How to abseil past a knot in the rope. Rock climbing problem-solving skills. Check out our Improvised rescue courses here in North Wales. www.climbingac...
Hey guys, you make great quality videos and it would be great to see more of them. Maybe some content about trad climbing if you’re struggling for ideas (placing nuts, cams and building belays etc).
Hi Sam, you have great teaching ability and I look forward to seeing more from Climbing Acadamy in the future. It's so nice listening to a British voice as well. Here you tackle a rarely seen topic and you do it very well. I would like you to cover rescue tecniques needed by a fallen climber on a multi-pitch route where the faller stops opposite unclimbable rock or in mid-air. I have never seen anything on this anywhere and yet it is a situation that should be practiced and resourced before embarking on serious multi-pitch climbs. I look forward to your views and, ultimately, your video.
Gordon thanks for taking the time to watch them! I agree that would be a really handy video. The technique for solving the fallen climber problem you mention is really for that climber to prusik up the climbing rope until you reach climbable ground again.. But it'd be a fun video to make anyway! OK its going on the list. Thanks.
Is this Lion Rock? Great venue to teach/learn, shame there's virtually no parking space! Great video. Another good reason to carry multiple prusiks. I have a beal jammy 22kN plus a 7mm cordlette prusik with 2 strands pulled, should be roughly equal (or greater) in strength to 6mm but wraps around the rope better and is easier to get it to grip. Andy K recommends a VT for this, something I'll have to experiment with, obviously in a safe location. And of course using the 22kN sewn one for life support carrying 100% load above the belay device.
It is indeed a little spot close to Lion Rock with a similar feel. I've never actually used 7mm cordlette so I should experiment with that. I'd be interested to see if it works ok on skinny ropes? What have you found? Yeah I also have a beal Jammy and love that reassuring 22kn tag! Thanks again for the comment. Appreciate ya!
@@sam_farns_climbing with 2 strands pulled out it wraps in a tight radius, works well with double 8mm half ropes as well as 10mm static rope. I have heard of people pulling a single strand from 6mm cord, that's where it came from but to keep both the strength and the bigger diameter (=bigger surface area contact) I opted for 7mm. I absolutely hate using normal 6mm which is a fight to rig and is all or nothing in use. Needs to be cut cold then sealed afterwards. 👍
It's not safe to climb a prusik into your leg loop, either the prusik or rappel device should be extend from your harness and the other should be kept close, but both should be attached to the tie in points/belay loop.
Forgive my ignorance as I'm new to rappelling, but why is it not safe? Nearly all of the information I've seen so far suggest this is the commonly taught placement for a backup. Strength wise it seems like it should be fine, though not as strong as the tie in/belay loop it should easily support your weight even though it only needs to supply braking force and not take your full weight. Can you share your take on it?
Hey I agree that the method of abseiling that we suggest switching to is not the absolute best abseiling/rappeling method. However, it is totally workable and most importantly in this case it is the simplest to switch over to when passing a knot. If you skip to this point th-cam.com/video/Ds3XGybZc28/w-d-xo.html in the video here you'll see our recommended standard set up. Happy climbing. Sam
I think the disadvantage that could be suggested of the rappeling methos we switch over to after passing the knot is that.... there isnt so much distance between the prusik and the abseil device. Its conceivable that the prusik would be released if it comes into contact with the abseil device as it rises up the rope as it begins to act as a break. Hope that makes some sense?!
prusik in leg loop is not totally safe if you don't have extension on rappel device, if you pass out for any reason your leg may lift up and prussik may fail by getting contact with the rappel device. Extension may give hard time to move out the first prusik, harder but safer in my opinion. I will try this for sure in my backyard and see...
This “rule” can be broken under certain circumstances. There’s a lot of dogma in climbing to keep jerry’s from getting killed but by the time you are doing real alpine or complex routes almost every “rule” you have been taught will be broken under the right context in order to increase security or deal with certain situations
dont like the prusik on leg loop to close to abseil devise risk of touching and slipping alway extend abseil devise with short sling to keep prusik safe
The whole series is brilliant, thanks.
Hey thanks a lot!
Hey guys, you make great quality videos and it would be great to see more of them. Maybe some content about trad climbing if you’re struggling for ideas (placing nuts, cams and building belays etc).
Just posted a video on trad. belay building for you! Check it out.
I would use a butterfly knot to isolate the damage instead of an overhand knot.
yeah that would work a treat. Nice one!
Hi Sam, you have great teaching ability and I look forward to seeing more from Climbing Acadamy in the future. It's so nice listening to a British voice as well. Here you tackle a rarely seen topic and you do it very well. I would like you to cover rescue tecniques needed by a fallen climber on a multi-pitch route where the faller stops opposite unclimbable rock or in mid-air. I have never seen anything on this anywhere and yet it is a situation that should be practiced and resourced before embarking on serious multi-pitch climbs. I look forward to your views and, ultimately, your video.
Gordon thanks for taking the time to watch them! I agree that would be a really handy video. The technique for solving the fallen climber problem you mention is really for that climber to prusik up the climbing rope until you reach climbable ground again.. But it'd be a fun video to make anyway! OK its going on the list. Thanks.
Is this Lion Rock? Great venue to teach/learn, shame there's virtually no parking space!
Great video. Another good reason to carry multiple prusiks. I have a beal jammy 22kN plus a 7mm cordlette prusik with 2 strands pulled, should be roughly equal (or greater) in strength to 6mm but wraps around the rope better and is easier to get it to grip. Andy K recommends a VT for this, something I'll have to experiment with, obviously in a safe location. And of course using the 22kN sewn one for life support carrying 100% load above the belay device.
It is indeed a little spot close to Lion Rock with a similar feel. I've never actually used 7mm cordlette so I should experiment with that. I'd be interested to see if it works ok on skinny ropes? What have you found? Yeah I also have a beal Jammy and love that reassuring 22kn tag! Thanks again for the comment. Appreciate ya!
@@sam_farns_climbing with 2 strands pulled out it wraps in a tight radius, works well with double 8mm half ropes as well as 10mm static rope. I have heard of people pulling a single strand from 6mm cord, that's where it came from but to keep both the strength and the bigger diameter (=bigger surface area contact) I opted for 7mm. I absolutely hate using normal 6mm which is a fight to rig and is all or nothing in use. Needs to be cut cold then sealed afterwards. 👍
Nice videos, the channel deserves to grow quickly
Hey thanks for the vote of confidence @ExpatMoe
New tool added to my box. Thank for the vid!
thanks for the comment. Good luck, safe climbing!
It's not safe to climb a prusik into your leg loop, either the prusik or rappel device should be extend from your harness and the other should be kept close, but both should be attached to the tie in points/belay loop.
Forgive my ignorance as I'm new to rappelling, but why is it not safe? Nearly all of the information I've seen so far suggest this is the commonly taught placement for a backup. Strength wise it seems like it should be fine, though not as strong as the tie in/belay loop it should easily support your weight even though it only needs to supply braking force and not take your full weight. Can you share your take on it?
Hey I agree that the method of abseiling that we suggest switching to is not the absolute best abseiling/rappeling method. However, it is totally workable and most importantly in this case it is the simplest to switch over to when passing a knot. If you skip to this point th-cam.com/video/Ds3XGybZc28/w-d-xo.html in the video here you'll see our recommended standard set up. Happy climbing. Sam
I think the disadvantage that could be suggested of the rappeling methos we switch over to after passing the knot is that.... there isnt so much distance between the prusik and the abseil device. Its conceivable that the prusik would be released if it comes into contact with the abseil device as it rises up the rope as it begins to act as a break. Hope that makes some sense?!
prusik in leg loop is not totally safe if you don't have extension on rappel device, if you pass out for any reason your leg may lift up and prussik may fail by getting contact with the rappel device. Extension may give hard time to move out the first prusik, harder but safer in my opinion. I will try this for sure in my backyard and see...
This “rule” can be broken under certain circumstances. There’s a lot of dogma in climbing to keep jerry’s from getting killed but by the time you are doing real alpine or complex routes almost every “rule” you have been taught will be broken under the right context in order to increase security or deal with certain situations
dont like the prusik on leg loop to close to abseil devise risk of touching and slipping
alway extend abseil devise with short sling to keep prusik safe
It’s way faster and safe enough