What an awesome gift. Most people use these boring heads to slow. Faster Rpm and faster feed works better with carbide, all about that surface speed, just below the point of vibration from the boring head being of center to much . I am still saving for a decent mill but nearly there so am always in awe of hobbists with them.
Hi Michel, catching up with your videos after Easter. I love your humour and editing, top quality. Very generous gifts which you definitely deserve. I'm sure you'll find a way to make them fit your machine so many great tips on your comments here ..... maybe there's something on the other side of that newspaper that it was wrapped up in. Well done and good luck from Spain!!
Hi Rustinox - I have the same problem when fitting the co - axial indicator the shaft is probably 3/8 ( 0.375 ) the first suggestion is pick up a ER collet chuck and 10 - 9 collet with a mt 4 sleeve and draw bar second suggestion pick up a 3/8 weldon cutter holder with mt 4 sleeve these are the cutter holder's they use in USA parrellel driven by a grub screw you just have to use a bit of brass or copper between grub screw and shank I use a finger DTI and a Steffan gottswinter holder ( like the one on Steffans home page ) I enjoy your channel and like watching the set up's on the shaper and FP - 1 Thanks Laurie
For the gauge shaft, you could make a sleeve which would be a shrink fit, with the ID a couple thou smaller than the shaft and the outside OD at say 12 mm. It should be easy enough to get the ID and OD properly concentric on your lathe if you do in one setup. Then heat it up to 300 degrees C in the oven and shrink fit it onto the shaft. The shrink fit should make it secured nice and concentric to the shaft.
No need for shrink fits loctite retainer is more than adequate 648 allows a couple of thou,50micron ish, sloppy fit. Even concentricity is not a priority as the centre finder is the equivalent of a single point boring tool and will always define a circle, if square to the work.
It would be just as effective to make the sleeve bush a snug sliding fit and assemble it with loctite high strength retainer compound. Loctite give the best recommended fit tolerances for using retainer compound to best effect.
@@howardosborne8647 ... loctite requires a clearance, and with any clearance there is a chance of assembling it crooked (loss of concentricity). A shrink fit is just as easy but should eliminate concentricity issues.
Hi,Michel. That is a great gift from your subscriber in the Unated Stites😂. Just a little word of caution when using the Morse taper socket adaptor without any connection to the draw bar the socket can sometimes lose its hold on the taper shank and if that happens your boring head will drop out and possibly cause damage to the vise or the mill table. You would be far safer to make a proper arbor that will mount the boring head and allow the threaded draw bar to be screwed in at the top. On your centring indicator I would suggest the same as several others have that you make an adaptor sleeve to fit on the shank of the indicator and a suitable outside diameter to fit one of your milling machine collets...also I don't think a little eccentricity in the adaptor bush would make any problems with the accuracy of the concentricity readings taken with the indicator when mounted in the quill.
Nice boring head. A great addition to the workshop. I just measured my centre finder which is pretty new. That is also only 9.5 ish mm. Which i guess is the imperial 3/8". Although mine grips fine into my ER 25 collets with no wobble. Hope you get it sorted out. Regards. Steve.
Hi Michel ☺ a fantastic gift, and we'll traveled, I'm sure this will be useful to you on further projects, and your homemade cutter worked a treat. Thanks for another interesting video mate, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Very cool you have a boring head now, they are quite handy. With the right cutter and a Z stop you can even cut counterbores with them. I know you have the talent to make both of those tools 😁
I would get a slightly smaller collet and install it. Mount some sort of an insert cutter on the table pointing up. Then 🎉use X or Y to adjust the cutter to bore a new diameter in the collet as you raise the knee. Just a thought….
Hi Rusti, the shaft of the centre finder could be 3/8 inch, maybe you could get a collet that size, and I must say these are wonderful gifts you have been given, along with your sense of humour of course!, cheers, Dave
Hello Michel. I recently used my own boring head for the first time on a project. Wow, what a game changer. I loved it and now can’t wait to use it again. As for the coaxial indicator I am sure you will find an imperial collet to fit. Excellent video as always. Thank you. 👏👏👍😀
Nice viewer gifts Michel. That boring head will come in useful when you need to bore accurate holes for bearings etc. Beats a bi-metal hole saw hands down.
Ciao Michel, i have to say that you very lucky to received a so wonderful gift from a viewer! 😅 That centering instrument Is something that before or after i Will buy too, i like it!
If you don't trust your lathe, use the new boring head instead. Rotate the boring bar 180 degrees and use it like a lathe to make an adapter, one that will fit an existing collet. Then, without moving the adapter, drill and possibly ream a hole for the indicator to fit. As long as the X and or Y axis isn't moved, the centerlines will all match perfectly.
@@Rustinox I spent 5 years in machine shops when I was a very young man. I remember seeing a boring head much like yours used to turn down an outer diameter located at the end of a 2.5 foot long cast iron arm that could not swing in the lathes we had in the shop at the time. The way things turned out, maybe I should have stayed with being a machinist. But, you cannot rewind that clock. I do enjoy your videos very much. Good luck and be well.
Sorry Michel, no advice on going about resolving the 9.5mm collet issue, but love that the sender left out a boring bar, so we could see you made one. Too awesome that you never let things stop you from making a problem a resolve (@@)!. Thats one nice gift, for sure. Bear.
Why not make a split sleeve to fit over the shaft, tightening the collet will close it onto the shaft without damaging anything. I mainly have imperial collets and make split sleeves to be able to use metric end mills. A sleeve turned and bored in the same set up should come out perfectly true? Colin
I would imagine the coaxial indicator uses a 3/8" collet. What kind of collets does the mill take? Perhaps finding an imperial set or finding a blank collet and boring the proper hole size in it?
Probably already suggested, but you could make a split collar to say 12 or 13mm OD for the coaxial indicator....It would give you some more Z axis room.
Boring head, I certainly wished I had one of those more than once. Usually, I then realise it won't be worth much without a mill ;) If it hasn't been abused, you can usually chuck 9.5mm in a 9mm collet. Takes a bit more force to put it in, but won't harm the collet. Don't try a 10mm collet for 9.5mm though - it'll distort the collet and leave ugly marks on the part.
Easiest fix is to make a 3/8" (.375) to 12 , 14 or 16mm with a slit and use a metric collet. I don't think concentricity is an issue, as the spinning tool indexes off the spinning axis, so you are up and running if you don't want to wait for a 3/8" collet. Enjoyed the video, and a nice quick build on the boring tool, cheers!
I agree with you that the actual concentricity is not a concern as any eccentric deviation is read equally all around the feature being dialled in for concentricity relative to the spindle centre line.
The boring head will make much straighter and rounder holes than you can make otherwise. Also, it is t likely longer than a lot of bigger diameter reamers. That is a nice addition to the shop. The Satus United 😅 is crazy for using this stupid intermediary (imperial) to the metric system.
👍👍😎👍👍 - Rustinox, you suggested that you aren't quite sure what you're going to do with your new piece of equipment..... I assume you will be machining precision holes 🤣🤣😂😂🤣🤣
As @howardosborne8647 said, morse tapers are not for one sided loads, they can come out without a draw bar! your adapter is not connected to the draw bar! Cheers, Matthew
If you are concerned about wobble then make a split bush so it can clamp with the collet tightening. Being a single point indicator it won't matter it it mounts offcentre slightly.
A sleeve for the centering indicator would be the easy way. I know your bed has some wear so you don't trust it for accuracy. But for a short sleeve like this what about your cross slide? Set it up so it cuts a perfectly outside cylinder. Then drill and put in a small boring bar and do the inner hole. Do not move the bed at all between these two steps. Would that work an be accurate?
Hi Michel, there are some very kind and thoughtful people out there in TH-cam land. I really enjoy your videos and guess you will soon find many uses for that boring head. Cheers nobbysworkshop
@@Rustinox Good morning Michel, strange thing, your message arrived just as I was opening a small package from a subscriber. Gift of a nice tailstock tap and die holder. Someone has made a nice start to my week. Keep well and safe regards Nobby
Great that people think enough of you to send you those things, Rusti. You deserve it. Look, I might be wrong, but I don't think the accuracy of the sleeve is hyper critical. The coaxial indicator rotates on the spindles bearings, not it's shank. The shank is probably 3/8". I have one and it is very good. I just hold it in the chuck. On my machine I made a 4" riser block. I think that may be a disadvantage on your machine that a riser block is not really an option. Is it possible to lower the table relative to the vertical table baseplate? Could you do that if it is necessary to hold a tall workpiece? I like the boring tool you made. As always it's a pleasure to see what you have been up to.
The horizontal table can not be installed higher or lower on the vertical one. But, it's possible to install workpieces (or other accessoires) on the vertical one.
If your mill has an MT4 spindle, get an adaptor from MT4 to MT3 and get a 3/8 inch MT3 collet to hold it. MT4 collets dont seem to be widely available.
@@Rustinox If you can get some contact info to me, email and postal address, I'll get a collet and adaptor here in the UK and post it to you. You'd need to confirm what size collet you'd need, MT3 and MT2 are both readily available here. I couldn't find an email address for you in your videos else I'd have sent this message direct.
I Have center finder that is exactly like yours and I had same problem. My solution was to make the shorter needle probe. I was planning to make better solution but shorter needle works good and I am not using that center finder often enough. Try this and may be you will be happy with this solution. Best Regards.
Awesome video to go with an awesome gift, I'm yet to try out my Boring Head I made a while back, but I'm excited to be giving it a whirl in an upcoming project 👍
Michel I've just watched you video with interest. Nice viewer gift from you know where lol when you made your boring bar, presumably from the cut off part of the dovetail cutter, that was from an old high tensile steel bolt wasn't it? It would be nice to have seen a bit more of an explanation of the angles you used in cutting the pocket for the insert. If you make another boring bar in the future could you put a bit more information or even a stand alone video on making it? I think many of us would love to give it a try for ourselves. One thing, that HT bolt, what was the diameter of it? It looked to be around 14-16mm
Just a thought?? Find a collet that's smaller then you need and then use pins to lock the collet in to open position then sizes the hole to what you need in the United States we can buy collet to make special holes were we need them just a though? Try it if need a tip on it let me know?
I think it doesn't matter if the 2-axis indicator is off- center, since it's a relative measurement. The trick I always use is to imagine it to the extreme. So, what if the indicator is 1cm off center? I think it will still give a static needle if the spindle is centered on the bore you are measuring. But I could be wrong - really am not sure about it... Perhaps you could test this hypothesis.
Rusti, I have that same mt4 to mt2 adapter. Just how confident do you feel it won't vibrate loose and cause total destruction since there isn't a drawbar to secure it in place. I still haven't used mine in my deckel because of bad experiences in the past on my drill press, they would always fall out.
Haha, one more Rusty joking video. Never thought about that twist before., ustated n.... Long lasting peanuts! Tastes synthetic 9.5 mm == 3/8". Get that collet or check th 10 mm collet! I might manage!
@@Rustinox does that rig take some sort of crazy unobtainium shank? Seems like an er 32 or er 40 collet adapter would really be your friend. Spend a few Francs and be a high stepper.
Hi Michel, Thanks for the boring video....😁That boring head looks like the perfect size for your mill. What is your collet type? Is it something odd? I can keep my eyes open here. ATB...Your friend in the Ustatus Nights
What an awesome gift. Most people use these boring heads to slow. Faster Rpm and faster feed works better with carbide, all about that surface speed, just below the point of vibration from the boring head being of center to much . I am still saving for a decent mill but nearly there so am always in awe of hobbists with them.
One day you will have your mill. I'm sure.
Hi Michel, catching up with your videos after Easter. I love your humour and editing, top quality. Very generous gifts which you definitely deserve. I'm sure you'll find a way to make them fit your machine so many great tips on your comments here ..... maybe there's something on the other side of that newspaper that it was wrapped up in.
Well done and good luck from Spain!!
Thanks David. I will check that newspaper :)
Hi Rustinox - I have the same problem when fitting the co - axial indicator the shaft is probably 3/8 ( 0.375 ) the first suggestion is pick up a ER collet chuck and 10 - 9 collet with a mt 4 sleeve and draw bar
second suggestion pick up a 3/8 weldon cutter holder with mt 4 sleeve these are the cutter holder's they use in USA parrellel driven by a grub screw you just have to use a bit of brass or copper between grub screw and shank
I use a finger DTI and a Steffan gottswinter holder ( like the one on Steffans home page )
I enjoy your channel and like watching the set up's on the shaper and FP - 1
Thanks
Laurie
Thanks for your input' Laurie. I think I found a solution.
For the gauge shaft, you could make a sleeve which would be a shrink fit, with the ID a couple thou smaller than the shaft and the outside OD at say 12 mm.
It should be easy enough to get the ID and OD properly concentric on your lathe if you do in one setup.
Then heat it up to 300 degrees C in the oven and shrink fit it onto the shaft. The shrink fit should make it secured nice and concentric to the shaft.
No need for shrink fits loctite retainer is more than adequate 648 allows a couple of thou,50micron ish, sloppy fit. Even concentricity is not a priority as the centre finder is the equivalent of a single point boring tool and will always define a circle, if square to the work.
It would be just as effective to make the sleeve bush a snug sliding fit and assemble it with loctite high strength retainer compound. Loctite give the best recommended fit tolerances for using retainer compound to best effect.
@@howardosborne8647 ... loctite requires a clearance, and with any clearance there is a chance of assembling it crooked (loss of concentricity).
A shrink fit is just as easy but should eliminate concentricity issues.
That could be a good idea. Thanks.
@@wizrom3046 concentricity is not an issue as it rotates about the quill axis and it is that which defines the circle.
I thought I was the only one that reads the packing newsprint. It's the closest thing I can get to a message in a bottle.
Checking and announcing the cost of jam also
@@ernestwilliams3112 I have to know if my local grocery store is price gouging me.
I had the same thought. Curiosity is a great thing. Cheers to you.
Yup. Never know, might have already won $100000
Jus to see if there is any good news :)
Hi Rusti, smashing gift which I am sure you will find very useful. Great boring bar build by the way, so simple but very sturdy. Cheers, Jon
It's indeed a very nice gift. Thanks Jon.
Hi,Michel. That is a great gift from your subscriber in the Unated Stites😂. Just a little word of caution when using the Morse taper socket adaptor without any connection to the draw bar the socket can sometimes lose its hold on the taper shank and if that happens your boring head will drop out and possibly cause damage to the vise or the mill table. You would be far safer to make a proper arbor that will mount the boring head and allow the threaded draw bar to be screwed in at the top.
On your centring indicator I would suggest the same as several others have that you make an adaptor sleeve to fit on the shank of the indicator and a suitable outside diameter to fit one of your milling machine collets...also I don't think a little eccentricity in the adaptor bush would make any problems with the accuracy of the concentricity readings taken with the indicator when mounted in the quill.
You're right about the taper. Something to think about.
Nice boring head. A great addition to the workshop. I just measured my centre finder which is pretty new. That is also only 9.5 ish mm. Which i guess is the imperial 3/8". Although mine grips fine into my ER 25 collets with no wobble. Hope you get it sorted out.
Regards.
Steve.
Thanks Steve.
Hi Michel ☺ a fantastic gift, and we'll traveled, I'm sure this will be useful to you on further projects, and your homemade cutter worked a treat. Thanks for another interesting video mate, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Thanks stuart.
Very cool you have a boring head now, they are quite handy. With the right cutter and a Z stop you can even cut counterbores with them. I know you have the talent to make both of those tools 😁
Thanks Everett. It's indeed very handy to have.
I would get a slightly smaller collet and install it. Mount some sort of an insert cutter on the table pointing up. Then 🎉use X or Y to adjust the cutter to bore a new diameter in the collet as you raise the knee. Just a thought….
It must indeed be possible.
Hi Rusti, the shaft of the centre finder could be 3/8 inch, maybe you could get a collet that size, and I must say these are wonderful gifts you have been given, along with your sense of humour of course!, cheers, Dave
These are specific collets for Deckel. Very expensive...
@@Rustinox ok, understood👍
@@Rustinox why not use 0.25mm shim stock between the shaft of the indicator and a 10mm collet?
@@williamsworkshopuk Good idea. I didn't think of that.
Hello Michel. I recently used my own boring head for the first time on a project. Wow, what a game changer. I loved it and now can’t wait to use it again. As for the coaxial indicator I am sure you will find an imperial collet to fit. Excellent video as always. Thank you. 👏👏👍😀
Thanks Andrew. Have fun with it.
Great USA viewer gift Rustinox. You could bore a stub arbor on your mill. I'd look for a 3/8 inch bore to MT 4 or 3 adapter. Cheers Tony
Nice. These are specific collets for Deckel.
G’day Rustinox, that’s a lovely gift 🎁 you received in the mail. Lucky you mate. Cheers 🍻
Thanks Aaron. Indeed, lucky me :)
Hello from Ireland. Enjoy your videos. Your Deckel spindle should be MT4. The later version machine has INT40 taper.
I didn't know that. Thanks for the info.
Im going to be calling it the Ustatus Nights from now on; got me a good laugh from that one 😂
Lol. Thanks.
Nice viewer gifts Michel. That boring head will come in useful when you need to bore accurate holes for bearings etc. Beats a bi-metal hole saw hands down.
It's indeed a very nice tool. Thanks.
Your videos are a gift to viewers too, thanks Rusti. :)
Thanks Raymond.
Ciao Michel, i have to say that you very lucky to received a so wonderful gift from a viewer! 😅 That centering instrument Is something that before or after i Will buy too, i like it!
You're absolutely right.
If you don't trust your lathe, use the new boring head instead. Rotate the boring bar 180 degrees and use it like a lathe to make an adapter, one that will fit an existing collet. Then, without moving the adapter, drill and possibly ream a hole for the indicator to fit. As long as the X and or Y axis isn't moved, the centerlines will all match perfectly.
That could work.
@@Rustinox I spent 5 years in machine shops when I was a very young man. I remember seeing a boring head much like yours used to turn down an outer diameter located at the end of a 2.5 foot long cast iron arm that could not swing in the lathes we had in the shop at the time. The way things turned out, maybe I should have stayed with being a machinist. But, you cannot rewind that clock. I do enjoy your videos very much. Good luck and be well.
Sorry Michel, no advice on going about resolving the 9.5mm collet issue, but love that the sender left out a boring bar, so we could see you made one. Too awesome that you never let things stop you from making a problem a resolve (@@)!. Thats one nice gift, for sure. Bear.
Thanks Bear. Making a boring bar is not really a challenge :)
You make things look so simple, that I dream about in my sleep (@@)! your the man, and admire you friend!
Lucky you Michel. Nice gift from states united.
I'm spoiled :)
A nice gift for you. Happy Easter!
Thanks.
I'd love to see you make a collet! Shouldn't be impossible...
One day... maybe :)
Why not make a split sleeve to fit over the shaft, tightening the collet will close it onto the shaft without damaging anything. I mainly have imperial collets and make split sleeves to be able to use metric end mills.
A sleeve turned and bored in the same set up should come out perfectly true?
Colin
You're right. That could work.
I would imagine the coaxial indicator uses a 3/8" collet. What kind of collets does the mill take? Perhaps finding an imperial set or finding a blank collet and boring the proper hole size in it?
These are specific collets for Deckel. Very expensive...
hiya Rusti, use an old drill shank, cut the flutes off , drill and ream the end 9.5 and put a grub screw in to hold it.
That could work.
Michel, You are very welcome! As always a witty and entertaining video; you always have great content.
Thank you very much.
Probably already suggested, but you could make a split collar to say 12 or 13mm OD for the coaxial indicator....It would give you some more Z axis room.
That could indeed be a solution.
Boring head, I certainly wished I had one of those more than once.
Usually, I then realise it won't be worth much without a mill ;)
If it hasn't been abused, you can usually chuck 9.5mm in a 9mm collet.
Takes a bit more force to put it in, but won't harm the collet.
Don't try a 10mm collet for 9.5mm though - it'll distort the collet and leave ugly marks on the part.
I will give it a try.
Easiest fix is to make a 3/8" (.375) to 12 , 14 or 16mm with a slit and use a metric collet. I don't think concentricity is an issue, as the spinning tool indexes off the spinning axis, so you are up and running if you don't want to wait for a 3/8" collet. Enjoyed the video, and a nice quick build on the boring tool, cheers!
I agree with you that the actual concentricity is not a concern as any eccentric deviation is read equally all around the feature being dialled in for concentricity relative to the spindle centre line.
I was more or less thinking the same. Thanks Howie.
Just fund this channel and i realy like your content. Good tips and good knowledge. Altso you have a good moral compass. Cheers from Norway ✌️
Thank you very much.
The boring head will make much straighter and rounder holes than you can make otherwise. Also, it is t likely longer than a lot of bigger diameter reamers. That is a nice addition to the shop. The Satus United 😅 is crazy for using this stupid intermediary (imperial) to the metric system.
Thanks . It's indeed a nice tool.
👍👍😎👍👍 - Rustinox, you suggested that you aren't quite sure what you're going to do with your new piece of equipment..... I assume you will be machining precision holes 🤣🤣😂😂🤣🤣
Seems lika a good start.
As @howardosborne8647 said, morse tapers are not for one sided loads, they can come out without a draw bar! your adapter is not connected to the draw bar! Cheers, Matthew
Thanks. That makes perfect sense.
If you are concerned about wobble then make a split bush so it can clamp with the collet tightening. Being a single point indicator it won't matter it it mounts offcentre slightly.
You're right. That could work.
A sleeve for the centering indicator would be the easy way. I know your bed has some wear so you don't trust it for accuracy. But for a short sleeve like this what about your cross slide? Set it up so it cuts a perfectly outside cylinder. Then drill and put in a small boring bar and do the inner hole. Do not move the bed at all between these two steps. Would that work an be accurate?
That's maybe an idea. Thanks.
États-Unis !😄
Your Coaxial indicator I think needs a 3/8" collet if it exists (9.53mm). I think you have 5C collets ?
These are specific collets for Deckel.
Hi Michel, there are some very kind and thoughtful people out there in TH-cam land. I really enjoy your videos and guess you will soon find many uses for that boring head. Cheers nobbysworkshop
You're right. There are a lot of fine people here. Thanks.
@@Rustinox Good morning Michel, strange thing, your message arrived just as I was opening a small package from a subscriber. Gift of a nice tailstock tap and die holder. Someone has made a nice start to my week. Keep well and safe regards Nobby
Great that people think enough of you to send you those things, Rusti. You deserve it. Look, I might be wrong, but I don't think the accuracy of the sleeve is hyper critical. The coaxial indicator rotates on the spindles bearings, not it's shank. The shank is probably 3/8". I have one and it is very good. I just hold it in the chuck. On my machine I made a 4" riser block. I think that may be a disadvantage on your machine that a riser block is not really an option. Is it possible to lower the table relative to the vertical table baseplate? Could you do that if it is necessary to hold a tall workpiece? I like the boring tool you made. As always it's a pleasure to see what you have been up to.
The horizontal table can not be installed higher or lower on the vertical one. But, it's possible to install workpieces (or other accessoires) on the vertical one.
A very nice gift that will come in very handy. Gilles
I think so too.
It's the Estados Unidos de America!
Where we celebrate cuatro de Julio
Lol :)
If your mill has an MT4 spindle, get an adaptor from MT4 to MT3 and get a 3/8 inch MT3 collet to hold it. MT4 collets dont seem to be widely available.
The problem is to find a 3/8 collet.
@@Rustinox If you can get some contact info to me, email and postal address, I'll get a collet and adaptor here in the UK and post it to you. You'd need to confirm what size collet you'd need, MT3 and MT2 are both readily available here. I couldn't find an email address for you in your videos else I'd have sent this message direct.
I Have center finder that is exactly like yours and I had same problem. My solution was to make the shorter needle probe. I was planning to make better solution but shorter needle works good and I am not using that center finder often enough. Try this and may be you will be happy with this solution. Best Regards.
Good idea. Thanks for the tip.
Make a sleeve with a slit so that it will adapt when compressed by the collet.
That could work.
Awesome video to go with an awesome gift, I'm yet to try out my Boring Head I made a while back, but I'm excited to be giving it a whirl in an upcoming project 👍
Go for it!
You lucky man, to get that. Must have cost him a packet to post. Cheers
Lol. I'm spoiled :)
Michel I've just watched you video with interest. Nice viewer gift from you know where lol when you made your boring bar, presumably from the cut off part of the dovetail cutter, that was from an old high tensile steel bolt wasn't it? It would be nice to have seen a bit more of an explanation of the angles you used in cutting the pocket for the insert. If you make another boring bar in the future could you put a bit more information or even a stand alone video on making it? I think many of us would love to give it a try for ourselves. One thing, that HT bolt, what was the diameter of it? It looked to be around 14-16mm
Maybe I will do just that one day. Thanks for your input.
Ustated Nites shank size!
I was thinking... you have viewers who like you very much. That's good. That's good.
Well, I think so too :)
Hello, blank collects are available to bore to size! Arceuro trade uk.
Interesting. Thanks for the tip.
Nice gift . 👍👍👍
I think so too.
Just a thought?? Find a collet that's smaller then you need and then use pins to lock the collet in to open position then sizes the hole to what you need in the United States we can buy collet to make special holes were we need them just a though? Try it if need a tip on it let me know?
That could also be a solution. Thanks.
.25mm shim stock should be suitable for adapting it to 10mm.
That could work.
I think it doesn't matter if the 2-axis indicator is off- center, since it's a relative measurement. The trick I always use is to imagine it to the extreme. So, what if the indicator is 1cm off center? I think it will still give a static needle if the spindle is centered on the bore you are measuring.
But I could be wrong - really am not sure about it...
Perhaps you could test this hypothesis.
It makes perfect sense. Thanks.
What a fantastic addition
I think so too.
G'day rusti i have a boring head as well and although no expert ,, they are a good thing . enjoy your vids cheers😉
I also think this will be very handy. Thanks.
Super awesome!!
Thanks.
Hello Rusti, what kind of collet for the Deckel you use?
I think these are U2-collets.
Nice present Michel 😊😊
Absolutely.
Hello get a .375 =3/8” collet = to 9.5 mm
These are specific collets for Deckel. Very expensive...
Rusti, I have that same mt4 to mt2 adapter. Just how confident do you feel it won't vibrate loose and cause total destruction since there isn't a drawbar to secure it in place. I still haven't used mine in my deckel because of bad experiences in the past on my drill press, they would always fall out.
You're right. Other commentors pointed that out too.
Can't find a 3/8" collet to use your dial-thingy ?
These are specific collets for Deckel. Very expensive...
Haha, one more Rusty joking video. Never thought about that twist before., ustated n....
Long lasting peanuts! Tastes synthetic
9.5 mm == 3/8". Get that collet or check th 10 mm collet! I might manage!
I have to admid that I stole this little joke from someone else... :)
@@Rustinox I did the same on the yearly meting in the veteran railroad club. I think the creators of the jokes only appreciates it.....
9.5mm? That's so strange that it must be 3/8".
I suppose it is.
@@Rustinox does that rig take some sort of crazy unobtainium shank? Seems like an er 32 or er 40 collet adapter would really be your friend. Spend a few Francs and be a high stepper.
Good job mate 👍
Thanks.
Hi Michel, Thanks for the boring video....😁That boring head looks like the perfect size for your mill. What is your collet type? Is it something odd? I can keep my eyes open here.
ATB...Your friend in the Ustatus Nights
These are specific collets for Deckel. Very expensive...
good video rustinox
Thanks.
Isnt that shank a 3/8"?
Yeah 3/8 would be 9.525 mm.
It probably is.
I saw someone nearby selling 9.5mm deckel collet. I'll grab it and send it to you, if you don't have any solution yet.
Thank you very much, but wait a moment before buiyng. There should be one on its way to me.
@@Rustinox All good, I also have an FP1, worse case I'll keep it :D
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
atb
kev uk
Thanks Kev.
Use a 3/8 collet
These are specific collets for Deckel. Very expensive...
U2 spantang of 355e spantang
Dat wist ik niet. Dankjewel voor de info.
By a 9mm collection and bore it out .
Kit from Down Under
These are specific collets for Deckel. Very expensive...