Drill- Packedge in typical box, came with a tool bag (added bonus), two batteries, one charger, drill, and driver. Two words "plenty of Torque" th-cam.com/users/postUgkxW1vOBRCMrgTCDEijzpVzDWsgI-Jm2iQv well I guess that's three. Nice upgrade from current setup. Has belt clips, I don't think I will be using those. Driver and drill were bigger than what I expected but it is an upgrade from the current setup. For the money I would say that this is a great setup for Professionals and DIY/Weekend warriors.
I prefer impact for framing. Anything tiny, minimal fasten jobs, etc, I use a drill. On the subject of annoying sounds, I have to use a "fine tool". Dont know the proper name, that's what my father almost called in. Straight tool, electric, oscillating blade. Blades about inch and a half. Good for delicate work or small cutouts--cutting out electrical or plumbing from the frame without damaging anything. It's such a high speed whine it drives me insane. Ear plugs are a definite.
There's also, aside from all the other great points made, the advantage of having the drill with the bit you need to drill the pilot-hole and having the driver with the bit you need to drive a screw. The fact that you don't have to switch from drill bit to driving bit and back and forth so often in the same tool just makes life that much easier.
My son in law is a know-it-all millenial. But he IS mechanically inclined. He has used a small cordless impact driver for a few years now. He is all praise for it. But you defined it for me. Now I am considering a battery impact driver of the same brand as my battery chainsaw. Then I will have a spare bsttery at times. (I learned this with the purchase of several Craftsmsn units. But now it is time for a new brand.) Thanks Scott.
Our field crews use battery powered drills and impacts even though we have air and electricity available. No cords or hoses just makes the job site safer and more efficient.
Good point about not having cables being safer, I also feel not being wired to the mains is safer. If a cordless gets soaked or breaks, it will probably just fail, a wired tool might just decidde to put every available amp from the grid into your arm.
Great video! I love my impact drivers. Total game changer. Two other big advantages of an impact driver for threaded fasteners... 1. The torque applied to your wrist is far lower - no need for an added support arm like you find on powerful drill drivers. My big Makita drill has enough torque to break your wrist if you're not careful. With an impact driver you can bury a huge Tapcon screw into concrete using fingertip pressure. 2. The torque applied to the structure being fastened is far lower as well. For example, you can use an impact wrench to remove and attach lug nuts from a wheel while it is off the ground. A breaker bar will want to spin the wheel around the axle, but an impact wrench puts all of the torque directly into the lug nut and none on the axle. Note: you still need to lower a vehicle to properly torque down a lug nut, but it's nice to be able to lift a car before dealing with the lug nuts. But don't forget - wear hearing protection when using an impact driver!
Came here to raise the same two points. These are signficant. Taking the blade holder off and on my lawn mower with anything other than an impact driver is a major pain due to it wanting to turn. Likewise, the torque an impact driver produces is often greater than what my wrist would be able to take if the same torque was delivered in a continous fashion by a traditional drill.
Tapcons shouldn't be installed with an impact driver. There are very small pieces of concrete holding the screw in (the concrete that mates with the groves in the screw), and when you start adding percussive force to it, it tends to fail. Same happens when people use the hammer drill, that they used to drill the hole, to also drive the screw. (Albeit worse with the hammer drill than impact driver.)
I bought a set like this which included a drill and impact driver. I've never touched the impact driver. I'm running home today to put a bunch of bolts into shit now can't wait.
Just be aware that you should use bits for the impact driver that are "impact rated". Regular bits may work fine but wear out quickly, although smaller ones (like square bits) could break. The impact rated bits aren't much more expensive than regular bits, but are usually a darker color.
Thanks, I bought em as a set like you suggested. Let me just say, as a man in my late thirties whose used nothing but budget drills for my entire life... ponying up for a REAL drill/driver combo (I went with the brushless dewalt hammer/driver combo) is making me regret every other drill I've ever used. I had no idea how much I was going to love the impact driver in particular. What a difference! Quality screws (I like Spax), quality anchors (love the fischer duopower), and quality tools turn every home job into a real joy. I used to get so frustrated just hanging shelves using a $30 drill and included screws.
The impact driver has a hammer and anvil the hammer strikes the anvil and slips over the top of it allowing it to rotate. Thank god for these tools I remember having to screw everything by hand when I was an apprentice Electrician, the battery revolution has been fantastic also!!
Last few days I was building a gate for a friend and were using both in reverse roles. Used hex shank drill bit in impact and torx bit for screws in the drill because I could set the clutch low using 1 1/4" screws to attach the gate slats and bang em in quick without over driving them with my impact. Worked awesome !!
I have used that same model Makita impact driver at work for the last four years. I beat the living hell out of it and it just keeps working. I'm seriously impressed.
Man I really wish I grew up with this guy as my grandpa. Hell this channel alone has taught me so many life skills that I was never taught. If you read this sir your TH-cam channel has made a real positive difference in people's lives. Thank you.
my first and only Makita BTD141 impact BDF451 drill kit from over 15 years ago still works perfect, even the old batteries are all i need to finish jobs without any frustration.
When I first heard about impact drivers i didnt really know what they were all about. Now that I own impact drivers I cant live without it. I would also advise getting the 1/4" hex to socket adapters. They usually come in a 3 pack including 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" so that way you can use sockets.
Working on my cars has changed quite significantly since buying the socket adapters, And since there isn't much impact from these little drivers I just use them with regular sockets without a problem. I then use the torque wrench to set the final tightness.
@@fprintf yah I use the regular adapter and regular sockets also with no issue.. Ive since got a smaller sized impact socket set but still rocking the cheap harbor freight 3 piece adapters.
I wish that decent twist bits with a 1/4 inch hex shank were not as expensive as they are. For lots of common drilling tasks, it's easier to carry these around and do the drilling with the impact driver.
I work in a steel mill and I use the heck out of mine for sockets. Almost exclusively so. The little Milwaukee fuel impact driver can do way more work than you'd think. If that doesn't do it, I generally just go for their 3/4" impact and adapt down to what I need. I've actually had that 3/4 fuel bust nuts that a 3/4 Ingersoll air impact couldn't get. It was probably a slight age issue since all impacts diminish over time but still, it's a beast and doesn't require dragging out an air line.
Man! when you mentioned a Yankee screwdriver, a ton of good old memories came... Thanks for your videos, all of them...they give me a lot of memories of my Father, He was a Maker too and teach a several generations of a young man to make things, use tools, use machines, make workshops, and make all the work well... He passed away at a young age and miss him a lot, I miss the endless hours working together... really love your videos, I appreciate them because men like you pass the good and noble knowledge of a well-done work. Thanks, Thanks a lot. a big handshake from the other side of the world.
Yep, I love 'em both and use them together just about every day. One more tip: in reverse an impact driver will free screws or bolts that don't want to be free!
Yes, when I first got my DeWalt set a few years ago, one of the jobs was taking apart a wooden pergola the property's previous owner had built. The impact driver made short work of screws, nuts, and bolts that had been out in the weather for maybe 20 years. Great tools!
Occasionally one stumbles upon a real gem of a TH-cam show, and this sure is one of them! Thank you for making the effort to make these excellent videos and sharing them.
Great video. I really didn't understand impact drivers until I saw one used first-hand. I was helping a friend on a small project and he had a Makita impact driver. I was completely blown away (a big 'A-Ha' moment) by the work my friend was accomplishing with his impact driver and screws. So much so that I went out and bought the same impact driver. It was definitely a 'buy once, cry once' moment as it didn't come cheap. There's no substitute for an impact driver when you need to drive a bunch of screws quickly and with least amount of effort.
It comes down to what you're driving. Nuts, drill bits, or screws. Neither are impact rated (with exceptions). But which will be less damaged by shock vs torque energy transfer. Also the momentum of the drill drive can be avoided if the clutch is used accurately
Hi Scott, sound advice as allways, I have the same black and white makita set, that you showed, it's been the best money I ever spent, no more painful elbow from trying to drive big screws by hand, and yes I invested in some impact rated bits, thanks for the video , Best wishes to you and your's, Stuart.uk.
I remember when I got my first impact driver. (It was almost 20 years ago.) My dad pissed and moaned about it, and how I should just use the drill, until he actually saw it in action. We were attaching wood to a 2x2x1/8" (maybe 0.120") welded square tubing frame. It set the self tapping screws so much easier, more reliably, less cam out, and quicker. I've also replaced all our old 18V brushed cordless tools with 12V brushless tools. They have more power, less weight, and longer runtime than the 18V brushed tools. They aren't as good as 18V brushless tools, but I have rarely found a time that I need 18V brushless tools, even on the job. I installed 40 ¼"x3¼" Tapcons into block (drilled to full 3¼" depth in poured blocks and areas I hit the webbing) with one 2 Ah battery. One battery to hammer drill all the 3/16" holes, and to drive the Tapcons.
ive been an HVAC installer for 20 years now. In the early years of my career i didnt have an impact, what a mistake! Now i use my 18 volt regular drill only for drilling holes of various sizes 1"-6". And then use a 12 volt impact for everything else. I fasten ALOT of screws on a daily basis and some into very thick multiple layers of metal. Plus use it for large fasteners and anchor bolts into concrete. No more using a socket wrench. That little 12 volt impact is truly amazing and to me it seems like it has 100 times more power than a much larger drill. For sure a must have tool
I recently bought my first impact driver to de-squeek my sub-floor. What a revelation! I was like, "where have you been all my life?" I tried using my big 1/2 inch drill. It had plenty of power. The choice was to try to pull off the screw at just the right moment, or back off on the variable speed and let it stall out at just the right moment. I didn't like either of those options. The latter seemed like it was not so good for the drill. If I didn't hit it right, I would either drive the screw all they way through the plywood, or break off the head. You are absolutely right about being able to control the set of the screw with an impact. There is very little rotating mass connected directly to the bit. That is why it can stop instantly. A good combination I found was T25 headed construction screws, any T25 bit, a locking extension and a 20v impact driver. Counterintuitively, the T25 bits lasted a lot longer with the impact than with the big drill.
just this...no matter the tool or subject.....Scott is a exemplary TEACHER! (pictured how blessed were those young Scouts in Scotts certain history of teaching...) Marvelous. Darrell
Back when I was updating all my stuff to Dewalt 20v (On a serious budget) I started flipping them as a way to pay for them. Buying broken stuff off of eBay, fixing it and flipping on CL/FB. Took many an impact/drill apart. I’m not a physicist either but you are right on the money with how they work. I like impacts better for their feel. When sheetrocking, for example, a drill with a regular #2 Phillips will pull thru very often. You have to have some touch. Impacts are a piece of cake. Get it close and one final squeeze to set it perfectly and off to the next one. At my real job I just got a 1” Milwaukee cordless impact to replace my hydraulic version. It’s a tank. Not quite as powerful as the Hydr one but it’s stout and does the job well. It’s a game changer for my trade and it’s proof that every tool out there regardless of power source will soon run off of a battery.
I bought a set of these a few years ago (replacing a 25 year old Makita driver) and had no idea what to do with the impact driver. I think it's still in the box. I'm going down to the garage to try it out now. Thank you!
Great video. I actually was explaining this to a friend recently who is new to DIY and was gifted a set by his wife. Its kinda a hard concept to understand without the physical experience of the differences. Also its great for building things that you pre-drill because you always have a pre-drill/countersink bit on the drill and a head on the driver.
I bought a set years ago but have ignored the impact in favor of the drill. I'll have to make an effort to start using the impact more as you make some really good arguments in its favor. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and time with all of us..
Thanks for another thoughtful, down to earth, video based on real experience. I am astounded by the number of comments you got so fast. I am also a user of these indispensable tools. I agree with all your points. My only comments are that the shorter the tool is (front to back) the better and if it can hold a 1-inch bit directly so much the better. I also picked up an angle drive (90 degree) for the impact driver that can also be used with the drill for some things. Useful in tight spots. The only downside is that my wrists are not nearly as strong as the used to be.
My first drill and impact driver was one of the best purchases I made when I first started collecting tools. Also, I completely agree that buying these in a set makes the most sense. Usually you will get the best value for your money that way.
Yeah, you can often get it for free if you look around for a deal. I got my first one for free when I bought a circ see, recip saw, hammer drill, work light dealt combo kit. (You got to pick out a bare tool if you buy the kit.) But I've gotten other free impact drivers with just the purchase of a hammer drill.
Both ar good tools. I need to buy an impact soon. This man’s videos are a national treasure. You all know this, as you click around youtube, that is, lots of people make vidoes like this but few have the presentation skills, on screen presence, and natural soothing voice (or unique voice of sort). This man will go down as the Bob Ross of construction videos on youtube. And on top of that he gives insane good advice. -6-15-21
I have the same Porter Cable impact driver as you have. It was my first power tool and it's still going strong years later. Only recently I've decided to semi retire it because I don't ever want it to wear out. It's gone from tool to collectable for me. My M12 Milwaukee kit is my daily driver now and in time an M18 kit will accompany it for harder work. I know they are just tools. But I'm sentimental about my first tools. I've already retired my first hammer. It has a great memory behind it and I just can't risk losing it on a job. I'm a tool guy for life. I wanna be that old man who has a million interesting tools and stories to tell about every one of them when I get too old to use them much anymore.
Thanks for another great video. I wish I'd jumped on the cordless impact driver bandwagon sooner. I only got my first one about 2 yrs ago. They are an absolutely great tool for me. I have arthritis and can't turn wrenches any more, but still have to get stuff done. Mine has saved me an awful lot of pain.
Essentially what happens with an impact is a hammer rotates and impacts the spinning mechanism at a certain frequency (certain amount of times per second), and when it maintains that frequency, each hit works to amplify the previous hit, leading to the monstrous torque these guys can put out with a relatively small motor. Excellent video!!! I learn so much from your channel, and it's just a pleasure to watch and listen to you!!!
Without meaning to throw any shade at either of these tools (I love them both), I love corded drill much more than the cordless. It's not always practical at all, you just don't have an outlet sometimes, but man is that thing more powerful, and not having to worry about batteries is such a relief.
I was skeptical at first about the impact drill. My brother and me his ridgid set, after the first use, man honestly I love them jokers. Id rather use the impact other the regular drill but like you said, you're gonna need both and that's true. Lol. Good video bud
Great Vid, I learned something. In the HVAC industry we typically use impact drivers to remove stuck sheet metal screws and drive them in. I do some carpentry and my DeWalt has an impact hammer setting. I'm definitely going to try running wood screw that way. Thanks Bob K.
White makita set is great, got one four years ago and they're still like new. Especially the impact, and I've given it several hot suppers, and it feels great in the hand. Next on my list is something lighter though
2:30 I would never use my battery powered drivers for paint, glue or screed mixing. That kind of stress easily burns the motor and shortens the lifespan of the tool. Drivers are designed for drilling and screwing; I prefer traditional corded drill equipment for mixing use. That's only my personal opinion and I do not disrespect Scott's insights :)
My Makita white pair in a cloth bag is the GO-TO solution with the small, light batteries. I did buy a third battery which fits in the bag nicely. Long ago, I was an early adopter of impact drivers for building wooden handicap ramps. One thing I learned is that impact drivers don 't play nice with stainless steel screws. The steel is softer and the heads strip out more easily.
When using a spade bit I've switched from using drill to a impact. So much easier and safer for the wrists. Just have to make sure to clear the chips more often if is a deep bore because the bit can get stuck and reverse can't back it out.
Force = Mass x Acceleration To increase force, we must increase acceleration. (Mass remains constant) Acceleration is the change in velocity over time. Every time we stop the motion, and re accelerate it in short bursts, we get a high amount of force transfer to the screw. This is because the driver is changing from 0 velocity (stationary), to a relatively high velocity (the quick jolt of the driver) in a very short time. (Around 40times a second) creating a large value of acceleration. High acceleration = high force = high torque (energy transfer) Energy (Torque) = Force x Distance
As a guy that does mostly mechanical work, I sort of ended up with a 1/4" impact by accident because it came as a set with some other tools I wanted. I am _very_ surprised by how much I use that thing out in the shop for light disassembly. I figured it would just rot in a drawer until the day came that I had to work on a deck or something and that it would be useless for mechanical stuff. I was wrong. A modern, small, cordless impact is absolutely on my list of tools that every handy type of guy should have no matter what work they do. So much greatness in such a small package and usually a really great price. It's hard to screw up.
@@erikolsson9780 I think mine produces about 30ft-lbs. But, like he said in the video, it only produces as much torque as you put on the trigger. edit: I also don't use mine to actually "tighten" things. I use it primarily as a disassembly aid. Or if I'm doing like 30 automatic transmission pan bolts I'll snug them up with the gun and then torque them with a torque wrench at proper value and in sequence.
Thank you for the great video. Nice to know someone else remembers the Yankee driver. Great tip on using the impact driver for Philips screws, never tried it but will today.
When I got my first impact gun it blew my mind. After using normal drills for years and using an impacter it realy is a colossal differance. Allowing a small drill to be capable of extreme work. I can only imagine it as the same jump people seen when first switching from the old push drivers. (you know them long spiral gear things that you had to push against.) And now I recently got a tiny hilti impacter that is half the size of the usual ones. It's a little beast. I am really looking forward to seeing the next innovation that makes our lives easier. Like maybe some type of wormhole technology that just teleports the fixture into whatever material your working with. Waaaaaait just a minute........
I scored my first impact driver in a set from makita, came with saws and a grinder. I never knew what I was missing until I tried that sucker on framing. Its my most used tool for all deck and frame work, anchoring any lag bolts. The brushless motors now make it even better with longer run times and lower heat build up.
My uncle welded a bit onto his whisk. I tried to make breakfast one morning when I was visiting him using that method and I sprayed egg all over the kitchen and opened up that whisk. When I went to wake him/confess to wrecking it, he laughed and put it in a vase, like a warped flower. He died a few years ago & I brought that whisk home in honor of his ingenuity, humor, and graciousness.
I have driven multiple 10 inch and a few 12 inch timberlocks through a 6x6 ground contact rated pressure treated timber into a header. Impact Drivers are one of the most used tool in my day. 100% recommended.
The new Milwaukee impact with the hydraulic fluid has totally changed the game. I can use it all day and not feel like I have Parkinson's in my hands at the end of the day. we compared it to the regula Milwaukee fuel impact and although the regular is slightly faster, it doesn't keep the power maintained by the hydraulic impact on screws 4" and longer. Its perfect for those 14" structural screws. Will never use another drill/impact. Never use and impact to drive on a nylon lock nut. The nylon overheats, swells and locks on permanently, usually before its tight, and you will need a cut off wheel to remove it.
@@mikejones-ku5ix your right i totally glossed over how much quiter it is. Its night and day difference. My regular fuel impact is at the bottom of my toolbox, forgotten like its Ryobi or Craftsman brand
About a month ago I was using my newest brushless drill in drill mode (locked clutch) with a spade bit to cut a bunch of 3/4" holes to run wires through the studs. All was going swimmingly - the new spade bits just tore through the wood with little effort - right up until I hit a buried framing nail and the bit stopped cold, spinning the drill right out of my hands. I swear my wrist rotated the full 360 degrees and my hand went numb from the forearm down. I briefly thought I'd broken a bone but all I had done was stretch the tendons in my thumb waaaay past the limit. It's taken weeks to get something close to a full strength grip back but I feel very fortunate. If I had thought this through I would have used the drill in driver mode with the clutch set quite high - enough that plowing through the framing wouldn't have been an issue but the moment it hit something unexpected, it would have broken the clutch, not my thumb! Next time I'll have a little more respect for just how much power those guys have!
Years ago, I remember a coworker, up on a scaffold, drilling holes thru a ledger for some carriage bolts. He was using one of those old, corded, ½” Milwaukee’s with the screw-in handle and zero clutch. He was working right at shoulder height and thus, really putting his shoulder into it. Suddenly the big auger bit hit something inside (likely a nail, like you) and the drill spun out of his hand and the handle whipped around and hit him right in the face, breaking his nose. WHAMMO!! He walked around for the next 2 weeks with the most beautiful set of dual black eyes you ever saw!
@@psidvicious Yeah, I was working over my head so didn't have good leverage on the drill. I also had the screw-in side handle and -thought- I had a good grip on that one. Between the high current battery and the brand new Bosch Daredevil spade bits, it was just tearing through the wood in no time flat! I guess an over-stretched thumb is a small price to pay considering your buddy's experience...
Found your channel recently. You're videos are superb, your presentation is smooth, your vocabulary is impressive and you are very easy to listen to. Oh, and you have a lot of valuable things to say because you actually have knowledge and skill and you're able to transfer that knowledge, you are a natural teacher. Video request: Your abilities with a Skill saw are excellent and you've done a couple videos on how to use the saw but what's missing from those videos is the nuance of how you use your body to get the results from the saw. Could you do a third saw video focused on how the body, the eye, the hand, the muscle memory interacts with the saw to get the results you get? I'm sure it happens without thought after 40 years with that rig in your hand but maybe you could dissect it a bit and help us be like you. Many thanks for the lessons and entertainment.
I got a 14V Hitachi (my 3rd, they get lighter and lighter) it is always with me at work. 4 settings 1 slow little power good for tiny screws in bad wood, 3 for tightening M10 bolts hard all day and the wrists are fine after. If you never tried it it is excellent for pop-rivet holes with it's hi speed and stops on a dime, I use snappy adapters for common drill sizes. Problem with drill and screws is you set the clutch and the wood is constantly changing. I use my 18v hammer-drill with a chuck adapter for drilling to save carrying weight. But yes I use my old festool with all the adapters inside, the impact sound is pretty bad in a cabinet. Just ask the neighbors.
My father only had hand crank drills when I was a kid in the 1950's. I remember the first cordless drills that came out. Worthless. The drills and impact drivers we have today are priceless.
I needed this video 5 years ago when I bought my first power drill. I did so much research on getting the best drill I could find, not understanding that drilling and driving are two different tasks for two different tools. I spent more on a single cordless drill than a set would have cost me, but like you said, I could only do half the work! It wasn’t until I started doing construction that I understood the difference and necessity of having both. I bet even a low quality set of a drill and impact driver would be better than spending thrice the money on a single cordless drill.
I made the mistake of buying just a cordless drill without the driver many years ago. Never again. The time alone I save having both was well worth the money. Thanks always for the videos!
I ran the service and warrantee department of a large tool store for several years. I can tell/show you SO many ways to break either of these! All customer discovered. ;) Biggest most common failure though is using “cheap” bits in an impact. Want them to last, and not make you need to toss out your impact? Get Milwaukee Shockwave bits. You twist the head off a cheapie inside your anvil - it’s not coming out. New parts and labour? Frequently exceeded the cost of a new impact.
The Milwaukee m12 screwdriver is awesome for small screw work or where you want to be more “gentle” assembling such as with pocket holes. And fits nicely in the hand
With the power and versatility you get with a set like this, I've been just using my 12v Bosch set I bought for taking apart dash board to do any and all homeowner type tasks. Decking, fencing, they can do a lot for their size. 😁
I am surprised you haven't used the full line of battery operated power tools more on the house build. The tools have gotten so good and there are so many convenience benefits of the newest generation of the full line of portable power tools like circular saws and reciprocating saws and those types of things. I think I may have seen them in the background in some of the more recent videos you have put up. What comes to mind is the 36 volt, double 18 volt, Makita circular saw. there are sure a lot of people who would love to hear your input on those tools versus the tools that you have been using for the last 30 years or so.
I've been around tools for a big portion of my life but I can honestly say that I was the most excited when I first used an impact driver and how easily it would drive even the dullest of screws into solid wood. It was pretty rough back in the day when you'd try to drive a phillips head screw and it would slip and get stripped out and then you'd have to take it out and put in another so I thought life was good when I switched to hex heads. I've been with Milwaukee for a long time but for my personal use I got a Makita XDT13 because it came with a 3 Ah battery. Feels like I'm cheating on Milwaukee but they skimped on the battery in the kit.
You gotta have both I agree. If you're building a deck with hardwood boards that need pre-drilling having both means you can set up the driver with a drill/countersink bit and use the impact driver for screwing boards down, no need to constantly switch bits and change the speed/torque setting on the driver. Impact drivers will get a screw bedded down twice as fast as well. If you've only got a one off project you can buy a cheap set, or one or the other but definitely worth having both.
Drill- Packedge in typical box, came with a tool bag (added bonus), two batteries, one charger, drill, and driver. Two words "plenty of Torque" th-cam.com/users/postUgkxW1vOBRCMrgTCDEijzpVzDWsgI-Jm2iQv well I guess that's three. Nice upgrade from current setup. Has belt clips, I don't think I will be using those. Driver and drill were bigger than what I expected but it is an upgrade from the current setup. For the money I would say that this is a great setup for Professionals and DIY/Weekend warriors.
This guy is like the dad everyone should have. Helpful video, thanks
Exactly right
I have been extremely lucky to have a dad that was like essential craftsman. In a perfect world every young man would be as lucky.
Well said.
I had a boss who didn't want me using an impact because he didn't like the sound it made. I don't miss him!
Wow, Crazy , I guess he didn’t stick around for the fien cutter thing that is best awesome and noisiest tool ever
I don’t really care for the sound either, but I love my impact driver and wouldn’t go without ever again.
STOP USING THAT WORM DRIVE!
I prefer impact for framing. Anything tiny, minimal fasten jobs, etc, I use a drill. On the subject of annoying sounds, I have to use a "fine tool". Dont know the proper name, that's what my father almost called in. Straight tool, electric, oscillating blade. Blades about inch and a half. Good for delicate work or small cutouts--cutting out electrical or plumbing from the frame without damaging anything. It's such a high speed whine it drives me insane. Ear plugs are a definite.
You should look up oil impacts. An impact driver without the sound.
You're so well spoken, you'd have made a great school teacher.
Thanks for the video.
TRUE THAT, & 1 YOU REALLY WANTED
2 LISTEN TO! I ❤ THIS GUY! 😇
@Duncan Mac That's what I thought!
No, he actually does the world good
He would have but in a classroom he may have impacted the lives of maybe a thousand people. On TH-cam he can impact the lives of millions.
There's also, aside from all the other great points made, the advantage of having the drill with the bit you need to drill the pilot-hole and having the driver with the bit you need to drive a screw. The fact that you don't have to switch from drill bit to driving bit and back and forth so often in the same tool just makes life that much easier.
100% agree. The constant switching sucked.
I love that you’re using Makita’s. Not fancy or flashy - just good tools.
My son in law is a know-it-all millenial. But he IS mechanically inclined. He has used a small cordless impact driver for a few years now. He is all praise for it. But you defined it for me. Now I am considering a battery impact driver of the same brand as my battery chainsaw. Then I will have a spare bsttery at times. (I learned this with the purchase of several Craftsmsn units. But now it is time for a new brand.)
Thanks Scott.
Our field crews use battery powered drills and impacts even though we have air and electricity available. No cords or hoses just makes the job site safer and more efficient.
Good point about not having cables being safer, I also feel not being wired to the mains is safer. If a cordless gets soaked or breaks, it will probably just fail, a wired tool might just decidde to put every available amp from the grid into your arm.
Great video! I love my impact drivers. Total game changer. Two other big advantages of an impact driver for threaded fasteners...
1. The torque applied to your wrist is far lower - no need for an added support arm like you find on powerful drill drivers. My big Makita drill has enough torque to break your wrist if you're not careful. With an impact driver you can bury a huge Tapcon screw into concrete using fingertip pressure.
2. The torque applied to the structure being fastened is far lower as well. For example, you can use an impact wrench to remove and attach lug nuts from a wheel while it is off the ground. A breaker bar will want to spin the wheel around the axle, but an impact wrench puts all of the torque directly into the lug nut and none on the axle. Note: you still need to lower a vehicle to properly torque down a lug nut, but it's nice to be able to lift a car before dealing with the lug nuts.
But don't forget - wear hearing protection when using an impact driver!
Came here to raise the same two points. These are signficant. Taking the blade holder off and on my lawn mower with anything other than an impact driver is a major pain due to it wanting to turn. Likewise, the torque an impact driver produces is often greater than what my wrist would be able to take if the same torque was delivered in a continous fashion by a traditional drill.
Tapcons shouldn't be installed with an impact driver. There are very small pieces of concrete holding the screw in (the concrete that mates with the groves in the screw), and when you start adding percussive force to it, it tends to fail. Same happens when people use the hammer drill, that they used to drill the hole, to also drive the screw. (Albeit worse with the hammer drill than impact driver.)
@@xenonram I hadn't thought of that. Excellent point and great advice.
awesome vid! No commercials was the best part! Thank you Essential Craftsman!!!
I bought a set like this which included a drill and impact driver. I've never touched the impact driver. I'm running home today to put a bunch of bolts into shit now can't wait.
The only thing I use a drill for now is drilling nice holes in wood. Impact for life. lol
Just be aware that you should use bits for the impact driver that are "impact rated". Regular bits may work fine but wear out quickly, although smaller ones (like square bits) could break. The impact rated bits aren't much more expensive than regular bits, but are usually a darker color.
narlycharley, get a set of nut drivers for it, get at least the 1/4”and the 5/16”. They’re great for anything with a hex head!
Go by one of those $15 hex sets by ryobi or dewalt at home depot and youll have multiple bits.
Murtasma I gut laughed out loud about u comment, so funny.
Thanks, I bought em as a set like you suggested. Let me just say, as a man in my late thirties whose used nothing but budget drills for my entire life... ponying up for a REAL drill/driver combo (I went with the brushless dewalt hammer/driver combo) is making me regret every other drill I've ever used. I had no idea how much I was going to love the impact driver in particular. What a difference! Quality screws (I like Spax), quality anchors (love the fischer duopower), and quality tools turn every home job into a real joy. I used to get so frustrated just hanging shelves using a $30 drill and included screws.
The impact driver has a hammer and
anvil the hammer strikes the anvil and slips over the top of it allowing it to rotate. Thank god for these tools I remember having to screw everything by hand when I was an apprentice Electrician, the battery revolution has been fantastic also!!
There is also a helix behind the hammer, which pulls it away from the anvil when torque is applied from the motor. :-)
And silly me has seen way too many panel screws overtightened by electricians using impact drivers to install them...
screw everything by hand? Your forearms must be massive.
Last few days I was building a gate for a friend and were using both in reverse roles. Used hex shank drill bit in impact and torx bit for screws in the drill because I could set the clutch low using 1 1/4" screws to attach the gate slats and bang em in quick without over driving them with my impact. Worked awesome !!
I have used that same model Makita impact driver at work for the last four years. I beat the living hell out of it and it just keeps working. I'm seriously impressed.
Ave has a great video showing in slow motion what the "impact" actually looks like when it's engaged very intriguing stuff
I use Impact driver to assemble all my wood related builds. I use the drill driver for making holes. Impact makes things a whole lot easier.
Yep, it's worth the investment just to not have to constantly switch out between drill and driver bits.
Jim Davis, I agree Jim, even in the home shop.
You really missed an opportunity for a pun there
Man I really wish I grew up with this guy as my grandpa. Hell this channel alone has taught me so many life skills that I was never taught. If you read this sir your TH-cam channel has made a real positive difference in people's lives. Thank you.
my first and only Makita BTD141 impact BDF451 drill kit from over 15 years ago still works perfect, even the old batteries are all i need to finish jobs without any frustration.
When I first heard about impact drivers i didnt really know what they were all about. Now that I own impact drivers I cant live without it.
I would also advise getting the 1/4" hex to socket adapters. They usually come in a 3 pack including 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" so that way you can use sockets.
Working on my cars has changed quite significantly since buying the socket adapters, And since there isn't much impact from these little drivers I just use them with regular sockets without a problem. I then use the torque wrench to set the final tightness.
@@fprintf yah I use the regular adapter and regular sockets also with no issue.. Ive since got a smaller sized impact socket set but still rocking the cheap harbor freight 3 piece adapters.
Eventually I've gotten all of the above and much more. Go as you grow.
I wish that decent twist bits with a 1/4 inch hex shank were not as expensive as they are. For lots of common drilling tasks, it's easier to carry these around and do the drilling with the impact driver.
I work in a steel mill and I use the heck out of mine for sockets. Almost exclusively so. The little Milwaukee fuel impact driver can do way more work than you'd think. If that doesn't do it, I generally just go for their 3/4" impact and adapt down to what I need. I've actually had that 3/4 fuel bust nuts that a 3/4 Ingersoll air impact couldn't get.
It was probably a slight age issue since all impacts diminish over time but still, it's a beast and doesn't require dragging out an air line.
Man! when you mentioned a Yankee screwdriver, a ton of good old memories came...
Thanks for your videos, all of them...they give me a lot of memories of my Father, He was a Maker too and teach a several generations of a young man to make things, use tools, use machines, make workshops, and make all the work well...
He passed away at a young age and miss him a lot, I miss the endless hours working together...
really love your videos, I appreciate them because men like you pass the good and noble knowledge of a well-done work.
Thanks, Thanks a lot.
a big handshake from the other side of the world.
So articulate. You get the point across so well. Keep up the good work!
I gave my mom a Ryobi 18V impact driver a while back. My brother shot a video of her using it for the first time. She was absolutely awestruck!
Yep, I love 'em both and use them together just about every day. One more tip: in reverse an impact driver will free screws or bolts that don't want to be free!
Yes, when I first got my DeWalt set a few years ago, one of the jobs was taking apart a wooden pergola the property's previous owner had built. The impact driver made short work of screws, nuts, and bolts that had been out in the weather for maybe 20 years. Great tools!
Occasionally one stumbles upon a real gem of a TH-cam show, and this sure is one of them! Thank you for making the effort to make these excellent videos and sharing them.
I've watched nearly a dozen similar videos, and this was by far the most helpful. Thank you.
You are so well spoken and easy to understand!
Great video. I really didn't understand impact drivers until I saw one used first-hand. I was helping a friend on a small project and he had a Makita impact driver. I was completely blown away (a big 'A-Ha' moment) by the work my friend was accomplishing with his impact driver and screws. So much so that I went out and bought the same impact driver. It was definitely a 'buy once, cry once' moment as it didn't come cheap. There's no substitute for an impact driver when you need to drive a bunch of screws quickly and with least amount of effort.
I sincerely hope this guy knows how much some of us appreciate his feedbacks and guidance. Respect ✊
I can only say, Thank You Scott for the time you give to us that don't think we need it until we hear you say it.
It comes down to what you're driving. Nuts, drill bits, or screws.
Neither are impact rated (with exceptions).
But which will be less damaged by shock vs torque energy transfer.
Also the momentum of the drill drive can be avoided if the clutch is used accurately
Hi Scott, sound advice as allways, I have the same black and white makita set, that you showed, it's been the best money I ever spent, no more painful elbow from trying to drive big screws by hand, and yes I invested in some impact rated bits, thanks for the video , Best wishes to you and your's, Stuart.uk.
I'm gonna watch your video once more.very informative I appreciate it greatly.
Thank you for taking the time do everything you are doing, it is much appreciated
Thanks buddy. Your videos are great. Please keep educating us. You are appreciated.
This is a simple easy to understand video. Thanks for laymen terms.
Thank you sir! Great video and explanation of the two different drills! I have never used my impact drill but will now thanks to you!
I remember when I got my first impact driver. (It was almost 20 years ago.) My dad pissed and moaned about it, and how I should just use the drill, until he actually saw it in action. We were attaching wood to a 2x2x1/8" (maybe 0.120") welded square tubing frame. It set the self tapping screws so much easier, more reliably, less cam out, and quicker. I've also replaced all our old 18V brushed cordless tools with 12V brushless tools. They have more power, less weight, and longer runtime than the 18V brushed tools. They aren't as good as 18V brushless tools, but I have rarely found a time that I need 18V brushless tools, even on the job. I installed 40 ¼"x3¼" Tapcons into block (drilled to full 3¼" depth in poured blocks and areas I hit the webbing) with one 2 Ah battery. One battery to hammer drill all the 3/16" holes, and to drive the Tapcons.
Nice summary! you think you can get by with the drill for screwing but the advice is solid "buy the combo set" one of the great battery tools.
Great way of defining things......Salute from Damascus - Syria.
ive been an HVAC installer for 20 years now. In the early years of my career i didnt have an impact, what a mistake! Now i use my 18 volt regular drill only for drilling holes of various sizes 1"-6". And then use a 12 volt impact for everything else. I fasten ALOT of screws on a daily basis and some into very thick multiple layers of metal. Plus use it for large fasteners and anchor bolts into concrete. No more using a socket wrench. That little 12 volt impact is truly amazing and to me it seems like it has 100 times more power than a much larger drill. For sure a must have tool
I recently bought my first impact driver to de-squeek my sub-floor. What a revelation! I was like, "where have you been all my life?" I tried using my big 1/2 inch drill. It had plenty of power. The choice was to try to pull off the screw at just the right moment, or back off on the variable speed and let it stall out at just the right moment. I didn't like either of those options. The latter seemed like it was not so good for the drill. If I didn't hit it right, I would either drive the screw all they way through the plywood, or break off the head. You are absolutely right about being able to control the set of the screw with an impact. There is very little rotating mass connected directly to the bit. That is why it can stop instantly.
A good combination I found was T25 headed construction screws, any T25 bit, a locking extension and a 20v impact driver. Counterintuitively, the T25 bits lasted a lot longer with the impact than with the big drill.
just this...no matter the tool or subject.....Scott is a exemplary TEACHER! (pictured how blessed were those young Scouts in Scotts certain history of teaching...) Marvelous. Darrell
Back when I was updating all my stuff to Dewalt 20v (On a serious budget) I started flipping them as a way to pay for them. Buying broken stuff off of eBay, fixing it and flipping on CL/FB. Took many an impact/drill apart. I’m not a physicist either but you are right on the money with how they work. I like impacts better for their feel. When sheetrocking, for example, a drill with a regular #2 Phillips will pull thru very often. You have to have some touch. Impacts are a piece of cake. Get it close and one final squeeze to set it perfectly and off to the next one. At my real job I just got a 1” Milwaukee cordless impact to replace my hydraulic version. It’s a tank. Not quite as powerful as the Hydr one but it’s stout and does the job well. It’s a game changer for my trade and it’s proof that every tool out there regardless of power source will soon run off of a battery.
Your explanation of the physics is spot on, great intuition!
I bought a set of these a few years ago (replacing a 25 year old Makita driver) and had no idea what to do with the impact driver. I think it's still in the box. I'm going down to the garage to try it out now. Thank you!
Great video. I actually was explaining this to a friend recently who is new to DIY and was gifted a set by his wife. Its kinda a hard concept to understand without the physical experience of the differences. Also its great for building things that you pre-drill because you always have a pre-drill/countersink bit on the drill and a head on the driver.
Nice summary. I’ve been using a plain drill for a while. Now I know the impact driver is worth it. Adding it to my Christmas list!
Very well put across, really enjoyed the way you explained them.
I bought a set years ago but have ignored the impact in favor of the drill. I'll have to make an effort to start using the impact more as you make some really good arguments in its favor. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and time with all of us..
Thanks for another thoughtful, down to earth, video based on real experience. I am astounded by the number of comments you got so fast. I am also a user of these indispensable tools. I agree with all your points. My only comments are that the shorter the tool is (front to back) the better and if it can hold a 1-inch bit directly so much the better. I also picked up an angle drive (90 degree) for the impact driver that can also be used with the drill for some things. Useful in tight spots. The only downside is that my wrists are not nearly as strong as the used to be.
My first drill and impact driver was one of the best purchases I made when I first started collecting tools. Also, I completely agree that buying these in a set makes the most sense. Usually you will get the best value for your money that way.
Yeah, you can often get it for free if you look around for a deal. I got my first one for free when I bought a circ see, recip saw, hammer drill, work light dealt combo kit. (You got to pick out a bare tool if you buy the kit.) But I've gotten other free impact drivers with just the purchase of a hammer drill.
Both ar good tools. I need to buy an impact soon. This man’s videos are a national treasure. You all know this, as you click around youtube, that is, lots of people make vidoes like this but few have the presentation skills, on screen presence, and natural soothing voice (or unique voice of sort).
This man will go down as the Bob Ross of construction videos on youtube. And on top of that he gives insane good advice. -6-15-21
I have the same Porter Cable impact driver as you have. It was my first power tool and it's still going strong years later. Only recently I've decided to semi retire it because I don't ever want it to wear out. It's gone from tool to collectable for me. My M12 Milwaukee kit is my daily driver now and in time an M18 kit will accompany it for harder work. I know they are just tools. But I'm sentimental about my first tools. I've already retired my first hammer. It has a great memory behind it and I just can't risk losing it on a job. I'm a tool guy for life. I wanna be that old man who has a million interesting tools and stories to tell about every one of them when I get too old to use them much anymore.
Love the reference to AvE and his copper swing press video. You guys are both awesome in your own ways.
Thanks for another great video. I wish I'd jumped on the cordless impact driver bandwagon sooner. I only got my first one about 2 yrs ago. They are an absolutely great tool for me. I have arthritis and can't turn wrenches any more, but still have to get stuff done. Mine has saved me an awful lot of pain.
Essentially what happens with an impact is a hammer rotates and impacts the spinning mechanism at a certain frequency (certain amount of times per second), and when it maintains that frequency, each hit works to amplify the previous hit, leading to the monstrous torque these guys can put out with a relatively small motor.
Excellent video!!! I learn so much from your channel, and it's just a pleasure to watch and listen to you!!!
Without meaning to throw any shade at either of these tools (I love them both), I love corded drill much more than the cordless. It's not always practical at all, you just don't have an outlet sometimes, but man is that thing more powerful, and not having to worry about batteries is such a relief.
I was skeptical at first about the impact drill. My brother and me his ridgid set, after the first use, man honestly I love them jokers. Id rather use the impact other the regular drill but like you said, you're gonna need both and that's true. Lol. Good video bud
Appreciate your time.
Good explanation, patient and kind.
Glad you are here. 🤩👍
Great Vid, I learned something. In the HVAC industry we typically use impact drivers to remove stuck sheet metal screws and drive them in. I do some carpentry and my DeWalt has an impact hammer setting. I'm definitely going to try running wood screw that way. Thanks Bob K.
White makita set is great, got one four years ago and they're still like new. Especially the impact, and I've given it several hot suppers, and it feels great in the hand. Next on my list is something lighter though
Good introduction video on basics of both tools.
Excellent explanations! I have a clear picture of each now. Thank you
I just swapped out the motor in a 12 year old makita driver, incredibly easy to do, a nice bit of kit that's just going to keep going.
2:30 I would never use my battery powered drivers for paint, glue or screed mixing. That kind of stress easily burns the motor and shortens the lifespan of the tool. Drivers are designed for drilling and screwing; I prefer traditional corded drill equipment for mixing use. That's only my personal opinion and I do not disrespect Scott's insights :)
Exactly, easy and cheap to order and even I can solder 2 wires.
@@pistool1 Very true, but sometimes laziness or necessity makes you use the tool that is right there anyway.
My Makita white pair in a cloth bag is the GO-TO solution with the small, light batteries. I did buy a third battery which fits in the bag nicely. Long ago, I was an early adopter of impact drivers for building wooden handicap ramps. One thing I learned is that impact drivers don 't play nice with stainless steel screws. The steel is softer and the heads strip out more easily.
When using a spade bit I've switched from using drill to a impact. So much easier and safer for the wrists. Just have to make sure to clear the chips more often if is a deep bore because the bit can get stuck and reverse can't back it out.
I bought the makita sub compact drilling driver set a few weeks ago. They are awesome.
Force = Mass x Acceleration
To increase force, we must increase acceleration. (Mass remains constant)
Acceleration is the change in velocity over time. Every time we stop the motion, and re accelerate it in short bursts, we get a high amount of force transfer to the screw.
This is because the driver is changing from 0 velocity (stationary), to a relatively high velocity (the quick jolt of the driver) in a very short time. (Around 40times a second) creating a large value of acceleration.
High acceleration = high force = high torque (energy transfer)
Energy (Torque) = Force x Distance
I knew I should’ve studied more physics in school.
Please please do some more tools videos I'm a addicted. 😁 Thank u sir!
Thanks for giving me the understanding because I want really sure what they were.
As a guy that does mostly mechanical work, I sort of ended up with a 1/4" impact by accident because it came as a set with some other tools I wanted. I am _very_ surprised by how much I use that thing out in the shop for light disassembly. I figured it would just rot in a drawer until the day came that I had to work on a deck or something and that it would be useless for mechanical stuff. I was wrong.
A modern, small, cordless impact is absolutely on my list of tools that every handy type of guy should have no matter what work they do. So much greatness in such a small package and usually a really great price. It's hard to screw up.
What minimum torque do u prefer on an impact driver for lighter bolts?
@@erikolsson9780 I think mine produces about 30ft-lbs. But, like he said in the video, it only produces as much torque as you put on the trigger.
edit: I also don't use mine to actually "tighten" things. I use it primarily as a disassembly aid. Or if I'm doing like 30 automatic transmission pan bolts I'll snug them up with the gun and then torque them with a torque wrench at proper value and in sequence.
Thank you for the great video. Nice to know someone else remembers the Yankee driver. Great tip on using the impact driver for Philips screws, never tried it but will today.
Great video on explaining function, differences. I like my Makita.
When I got my first impact gun it blew my mind.
After using normal drills for years and using an impacter it realy is a colossal differance. Allowing a small drill to be capable of extreme work.
I can only imagine it as the same jump people seen when first switching from the old push drivers. (you know them long spiral gear things that you had to push against.)
And now I recently got a tiny hilti impacter that is half the size of the usual ones. It's a little beast.
I am really looking forward to seeing the next innovation that makes our lives easier.
Like maybe some type of wormhole technology that just teleports the fixture into whatever material your working with.
Waaaaaait just a minute........
I scored my first impact driver in a set from makita, came with saws and a grinder. I never knew what I was missing until I tried that sucker on framing. Its my most used tool for all deck and frame work, anchoring any lag bolts. The brushless motors now make it even better with longer run times and lower heat build up.
My uncle welded a bit onto his whisk. I tried to make breakfast one morning when I was visiting him using that method and I sprayed egg all over the kitchen and opened up that whisk. When I went to wake him/confess to wrecking it, he laughed and put it in a vase, like a warped flower. He died a few years ago & I brought that whisk home in honor of his ingenuity, humor, and graciousness.
I have driven multiple 10 inch and a few 12 inch timberlocks through a 6x6 ground contact rated pressure treated timber into a header. Impact Drivers are one of the most used tool in my day. 100% recommended.
8:15 sums up the video. But im not saying you shouldnt watch it!!
this man is amazing! thank you!
Gotta get your hands on the surge thing will blow your mind. Super quiet. Love it.
Finnally a REAL man ! Let’s see what the king of carpenters has to teach us
The new Milwaukee impact with the hydraulic fluid has totally changed the game. I can use it all day and not feel like I have Parkinson's in my hands at the end of the day. we compared it to the regula Milwaukee fuel impact and although the regular is slightly faster, it doesn't keep the power maintained by the hydraulic impact on screws 4" and longer. Its perfect for those 14" structural screws. Will never use another drill/impact. Never use and impact to drive on a nylon lock nut. The nylon overheats, swells and locks on permanently, usually before its tight, and you will need a cut off wheel to remove it.
Great comment and Wow , thanks for that advise 👍
Agree I just bought the M12 Hydraulic its so quiet!
I use the m12 surge impact for HVAC install. That sound decrease is really noticed in the confined spaces I work on a lot.
I tried the RIGID version of that and wasn't happy with it, and ended up returning it. It wasn't as controllable and vibrated a lot.
@@mikejones-ku5ix your right i totally glossed over how much quiter it is. Its night and day difference. My regular fuel impact is at the bottom of my toolbox, forgotten like its Ryobi or Craftsman brand
Thanks Scott, I always enjoy how your presentation style and information.
About a month ago I was using my newest brushless drill in drill mode (locked clutch) with a spade bit to cut a bunch of 3/4" holes to run wires through the studs. All was going swimmingly - the new spade bits just tore through the wood with little effort - right up until I hit a buried framing nail and the bit stopped cold, spinning the drill right out of my hands. I swear my wrist rotated the full 360 degrees and my hand went numb from the forearm down. I briefly thought I'd broken a bone but all I had done was stretch the tendons in my thumb waaaay past the limit. It's taken weeks to get something close to a full strength grip back but I feel very fortunate.
If I had thought this through I would have used the drill in driver mode with the clutch set quite high - enough that plowing through the framing wouldn't have been an issue but the moment it hit something unexpected, it would have broken the clutch, not my thumb! Next time I'll have a little more respect for just how much power those guys have!
Years ago, I remember a coworker, up on a scaffold, drilling holes thru a ledger for some carriage bolts. He was using one of those old, corded, ½” Milwaukee’s with the screw-in handle and zero clutch. He was working right at shoulder height and thus, really putting his shoulder into it. Suddenly the big auger bit hit something inside (likely a nail, like you) and the drill spun out of his hand and the handle whipped around and hit him right in the face, breaking his nose. WHAMMO!! He walked around for the next 2 weeks with the most beautiful set of dual black eyes you ever saw!
@@psidvicious Yeah, I was working over my head so didn't have good leverage on the drill. I also had the screw-in side handle and -thought- I had a good grip on that one. Between the high current battery and the brand new Bosch Daredevil spade bits, it was just tearing through the wood in no time flat! I guess an over-stretched thumb is a small price to pay considering your buddy's experience...
Found your channel recently. You're videos are superb, your presentation is smooth, your vocabulary is impressive and you are very easy to listen to. Oh, and you have a lot of valuable things to say because you actually have knowledge and skill and you're able to transfer that knowledge, you are a natural teacher.
Video request: Your abilities with a Skill saw are excellent and you've done a couple videos on how to use the saw but what's missing from those videos is the nuance of how you use your body to get the results from the saw. Could you do a third saw video focused on how the body, the eye, the hand, the muscle memory interacts with the saw to get the results you get? I'm sure it happens without thought after 40 years with that rig in your hand but maybe you could dissect it a bit and help us be like you.
Many thanks for the lessons and entertainment.
When I finally got myself an impact driver, it was a revelation. I realized I had essentially been using the wrong tool for decades, but we ALL were!
Same!
Good info! Best driver video I've seen
I got a 14V Hitachi (my 3rd, they get lighter and lighter) it is always with me at work.
4 settings 1 slow little power good for tiny screws in bad wood, 3 for tightening M10 bolts hard all day and the wrists are fine after.
If you never tried it it is excellent for pop-rivet holes with it's hi speed and stops on a dime,
I use snappy adapters for common drill sizes.
Problem with drill and screws is you set the clutch and the wood is constantly changing.
I use my 18v hammer-drill with a chuck adapter for drilling to save carrying weight.
But yes I use my old festool with all the adapters inside, the impact sound is pretty bad in a cabinet. Just ask the neighbors.
My father only had hand crank drills when I was a kid in the 1950's. I remember the first cordless drills that came out. Worthless. The drills and impact drivers we have today are priceless.
I needed this video 5 years ago when I bought my first power drill. I did so much research on getting the best drill I could find, not understanding that drilling and driving are two different tasks for two different tools. I spent more on a single cordless drill than a set would have cost me, but like you said, I could only do half the work! It wasn’t until I started doing construction that I understood the difference and necessity of having both. I bet even a low quality set of a drill and impact driver would be better than spending thrice the money on a single cordless drill.
I'm using the Ridgid combo from home depot for 140 bucks great set I love the impact
I made the mistake of buying just a cordless drill without the driver many years ago. Never again. The time alone I save having both was well worth the money. Thanks always for the videos!
I ran the service and warrantee department of a large tool store for several years. I can tell/show you SO many ways to break either of these! All customer discovered. ;) Biggest most common failure though is using “cheap” bits in an impact. Want them to last, and not make you need to toss out your impact? Get Milwaukee Shockwave bits. You twist the head off a cheapie inside your anvil - it’s not coming out. New parts and labour? Frequently exceeded the cost of a new impact.
The Milwaukee m12 screwdriver is awesome for small screw work or where you want to be more “gentle” assembling such as with pocket holes. And fits nicely in the hand
Great video. I was actually wondering the difference recently and this makes so much sense now.
With the power and versatility you get with a set like this, I've been just using my 12v Bosch set I bought for taking apart dash board to do any and all homeowner type tasks. Decking, fencing, they can do a lot for their size. 😁
Bought an impact driver last year and have been using it since. Gorgeous tool!
I am surprised you haven't used the full line of battery operated power tools more on the house build. The tools have gotten so good and there are so many convenience benefits of the newest generation of the full line of portable power tools like circular saws and reciprocating saws and those types of things. I think I may have seen them in the background in some of the more recent videos you have put up. What comes to mind is the 36 volt, double 18 volt, Makita circular saw. there are sure a lot of people who would love to hear your input on those tools versus the tools that you have been using for the last 30 years or so.
I've been around tools for a big portion of my life but I can honestly say that I was the most excited when I first used an impact driver and how easily it would drive even the dullest of screws into solid wood. It was pretty rough back in the day when you'd try to drive a phillips head screw and it would slip and get stripped out and then you'd have to take it out and put in another so I thought life was good when I switched to hex heads. I've been with Milwaukee for a long time but for my personal use I got a Makita XDT13 because it came with a 3 Ah battery. Feels like I'm cheating on Milwaukee but they skimped on the battery in the kit.
Hmm you need to shop batteries, i've got an M12 Milwaukee Ratchet with a 4 ah battery.
You gotta have both I agree.
If you're building a deck with hardwood boards that need pre-drilling having both means you can set up the driver with a drill/countersink bit and use the impact driver for screwing boards down, no need to constantly switch bits and change the speed/torque setting on the driver. Impact drivers will get a screw bedded down twice as fast as well.
If you've only got a one off project you can buy a cheap set, or one or the other but definitely worth having both.