brilliant fella, loved it, busted back means i can't restore classic cars anymore but black smithing i can do sat down, just got myself a 4 ton fly and i love it, keep up the good work
@@phoenixforge5944 I think I see how to do this -- if you have a raised point that just hooks under the bottle-cap,, as you press down will probably peal it back like using a hand held (lever) opener... If you try this, send me a ping for the video ;-)
This was a nice little video explanation, I'm a hobbyist knife maker and was looking at converting a pneumatic log splitter into a forge press but I've recently seen these and wondered what the minimum size I would need for my knives (At most my billets are only 2" thick but I'm clueless regarding what I'd need), all the best from here in Yorkshire matey.
Thank you very much for that very informative video! Your way of explaining things is very easy to understand and concise. All the best to you and I wish you lots of success!
I enjoyed this and got a few good ideas from it. You mentioned you have a bar press. I have a Sweeney and Blocksidge bar press - probably #4. I would love to see a video specific to the bar style. I haven't found much about them.
Would love one Will, been looking a few years but here in OZ about as common as bagged rocking horse manure! Have an arbor press, but is like comparing boiled sweets to chocolates!
Dear Will, thanks for your informative video. I am looking at a couple of fly presses at auction and was hoping to pick your brains. The bigger of the two is a twin column fly press, meaning that the front is filled with one half of the support column. As a blacksmith, would this be at all useful or should I look for an open-fronted fly press instead. The big advantage of this one is that nobody else seems to be interested and it looks like it will go very cheaply. Thanks.
In my dumpster dives a machinest shop had to toss 2 28" ball screws that still work just not for +/-.0005" machining and I want to try and make a diy fly press from one. You think that would work?
Looking to get a #3 flypress as I dont want or need to move the sort of stock you do and also I have just (literally made one hand forged dirk) started . The reasoning is lack of energy to use a hammer for long enough and cost fore a newbie like me but still make hobby stuff. OK I intend to make throwing knives (mostly from farrier rasps = theoretically easier than full forging from a billet) as I do a lot of that including teaching. Why comment here - question do you have any experience of different makes that would turn your eye to buying over another? I have a choice of a Denbigh or a Besco F J Edwards both #3s One is cleaner and looks from pictures Cleaner but both same price
Need for a fly press intensifies.... Absolutely the #1 thing I need in my life right now :'( Cheers for answering the question of what number fly press is the minimum advised for forging! A number 4! I'll be going for one as soon as I can scrape together the cash. I'm absolutely dreading moving the beast into the workshop without access for an FLT though, but I'll find a way!
@@phoenixforge5944 Aye, I think it'll have to be done that way. The ground outside my forge is really rough though, big stoney gravel & the door is narrow. So will be some effort to get it in, but it must be done and I'll find a way! The hoist will be handy for other things down the line, so not a bad thing to pickup in the long run anyway!
@@davosfirebeard4495 have a word with the local locksmith and see if he's got details for a specialist safe moving company. Those guys deal with weights like this every day - alternatively spend 30 years down the pit and you'll learn how to move and lift anything with no specialist tools, but a lot of cunning ;
Can I ask how you have your bottom dies set up? My press doesn't have a bottom block and I'm a little confused about how to set up interchangeable bottom dies/jigs?
you might have a bar press? On most fly presses there is a removable disc which allows you to punch and drift, but mostly there are t slots that allow me to bolt my bottom tooling down to the base
Thanks for your reply! I believe mine's a number 6, though it came with no disc and the bore in the tool holder is a massive 50mm diameter which I'm having trouble finding/making an adaptor for.
How do you get these huge items and things like super heavy anvils into the shop? lol I’m sure ppl gonna say by being a man lol but seriously though. Do you use like a lift or something to get these extra heavy items into position in the shop
Fella that sold me my press lost his eye using it. He was setting up punch tooling, but not yet not lined up and locked off. Came back from a few lunchtime beers at the boozer, forgot the bottom tool wasn't set , took an almighty swing and met a big chip of tool steel travelling at 150 mph .... Great tool, but take care !
brilliant fella, loved it, busted back means i can't restore classic cars anymore but black smithing i can do sat down, just got myself a 4 ton fly and i love it, keep up the good work
LMAO: looking for a french translation for fly press: "presse à mouche", literally "press to smash flies". Very nice tool
Nice introduction. I love my #8!
Number 8 ....how much tons it is ?
can you open a beer with it? LOL love the video
I accept your challenge 😜
@@phoenixforge5944 I think I see how to do this -- if you have a raised point that just hooks under the bottle-cap,, as you press down will probably peal it back like using a hand held (lever) opener... If you try this, send me a ping for the video ;-)
Great and useful tool nice video.
This was a nice little video explanation, I'm a hobbyist knife maker and was looking at converting a pneumatic log splitter into a forge press but I've recently seen these and wondered what the minimum size I would need for my knives (At most my billets are only 2" thick but I'm clueless regarding what I'd need), all the best from here in Yorkshire matey.
Cool! can't wait! I just picked up #6 Norton Deep neck! so excited!
Very beautiful tool. Hopefully u get great use out of it. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge on. Keep making. God bless.
Thank you very much for that very informative video! Your way of explaining things is very easy to understand and concise. All the best to you and I wish you lots of success!
Very cool... Thanx for all the info :)
Another Great video! Keep up the informative and entertaining content!
im going to get one but definitely going to put a bit of pool noodle or pipe insulation at head level on the arm
thank you for your enjoyable videos always very informative and just plain fun to watch.
I enjoyed this and got a few good ideas from it. You mentioned you have a bar press. I have a Sweeney and Blocksidge bar press - probably #4. I would love to see a video specific to the bar style. I haven't found much about them.
I like that
Great vid, do you have some information where to find second hand presses in Europe?
интересный пресс 👍
Great video!
Actually I am looking for how did they manage to forge the frame of the colt walker, such a tool could be the solution.
Nice video. What make and model do you have? That looks like it might be a Norton #6? I think the #8 has a wider hole for a part/tool "stripper".
Could you tell me what the rectangle pass through hole in the back of the casting is used for? And how it’s used?
would they have used a fly press to make flat ring chainmail?
Would love one Will, been looking a few years but here in OZ about as common as bagged rocking horse manure! Have an arbor press, but is like comparing boiled sweets to chocolates!
Gap in the market by the sounds of things
theyre around.
mines "ap lever, mascot, sydney"...
could have strangled my mate when he donated his twin column to the local mens shed... was a beast.
I rely like this video! How big should the press be to be able to drift a ax eye for example? :)
Dear Will, thanks for your informative video. I am looking at a couple of fly presses at auction and was hoping to pick your brains. The bigger of the two is a twin column fly press, meaning that the front is filled with one half of the support column. As a blacksmith, would this be at all useful or should I look for an open-fronted fly press instead. The big advantage of this one is that nobody else seems to be interested and it looks like it will go very cheaply. Thanks.
but how many tons do a nr 6 do?
In my dumpster dives a machinest shop had to toss 2 28" ball screws that still work just not for +/-.0005" machining and I want to try and make a diy fly press from one. You think that would work?
Looking to get a #3 flypress as I dont want or need to move the sort of stock you do and also I have just (literally made one hand forged dirk) started . The reasoning is lack of energy to use a hammer for long enough and cost fore a newbie like me but still make hobby stuff. OK I intend to make throwing knives (mostly from farrier rasps = theoretically easier than full forging from a billet) as I do a lot of that including teaching. Why comment here - question do you have any experience of different makes that would turn your eye to buying over another? I have a choice of a Denbigh or a Besco F J Edwards both #3s
One is cleaner and looks from pictures Cleaner but both same price
Need for a fly press intensifies.... Absolutely the #1 thing I need in my life right now :'( Cheers for answering the question of what number fly press is the minimum advised for forging! A number 4! I'll be going for one as soon as I can scrape together the cash. I'm absolutely dreading moving the beast into the workshop without access for an FLT though, but I'll find a way!
They can be a little on the heavy side, an engine hoist is a great way to move them about
@@phoenixforge5944 Aye, I think it'll have to be done that way. The ground outside my forge is really rough though, big stoney gravel & the door is narrow. So will be some effort to get it in, but it must be done and I'll find a way! The hoist will be handy for other things down the line, so not a bad thing to pickup in the long run anyway!
@@davosfirebeard4495
have a word with the local locksmith and see if he's got details for a specialist safe moving company. Those guys deal with weights like this every day - alternatively spend 30 years down the pit and you'll learn how to move and lift anything with no specialist tools, but a lot of cunning ;
Where did you get your makers stamp made
M Shaw engraving. He's bloody good made several for me over the years
Can I ask how you have your bottom dies set up? My press doesn't have a bottom block and I'm a little confused about how to set up interchangeable bottom dies/jigs?
you might have a bar press? On most fly presses there is a removable disc which allows you to punch and drift, but mostly there are t slots that allow me to bolt my bottom tooling down to the base
Thanks for your reply! I believe mine's a number 6, though it came with no disc and the bore in the tool holder is a massive 50mm diameter which I'm having trouble finding/making an adaptor for.
Where the heck can you find one of those for a couple hundred dollars??? 😁
How do you get these huge items and things like super heavy anvils into the shop? lol I’m sure ppl gonna say by being a man lol but seriously though. Do you use like a lift or something to get these extra heavy items into position in the shop
👍✌️
Be honest, how often have you whacked yout head in that swinging handle! 😆
Me never I'm short, my last apprentice did K.O himself with it tho
Fella that sold me my press lost his eye using it. He was setting up punch tooling, but not yet not lined up and locked off. Came back from a few lunchtime beers at the boozer, forgot the bottom tool wasn't set , took an almighty swing and met a big chip of tool steel travelling at 150 mph .... Great tool, but take care !
Oh hell, a new tool…. My honey doesn’t have to know…