In the past I made two car models and both have orange peel. I only applied fine compound, without sanding. I'm afraid of using sandpaper and ruining the paint. I'm doing my third and first time using an airbrush. The painting had some imperfections, I was used to sprays. I have exactly the sandpaper shown in this video and I will use it with confidence to repair the painting. Then i will apply clear coat and polish like you show here. Thank you for the video and teachings. Keep up the good work!
thank you!!😊 I'm glad this video is useful.. orange peel and some defect of surface are commonly seen in the spray painting process,for me,they are inevitable...after sanding and polishing,most of them will be fixed.. just sanding very gently and careful.. cheers!!👍
Thanks for sharing your process, I know I have seen it in build videos but there are a few details here I am not sure I had picked up on before. Also, thank you for demonstrating the different directions with the compound, I am currently building a black car and can’t seem to get the fine scratches to go away - I will be going back with your process and feel confident those scratches will finally be gone.
thank you!!😊 there are always minor scratches during polishing..most of them will be vanish after polishing.. if the scratches are too deep...I got two choices.. resanding all the way or....just let it be and moving on...😄 wish this video is useful for you.. cheers!!👍
Hi, great video tutorial. Are these rules and dilutions, for better or worse, valid for both airbrushes and the three clear paints? Or for example a 0.5 is better suited to Auto Clear, as you use in the video? Furthermore, why don't you polish with circular movements, but linear ones? What would happen? Is this true for all polishes even real car polishes? I recommend you try the clear 2K SNP. I got better results than others on the market for modeling. Thank you!
thank you my friend😊 There is no fixed rule for dilution ratios. I'm just showing my usual dilution ratio.I think this thining ratio suitable for most lacquer paints..0.5mm airbrush speed up the painting proces.. I think multi-directional linear polishing is easier to control than circular polishing..and ccording to my experience...it’s less likely to be over-polished..of course,this is the method that works for me. I've tried 2K clear ..indeed it's very shiney...I'm just not used to the thickness and greasy feeling of its paint film.as described in my video..my skill is not good enough for 2K clear.. I will definitely try 2K clear in future..😊 cheers!!
Awesome tips, thanks a lot. Question about Finisher's Auto Clear (Finisher's in general), is it possible to thin them with Mr. Hobby Leveling Thinner or do they require Finisher's thinner?
hi,yes,it could be thin with Mr.hobby leveling thinner..and all finisher's lacquer paint could be thin with Mr.hobby thinner... I've tried it before,however,just in my opnion..I feel it got a little bit better result by thinning with finisher's "pure thinner"..after sanding and polishing...there is almost no difference in the results.. I can barely get finisher's thinner now...so I use Mr.hobby thinner most time..
Hi Mr. Lin, as usual I got a question for you: I already bought all three compounds from tamiya. I know those tri-color tamiya compound applicators are dedicated for it. Do they really make the difference or are they cash grab and you can apply with any cloth with the same result? Edit: also, on which step you recommend to add decals? After first clear coat?
i used them also before, but now i use meguiere products from amazon and i am getting the results. Depends how much your are building, the same as with the clearcoats, i used zero paints diamond 2k, gavity clear 2k, that stinks a lot,now i bought 1,5 litre automotive clearcoat for a fraction of the price. but again,how much you build.
hi,I think tamiya compounds are quite handy..especially the "finishing" one..I just don't like its packaging..it always cracks...😂 about the applicators..I feel the fiber of these cloth just fit for apply compound and polishing..I've tried various fabrics and still back to use these applicators ... I often apply decal before clear coat..the first condition is that the surface must be smooth..if not, a clear coat would help with decal adhesion.. cheers!! 😊
@@MRLINSSCALEMODELING alright I'm gonna trust your experience and get that tamiya cloth. I recently purchased tweezers from both, Revell and Tamiya, and the Tamiya ones are on whole different, higher level. I guess they really are one of the top tier companies :)
@@MRLINSSCALEMODELING Very true Master. I was a decent builder before i watched your video,s. But just only by watching them and paying a bit more attention i have learned a lot from you . And this how to do video is a must for every builder who like to improve his work. Even me and my wife are pleasantly surprised how much better i am getting since the 2 years i am watching your video,s. And when i can reach your level step by step in 3 years more,i am over the moon to reach your level of kit building. The applicators from Tamiya are not my thing to be honest. And the clear after the decals makes the end result 100% better. Then the car looks like a real car and not as a cheap toy with stickers.
thank you my friend!!😄I'm glad to hear that.. to be honest, I can't be called a "master"...Just try to be a little more refined every time when I build a model..😅 try to share my experience and results from videos...which I get a lot of happiness and inspiration from it.. Anyway..I'm glad my video is helpful for model builders...and your support keeps me carry on!!!👍
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In the past I made two car models and both have orange peel. I only applied fine compound, without sanding. I'm afraid of using sandpaper and ruining the paint. I'm doing my third and first time using an airbrush. The painting had some imperfections, I was used to sprays. I have exactly the sandpaper shown in this video and I will use it with confidence to repair the painting. Then i will apply clear coat and polish like you show here. Thank you for the video and teachings. Keep up the good work!
thank you!!😊
I'm glad this video is useful..
orange peel and some defect of surface are commonly seen in the spray painting process,for me,they are inevitable...after sanding and polishing,most of them will be fixed..
just sanding very gently and careful..
cheers!!👍
Very nice tutorial. I watch as many videos on this aspect of modeling, and I always pick up something. Thanks for sharing.
thank you!! wish my video is useful..😊
Great guide sir. I am glad you demonstrated your process on the hardest color, black.
thank you!!😊
the color black is very tricky for me..
the result maybe not perfect,but I'm pretty happy with that.
wish my video is useful..
cheers!!👍
Great video. Thanks for sharing
thank you!!😊
Thank you for sharing! It seems so simple but you have really mastered it, the result is stunning. I will try your techniques next time!
thank you my friend..
wish this video is useful for you!!😊
Thanks for sharing your process, I know I have seen it in build videos but there are a few details here I am not sure I had picked up on before.
Also, thank you for demonstrating the different directions with the compound, I am currently building a black car and can’t seem to get the fine scratches to go away - I will be going back with your process and feel confident those scratches will finally be gone.
thank you!!😊
there are always minor scratches during polishing..most of them will be vanish after polishing..
if the scratches are too deep...I got two choices.. resanding all the way or....just let it be and moving on...😄
wish this video is useful for you..
cheers!!👍
Danke für diese tollen Tipps,,,das hat mir sehr geholfen👍👍👍
Vielen Dank😊
Thanks for sharing.
thank you!!😊
Thanks for sharing ! I will try it on my next car project.
thank you!!
hope this demo could be some helpful..😊
Hi, great video tutorial. Are these rules and dilutions, for better or worse, valid for both airbrushes and the three clear paints? Or for example a 0.5 is better suited to Auto Clear, as you use in the video?
Furthermore, why don't you polish with circular movements, but linear ones? What would happen? Is this true for all polishes even real car polishes?
I recommend you try the clear 2K SNP. I got better results than others on the market for modeling.
Thank you!
thank you my friend😊
There is no fixed rule for dilution ratios. I'm just showing my usual dilution ratio.I think this thining ratio suitable for most lacquer paints..0.5mm airbrush speed up the painting proces..
I think multi-directional linear polishing is easier to control than circular polishing..and ccording to my experience...it’s less likely to be over-polished..of course,this is the method that works for me.
I've tried 2K clear ..indeed it's very shiney...I'm just not used to the thickness and greasy feeling of its paint film.as described in my video..my skill is not good enough for 2K clear..
I will definitely try 2K clear in future..😊
cheers!!
Hi～ 林老師❤很棒的影片
感謝!!🙂
"老師"..不敢當啊..叫我"老林"即可...😅
一點經驗分享..希望有幫助..
@ 好吧😑老林 我還有點問題… 上次做的田宮miata 噴完漆面不平整（不管我怎麼磨都磨不平 我用的是蓋亞漆 稀釋比例大約1:1.5） 怎麼辦 是要再稀釋一下嗎（比例1:2～1:3？） PS：台灣的模型油土伯多以XX老師為名（例如密斯特X MAD WORKS 小X老師😂）
你好!!😊
我覺得漆面研磨最重要的是.....必須等漆完全乾燥和硬化..至於比例.請參考我"乾噴和濕噴"的影片..另外.如果真的不平整或是有大瑕疵..我會用比較粗的砂紙或是海綿砂研磨..甚至到1200-1000號..只要底漆不磨穿都算安全..接著再用細的砂紙修整磨痕..這工法用在色漆塗膜或是透明漆塗膜皆共通..
我的習慣是..乾噴➡️研磨➡️濕噴➡️細磨加拋光..原則是研磨前漆面一定要完全硬化(通常我會等5天到一周)..
一點經驗分享...其實..光是說都很容易...我總是在練習和嘗試的過程中有所領悟和精進..
相信你會找到最適合你自己個工法和工具..👍
Awesome tips, thanks a lot. Question about Finisher's Auto Clear (Finisher's in general), is it possible to thin them with Mr. Hobby Leveling Thinner or do they require Finisher's thinner?
hi,yes,it could be thin with Mr.hobby leveling thinner..and all finisher's lacquer paint could be thin with Mr.hobby thinner...
I've tried it before,however,just in my opnion..I feel it got a little bit better result by thinning with finisher's "pure thinner"..after sanding and polishing...there is almost no difference in the results..
I can barely get finisher's thinner now...so I use Mr.hobby thinner most time..
@@MRLINSSCALEMODELING Thank you!
Hi Mr. Lin, as usual I got a question for you: I already bought all three compounds from tamiya. I know those tri-color tamiya compound applicators are dedicated for it. Do they really make the difference or are they cash grab and you can apply with any cloth with the same result?
Edit: also, on which step you recommend to add decals? After first clear coat?
i used them also before, but now i use meguiere products from amazon and i am getting the results. Depends how much your are building, the same as with the clearcoats, i used zero paints diamond 2k, gavity clear 2k, that stinks a lot,now i bought 1,5 litre automotive clearcoat for a fraction of the price. but again,how much you build.
hi,I think tamiya compounds are quite handy..especially the "finishing" one..I just don't like its packaging..it always cracks...😂
about the applicators..I feel the fiber of these cloth just fit for apply compound and polishing..I've tried various fabrics and still back to use these applicators ...
I often apply decal before clear coat..the first condition is that the surface must be smooth..if not, a clear coat would help with decal adhesion..
cheers!! 😊
@@MRLINSSCALEMODELING alright I'm gonna trust your experience and get that tamiya cloth. I recently purchased tweezers from both, Revell and Tamiya, and the Tamiya ones are on whole different, higher level. I guess they really are one of the top tier companies :)
@@MRLINSSCALEMODELING Very true Master. I was a decent builder before i watched your video,s. But just only by watching them and paying a bit more attention i have learned a lot from you . And this how to do video is a must for every builder who like to improve his work. Even me and my wife are pleasantly surprised how much better i am getting since the 2 years i am watching your video,s. And when i can reach your level step by step in 3 years more,i am over the moon to reach your level of kit building. The applicators from Tamiya are not my thing to be honest. And the clear after the decals makes the end result 100% better. Then the car looks like a real car and not as a cheap toy with stickers.
thank you my friend!!😄I'm glad to hear that..
to be honest, I can't be called a "master"...Just try to be a little more refined every time when I build a model..😅
try to share my experience and results from videos...which I get a lot of happiness and inspiration from it..
Anyway..I'm glad my video is helpful for model builders...and your support keeps me carry on!!!👍