Thank you for this video! We had just bought our 2015 xp4 1000 and has saved me so much headache a day of just normal greasing turned into major maintenance
Glad I could help. As a side note, when I put the center floor pan piece back together I actually cut in half first. This made the reassembly process much easier. Then just last week I had to replace the U-joints in this machine (7k miles on the machine). Having already cut that floor pan in half made the job go quicker this time around.
You do not need to remove the floor in order to remove your entire prop shaft. Just the center console. Simply remove the 2 bolts. Remove the front roll pin ( I would suggest replacing with a 5/16th 8 grade bolt with nylon nut) Then remove the front yoke from the spline. If you pull forward and position it into the front drivers side pocket of the differential you can push back on the rear shaft enough to separate. With your skid plate removed both sections can easily be pulled out toward the rear of the machine. This gives you the ability to replace your yokes, u-joints, or carrier bearing easily. Then simply replace any parts. Clean your splines. And replace in the opposite order you removed making sure to grease all parts as you reassemble your machine. Good luck!!!
@Clayton Delbo good info regarding swapping the roll pin out for a bolt and lock nut and how to position the shafts for removal. Only problem is that, as you and other videos have mentioned, you need to remove the skid plate. I have an aftermarket full skid plate and can not access several of the mounting bolts because my tree kickers cover them on the underside of the machine. And as I noted in the video, I didn't want to remove the tree kickers because of having to replace the expensive one time use expansion bolts. Otherwise the way you explained it would be a good way to remove the shafts. I have had to do this procedure and to replace my u joints and it went much quicker this time around. Mainly, because when I reassembled the floor pieces the first time around I cut the center floor pan in half. Made it easy to remove the next time around.
Thanks for the video very helpful glad you did this video starting taking mine apart and realized there was more to it then I thought but now I know how to do it thank you.
How did you get the middle piece out? I’ve been trying even with my brother but I cant get it out. Does one side need to be pushed down while the other is lifted? I have no idea lol.
Thanks for the video! I have to go through this process tomorrow but I purchased an aftermarket bearing so I will never have to do this again - fingers crossed! Question for you - what mud flaps do you have installed? I want to get some for my RZR.
Kevin, Im installing the same tree guards on my 2014 xp 1000 and I have the same set up. Aftermarket floorpan guard etc. WHat did oyu use instead of the mounting bolt, a single use expansion bolt? I can't find what you are using. Can you give me a link. I've tried the auto store etc. Do you mean like a construction expansion bolt?
Here's a link to what I used. Found them at my local bolt and screw warehouse. www.lindapter.com/american/Products/Hollow_Section_HSS_Connections/2/Type_HB_Hollo-Bolt
The main bundle of wires (and buss bar cables) run underneath the floor pan as you can see in the video with the remaining front floor pan still in place. The only wires I had running on top of the rear floor pan, but underneath the center console pieces, were the wires for my turn signal kit and belt temp gauge. There was enough slack in the wires that I was able to pull up on them while I pulled the floor pan out the rear door area. Hope that helps.
Yes. The rear seat belts will come out, along with the rear seat base. This needs to be removed so the rear close-off cover piece (covers the fuel tank and houses the battery) can come out.
![일상 속 기분 좋음 [Proto disco meme]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DwmEIaZ7XGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for this video! We had just bought our 2015 xp4 1000 and has saved me so much headache a day of just normal greasing turned into major maintenance
Glad I could help. As a side note, when I put the center floor pan piece back together I actually cut in half first. This made the reassembly process much easier. Then just last week I had to replace the U-joints in this machine (7k miles on the machine). Having already cut that floor pan in half made the job go quicker this time around.
You do not need to remove the floor in order to remove your entire prop shaft. Just the center console. Simply remove the 2 bolts. Remove the front roll pin ( I would suggest replacing with a 5/16th 8 grade bolt with nylon nut) Then remove the front yoke from the spline. If you pull forward and position it into the front drivers side pocket of the differential you can push back on the rear shaft enough to separate. With your skid plate removed both sections can easily be pulled out toward the rear of the machine. This gives you the ability to replace your yokes, u-joints, or carrier bearing easily. Then simply replace any parts. Clean your splines. And replace in the opposite order you removed making sure to grease all parts as you reassemble your machine. Good luck!!!
@Clayton Delbo good info regarding swapping the roll pin out for a bolt and lock nut and how to position the shafts for removal. Only problem is that, as you and other videos have mentioned, you need to remove the skid plate. I have an aftermarket full skid plate and can not access several of the mounting bolts because my tree kickers cover them on the underside of the machine. And as I noted in the video, I didn't want to remove the tree kickers because of having to replace the expensive one time use expansion bolts. Otherwise the way you explained it would be a good way to remove the shafts. I have had to do this procedure and to replace my u joints and it went much quicker this time around. Mainly, because when I reassembled the floor pieces the first time around I cut the center floor pan in half. Made it easy to remove the next time around.
Thanks for the video very helpful glad you did this video starting taking mine apart and realized there was more to it then I thought but now I know how to do it thank you.
@Aaron Mccaffery You are welcome.
How did you get the middle piece out? I’ve been trying even with my brother but I cant get it out. Does one side need to be pushed down while the other is lifted? I have no idea lol.
Thanks for the video! I have to go through this process tomorrow but I purchased an aftermarket bearing so I will never have to do this again - fingers crossed! Question for you - what mud flaps do you have installed? I want to get some for my RZR.
Those are rokblokz mud flaps
HOLY CRAP Bro!! Why did you remove all of that. Easily accessible by just removing skid plate. More than 1 way to skin a cat, I guess!
Having trouble getting the rear yoke on to the transmission. Does it have have splines that need to be lined up properly. Feeling pretty frustrated😤😂
Sorry it took me a while to back to you. Yes, the output shaft on the transmission has splines that the slip yoke should slide onto.
Kevin, Im installing the same tree guards on my 2014 xp 1000 and I have the same set up. Aftermarket floorpan guard etc. WHat did oyu use instead of the mounting bolt, a single use expansion bolt? I can't find what you are using. Can you give me a link. I've tried the auto store etc. Do you mean like a construction expansion bolt?
Here's a link to what I used. Found them at my local bolt and screw warehouse. www.lindapter.com/american/Products/Hollow_Section_HSS_Connections/2/Type_HB_Hollo-Bolt
How did you get the floor pan out with the wires
The main bundle of wires (and buss bar cables) run underneath the floor pan as you can see in the video with the remaining front floor pan still in place. The only wires I had running on top of the rear floor pan, but underneath the center console pieces, were the wires for my turn signal kit and belt temp gauge. There was enough slack in the wires that I was able to pull up on them while I pulled the floor pan out the rear door area. Hope that helps.
Great video👍🏻love the content !
Good video
Did you remove the rear seat belts? I can’t get that back floor board out, got the middle one out tho
Yes. The rear seat belts will come out, along with the rear seat base. This needs to be removed so the rear close-off cover piece (covers the fuel tank and houses the battery) can come out.