10:25 Last time I was at Outback Steakhouse, I ordered a Bloomin’ Issue and they didn’t know what I was talking about. I just said Nevermind. Great job!
Some newer HR7506 LOPTs made in 2023 (the date code on mine) have a metal bar on the iron backbone, which sits flush with the flyback's bottom rather than being slightly raised. This allows the metal bar and iron backbone to contact the PCB when mounted, posing a risk due to the bare traces 9403 and 9404. Additionally, pin 4 on some newer units is shifted ~4mm toward the rear of the monitor PCB, requiring a jumper wire to connect it to pin 5 or a drilled via with a small bridge pin 5 on the bottom to ensure proper connection. I wonder what others have done in these cases.
Nice video! I have an identical 1084S-P that had an identical failure of the flyback where you could still hear the power supply frequency, but nothing else. I tried replacing the flyback with an original one from another 1084 and that worked perfectly. An HR7506 was duly ordered from WagnerOnline and it finally arrived about two months later. I fitted it and straightaway had a ‘fizzing’ at the sides of the picture - worse when the brightness was increased. I brushed against the high-voltage wire and it fell out of the flyback - I couldn’t see how it was supposed to be attached, so I soldered a spring to the centre wire and pushed the wire into the hole with some hot glue through the slots in the casing. This immediately solved the fizzing problem and I had a nice picture - until the flyback warmed up (about ten minutes). It gets hot to the touch and then it arcs somewhere in the middle (can see the flash around the ferrite core, in a dark room). So a loud snap sound and the picture jumps every 30 seconds. I notice these are not sealed around the core as the originals are, and the core also looks crooked/bent. I checked the 125V is correct and I don’t see what else could be causing the flyback to arc when an original flyback did not. I guess WagnerOnline won’t want to replace this, especially with the hot glue and spring, but my question is whether I should take a chance on another one? It’s getting expensive. Thanks for reading
I wonder if the flyback for the PAL monitors is different from NTSC monitors? You seem to constantly be running into these with bad flyback. I haven't had one be bad yet over on this side of the pond.
Mine had light use from new 1990-1994 and then went into storage for 25 years. The flyback blew about 2 months after I got it out. So I don't think it's down to usage/hours.
I had a Philips CM8833 which this is based on and it could handle PAL (50fps) as well as CGA (60fps). I know there are many versions of this monitor but I don't think there was a reason to put a different flyback in the NTSC version.
Hi guys! I have the Phillips version of the 1084 and also want to add a scart connector and S-video inputs by bypassing the composite video separation filters. I hope you show those processes and mods!
They put different models of power switches into these monitors. The ones usually failing are the Preh ones, which can be distinguished by their mostly plastic casing. The one in your monitor is a Matsushita one, which are usually fine.
It's a good idea to also swap the HOT (clamped to the large metal plate at the flyback) when swapping flyback. 2SD1577 is common (marked D1577). I usually also swap the caps in the powersupply and its switch , then adjust the voltage on the pot (125V on the latest 1084). In the latest one also all the circa 50 electrolytic capacitors. Those HR-brand flybacks seems to require rotating the image slightly. Usually it's enough to loosen the screw on the neck and twist a little. Had that happen several times.
Does the BU508AF work for the substitution (looks like it should)? Seems to have the same specs, and no metal backing. Also, when CBM sent out the "Repair Kit" in 1988 for these, they replaced (as a rule), R475 and C476 at the same time as the flyback/LOPT. We now know to replace the HOT too because it and the flyback/LOPT usually go out in pairs. BTW, my R475 2W had black overheating below it and you can barely read the value on it.
Yes, should work, it's the original version in a lot of C= 1084 models. The 2SD1577 can take 1500V and 5A, the BU508AF 700V and 8A - don't know what is actually used. I swapped that resistor as well as it was recommended by a former C= service technician. If that cap is an electrolytic cap... swap.
Yeah I used to check the HOT to make sure it was ok as I hear they do get taken out at the same time. But I'm yet to get one with a bad HOT. Maybe I've become a little too complacent 😆
Pretty sure I replaced R475 with a 5W in another 1084. I didn't do it in this one as it didn't look too scorched underneath, unlike the other one which had obviously been cooking. Do you have any more details on the repair kit they sent out? I'm curious if Commodore knew that these flybacks had a high failure rate and perhaps used a different flyback in their repair kit
Glad you both are here! I have the Phillips version of this monitor and I was thinking of trying to mod it for S-video and add a scart connector. I worked in NTSC video at Kodak years ago, so I am familiar with the test patterns and setup but never worked inside the monitors. So I’m looking forward to seeing your scart addition and seeing if you can bypass the composite input separation filters.
The scart mod is pretty straight forward as you'll see. Not sure about s-video for the non s-video models. It's not something I've looked into as I've only worked on the Commodore versions that already have the separate luma chroma
@@TheRetroChannel from my past work experience I know that composite video needs to be separated back into L and C on the main board of virtually any device using composite input. so it should go through some passive filters. I think I could trace it out with a scope, find the L and C signal and patch them back to some rca connections for S-video. Only issue may be getting the proper signal levels, some additional circuitry may be needed to accomplish that. Iwill update you if I have results!
@bobsbarnworkshop exactly. I would take a look at the schematics for both the Philips and Commodore versions and see where they differ. It may help determine the components required
I threw 2 or 3 away of those when they died. I used one for some time, it died and if I recall correctly, the one that replaced it also died within a few weeks. In the garbage it goes as the 8 bit guy would say. Power LED seems broken Switch is mostly compatible with PREH TV3, it was sold for a few cents but all the retro guys resell it for xx amount of bucks now. Sad story but true.
I have a twin model of this monitor as Philips CM8833, manufactured in 1987. Unfortunately, older models had a completely different flyback transformer, there are no replacements for them available (HR6489). They have a physically different pinout. I fitted a transformer from a newer version as in the film (HR7506). Electrically everything fits. I had to remove several elements, including the FOCUS potentiometer from the CRT neck PCB. Because in the newer model it is built into the flyback transformer. 🧐
Sounds like my 1084 (non S model). Different flyback and the screen and focus controls are on the neck board. Thankfully the flyback in that is still good, I really hope it continues working now
I had the flyback (HR7506) replaced in my Philips CM8833 a few years ago. It has the same bloom/breath as yours does here where I'm pretty sure the original didn't.
I'd highly recommend opening yours up and double checking which flyback is in there, there should be a part number on it which you can punch into HR-Diemen's website. Commodore/Philips used at least 3 different flybacks in the 1084
I have a 1084s that failed, producing a whining noise just 4 days ago.I left it running, went for dinner, came back and there was a high pitched whine. I was wondering, in your video, you talk over the point where you turn off the monitor with it whining away. When you turn it off, did the whine decrease in pitch in a stepped manner. Mine does this for about 7 seconds or so, almost sounds like a vocoder effect?
Yes, it sounds exactly like that once you turn it off. It sucks that it's such a common failure but at least they all seem to make the same sound to let you know the flyback has died
It may not be the flyback if it's the one with the red and blue grommets on top. The only ones that seem to be failing are the one in this video, and the one in the 1084S-P1
@@TheRetroChannel There was a very high pitched whine for quite some time before it went black, which others have said indicates the flyback. It is the one with red and blue as you said, E39144/36371 and I haven't been able to find one. THough, I'd be happy if that's not the issue. The question then is what it might be instead. Looking at the board there is no obvious bad solderpoints.
@anakondase Hmm, high pitched whine before it died may indeed be a bad flyback. For my 1084 with that same flyback, it didn't work due to some bad joints. Sounds like you may not have such luck
@@TheRetroChannel I'm gonna take it apart and reflow whatever I can just in case. Hasn't been connected to anything for about 8 months now so it should be safe to work on as well. Not having much hope though. It's sad, I've had it since 1988 when I got it brand new together with my A500. But it has served me well for 37 years.
My "temporary" fix for the power switches on Philips monitors like this one or the monochrome Computer Monitor 80, is to solder both wires to one terminal. However I'm in the UK, so it's still easy to turn the monitor on and off using the switch on the mains socket, without unplugging it. Don't tell Alec from Technology Connections though.
10:25 Last time I was at Outback Steakhouse, I ordered a Bloomin’ Issue and they didn’t know what I was talking about. I just said Nevermind. Great job!
Your hockey hair is filling in nicely and you've already got your playoffs beard. Great video. I didn't know these could be replaced.
The monitor looks great. Well done!
Some newer HR7506 LOPTs made in 2023 (the date code on mine) have a metal bar on the iron backbone, which sits flush with the flyback's bottom rather than being slightly raised. This allows the metal bar and iron backbone to contact the PCB when mounted, posing a risk due to the bare traces 9403 and 9404. Additionally, pin 4 on some newer units is shifted ~4mm toward the rear of the monitor PCB, requiring a jumper wire to connect it to pin 5 or a drilled via with a small bridge pin 5 on the bottom to ensure proper connection. I wonder what others have done in these cases.
Nice video!
I have an identical 1084S-P that had an identical failure of the flyback where you could still hear the power supply frequency, but nothing else.
I tried replacing the flyback with an original one from another 1084 and that worked perfectly.
An HR7506 was duly ordered from WagnerOnline and it finally arrived about two months later. I fitted it and straightaway had a ‘fizzing’ at the sides of the picture - worse when the brightness was increased. I brushed against the high-voltage wire and it fell out of the flyback - I couldn’t see how it was supposed to be attached, so I soldered a spring to the centre wire and pushed the wire into the hole with some hot glue through the slots in the casing. This immediately solved the fizzing problem and I had a nice picture - until the flyback warmed up (about ten minutes). It gets hot to the touch and then it arcs somewhere in the middle (can see the flash around the ferrite core, in a dark room). So a loud snap sound and the picture jumps every 30 seconds. I notice these are not sealed around the core as the originals are, and the core also looks crooked/bent.
I checked the 125V is correct and I don’t see what else could be causing the flyback to arc when an original flyback did not.
I guess WagnerOnline won’t want to replace this, especially with the hot glue and spring, but my question is whether I should take a chance on another one? It’s getting expensive. Thanks for reading
I wonder if the flyback for the PAL monitors is different from NTSC monitors? You seem to constantly be running into these with bad flyback. I haven't had one be bad yet over on this side of the pond.
Yeah weird. I think the 1084 (non S version) is the only one I've had that didn't have a bad flyback, just some cold joints
Mine had light use from new 1990-1994 and then went into storage for 25 years. The flyback blew about 2 months after I got it out. So I don't think it's down to usage/hours.
I had a Philips CM8833 which this is based on and it could handle PAL (50fps) as well as CGA (60fps). I know there are many versions of this monitor but I don't think there was a reason to put a different flyback in the NTSC version.
Hi guys! I have the Phillips version of the 1084 and also want to add a scart connector and S-video inputs by bypassing the composite video separation filters. I hope you show those processes and mods!
The flyback is the same between the two video formats. All that changes happens elsewhere. It's mostly frequency setup.
Very nice! Glad these flybacks are still available!
If this is the Christmas 'mo I can't wait for Easter.
They put different models of power switches into these monitors. The ones usually failing are the Preh ones, which can be distinguished by their mostly plastic casing. The one in your monitor is a Matsushita one, which are usually fine.
That's the ones. I've had to replace a few of the Preh switches, pieces of junk
SICK GOATEE DUDE
Nice vid! Looking forward to the scart video, Im installing one too later on.
Happy new year. Damn that haircut is getting insane levels of swag.
It's a good idea to also swap the HOT (clamped to the large metal plate at the flyback) when swapping flyback. 2SD1577 is common (marked D1577).
I usually also swap the caps in the powersupply and its switch , then adjust the voltage on the pot (125V on the latest 1084).
In the latest one also all the circa 50 electrolytic capacitors.
Those HR-brand flybacks seems to require rotating the image slightly. Usually it's enough to loosen the screw on the neck and twist a little. Had that happen several times.
Does the BU508AF work for the substitution (looks like it should)? Seems to have the same specs, and no metal backing. Also, when CBM sent out the "Repair Kit" in 1988 for these, they replaced (as a rule), R475 and C476 at the same time as the flyback/LOPT. We now know to replace the HOT too because it and the flyback/LOPT usually go out in pairs. BTW, my R475 2W had black overheating below it and you can barely read the value on it.
Yes, should work, it's the original version in a lot of C= 1084 models.
The 2SD1577 can take 1500V and 5A, the BU508AF 700V and 8A - don't know what is actually used.
I swapped that resistor as well as it was recommended by a former C= service technician.
If that cap is an electrolytic cap... swap.
Yeah I used to check the HOT to make sure it was ok as I hear they do get taken out at the same time. But I'm yet to get one with a bad HOT. Maybe I've become a little too complacent 😆
Pretty sure I replaced R475 with a 5W in another 1084. I didn't do it in this one as it didn't look too scorched underneath, unlike the other one which had obviously been cooking.
Do you have any more details on the repair kit they sent out? I'm curious if Commodore knew that these flybacks had a high failure rate and perhaps used a different flyback in their repair kit
@@TheRetroChannelBut it's annoying if it should break and take the new flyback with it.
Happy New Year🎉🍻! Great Video Like Always!👍🏻👌🏻
thankyou, a great repair :)
I have two 1084 monitors working, they were the best thing since sliced bread for ataris and amigas
Love the 1084
Great job buddy! Another one saved:)
That Konami t-shirt is mad fresh 👌👍
Glad you both are here! I have the Phillips version of this monitor and I was thinking of trying to mod it for S-video and add a scart connector. I worked in NTSC video at Kodak years ago, so I am familiar with the test patterns and setup but never worked inside the monitors. So I’m looking forward to seeing your scart addition and seeing if you can bypass the composite input separation filters.
The scart mod is pretty straight forward as you'll see. Not sure about s-video for the non s-video models. It's not something I've looked into as I've only worked on the Commodore versions that already have the separate luma chroma
@@TheRetroChannel from my past work experience I know that composite video needs to be separated back into L and C on the main board of virtually any device using composite input. so it should go through some passive filters. I think I could trace it out with a scope, find the L and C signal and patch them back to some rca connections for S-video. Only issue may be getting the proper signal levels, some additional circuitry may be needed to accomplish that. Iwill update you if I have results!
@bobsbarnworkshop exactly. I would take a look at the schematics for both the Philips and Commodore versions and see where they differ. It may help determine the components required
The power switch for a 1084 can be found super easy. Due to being so notorious for going bad that's the one part you can find without issue.
I threw 2 or 3 away of those when they died. I used one for some time, it died and if I recall correctly, the one that replaced it also died within a few weeks. In the garbage it goes as the 8 bit guy would say.
Power LED seems broken
Switch is mostly compatible with PREH TV3, it was sold for a few cents but all the retro guys resell it for xx amount of bucks now. Sad story but true.
Cool video. Monitor looks like new !!!
I can see why Valterri Bottas’ big takeaway from living in Australia is the beard and mullet. Looks swag.
I'm still watching the vid but is that a Mullet you have? Love it...
You're not sponsored by PCB-Way? No way!!!
No wayyyyyyyyy
I have a twin model of this monitor as Philips CM8833, manufactured in 1987. Unfortunately, older models had a completely different flyback transformer, there are no replacements for them available (HR6489). They have a physically different pinout. I fitted a transformer from a newer version as in the film (HR7506). Electrically everything fits. I had to remove several elements, including the FOCUS potentiometer from the CRT neck PCB. Because in the newer model it is built into the flyback transformer. 🧐
Sounds like my 1084 (non S model). Different flyback and the screen and focus controls are on the neck board. Thankfully the flyback in that is still good, I really hope it continues working now
The most Aussie look.
Scart mod yeah!!!
Great video can I ask what did you use to clean the monitor tube.
Window cleaner on the front, dry cloth on the back
I had the flyback (HR7506) replaced in my Philips CM8833 a few years ago. It has the same bloom/breath as yours does here where I'm pretty sure the original didn't.
Wrong transformer ~ the replacement for the CM8833 chassis is HR7533
@@gcbification No. HR7533 is for the MK2. Mine is a MK1.
Great work ;) ... what was the part number of the flyback?. I've one that is doing exactly the same .. regards Steve
I'd highly recommend opening yours up and double checking which flyback is in there, there should be a part number on it which you can punch into HR-Diemen's website. Commodore/Philips used at least 3 different flybacks in the 1084
@TheRetroChannel cheers, I'll take a look .. 😉
Nice repair. FYI I get ads every four minutes which is way too much so I only watched the first 20 minutes.
Mine needs to warmup before stable image. So some bad capacitor somewhere. Im just guessing.
I have a 1084s that failed, producing a whining noise just 4 days ago.I left it running, went for dinner, came back and there was a high pitched whine. I was wondering, in your video, you talk over the point where you turn off the monitor with it whining away. When you turn it off, did the whine decrease in pitch in a stepped manner. Mine does this for about 7 seconds or so, almost sounds like a vocoder effect?
Yes, it sounds exactly like that once you turn it off. It sucks that it's such a common failure but at least they all seem to make the same sound to let you know the flyback has died
Put the TV down on a towel and it will be easy to turn around without scratching the glass ...
Where's the fun in that? But seriously, the tube on these is recessed far back enough that only the bezel touches the bench when face down
@@TheRetroChannelIf it’s like the later 1084s then that bezel is painted. And it can be scratched. Ask me how I know 😣
PS. Awesome barnet mate!
Thanks. And yeah that bezel is painted, but the surface of my ESD mat is smooth and I made sure it was clean first
🍪
📺❤️
My old 1084 (non-S) died for me last year. I'm pretty sure it's the flyback but that flyback model, even the copy, is sadly unobtanium these days.
It may not be the flyback if it's the one with the red and blue grommets on top. The only ones that seem to be failing are the one in this video, and the one in the 1084S-P1
@@TheRetroChannel There was a very high pitched whine for quite some time before it went black, which others have said indicates the flyback. It is the one with red and blue as you said, E39144/36371 and I haven't been able to find one. THough, I'd be happy if that's not the issue. The question then is what it might be instead. Looking at the board there is no obvious bad solderpoints.
@anakondase Hmm, high pitched whine before it died may indeed be a bad flyback. For my 1084 with that same flyback, it didn't work due to some bad joints. Sounds like you may not have such luck
@@TheRetroChannel I'm gonna take it apart and reflow whatever I can just in case. Hasn't been connected to anything for about 8 months now so it should be safe to work on as well. Not having much hope though. It's sad, I've had it since 1988 when I got it brand new together with my A500. But it has served me well for 37 years.
My "temporary" fix for the power switches on Philips monitors like this one or the monochrome Computer Monitor 80, is to solder both wires to one terminal. However I'm in the UK, so it's still easy to turn the monitor on and off using the switch on the mains socket, without unplugging it. Don't tell Alec from Technology Connections though.
Haha, yeah I could do the same and just use the switch on the mains outlet. But like you say, just don't tell Alec 😄