Hi guys I just wanted to Introduce to you my other Channel "Things to Know" - which i'm just getting started. It's a go-to channel for insightful worldly explanations, handy tips, and expert advice on everyday things and repairs of domestic items. Here is the link: th-cam.com/channels/O8P9x5kUZ44Fb11vanLFsg.html
Very good explanation & demonstration. Congratulations on your channels growth👍 # 146 I have a video that I though for sure it was a fuel issue, engine would sometime sputter, until I stumbled onto the kill wire shorting out. Stay well, Joe Z
Thank you Joe Z. Really appreciate your comment and feedback. I have seen your channel. You have some really great vids and have given a lot of dedication to pass on your info to help others. Good to hear from you. Craig 👍👍
Hi thanks for the video. I'm having some trouble with my briggs and stratton lawn mower. It stopped running at the end of the season and it never started again. I thought it was the diaphragm, which I changed together with the carburettor. The intake manifold is in good order with no cracks or loose bolts. The spark plug is new and the ignition coil is functioning (I test it with a multimeter and I measured 2.7 k Ohms). I'm getting a bit desperate here. I came across this video the other day and I decided to test for a short circuit. The problem that I face is that the test is always positive like if there is a short circuit, the funny thing is that it seems in short circuit even if I remove the stop wire completely. Like if it's grounding on the engine body directly from the ignition coil. Is this possible? What would you suggest me to check? Best, Fab
I have been looking everywhere to try to verify if my coil is bad with my multimeter. It is for a Briggs and Stratton 10 HP engine. I have seen everywhere on TH-cam about the ohms reading from the HT wire to the armature, and mine is correct there. But nobody tells what the reading should be from the kill tab on the coil to the HT wire, or from the tab to the armature. I am getting 4.6 K ohms from the HT to the armature. I am getting the same reading from the HT wire to the kill tab. I am getting zero ohms from the tab to the armature. So it looks to me like the kill tab is shorted to the armature, so the coil is bad. Correct?
They kinda both are. Since the handle is plastic the kill switch can't ground it there, hence the second wire to return the current to the body of the saw. Disconnecting just one end of either wire will interrupt the system
Hi guys I just wanted to Introduce to you my other Channel "Things to Know" - which i'm just getting started. It's a go-to channel for insightful worldly explanations, handy tips, and expert advice on everyday things and repairs of domestic items. Here is the link: th-cam.com/channels/O8P9x5kUZ44Fb11vanLFsg.html
A nicely animated and thorough explanation for beginners and others. A very nice effort.
Very good explanation & demonstration. Congratulations on your channels growth👍 # 146
I have a video that I though for sure it was a fuel issue, engine would sometime sputter, until I stumbled onto the kill wire shorting out.
Stay well, Joe Z
Thank you Joe Z. Really appreciate your comment and feedback. I have seen your channel. You have some really great vids and have given a lot of dedication to pass on your info to help others. Good to hear from you. Craig 👍👍
@@TheRepairSpecialist You're welcome and thank you for your kind comment.
Good idea - use the CONTINUITY setting to see if the kill switch is working.
Very much on point.
Great stuff.
Quality content t. Thanks.
Thank you for your feedback I really appreciate it. Craig 👍
Good detail, nice!
Hi thanks for the video.
I'm having some trouble with my briggs and stratton lawn mower. It stopped running at the end of the season and it never started again.
I thought it was the diaphragm, which I changed together with the carburettor. The intake manifold is in good order with no cracks or loose bolts. The spark plug is new and the ignition coil is functioning (I test it with a multimeter and I measured 2.7 k Ohms).
I'm getting a bit desperate here. I came across this video the other day and I decided to test for a short circuit.
The problem that I face is that the test is always positive like if there is a short circuit, the funny thing is that it seems in short circuit even if I remove the stop wire completely. Like if it's grounding on the engine body directly from the ignition coil.
Is this possible? What would you suggest me to check?
Best,
Fab
I have been looking everywhere to try to verify if my coil is bad with my multimeter. It is for a Briggs and Stratton 10 HP engine. I have seen everywhere on TH-cam about the ohms reading from the HT wire to the armature, and mine is correct there. But nobody tells what the reading should be from the kill tab on the coil to the HT wire, or from the tab to the armature. I am getting 4.6 K ohms from the HT to the armature. I am getting the same reading from the HT wire to the kill tab. I am getting zero ohms from the tab to the armature. So it looks to me like the kill tab is shorted to the armature, so the coil is bad. Correct?
It might be a bit silly , but on Stihl coil that has two terminals , which is the actual kill wire .
They kinda both are. Since the handle is plastic the kill switch can't ground it there, hence the second wire to return the current to the body of the saw. Disconnecting just one end of either wire will interrupt the system
Close the fuel hose. To kill it.
Completely idiot proof. Good beginners test using a Multimeter.