Step by Step instructions on how to properly Check Refrigerant Charge!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- This video shows how to check a refrigerant charge on an ac unit. This goes over how to use the gauge set, temperature sensor, saturation temperature, and actual temperature to find the actual refrigerant charge level. We then compare that to what is needed. Supervision is needed by a licensed HVACR Tech while performing tasks as Experience and Apprenticeship garners Wisdom and Safety.
Tools Used In The Video
Refrigerant hoses with valves amzn.to/2aBumVI
Blue Vapor Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2Ju7pan
Red Liquid Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2sSFmGH
SDMN6 Dual Digital Water Column Manometer with Pump: amzn.to/2UGclNv
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⚠️ Disclaimer:
Information in this video is intended for educational purposes only. Any work related to the topics in this video should be performed by licensed technicians or by apprentices under the supervision of licensed technicians. AC Service Tech LLC is not responsible for any possible damages or injuries caused by the use or misuse of any information provided.
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For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Here is the Link for the Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Manifold Gauge Set used in the videos- amzn.to/2aenwTq
Here is the Link for the Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Manifold Gauge Set used in the videos amzn.to/2aenwTq
Here is a link to Refrigerant hoses with valves used in the videos amzn.to/2aBumVI
Here is the Yellow Jacket Manifold Gauge Set including standard hoses- amzn.to/2vLVkV9
Here is the Yellow Jacket 4 Port Brute Manifold with Hoses- amzn.to/2BkuGIq
Here is the Fieldpiece SMAN360 Digital Manifold Set- amzn.to/2BdoaD4
Here is the Fieldpiece SMAN460 Digital Manifold Set- amzn.to/2nB4Fe6
Here is the Compact Ball Valve Attachment for the end of the Refrigerant Hose- amzn.to/2KUisW8
Here is the Quick Disconnect 90 degree attachment for the end of the refrigerant hose- amzn.to/2MMtVcg
Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ
Here is a link to the UEI DL389 Multimeter used in this video- amzn.to/2av8s3q
Here is a link to the Imperial 535-C Kwik Charge Vaporizer for Charging Refrigerant- amzn.to/2wFHtBW
Here is the link to the Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2wc1ME3
Here is a link to the Digital Refrigerant Scale used in the videos- amzn.to/2b9oXYl
Here is a link for RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn
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AC Service Tech LLC h
AC Service Tech LLC hi I want to get my epa ?do you have a full study guide for sale? im starting from the bottom some basic knowledge pls help
Hello I'm interested in purchasing your book. I'm an electrician by trade and want to venture in HVAcR can your book give me a good foundation to begin with?
Can a home owner do this and charge the unit without a license? Like can I buy the coolant and gear needed to do the job?
i'm a slow learner in this field so i always come back to these simple steps..
Same 👍
Even though I've been doing hvac for twenty years, I still enjoy every one of your instructional videos.
Thank you very much liverdelove! Awesome to hear!
Exactly
How do I properly check the charge on a refrigeration unit. In 2 ways
I have never seen this explained so well before and will admit I have always been a little confused but took it on faith that the numbers don't lie. Now I understand better what the numbers stand for.
That is great to hear!
This was broken down to a very easy to understand and informative tutorial. Great video
Thanks Jay R!
What happens when there is not sub cooling degree shown on tag yet there is a TXV present… packaged unit at a school.
wow... I understood your lesson better than my hvac professor. thanks
Thanks Francisco Munoz!
Same
Well explained without to much talk, straight to the point 👍
Thank you for your comments! Yeah at this point nothing in Metric and Celcius. I appreciate your comments!
Excellent presentation, clear and to the point. Thank you for posting it!
I am glad to Help! Thanks for the Comment!
If you have to charge the system/add refrigerant , don't you have to check for leaks first? Properly charged closed systems don't have low refrigerant. Awesome vdo.
Yes this is just a teaching video on how to add. Look up "acservicetech refrigerant leak" thanks!
Great presentation. I know nothing about AC units and I was able to follow. Great Job!!!
Too little knowledge is dangerous.
Another quality educational video. Thank you sir.
Glad you enjoyed it
I have an olllllld Coleman Presidential 2 that still has a 20° split but seems very weak
Mobile home... 😖
Anyway I put in mini splits that are so much better, but I still would like to get the original system in good shape as it definitely works and the gas furnace is a great backup and can run on a generator
I'm gonna follow your vids and see if I can get the thing tuned up, and I would imagine the risers need sealed and I bet the 2 trunk lines are really leaky somewhere
Thanks for sharing this video Sir.
So nice of you
Perfect video! Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Beautiful presentation and very simple to understand even if I'm a tech myself 👍
Im starting HVAC school my question is do I have to purchase a manifold gauge for every refrigerant I work with?
Great job again like always and great video
I appreciate that
Good good question hope you can answer it. Do you charge to do redo's. Example customer doesn't like the spot of the water heater or HVAC condenser. They agreed on the spot, but not the exact length from the wall. The customer was home. Do you charge them more after you agreed on the price of installation before you started the project ?
Do i find the proper saturated temperature on enthropy chart of the refrigerants to determine the if suction line is now fully vapor state?
So if you have a txv and your sub cooling is low should you check you superheat and adjust your txv before you add refrigerant thanks
Could you make a video of a full double zone in duct system and up sizing the supply and return air . Also adding a register on a package unit install???
Great series. Incredibly helpful.
dude you explained it so easily lol thank you so much...subcribed
Thanks Adrian!
Look how much fatter that lower pressure tubing is than that liquid line tube!! This is why I don’t understand heat pumps. How can you simply reverse things?? Doesn’t the low side/evaporator necessarily need greater physical dimensions than the high side?
Its just high pressure vapor going through that large line in heating mode. The liquid is going in the opposite direction during heatting mode, thanks!
Thanks for the education ! Excellent video gets straight to the point. I'll be watching the others too.
Thank you Douglas! Glad you enjoyed the video!
Wish I could get someone like you, if I call for an AC service. I am so skeptical of contractors in general
When your add freon both houses it needs to be connected? red & blue ?
As an armchair refrigeration guy (always have been fascinated but have never worked in the industry) I have always wondered why these units call for so much subcooling? It would seem to me that this would raise the saturation temperature (and thus pressure) in the condenser due to the reduced area available for condensation, thus materially increasing power consumption and compressor operating temperature. If reserve refrigerant is the goal, wouldn't a liquid receiver be a better way to achieve that?
Great observations! It is also trying to reduce the temp of the liquid before it gets to the metering device. That is actually why, thanks
Would the air in the lines affect the pressure reading? You didn't say you purged the lines at the beginning.
do you have a video of using superheat for non TXV systems with fixed metering? Thank you and great video!
Here is the superheat charging playlist for fixed metering devices. ---- th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojwGvhU1rseXQLJ-XBjBZMMk.html
Loving the videos man!🖒 My quesition is, because you needed to add more refrigerant, was there a leak somewhere in the system?
This is just a training unit where we recover refrigerant out and show how to add it back in and so forth, thanks Jay! here is a video on finding a leak,- th-cam.com/video/2Be_sG-HQTQ/w-d-xo.html
Ohhh ok. Thanks! acservicetech
you are good, i am a dummy, you get praise and respect.
It only takes time and you are showing initiative to learn more so all in time, thanks Mark!
There were some larger screw on hose connectors guess they are fast off so you don't loose much freon. Are those the yellow jacket quick couplers?
Yes they are referred to as quick disconnect or automatic low loss fittings but I have them linked at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech thanks!
Spot on. By far the best instructions for this craft of work
Thanks Paul!
So after finding out that it's only a 2 degree difference how would you translate that into how many LBS of refrigerant to add?
What to do if your AC has no info for sub-cooling temp info due to old unit and faded stickers?
what if it doesn’t have a TXV then what should be the sub cooling?
If there is no txv then use the total superheat procedure. Target Superheat is a floating number depending on indoor wb and outdor db. Look up "acservicetech superheat playlist" thanks
Great Videos! Thanks for sharing them.
Thanks Deke Sanders!
Excellent videos very much appreciated!!
Thanks Jorge!
I changed out this week two 5 ton trane units. They was brand new with evap coil match outdoor unit they had txvs for metering devices removed sensing bulb when brazing and put back on and insulated. When checking charge the data plate called for 8 degree subcool i keep adding refrgerant trying to get the target subcool but my line temp kept rising with the pressure i would only have two to three degree subcool but my superheat kept going down it got down to around 5 so i lost my superheat trying to get the targert subcool any thoughts. Thanks.
do you get some actual pressure drop in the system itself when you let some of the refridge into the hoeses and would you have to use the shortest hoeses possible then ?
and does any european device even use any of the subcooling stuff at all ?
thanks, always good tech information ...
Thanks Pei Broker!
That is LG 24,000 BTU. Discharge line pipe is iice build up. Then the Compressor getting hot after shut off.
Ya I was at a shit company where they told me to put it 20 degrees over temp outside. I'm now going to a company that's better thanks for the video
Yeah, that was that old ambient+20 which is not what should be used. Also it only is close on 10 seer but not actually precise, thanks
I have 2.5 ton Goodman Ac (R410a freon) low side is 80 psig and high side is 400 psig, if I add freon then it stops because of the high pressure. I have checked the filter which is not dirty. What are the possible reasons for this problem? Thanks
Without a temp probe ca n you tell if its working correct. That is how my apartment maintenance checks Only using the red and blue lines and sometimes only the blue line
You can't measure superheat or subcooling without temp probes. The tech may have been trying to target a certain pressure instead, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel I have been having issues with this system after the first year here. The system runs all the time. Two years ago they called a HVAC certified person to come check it and I heard them say the system was a SEER 8 and on it last leg. Since then my power bill has gone from $115 to $180+ during the warm months. I know the unit is over 20 yrs old and they wont replace it. They say if it cooling they cant do anything about it.
On your tool list now you have:
Yellow Jacket Gidds 505049 1/4" hoses with compact ball valves 60" (Packof 3).
A few months back you had Yellow Jacket 29985 Plus II 1/4" hoses with compact ball valves 60" (Packof 3).
Price is more now for the 29985 but I was wondering if there is a set that's better than the other and are both sets good for charging and evacuation? Getting ready to order a few things from your tool list.
Hey James, I just checked again but they are the same thing in reference to the hoses I use with the valves on the end. I use them for charging and for the pump down. I use the 3 appion valve core removal tools and the 3/8 hose with a 3/8" connection on one side and 1/4" connection on the other side. Then I just use a 2' or 3' 1/4" hose. The vacuum hoses do not have valve core depressors in the end. This is seen in the video "acservicetech full vacuum procedure", thanks James and any questions, just ask!
What gauge do I check on a Carrier with an acutrol metering device?
Thanks so much for this video, helped out a lot
Thanks Jeffrey!
you have to convert the pressure reading to temperature. use the PT chart
Yes in this case, the p/t chart is overlaid onto the gauges, thanks!
This dude is friggin awesome!
I am glad you enjoyed the video! There are presently 119 videos done in this way posted on the Channel! Thanks for your Comment!
Would you be willing to do a video on how to properly flush a system (line set and evaporator) for receiving a new condenser with a r-22 replacement refrigerant?
I would like to if I am doing a job for the right client. Also most systems I am going from r-22 to r410a and I rarely leave the existing coil and lineset. I find some unique way of running the lineset if it is not easy to run one. Thanks for letting me know what you would like to see!
Thanks for the reply.
I'm curious if you think it's a bad idea to reuse the existing evaporator/line set. I work for a local apartment management company and want to do what's best for all involved, but it seems they don't want to pay for anything to be replaced.
They're copper coils fitted with replaceable orfice evaporator restrictors, so I think it should work given the correct orfice for 410. What flush kit do you recommend?
Does Subbcolling work for R410 a and R22 or NU 22? Thanks
At about 1:45 in the video, you say to check the rating plate to determine the subcooling temperature drop. I have a Heil CA5530VKD2 condenser unit. The only plate on the exterior has all of the electrical specs, but no mention of subcooling. I just bought your book and am looking through it for more information. Well written book!
Is there another rating plate that I should be looking for?
data plate on inside of the panel for contactor and such?
generally the data plate for unit info is on the outside of that panel and only electrical schematic is on the inside.
If you don't see a sticker (most units have stickers), it could be that it actually has/had a metal plate that came off?
depending on age of unit the sticker wore off, or the plate came off.
Some units require specific subcooling and can range anywhere from, 10 degrees to 18
But as a kind of rule of thumb, if a data plate is not available, go with at least a 10 or 12 degree subcooling.
edit:
Also, honestly if you don't have the appropriate training or the epa 608 certification you should not to be working on an a/c system.
Messing with refrigerants can be dangerous and most importantly is very bad for the ozone.
If you are in an very cramped and poorly ventilated space the refrigerant will displace the oxygen and you will suffocate.
If you vent refrigerants in to the ozone, 1 atom of chlorine will destroy 100,000 molucules of ozone/oxygen.
Not to mention, if you are caught venting refrigerant, it is a $45k fine for you or your company.
@@PatrickMcNary I appreciate your warnings. Everything is being done per specs and regs. Safety first. The Heil condenser unit has a sticker on the outside. All the data on the sticker is electrical (amps, voltage, circuit breaker, etc) except "Outdoor Unit Shipping Charge R22 74 OZ." And, "Design Pressure (PSIG) HIGH 300 LOW 150". The compressor inside the unit is a Copeland ZR28KC-PFV-130, single phase 208-230V scroll compressor. It has specs listed Refrigerant Type: R-22, Ambient Temp 95F, Evaporating Temperature 45 F, and Liquid Temperature 115 F.
So you are saying that the condenser did it's job and brought the vapor to a liquid but just barely subcooled it... Only 2 degrees. Technically there is liquid going to the txv. Isn't that correct? It just hasn't been cooled enough. Why is adding more refrigeration the fix for this problem? Can you quickly explain the process within the condenser why adding more refrigerant creates more subcooled liquid?
How would I know + two degrees is a significantly low charge ?? Sorry I’m a newbee do I just suspect every txt should have plus or minus 5 degrees range for Checking the charge when I first get to a unit
Systems with a txv you would set the subcooling at whatever the rating plate says. If the rating plate is wore off then set it to 8-12 degrees of subcooling. I usually set it to 11 if there is no plate. If it has a piston then check what the target superheat should be. My best advise is to watch the "acservicetech subcooling playlist" and also the "acservicetech superheat playlist" thanks
Craig, how do check the subcooling if it's cold outside? Here, in Arizona, right now it's 55 degrees. From what I understand you can't accurately check the refrigerant if it's cold outside. Or is there some metric besides subcooling you use?
You have it correct. We cannot check the charge when the indoor and outdoor db temps are below 70 degrees. They must both be 70 or higher. Unfortunately some companies rush their pm's and do them too early to accurately check systems. On an emergency heat pump call, you could use a charging bag to restrict the outdoor unit's airflow to raise the outdoor unit's sat temp but this method should only be used on a system with a txv. However, subcooling will show a little less than it would on a higher temp day. We discuss this scenario and a lot of other methods in my book on the website at www.acservicetech.com thanks!
thank you!
Good video... thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
Thanks for the video ACSERVICETECH! Like I have said before am still new to the industry and wanted to ask. If the system has a TXV then you would be more into checking sub-cooling and if its a cap tube/piston you would be more on checking super heat? I just want to see If I understand this right. I work on a lot of appliances and don't get to work A/C stuff that much yet at the place I work. Thanks alot for your help.
This is true for comfort cooling systems. Refrigeration can be a little different. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the reply acservicetech. Sorry I didn't thank you sooner, I didn't get a chance to get on here until now LOL! I appreciate you answering my questions.
No problem, glad to help!
DIY ing a new ICP R-410A split system. for brazing my new vapor and liquid lines I have Sil-Fos rod. Question : can I use my Argon bottle (90% argon 10% co) instead of Nitrogen which I do not have? Also for line pressure testing? Give the good, bad, and ugly Please. Todd
Argon and carbon dioxide could be used . We use nitrogen because it is cheaper and safer for people in confined spaces compared to argon.
What happens if there is no subcooling information on the Condenser or online for the unit? How can you know what the correct subcooling should be?
Here is a video on that, thanks! th-cam.com/video/f-tbQKr5xNY/w-d-xo.html
thank you so much for alll your good info guys
Glad to help Julio!
Question: On my "Goodman" AC unit right above each hose schrader valve is a hexagonal nut. I've discovered that that's a cap with a Allen wrench socket underneath. What IS this? What's it FOR? What should it be set at? Screwed all the way in? Out? Middle somewhere (mine). Gas is present but my gauge set seems to be not working. Thanks in advance for you help.
If a system has a shrader valve and under the cap is a sunken allen hex hole then usually that is not moved again after installation unless for a pump down or removal. Typically this is back seated all the way up and does not have to be up tight at the end. Front seated would be shutting off the outdoor unit from the lineset and port. If this were in a midseat position this valve would restrict the refrigerant flow. For normal use of the ac unit, this valve would be all the way up but not tight if I am understanding correct, thanks
Thank you very much.
Great video thank you!!!
Thanks Jimmy!
Hello, great videos, thank you very much. I went to school and they taught me that refrigerant is charged according to the ambient temperature and the P/T chart, at that ambient temperature it is necessary to add 20 degrees more and the result then look in the P/T chart, so I did it but when I check as you say in the video gives me a subcooling of 20, what do you say about that ? It's 3 ton godman with TXV, thanks
Hey Wilfredo, a school taught you the ambient plus 20 rule? That is not what any school I know would be teaching. It is possible some teachers may have taught that a long time ago when they weren't as concerned about efficiency or just didn't understand the refrigeration cycle. Ambient plus 20 or 25 or 30 is just an observation that happens sometimes but subcooling is what happens in the outdoor unit in terms of energy transfer. Superheat is exactly what is happening in the evaporator coil in terms of heat absorption. We use superheat to check the charge for fixed orifices and subcooling to check charge for txv systems and we use both to troubleshoot. The rating pate would state the target subcoolin but if it is worn off or happens to not be there then you can use a target of 11 degrees subcooling, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel Thank you so much !!!
Can you make a video compressor replacement. Thanks
Edgar, thanks for letting me know what you would like to see!
Excellent upload. I have also a few videos on hvac on my channel. Regards.
Thanks LearningZone!
Good Vid.
Thank you very much!
I have always wondered what causes that white foam like substance when you disconnect your suction hose from the service valve on some ac systems.Do you know if this is a problem? Thanks love your videos
A lot of time it is white/yellowish. That would be not good as that is what the water mixing with the refrigerant oil looks like showing a moisture problem. When water mixes with refrigerant oil, it creates alcohol and acids. Thanks
I have a question !
Supose I have a system that works with 410A refrigerant and i like to convert it to R290, how much will the gauge show ( PSI or bar ) when then compressor is off ! I supose that you can refill the system even if the system is off ?
2. And how much must the system show if i refill it with R290 when it run s with R22 ? ( the system is off )
The temperature is 30C
You can weigh in liquid refrigerant into the liquid line with the system off after the system has been vacuumed down to 500 microns and has held. This way you are able to get the correct poundage in before pressure is exerted by the vapor.Pressure is exerted by the vapor and when the refrigerant is in saturated state and has a chance to reach an equilibrium. Then the pressure will depend on the average temperature of the unit that the refrigerant is in with the unit off so is not really a pressure you are looking for but a weight. Please be aware of whatever codes are in your area as I am not sure what the unit is for that you are referring to but there could be codes that would not support putting propane R290 into the unit as a refrigerant but you would have to check with that as well as any and all potential hazards which would come first.I would get some more experience under your belt before working with this and I will not advise on putting any other refrigerant other than the one that the manufacturer has on the rating plate. Thank you for your comment though!
Nice video 👌🏼
Thanks Joseph!
thanks.I enjoy for watch you
Glad you enjoyed it!
got a question, my central air has a rough time bringing the temperature down even when is not so hot (80° to 100°) we have it set at 75 and for some reason sometimes it won't reach 75° and the unit is working nonstop. my question is, is that normal?
That is not normal. Make sure the filter is clean and check for good airflow out of all the registers. Then you are looking for a 18-21 degree temp decrease between where the air is sucked in at (the return) and where it is blown out at (the supply). If not then there could be some sort of issue such as the outdoor compressor is not running or the refrigerant charge is off, etc. It is possible that the unit is undersized for the size of the house if it never used to bring the temp down but if it used to bring the temp down and now it doesn't it would be more likely the compressor not turning on, refrigerant charge or another reason, thanks
hello sir, i have a problem. r22 unit piston metering. outdoor temp=90 wet bulb temp=59 high-side temp =120 line temp = 103 supercool=17 low-side temp= 32 line temp= 65 super-heat= 33 normally the procedure would be to add refrigerant until the superheat comes down. however a couple of days all the refrigerant was removed and weighed in. i am afraid to add any refrigerant for the superheat. i thought maybe some type of blockage. didnt see any frosting around the piston and only a slight temp difference for the filter drier.
It sounds to me that you are low on refrigerant but have a lower seer rating or fins are not the greatest on the outdoor condenser. I would be hesitant about putting more refrigerant in if your superheat was say 7 or 9 degrees but since it is 33 then you should in order to see if you can lower it. You also need to add more refrigerant to get that vapor saturated temp up. If after adding refrigerant you notice that only the liquid line goes up then your statements above would be correct and it may be an obstruction. Who weighed the charge in? Was it a package unit or split system? Did you or they check the superheat after weighing it in to confirm that the charge is right? Thanks
The unit looks like an outside unit but the environment is looking lika as it would be inside. Im confused? And it's so quiet for a running compressor. Can you tell me if this ist inside or outside ? Where is the compressor? In this unit or in the other one?
This is in my shop as a training unit. The mic deadens background noise. Otherwise, it is the same as normal, thanks
OK, thank you. Now i understand.
Do you need to consider the wet bulb and dry bulb temps in order to charge a system by superheat or sub-cooling? I was led to believe that depending on the ambient conditions you will get different superheat and subcooling reading..I know TXV metering device systems work different compared to fix orfice and cap tube metering device systems because the TXV tries to keep a constant superheat as apposed to fixed metering devices that are more critical to charge...I'm a noob, please bare with me if I'm not making any sense..-Thanks #greatvideo
You are making great sense! You need wb and outdoor ambient to charge in superheat as the target will change. TXV Subcooling does not change and you are looking for the target on the rating plateCheck out the Superheat playlist and the Subcooling playlist on the Channel! Thanks for the Comment!
Thanks for the response...I'll be checking out those videos you suggested ...Question- does the boiling point of the refrigerant in the coil change as the ambient temps change?
It changes as the conditioned air temp rises or lowers. There is also something to be said about the temperature of the liquid line as it comes in from outside and how fast the temp can lower when the pressure lowers as the liquid goes through the metering device but mainly the inside conditioned air will affect the boiling point on the coil. This is why txv's are more efficient as they can allow more refrigerant through to maintain a certain superheat vs piston/orifice has a constant flow and capacity, therefore superheat changes. I hope this helps. Great Question!
Thanks bro, it sure does help a lot. I'm still in school and am trying to put all this Hvac stuff together. I've been watching all your videos and I have found them to be very informative. Thanks for taking the time to film and post them.#yourawesome
Thanks for your comments and I am glad to help you on your journey!
My unit has high super heat. Which means low on refrigerant. My question is .whay happens if i let it run low on refrigerant. Thanks.
The evaporator coil could freeze and liquid refrigerant could be sucked into the vapor compressor which would not be good for it. When the evap thaws, iit may melt out through non normal means such as out of the side of the unit and through the unit instead of inside the pan, thanks
love your vids man. just wish it was metric and celcius.
I agree with this
USA for the win 🇺🇸
acservicetech could you post a vid on how to back up refrigerant into the compressor if no recovery bottle is used?
Here is a video on a pump down, thanks- th-cam.com/video/FWlwTbjcTz8/w-d-xo.html
sir do you have a video of ac flusheng system step by step sir thank you
At this point, I do not, sorry!
when you calibrate your manifold where exactly is zero? The clear box above 0 is rather large. where should the needle be pointing when you zero this type of gauge?
When looking straight at the gauge, the needle should be in the direct middle and then you tap lightly on the gauge to verify.
Here is a video on your comment. Thanks for your question! Fixing Refrigerant Gauges? Explained and Adjusted! th-cam.com/video/A7fFlgJJ_DU/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for link. I did buy two vaporizer. Do you have training classes?. What steps needed to follow to become a certified AC tech?.
You can find EPA 608 universal cert at epatest.com and see who would proctor this in your area. You can then move on to other certs. Feel free to check out this video on breaking into the HVAC field-------th-cam.com/video/R7U_Kry1CBA-/w-d-xo.html------ I only have local training classes for adults in Cape May County NJ at the moment and as well I teach high school students, thanks! Any other questions just post and I will answer! Good luck in your endeavors!
Hey do you have get the Manifold gauges valves closed to check system pressures ? all that oppening a closing got me confused
I may have been doing the disconnect procedure and purging the air. You would keep the handles shut if you were just checking the charge before disconnecting, thanks
How about lg 24,000 btu r22. Suction line is 65 psi and the discharge line is 75-80 psi? What is the posible problem sir!? Thank you in advance! 🙂
Wow that is very low pressure on the high side. Are you sure you are measuring the actual liquid pressure on the high side. Isn't this a mini split? thanks!
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks Delaware Teacher!
😂😂😂 “or u can do it yourself “ lol
nice job!!!
I had a a/c tech come over to check on my upstairs a/c which isn't cooling very well. I notice the high side of the gauge rising as high as 400+ psi. When I asked the tech he said that it was normal for gas furnace unites. Now since he had added or what ever he did with the R-22. The outside condenser fan seems to be overheating and shuts off after a30-45 min. Then I go out side to the fan and press the RED reset button the fan turns on for a little then off again. Do you have any ideas off the top of your head on what the a/c tech had done to now cause the condenser fan to over heat and shut off?
Thanks for the Comment. The last time I saw 400 on the high side of R-22, the fins were partially off the tubing and the rest would flake if you touched it. It is either that or you have air or nitrogen in the system with the refrigerant. There is no such thing as normal for gas furnace units unless the furnace is on and heating while the ac unit is running. Are there bushes growing against the outdoor unit fins?
Thank you for getting back with me! I'm not sure what "fins" are. I have two unites one upstairs and one down. They are side by side and the upstairs unite, which is the unite having the issues, has bushes to the left of it. Also the condenser fan seems to be shutting down around 2-3 pm and the upstairs begins to heat up to 98 degrees. I get the fan to stay on and cool again around 7-8pm with no issues until the next day. Unless it's raining around 2-7pm or cloudy out the fan stays on and runs fine all day.The blower seems to be running fine. There is a lot of water coming from the blower condensation release drain outside behind the fan. I was overflowing and leaking water through the ceiling downstairs but I've cleared out the drain line and it also seems to be fine. I live in Orlando, FL. Thank you for you time on my issue.
So as long as both of my valves are shut, and the yellow line for charging isn't connected, I don't have to fear any explosions?
Hay It would not be good to have the valves on the unit shut. The valves on the gauge set should be shut. You would need to check to see if it is king valves or regular service valves. Proper training and 608 is needed before working on AC units. I think these are the videos that you are looking for. -- th-cam.com/video/Ydu0B3_Wkss/w-d-xo.html --- th-cam.com/video/7Z8WS7zG8Eo/w-d-xo.html ----- th-cam.com/video/eXkqOS_qywo/w-d-xo.html
Can't tell if refrigerant going in the condenser or coming out, which is which?
Check out any of these videos on the refrigeration cycle which will show you in detail what is happening. In ac mode, the liquid in the small comes out of the condenser coil and the vapor in the large line goes in to the compressor. Thanks!th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojwbAc7K7DsjuasaDVfJeGSe.html
Hello. To do this procedure the united must be off?
The unit must be on and running for at least five minutes.
Wierd question
Have you ever been adding r410 into a condenser and the gauges weren't rising?
Its happening to me
Please help thanks
You may be cooling the inside of the building quickly while charging and if that is the case the pressures decrease over time. The question would be if your superheat and subcooling are changing, thnaks
if your checking subcooling should you check superheat aswell?
You certainly should keep an eye on that to make sure that the txv is working properly as well as if the vapor sat temp is above 32 degrees, thanks
acservicetech no sir thank you!!
Where's the Icharge super wonder gear? Old school analog gauges?
Hey Jim, I teach with those and I want my students to think through the superheat and subcooling process as much as possible. I want them to think about the saturated state and these type are how most of my starting techs get in the field. After a while, they step up to ones such as those but for the students I teach, these are great, thanks
hi, the specification chart for the unit i bought says refrigerant precharged 25 ft , refrigerant type (R410A) 33.6 oz , aditional charge for each ft .161 oz and desing preasure 4.2/1.5 mp 550/340 PSIG the total length of the pipes is 35 ft how much refrigerant shoul i add or what woul be the apropiated measurment of refrigerant the unit should have?
the unit is a TGM vision inverter 18btu model mwvit18s/mrvit18as
You would charge an inverter type by weight. It sounds like you would just need the 10X.161 which equals 1.61 oz extra. This could be weighed in after you get to the 500 micron vacuum level and you zero the scale out after you purged the air out of the hoses. You could break the vacuum with this weight or charge this into the low side a little at a time while running. Thanks!
acservicetech the machine has been worked on by other guys, and i am not shure were i am at in terms of the refrigerant charge i cant weight it because i dont have that tool i have presure meter, how can i be certain that the charge is ok?
Hey Richard, well I know Mitsubishi techs have said that their inverter systems can be set to 0-5 degrees of superheat when their indoor wall units are on full ac emergency on when it is at least 65-70 or more degrees outside but I am not familiar with what TGM says. The accumulator can store excess refrigerant and the compressor can ramp up or down and that is why it is different than signle speed compressors. These things are not published because the real way that they want you to check the charge is by recovering the refrigerant testing for leaks, vacuum pumping the system down to 500 microns and weighing in what it says on the rating plate plus the extra ounces due to lineset length. This is due to the inverter compressor instead of single or two speed compressor. I hope that helps. Thanks
can I ask if freon for window type and split type are same?
They will be checked with the superheat process since they have a capillary tube metering device if you have a brazed in service port. Most do not have ports but you can check to see if you have an 18-21 degree temp difference between the return and supply after ten minutes of run time, thanks- superheat playlist- th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojwGvhU1rseXQLJ-XBjBZMMk.html
Question, can a good set of analog gauges used for hvac be used for automotive ac?
Would there be any harm in using them for either.
Thanks
Yes you could use them for both but you would need the auto adapters for the quick disconnect on the end. We do however try not to mix refrigerant oils such as poe and mineral oil in the hoses to avoid cross contamination, thanks. Here is a link amzn.to/2h4AknA
thanks, I was thinking along those lines. Keep up the great work!
so since the refrigerant is low, does that mean there is a leak?
During the initial installation, the refrigerant charge could be low and you have to charge it, thanks
is it normal for no heat coming off of the unit outside. my system keeps the house at 73 on a 94 day but runs all day or when it's over 80.
The system needs to reject heat outside so it does it by blowing it out of the top or side of the outdoor unit depending on the model. You would need to have the refrigerant charge level and operation checked by a tech, thanks!
May not have a problem with the AC unit as much as a cheap wall thermostat unit. In the old days there was a simple way to delay the cycle time (ON or OFF of the compressor). Now you see delay units added to the system usually set to 5 minutes or less - "Delay on Off". A better fix is to have a thermostat that has a two temperature setting: Low to stop and High to start with about 3 degrees between these two settings. So far I've not found such a modern unit. My old mercury and hot wire unit finally died, so I'm building my own replacement with the two set points built in.