Thanks for the close up of snipping off the supports. As you demonstrated, I also found that snipping the supports off near the ring is best; especially for delicate pieces. If you snip the bottoms of the supports first, then they tend to put extra forces on the ring. I have to remember this each time since when I don't, my castable wax ring typically splits from those extra forces.
Thank you Doug! Excellent video! As someone who just got into 3D printing in the last 3 months I’m still experimenting with different resins as there is literally 100’s of brands/types! I’ll look into ordering this brand that you used and give it a go ! 👍
One of the better videos I've seen my question is if I make the burnout cast in previous day .... Time wise let it cool? For later date I can't seem to get answer if it's ok and can I reheat cast and what temp before pouring
It is not ideal to do a complete burnout, cool, and reheat it, but it is possible. If you have done a complete burnout, then just reheat the flask to casting temperature, 1000 degrees Fahrenheit for example, and let it sit at that temperature for 1-2 hours minimum, depending on the thickness of the flask, then cast. Hope this answers your question. Doug
Thank you Doug! You gave us really really helpful advice on how to cast resin with such perfect result. May I ask if you don’t mind, what is your chance of getting imperfect results like pits and porosity based on your own experiences? If you follow the exact procedure, do you always get such good results? Thanks,
There are so many variables when it comes to controlling pits and porosity in casting. Defect recognition is important, and you have to identify what the problem is. Are you dealing with pits, shrinkage porosity, gas porosity, or inclusions, etc? With porosity, the first is correct design principles that follow what is call directional solidification. Next is sprue size and placement, which is even more critical when it comes to resin casting. Another important thing to watch for is how the piece is attached to the sprue and to the tree base. Watch to make sure this is a clean union and there is no chance for pits, cracks, or bubbles that can catch small pieces of investment it the metal. Casting temps are also important depending on the volume of the piece. So I guess what I am saying is there is no “ exact procedure” for every piece, but there are principles that when followed will give you a higher success rate. Hope this helps. Doug
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk Thanks Doug! I am very new to lost wax casting, but I have heard many stories from people who struggled with pits and porosity problems. I totally agree with your comments that there are many variables that could cause the issue, and we need to examine carefully on them, and practice is the key. I will probably bother you again in future once I get some results. Still working on setting up my studio….
Hi Doug Fatima from libya Thank you for the video I was wondering how to attach a wax sprue to 3D printed resins And I got much more information thank expected Thankx
You’re amazing! It’s so nice of you to want to help others! I’ve come across so many people that Do not want to help others because then they will have more competition. It’s very sad because there’s enough room for everyone. How much do you think it would cost someone to purchase every thing they would need to start making small 3D printed silver charms and beads business if they had zero tools, machines, and products towards it and were absolute beginners with zero experience in the jewelry industry?’j
Nice Video very helpfull, How much time do you degas on the flask after the plaster is boiling? I have a some afreid that when is boiling it will let some gaps witout filled.
When vacuuming the air out, I mix for 3 minutes, vacuum the mixture for 3 minutes, and vacuum the mix in the flask for 3 minutes. Total of 9 minutes working time.
Thank you very much for this wonderful video, which explains important details in jewelry casting. I am making my attempts to cast jewelry, but I suffer from the problem of distortions in my jewelry and other cases where the metal does not reach all parts of the piece, knowing that complex pieces have been successful in design, more accurate, thickness and diameter less than that failed. There is another observation. Please note in the temperature table mentioned in the video that the oven temperature was lowered from 1350 to 1000 F. How is that, what is its purpose and the role of this decrease in the success of the work. As for the temperature that I used is at 1472 F for two hours, of course that is after Three hours passed before reaching this level. What do you advise me. If you have an e-mail or other means of communication, I can contact you to send you pictures of the pieces that worked for me and the ones that failed.
Hello Ayesh, the 1350 temp is to eliminate all the wax/resin residue completely. The 1000 is the flask temperature to cast the metal. (1350 is too high and will create gas pressure and gas porosity in the castings. Hope this helps. Doug
super helpful video! i was wondering why not just resin print the sprue straight onto the jewelry rather than add it on later? seems like it would be easier to add that into the design but would love to hear your thoughts!
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk Yes...I live in a condo right now, so I have nowhere to try casting, but one day I'll get around to it, so I bookmarked this video!
Great video! I'm just curious what flask temp you are casting at. I've used stuller's recommended settings for their casting grain which is between 800 and 1200F. I'm getting some surface porosity with my castings (mostly 14k white gold). I'm trying to see if my flask temp is too high. Thanks again!
It really depends on the pieces you are casting. Thin pieces I cast at 1050-1100, and heavy pieces I cast at 900-950. Normal pieces I stick around 1000 flask temp. there are a few types of porosity, but the majority of it is shrinkage porosity and it comes from the design and sprue placement more than flask temp in my experience.
After the investment has cured for a minimum of 1.5 hours, place the flask in the oven, ramp up to 1350 Fahrenheit at about 15 degrees per minute and let it sit at that temp for 2 hours. Then drop to casting temp. (I usually use 1000 degrees.) and let it sit at that temp for 1 to 1.5 hours, depending on the flask size. Larger flasks take longer to "stabilize". Then cast.
Hello congratulations on the very interesting video. After the burnout, do you immediately proceed to the casting of the metal? That's the one thing I couldn't figure out from the video
HI Doug very informativ and thank you for sharing. You were mentioning the curing and how important. With the B9 resin and using glycerin in a pyrex bowl. I have the Gesswein curing unit. How do you know when you have baked it enough to guarantee its cured for casting.
I would go with the manufacturer’s suggested curing time. The more mass of the piece, the longer the cure time. I “over-cure” my pieces just to be sure. It is hard to tell if they are properly cured, but after casting you can definitely tell if is was not cured enough.
good morning, I have a question for you: why do you use pouring on the vacuum pump if you don't put a direct hole on the main column? Is the plaster so porous that the pump can still create a vacuum of air inside it? founded way back in 94/2000 but I used the centrifugal slingshot and this is interesting to me. Thank you very much
Hello. Yes, the investment is porous enough to allow a bit of vacuum assistance through it. I add the straws as a channel for the vacuum to assist a bit more to the harder to fill places.
Great video. I bought some of the Emerald resin from B9. Do you have any info on printer settings? I have a MonoX and was hoping for some guidance on numbers to start testing (at the cost of these casting resins, I don't want to waste too much!).
Great work! I like how the casting turned out. I will try the straw and boric water methods. I am having problems with surface defects, I will contact my resin manufacturer and ask what is the best curing method. What resin did you use for this project?
Hi Doug, really informative video! Probably the most informative I've found so far on TH-cam. What is the boric acid supposed to do in the water? I see you noted that it makes the plaster extra hard but does that help with surface quality in your experience? Or does it mostly prevent cracking of the plaster? I have problems with both so I will definitely try it! You also said the curing is very important and that you tried a lot of different methods, I'm also going down the rabbit hole at the moment of trying different curing methods for my resin but not having success yet. Is just plane curing for a long time what you do now or is there more to it to completely cure the resin? I've read that oxygen inhibits curing and the surface that is in contact with air will often still not fully cure. Do you use any liquid or something for proper curing?
Hello and thanks for the great questions. First, the boric acid in the water strengthens the investment. I could put the powder in with the investment, but it wouldn’t mix consistently. Boric acid when heated, turns to a glaze. It is important to cure the resin fully, and the thicker the piece, the longer you need to cure it. I cure mine in a dish of water to keep the oxygen away. Hope this helps. Doug
Hello sir You're really doing a good job I have some questions are you dealing with any kind of porosity problems in Rp cast if not how do you get rid of it And secondly why do you dissolve boriac acid in water?
Porosity can usually be overcome with proper design and sprue (Gate) placement. Boric acid strengthens the investment during burnout, it adds a “glaze” effect when heated.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk Cheers. I am preparing to do some jewellery casting in the near future and youtube is a good source of the "how", but not necessarily the "Why".
OK, thank you very much. Can I bother you with a new question: is this process applicable for casting stainless steel? (no need to explain that am new in this process) tanks a lot for your help@@DougNapierJewelryMonk
Doug thanks, I am looking for a resin becouse right now I have to many problems with the resin ashes, so I would like to use the green from b9 what printer do you use and do you know the exposure time? your printer is a LCD printer? thanks
John, I will design the sprue in the design sometimes on smaller pieces, but there a couple of reasons I like to add them myself. 1 is because I "oversprue" resin pieces for casting, in other words, I will add 5-6 sprues at times to the piece, depending on the design. which helps with porosity and inclusions. The other reason is because of a philosophy I have about swelling of resin and having pressure releases during burnout..... I could be wrong, but it works for me. Doug
Hi, great video. Thanks. I am new on this. What investment are you using? I am using a normal one for cacinating 3D print. And having not good results.
Hi. I add about 1.5 to 2oz powdered boric acid to 1 gallon of warm water and let dissolve in water. I let the water sit till it is room temperature. Then I use this water to mix with the investment powder.
Do you happen to mix the two ounces of boric acid to a gallon of "distilled" water? Or do you use any gallon of water? I have heard that mixing investment with distilled or ionized water works best, I'm interested on your take. Does the boric acid take the need from distilled or ionized water? Also, love your videos!
Distilled water is a good idea, just so if you have issues in the castings, in troubleshooting, one of the variables can be eliminated (minerals in the water). I use regular tap water, and have never had issues. Doug
Thanks for the great video! One suggestion to help with the support cleanup on the part… you can change the contact shape of the support. I set it to a sphere. I can then snip supports right at the base and it leaves a small bump I can file down instead of a divot.
So u burn out the resin in the oven & that leaves the gap for the mold shape to pour into? Would this work in sand casting too? I don't have a vacuum chamber to do this way & I suck at carving the wax straight away.
Sometimes I do, but there are a couple of reasons I do not in a lot of cases. 1. I add several sprues to pieces and like to have the piece in my hand to really evaluate it. 2. Sometimes I like a wax sprue (or multiples) to release pressure from the "resin swell" that takes place.
Love the vids, thank you for your efforts! May i ask what is your preferred go-to investment is? Trial and error gets expensive and time consuming. I'm finding that UltraVest is fine until you need fine detail or lettering, I've ordered some PlastiCast to try and might consider Prestige Optima.
Hey Doug, I use Ultravest, and for the fine detail and lettering, I add "Boric Acid Water". I am not sure of the mixture, but I add about 2 oz. of POWDERED Boric Acid to 1 gallon of hot water, let it dissolve, then set aside and use it at room temperature. Hope this helps Doug
What investment are you using? I've had loads of problems getting the investment with the added borax to work. It seams that when the borax is added the investment becomes too thick to poor. If more water is added to allow the investment to poor the investment never seems to set up. Any suggestions?
Big difference between borax and powdered boric acid. Give it a try with the boric acid, I mix a couple ounces of powdered boric acid to a gallon of warm water to let it dissolve, then set it aside to cool to room temperature before I use it. Then mix that water with investment as per instructions.
Ayesh, I add about 2 ounces of powdered boric acid to 1 gallon of hot water, stir well, and let sit to room temp. Hope this helps. Then I use this water to mix with the investment.
Hello mr Napier thank you so much for sharing your wisdom. Thinking of starting my own jewelry gig this summer and I am really curious about the costs of silver casting. Do you have any idea how much it would cost to cast a silver ring per gram when you include all the expenses like the boric acid, powder, resin, silver, and all? I know its a hard question but I don't know who else to ask :D hopefully, it's under 1$ per gram of silver
That is a hard question, just the equipment to be able to cast can cost thousands of dollars. Taking the equipment out of the equation, the cost of investment, burnout, (electricity and/or gas) will be a constant, and whether you cost 1 piece or 20, that cost will be the same, so the more pieces you cast at one time, the better. Then the size of the piece will vary as well and affect the cost. For example, I would say the average size of a ring is 3-5 dwt (penny weight) and with silver at $25 per oz. ($1.25 per dwt) That would be $3.75 - $6.25 just in silver cost. Hope that helps.
Pablo, I can help, but need more info. Centrifugal or vacuum casting (or other) How are you melting your metal? Flask and metal temperature? Sprue size? Sprue location? Ring size? (Thickness or volume) Wax or 3D Printed Resin? All these things are important to know.
Yes, every metal has a specific gravity, which can easily be searched on the internet. For example, the difference in weight for silver is 10.4, 14ky is 13.07, etc.
When the wax is melted away from the oven, the holes you are seeing are the negative spaces from the wax sprues that are attached to the pieces. Hope that makes sense.
Sorry, I do not have an oven with a temperature of 1000 Celsius, but I have an oven with a temperature of 290 Celsius. How many hours do I need to melt the resin in my oven?
My boss please study with the boss, I'm trying to make a 2-inch flash casting, how many temperature measurements are needed. and how many hours, please boss can tell me
Really learned a lot on this one. I've just bought a 3D printer and am getting started so every bit helps. Thanks Doug
Good to hear Christopher. Good luck!
Thank you you just did the most thorough explanation of casting with resin that I have found. I appreciate you sir.
Darrell, you are so welcome. Glad I could help.
God bless you Doug for sharing this video of casting 🙏
My pleasure!
Doug
Depois de olhar milhares de vídeos esse é de longe o melhor resultado 👏👏👏
Gracias!
Thanks for the close up of snipping off the supports. As you demonstrated, I also found that snipping the supports off near the ring is best; especially for delicate pieces. If you snip the bottoms of the supports first, then they tend to put extra forces on the ring. I have to remember this each time since when I don't, my castable wax ring typically splits from those extra forces.
This video really came at the right time’ god bless you Doug’
You are so welcome.
Thank you. You are good teacher.
Thank you Greg. It is something I enjoy and try to get better at all the time.
Agreed, great teaching and detail
This was a great overview...great tips on casting straws
Thanks Norman.
Thank you just curious about how to make jewelry I haven't made a decision yet
Nice video ❤
Thank you.
Thank you Doug! Excellent video! As someone who just got into 3D printing in the last 3 months I’m still experimenting with different resins as there is literally 100’s of brands/types! I’ll look into ordering this brand that you used and give it a go ! 👍
Keep me updated. Curious to hear your results.
Thank you for sharing your experiences
You are welcome.
One of the better videos I've seen my question is if I make the burnout cast in previous day .... Time wise let it cool? For later date
I can't seem to get answer if it's ok and can I reheat cast and what temp before pouring
It is not ideal to do a complete burnout, cool, and reheat it, but it is possible. If you have done a complete burnout, then just reheat the flask to casting temperature, 1000 degrees Fahrenheit for example, and let it sit at that temperature for 1-2 hours minimum, depending on the thickness of the flask, then cast. Hope this answers your question. Doug
Thanks for recording and sharing this
It really is my pleasure.
Just at the start of my casting journey and I believe your guidance will help tremendously, thank you 👍😊
Welcome and enjoy.
Thank you Doug! You gave us really really helpful advice on how to cast resin with such perfect result. May I ask if you don’t mind, what is your chance of getting imperfect results like pits and porosity based on your own experiences? If you follow the exact procedure, do you always get such good results? Thanks,
There are so many variables when it comes to controlling pits and porosity in casting. Defect recognition is important, and you have to identify what the problem is. Are you dealing with pits, shrinkage porosity, gas porosity, or inclusions, etc?
With porosity, the first is correct design principles that follow what is call directional solidification. Next is sprue size and placement, which is even more critical when it comes to resin casting. Another important thing to watch for is how the piece is attached to the sprue and to the tree base. Watch to make sure this is a clean union and there is no chance for pits, cracks, or bubbles that can catch small pieces of investment it the metal. Casting temps are also important depending on the volume of the piece. So I guess what I am saying is there is no “ exact procedure” for every piece, but there are principles that when followed will give you a higher success rate.
Hope this helps.
Doug
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk Thanks Doug! I am very new to lost wax casting, but I have heard many stories from people who struggled with pits and porosity problems. I totally agree with your comments that there are many variables that could cause the issue, and we need to examine carefully on them, and practice is the key. I will probably bother you again in future once I get some results. Still working on setting up my studio….
Enjoyed this video. Very informative. It helped me.
You are so welcome.
This is good
Thank you.
Hi Doug
Fatima from libya
Thank you for the video
I was wondering how to attach a wax sprue to 3D printed resins
And I got much more information thank expected
Thankx
Hello. I use what is called "sticky wax" it adheres very well, and then I attach the wax sprue to the sticky wax.
Great video,
Thank you
Gracias voy a ser mi primer vaciado en resina gracias muy bien esplicado
de nada
Thanks Doug
My Pleasure
Excellent video!
Thank you
excellent video, please keep educating, i liked a lots👍
You’re amazing! It’s so nice of you to want to help others! I’ve come across so many people that Do not want to help others because then they will have more competition. It’s very sad because there’s enough room for everyone. How much do you think it would cost someone to purchase every thing they would need to start making small 3D printed silver charms and beads business if they had zero tools, machines, and products towards it and were absolute beginners with zero experience in the jewelry industry?’j
id say maybe 2500
@@BigBackFitness404 thank you so much! That’s really not a bad amount to invest in starting a new business
Looks like fun, thanks for sharing!!!🏹
Thanks im new to casting so this was very informative.speak soon
Nice Video very helpfull, How much time do you degas on the flask after the plaster is boiling? I have a some afreid that when is boiling it will let some gaps witout filled.
When vacuuming the air out, I mix for 3 minutes, vacuum the mixture for 3 minutes, and vacuum the mix in the flask for 3 minutes. Total of 9 minutes working time.
Thank you very much for this wonderful video, which explains important details in jewelry casting. I am making my attempts to cast jewelry, but I suffer from the problem of distortions in my jewelry and other cases where the metal does not reach all parts of the piece, knowing that complex pieces have been successful in design, more accurate, thickness and diameter less than that failed.
There is another observation. Please note in the temperature table mentioned in the video that the oven temperature was lowered from 1350 to 1000 F. How is that, what is its purpose and the role of this decrease in the success of the work. As for the temperature that I used is at 1472 F for two hours, of course that is after Three hours passed before reaching this level. What do you advise me. If you have an e-mail or other means of communication, I can contact you to send you pictures of the pieces that worked for me and the ones that failed.
Hello Ayesh, the 1350 temp is to eliminate all the wax/resin residue completely. The 1000 is the flask temperature to cast the metal. (1350 is too high and will create gas pressure and gas porosity in the castings. Hope this helps.
Doug
Thank you Doug for sharing your knowledge
super helpful video! i was wondering why not just resin print the sprue straight onto the jewelry rather than add it on later? seems like it would be easier to add that into the design but would love to hear your thoughts!
Thanks, many times I do, but other times I like to see how the piece is without extra sprues.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk i guess you’ll end up with a nice ring either way, thanks for the response
Great video! very informative. Thank you
Thank you, I hope you found some useful info.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk Yes...I live in a condo right now, so I have nowhere to try casting, but one day I'll get around to it, so I bookmarked this video!
Thanks for the great video very helpful
It is my pleasure.
Thank you for this informative video. Question what is burnout temperature that you set the oven?
I use a couple burn out schedules, but the highest temp is 1350f and the casting temp is usually 1000f
Thank you 😊
Nice explanation, many thanks.
My pleasure
Great video 👍
Thank you!
This is awesome thank you for sharing!
You are welcome.
Thanks for sharing!
my pleasure.
Love the video! Thank you for making it and sharing.
You are very welcome.
Great video! I'm just curious what flask temp you are casting at. I've used stuller's recommended settings for their casting grain which is between 800 and 1200F. I'm getting some surface porosity with my castings (mostly 14k white gold). I'm trying to see if my flask temp is too high. Thanks again!
It really depends on the pieces you are casting. Thin pieces I cast at 1050-1100, and heavy pieces I cast at 900-950. Normal pieces I stick around 1000 flask temp. there are a few types of porosity, but the majority of it is shrinkage porosity and it comes from the design and sprue placement more than flask temp in my experience.
I had a quick question. what do you consider a heavy piece when using gold?
@@mrmartins7900 maybe 2mm thick or more.
Hello Justin shuman do you get rid of porosity in casting?
Thanks for the great info - Greg in tulsa, ok
You are welcome Greg! How have you been?
Can i have further information about the 5/6 hours bornout schedule? Thanks!
After the investment has cured for a minimum of 1.5 hours, place the flask in the oven, ramp up to 1350 Fahrenheit at about 15 degrees per minute and let it sit at that temp for 2 hours. Then drop to casting temp. (I usually use 1000 degrees.) and let it sit at that temp for 1 to 1.5 hours, depending on the flask size. Larger flasks take longer to "stabilize". Then cast.
Can you tell me sir the burn out such small flask in celsius.thanks a lot
Hello congratulations on the very interesting video.
After the burnout, do you immediately proceed to the casting of the metal?
That's the one thing I couldn't figure out from the video
Yes I do.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk thanks for the reply
Very Helpful video. Thank you Doug. Have you ever tried to cast with gemstone installed?
Yes I have, little different process, but have had much success.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk would like to know about that. Thank you Doug for simple and useful videos good luck
HI Doug very informativ and thank you for sharing. You were mentioning the curing and how important. With the B9 resin and using glycerin in a pyrex bowl. I have the Gesswein curing unit. How do you know when you
have baked it enough to guarantee its cured for casting.
I would go with the manufacturer’s suggested curing time. The more mass of the piece, the longer the cure time. I “over-cure” my pieces just to be sure. It is hard to tell if they are properly cured, but after casting you can definitely tell if is was not cured enough.
If it's not too much to ask, could you please demonstrate how to make a gold grillz with this method.
I have never done grillz. Sorry, no help.
good morning, I have a question for you: why do you use pouring on the vacuum pump if you don't put a direct hole on the main column? Is the plaster so porous that the pump can still create a vacuum of air inside it? founded way back in 94/2000 but I used the centrifugal slingshot and this is interesting to me. Thank you very much
Hello. Yes, the investment is porous enough to allow a bit of vacuum assistance through it. I add the straws as a channel for the vacuum to assist a bit more to the harder to fill places.
Great video. I bought some of the Emerald resin from B9. Do you have any info on printer settings? I have a MonoX and was hoping for some guidance on numbers to start testing (at the cost of these casting resins, I don't want to waste too much!).
Sorry Kevin, I have a B9 machine, and it is all set up internally.
Great work! I like how the casting turned out. I will try the straw and boric water methods. I am having problems with surface defects, I will contact my resin manufacturer and ask what is the best curing method. What resin did you use for this project?
I use B9Creations Emerald resin.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk thanks for the reply! I just realized it was in the the title lol
What is the boric water
How can we mede it
Hi Doug, really informative video! Probably the most informative I've found so far on TH-cam. What is the boric acid supposed to do in the water? I see you noted that it makes the plaster extra hard but does that help with surface quality in your experience? Or does it mostly prevent cracking of the plaster? I have problems with both so I will definitely try it!
You also said the curing is very important and that you tried a lot of different methods, I'm also going down the rabbit hole at the moment of trying different curing methods for my resin but not having success yet. Is just plane curing for a long time what you do now or is there more to it to completely cure the resin? I've read that oxygen inhibits curing and the surface that is in contact with air will often still not fully cure. Do you use any liquid or something for proper curing?
Hello and thanks for the great questions. First, the boric acid in the water strengthens the investment. I could put the powder in with the investment, but it wouldn’t mix consistently. Boric acid when heated, turns to a glaze.
It is important to cure the resin fully, and the thicker the piece, the longer you need to cure it. I cure mine in a dish of water to keep the oxygen away.
Hope this helps.
Doug
hello, thanks for the video. Will you give me the % of boric acid to mix with the water? That sure helps a lot. Thanks
Thank you!
Lionel, you are welcome!
Doug
This is cool but taking my 3D prints to the district is such a lifesaver.
Which district, what city ?
Yo 👀 so you just take your prints and they make the molds ?
Great video, very informative. What printer do you use?
Hey Freddy, I use a B9Creations printer from B9C.com
Thank you for sharing!!!
My pleasure.
using the straws is a substitute for not having a ported flask?
Exactly, more vacuum assist to get the draw closer to the harder to fill areas.
Hello sir
You're really doing a good job
I have some questions
are you dealing with any kind of porosity problems in Rp cast if not how do you get rid of it
And secondly why do you dissolve boriac acid in water?
Porosity can usually be overcome with proper design and sprue (Gate) placement.
Boric acid strengthens the investment during burnout, it adds a “glaze” effect when heated.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk what do you mean by sprue (gate) please define
Helping me find the right equipment?
Would it be beneficial to 3d print the sprue to save the effort of making and attaching later?
Yes, I do that quite a bit.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk Is there a reason why you sometimes do it and sometimes not, or was this just for showing extra techniques for the viewer?
@@Miketz Sometimes I am forward thinking enough to plan out the sprue configuration, but most times I just do it at the bench.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk Cheers. I am preparing to do some jewellery casting in the near future and youtube is a good source of the "how", but not necessarily the "Why".
hello, thanks for the video. Will you give me the % of boric acid to mix with the water? That sure helps a lot. Thanks
Luis, I mix 2 oz of powdered boric acid to 1 gallon of warm water. (After it dissolves, I set it aside to cool to room temp before use.
OK, thank you very much. Can I bother you with a new question: is this process applicable for casting stainless steel? (no need to explain that am new in this process) tanks a lot for your help@@DougNapierJewelryMonk
Not sure. I have never cast steel.
What do you mean about cure or curing that you mentioned in the end of the video ? Thanks
Resins from 3D printing need to be cured, or completely hardened from the growing process. UV lights are what cures the resin completely.
Doug thanks, I am looking for a resin becouse right now I have to many problems with the resin ashes, so I would like to use the green from b9 what printer do you use and do you know the exposure time? your printer is a LCD printer? thanks
The Printer I have is a B9 printer which works off of high intensity UV lighting.
Hola té faltó hacer bien el vacío con el investmento para eliminar las burbujas y evitar las bolitas que salieron
I usually print my pieces including the sprue what is your opinion on that?
John, I will design the sprue in the design sometimes on smaller pieces, but there a couple of reasons I like to add them myself.
1 is because I "oversprue" resin pieces for casting, in other words, I will add 5-6 sprues at times to the piece, depending on the design. which helps with porosity and inclusions.
The other reason is because of a philosophy I have about swelling of resin and having pressure releases during burnout..... I could be wrong, but it works for me.
Doug
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk thank you
Hi, great video. Thanks. I am new on this. What investment are you using? I am using a normal one for cacinating 3D print. And having not good results.
Hello, I am using Satin Cast 20
thank you
Thank you for sharing, the straw idea is great.
But why are you using boric acid.
To harden the investment?
It strengthens the investment and keeps the fine areas in the design from breaking.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk thank you very much doug.
thanks nice work
You are welcome.
Which type of torch you are using? Hydrogen, oxygen?
Here I am using Propane/Oxygen.
12:26 ... Do you use a mixture of boric acid and water mixed with plaster? What is its rate? .... How do you mix water and acid?. Thank you
Hi. I add about 1.5 to 2oz powdered boric acid to 1 gallon of warm water and let dissolve in water. I let the water sit till it is room temperature. Then I use this water to mix with the investment powder.
Do you happen to mix the two ounces of boric acid to a gallon of "distilled" water? Or do you use any gallon of water? I have heard that mixing investment with distilled or ionized water works best, I'm interested on your take. Does the boric acid take the need from distilled or ionized water?
Also, love your videos!
Distilled water is a good idea, just so if you have issues in the castings, in troubleshooting, one of the variables can be eliminated (minerals in the water). I use regular tap water, and have never had issues.
Doug
Hello can you please tell us why you used water diluted with boric acid?
It strengthens the investment.
Hey, curious to know how and when you know the amount of metal that is needed is right?
Depends on the metal you are using. There are calculations used for different metals.
Thanks for the great video! One suggestion to help with the support cleanup on the part… you can change the contact shape of the support. I set it to a sphere. I can then snip supports right at the base and it leaves a small bump I can file down instead of a divot.
Thanks Matt. I will try that.
So u burn out the resin in the oven & that leaves the gap for the mold shape to pour into? Would this work in sand casting too? I don't have a vacuum chamber to do this way & I suck at carving the wax straight away.
Yes, it will work in sand casting, but the designs are limited do to the constraints of sand casting. (straight walls and no undercuts)
Hi Doug 👋 quick question: why not just print the sprues too?
Sometimes I do, but there are a couple of reasons I do not in a lot of cases. 1. I add several sprues to pieces and like to have the piece in my hand to really evaluate it. 2. Sometimes I like a wax sprue (or multiples) to release pressure from the "resin swell" that takes place.
YOU might be the 1ST to do so. Haven't found a video yet
Love the vids, thank you for your efforts! May i ask what is your preferred go-to investment is? Trial and error gets expensive and time consuming. I'm finding that UltraVest is fine until you need fine detail or lettering, I've ordered some PlastiCast to try and might consider Prestige Optima.
Hey Doug, I use Ultravest, and for the fine detail and lettering, I add "Boric Acid Water". I am not sure of the mixture, but I add about 2 oz. of POWDERED Boric Acid to 1 gallon of hot water, let it dissolve, then set aside and use it at room temperature.
Hope this helps
Doug
What investment are you using? I've had loads of problems getting the investment with the added borax to work. It seams that when the borax is added the investment becomes too thick to poor. If more water is added to allow the investment to poor the investment never seems to set up. Any suggestions?
I use ultra vest.
I don’t add borax, but powdered boric acid to the water.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk I thought borax was just boric acid.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk Thanks! Your video was super helpful!
Big difference between borax and powdered boric acid. Give it a try with the boric acid, I mix a couple ounces of powdered boric acid to a gallon of warm water to let it dissolve, then set it aside to cool to room temperature before I use it. Then mix that water with investment as per instructions.
Hello Doug
I wanted to know how much of this boric liquid I would add to my
Powder and water mixture
Ayesh, I add about 2 ounces of powdered boric acid to 1 gallon of hot water, stir well, and let sit to room temp. Hope this helps. Then I use this water to mix with the investment.
Dear sir what if I cast at flask temperature 1350f.....will I get best results or poor porosity
yes. too hot.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk is it good to cast at 1350f sir will I get good results :(
Hello mr Napier thank you so much for sharing your wisdom. Thinking of starting my own jewelry gig this summer and I am really curious about the costs of silver casting. Do you have any idea how much it would cost to cast a silver ring per gram when you include all the expenses like the boric acid, powder, resin, silver, and all? I know its a hard question but I don't know who else to ask :D hopefully, it's under 1$ per gram of silver
That is a hard question, just the equipment to be able to cast can cost thousands of dollars.
Taking the equipment out of the equation, the cost of investment, burnout, (electricity and/or gas) will be a constant, and whether you cost 1 piece or 20, that cost will be the same, so the more pieces you cast at one time, the better. Then the size of the piece will vary as well and affect the cost. For example, I would say the average size of a ring is 3-5 dwt (penny weight) and with silver at $25 per oz. ($1.25 per dwt) That would be $3.75 - $6.25 just in silver cost.
Hope that helps.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk thanks a lot for the answer your videos are great!
Why not 3d print the whole thing including the red bits?
How's it Doug, I keep getting a messed up cast. Sometimes it will come out half the ring or just the base. Any suggestions?
Pablo, I can help, but need more info.
Centrifugal or vacuum casting (or other)
How are you melting your metal?
Flask and metal temperature?
Sprue size?
Sprue location?
Ring size? (Thickness or volume)
Wax or 3D Printed Resin?
All these things are important to know.
hi doug can i make rtv silicone mold with a ring of this resin ? Waiting for your answer sir
I have had success doing it.
What is the formula you used to determine metal weight by weighing the wax model? Different formulas for gold and silver.
Yes, every metal has a specific gravity, which can easily be searched on the internet. For example, the difference in weight for silver is 10.4, 14ky is 13.07, etc.
Hello there! Can you suggest of any other way of burn out because i don't have an oven of that sort. Thanks
Sorry, I know of no other way.
thats cool gyde
Thanks
What printer did you print it with?
I use a B9Creator
I have no idea how those four holes just magically appeared for you to pour the metal into, I cant find where or when in the video those were created?
When the wax is melted away from the oven, the holes you are seeing are the negative spaces from the wax sprues that are attached to the pieces. Hope that makes sense.
Thanks 😊👍🏼 God bless
Could this resin method be used to make gold grillzs
Yes it can.
Thanks for the reply.
It is excilent but I want to know is this the only way to cast the metal
Check out sand casting.
For how long do you leave the mold to rest after casting before putting it into the water?
Depends on the size of the flask, but I usually wait until the metal does not glow anymore. 10-20 minutes
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk Thank you!
@@andreimacarov6522 you are welcome.
Does the resin burn out leaving a solid piece weight wise ?
The resin burns out leaving a cavity, and molten metal is poured into the cavity to make the piece.
and just like that, i now realise i bought a Devil Forge but completely did not think about the burnout cycles...electric furnace here we come.
Sorry, I do not have an oven with a temperature of 1000 Celsius, but I have an oven with a temperature of 290 Celsius. How many hours do I need to melt the resin in my oven?
My boss please study with the boss, I'm trying to make a 2-inch flash casting, how many temperature measurements are needed. and how many hours, please boss can tell me
Hello how many Liters of your vacuum pump?
No idea.
Thanks a lot
You are so welcome.