Steve hi. Check the limbs in this video - th-cam.com/video/vcnLARZk-oY/w-d-xo.html They remind me of the grouse ladder Sitkas. That "old gurl" does run nice. Thanks for watching.
There are some ripping videos on the channel. So yes. It wastes a lot of wood. Also, it is also hard to do an "honest " test - as it is nearly impossible to get both "sides" of the bole are exactly the same structurally. This does painfully evedent on a 3 foot bar... And ripping requires a different chain setup to work properly. I'm using work chains fairly often as well. Thanks for watching.
That went well. Regards the 592 {as we know now} and it's bulk compared to the 500i I had the chance whilst over competing in Wales last summer to have a look at a 500i with all the add ons which that saw seems to attract i.e. full wrap, hd clutch cover and large dawgs along with a 572 in stock form and my 592 in stock form and it's not as big a difference as you might think. In real world "feel" I'm not talking about actual lbs on a scale but in the hand ready for duty it would surprise many as to how close they feel. The 592 can, for a big saw, be thrown around fairly easily and in fact only a couple of days ago had my 500i and 592 working in same patch and again not such a huge difference. Thanks for posting this Jack always a pleasure to see you and cousin G working
Thank you. I did try... Surely that was a good time for you! One thing that you forget, Dave my friend, your a brutish woods beast. Able to wreck saws at will, lol. Of course they all seem the same weight! I did check the "ready to go" weights. I went through the motions multiple times also. Of course it was on my less than ac-u-rat hand-me-down bathroom scales - they do, do comparisons fairly well though. The 5ooi is pretty consistently 16.8lbs in North American wrap attire. The 59?, because no one knew what the displacement was at that point, was 20 even most of the time. I did see 20.4 & 19.8 lbs. I checked it against several 395s. It (592) was one pound less mass every time. We do have a good time for sure. Top of the day to you & the Mrs. Thanks for stopping by.
Thank you. I did everything you can imagine. Like quish band change, port & polish. Maybe a few things "unthunk" as well. The more interesting processes I do are not share. Kind of along the lines of "What happens in Vegas stay in Vegas". Lol. Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 That figures, it seems like a totally different species to my 281. Somehow seems like a 100cc saw and a 50cc saw at the same time - magic!
Very impressive, your trees and "toads" ;-),and your saws too. comparing to Europe both on steroids. matches up pretty good. but why don't you cut your stumps down to the ground? we cut very close above ground, at least if it's flat. I kind of admire your habit to do as much as possible upright. walking on the stem to cut the limbs is forbidden here. if I had that large stems I would cut the stumps to save the wood of the falling trees. I have a small ms361 and I quite like it because of the weight. how did yours turn out? In the video you were not that happy with your work on it. I havn't seen any news about it, yet. have you found a way to get a sporty version?
Thank you. Stump height is based a multitude of considerations. I usually try to get the deck right at the transition to the root flair. That gives room for the bias cut to be above the dirt. The mills on the left coast want a flush butt. So even though you cut it low, by using a farmer's face, by the time the butt gets squared up you are just about back where the root flair starts. The closer you cut to the ground on an old, big, both, fir the greater the chance you will "make contact". With a rock that is. I hit something while gnawing on that big fir for Mr. Goldrush. The root flair makes a log hard to load - unless you spend a bunch of time pruning the horns off. This state is as big as some of the countries in Europe. There is a lot of timber in comparison. You must have small wood. No way to limb a 5/6 foot tree (properly) on the top with out getting up on it. And then there is the steep, gnarly yarder ground out West. You're not walking down the bottom side there. If only under the guise if safety. I've never owned a 362. They are all topend saws in stock form. I've built a number of them and they "come around nicely" once zipped. I do have a 400. Runs better than the one seen besting a 5ooi & running close to a 661. I do like that saw. Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 Thanks for your answer. My favorite saw is tiny, my country's too, trees are midsize, ok, tiny in comparison to west coast trees, but there are some 3'+ above the roots section. I am living about 150 miles from Stihl headquarters and it is absolutely impressing what you get out of the saws as we normally don't use longer bars than 24 " for saws in the midrange (70ccm class). Even a 660 rarely pulls a bar bigger than 30". We rather do a bore cut from the front. A lot to learn for me, thanks for that. How long will a "zipped" saw run on your experience?
@@harmonices_mundi6729 I've cut millions on most of the daily drivers. This of course is barring a weird mechanical failure. Like a piece of hard surface that came off a crank bearing after 3 weeks on my 266XP back in '89. I do use some of the best mix oil know to mankind. My chains are generally smooth and cut well. I keep the air movement happening. I.E., filter clean for the most part. If jetting is an operator option, I have then slightly rich. No guarantees on timelines when considering what the "orher" guy is doing. Lol. Thanks for watching.
Hello. The DESCRIPTION AREA has some additional info. Have a gander. Thanks for watching.
❤❤❤❤❤ hope u are well sir. Aint seen nothn from u in a while now.
Very cool!
Nazdar draku super akce jen tak dál 🐉🐉🐲🐲🌲🌲🌳🌳😉😉♥️♥️💪💪💪💪 lesu zdar
281 best saw ever made 💯
Look at that mess you made! Putting an undercut in the limb is a first for me. I like that 281 a lot.
Steve hi.
Check the limbs in this video -
th-cam.com/video/vcnLARZk-oY/w-d-xo.html
They remind me of the grouse ladder Sitkas.
That "old gurl" does run nice.
Thanks for watching.
Have ever considered standing your test logs on edge? Just wondering.
Lord strengthen and bless you, keeping you safe.....
There are some ripping videos on the channel. So yes.
It wastes a lot of wood. Also, it is also hard to do an "honest " test - as it is nearly impossible to get both "sides" of the bole are exactly the same structurally. This does painfully evedent on a 3 foot bar...
And ripping requires a different chain setup to work properly. I'm using work chains fairly often as well.
Thanks for watching.
That went well. Regards the 592 {as we know now} and it's bulk compared to the 500i I had the chance whilst over competing in Wales last summer to have a look at a 500i with all the add ons which that saw seems to attract i.e. full wrap, hd clutch cover and large dawgs along with a 572 in stock form and my 592 in stock form and it's not as big a difference as you might think. In real world "feel" I'm not talking about actual lbs on a scale but in the hand ready for duty it would surprise many as to how close they feel. The 592 can, for a big saw, be thrown around fairly easily and in fact only a couple of days ago had my 500i and 592 working in same patch and again not such a huge difference. Thanks for posting this Jack always a pleasure to see you and cousin G working
Thank you. I did try...
Surely that was a good time for you!
One thing that you forget, Dave my friend, your a brutish woods beast. Able to wreck saws at will, lol. Of course they all seem the same weight!
I did check the "ready to go" weights. I went through the motions multiple times also. Of course it was on my less than ac-u-rat hand-me-down bathroom scales - they do, do comparisons fairly well though.
The 5ooi is pretty consistently 16.8lbs in North American wrap attire. The 59?, because no one knew what the displacement was at that point, was 20 even most of the time. I did see 20.4 & 19.8 lbs. I checked it against several 395s. It (592) was one pound less mass every time.
We do have a good time for sure.
Top of the day to you & the Mrs.
Thanks for stopping by.
Beautiful stump. Cousin Gary going beast mode on the limbing today!!
I know you use motul 800 in your saws. I going to change oils. I was wondering is it a good oil. I love your videos
What kind of work did you do on that 281 exactly? It cuts great
Thank you.
I did everything you can imagine. Like quish band change, port & polish.
Maybe a few things "unthunk" as well. The more interesting processes I do are not share. Kind of along the lines of "What happens in Vegas stay in Vegas". Lol.
Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 That figures, it seems like a totally different species to my 281. Somehow seems like a 100cc saw and a 50cc saw at the same time - magic!
Very impressive, your trees and "toads" ;-),and your saws too. comparing to Europe both on steroids. matches up pretty good. but why don't you cut your stumps down to the ground? we cut very close above ground, at least if it's flat. I kind of admire your habit to do as much as possible upright. walking on the stem to cut the limbs is forbidden here. if I had that large stems I would cut the stumps to save the wood of the falling trees. I have a small ms361 and I quite like it because of the weight. how did yours turn out? In the video you were not that happy with your work on it. I havn't seen any news about it, yet. have you found a way to get a sporty version?
Thank you.
Stump height is based a multitude of considerations.
I usually try to get the deck right at the transition to the root flair. That gives room for the bias cut to be above the dirt.
The mills on the left coast want a flush butt. So even though you cut it low, by using a farmer's face, by the time the butt gets squared up you are just about back where the root flair starts.
The closer you cut to the ground on an old, big, both, fir the greater the chance you will "make contact". With a rock that is. I hit something while gnawing on that big fir for Mr. Goldrush.
The root flair makes a log hard to load - unless you spend a bunch of time pruning the horns off.
This state is as big as some of the countries in Europe. There is a lot of timber in comparison.
You must have small wood. No way to limb a 5/6 foot tree (properly) on the top with out getting up on it.
And then there is the steep, gnarly yarder ground out West. You're not walking down the bottom side there.
If only under the guise if safety.
I've never owned a 362. They are all topend saws in stock form. I've built a number of them and they "come around nicely" once zipped.
I do have a 400. Runs better than the one seen besting a 5ooi & running close to a 661. I do like that saw.
Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 Thanks for your answer. My favorite saw is tiny, my country's too, trees are midsize, ok, tiny in comparison to west coast trees, but there are some 3'+ above the roots section. I am living about 150 miles from Stihl headquarters and it is absolutely impressing what you get out of the saws as we normally don't use longer bars than 24 " for saws in the midrange (70ccm class). Even a 660 rarely pulls a bar bigger than 30". We rather do a bore cut from the front. A lot to learn for me, thanks for that. How long will a "zipped" saw run on your experience?
@@harmonices_mundi6729 I've cut millions on most of the daily drivers. This of course is barring a weird mechanical failure. Like a piece of hard surface that came off a crank bearing after 3 weeks on my 266XP back in '89.
I do use some of the best mix oil know to mankind. My chains are generally smooth and cut well.
I keep the air movement happening. I.E., filter clean for the most part.
If jetting is an operator option, I have then slightly rich.
No guarantees on timelines when considering what the "orher" guy is doing. Lol.
Thanks for watching.