I'm not here to criticize you or put down your video, I'd just like too add a couple pointers for the viewers who may undertake this for the first time. Like using your wire brushes and grinders to clean the deck before welding on it. Also when using a welder make sure to have the ground spot really clean. The ground is just as important as "the stinger". Also make sure you grind in a well ventilated area with a mask on, the risk of a flying wire hitting you in the eye is far less likely than breathing in the rust and dirt in the air from the grinding/sanding process. When removing the spindles sometimes the bolts come loose if you heat them with a little propane bottle torch for a couple minutes if you are trying to "save them" like reusing a good one off of another scrap deck. Another thing about the spindle bearing, once you remove the belt pulley the blade and spindle shaft will drop right out of the assembly. Good to know if, like yours the nut is stuck on the blade. Once the shaft is removed from the spindle the bearing could be knocked out and replaced with new ones. Sometimes with old, obsolete mowers there are any new replacements available or they are terribly expensive. The "new spindles with the zerks" are no better than the ones without the grease fittings. The reason being is the bearings are made with side shields to keep dirt and grit out. In order for them to be functional you must open the new spindle up, remove both bearings, cut the plastic piece off one side of each bearing, On the other side drill a 1/8" hole in the plastic shield carefully not to damage the bearings, (for a grease escape hole) pack them with a little bearing grease with your finger and reinstall them with the open side of the modified bearing turned towards the inside. Then use your grease gun to pack them full of grease. If your spindles do not have the grease fittings you can easily drill the correct sized hole into the spindle, tap it, and install your own zerk fitting, but again it only works if you modify the bearings. There are instructional videos on here if you look for them. The old bolts on the spindles seize up because of dissimilar metal corrosion, if you add a little "Never Seize" to the threads of the new steel bolts before installing them in the aluminum casing they will be much easier to remove later. This man probably repairs mowers and sells them, maybe he is fixing it for his personal mower? But if you are working on your personal mower that you plan to keep and use I suggest the inside of the deck be cleaned, sealed and painted more so than the outside. Most lawnmowers, push mowers included, rust out from the bottom of the deck to the top. I'm not saying all, but a lot. It is only a little more work but worth it if you plan to keep the mower. Also, after you grind and sand your deck, before applying paint, take some paper towels and rubbing alcohol and wipe the area to be painted until a new paper towel soaked in alcohol wipes clean. Removing the dust and dirt is important if you want the paint to last and $5 worth of alcohol and paper towels won't break the bank. When buying the right part for your mower, first find your model number, date of manufacture (if available), and serial number located on the tractor and look it up. Say you have a Troybilt Pony, you can go to the troybilt website and look up your model. From there you can download service manuals, owners manuals, diagrams, and a list of parts with the factory part numbers. You look up the part you need and make note of the part number. You can then decide if you want to shop elsewhere or by purchasing onsite. But at least you can get the correct part you need for your tractor if you go by the OEM part number when ordering. While I'm sure a great many of you already know these things and I don't mean to belittle or criticize anyone or trying to be sarcastic, Just trying to help the first timers out with a couple of pointers I thought may be of help. Sorry if I offended anyone. Keep up the good work Glenn, I enjoyed the video.
Ok. Ive got a yard man too. My ex best friend took the deck off last year and only sharpened one blade. Omg i was furious. My question is do i take the cotter pins out while the deck is up or down? Im fixing to have to pull mine out of my little building and sand,and paint the deck and sharpen both the blades. I replaced the air filter, spark plug, and changed the oil last year.
To take the pressure off the pins, deck should be down . Sometimes it's necessary to put a block of wood under it to allow the pins out easy. .good luck Glenn
Amazon's search engine is not great and I end up using eBay for many purchases when Amazon can't find that I need. An ebay auction only lasts for 7 days, by the time the video is up, the auction is over and a link to it would be a waste of time. Finding these parts is easy, I start on Amazon and search for example... Deck Kit. John Deere LA105. If Amazon can't provide what I need I move to eBay and search the same. Good luck Glenn
This video being over a year old, no way i would remember a belt size. I have done 20 tractors sense then... Always start your search on eBay. This is the first ad that came up. Check it for accuracy. www.ebay.com/itm/294404672894?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=YC_1tZwHTQi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=qLbt2skdRPO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I'm not here to criticize you or put down your video, I'd just like too add a couple pointers for the viewers who may undertake this for the first time. Like using your wire brushes and grinders to clean the deck before welding on it. Also when using a welder make sure to have the ground spot really clean. The ground is just as important as "the stinger". Also make sure you grind in a well ventilated area with a mask on, the risk of a flying wire hitting you in the eye is far less likely than breathing in the rust and dirt in the air from the grinding/sanding process.
When removing the spindles sometimes the bolts come loose if you heat them with a little propane bottle torch for a couple minutes if you are trying to "save them" like reusing a good one off of another scrap deck. Another thing about the spindle bearing, once you remove the belt pulley the blade and spindle shaft will drop right out of the assembly. Good to know if, like yours the nut is stuck on the blade. Once the shaft is removed from the spindle the bearing could be knocked out and replaced with new ones. Sometimes with old, obsolete mowers there are any new replacements available or they are terribly expensive.
The "new spindles with the zerks" are no better than the ones without the grease fittings. The reason being is the bearings are made with side shields to keep dirt and grit out. In order for them to be functional you must open the new spindle up, remove both bearings, cut the plastic piece off one side of each bearing, On the other side drill a 1/8" hole in the plastic shield carefully not to damage the bearings, (for a grease escape hole) pack them with a little bearing grease with your finger and reinstall them with the open side of the modified bearing turned towards the inside. Then use your grease gun to pack them full of grease. If your spindles do not have the grease fittings you can easily drill the correct sized hole into the spindle, tap it, and install your own zerk fitting, but again it only works if you modify the bearings. There are instructional videos on here if you look for them. The old bolts on the spindles seize up because of dissimilar metal corrosion, if you add a little "Never Seize" to the threads of the new steel bolts before installing them in the aluminum casing they will be much easier to remove later.
This man probably repairs mowers and sells them, maybe he is fixing it for his personal mower? But if you are working on your personal mower that you plan to keep and use I suggest the inside of the deck be cleaned, sealed and painted more so than the outside. Most lawnmowers, push mowers included, rust out from the bottom of the deck to the top. I'm not saying all, but a lot. It is only a little more work but worth it if you plan to keep the mower. Also, after you grind and sand your deck, before applying paint, take some paper towels and rubbing alcohol and wipe the area to be painted until a new paper towel soaked in alcohol wipes clean. Removing the dust and dirt is important if you want the paint to last and $5 worth of alcohol and paper towels won't break the bank.
When buying the right part for your mower, first find your model number, date of manufacture (if available), and serial number located on the tractor and look it up. Say you have a Troybilt Pony, you can go to the troybilt website and look up your model. From there you can download service manuals, owners manuals, diagrams, and a list of parts with the factory part numbers. You look up the part you need and make note of the part number. You can then decide if you want to shop elsewhere or by purchasing onsite. But at least you can get the correct part you need for your tractor if you go by the OEM part number when ordering.
While I'm sure a great many of you already know these things and I don't mean to belittle or criticize anyone or trying to be sarcastic, Just trying to help the first timers out with a couple of pointers I thought may be of help. Sorry if I offended anyone. Keep up the good work Glenn, I enjoyed the video.
Best video i've seen. I have that exact same mower.
Thanks 👍
Ok. Ive got a yard man too. My ex best friend took the deck off last year and only sharpened one blade. Omg i was furious. My question is do i take the cotter pins out while the deck is up or down? Im fixing to have to pull mine out of my little building and sand,and paint the deck and sharpen both the blades. I replaced the air filter, spark plug, and changed the oil last year.
And also what size socket did you use? I wish I had an impact drill. My buddy is gonna let me borrow his I think.
To take the pressure off the pins, deck should be down . Sometimes it's necessary to put a block of wood under it to allow the pins out easy.
.good luck
Glenn
I fix and sell about 10 machines every year, can't remember what socket size. Somewhere between 3/4 and 1" I will guess.
Good Luck
Glenn
I would be nice if share links to the parts you used.
Amazon's search engine is not great and I end up using eBay for many purchases when Amazon can't find that I need. An ebay auction only lasts for 7 days, by the time the video is up, the auction is over and a link to it would be a waste of time. Finding these parts is easy, I start on Amazon and search for example... Deck Kit. John Deere LA105. If Amazon can't provide what I need I move to eBay and search the same.
Good luck
Glenn
Hej, what is part number of belt? I can’t find out how long it should be. Thanks
This video being over a year old, no way i would remember a belt size. I have done 20 tractors sense then... Always start your search on eBay. This is the first ad that came up. Check it for accuracy.
www.ebay.com/itm/294404672894?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=YC_1tZwHTQi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=qLbt2skdRPO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
How long did it take you to figure out you installed the spindles wrong? lol
As soon as I was putting the idler pullies on and realized they are not lining up. .lol
Where do u get rust sargent.
th-cam.com/video/5PbuIsgu1Fc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=iqHYEBLN4I7imSRM
More info in this video