Good video! I knew some of it, but learned a couple new things. Turning the gouge upside down was the biggest help for me. My wings on a couple gouges had issues. I needed to reshape and resharpen. Thanks again.
I have your products, they are great & a lot faster. My question is, if you want to remove the heel on tool a little or a lot you can use a 1" block of wood in the v block. Vari grind already set. I got this idea from Kent on Turn a Wood Bowel.
In previous vid, you suggest set up block #1 for bowl gouges, but use #2 in first gouge you reshape. Whats the dif, and how to know when to use either over the other.I have your set up tools and trying to learn proper use before I grind my gouges to nubs.
Rick, you should have received a DVD with your setup aids. It is very detailed and will explain the difference. The longer setup block is mostly for a traditional bowl gouge grind and for spindle gouges. The shorter setup block is for use with the "Ellsworth-Type" long wing grinds. You will also need to move the leg on your VariGrind 1 down to the fifth notch. It is all explained on the DVD. Ron
Hello Ron, I have been using your setup blocks for quite sometime now with the vari-grind 1. However, I have slipped off the edge of my stone wheel resulting a small blowout. (have CBN wheels on order) My question is do I use your setup blocks with the new Vari-Grind 2 system? It seems to have more control than the Vari-Grind 1.
What are those Allen screws for down where you tighten your arms on your tooling? those lovers you pull tight for your arms to stay in place when you're grinding I saw the Allen screws and I don't know what those are for.
Hi Ron. It's my first visit here and it does teach me a lot but, did you view your video though, before posting it? The up close images of the tool tips are blurry and you need a lighter background to see the tool tip better:) just saying:):)
Some of the higher priced gouges come with a cutting edge, Thompson, Carter and Son and Robert Sorby are brands that come to mind. No HSS turning tool will hold an edge indefinitely. At normal speeds, 1 mile of wood will pass by the cutting edge in 5 minutes. If you have a good quality tool, you will still have to touch up the cutting edge every 20-30 minutes.
Gary: I'm not sure what you are referring to, but 23 degrees is the leg angle on a VariGrind 1. It corresponds to the second notch. The 4th notch is right at 40 deg and the 5th notch is right at 45 deg. Resetting the leg changes how the wings are ground and I use all three settings for different grinds.
Hi Ron. Very informative. I just spoke to you a few minutes ago and purchased several of your products. Now I understand the importance of the blocks. Thanks!
I have always gotten the shape I wanted from Thompson Tools. You certainly have some interesting gadgets, but I think that you are complicating the reshaping of a bowl gouge. I guess they could shorten the learning curve for some new turners
Dan, I developed these setup aids as the result of thousands of questions I received from folks while out on the Woodworking Show Circuit for 13 years. These aids greatly assist new turners struggling with sharpening HSS lathe tools. They are simple, easy and repeatable. I use them myself every day because they are huge time savers.
The only tool I ever strop or debur would be a skew. At normal turning speeds, example turning a bowl, you pass 1 mile of wood past the cutting edge every 2.2 minutes. Any extra refinement would be gone in the first 10-20 seconds. I often put a fresh edge with the 180 CBN on my bowl gouge to make a finishing cut.
At 9:10, I thought we're done shaping and sharpening a bowl gouge. Then at 9:21, we see a different gouge with a red mark. This part seems out of place.
Danny: The gouge I sharpen at 9:20 has a different grind, a long grind. The red mark is supposed to represent the long wing although I should have spent a little more time explaining it. In a later video, I show you the angle setting gauges I use to get the 60 deg nose angle. th-cam.com/video/xVOSodepTnk/w-d-xo.html
Stefano: I designed them, I make them and they are available for sale on my web site. Here are two links for more info: www.ronbrownsbest.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=2&product_id=838 www.ronbrownsbest.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=2&product_id=839 Ron
A little confusing. You talked about a 45 degree angle at the beginning then went to 23 degree on the grinder and finished the grind at 60 degrees. A very good video I'm sure, for the seasoned woodturner but a bit confusing for the novice.
Good video! I knew some of it, but learned a couple new things. Turning the gouge upside down was the biggest help for me. My wings on a couple gouges had issues. I needed to reshape and resharpen. Thanks again.
Thanks Ron. An excellent and informative film . Short and to the point.
That was a very clear and helpful demonstration - thanks Ron!
Thanks so much for the kind feedback!
Thank you. I have now seen what I am doing wrong with a new Hamlet bowl gouge. I have not shaped the wings as required.
I have your products, they are great & a lot faster. My question is, if you want to remove the heel on tool a little or a lot you can use a 1" block of wood in the v block. Vari grind already set. I got this idea from Kent on Turn a Wood Bowel.
I designed a Kick-Out block and include it with our ProGrind. Email me and I'll send you a photo. (ronbrown@coolhammers.com)
I feel this was very helpful. THANKS Ron Brown!
In previous vid, you suggest set up block #1 for bowl gouges, but use #2 in first gouge you reshape. Whats the dif, and how to know when to use either over the other.I have your set up tools and trying to learn proper use before I grind my gouges to nubs.
Rick, you should have received a DVD with your setup aids. It is very detailed and will explain the difference. The longer setup block is mostly for a traditional bowl gouge grind and for spindle gouges. The shorter setup block is for use with the "Ellsworth-Type" long wing grinds. You will also need to move the leg on your VariGrind 1 down to the fifth notch. It is all explained on the DVD.
Ron
Hello Ron, I have been using your setup blocks for quite sometime now with the vari-grind 1. However, I have slipped off the edge of my stone wheel resulting a small blowout. (have CBN wheels on order) My question is do I use your setup blocks with the new Vari-Grind 2 system? It seems to have more control than the Vari-Grind 1.
You can use the setup blocks with almost any brand of tool-holding fixture including the VariGrind 2.
Thanks Ron!@@Ronbrownsbest
Very informal, thanks! Improving the audio with a lavalier mic would greatly improve the audio and the video.
What are those Allen screws for down where you tighten your arms on your tooling? those lovers you pull tight for your arms to stay in place when you're grinding I saw the Allen screws and I don't know what those are for.
Hi Ron. It's my first visit here and it does teach me a lot but, did you view your video though, before posting it? The up close images of the tool tips are blurry and you need a lighter background to see the tool tip better:) just saying:):)
Bruce: Thanks for your input. You might try it in HD, I did and it was crystal clear.
Hi Ron, where can I get the yellow angle blocks please
Do brand new gouges come sharpened
Some of the higher priced gouges come with a cutting edge, Thompson, Carter and Son and Robert Sorby are brands that come to mind. No HSS turning tool will hold an edge indefinitely. At normal speeds, 1 mile of wood will pass by the cutting edge in 5 minutes. If you have a good quality tool, you will still have to touch up the cutting edge every 20-30 minutes.
At the last part, it looks like the angle of 23 degrees for the setup block has changed.???
Gary: I'm not sure what you are referring to, but 23 degrees is the leg angle on a VariGrind 1. It corresponds to the second notch. The 4th notch is right at 40 deg and the 5th notch is right at 45 deg. Resetting the leg changes how the wings are ground and I use all three settings for different grinds.
It looks different at the end.
Hi Ron. Very informative. I just spoke to you a few minutes ago and purchased several of your products. Now I understand the importance of the blocks. Thanks!
Ron you made it look easy.
I have always gotten the shape I wanted from Thompson Tools. You certainly have some interesting gadgets, but I think that you are complicating the reshaping of a bowl gouge. I guess they could shorten the learning curve for some new turners
Dan, I developed these setup aids as the result of thousands of questions I received from folks while out on the Woodworking Show Circuit for 13 years. These aids greatly assist new turners struggling with sharpening HSS lathe tools. They are simple, easy and repeatable. I use them myself every day because they are huge time savers.
Thanks for the info
I have to regrind mine because I personalty prefer 55 to 60 degrees , so ................I will set my machine at 45 degrees ????????
So do you strop or debur at all? 180 cbn the final step? Thanks for your time
The only tool I ever strop or debur would be a skew. At normal turning speeds, example turning a bowl, you pass 1 mile of wood past the cutting edge every 2.2 minutes. Any extra refinement would be gone in the first 10-20 seconds. I often put a fresh edge with the 180 CBN on my bowl gouge to make a finishing cut.
@@Ronbrownsbest thank you so much! Very well explained
Just one more for a grinding jig
At 9:10, I thought we're done shaping and sharpening a bowl gouge. Then at 9:21, we see a different gouge with a red mark. This part seems out of place.
Danny: The gouge I sharpen at 9:20 has a different grind, a long grind. The red mark is supposed to represent the long wing although I should have spent a little more time explaining it. In a later video, I show you the angle setting gauges I use to get the 60 deg nose angle. th-cam.com/video/xVOSodepTnk/w-d-xo.html
Are you just dipping them in water to cool them Ron?
Yes. Some folks not to do it. I've been doing it for 40 years too late to quit now. Besides I'm tired of burning my fingers on hot steel. Ron
Thanks mate, I'll try it.
@@AroGantz Yeah do that, it will make the metal more brittle and need sharpening more often.
Where did you get the yellow angle jigs from?
Stefano: I designed them, I make them and they are available for sale on my web site. Here are two links for more info:
www.ronbrownsbest.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=2&product_id=838
www.ronbrownsbest.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=2&product_id=839
Ron
A little confusing. You talked about a 45 degree angle at the beginning then went to 23 degree on the grinder and finished the grind at 60 degrees.
A very good video I'm sure, for the seasoned woodturner but a bit confusing for the novice.
I'm sorry you are confused. I wish I were a better communicator.
@@Ronbrownsbest Or maybe I was a better listener!
It was different tools and different angles
setup blocks I meant sorry
Pastor Brown, The babbling brook sound from your opening continues throughout except in your cutaways, otherwise it is very good
Alas, a pretty good turner who is still learning video editing. I'll do better next time!
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