This is the same procedure I had to do on a older model Matrix - both sides. All the bushings were gone and sway bar links. Pain in the neck. And no, dropping the oil pan does not give enough room for the bolt to come out. Props to you for doing such a big job.
I dropped my pan before watching this video I had no choice I had to pick to pick a struggle Tear it down from the top down or tear it up from the bottom I choose to get a a new control arm and a fresh trans oil change at 190k miles
Remove tire, spray all bushings with a silicone based grease or rub some on. I found the spray easier. Noise is gone. We'll see how long it lasts. I recently picked up a 16 Corolla with the same noise issue. Couple vids here on youtube where guys just greased all the bushings and it went away. One comment mentioned using a silicone based grease was better as it wouldn't damage the rubber over time. This noise is a known issue at Toyota but Corporates' position is to deny and try to sell you a $$$ repair. BTW it's usually that rear bushing making the noise but can be both.
In my opinion, TRQ products are not good but it cheap so you get what you pay for. Brake rotors will pulsate after few month, sway bar link doesn’t last long, wheel bearings goes bad after few month, brand new shock doesn’t make any difference. These are some of the patterns I noticed using TRQ brand. If you have the budget and don’t want to do the same job two or three time, I would go with popular brand.
I am doing this job right now 2024.02.04. Luckily i have a 2000 corolla and i dont have a clearance issue with the bolt that requires raising the engine.
@@Taohmoo Thanks for the information. I think my 09 Corolla making those noise and I just checked and I also need to raise up the transmission. 😭 but thanks for the video. 👍
I am a do-it-yourselfer. Horrific that you had to go up to the top of the engine bay to remove those two parts thanks to a bolt that won’t come out. Oil pan removal with new gasket is almost a better option. It’s debatable. Make me sick as I have the same noise and happens on bumps, dips, stops, etc.
That part isn’t bad. Changing CVT fluid is a good thing. It’s super difficult to strip pan bolts. They are not on tight. In fact, you will wonder how they can be on that loose. The only concern I have is a leak from the pan gasket from leaving a couple of bolts too loose from trying not to over tighten them. If I do I tighten them a bit more. It’s worse to over tighten them and crush the sealant or gasket (depends which is used). Edit: After watching the video again, I will gladly remove the pan. I did that anyway when I first got the car used and changed the fluid and strainer(filter). I changed the fluid again not the long ago but will change it again to change the control arms or just the bushings. Fewer steps to remember. I now forget where I put tools, where what bolt goes where, etc. It makes my jobs longer to do now.
@@yactabay I mean Strip as in tighten too much until the threads on the aluminum transmission side rip out. RTV usually has instructions on how long to wait until final tightening, to allow it to dry enough. I've done this on a similar transmission and just a little overtightening because of an inaccurate torque wrench caused 3 of them to strip. Thankfully helicoils work nicely. I would rather go through the engine mount way than all of that though, CVT drain and fill works as well.
@ I don’t know man, have you noticed torque on some of these pan bolts is just like 18 ft lbs? That’s basically just a light tightening of the wrench with a little extra. Depends on gasket type or sealant. Some are a bit more. I’ve done these pans enough times in my life that I’m just comfortable with removing and replacing them by now. If you’re more comfortable with the top it’s cool. Our exchange helps other readers make a decision. 🙂
Great video, straight to the point, no unnecessary commentary.
This is the same procedure I had to do on a older model Matrix - both sides. All the bushings were gone and sway bar links. Pain in the neck. And no, dropping the oil pan does not give enough room for the bolt to come out. Props to you for doing such a big job.
Maybe dropping the pan doesn’t help on the Matrix but does on the Corolla. It looks like it will.
@@yactabay Let me know how it goes.
@@rabudman Who knows when I’ll get around to it. I may not remember this post by then.
I dropped my pan before watching this video
I had no choice
I had to pick to pick a struggle
Tear it down from the top down or tear it up from the bottom
I choose to get a a new control arm and a fresh trans oil change at 190k miles
I’ve been looking for a guide on a 2015 Corolla. Thanks man!
I' ve got that same problem can' t wait to get my car fixed and you did it sooo fast woow!
Yeah, it only took him 20 minutes and 49 seconds😂
Remove tire, spray all bushings with a silicone based grease or rub some on. I found the spray easier. Noise is gone. We'll see how long it lasts.
I recently picked up a 16 Corolla with the same noise issue. Couple vids here on youtube where guys just greased all the bushings and it went away. One comment mentioned using a silicone based grease was better as it wouldn't damage the rubber over time.
This noise is a known issue at Toyota but Corporates' position is to deny and try to sell you a $$$ repair. BTW it's usually that rear bushing making the noise but can be both.
What are the size wrench bits did you need ?
Hello! How good is the quality parts from TRQ? Do you recommend those control arm replacement? Thanks!
In my opinion, TRQ products are not good but it cheap so you get what you pay for. Brake rotors will pulsate after few month, sway bar link doesn’t last long, wheel bearings goes bad after few month, brand new shock doesn’t make any difference. These are some of the patterns I noticed using TRQ brand. If you have the budget and don’t want to do the same job two or three time, I would go with popular brand.
@@Taohmoo Thanks for your feedback!
I am doing this job right now 2024.02.04. Luckily i have a 2000 corolla and i dont have a clearance issue with the bolt that requires raising the engine.
Great video bud 👍🏻
Removing spanner size plese 😊
Hi What is the reason you changing it, the car is relatively new. Does the control arm have noise due to bad bushing? Thanks in advance.
Bushings making noise when came to stop or accelerate, not a safety issue
@@Taohmoo Thanks for the information. I think my 09 Corolla making those noise and I just checked and I also need to raise up the transmission. 😭 but thanks for the video. 👍
did you got any issues with alignment? noise went away ?
The noise went away, and I don’t have any problem with alignment but it doesn’t hurt to get alignment done after.
Bro where did you buy control arm
Online on EBay
Dropping the subframe 4x bolts about an inch wil do it. no need for all that extra nonse😅
Yep ur right
Super film
I am a do-it-yourselfer. Horrific that you had to go up to the top of the engine bay to remove those two parts thanks to a bolt that won’t come out. Oil pan removal with new gasket is almost a better option. It’s debatable. Make me sick as I have the same noise and happens on bumps, dips, stops, etc.
It is better
It happened to me before I saw this video
I install the new control arm and fresh transmission fluid
Oil pan removal means CVT oil change which is even more complication, and $$ for oil, and and easy to strip those oil pan bolts.
That part isn’t bad. Changing CVT fluid is a good thing. It’s super difficult to strip pan bolts. They are not on tight. In fact, you will wonder how they can be on that loose. The only concern I have is a leak from the pan gasket from leaving a couple of bolts too loose from trying not to over tighten them. If I do I tighten them a bit more. It’s worse to over tighten them and crush the sealant or gasket (depends which is used). Edit: After watching the video again, I will gladly remove the pan. I did that anyway when I first got the car used and changed the fluid and strainer(filter). I changed the fluid again not the long ago but will change it again to change the control arms or just the bushings. Fewer steps to remember. I now forget where I put tools, where what bolt goes where, etc. It makes my jobs longer to do now.
@@yactabay I mean Strip as in tighten too much until the threads on the aluminum transmission side rip out. RTV usually has instructions on how long to wait until final tightening, to allow it to dry enough. I've done this on a similar transmission and just a little overtightening because of an inaccurate torque wrench caused 3 of them to strip. Thankfully helicoils work nicely. I would rather go through the engine mount way than all of that though, CVT drain and fill works as well.
@ I don’t know man, have you noticed torque on some of these pan bolts is just like 18 ft lbs? That’s basically just a light tightening of the wrench with a little extra. Depends on gasket type or sealant. Some are a bit more. I’ve done these pans enough times in my life that I’m just comfortable with removing and replacing them by now. If you’re more comfortable with the top it’s cool. Our exchange helps other readers make a decision. 🙂
Tayota verso same 2010 model valavematick
Casi tienes que desarmar el pinche carro , solo para reemplazar el control arm 😏 se mamaron los ingenieros con esto
I’m thinking that the one you took out should be in better shape than the one you put in after that beating. Thanks for the video though.
Doing it wrong.