Thank you so much for this series. I've learned quite a bit from it. Thanks also for the Autosol tip. Would be interesting to hear a bit of your "breaking in" session - maybe a 4 - 5 minute clip of some of your "jamming" accompanied by commentary on what you're trying to listen for, get a feel for, as well as how and why you make the adjustments you make in the process. I'm sure I speak for some others when I say that we'd also just like to hear you play, and hear that sweet sounding guitar a bit more...
With the correct information and the correct tools a level and re-crown isn't as difficult as I thought it would be. .I take it really slow and I'm overly cautious. .ur the man. .
Think my way is a much longer way depending on the condition of the frets I'd start on 800 grit (600 if they're really scratched) and go along the fret one at a time, sides and the crown, and 1200 grit just to tidy up. Then Micromesh sheets from 1500 to 12000...takes a while, arms help from RSI kicking in, but you get the best looking and sounding frets you'll ever see! And you can get away with just using a fret guard instead of taping the fingerboard
I would love to see a video on how you approach scalloping a nut. I think they look bloody great from an aesthetic point of view and wonder if a scalloped nut is beneficial to the sound quality. Thoughts?
Autosol been also using for decades primarily as a metal polish . Was looking at polisihing 3m stuff and then stumbled on your vid. Amroal it is , thx bro
When hand-polishing Ben mainly uses Autosol and Jewellers Rouge on the polishing wheel. This was a very old video and some things have changed since then. ;) DC
How cool is the aluminium nut eh? Sweet looking, but also, would using a Zero Fret yield the same sound as this one? Could you make a video about Zero's? Why there are so few, I mean, properly done the action and feel and consistency of sound across the fretboard is just amazing!
Whats the most appropriate grit to use for polishing. Different YT videos and different forums suggest different things from 400 to 1200. Yourself included in another video suggested a different grit to what you use here. What would you advise to be best? Many thanks my friend.
Great video. I'm afraid to use the dremel because of what you said. But maybe it'll be okay because the felt buffing wheels are brand new. My new neck has ss frets with a few tiny rough spots on 2 frets. I want to buff frets completely smooth before cut the nut and mount on Strat body.
How does the polish shininess gold up compared to the 8000 grit polishing paper used in the Dunlop kit? That's what I've been using on my Warwick frets but they don't stay shiny for long. I wonder if the 2000 grit plus compound will make a huge difference, and if it's safe for bell brass frets. Love your videos, gives us more confidence in more diy work.
Solvol Autosol has never been and is not a chrome polish as it is too gritty and scratches chrome, it is however a fantastic metal polish, ie, alloy and is very suitable for this job.
Hi Ben I like the Crimson guitar channel. Just found that recently. I need to clean my guitar frets and can't find autosol chrome cleaners in my area. Do you have a second choice of chrome cleaner. Thanks.
Autosol is better in my opinion. I even prefer micro-mesh to fret rubbers. Fret rubbers are fine but others give it a higher shine than fret rubbers. I think fret rubbers are good if you haven't got anything else or want something fast or you content with the result rubbers achieve. But again autosol and micromesh gives a higher shine than fret rubbers in my opinion
Oh, goodness, I just found this channel. I am wondering what to do with my guitar if I ever wanna add a personal touch and wondering what doing like... Contours along an already pretty thick body would do to the harmonics and tone should I cut, sand, and re-finish such a thing properly... Also, is it possible to *partially* remove the old finish or re-finish while retaining some colour on the wood that was previously left by the dye? Like, if I wanted to kinda keep some of the pigment already there and stain it a little to make red more purple and then refinish it? If there's a forum you'd recommend, please mention it. Good channel btw. These beautiful.
I didn't really need to polish the fret ends, so it wasn't necessary from that point of view, however, in reality it was because the camera was all set up and going before I realised the narrow take was at the other side of the room.. Pure laziness I'm afraid :(
from my understanding putting oil on your fretboard will loosen the frets and they may come undone they are only hammered in and the oil will loosen them to pop out
Maybe if you have a very poor fret job and soak it in litres of oil.. Almost every guitar made with an un lacquered fretboard is oiled and needs reoiling throughout its life.
+Crimson Custom Guitars No. The only "bad" thing that can happen to a fretboard over its life is that it may become dehydrated (i.e. looses moisture (water) content) in which case properly rehumidifying it is the only correct solution. Adding some form of external oil or "conditioner", will actually inhibit the wood's ability to reabsorb and release moisture when needed. Remember, oil and water don't mix, so don't put oil on something that needs to/will be able to gain/lose moisture over time. Better to store it in a properly humidified environment. It's no different than how you treat your timber stores. I mean, you don't go in the room and spray all of your stock down with oil every year, I hope.
You should start with 1500 grit , then, as a good guide, work your way through 2400, 3600, 8000 and finally 12000. The 1500 will even up the frets and give them a nice shine. As you go finer and finer, you start to seriously polish the frets getting them into perfect condition. Or - you could use www.crimsonguitars.com/collections/fretting/products/wooden-leather-strop and www.crimsonguitars.com/collections/fretting/products/fret-rubber-fret-polishing-abrasive
Just IMHO, no offense meant, I don't think you don't need a knife, just fold the tape back on itself to make it narrower. You cut enough times you're bound to make a mistake, especially if you're a do-it-yourselfer. OOps!
So I've had an idea for a little while now about making a top out of a bunch of layers of say 2-3 mm thick wood laminate in alternating wood types, then shaping for a "concentric circle" effect. Seems like it should look very cool... Has anyone seen this anywhere and if so where so I may see?
gibson made some whacky rainbow sg at some point out of colored wood. zoot suit is what they called it. apart from me disliking sg's in general, i think it looks quite cool. although it would be much classier with just alternating woods instead of the full on rainbow looking thing gibson made.
check out the neck through hollow body guitar made by stu wilf. SAW Guitars. You Tube video, he does not say how it is made only that it takes about 9 months to produce it...Very Very unique....Cheers
Yes, it does work, but the pieces of it get into everything; including the pickups. It's much better to use 1000, 1500, and then 2000 grit sandpaper. And, then, after that, use a polishing compound to put the final shine on the frets.
Going from 1500 grit to autosol will NOT get out the scratches you've just put across the frets which will make bends less smooth and sound clicky . You should use the paper along the frets before the polishing stage . If you can find it use Micromesh paper that goes down to 12000 grit - but is expensive ' You can also use almost dry T Cut on a cloth if you have no metal polish . I have done this job on hundreds of guitars / banjos / mandolins and this video should be filed under " how not to "
Why so antagonististic? I've never said that my methods are the only, or even the best. If you really want to you can polish a fret until you fingers bleed and you've spent half your budget on polishing supplies, problem is within weeks atmospherics will always tarnish a very highly polished fret and even if you only go up to 1500 grit wet and dry and then use chrome polish there really is no discernable difference in feel.. No scratching, no clicking, and less effort and expense. I may not have been doing this as long as you but you can believe me I DON'T lie to my followers.
Michael Barnes Yep I was being a bit of an ass and picking faults - I just saw some errors in this vid - I was harsh and Ben seems the nicest self effacing guy - and for that I apologise
Crimson Custom Guitars Sorry for being flippant - and we have different skills . You make guitars and I repair / set up everything from cheap ukuleles to £4000 double basses . I was just taught fretwork by a top classical gtr maker who would bust my balls if I didn't end up working along the frets to remove all those cross scratches . I don't doubt your enthusiasm / integrity and wanting to share the knowledge - and crap - we're always learning - sometimes the hard way .( Note to self - If you mask off a fboard don't leave it sitting in the sun for days before trying to remove it - ouch) Tim
Crimson, you always have very useful tips but i must disagree with you on this video. You should always sand parallel to the frets. You want to remove scratches from playing wear and leveling jobs, NOT create new scratches. Cheers!
I see what you're saying but the end result is the same, I polish the scratches from the paper out by the time I'm done.. If you sand along the length of each fret it takes a little longer to do the job but does mean that of you miss some scratches they have much less effect on the playing.. I should, and will, mention this method from now on as a valid option but in the end as long as you get every scratch the result should be the same.. perfection.
In all the hundreds of videos I've watched I think that is the first time I've heard you actually play anything :)
Allan McKenzie hy
wasnt comfortable doing my jackson rhoads and esp eclipse. watched ur vid, now have frets like glass. thank u so much.
Hey, it is my pleasure! btw impeccable taste in guitars there! Nice!! B
@@CrimsonCustomGuitars thank u, i watch one of ur vids everyday. ive learned so much about basic to advanced guitar repair.
Thank you so much for this series. I've learned quite a bit from it. Thanks also for the Autosol tip. Would be interesting to hear a bit of your "breaking in" session - maybe a 4 - 5 minute clip of some of your "jamming" accompanied by commentary on what you're trying to listen for, get a feel for, as well as how and why you make the adjustments you make in the process. I'm sure I speak for some others when I say that we'd also just like to hear you play, and hear that sweet sounding guitar a bit more...
just done this on a squire strat I was given for free, results were fantastic, frets came up like new, great video
Holy crap this was informative. Thank you for instructing how to perform this very beneficial maintenance.
With the correct information and the correct tools a level and re-crown isn't as difficult as I thought it would be. .I take it really slow and I'm overly cautious. .ur the man. .
Nice to watch a quality craftsman at work ! Thanks for the help.
Autosol really is nice on the frets, bending and vibrato is effortless!
That’s a killer workshop you have there. Nice video, thanks for sharing.
I totally see Bill Bailey when he looks straight into the camera. Spooky!..
Great video - Cheers!
I'd thought that completely independently! :)
Think my way is a much longer way depending on the condition of the frets I'd start on 800 grit (600 if they're really scratched) and go along the fret one at a time, sides and the crown, and 1200 grit just to tidy up. Then Micromesh sheets from 1500 to 12000...takes a while, arms help from RSI kicking in, but you get the best looking and sounding frets you'll ever see! And you can get away with just using a fret guard instead of taping the fingerboard
I would love to see a video on how you approach scalloping a nut. I think they look bloody great from an aesthetic point of view and wonder if a scalloped nut is beneficial to the sound quality. Thoughts?
Autosol been also using for decades primarily as a metal polish . Was looking at polisihing 3m stuff and then stumbled on your vid. Amroal it is , thx bro
When hand-polishing Ben mainly uses Autosol and Jewellers Rouge on the polishing wheel. This was a very old video and some things have changed since then. ;) DC
@@CrimsonCustomGuitars lol ya noticed after posting the video was 7 years old thx for the reply .....
How cool is the aluminium nut eh? Sweet looking, but also, would using a Zero Fret yield the same sound as this one? Could you make a video about Zero's? Why there are so few, I mean, properly done the action and feel and consistency of sound across the fretboard is just amazing!
Yes, it would have the same effect of tone and done right a zero fret feels awesome. Problem is I find then ugly, it is subjective I know, but still..
What happens if some of the autosol polish goes onto the fretboard somehow??
Whats the most appropriate grit to use for polishing. Different YT videos and different forums suggest different things from 400 to 1200. Yourself included in another video suggested a different grit to what you use here. What would you advise to be best? Many thanks my friend.
Great video. I'm afraid to use the dremel because of what you said. But maybe it'll be okay because the felt buffing wheels are brand new. My new neck has ss frets with a few tiny rough spots on 2 frets. I want to buff frets completely smooth before cut the nut and mount on Strat body.
How does the polish shininess gold up compared to the 8000 grit polishing paper used in the Dunlop kit? That's what I've been using on my Warwick frets but they don't stay shiny for long. I wonder if the 2000 grit plus compound will make a huge difference, and if it's safe for bell brass frets.
Love your videos, gives us more confidence in more diy work.
Solvol Autosol has never been and is not a chrome polish as it is too gritty and scratches chrome, it is however a fantastic metal polish, ie, alloy and is very suitable for this job.
Hi Ben, About those true temperament necks, what are your thoughts? Do you have any videos about that? Thanks, and awesome videos!
Hi Ben I like the Crimson guitar channel. Just found that recently. I need to clean my guitar frets and can't find autosol chrome cleaners in my area. Do you have a second choice of chrome cleaner. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. I'm curious as to why you didn't just use a fret rubber that you sell on your website.
Gordon Smith i reckon
Autosol is better in my opinion. I even prefer micro-mesh to fret rubbers. Fret rubbers are fine but others give it a higher shine than fret rubbers. I think fret rubbers are good if you haven't got anything else or want something fast or you content with the result rubbers achieve. But again autosol and micromesh gives a higher shine than fret rubbers in my opinion
Would you recommend using a fine grade of microfibre cloth? 3600 grade instead of using metal polish and tissue paper?
Oh, goodness, I just found this channel.
I am wondering what to do with my guitar if I ever wanna add a personal touch and wondering what doing like... Contours along an already pretty thick body would do to the harmonics and tone should I cut, sand, and re-finish such a thing properly...
Also, is it possible to *partially* remove the old finish or re-finish while retaining some colour on the wood that was previously left by the dye?
Like, if I wanted to kinda keep some of the pigment already there and stain it a little to make red more purple and then refinish it?
If there's a forum you'd recommend, please mention it. Good channel btw. These beautiful.
Shouldnt you cut under both sides not just one? Any rate excellent video...
Hi,
Just a note to wish you the best of holidays and a fantastic New 2015!
Take care
mrbluenun
What is wrong with using steel wool to polish the frets?
Thanks very much. I ordered an Autosol Metal Polish on eBay :-)
Why didn't you put a long strip of tape across the binding of the breadboard to help lift the individual pieces of tape like you usually do?
I didn't really need to polish the fret ends, so it wasn't necessary from that point of view, however, in reality it was because the camera was all set up and going before I realised the narrow take was at the other side of the room.. Pure laziness I'm afraid :(
Are you guys going to the Holy Grail Guitar show? It seems like a biggy.
What a gorgeous guitar
from my understanding putting oil on your fretboard will loosen the frets and they may come undone they are only hammered in and the oil will loosen them to pop out
Maybe if you have a very poor fret job and soak it in litres of oil.. Almost every guitar made with an un lacquered fretboard is oiled and needs reoiling throughout its life.
+Crimson Custom Guitars No. The only "bad" thing that can happen to a fretboard over its life is that it may become dehydrated (i.e. looses moisture (water) content) in which case properly rehumidifying it is the only correct solution. Adding some form of external oil or "conditioner", will actually inhibit the wood's ability to reabsorb and release moisture when needed. Remember, oil and water don't mix, so don't put oil on something that needs to/will be able to gain/lose moisture over time. Better to store it in a properly humidified environment. It's no different than how you treat your timber stores. I mean, you don't go in the room and spray all of your stock down with oil every year, I hope.
Yeah.. Very informative.
Thank you.
This is amazing, my frets look better than when I got my guitar :)
this is the first time I've seen you play a guitar actually.
Is it good to have the adhesive of the tape touch the fretboard?
It won’t hurt the wood at all. If you have some residue left, just wipe it off with some fretboard cleaner.
Larry King I use a low tack painters tape and I stick it to my shirt a couple times to make it even less sticky. .
What kind of tissue is that? Looks like thick paper. Any brands?
kitchen roll
is 1000 grit sandpaper safe for this job?
You should start with 1500 grit , then, as a good guide, work your way through 2400, 3600, 8000 and finally 12000. The 1500 will even up the frets and give them a nice shine. As you go finer and finer, you start to seriously polish the frets getting them into perfect condition. Or - you could use www.crimsonguitars.com/collections/fretting/products/wooden-leather-strop and www.crimsonguitars.com/collections/fretting/products/fret-rubber-fret-polishing-abrasive
@@CrimsonCustomGuitars thank you so much dude! This is amazing
0:46 what kind of tape is that?
Brian * looks like frog tape to me - high quality decorators masking tape
mylkTV - Qualified fretted / non fretted repairer since 1991
Just IMHO, no offense meant, I don't think you don't need a knife, just fold the tape back on itself to make it narrower. You cut enough times you're bound to make a mistake, especially if you're a do-it-yourselfer. OOps!
Why do you despise wire wool?
It’s coarse and rough and irritating and it gets everywhere.
So I've had an idea for a little while now about making a top out of a bunch of layers of say 2-3 mm thick wood laminate in alternating wood types, then shaping for a "concentric circle" effect. Seems like it should look very cool...
Has anyone seen this anywhere and if so where so I may see?
gibson made some whacky rainbow sg at some point out of colored wood. zoot suit is what they called it. apart from me disliking sg's in general, i think it looks quite cool. although it would be much classier with just alternating woods instead of the full on rainbow looking thing gibson made.
Wow yeah the rainbow effect is a bit garish but I like the look. Thanks!
Why can't you use metal polish?
he did
Check my fretboard invention. I’m trying to polish the FretCrowns. Mine has 10 sets per guitar. Look at the pics.
Flitz is as good as anything out there..
check out the neck through hollow body guitar made by stu wilf. SAW Guitars. You Tube video, he does not say how it is made only that it takes about 9 months to produce it...Very Very unique....Cheers
I've found steel wool works well
Yes, it does work, but the pieces of it get into everything; including the pickups. It's much better to use 1000, 1500, and then 2000 grit sandpaper. And, then, after that, use a polishing compound to put the final shine on the frets.
Going from 1500 grit to autosol will NOT get out the scratches you've just put across the frets which will make bends less smooth and sound clicky . You should use the paper along the frets before the polishing stage . If you can find it use Micromesh paper that goes down to 12000 grit - but is expensive ' You can also use almost dry T Cut on a cloth if you have no metal polish . I have done this job on hundreds of guitars / banjos / mandolins and this video should be filed under " how not to "
Who the fuck are you?
Why so antagonististic? I've never said that my methods are the only, or even the best. If you really want to you can polish a fret until you fingers bleed and you've spent half your budget on polishing supplies, problem is within weeks atmospherics will always tarnish a very highly polished fret and even if you only go up to 1500 grit wet and dry and then use chrome polish there really is no discernable difference in feel.. No scratching, no clicking, and less effort and expense. I may not have been doing this as long as you but you can believe me I DON'T lie to my followers.
Michael Barnes Yep I was being a bit of an ass and picking faults - I just saw some errors in this vid - I was harsh and Ben seems the nicest self effacing guy - and for that I apologise
Crimson Custom Guitars Sorry for being flippant - and we have different skills .
You make guitars and I repair / set up everything from cheap ukuleles to £4000 double basses .
I was just taught fretwork by a top classical gtr maker who would bust my balls if I didn't end up working along the frets to remove all those cross scratches . I don't doubt your enthusiasm / integrity and wanting to share the knowledge - and crap - we're always learning - sometimes the hard way .( Note to self - If you mask off a fboard don't leave it sitting in the sun for days before trying to remove it - ouch)
Tim
Crimson, you always have very useful tips but i must disagree with you on this video. You should always sand parallel to the frets. You want to remove scratches from playing wear and leveling jobs, NOT create new scratches. Cheers!
I see what you're saying but the end result is the same, I polish the scratches from the paper out by the time I'm done.. If you sand along the length of each fret it takes a little longer to do the job but does mean that of you miss some scratches they have much less effect on the playing.. I should, and will, mention this method from now on as a valid option but in the end as long as you get every scratch the result should be the same.. perfection.
If ever there was a mismatch between voice and appearance.......no hate or anything, I love the videos, but damn, find me a better example.
Get a lot people coming in strictly for the hand jobs. ✊🏽🕹🧔🏽♂️ These days.
Umm
sounds terrible