Look at council tool. The 5lbs splitting axe or the FE-6 axes they produce both work very well and are fairly affordable as workhorse splitters. Adler, ochsenkopf, and older vintage heads is where I'd look next. Tuatahi makes a great axe and you could modify a China head for splitting, or get the work axe. But splitting only, I'll go with council tool all day usually.
I fully concur, especially on the Council Tool 5#, and the Forced Entry 6#. Also DO NOT overlook the Council 4# Dayton…The “Urban LumberJack” YT channel does an EXCELLENT presentation on the 4# Dayton and how to fine tune it! Good luck!
@shawnmann9491 4# daytons are a fine choice as well. I love my old 4#'s! Also, the Urbanlumberjack channel is great for axe reviews, he presents a good argument in favor of council tool and the 4# Dayton (and their other patterns) they produce being one of, if not THE best value on the current axe market for quality and affordability.
@tjpighin I like both. The China doesn't hold an edge nearly as well as the work axe overall. And you'll have to grind the China head to shape. For a user and abuser the China head wins, it is customizable to your preferences if you have the tools. The work axe is more expensive, but ready to go out of the box essentially and can handle a little narrower bevel. The China head likes to be at 20 degrees, thinner than that and it has always wanted to bend on me. The work axe handles knots and frozen wood really well. If you're looking for a trainer, the China with a but thinner edge in good clean wood is a solid cost effective solution. But for woods work the work axe wins out I think. They are both heavy and not terribly suited to long hikes/walks. Tuatahi also makes trainer axes and I've heard their camp axe is a heck of a chopper and a bit lighter if you're looking more for a woods chopper/semi packable axe. I personally love the work axe, and the China is a good price, but with the China you're gonna have to put in some elbow grease to make a work well for you.
@Jzelenko27 ok great info, that's exactly what I was wondering. I figured the edge was not as hard thanks. Sounds like it's worth buying the woods axe for thw long haul
Tuatahi has a budget option for training axes that you grind yourself and are of a different quality steel than their race or actual trainers but are approximately sized and weighted for timbersports training purposes. I've found they work quite well if you put a decent primary bevel into them of about 20 degrees.. They come with the word "CHINA" stamped on them and they refer to them as China heads.
I’m in the market for an Axe. It’s job will be for wood splitting only. I do not want another splitting maul. Have any recommendations?
Look at council tool. The 5lbs splitting axe or the FE-6 axes they produce both work very well and are fairly affordable as workhorse splitters. Adler, ochsenkopf, and older vintage heads is where I'd look next. Tuatahi makes a great axe and you could modify a China head for splitting, or get the work axe. But splitting only, I'll go with council tool all day usually.
I fully concur, especially on the Council Tool 5#, and the Forced Entry 6#. Also DO NOT overlook the Council 4# Dayton…The “Urban LumberJack” YT channel does an EXCELLENT presentation on the 4# Dayton and how to fine tune it! Good luck!
@shawnmann9491
4# daytons are a fine choice as well. I love my old 4#'s! Also, the Urbanlumberjack channel is great for axe reviews, he presents a good argument in favor of council tool and the 4# Dayton (and their other patterns) they produce being one of, if not THE best value on the current axe market for quality and affordability.
How was the China head. I'm looking at a used one for sale but not sure. Thinking that or go new work axe
@tjpighin
I like both. The China doesn't hold an edge nearly as well as the work axe overall. And you'll have to grind the China head to shape. For a user and abuser the China head wins, it is customizable to your preferences if you have the tools. The work axe is more expensive, but ready to go out of the box essentially and can handle a little narrower bevel. The China head likes to be at 20 degrees, thinner than that and it has always wanted to bend on me. The work axe handles knots and frozen wood really well. If you're looking for a trainer, the China with a but thinner edge in good clean wood is a solid cost effective solution. But for woods work the work axe wins out I think. They are both heavy and not terribly suited to long hikes/walks. Tuatahi also makes trainer axes and I've heard their camp axe is a heck of a chopper and a bit lighter if you're looking more for a woods chopper/semi packable axe. I personally love the work axe, and the China is a good price, but with the China you're gonna have to put in some elbow grease to make a work well for you.
@Jzelenko27 ok great info, that's exactly what I was wondering. I figured the edge was not as hard thanks. Sounds like it's worth buying the woods axe for thw long haul
What are the china heads?
Tuatahi has a budget option for training axes that you grind yourself and are of a different quality steel than their race or actual trainers but are approximately sized and weighted for timbersports training purposes. I've found they work quite well if you put a decent primary bevel into them of about 20 degrees.. They come with the word "CHINA" stamped on them and they refer to them as China heads.