Land Rover Defender 90/110 Buyers guide (1990-2016) Avoid buying a broken Defender (Tdi, TD5, V8)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ม.ค. 2025
- Land Rover Defender 90/110 1990-2016 Buyers guide for 200Tdi, 300Tdi, 2.5-litre TD5, 2.4-Litre Duratorq Puma, 2.4-Litre Duratorq Puma, 3.9 Rover V8, 5.0-Litre JLR V8, 2.8-Litre M52 BMW motor. Avoid buying a broken Land Rover Defender 90 or 110 by reading our maintenance and recalls guide for both owners and buyers. Find the Land Rover Defender 90 that can go off-road and on-road without breaking the bank. Avoid the mistakes of buying a broken Land Rover as a project and attempting to fix a broken Defender 110. This buyer's guide covers the Land Rover Defender from 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, and 2016 in all trims. We show the common reliability faults and what you need to know before buying a Land Rover Defender. We also discuss MPG, BHP, and the dates engines arrived or were discontinued. We also highlight the 2007 and 2012 update of the Land Rover Defender 90 and 110 and how it changed from the earlier series Land Rover. Owners of Land Rover Defender vehicles may also find our guide helpful for its list of things to look out for including how reliable the car is.
The issues discussed in our buyer's guide to the Land Rover Defender include chassis corrosion and rust, brake pipe issues, cooling issues and hub bolts.
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Anyway leant to be your agent in Zimbabwean
Your summing up comments about Defender ownership hit the nail squarely on the head. And if by chance you do happen to be stopped at the side of the road with the bonnet up for some reason it probably won't be long before another Defender driver pulls up to see if they can help!
Had one for 26 years. A 110 turbo diesel, re engined w/ a 200tdi.
10km/l. with much better performance. Could also run on sunfloweroil.
Noise is a probleem ( no phone calls while driving), as is rust..
In my budget I’m looking at a 300tdi or TD5 but found a few 200tdi , my gut is TD5 but wondering if 300tdi maybe a easier fix option but the price has gone crazy in 2023 but I still feel it’s money we’ll spend some modern cars are just awful these maybe basic , but it does what it sez on the tin and simple to work on
I sold my 300tdi after doing all the jobs. Had it for 9 years of daily driving. Now i have my weekends back
Thanks for sharing so much information in a single video. Very informative.
Really appreciate comments like this, thanks 👍
Glad i sold my td4 2.4 110, dont get me wrong i still like Defenders but overall every little noise or new noise it made..thinking something is going to break again or is breaking…had to replace the injector-seals around 100tkm..had also oem clutch failure torsen springs..output shaft failure…and no cant compare that to my 80series land cruiser with 0 failures..and that car is 15yrs older than my 110 was. Just my 2cents..
Toyota tuff
As new as the 2005 model used to be, I saw the problem was the leak of brake fluid from clutch pedal and also the noise from the rear suspension ball joint when release the clutch after the first or reverse gear is engaged. Otherwise it a good vehicle I can't afford to loose.
Sliding glass channels . modify keep a rail before fitting glass channels. I have done that and it really works better. No rattle and channels last longer
Intermediate gear shaft modify it Keep castine ring on case and fit bearing.
Hello. Greetings from Paris ! I own a defender 90 Td5 as a second car. Never been able to high rev it and up shift quickly like a Golf or a sport car. The gearbox doesn’t like it and blocks or grind the agressive up shift. Especially 1 to 2d, 2 to 3d. If I up shift slowly on low revs, everything is smooth. Gearbox oil is MTF94. Many thx for your feedbacks. Merci ! Julien
Salut Julien. Do you know the condition/age of the clutch? The low revs may be closely matching engine speed to gearbox speed on shift meaning the clutch is taking a lot less load, (technically you can shift without the clutch if you can match the revs - like very old cars prior to the common use of synchromesh) but at high speed shifts, a clutch in poor condition and dealing with a larger change in engine to gearbox speed could give a similar issue. If you are not getting a crunch or grind in gears at low speed it is less likely that the gearbox has splines that have worn to the point of poor contact, but this could be a problem, although it would seem unlikely, especially if there weren't metal filings found when you changed the gearbox oil 👍
French translation -
Salut Julien. Connaissez-vous l'état/l'âge de l'embrayage ? Les bas régimes peuvent correspondre étroitement au régime moteur et au régime de la boîte de vitesses lors du changement de vitesse, ce qui signifie que l'embrayage prend beaucoup moins de charge (techniquement, vous pouvez changer de vitesse sans l'embrayage si vous pouvez faire correspondre le régime - comme les très vieilles voitures avant l'utilisation courante de la synchronisation), mais lors des changements de vitesse à grande vitesse, un embrayage en mauvais état et confronté à un changement plus important du régime moteur/boîte de vitesses pourrait donner un problème similaire. Si vous n'obtenez pas de craquement ou de grincement dans les vitesses à basse vitesse, il est moins probable que la boîte de vitesses ait des cannelures usées au point de mauvais contact, mais cela pourrait être un problème, même si cela semble peu probable, surtout s'il n'y avait pas de limaille de métal trouvée lors du changement d'huile de la boîte de vitesses 👍
@@themilesdrivenHello. Thx for your quick reply. Clutch is in good condition. MTF94 fresh. No grinding while downshifting. Only on high revs from 1st to 2d. If I up shift below 10 km/h to 2d, all is smooth. Otherwise, I have to do 1st, neutral for a millisecond, 2d. Merci 😊
If the flywheel is also in good condition then it is probably worth speaking to a gearbox specialist as it is sounding more like an internal gearbox issue, likely the first gear teeth but could be anything, there are gearbox oil lubrication solutions you can buy, which is worth a try as it is cheap and easy to do and might help 👍
Si le volant moteur est également en bon état, il vaut probablement la peine de parler à un spécialiste de la boîte de vitesses, car cela ressemble davantage à un problème de boîte de vitesses interne, probablement les premières dents de l'engrenage, mais cela pourrait être n'importe quoi, il existe des solutions de lubrification à l'huile de boîte de vitesses que vous pouvez acheter, ce qui vaut la peine d'être essayé car c'est bon marché et facile à faire et cela pourrait aider
Better than money in the bank
What do you mean? As in, a defender is a good investment?
@@akhan1335 yes, they are one of the only cars ever that commonly appreciate in value rather than depreciate.
Water tank remove from where it is. Because if trumpet bracks it damage the water and the water leaks. And the cylinder head gets damaged. There are some other faults . next time will mention it. Am land Rover Mechanic here in Tanzania since 1972. I owned my first Land Rover in 1973 I was 109 middle lights head lamp pickup. Most of the people here goes for land Cruiser Toyota. Because of land Rover needs to much maintenance. And brakedown on safaris. I would like you to improve your land Rover so to be on market again..a
Hub bearing is faulty on T.d. 300 . The distance is too close to each bearings. It's always needs to change bearings. And adjust hub bearing.
I just love it.
Lock diff on land Rover is failure. I have to modify. Because there lots of backlash. And fitt Discovery rear differential.
Very informative.
I’m looking at my first defender. I love the classic defender. Can you advise which one is the best version to go for with limited issues? I found a 2013 110 utility wagon defender (diesel) which looks lovely
Series 3 2.5
Would you buy an 85 if it was in descent condition?
I recommend.on T.d.i 300. Vacuum pump is failure. Why not fixing T.d.i 200.
Wonderful video and wonderful car! I only have a doubt: the hardtop is removable or not?
Keep up the content!!
On the 90 model there should be 16 bolts holding the hardtop on, with these removed the hardtop can be removed. It is also possible to remove the 110 hardtop but there may be more bolts/fixings 👍
Well it's good and very cormfiort and it's good for using in the farms every way please .can you give me the job as a advert agent for your good land rover cars please assist me less using defender 1998 lno it very well in happy to it and rather new models you manufactures. I want rework with you
Water leakage on doors modify .on T.d.i diffenders
Doors locks needs modified. It's big headache
Remove inter cooler on land Rover. It's big head ach it collecting engine oil. And also too many hose pipe.and steel pipes connctions
What about the 2.0 MPi engine? Do you know anything about it ?
We were going to include it but found so few examples it was hard to get good information about overall common areas to look for. Three things,.
It's not common in a Defender but the 2.0MPI was used in the Discovery so you will be able to get engine parts (although if the exhaust needs replacing you will need to fabricate one).
The previous use will likely have been police/emergency services so if buying one check the chassis and suspension and expect to find work
Last, overall fuel economy may be only slightly more than a V8 although in an urban environment it should be better, People say they are underpowered but few have driven them.
👍
I'm in the process of a 2.0mpi overhaul and restoration. So far so good. The mpi is a good engine in the D90 and max speed is around 70mph. 134 hp and torque
Yes know everything that's issued leant to work with you
Yes
@@themilesdrivenclan drive wear ever ocean go without problem
my 2002 Defender 90 shows 90kw/122 bhp
To overcome poor braking on a Defender - fit a double diaphragm servo. You won't know yourself.
What about the 2.8i M52 engine.
It's in the video, first of the petrol motors we cover 👍
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Perentie 6x6 is the answer...
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Keep a minimum of £2000 for repairs I can guarantee you will need it . From 20 years experience
why are you calling the engine a motor?
The terms are interchanged in english, when the Internal Combustion Engine was first created it was actually referred to commonly as a 'motor' in an attempt to distinguish it from the steam engine 👍
Uh...tremendous check list. I’m buying a Grenadier!
saving for a grenadier because over years you will almost get there owning an old land rover
Land Rover was stupid to redesign this into that turd they try to pass off as a vehicle. Everyone says that new defender is on road only. It breaks down all the time off-road.
Have you actually owned or even driven the new Defender off road, to come to this conclusion?
@@oldcargeezer no, online reviews only.
Mine has been faultless. On the forums there's been a few horror stories, mainly with the earlier 2.0 litre versions. But overall it seems okay. l certainly hope so, as l plan to keep mine.
And get the ones with the bulge in the bonnets, better engines
Lots of good info but also lots of misinformation.
We do try and make sure every detail in our videos is thoroughly researched,(which is why they take so long to produce) if we have got something wrong please let us know so we can double check 👍
🤩🤩🇧🇭
T.d.i 5 defenders are engine failure. Change and fit T.d.i 200 engines with more horse power . And remove electronic and make it simple wiring. For Africa..
Avoid, avoid, avoid, run like hell, kill it with fire 😊
What a ridiculous comment series 1-3 were never called Defender. Neither was the defender itself at first. Probably better for people to watch another channel
Strange comment to make and even stranger to judge an entire channel on one sentence. We simplified the original Land Rover naming convention in our opening line because so many people know the iconic shape by the name Defender. Much like many people still call their vacuum cleaner a Hoover. We try to keep things simple for the broadest audience and spend a lot of time trying to help people figure out the important things to note. That is what this channel should be judged on.
If we want to be pedantic the actual naming convention is The Land Rover, then Land Rover Series 1. 2, 3. Then Land Rover 90, 110,. 127 and then the Land Rover Defender 90, 110, 130 and then to be fully correct we shouldn't have said Land Rover Defeneder military version but instead the Land Rover Wolf.
All this would distract from the aim of our video.
No mention of the 3.5 liter V8?!?!
A fair point since the 3.5 does continue until '95. We intend to do another buyers guide for earlier Defenders and this will cover the 3.5 V8 as we wanted to limit this one to the 'late' generation of the classic design (1990-2016).
Due to the short time span the 3.5 V8 was offered in this last 16 year run we decided to include it in our next Defender guide for earlier models 👍
@@themilesdriven actually continues even later than that. I have a 1998 110 with the original carbureted 3.5 liter v8 with a 5 speed manual.
U.S market model? Great to hear you've got a late one. Any major issues?
Looking at LHD sales data the 3.5 went on longer than we thought, RHD sales data tails off the 3.5 in the early 90's, we should have double checked both, our mistake. We'll try and add some details of the 3.5 on an upcoming podcast to help anyone looking for the 3.5 on the later Defenders
Very good short summary.
There are so many changes through the years, it literally would take volumes to cover everything.
Nicely done.👍
This video is the real deal