I literally paused the video so I can buy my own D-tap to AC inverter. You have no idea how many times something like that could have saved me time and headaches, THANK YOU!
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Conrad beware, seems not that reliable based on some reviews. I was really into it but might end up with a big power bank that provides DC output and enough watts
Great info - I've been bitten by the sine wave issue in the past so I'm glad that inverter works for electronics. The Shark Fin is brilliant, def something I will add to the kit, once I can afford V-Mounts that is. The decision of which battery to invest in is driving me slightly insane. Thanks for the killer content as always!
just got astera bulbs, if i hadnt, id buy that ac inverter in a heartbeat, so many times the art department puts practicals in places where its near impossible to run cables without it being in shot. great tip, wish i had known about it sooner! maybe ill get one anyway for cases were nyx bulbs wont work (e14 fixture for example)
@@FKfilmphotography the inverter is 87% energy efficient. So devide the load of the light by 0.87. That will give you the total load on the battery to run a tube. Then check your battery specifications to see if it can do it. If not you could use two batteries on a shark fin.
Hi Andrew! Will the batteries deplete simultaneously through the shark fin? Or will 1 deplete a little earlier? Depends on the batteries you use I guess but just wondering if you can hot swap if you’re using the same batteries and then don’t want to interrupt the supply when a battery dies
@@plunkett_media I think a d-tap connection is only rated to 10a so it is not possible. If your light has a 48v DC input the Aputure power station is an affordable solution if you already have high capacity v-mounts. Otherwise a power station, which can also be used for more than just the light.
@@gaffergear thanks for your reply. The light is an iFootage Anglerfish SL1 320DN. I've only been able to use it where a power point is available. I stupidly assumed it would be like the Aputures and have the ability to use vmount batteries or any portable option at least. I don't currently have vmounts so will be an extra investment, saying that maybe it's smarter/cheaper to go with the versatile power station? Thanks again for your input.
just found it is 50-55 decibels from a review on B&H . it could be a bit risky if one were to carry this walkin around with a camera and mic " Great for wireless DMX and remote computing ByDerek Version | Voltage:U.S. Version | 110V I originally purchased this for a wireless DMX setup where I can power a Philips HUE Bridge while floating around with a Ratpac AKS system. Now I can go from set to set, a first floor setup to a fourth floor setup without having to unplug the HUE bridge every time. In our fast moving environment, I was able to control 16 Astera tubes and 16 HUE bulbs at the same time - then bring all the lights to another room too far from the original location and just plug them right back in while never having to power down the HUE Bridge. Whereas previously, I would have to disconnect the bridge, move it to the other room and wait for everything to sync up again. And it's all self contained in a single case - while obviously leaving plenty of room for the fan to operate. I've also used this to power a LitePanels Astra 6x at half power for around an hour with no issues, didn't check how much the battery drained. Now I'm using this to power my 16 MacBook Pro, but it won't work on just one 98Wh battery. You need a 150Wh battery or to use two 98Wh batteries with a sharkfin in order for it to not shut down. Always make sure you are using the correct wattage/amperage when using any device or it will shut down or overheat/shut down. The only issue I see being a problem is that the fan can get rather loud. It measures about 50-55 decibels from around 3 feet on my iPhone decibel meter (didn't have my real meter on me). This will absolutely be a problem if you are close to a set rolling on sound. Thankfully, everytime I'm using the HUE Bridge it's usually for a music video or a commercial where we aren't rolling sound. However, if you're using it to work remotely with a laptop and there's no power source - the fan can be pretty annoying sounding pitch around 800-832Hz (checked with a frequency generator - NERD) Anyways, I do love this thing despite the annoying fan and being careful with managing the power - I really would give it 4 stars for the fan but because there's a 1 star review I wanted to help beef it up so people try this thing and hopefully see better evolutions of it! "
This is great - thank you! Intrigued to learn that I could run my Dedo DLH4 off a battery - how powerful would the battery need to be for that to be possible? Stephen
The inverter is 87% efficient. So devide your wattage by 0.87. Then allow a bit more for the dedo transformer efficiency. I wouldn't try unless your battery can output 200w constant. Most camera batteries can only do 150w. Another option is to use two batteries on the shark-fin as that has a d-tap. (totally forgot to put that in the video)
I literally paused the video so I can buy my own D-tap to AC inverter. You have no idea how many times something like that could have saved me time and headaches, THANK YOU!
Conrad beware, seems not that reliable based on some reviews. I was really into it but might end up with a big power bank that provides DC output and enough watts
The AC inverter could be a lifesaver for documentary shoots in remote locations, I can think of countless ways it could save the day
Great info - I've been bitten by the sine wave issue in the past so I'm glad that inverter works for electronics. The Shark Fin is brilliant, def something I will add to the kit, once I can afford V-Mounts that is. The decision of which battery to invest in is driving me slightly insane. Thanks for the killer content as always!
Thanks Andrew.....👍👍
Incredibly useful info! Thank you, sir!
I really appreciate you sharing these tips!
just got astera bulbs, if i hadnt, id buy that ac inverter in a heartbeat, so many times the art department puts practicals in places where its near impossible to run cables without it being in shot. great tip, wish i had known about it sooner!
maybe ill get one anyway for cases were nyx bulbs wont work (e14 fixture for example)
Great info!
Could I then in theory use the vmount dtap AC adapter to power a quasar science tube?
If it's under 200w. I use this for my Nanguang tubes
@@gaffergear it's just those standard T8 tubes so must be under 200w! That will make a huge difference if they can be powered this way!!!
@@FKfilmphotography the inverter is 87% energy efficient. So devide the load of the light by 0.87. That will give you the total load on the battery to run a tube. Then check your battery specifications to see if it can do it. If not you could use two batteries on a shark fin.
Is there any option or alternative to power a 300w continuous light?
I was looking for this, I nearly was going to make my own
Hi Andrew! Will the batteries deplete simultaneously through the shark fin? Or will 1 deplete a little earlier? Depends on the batteries you use I guess but just wondering if you can hot swap if you’re using the same batteries and then don’t want to interrupt the supply when a battery dies
Yes can hot swap, and one battery always seems to flat a bit faster than the other.
Do you know of any D-tap to AC that would run a 300W light? Or is a power station a more suitable solution?
@@plunkett_media I think a d-tap connection is only rated to 10a so it is not possible.
If your light has a 48v DC input the Aputure power station is an affordable solution if you already have high capacity v-mounts.
Otherwise a power station, which can also be used for more than just the light.
@@gaffergear thanks for your reply. The light is an iFootage Anglerfish SL1 320DN. I've only been able to use it where a power point is available. I stupidly assumed it would be like the Aputures and have the ability to use vmount batteries or any portable option at least. I don't currently have vmounts so will be an extra investment, saying that maybe it's smarter/cheaper to go with the versatile power station? Thanks again for your input.
just found it is 50-55 decibels from a review on B&H . it could be a bit risky if one were to carry this walkin around with a camera and mic
"
Great for wireless DMX and remote computing
ByDerek
Version | Voltage:U.S. Version | 110V
I originally purchased this for a wireless DMX setup where I can power a Philips HUE Bridge while floating around with a Ratpac AKS system. Now I can go from set to set, a first floor setup to a fourth floor setup without having to unplug the HUE bridge every time.
In our fast moving environment, I was able to control 16 Astera tubes and 16 HUE bulbs at the same time - then bring all the lights to another room too far from the original location and just plug them right back in while never having to power down the HUE Bridge. Whereas previously, I would have to disconnect the bridge, move it to the other room and wait for everything to sync up again. And it's all self contained in a single case - while obviously leaving plenty of room for the fan to operate.
I've also used this to power a LitePanels Astra 6x at half power for around an hour with no issues, didn't check how much the battery drained.
Now I'm using this to power my 16 MacBook Pro, but it won't work on just one 98Wh battery. You need a 150Wh battery or to use two 98Wh batteries with a sharkfin in order for it to not shut down.
Always make sure you are using the correct wattage/amperage when using any device or it will shut down or overheat/shut down.
The only issue I see being a problem is that the fan can get rather loud. It measures about 50-55 decibels from around 3 feet on my iPhone decibel meter (didn't have my real meter on me). This will absolutely be a problem if you are close to a set rolling on sound. Thankfully, everytime I'm using the HUE Bridge it's usually for a music video or a commercial where we aren't rolling sound. However, if you're using it to work remotely with a laptop and there's no power source - the fan can be pretty annoying sounding pitch around 800-832Hz (checked with a frequency generator - NERD)
Anyways, I do love this thing despite the annoying fan and being careful with managing the power - I really would give it 4 stars for the fan but because there's a 1 star review I wanted to help beef it up so people try this thing and hopefully see better evolutions of it!
"
Perfect!
This is great - thank you! Intrigued to learn that I could run my Dedo DLH4 off a battery - how powerful would the battery need to be for that to be possible? Stephen
The inverter is 87% efficient. So devide your wattage by 0.87. Then allow a bit more for the dedo transformer efficiency.
I wouldn't try unless your battery can output 200w constant.
Most camera batteries can only do 150w. Another option is to use two batteries on the shark-fin as that has a d-tap. (totally forgot to put that in the video)
any update for this? could i use somthing like this for 500w molus?
Defiantly not, this doesn't deliver 500w.
Can I run a 500W video light on this?
@@CreativeCineCaptures not a chance
would be cool if the shark put out a higher volts for the new gen of leds a monitor (proper one!) or alexa
🙏🏾