15:57 The Echo workshop manual specifies an initial carburetor setting of 1.25 turns out for the low jet and 2-3/8 turns for the high jet. I grind off the limiter stops with a Dremel and reinstall them for easier future tuning.
I download every service manual I can find to check basics prior to reassembly - spark plug gap, air gap, carburetor initial settings. Contrary to most advice, manufacturers have different specs for these measurements and it saves a lot of time by starting off with the factory settings, especially if you’ve replaced diaphragms. Owners often mess with settings as diaphragms and engine condition change over time, so resetting to factory specs makes more sense to me than listening to many different opinions about initial settings. Also, you can learn a massive amount by reading service manuals.
NEEDLE ASSEMBLY INSTALL I’ve developed a method for installing the needle, lever, axle and spring that is dead easy using silicone/dielectric grease to hold pieces together. The grease washes away easily as the engine fires. I use a large set of tweezers and the open tube of grease, inserting first the spring into the tube and then setting in its location in the carb. Then the axle is dipped into the grease and inserted into the lever. Lastly, the top of the needle is greased and set in place into the lever. All ready to install, making sure to have the screw and magnetic screwdriver close at hand to install. I make sure the axle is offset more or less correctly to fit and in everything goes! Easy peasey, even for fumble fingers or sausage fingers! 🔧👍
I always check the needle lever height prior to disassembly. If it’s correct then I don’t replace it with a new one that may require adjustment. To check height I hold the carb and gauge up to a light and slide the gauge over the lever to see if the gauge stops against the lever or shows light in the gap.
I like to change the needle when the kit is decent quality. The lever is considered a “wear item” even though it’s minute so I just always checked after replacement. I will have to try your way next time
If a fuel line slides onto or off a nipple too easily then it’s probably time to replace all the fuel lines and the purge bulb. Might as well do it now than have a comeback a few months down the line. I always replace them all at the same time so I have a baseline for future work on the same engine. Plus, it’s easier to diagnose when the black lines and UV/fuel-discolored purge bulb are replaced with ones that allow viewing of fuel flow. I leave some extra length on the lines to make it easier to maneuver the carb into position, making sure the extra length doesn’t interfere with moving throttle and choke linkage rods. The extra length allows for cutting off an end in the future if necessary.
Have you faced similar issues with your Echo CS 370 chainsaw? Share your experiences or questions below!
15:57 The Echo workshop manual specifies an initial carburetor setting of 1.25 turns out for the low jet and 2-3/8 turns for the high jet.
I grind off the limiter stops with a Dremel and reinstall them for easier future tuning.
Good info! Thanks for sharing! That’s about where I ended up
I download every service manual I can find to check basics prior to reassembly - spark plug gap, air gap, carburetor initial settings. Contrary to most advice, manufacturers have different specs for these measurements and it saves a lot of time by starting off with the factory settings, especially if you’ve replaced diaphragms.
Owners often mess with settings as diaphragms and engine condition change over time, so resetting to factory specs makes more sense to me than listening to many different opinions about initial settings.
Also, you can learn a massive amount by reading service manuals.
NEEDLE ASSEMBLY INSTALL
I’ve developed a method for installing the needle, lever, axle and spring that is dead easy using silicone/dielectric grease to hold pieces together. The grease washes away easily as the engine fires. I use a large set of tweezers and the open tube of grease, inserting first the spring into the tube and then setting in its location in the carb. Then the axle is dipped into the grease and inserted into the lever. Lastly, the top of the needle is greased and set in place into the lever. All ready to install, making sure to have the screw and magnetic screwdriver close at hand to install. I make sure the axle is offset more or less correctly to fit and in everything goes! Easy peasey, even for fumble fingers or sausage fingers! 🔧👍
Never thought of using grease…. Hmmm. Now my wheels are spinning. Thanks!
I always check the needle lever height prior to disassembly. If it’s correct then I don’t replace it with a new one that may require adjustment.
To check height I hold the carb and gauge up to a light and slide the gauge over the lever to see if the gauge stops against the lever or shows light in the gap.
I like to change the needle when the kit is decent quality. The lever is considered a “wear item” even though it’s minute so I just always checked after replacement. I will have to try your way next time
If a fuel line slides onto or off a nipple too easily then it’s probably time to replace all the fuel lines and the purge bulb. Might as well do it now than have a comeback a few months down the line. I always replace them all at the same time so I have a baseline for future work on the same engine.
Plus, it’s easier to diagnose when the black lines and UV/fuel-discolored purge bulb are replaced with ones that allow viewing of fuel flow.
I leave some extra length on the lines to make it easier to maneuver the carb into position, making sure the extra length doesn’t interfere with moving throttle and choke linkage rods. The extra length allows for cutting off an end in the future if necessary.
I Definitely agree with you
Very well done presentation
Thank you very much!