Hey if a job is worth doing its worth doing well, besides there is nothing worse than getting to the end of a project then wishing you had sprayed them. If you use a very thin contact (low tac) film you will hardly get a ridge around the edge of the label, if a shallow ridge still bothers you it can be polished out with a Dremel. Or I would photgraph the labels, repair any damaged text on the computer then print new ones on adhesive backed film (can be done online). Remove the existing paint and labels, wirebrush, prime sand 600 grit then spay them. I would also powder coat or chrome the chassis. Spray them or you will most probably regret later on in the build, probably when you are near to completing the project. Great vid and thanks for sharing 👍👍👍👍👍
Personally, the “old” patina provides a bit of historical “provenance” to this vintage classic and in dealing with items of a vintage state of appearance many are of the opinion that the minimal amount of physical restoration actually increases the value of the item. I would consider a McIntosh device to be of historical significance in the development of consumer electronics and as such worthy of a proper restoration in line with its vintage status. My 2¢ Looking forward to future videos. Thanks Tony.
I like the idea of keeping the transformers as they are (cleaned and maybe clear coated). If it looks a little battered then it will be all the more interesting when the electronics are perfect and it produces a fantastic sound. (this repair/restoration - whatever it turns in to is great idea for a video series - thank you, your videos are a real pleasure to watch).
Paint it a black crackle. I did that with a Dennon receiver I restored. Take pics of labels, then reprint them,or take pics to a printer to make your labels.Hugh ,Chicago,IL Ps - that is a finish,on the paint, very nice look, not related to audio.I bought paint @ Menards,spray cans,one tall one goes a very long way.You can re-paint bottom of amp cover with it also,it will tie in with x-formers...
I’m 3 years late .. but .. a lot of antique enthusiasts use a rustoleum like clear coat to seal semi rusty metal pieces, to keep the old look, but preserve the metal ...
As for the Xformers, I would use the thinned black paint method to freshen them up, yet keep the aged look. On your chrome finish, ball up aluminum foil and rub it across the pits. The pits will "cheese grate" the aluminum off the foil ball and will fill in the pits. Then re-polish the chrome. The deposited aluminum will almost look like chrome. It's not perfect, but it's far less noticeable since the pit gets filled in. It's an old used car dealers trick for chrome bumpers and motorcycle handlebars to improve the aesthetics. I've used this technique on plated diecast trim and chrome items with some degree of success. - Awesome vids! Keep 'em coming!
With the electrical repairs you're doing, this amp will be great! The transformer cases reflect the history of this amp in in my view should be left as is. This amp will be a fine addition to an audio setup and the "patina" reflects its story!
Great work! Inspires me to work on my Mac. There is a fourth option - print up some new labels for the transformers, there may even be a service that can print you up some new metal ones.
Tony, nice job, my personal opinion is to mask around labels but use a low or semi gloss black acrylic laquer, it will help to hide imperfections on the suface, high gloss enhace the damage areas. Thanks for share your job, I really enjoy your videos, regards from Mexico
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Looks like you already got deeper into this old MC2100 than you originally planned. The transformer labels should be reproducible, we used the same base material at work to make labels, it's an aluminum photo sensitive material that is exposed and processed (developed) as I recall but unfortunately I'm retired now and have no access to the materials or processing equipment or chemicals. There must be someone out there doing it, a sharp photograph printed with high contrast could be used as a template for the artwork. Short of all that a good masking job and paint should make the external finish of the transformers acceptable. This rebuild is moving along quickly, can't wait to see it working and brought back to life. The amp design is similar to the tower bell mono block amps you rebuilt a few years back so you should have no problem getting is sorted electrically. This amp would be a keeper in my opinion, they sound really good and hold their value for ever. Looking forward to the next installment, thank you again Tony for sharing you expertise and knowledge, I find these repair/rebuilds very interesting.
The transformers on my MC 2200 were in similar condition. I masked off the labels, lightly sanded and sprayed with black crinkle finish paint. They look great.
bondo & repaint Transformers.... can you print labels on a clear transparent sticker off your computer, then apply those to the original Macintosh metal label after you clean them?
I created Hamer guitars headstock logo years ago because they wouldn't sell me one. I stuck it on & sprayed polyurethane over it looks beautiful. You can easily match the Font & Print Size that McIntosh used.
If you don't see this in time, maybe you can use it on a later project. There's a chemical compound that machinists use to protect the surface of machined parts. If I recall, it's called cold blueing. It won't make the transformers look like new, but if applied carefully you could prevent further rust and minimize the contrast between the original paint and the worn areas without harming the labels. I would certainly suggest putting painters tape over the labels and applying the blueing with a cotton swab only to those areas you're treating. Good luck!
You wanted our input, so here is mine. This amplifier is an old work-horse. Let it live as such for the rest of its life. I'd just clean it up and make it look OK mechanically. Then make sure that it works perfectly instead! From the sofa you wont care a bout pitting if the sound is sweet and perfect!
i swear this is one of three of these i had at one point that i sold to someone in the harrisburg PA area. The missing driver boards and outputs are just like the ones i sold.. i wonder if this is one of them... how funny would that be....
Tony I would leave the transformers along you have the chassis looking pretty good just make it sound good. It's ashamed how some of the classic pieces end up being treated enjoy your videos you do great work.
Mask around the labels with frog tape and cut around the tape up to the metal label edge with an x-acto knife to make the edge more protected you can use clear nail polish to coat the edge. Then fill in the dents and paint.
I would touch up the transformers with an airbrush (masking the labels with a razor blade to not get the sharp edges) or use a rag and thinned tint ( Glasslinger style). If you do too good job on the autoformers the chassis gonna look worse than it is now (?). Need to look at the whole picture here 🤔. Great job so far. Thanks for sharing with us 🙂
Since you asked, my opinion is to use rust converter followed by a satin clear coat. Rust converter goes on clear and converts rust to a black primer. Satin clear coat wont be as shiny, perhaps a matte clear coat would be more like it. In the end you wont end up with a perfect finish but it wont be half rusty either. Leave the dents and the uneven finish and the clear coat wont bring it back to a new look but it should make a nice enough finish that it will match the aged look, you aren't going to re-chrome the base so it should match up fairly nice. If you don't like how well the converted rust looks next to the current black paint do some touch up with thinned black paint before the clear coat. If using a spray can to touch up the black finish, don't spray heavy next to the masked labels feather it in nice and easy followed by some 2000 grit sand paper then clear coat it. All in all it should be a quick process. Try testing one side of a transformer with just rust converter and clear coat to see how the finish looks, you really can't mess it up since it all will sand off anyway, or you can apply black paint over the clear coat and re-finish it. If you aren't going all out, this should provide decent results.
I would clean up the rust and pitting by cover the outside with Evaporust soaked paper towels overnight. Put them in a big bag to slow the evaporation. I've used this for items too big or awkward to soak, it works and won't remove the stickers. when that's done a clear satin lacquer will lock in the look.
Hi Tony. Given the pitted appearance of the chassis, I'd leave the transformers as they are. Dressing them up would just make the chassis look that much worse. I'd focus on performance and only be moderately concerned with appearance. Thanks for providing these instructional videos!!
Hello Tony ! I think I would let the transformers be as is as my first choice, but if I were to go further i would not remove the labels, just use the blue masking tape and be careful to make sure all edges of it are sealed on the label then use the canned spray paint on them.
I do this kind of work in vintage audio equipement, sometimes a see videos like yours to see some skills and technics, in your case i will take off the plates using an hot air blower to remove them, with the help of a thin metal layer.
It may be worth trying to brush rust converter on the affected areas. That would eliminate the rust and reduce future rust, and also tends to darken the bare metal. If that doesn't work, you'll basically be back where you are now.
I would clean them up and repaint all of the transformers. If you don't paint them you run the risk of them ending back it the shape that they are in. I understand the issue of the labels, but I would just go ahead and lose them especially since you aren't worried about the amp being all original. As for the shassis where you can I would clear coat it so to stop any future rusting. I really am anxious to see how this project turns out.
on the x-formers.... mix some black w/thinner to make a candy style paint.use a microfiber cloth and lightly wipe where the scratches happen to lessen the impact of the rust visually. it's a trick i use on bike frames when wear scratches happen but the owner wants to retain the patina of the original surface. it lets the age stay...much like the chrome on the chassis...but covers the rust. the same technique can be used on the chrome. the paint will stay in the pitting while the rest that is on the surface can be buffed off. enjoy the day!
Greetings: You could Xerox the labels, and reverse the image, use some printed circuit technique to transfer that image to a very thin board or similar idea, but I don't know what your threshold of pain is.
Tony! I would clean it up the best you can to keep it original; considering the chrome finish is pitted will fit more with the transformers after you do the basic cleaning.
I think that in this case the old "patina" gives it character. That goes for the pitted chrome, tattered transformer boxes, and even the worn bottom plate. You might want to remove the worst of the rust with something like Evaporust, but nothing that would change the worn paint, and then polish them up with a paste wax so that they look old and worn, but well kept in their dottage.
Not a fan of McIntosh due to the prices, but I would suggest painting the transformers after filling in any imperfections. Can you buy repro labels? I don't understand the patina thing either. I feel it would look best totally redone. That would include rechroming. Expensive stuff like that deserves going the extra mile.
Hi Tony The Transformer Labels are easy to do I have done it this way with labels before Ok I know the transformers’ are heavy. But You Scan the labels on then at about 300dpi should be fine and then import the images in to Photoshop or what you have. And you can now repair the scratch and any text on them. And reprint to photo paper or label paper and lacer them if you wish. Hope that helps Colin from Scotland
Tony, I would mask the label the best you can and paint the transformers, do not fill in the dents leave it. It would go along with the rest of the unit. I think you can do a great job on the masking. Paint it a flat black paint like you mention.
What about going with a Class A output stereo amplifier maybe not what McIntosh intended but would make for a much better sound and use the transformers for their intended purpose as output matching.
Ok , gee it is a tough decision. I think te rust is a problem for the future, you are making such an effort with everything else. I would bite the bullett and remove the labels and fill dents and re paint the transformers. I suspect the more you get into this the more you will want to restore . Good luck, great video series thankyou ! Grettings from OZ
Thanks for putting these videos out there. I would say given the overall condition trim the bad corners on the labels then mask and paint the transformers. I would also go for a hammer or crinkle finish paint that although not original would be a decent option. You're not trying to make the amp into something it's not as much as you're bringing something that was used and abused back to life for good service.
Can you live with not repainting the transformers, or is it going to always bother you? Go the masking route -you have a great touch fore painting, and can do the needed touchups, if you decide to go that route. It will be great no matter what option you choose.
Would you be keeping it or selling it? If selling, I'd say keep the patina and just restore the electronics. If you're keeping it then maybe a full repaint. A combination of satin black for transformers and either crackle/hammer finish on chassis could look good.
Well personally, I would remove the labels, sand and spray paint the transformer case gloss/semi-gloss black and polish the chrome plating (being careful not to polish it away). For the screw issue I would use chrome plated "acorn" style nuts and corresponding screws/bolts. On the transformer label subject, depending on time, mood and resources I see myself trying to etch them onto the metal before or after painting. Since it is not going to be "in original state" it can be "inspired by" :)
I wouldn't do anything that physical (dent repair, taking anything apart, etc.), I would consider some rust encapsulating paint to cover the rusty areas. That will prevent any further rusting, but will keep the as original as possible.This makes the assumption that the transformers are electrically good. It would be good if the paint had the same gloss level as the surrounding paint.
Tony do u know where to get a six 950 volume pot. Broken shaft someone drilled and out screw in hollow shaft and put knob on it. But wobbles. Half ass crap. Not my way to do things?
If you remove the labels it helps to use a very thin metal putty knife and heat it with a heat gun and carefully slide it straight behind them without pulling or prying out on them.
Scan the labels, make your own replacements. Take the old labels off, strip the paint off, straighten out the cans if you can (pun not intended) paint them so they look good enough to match the chassis, and put your own labels on. If you don't have time to make your own labels yet, at least you'll have the scans so you or someone else can make new labels later. I think it will look great with or without the labels. By the way the Commodore PET 2001 had a black and silver mylar label (at some point in time) and there are people who made replacement labels for that so it *is* possible.
I saw another guy working on one of these on another channel the the big electrolytics were blue on his also. So I'm guessing that IS factory for this amp.
Mech Resto and let it RUN. ( like a classic car thats TOO far gone to Restore but can be enjoyed as a driver)...Have the sound and let Patina tell ITs story. Love the videos and INFO U pass along. Thanks
No wonder the THD is so high when the output is via an auto transformer. I would have thought, these days you could (electrically) remove the transformer from the circuit and with minimal changes to the circuit feed it directly into 8 or even 4 ohms. With this arrangement power into 16 ohms would be much lower. I'm sure this would sound better with all that iron and copper removed. Just a thought!
Can your try touching up the transformer cans without a re-paint? My feelings on keeping a piece of equipment with its existing "patina" is the condition of said patina. If it looks like its been dragged through a ditch and hung up to dry then that's not a patina anymore. I would re-paint, if the labels were possible to replicate (or buy from McIntosh?)..., at a minimum try to minimize the hurt on that paint job by trying a touch-up. My $0.02 Cheers,
I would leave them alone, it's all about the sound quality of the McIntosh amp. Turn the lights down, put on a nice vinyl album and enjoy with a glass of wine.
I personally would make it presentable, not pristine. Tubes would be another story, then it would probably warrant further cosmetics. Looking forward to hearing Toe Jam on this one! Great project, Tony.
Tony, For what it’s worth my friend, I suggest giving those transformers a thoroughly good clean and leave them as they are. If possible, apply what ever product you feel will adequately prevent (or stop) further deterioration to their outer metal work. Why? To restore the transformers to a high standard, but leave the chassis in its present condition would.... I’ll stand aside so you can complete this sentence. Regards, Phil.
Hi Tony. I'm kinda late to reply but also had a chance to read thru comments. What if we think different. Being this a beaten up unit wouldn't be sacrilege to beef up with perhaps a "better design" perhaps from viewer inputs. Maybe a pair of flash tubes with a little smoke when you're cranking up the power🙉. Repaint the transformer with your own Logo you would be proud of... Of course this is only silliness 🐒. PS. I'm one of the lucky ones. Old Married Couple is still terrific !!!
I'd just scuff the existing paint up a little, mask the labels and spray paint them. That way you don't have quite so much contrast between the transformers, the bright and shiny chassis and what will be the nicely painted black cover. As for the temperature in the shop, I'd say you could turn the heat on a day ahead, do your painting and then set the heat back to whatever you keep it at. Shouldn't cost that much in utilities to do that.
If it were mine I would mask off the labels & repaint the transformers, or try scanning the labels, tidy the scans in paintshop & print new labels. You could clearcoat them after application.
Ditto to scanning and printing "new" labels for the transformers. I wonder if there is a laser printer which would accept very thin gauge aluminium... The artwork could theoretically be restored in a photo manipulation program.
It would be possible to take a high-res pictures of the labels, do a touchup in Photoshop and have them reprinted. But I'm not sure if a print shop would do that out of copyright concerns.
Scan or photograph the labels, crop the scan, have someone like Ponoko.com laser-etch the scanned image onto a new, thin sheet of metal. You could mask off the original labels and leave them in place, and attach the new facsimiles in a different location, for reference purposes if the originals deteriorate further and become unreadable.
@@jdmccorful Well since the option of restoring it back to original (that would be my first option), considering the prices units like this sells for, seemes to be out the window. Then why not go the totally opposite direction?
One could create an exact mask by laying a paper over the stickers and quickly slide a pencil over them. Then cut them 2 mm outside the relieff of the label. Now mask the labels with tape, glue a thin cardboard on the tape, then glue the slightly large cutout on the cardboard. Now spray only the label side carefully a couple light coates, no angles. This should provide softer edge to the mask, like a stencil application... Or one might not get close enough, and see the old paint still.
Hi Tony. If you are going to paint the bottom cover, you may as well do the transformers for uniformity. Mask the labels as they are characteristic McIntosh.
Very exciting series (y) Leave it as it is. Don't try to make it look like new, just preserve it. I would love to own it all beaten up, but in perfect working order
I think I would just leave them as is unless you were going to re-chrome the chassis. Since you said you aren’t doing that then leave the transformers as is too. That’s my opinion. Thanks for the videos!
Leave them as they are, so they match the chassis. That damaged label with really jar if the cans are painted. Overall the patina of age will be just right in my opinion. If you paint, I fear you will find yourself in a loop, where the chassis looks wrong without re-chroming - then the lettering needs doing, then............ :)
Personally, I'd make a high-res scan of the labels, get rid of them, and restore the transformer cases to my best ability. I'm sure there's a way to replicate the labels. Laser etching on thin aluminum would look great, I think. Shouldn't set you back significantly.
I have an idea for metal sticker replacements. Suppose you take a very good digital picture of existing transformer stickers in good shape. Tripod important for best results. Then print them on a laser printer. Apply to black repainted transformers. Next laminate the printed sticker replacements. An alternative to lamination could be a clear cote polyurethane applied to the transformers after attaching the sticker replacements. I used this picture lamination process to replace a missing Marantz 8B sticker. The photo I used was from the internet which reduced the quality.
Let nostalgia reign in on this project, I'm glad I came upon your videos by chance, God bless.
Hey if a job is worth doing its worth doing well, besides there is nothing worse than getting to the end of a project then wishing you had sprayed them. If you use a very thin contact (low tac) film you will hardly get a ridge around the edge of the label, if a shallow ridge still bothers you it can be polished out with a Dremel.
Or I would photgraph the labels, repair any damaged text on the computer then print new ones on adhesive backed film (can be done online). Remove the existing paint and labels, wirebrush, prime sand 600 grit then spay them. I would also powder coat or chrome the chassis.
Spray them or you will most probably regret later on in the build, probably when you are near to completing the project.
Great vid and thanks for sharing
👍👍👍👍👍
Personally, the “old” patina provides a bit of historical “provenance” to this vintage classic and in dealing with items of a vintage state of appearance many are of the opinion that the minimal amount of physical restoration actually increases the value of the item. I would consider a McIntosh device to be of historical significance in the development of consumer electronics and as such worthy of a proper restoration in line with its vintage status. My 2¢
Looking forward to future videos. Thanks Tony.
Restore to the point of preventing further decline, otherwise leave it in its natural state. Good luck. Thanks for your videos I really enjoy them
I like the idea of keeping the transformers as they are (cleaned and maybe clear coated). If it looks a little battered then it will be all the more interesting when the electronics are perfect and it produces a fantastic sound. (this repair/restoration - whatever it turns in to is great idea for a video series - thank you, your videos are a real pleasure to watch).
Paint it a black crackle. I did that with a Dennon receiver I restored. Take pics of labels, then reprint them,or take pics to a printer to make your labels.Hugh ,Chicago,IL
Ps - that is a finish,on the paint, very nice look, not related to audio.I bought paint @ Menards,spray cans,one tall one goes a very long way.You can re-paint bottom of amp cover with it also,it will tie in with x-formers...
I’m 3 years late .. but .. a lot of antique enthusiasts use a rustoleum like clear coat to seal semi rusty metal pieces, to keep the old look, but preserve the metal ...
As for the Xformers, I would use the thinned black paint method to freshen them up, yet keep the aged look. On your chrome finish, ball up aluminum foil and rub it across the pits. The pits will "cheese grate" the aluminum off the foil ball and will fill in the pits. Then re-polish the chrome. The deposited aluminum will almost look like chrome. It's not perfect, but it's far less noticeable since the pit gets filled in. It's an old used car dealers trick for chrome bumpers and motorcycle handlebars to improve the aesthetics. I've used this technique on plated diecast trim and chrome items with some degree of success. - Awesome vids!
Keep 'em coming!
With the electrical repairs you're doing, this amp will be great! The transformer cases reflect the history of this amp in in my view should be left as is. This amp will be a fine addition to an audio setup and the "patina" reflects its story!
Great work! Inspires me to work on my Mac. There is a fourth option - print up some new labels for the transformers, there may even be a service that can print you up some new metal ones.
Tony, nice job, my personal opinion is to mask around labels but use a low or semi gloss black acrylic laquer, it will help to hide imperfections on the suface, high gloss enhace the damage areas. Thanks for share your job, I really enjoy your videos, regards from Mexico
Looks like you already got deeper into this old MC2100 than you originally planned. The transformer labels should be reproducible, we used the same base material at work to make labels, it's an aluminum photo sensitive material that is exposed and processed (developed) as I recall but unfortunately I'm retired now and have no access to the materials or processing equipment or chemicals. There must be someone out there doing it, a sharp photograph printed with high contrast could be used as a template for the artwork. Short of all that a good masking job and paint should make the external finish of the transformers acceptable.
This rebuild is moving along quickly, can't wait to see it working and brought back to life. The amp design is similar to the tower bell mono block amps you rebuilt a few years back so you should have no problem getting is sorted electrically. This amp would be a keeper in my opinion, they sound really good and hold their value for ever. Looking forward to the next installment, thank you again Tony for sharing you expertise and knowledge, I find these repair/rebuilds very interesting.
The transformers on my MC 2200 were in similar condition. I masked off the labels, lightly sanded and sprayed with black crinkle finish paint. They look great.
bondo & repaint Transformers.... can you print labels on a clear transparent sticker off your computer, then apply those to the original Macintosh metal label after you clean them?
That's what I was thinking about the labels. I think it would look just fine.
I created Hamer guitars headstock logo years ago because they wouldn't sell me one. I stuck it on & sprayed polyurethane over it looks beautiful.
You can easily match the Font & Print Size that McIntosh used.
If you don't see this in time, maybe you can use it on a later project. There's a chemical compound that machinists use to protect the surface of machined parts. If I recall, it's called cold blueing. It won't make the transformers look like new, but if applied carefully you could prevent further rust and minimize the contrast between the original paint and the worn areas without harming the labels. I would certainly suggest putting painters tape over the labels and applying the blueing with a cotton swab only to those areas you're treating. Good luck!
You wanted our input, so here is mine. This amplifier is an old work-horse. Let it live as such for the rest of its life. I'd just clean it up and make it look OK mechanically. Then make sure that it works perfectly instead! From the sofa you wont care a bout pitting if the sound is sweet and perfect!
i swear this is one of three of these i had at one point that i sold to someone in the harrisburg PA area. The missing driver boards and outputs are just like the ones i sold.. i wonder if this is one of them... how funny would that be....
Tony I would leave the transformers along you have the chassis looking pretty good just make it sound good. It's ashamed how some of the classic pieces end up being treated enjoy your videos you do great work.
Really enjoying this 👍👍✌ looking forward to seeing the next one.
Make it a "ratrod amplifier", clean and clearcoat all metal components and add your personal finishing touches. Love your videos!
Mask around the labels with frog tape and cut around the tape up to the metal label edge with an x-acto knife to make the edge more protected you can use clear nail polish to coat the edge. Then fill in the dents and paint.
I would touch up the transformers with an airbrush (masking the labels with a razor blade to not get the sharp edges) or use a rag and thinned tint ( Glasslinger style). If you do too good job on the autoformers the chassis gonna look worse than it is now (?). Need to look at the whole picture here 🤔. Great job so far. Thanks for sharing with us 🙂
Since you asked, my opinion is to use rust converter followed by a satin clear coat. Rust converter goes on clear and converts rust to a black primer. Satin clear coat wont be as shiny, perhaps a matte clear coat would be more like it. In the end you wont end up with a perfect finish but it wont be half rusty either. Leave the dents and the uneven finish and the clear coat wont bring it back to a new look but it should make a nice enough finish that it will match the aged look, you aren't going to re-chrome the base so it should match up fairly nice. If you don't like how well the converted rust looks next to the current black paint do some touch up with thinned black paint before the clear coat. If using a spray can to touch up the black finish, don't spray heavy next to the masked labels feather it in nice and easy followed by some 2000 grit sand paper then clear coat it. All in all it should be a quick process.
Try testing one side of a transformer with just rust converter and clear coat to see how the finish looks, you really can't mess it up since it all will sand off anyway, or you can apply black paint over the clear coat and re-finish it. If you aren't going all out, this should provide decent results.
I like it the way they are. Stays in line with the rest
I would clean up the rust and pitting by cover the outside with Evaporust soaked paper towels overnight. Put them in a big bag to slow the evaporation. I've used this for items too big or awkward to soak, it works and won't remove the stickers. when that's done a clear satin lacquer will lock in the look.
Hi Tony. Given the pitted appearance of the chassis, I'd leave the transformers as they are. Dressing them up would just make the chassis look that much worse. I'd focus on performance and only be moderately concerned with appearance. Thanks for providing these instructional videos!!
Hello Tony ! I think I would let the transformers be as is as my first choice, but if I were to go further i would not remove the labels, just use the blue masking tape and be careful to make sure all edges of it are sealed on the label then use the canned spray paint on them.
I do this kind of work in vintage audio equipement, sometimes a see videos like yours to see some skills and technics, in your case i will take off the plates using an hot air blower to remove them, with the help of a thin metal layer.
You can just do a touch up job with a rag and thinned paint, they will look good enough.
Considering the state of the chassis, I feel it would be best to just leave them alone. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to the next video.
It may be worth trying to brush rust converter on the affected areas. That would eliminate the rust and reduce future rust, and also tends to darken the bare metal. If that doesn't work, you'll basically be back where you are now.
I would clean them up and repaint all of the transformers. If you don't paint them you run the risk of them ending back it the shape that they are in. I understand the issue of the labels, but I would just go ahead and lose them especially since you aren't worried about the amp being all original. As for the shassis where you can I would clear coat it so to stop any future rusting.
I really am anxious to see how this project turns out.
on the x-formers.... mix some black w/thinner to make a candy style paint.use a microfiber cloth and lightly wipe where the scratches happen to lessen the impact of the rust visually. it's a trick i use on bike frames when wear scratches happen but the owner wants to retain the patina of the original surface. it lets the age stay...much like the chrome on the chassis...but covers the rust. the same technique can be used on the chrome. the paint will stay in the pitting while the rest that is on the surface can be buffed off. enjoy the day!
Greetings: You could Xerox the labels, and reverse the image, use some printed circuit technique to transfer that image to a very thin board or similar idea, but I don't know what your threshold of pain is.
Tony, I'd mask the labels and paint them leaving to dents and such so it still has the older used look.
Tony! I would clean it up the best you can to keep it original; considering the chrome finish is pitted will fit more with the transformers after you do the basic cleaning.
I think that in this case the old "patina" gives it character. That goes for the pitted chrome, tattered transformer boxes, and even the worn bottom plate. You might want to remove the worst of the rust with something like Evaporust, but nothing that would change the worn paint, and then polish them up with a paste wax so that they look old and worn, but well kept in their dottage.
Not a fan of McIntosh due to the prices, but I would suggest painting the transformers after filling in any imperfections. Can you buy repro labels? I don't understand the patina thing either. I feel it would look best totally redone. That would include rechroming. Expensive stuff like that deserves going the extra mile.
Hi Tony
The Transformer Labels are easy to do I have done it this way with labels before
Ok I know the transformers’ are heavy. But You Scan the labels on then at about 300dpi should be fine and then import the images in to Photoshop or what you have. And you can now repair the scratch and any text on them. And reprint to photo paper or label paper and lacer them if you wish.
Hope that helps
Colin from Scotland
Tony, I would mask the label the best you can and paint the transformers, do not fill in the dents leave it. It would go along with the rest of the unit. I think you can do a great job on the masking. Paint it a flat black paint like you mention.
Leave 'em rough. As long as it's functionally perfect. Consider it a 'relic'. If it was a guitar amp you could charge more for the rust.
Phil Hunter yeah I’d just rub some oil/WD40 on that rust and leave it be
What about going with a Class A output stereo amplifier maybe not what McIntosh intended but would make for a much better sound and use the transformers for their intended purpose as output matching.
Ok , gee it is a tough decision. I think te rust is a problem for the future, you are making such an effort with everything else. I would bite the bullett and remove the labels and fill dents and re paint the transformers. I suspect the more you get into this the more you will want to restore . Good luck, great video series thankyou ! Grettings from OZ
Thanks for putting these videos out there. I would say given the overall condition trim the bad corners on the labels then mask and paint the transformers. I would also go for a hammer or crinkle finish paint that although not original would be a decent option. You're not trying to make the amp into something it's not as much as you're bringing something that was used and abused back to life for good service.
Can you live with not repainting the transformers, or is it going to always bother you? Go the masking route -you have a great touch fore painting, and can do the needed touchups, if you decide to go that route. It will be great no matter what option you choose.
Diamond in the rough look. Maybe a sort-of audio rat rod?
Yo Tony, I'd mask the labels and paint them leaving to dents and such so it still has the older used look.
Would you be keeping it or selling it? If selling, I'd say keep the patina and just restore the electronics. If you're keeping it then maybe a full repaint. A combination of satin black for transformers and either crackle/hammer finish on chassis could look good.
If you can match the color, how about some car touch-up-paint on the scratches/scuffs?
Have you done a shop tour, and if you have what's the video?
Well personally, I would remove the labels, sand and spray paint the transformer case gloss/semi-gloss black and polish the chrome plating (being careful not to polish it away). For the screw issue I would use chrome plated "acorn" style nuts and corresponding screws/bolts.
On the transformer label subject, depending on time, mood and resources I see myself trying to etch them onto the metal before or after painting.
Since it is not going to be "in original state" it can be "inspired by" :)
I would leave them as is maybe give them a protective clear coat, but i think it would look odd with restored transformers and a non restored chassis.
Tony if you paint them they will look like an off match with the chassis, just touch them up so they are a used aged match.
It would depend on if you want to transform the unit into a classic or a unique Tony original. And at what cost in money and time.
I wouldn't do anything that physical (dent repair, taking anything apart, etc.), I would consider some rust encapsulating paint to cover the rusty areas. That will prevent any further rusting, but will keep the as original as possible.This makes the assumption that the transformers are electrically good. It would be good if the paint had the same gloss level as the surrounding paint.
Not I got the part on capacitor - does capacitance increase when they dry up and before they fail completely?
Tony do u know where to get a six 950 volume pot. Broken shaft someone drilled and out screw in hollow shaft and put knob on it. But wobbles. Half ass crap. Not my way to do things?
If you remove the labels it helps to use a very thin metal putty knife and heat it with a heat gun and carefully slide it straight behind them without pulling or prying out on them.
Scan the labels, make your own replacements. Take the old labels off, strip the paint off, straighten out the cans if you can (pun not intended) paint them so they look good enough to match the chassis, and put your own labels on. If you don't have time to make your own labels yet, at least you'll have the scans so you or someone else can make new labels later. I think it will look great with or without the labels. By the way the Commodore PET 2001 had a black and silver mylar label (at some point in time) and there are people who made replacement labels for that so it *is* possible.
I saw another guy working on one of these on another channel the the big electrolytics were blue on his also. So I'm guessing that IS factory for this amp.
Stop the rust, clear gloss coat, polished up nicely 🐨
Leave it. Greetings from The Netherlands.
Can replicate the labels on label stock, strip and restore the cases on the transformers?
Thanks Tony! I would just clean the transformers up the best that I could and save the labels.
Mech Resto and let it RUN. ( like a classic car thats TOO far gone to Restore but can be enjoyed as a driver)...Have the sound and let Patina tell ITs story. Love the videos and INFO U pass along. Thanks
No wonder the THD is so high when the output is via an auto transformer. I would have thought, these days you could (electrically) remove the transformer from the circuit and with minimal changes to the circuit feed it directly into 8 or even 4 ohms. With this arrangement power into 16 ohms would be much lower. I'm sure this would sound better with all that iron and copper removed. Just a thought!
It's all about the patina...worst case you can sell it to Chumlee on Pawn Stars.
Can your try touching up the transformer cans without a re-paint?
My feelings on keeping a piece of equipment with its existing "patina" is the condition of said patina. If it looks like its been dragged through a ditch and hung up to dry then that's not a patina anymore. I would re-paint, if the labels were possible to replicate (or buy from McIntosh?)..., at a minimum try to minimize the hurt on that paint job by trying a touch-up.
My $0.02
Cheers,
I would leave them alone, it's all about the sound quality of the McIntosh amp. Turn the lights down, put on a nice vinyl album and enjoy with a glass of wine.
I personally would make it presentable, not pristine. Tubes would be another story, then it would probably warrant further cosmetics. Looking forward to hearing Toe Jam on this one! Great project, Tony.
Tony,
For what it’s worth my friend, I suggest giving those transformers a thoroughly good clean and leave them as they are. If possible, apply what ever product you feel will adequately prevent (or stop) further deterioration to their outer metal work.
Why?
To restore the transformers to a high standard, but leave the chassis in its present condition would.... I’ll stand aside so you can complete this sentence.
Regards, Phil.
Hi Tony. I'm kinda late to reply but also had a chance to read thru comments. What if we think different. Being this a beaten up unit wouldn't be sacrilege to beef up with perhaps a "better design" perhaps from viewer inputs. Maybe a pair of flash tubes with a little smoke when you're cranking up the power🙉. Repaint the transformer with your own Logo you would be proud of...
Of course this is only silliness 🐒.
PS. I'm one of the lucky ones.
Old Married Couple is still terrific !!!
I'd just scuff the existing paint up a little, mask the labels and spray paint them. That way you don't have quite so much contrast between the transformers, the bright and shiny chassis and what will be the nicely painted black cover. As for the temperature in the shop, I'd say you could turn the heat on a day ahead, do your painting and then set the heat back to whatever you keep it at. Shouldn't cost that much in utilities to do that.
If it were mine I would mask off the labels & repaint the transformers, or try scanning the labels, tidy the scans in paintshop & print new labels.
You could clearcoat them after application.
Ditto to scanning and printing "new" labels for the transformers. I wonder if there is a laser printer which would accept very thin gauge aluminium... The artwork could theoretically be restored in a photo manipulation program.
It would be possible to take a high-res pictures of the labels, do a touchup in Photoshop and have them reprinted. But I'm not sure if a print shop would do that out of copyright concerns.
I vote to keep it original. It has a great look even with the wear.
Leave them alone because they won't match the chassis age. It will all match in the end. Great video!
You could have reproduction label done in vinyl to the exact size and then paint a clear layer over them !
I would say do some touch up to the transformers to hide the worst of the scars then clear coat them to prevent any further rusting or damage.
Scan or photograph the labels, crop the scan, have someone like Ponoko.com laser-etch the scanned image onto a new, thin sheet of metal. You could mask off the original labels and leave them in place, and attach the new facsimiles in a different location, for reference purposes if the originals deteriorate further and become unreadable.
Based on what you’re doing with the chassis, I’d leave the transformers as-is.
You can make new labels on laser CNC cutter.
What about a "Pimp my Amp" project?
Cool painting, LED's etc.
Think outside the box.
The Second best choice!
@@jdmccorful Well since the option of restoring it back to original (that would be my first option), considering the prices units like this sells for, seemes to be out the window. Then why not go the totally opposite direction?
One could create an exact mask by laying a paper over the stickers and quickly slide a pencil over them. Then cut them 2 mm outside the relieff of the label. Now mask the labels with tape, glue a thin cardboard on the tape, then glue the slightly large cutout on the cardboard. Now spray only the label side carefully a couple light coates, no angles. This should provide softer edge to the mask, like a stencil application... Or one might not get close enough, and see the old paint still.
Hi Tony. If you are going to paint the bottom cover, you may as well do the transformers for uniformity. Mask the labels as they are characteristic McIntosh.
Very exciting series (y) Leave it as it is. Don't try to make it look like new, just preserve it. I would love to own it all beaten up, but in perfect working order
I would clear coat the labels then mask them and scuff the cases and paint them.
If you can find good pictures of the labels, print them out and transfer them to thin metal like when DIYing pcb's. Or leave them as is. Nice patina.
I think I would just leave them as is unless you were going to re-chrome the chassis. Since you said you aren’t doing that then leave the transformers as is too. That’s my opinion. Thanks for the videos!
I just cleaned mine and clear coated to prevent more rust
That's my vote too. Clean, clear coat a thin layer and leave as original as possible.
I'd rather not hide anything... Try and show its character. It is what it is!
Leave them as they are, so they match the chassis. That damaged label with really jar if the cans are painted. Overall the patina of age will be just right in my opinion.
If you paint, I fear you will find yourself in a loop, where the chassis looks wrong without re-chroming - then the lettering needs doing, then............ :)
If you are not going to fully restore the Xformer cans, I would rub them out and polish them.
Another vote for rocking the patina. It is not perfect, so I would embrace that aspect.
You should do bondo and paint them
Personally, I'd make a high-res scan of the labels, get rid of them, and restore the transformer cases to my best ability. I'm sure there's a way to replicate the labels. Laser etching on thin aluminum would look great, I think. Shouldn't set you back significantly.
You could also just clear coat them to preserve the patina and stop rust.
If McIntosh still has the transformers for sale, they must have the labels also. If not, make a copy of the labels for a stencil.
I have an idea for metal sticker replacements. Suppose you take a very good digital picture of existing transformer stickers in good shape. Tripod important for best results. Then print them on a laser printer. Apply to black repainted transformers. Next laminate the printed sticker replacements. An alternative to lamination could be a clear cote polyurethane applied to the transformers after attaching the sticker replacements. I used this picture lamination process to replace a missing Marantz 8B sticker. The photo I used was from the internet which reduced the quality.
At 1st I was thinking repaint and suggest making or obtaining new labels. But, considering your end game, leave em be!
I wouldn't bother putting lipstick on a pig 😉
Only thing that really matters is its sonic performance.