kit is that ? I like that one better
That would be our Utc kit powerdrivendiesel.com/product/ultimate-towing-compound-turbo-kit/
I wish to have that on my mondeo 2.0tdci
Will compound work on gas engine s?
Yes but you will need major internal upgrades seeing how a single turbo on an NA engine can blow it up.
Is that just a normal manifold flipped upside down. Sure looks it
No it's not a stock manifold, those are single piece and these are 3 piece to allow expansion and contraction without breaking the tabs off the heads, manifolds or bolts. It can be installed either way though, if the manifold is installed up or down, the turbos can be spaced closer or farther to address space issues which would require changes in the pieces between them and support brackets & tubing pieces
Let’s go on to the ............
One thing that bothered me in this video was that the allen extension was left on the primary turbo during the entire installation, hopefully it was removed. :P But other than that this was a really well done video.
@@pddofficial And what about the OP question on the upper oil line? Should one have a longer one to reroute off the exhaust? Would like to compound my 04.5 Ram 3500.. If a shop did it..What would one figure for a ballpark price for labor? Thats the whole deal..Tranz..converter..studs..tuning..and so on...
Does the $3,733.41 kit come with Vaseline....
Doginu go see what BD diesel want for a set of compounds!
I thought that you would want an intercooler between the turbos?
Can I purchase a fully built engine from you guys? I plan on doing a diesel swap on a 2004 mustang gt .
@@pddofficial I'll call tomorrow morning
jayknight139 sounds like one hell of a project
What engine, Cummins are huge!
Did he ever call?? I'm saying BS.
I have a 2007.5 Cummins and I looking for information on compounds.
We, unfortunately do not offer compound turbos for those newer models with the copious amounts of emissions equipment. We've heard ATS and BD have CARB compliant kits for the newer trucks.
@@pddofficial my truck is deleted. I have a 2 piece 5.9 exhaust manifold with a 64mm phatshaft.
What about the oil feed for the bottom turbo where does that hook up to? You clearly skipped right over that part as the video evidence shows! I would like to know this information because I want to put a second turbo on my 1996 12 valve P-pump Cummins
@@pddofficial Well I ended up only using the main oil feed to feed both turbos! Main feed goes into top turbo which is my old Borg Warner GM-4 then hooked up drain from that to a universal motorcycle oil cooler and the outlet on that feeds the bottom turbo which is a Borg Warner S300SX and then drains into the one stock block drain!
or drill it and tap it change the oil after just in case
***** your way just seems risky I'd drill it tap the hole to the thread put lots of tape on and change the oil after to get rid of shavings. The pans are not that thick but more than thick enough to take a few threads.
I guess it should be very similar on a DT360 international
Robert Nunez those same turbos would be sized nicely for one
whats the orange things on top of the head
Trapfarm Powerlifting those are the valve covers it has one for every cylinder
Why can't you Y the factory drain?
I was wondering if one line was enough for the two of them...Thanks
i would go ahed a buy the new pan or weld in the bung putting the hole in the pan just seems cheap but there are people that just dpnt care but good vid guys
So, the lower, bigger turbo feeds into the smaller, upper one? I thought it would have been the other way around. Or did I miss something?
In this case that you described...would not the primary turbo act as a flow restriction to the secondary turbo once the primary has reached max boost rpm?
Why not have each turbo independently feed into a Y then feed to the intercooler....if both are being fed off the same exhaust.
or in the scenario of both feeding into a Y, as the primary spools up would there then be any sort of backfeeding (loss) of air through the secondary turbo before it has a chance to spool up?
In short..
1. I understand the secondary will be "helping" the primary intake of air although:
if primary is at max boost and max rpm....wouldn't more forced air going through the primary overspeed the bearings as well as the cross section area (say 12cm) can only flow so much air. Hence the theory of using a Y to allow each to force air through the intake independently of each other.
2. Would it not be more efficient to have the forced air (inducer) of the primary feed the exhaust side xducer of the secondary. Then the secondary spools fast as well as providing the extra amount of boost and flow desired?
Just trying to understand the dynamics of twins...thanks
Basically, the smaller turbo is helping the bigger trubo "spool up" to reduce lag. Thus, the bigger one is not feeding the little one, more like the little one is giving the big one a little pull.
PowerDrivenDiesel thanks for the explanation, it does make sense, I suppose. I had always thought that the smaller turbo pushed the bigger one in order to reduce lag, but then again, I haven't had a lot of experience with twin turbo setups. I've only recently started working on some and the technology is a bit foreign to me, and I'd like to get a good grasp of it.
The smaller upper turbo help the lower bigger turbo spool a lot faster so that there is no lag.
nordlock washers
How does he shave his chin?
Punch a hole and JB weld it... HAHAHA.
“Knock a hole in it and jb weld it”
I like to fuckin party too bud..
Where in the world did the cab go? I thought we were at a ford dealership for a minute.
Much easier to work on them like that
If you listen, you can hear a 6.0 in the background haha
Preston Schultz nope!
i have a cummins b series non turbo in my truck get more power of it
Too funny why put a hole in your sump ,because a oil drain for a turbo should be above the oil full level line not straight into the sump because you’ll get a build up of oil in the return line ,also that why most stock turbo cars have them on the side of the block near were the sump bolts to the mating surface of the block or there is a treaded fitting
When full the oil doesnt come up to the level where the fitting goes.
yall lost about 75hp to 90 hp hooking the 2nd turbo to the front of the 1st one 1st turbo needs its own air fillter get a split pipe for your intercooler both turbos need the intercooler and fillters that one pipe is not doning nothing at all is why the spool on the 2nd turbo is drowned out and not spooling up CLEAN AIR FOR 1ST turbo plz it might just add 125 hp quick with less fuel to run the turbos the stock intercooler can run both turbos.
That is NOT a compound turbo system it is simply a two stage system
Holy hack job. Torque specs!
Not to smart are you?
Too easy not to do it.
Torquing bolts are NOT the same as torquing nuts. Not even close.
you guys didn't say this, but the fella doing the install torqued off the bolt head and not the nut. Sometime try it for yourself, pull a bolt down to proper torque then see if you don't get a differentiation while torquing off the nut. Always pull nuts and bolts down from nut side. Again tnx for the great video men. I'd love to have a twin setup on my dead mint '94 3500 Ram
So you're saying the difference is like torqueing head bolts compared to head studs...good point
lost all respect recommending jb weld for oil return line lol
Why don't you add a splitter to the drain tube of the top turbo right at block?
I still have respect. Good work!
@@jreeder13 No chit huh, that's what I would do also.
video OK but having the whining ringing noise in the background kills it - thumbs down
Have you worked at a real shop before? It's NVR quite
Get what you pay for.
Good vijeo guys.