To deal with your French cleat issue, try ripping your 2x4 on a 45 degree angle instead of using a square notch. This is more forgiving when the tree is a little crooked.
Hello Joseph great video. What I use for traps is old hive boxes I buy from a commercial beekeeper. They are his culls and I get them for $1 each because he is just going to burn them. I cut one in half and nail it to the bottom of a full one. I then nail a piece of plywood on for a bottom, put 2 or 3 frames with old combs in and 7 foundationless frames. I close it up with another hunk of plywood screwed on top for easy removal. For an entrance I just drill a 1" hole in the end somewhere and put a nail in it to keep the birds out. The boxes are almost black inside with propolis etc. giving them a real hive smell. I don't even use a bait anymore because I haven't needed to, but if you want it would probably improve your chances. I live on the prairies of Alberta so there is not much to hang them on, usually I screw them to the top of a fence post facing east away from prevailing winds. I have one trap in the floor of a neighbor's pump house. I made a removable piece of floor and built 10 frames in between the joists. That trap even with the entrance being 5" above ground level has given me 1 or 2 swarms each year for 3 years. I just go in and remove the frames of bees and put them into a hive.
@@Vbluevital Commercial hive boxes get pretty beat up faster than those of a hobbyist so they just replace them after a certain amount of wear. That's cheaper than making repairs. Most hive problems like possible diseases can mostly be covered with a propane torch giving the hive a good scorch. Also, most hobbyists are used to either making repairs and a coat of paint as needed or letting it go till time to trash the old hive. At $1 per hive box many beekeepers would jump on that deal.
Great video! Very informative. I've been beekeeping for 3 years but have been unsuccessful in catching a swarm. Perhaps now I'll be more successful. Thanks for sharing your experience.
I'm very impressed with your methods and thoughts. 2 suggestions from an old school teacher. 1. Use a 2 x 6 for the tree side cleat to give a larger area to attach to the tree. 2. Use a torpedo level that will fit in your pocket. (It will not hurt near as bad when it falls off on your head. LOL)
Great information! I have been riding the struggle bus trying to catch swarms. My assumptions for why I have been having problems match your recommendations.
Your trap system is amazing , in June 2019 two weeks a part caught two swarms , one six frames and second 23lb , thanks for sharing , regards from Ontario
Great ideas on the inner covers and the French cleats. I'll be using these on my future traps. I couldn't agree more about Swarm Commander. My son and I used it last week to get a swarm to march in to one of our Nucs, including the queen. No queen cage needed!
On your French cleats, you might try splitting a two by four at a 45-degree angle down the middle instead of taking out one of the quadrants. This also makes for a stronger piece of wood too due to the quadrant alleviation methods might shear or split off with weather exposure and wood drying out.
I am just setting up my first hive this spring. My bees are due to arrive the 2nd week in May. I got the hive and assembled it last summer and have been studying over the winter in hopes of being a successful beekeeper. I really didn't know much about swarm traps but came across your video and wow! You really take a lot of care and precision in building and setting these up. Your swarm traps look sturdier than my house. Great work and you sure seem to have a lot of knowledge. I'm learning something new everyday but it sure would be nice to have an expert close by to chat with. Are you aware of any good internet groups (even FB) that you would recommend for a newbie. Actually I'm an old lady but this will be my first hive. My grandpa and a great uncle had bees and I used to love it when they would give me a piece of honeycomb. I just want healthy bees and am not interested in selling honey or going 'big'. Thanks for the great information.
Just set up my 1st swarm trap using the French cleat method and using Swarm Commander gel. The trap is made out of a large super with 6 frames of drawn comb and lots of propylis for natural appeal. Wish me luck, and keep those vids coming!
Most of the internal cavity should be empty space for best results. Old comb is a good lure but the bees are looking for space for all their population. They come ready to make wax so they don't mind drawing new comb. So, old empty frames or with starter strips are better than a box with more than one or two frames of drawn comb.
Came home one day with a swarm in my front yard. Rolled up the road and there were cop cars everywhere and a random pickup truck. Swarm was in a branch that was over the road. Cops called a local beekeeper to come get it. I'll be getting swarm traps once I start beekeeping for sure!
Thank you for video! Very informational. I lost seven hives this year and really want to catch a swarm that is local and maybe some of my old bees. I had a problem with wax moth and feel that they just left
Wow! Lots of information here. I've made some 7 frame boxes but made them to set on two 2 x 4's on the stand. My honest mistake with them is that I put wire mesh where they set on the 2 x 4's, thinking they need a little ventilation. I may re-vamp them this winter. Oh on mine because they have screened sections on the bottom, made a metal flip metal to cover the entrance for easy moving. And instead of the inch and a half circular hole I made 4 one-half inch drill holes close together. Because I did not set them out last year I ended up using them for the next size up from a nuc before a 10 frame hive. They smell like home now. We will see.
When I worked at a waste water plant I lost count on how many swarms established in just about anywhere. The one place that seemed to be the biggest draw was an in ground valve pit, the kind your water meter is located. Each time it was occupied it thrive for a couple of months and fail as there was no queen to keep it going. Nor was any honey produced. I found one hive in a 5 gal bucket, another in the side of the electric bldg, one which did quite well was underneath a metal cargo container and still another hanging chest high in the bushes and was still going when I retired from job. At my barn now there is one 30ft up a tree exposed on a limb. Doing very well.
When I was in high school in the 60's we had a swarm land on a limb of an apple tree about 5 feet off the ground. The scouts never found a good home so they just started building comb below the limb. They could only fit 2 combs on the width of the limb so each comb kept getting wider along the limb and closer to the ground till the weight tore it loose near the top of the comb. They just started rebuilding the comb no matter how often it fell. I lost track of it after summer was over and school started so I never saw what happened to them.
I am learning about beekeeping to start next spring myself. All awesome info. Just an idea for your cleats: don’t cut that squared quarter out of the board just cut them all the way through on a 45 if that makes sense. Good luck!
when you showed the persimmon trees I perked up because my mom has one by the road at her farm, and a few more deeper in the woods. Every year when the ripe fruit starts hitting the ground there are thousands of bees feeding off the crushed fruit. That shows me that bees know about that tree so I bet it would be a great place for a trap. Might encourage the bee colony to move closer to the food source ?
Great recommendations for swarm traps! I especially like the french cleats... My recommendation is to cut the french cleats with a tapered cleat, that way it'll seat a little deeper, and it will be a little more accommodating to misalignment (we are dealing with mother nature after all!). Keep up the great work!
Thanks, it's interesting to see other parts of the world and how people do things. Have you tried tilting your bale saw blade and ripping a 45 degree angle off a board? The thicker the board the more secure the cleat. You may be able to get a full cleat off a single board if it's an appropriate size. The angle of a French cleat pulls it back toward the fixing and makes it more secure the greater the weight. All the best for this season.
I get all my bees with swarm traps. The one thing that makes the most difference in sucess is to put it in tree shade. The dappled tree shade is key. Heights, directions ,ect. , doesn't matter. I put an ordinary box on a simple hive stand. As long as it's in proper dappled shade it catches bees. Use good swarm lure.
Thankyou for sharing this great video. I'm new to the bee industry but been thinking about it for several years. Also I've read quite a bit on bees. With the situation of bees dying because either of a disease are mites. Maybe if more people would get involved it probably would help reduce these problems. If this video wasn't scripted hats off to you my friend. I live in southwestern Louisiana where the weather Could change anytime. I'm going to build these boxes and buy some of that there swarm commander. God bless and good luck to you.
That's what we did when I worked at the cabinet shop as a young man. I believe we set the table saw to 60 degrees. It was a pretty steep angle. And then we would rip a whole 8 or 10 foot piece of wood right down the middle.
I have been using swarm traps for the past 10 years and enjoy it tremendously almost like a kid in the candy shop when I catch a swarm. I really enjoyed your video the message you use for hanging yours in the tree is now going to be how I do it I really like that method good luck with your swarm traps
The 45º cut on the cleats is the way to go. Also; instead of using the small block on the bottom to hold the trap vertical, use a longer piece of 2x4 placed vertically and extending below the bottom of the trap. shoot a screw or two through it into the tree and your trap is going nowhere. To secure the lid, put a screw on both of the trap sides below the lid. Attach a piece of wire on each side of the lid above the screws and make a few turns around the screws. Way easier to do and less junk to drag around when hanging traps. Good vids by the way. Much appreciate them.
Great video! Could you explain your method for relocating the swarm once you have caught one? Like do you wait til after dark to put a plug in the hole?
I'm a wanna bee (heh) bee keeper (haven't done it yet, life keeps getting in the way). I've been reading up and watching videos of beekeeping for a couple years and this is the first I've heard of swarm traps. I've seen collection of swarms from their resting spots in trees or what-have-you, but this makes so much sense! Thank you for this thorough explanation of building and using swarm traps. I feel like I could make and mount my own just from watching your video!
Thanks for sharing your info on catching swarms. I am totally new to the ideas of catching / keeping bees and such. But what if you made your French cleat and added a downward piece making it the shape of a T? Then you could have screws that hit the center of the tree - making it easier to hang level.
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. I am just starting out and soaking up all I can to be successful at it. Hope you get plenty of honey this year.. I cannot afford to pay 120 for 3# of bees, would much rather catch them..
I plan on getting into beekeeping next year but I plan on trapping a swarm in order to start. I like making things and a challenge so what I save from not buying a nuc can go towards a box and supplies
Outstanding. For years I have asked local beekeepers about doing this and always got the same answer, “You just got to be there when they swarm”. I have an old abandoned farm house on farm land across the ridge from Asheville. There has been a hive in the wall for most of the last 20 years. I work out of state most of the year so I can’t be there whenever they swarm. I don’t want to tear out the wall and destroy what’s there to get the bees and risk losing them while I’m gone. How far from the existing hive would you place the trap? 50-100ft? Or a few hundred yards to the next ridge? Thanks, I appreciate the great information.
great video, definitely some ideas I will use. however putting screws into trees is not advisable for the health of the tree. the angled cleat others have mentioned is easier to make and take off. definitely will be checking out dr leo's traps.
Screws in the tree is better than nails in the tree. Screws will tend to spread the wood fibers where a nail would rip thru the wood fibers because screws have sharper points than the same size nails and the body of the screw is more tapered than the high angled point of a nail.
Hi Joseph great information, on swarm traps but I saw another guy using swarm traps his hangers were much simpler a 1x6 about 2 and 1/2 feet long, 2 inch round hole at the top and that board is screwed to 10 or 8 frame box, his lid doesn't have sides so it fits flush. He will just hang it to a limb in the tree or put a long screw into the tree to hang from and use a strap to steady it from the wind.
Great video...Try predrilling you holes on you mounting brackets with 1/8 inch bit.The bottom spacer bar can hang down 6 inches for more screws for holding power.
Thinking about getting into the hobby with maybe a couple of hives in the spring. I have 20acres in the middle of farmland, and know of no one nearby keeping bees, so I'm thinking the back lot may just be a good place to set up the hives with a shot of Swarm Commander and see what shows up. I've got a while, as it's Dec and here in NY so swarming is still a ways off, meanwhile I'm getting an education from youtube, thanks for a great contribution to it. Subbed.
Rather than 2 cuts , do 1 so it is a wedge and will fix it self no mater the angle of the tree and it also will self tighten with down pressure , lastly is less work .
Thanks for this information. I found your video’s last year but did not get a chance to follow thru last year so going to give it a try this year. Thanks for all the help. What’s your thought for how to bait if all I have is all new equipment. If I wax dip the boxes would that be better than just new boxes or not .??
AWESOME VIDEO!... you should mention how many traps you put out & how many you catch ratio, lol, size matters, at your one box, not sure you noticed the bee flying opposite you kinda looked behind the tree already smelling the SC, I caught a swarm out of a tree last year with a net, just got lucky, they're still here for splits in a couple mo! love all your cool insight and unique info Paula in MT
Great video Joseph. My 2 cents would be to cut your hanging cleats with the vertical part being angled some. It doesn't have to be as great as a 45 degree but a little angle will help. They do not have to seat all the way in. Only part way will be fine. Make the bottom 2x4 stick down a couple of inches (yeah I know it won't sit level on the ground) and put a deck screw through it into the tree to hold it secure. My other idea would be instead of using those expensive ratchet straps I would just wrap a bungee cord around it and hook it to itself. Sweet Beekeeping!
I got an update video on the cleats scheduled for tomorrow. Bungees would work but I have plenty of ratchet straps laying around. They are cheap at harbor freight. I thought about the 2x4 hanging down as well however it would be a pain during transport. A solution would be a 2x4 that swivels. Thanks for watching.
3/4" hole for entrance!! Yes! This is the info. I have been looking for - since you have been successful, I am assuming that this will let the larger queen and drones through. I was planning on making multiple small holes right in a row so that I start out with something mouse and bird proof/resistant. The only problem I had with the video was tree damage via drilling holes in them. Have you had any problems with it causing disease or weakening the tree's resistance to bugs? Thanks so much for the info.
I haven't heard anyone use the term "mating yard." what is that about? Thank you for this outstanding video!!! You did a super job and it is also great to see you having your kid around to absorb what his Pops does!
Just ran across your videos and that's a great swarm trap design and maybe use a smaller board on the swarm trap and the 2x4 split on the tree .good luck this spring. 💕🐝🐝🐝🐝
Great video. I built some similar traps. My woodworking was a bit off and they turned out to be 4 frame traps; however, they worked just fine. One of these day’s I’ll make some better/larger ones. Check out the “May have caught three swarms today” to see them in action.
Thanks - I saw a bee removal video, where bees had took up in the back of an old toilet tank. I don't need the honeycomb, just safe polinators - as the city council keeps allowing spraying for mosquitos and this spring we started wiith fewer than 3 bees per 25x 5' of flowering clover, thyme, & none in the garden out back (no useable strawberries all season). We finally got up to higher numbers, but a day after spraying followed by a few 60° nights, and the numbers are decimated again. Price of wood being what it is, here, I'm thinking of cleaning a toilet tank out, putting some insulation around it, setting up the inside with all the accoutrements and the recommended dose of Swarm Commander. This way, they can do their thing, but when the City sets about spraying, I can cover the gardens AND the hive overnight. Whaddaya think?
You have a nice place there where you live, much better than a small city. The main questions I had you covered, as you have one hole. I know birds are a bad thing in there are they want their safety. Also did not know about keeping the light out. Is it best with one hole enough where it is easily defended or having a second one somewhere that is mostly covered? Not so much interested in bees for honey or such as for pollinators. I know there are some wild ones that do seem to like rosemary and other plants with the little blue flowers.
Liked & Subscribed. Good video - learned a lot, and I see we watch the same videos for doing research. This will be my first year for trying swarm traps. I think the thing that is missing is a door to keep the bees inside. Maybe you intend on putting a cork into the opening when you transport the bees?
Hello, I'm getting a new Flow Hive next year. I live in NYC and will have it on a rooftop garden. I want to get a swarm rather than buying. My methods are using a time-release LemonGrass oil in the hive, and rubbing the entire hive with melted propolis and hope for the best. Do you have any other suggestions or ideas? Grateful.
You did not address the problem of taking down the trap when full of bees. I use a vertical hanging board spaced out on the trap with a hole to hang over a big nail in the tree. I use a strap vertically around the trap to hold the cover on and use the remaining end horizontally around the trap and tree. The entrance is a slit with a vented board cover that swivels over the entrance to keep the bees in when moving the trap. Six frames baited with propolis, lemon grass sent, and one drawn frame. Tom Sealey talks about the best hive volume and entrance size. Regards, Rick
@B3 NICE VIDEO I DID NOTICE THAN YOU HAVE A LONG STRIP OF EXTRA ORANGE STRAP AND LONG TO MAKE A X WRAP BEJAIN THE TREE AND ALROUND YOU HIVE ( BEE TRAP ) THANKS .
Nicely done. Details are good. Need to follow up to understand some of the terminology! ;) I do know a little bit 'bout French Cleats and wood grain direction. The French Cleat that should work best/better when made from ordinary 2 by lumber would be one made with an angular cut leaving more meat on each piece of the cleat (nip off the sharp point about 1/4" back). Wood will SWELL and put pressure on that horizontal grain. I might be wrong, but one or two raining seasons and those right angles cleats might split and fail. Best drawing I can do here: / | \ | Thanks for the video and links and such!
Can I suggest a more simple cleat to hang the trap? Take a 2×4 and rip it down the center on a 45 degree angle, put the backward angle on the tree, and the other half on the back of the box. Many cabinet installers use this method to hang upper cabinets.
same design I use, but I prefer the hole on the side, just because when you try to move them you aren't face to face with the entrance, and they don't seem to care.
It might not be for everybody......don't get hurt or tear up your trap....But I do the Dr. Leo slit style opening............I carefully plunge cut using the very end of my chainsaw blade.....Watch out it squirrels around until you get a grooves started......I start low and plunge it in pointing upwards.....this lets it drain......You can add a landing board if you like.....The cut has to be wide enough to let in the queen.....I waller it out a little bit.....It doesn't have to be perfect. Bees in. Keep birds out.
Regarding your French Cleat, might I suggest angling the flanges, as opposed to straight? Just a midway cut along the 4(3 1/2) inch face to the far corner of the 2 (1 3/4) inch face. If you use a 2x6 you should get both pieces from the same board.
You have enough strap to wrap it like a gift box, horizontal then twist to vertical and over the top to secure your lid and box in one go. Hope I'm not clear as mud :)
Very interesting. Suggest talking overall topuc from very start with explanatory review to help beginners understand better. For instance how much land might be legally required. How much time to get into hive. Approximate cost to determine if possible.
I went to Robs page, I didn’t see anything about the ladder you used, I’m also curious where to acquire one of those, nice ladder, and great video, thanks
I've watched a bunch of swarm trap videos, and I think that this is the best of them all.
Caught a huge swarm yesterday in a trap inspired by this video. Many thanks!
Tell us about your knee high fan club.
To deal with your French cleat issue, try ripping your 2x4 on a 45 degree angle instead of using a square notch. This is more forgiving when the tree is a little crooked.
Hello Joseph great video. What I use for traps is old hive boxes I buy from a commercial beekeeper. They are his culls and I get them for $1 each because he is just going to burn them. I cut one in half and nail it to the bottom of a full one. I then nail a piece of plywood on for a bottom, put 2 or 3 frames with old combs in and 7 foundationless frames. I close it up with another hunk of plywood screwed on top for easy removal. For an entrance I just drill a 1" hole in the end somewhere and put a nail in it to keep the birds out. The boxes are almost black inside with propolis etc. giving them a real hive smell. I don't even use a bait anymore because I haven't needed to, but if you want it would probably improve your chances. I live on the prairies of Alberta so there is not much to hang them on, usually I screw them to the top of a fence post facing east away from prevailing winds. I have one trap in the floor of a neighbor's pump house. I made a removable piece of floor and built 10 frames in between the joists. That trap even with the entrance being 5" above ground level has given me 1 or 2 swarms each year for 3 years. I just go in and remove the frames of bees and put them into a hive.
Hey there , I like your method ! Where abouts in alberta do u live ?
Why is he getting rid of the hive boxes? Aren't you worried about hive problems?
@@Vbluevital Commercial hive boxes get pretty beat up faster than those of a hobbyist so they just replace them after a certain amount of wear. That's cheaper than making repairs. Most hive problems like possible diseases can mostly be covered with a propane torch giving the hive a good scorch. Also, most hobbyists are used to either making repairs and a coat of paint as needed or letting it go till time to trash the old hive. At $1 per hive box many beekeepers would jump on that deal.
Great video! Very informative. I've been beekeeping for 3 years but have been unsuccessful in catching a swarm. Perhaps now I'll be more successful. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Excellent video. Thank you for all the information. I just made 4 swamp cather boxes so fingers crossed for next spring. Take care
I'm very impressed with your methods and thoughts.
2 suggestions from an old school teacher.
1. Use a 2 x 6 for the tree side cleat to give a larger area to attach to the tree.
2. Use a torpedo level that will fit in your pocket. (It will not hurt near as bad when it falls off on your head. LOL)
Great information! I have been riding the struggle bus trying to catch swarms. My assumptions for why I have been having problems match your recommendations.
Your trap system is amazing , in June 2019 two weeks a part caught two swarms , one six frames and second 23lb , thanks for sharing , regards from Ontario
Thanks for the education. You’ve got a great little helper there at the end. He’ll grow up right for sure!
Great ideas on the inner covers and the French cleats. I'll be using these on my future traps. I couldn't agree more about Swarm Commander. My son and I used it last week to get a swarm to march in to one of our Nucs, including the queen. No queen cage needed!
On your French cleats, you might try splitting a two by four at a 45-degree angle down the middle instead of taking out one of the quadrants. This also makes for a stronger piece of wood too due to the quadrant alleviation methods might shear or split off with weather exposure and wood drying out.
I am just setting up my first hive this spring. My bees are due to arrive the 2nd week in May. I got the hive and assembled it last summer and have been studying over the winter in hopes of being a successful beekeeper. I really didn't know much about swarm traps but came across your video and wow! You really take a lot of care and precision in building and setting these up. Your swarm traps look sturdier than my house. Great work and you sure seem to have a lot of knowledge. I'm learning something new everyday but it sure would be nice to have an expert close by to chat with. Are you aware of any good internet groups (even FB) that you would recommend for a newbie. Actually I'm an old lady but this will be my first hive. My grandpa and a great uncle had bees and I used to love it when they would give me a piece of honeycomb. I just want healthy bees and am not interested in selling honey or going 'big'. Thanks for the great information.
Just set up my 1st swarm trap using the French cleat method and using Swarm Commander gel. The trap is made out of a large super with 6 frames of drawn comb and lots of propylis for natural appeal. Wish me luck, and keep those vids coming!
Glenn Hoilman awesome. I am sure you will have one soon and be addicted like I am. Lol. Thanks for watching.
Most of the internal cavity should be empty space for best results. Old comb is a good lure but the bees are looking for space for all their population. They come ready to make wax so they don't mind drawing new comb. So, old empty frames or with starter strips are better than a box with more than one or two frames of drawn comb.
Came home one day with a swarm in my front yard. Rolled up the road and there were cop cars everywhere and a random pickup truck. Swarm was in a branch that was over the road. Cops called a local beekeeper to come get it. I'll be getting swarm traps once I start beekeeping for sure!
Thank you for video! Very informational. I lost seven hives this year and really want to catch a swarm that is local and maybe some of my old bees. I had a problem with wax moth and feel that they just left
Wow! Lots of information here. I've made some 7 frame boxes but made them to set on two 2 x 4's on the stand. My honest mistake with them is that I put wire mesh where they set on the 2 x 4's, thinking they need a little ventilation. I may re-vamp them this winter. Oh on mine because they have screened sections on the bottom, made a metal flip metal to cover the entrance for easy moving. And instead of the inch and a half circular hole I made 4 one-half inch drill holes close together. Because I did not set them out last year I ended up using them for the next size up from a nuc before a 10 frame hive. They smell like home now. We will see.
When I worked at a waste water plant I lost count on how many swarms established in just about anywhere. The one place that seemed to be the biggest draw was an in ground valve pit, the kind your water meter is located. Each time it was occupied it thrive for a couple of months and fail as there was no queen to keep it going. Nor was any honey produced. I found one hive in a 5 gal bucket, another in the side of the electric bldg, one which did quite well was underneath a metal cargo container and still another hanging chest high in the bushes and was still going when I retired from job. At my barn now there is one 30ft up a tree exposed on a limb. Doing very well.
When I was in high school in the 60's we had a swarm land on a limb of an apple tree about 5 feet off the ground. The scouts never found a good home so they just started building comb below the limb. They could only fit 2 combs on the width of the limb so each comb kept getting wider along the limb and closer to the ground till the weight tore it loose near the top of the comb. They just started rebuilding the comb no matter how often it fell. I lost track of it after summer was over and school started so I never saw what happened to them.
I am learning about beekeeping to start next spring myself. All awesome info. Just an idea for your cleats: don’t cut that squared quarter out of the board just cut them all the way through on a 45 if that makes sense. Good luck!
Thank you. Most complete and comprehensive video about swarm traps!
Diego vD Thanks for Watching. That was definitely the goal.
Great information sir. And your helper at 36:45 will surely be a blessing to you in years coming.
when you showed the persimmon trees I perked up because my mom has one by the road at her farm, and a few more deeper in the woods. Every year when the ripe fruit starts hitting the ground there are thousands of bees feeding off the crushed fruit. That shows me that bees know about that tree so I bet it would be a great place for a trap. Might encourage the bee colony to move closer to the food source ?
Great video, It sure it looks simple, but I’ll have many questions when I’ll start my first hive.
Thanks.
Great information, thank you for taking the time to put this together and share it with us
Great recommendations for swarm traps! I especially like the french cleats... My recommendation is to cut the french cleats with a tapered cleat, that way it'll seat a little deeper, and it will be a little more accommodating to misalignment (we are dealing with mother nature after all!). Keep up the great work!
Thanks, it's interesting to see other parts of the world and how people do things.
Have you tried tilting your bale saw blade and ripping a 45 degree angle off a board? The thicker the board the more secure the cleat. You may be able to get a full cleat off a single board if it's an appropriate size. The angle of a French cleat pulls it back toward the fixing and makes it more secure the greater the weight.
All the best for this season.
I was thinking the same thing. The 45 degree idea is also safer because the 90 degree cut made in the board creates a week point.
Cavan
..devan
Appreciate the shared knowledge, but the best part was the little boy helping
A very impressive educational film. Greetings from Sydney Australia
I get all my bees with swarm traps. The one thing that makes the most difference in sucess is to put it in tree shade. The dappled tree shade is key. Heights, directions ,ect. , doesn't matter. I put an ordinary box on a simple hive stand. As long as it's in proper dappled shade it catches bees.
Use good swarm lure.
Very informative and interesting stuff, I appreciate it a ton. Keep up the good work.
Thankyou for sharing this great video. I'm new to the bee industry but been thinking about it for several years. Also I've read quite a bit on bees. With the situation of bees dying because either of a disease are mites. Maybe if more people would get involved it probably would help reduce these problems. If this video wasn't scripted hats off to you my friend. I live in southwestern Louisiana where the weather Could change anytime. I'm going to build these boxes and buy some of that there swarm commander. God bless and good luck to you.
No script just thought of everything I could think of people that people need to know.
Try a French cleat design that’s got a 45 degrees slanted groove rather than 90 degrees groove.
I was just going to say the same. Instead I will second your post.
Ti Man... me too! One no measure cut, instead of two you have to get right!
That's what we did when I worked at the cabinet shop as a young man. I believe we set the table saw to 60 degrees. It was a pretty steep angle. And then we would rip a whole 8 or 10 foot piece of wood right down the middle.
THOSE HANG GOOD, I MADE A WALL CAN HOLDER, THATS HOW I HUNG IT
I have been using swarm traps for the past 10 years and enjoy it tremendously almost like a kid in the candy shop when I catch a swarm. I really enjoyed your video the message you use for hanging yours in the tree is now going to be how I do it I really like that method good luck with your swarm traps
Miter your cleat.
Thanks, I have had bees go into empty hives set up on the ground without bees in just by chance. But will try a few catch boxes after watching this.
The 45º cut on the cleats is the way to go. Also; instead of using the small block on the bottom to hold the trap vertical, use a longer piece of 2x4 placed vertically and extending below the bottom of the trap. shoot a screw or two through it into the tree and your trap is going nowhere. To secure the lid, put a screw on both of the trap sides below the lid. Attach a piece of wire on each side of the lid above the screws and make a few turns around the screws. Way easier to do and less junk to drag around when hanging traps. Good vids by the way. Much appreciate them.
Great video! Could you explain your method for relocating the swarm once you have caught one? Like do you wait til after dark to put a plug in the hole?
I'm a wanna bee (heh) bee keeper (haven't done it yet, life keeps getting in the way). I've been reading up and watching videos of beekeeping for a couple years and this is the first I've heard of swarm traps. I've seen collection of swarms from their resting spots in trees or what-have-you, but this makes so much sense! Thank you for this thorough explanation of building and using swarm traps. I feel like I could make and mount my own just from watching your video!
Check out 628 Dirt Rooster's videos. His videos are good also.
Maybe start some crops too?
Thanks for sharing your info on catching swarms. I am totally new to the ideas of catching / keeping bees and such. But what if you made your French cleat and added a downward piece making it the shape of a T? Then you could have screws that hit the center of the tree - making it easier to hang level.
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. I am just starting out and soaking up all I can to be successful at it. Hope you get plenty of honey this year.. I cannot afford to pay 120 for 3# of bees, would much rather catch them..
first swarm i caught was in a metal tool box off a pickup. The second was in a stack of flower pots, both of theses were sitting on the ground
Tnx, I was wondering are there easier ways to do things.
I plan on getting into beekeeping next year but I plan on trapping a swarm in order to start. I like making things and a challenge so what I save from not buying a nuc can go towards a box and supplies
Outstanding. For years I have asked local beekeepers about doing this and always got the same answer, “You just got to be there when they swarm”. I have an old abandoned farm house on farm land across the ridge from Asheville. There has been a hive in the wall for most of the last 20 years. I work out of state most of the year so I can’t be there whenever they swarm. I don’t want to tear out the wall and destroy what’s there to get the bees and risk losing them while I’m gone. How far from the existing hive would you place the trap? 50-100ft? Or a few hundred yards to the next ridge? Thanks, I appreciate the great information.
Loved seeing your little fella helping you! So sweet!
Thank you for this video Mr.Brown. It is very helpful. We'll definitely try this..
Very good video. Very informative.
I'll be making French cleats now.
great video, definitely some ideas I will use. however putting screws into trees is not advisable for the health of the tree. the angled cleat others have mentioned is easier to make and take off. definitely will be checking out dr leo's traps.
Screws in the tree is better than nails in the tree. Screws will tend to spread the wood fibers where a nail would rip thru the wood fibers because screws have sharper points than the same size nails and the body of the screw is more tapered than the high angled point of a nail.
Full of wisdom. Very thorough and comprehensive and well presented!
Dan Pratte don’t know about wisdom, but I have hung a trap or two. Thanks for watching.
Hi Joseph great information, on swarm traps but I saw another guy using swarm traps his hangers were much simpler a 1x6 about 2 and 1/2 feet long, 2 inch round hole at the top and that board is screwed to 10 or 8 frame box, his lid doesn't have sides so it fits flush. He will just hang it to a limb in the tree or put a long screw into the tree to hang from and use a strap to steady it from the wind.
Great video...Try predrilling you holes on you mounting brackets with 1/8 inch bit.The bottom spacer bar can hang down 6 inches for more screws for holding power.
Wow there are a lot of birds where ur at. Great video. Thanks for sharing. God bless u and urs
Thinking about getting into the hobby with maybe a couple of hives in the spring. I have 20acres in the middle of farmland, and know of no one nearby keeping bees, so I'm thinking the back lot may just be a good place to set up the hives with a shot of Swarm Commander and see what shows up.
I've got a while, as it's Dec and here in NY so swarming is still a ways off, meanwhile I'm getting an education from youtube, thanks for a great contribution to it. Subbed.
Thanks for sharing my friend. Will use your knowledge going forward in my journey with honeybees. Thank you.
I would imagine that level and plumb would be ideal. Great video, very informative thanks.
Joe the cleat is an excellent idea just make one more pass on the saw to make either the top or bottom cleats a little thinner
How many separate traps do you use for the season? How many swarms would you say you avg with that number of traps?
Thank you for sharing this and teaching us
Rather than 2 cuts , do 1 so it is a wedge and will fix it self no mater the angle of the tree and it also will self tighten with down pressure , lastly is less work .
images.app.goo.gl/BvBupiRNbsBDCxe99
Lesson learned, a great helper is priceless!! And Helper's like that will stick with you!!
Thanks for this information. I found your video’s last year but did not get a chance to follow thru last year so going to give it a try this year. Thanks for all the help. What’s your thought for how to bait if all I have is all new equipment. If I wax dip the boxes would that be better than just new boxes or not .??
AWESOME VIDEO!... you should mention how many traps you put out & how many you catch ratio, lol, size matters, at your one box, not sure you noticed the bee flying opposite you kinda looked behind the tree already smelling the SC, I caught a swarm out of a tree last year with a net, just got lucky, they're still here for splits in a couple mo! love all your cool insight and unique info
Paula in MT
Great video Joseph. My 2 cents would be to cut your hanging cleats with the vertical part being angled some. It doesn't have to be as great as a 45 degree but a little angle will help. They do not have to seat all the way in. Only part way will be fine. Make the bottom 2x4 stick down a couple of inches (yeah I know it won't sit level on the ground) and put a deck screw through it into the tree to hold it secure. My other idea would be instead of using those expensive ratchet straps I would just wrap a bungee cord around it and hook it to itself. Sweet Beekeeping!
I got an update video on the cleats scheduled for tomorrow. Bungees would work but I have plenty of ratchet straps laying around. They are cheap at harbor freight. I thought about the 2x4 hanging down as well however it would be a pain during transport. A solution would be a 2x4 that swivels. Thanks for watching.
You had plenty of help there at the end! So cute!
Just a suggestion: Add a 1/4" or 1/2 " strip to the mounted 2X4. This would bring the bottom 2X4 out enough to clear any incumbrance of the tree.
Yang Yi Chen is right...try it. You got one terrific boy. He is so involved. Also I appreciate the detail you give. It's the small things that count.
We have a swarm of bees in our garden I have made a bee hive and tomorrow hopefully I will relocate them to the hive, wish me luck!
Thanks for using Swarm Commander!
3/4" hole for entrance!! Yes! This is the info. I have been looking for - since you have been successful, I am assuming that this will let the larger queen and drones through. I was planning on making multiple small holes right in a row so that I start out with something mouse and bird proof/resistant. The only problem I had with the video was tree damage via drilling holes in them. Have you had any problems with it causing disease or weakening the tree's resistance to bugs? Thanks so much for the info.
I haven't heard anyone use the term "mating yard." what is that about? Thank you for this outstanding video!!! You did a super job and it is also great to see you having your kid around to absorb what his Pops does!
If I said that then I was speaking of a place where I take queen cells and place them in boxes to emerge and mate.
@@joebrown2487 thank you. I noticed I think a video on "grafting" too that I am ignorant about do will check it out. Thanks again
Just ran across your videos and that's a great swarm trap design and maybe use a smaller board on the swarm trap and the 2x4 split on the tree .good luck this spring. 💕🐝🐝🐝🐝
Great info and thanks for the tips for catching swarms.
Great video. I built some similar traps. My woodworking was a bit off and they turned out to be 4 frame traps; however, they worked just fine. One of these day’s I’ll make some better/larger ones. Check out the
“May have caught three swarms today” to see them in action.
after reading all the comments, how did you do on catching swarms ? Are you still using swarm commander only for bait? (other than comb)
If I have small cracks or a small hole I'll mix sawdust in with the glue and make a paste to fill those cracks
Awesome video! Its very helpful and informative.
Thanks - I saw a bee removal video, where bees had took up in the back of an old toilet tank. I don't need the honeycomb, just safe polinators - as the city council keeps allowing spraying for mosquitos and this spring we started wiith fewer than 3 bees per 25x 5' of flowering clover, thyme, & none in the garden out back (no useable strawberries all season). We finally got up to higher numbers, but a day after spraying followed by a few 60° nights, and the numbers are decimated again. Price of wood being what it is, here, I'm thinking of cleaning a toilet tank out, putting some insulation around it, setting up the inside with all the accoutrements and the recommended dose of Swarm Commander. This way, they can do their thing, but when the City sets about spraying, I can cover the gardens AND the hive overnight. Whaddaya think?
Thank you for sharing your experience. I am grateful you have shared. I wish I had neighbors like you. All the best.
You have a nice place there where you live, much better than a small city. The main questions I had you covered, as you have one hole. I know birds are a bad thing in there are they want their safety. Also did not know about keeping the light out. Is it best with one hole enough where it is easily defended or having a second one somewhere that is mostly covered? Not so much interested in bees for honey or such as for pollinators. I know there are some wild ones that do seem to like rosemary and other plants with the little blue flowers.
Liked & Subscribed. Good video - learned a lot, and I see we watch the same videos for doing research. This will be my first year for trying swarm traps. I think the thing that is missing is a door to keep the bees inside. Maybe you intend on putting a cork into the opening when you transport the bees?
Corks are easy to lose. If you want to seal the hole slap a piece of duct tape over it.
Hello, I'm getting a new Flow Hive next year. I live in NYC and will have it on a rooftop garden. I want to get a swarm rather than buying. My methods are using a time-release LemonGrass oil in the hive, and rubbing the entire hive with melted propolis and hope for the best. Do you have any other suggestions or ideas? Grateful.
You did not address the problem of taking down the trap when full of bees. I use a vertical hanging board spaced out on the trap with a hole to hang over a big nail in the tree. I use a strap vertically around the trap to hold the cover on and use the remaining end horizontally around the trap and tree. The entrance is a slit with a vented board cover that swivels over the entrance to keep the bees in when moving the trap. Six frames baited with propolis, lemon grass sent, and one drawn frame. Tom Sealey talks about the best hive volume and entrance size. Regards, Rick
That's a boy that really admires his dad. Hahaha. He wanted to be on that ladder with you so bad.
@B3 NICE VIDEO I DID NOTICE THAN YOU HAVE A LONG STRIP OF EXTRA ORANGE STRAP AND LONG TO MAKE A X WRAP BEJAIN THE TREE AND ALROUND YOU HIVE ( BEE TRAP ) THANKS .
Nicely done. Details are good. Need to follow up to understand some of the terminology! ;) I do know a little bit 'bout French Cleats and wood grain direction. The French Cleat that should work best/better when made from ordinary 2 by lumber would be one made with an angular cut leaving more meat on each piece of the cleat (nip off the sharp point about 1/4" back). Wood will SWELL and put pressure on that horizontal grain. I might be wrong, but one or two raining seasons and those right angles cleats might split and fail. Best drawing I can do here: / | \ | Thanks for the video and links and such!
Next time try a 55 degree cut French cleat. It stronger and more forgiving on fit. It's also just one cut per board!
Can I suggest a more simple cleat to hang the trap?
Take a 2×4 and rip it down the center on a 45 degree angle, put the backward angle on the tree, and the other half on the back of the box.
Many cabinet installers use this method to hang upper cabinets.
Great instructional video, I will definitely use your suggestions. Thank you
Great information. And and you have a good little helper☺
Thanks for the gread video. How did your 3/4 inch holes work out?
Nicely done that lil bee helper will be tinkering in your bee hives bee for long!!!
Thanks for the video! On your French Cleats I'd be mindful of the grain of the wood. It seems some of your thin sections will be prone to snap off.
same design I use, but I prefer the hole on the side, just because when you try to move them you aren't face to face with the entrance, and they don't seem to care.
I move at night and have those entrance covers that you can twist closed
It might not be for everybody......don't get hurt or tear up your trap....But I do the Dr. Leo slit style opening............I carefully plunge cut using the very end of my chainsaw blade.....Watch out it squirrels around until you get a grooves started......I start low and plunge it in pointing upwards.....this lets it drain......You can add a landing board if you like.....The cut has to be wide enough to let in the queen.....I waller it out a little bit.....It doesn't have to be perfect.
Bees in. Keep birds out.
Regarding your French Cleat, might I suggest angling the flanges, as opposed to straight? Just a midway cut along the 4(3 1/2) inch face to the far corner of the 2 (1 3/4) inch face. If you use a 2x6 you should get both pieces from the same board.
You have enough strap to wrap it like a gift box, horizontal then twist to vertical and over the top to secure your lid and box in one go. Hope I'm not clear as mud :)
reduce the thickness of the bottom cleat. I keep thinking it might goo in easier. love your video and the towhead.
Great info, actually know a lot of people who put swarm traps on the ground
Very interesting. Suggest talking overall topuc from very start with explanatory review to help beginners understand better. For instance how much land might be legally required. How much time to get into hive. Approximate cost to determine if possible.
No minimum requirement for land area. A good book for beginner beekeeper is Honey Bee Democracy
what kind of paint do you use to paint your swarms? How long do you let is dry or sit out for before using it?
Just found your channel. Loved the video. New subscriber.
Love the LADDER "Bad Ass" where did you purchase it - great lil helper. Thanks
Rob Horstman made a video on that. Check it out.
I went to Robs page, I didn’t see anything about the ladder you used, I’m also curious where to acquire one of those, nice ladder, and great video, thanks
Never mind, I found it,, thanks again for great video.
@@matthewtidwell66 where did you find it?