This is so cool, I have been wanting to build something like this at some point and this design is practically what I had in mind. Cool to see someone actually build it.
Yep; there is torque at the center axle, but low rpm. Hopefully I can gear it up next to the circumference, but lower torque there. There's a give and take with torque and rpm.
@@doubleMinnovations How the turbine works: Rotatable shutters mounted on a circular disk automatically open when directed into the wind, irregardless of the wind's direction. Pairs of upper and lower shutters are geared together. The lower shutter acts as a counterweight to the upper shutter. The bottom shutter opens in the downward direction and its weight helps to lift the upper shutter in the upward direction, as the wind applies an opening force against both shutters. When the shutters reach the vertical position, stops prevent them from opening further and the force of the wind is transferred from the open shutters to the circular disk. And the circular disk is attached to the vertical axis for power output. The circular disk, shutters, and outer vertical axis rotate together. The outer vertical axis is mounted via bearings over an inner vertical axis that is stationery. The shutters are blown closed by the wind (no stops in the opposite direction) as they reverse direction during their rotation and move into the wind on the opposite side of the wind turbine. When the wind is not blowing, the shutters open by gravity because the lower shutter is weighted to be slightly heavier than the upper shutter and it therefore can cause the upper shutter to open via the force of gravity as the two shutters are geared together. Wind blows against the open shutters and the open shutters with stops apply a force against the disk, but the open shutters with no stops (opposite side going into the wind) merely close due to the force of the wind (not applying a force against the disk) and the wind turbine begins spinning no matter what direction the wind comes from. Operation of the turbine is remarkably quiet as compared to the appearance of the video due to biasing members that absorb the shock of the opening and closing and provide useful energy output. Background: Robert D. Hunt has designed an innovative new disk-style vertical axis wind turbine or hydro-turbine that produces far less drag than does a conventional horizontal axis wind turbine that has vertical propeller type rotor blades of which the entire circumference of the vertical blades, known as the "swept area", creates drag. An additional negative aspect of conventional wind turbines is that they must be directed into the wind, which is not necessary with Hunt's new vertical axis turbine.
i am from Texas, and I am very excited about your build. You have done a great job building this and I cant wait to see what the power output you get from it.
You should look into the Amish air concepts, they use turbines to pump air itself into tanks, then use that air to spin motors in various tools, whole shops ran on air.. You have easily a large enough surface area to spin a pump, maybe not an electric generator but a pump most definitely.. best of luck!
I hope you will get some watts out of this big construction! In my country, Latvia, I know two men`s, who try to make this type of WG. One man make a huge construction - about 5 meters high and spend about 20 000 Lats in old currency which is about 28 000 Euros... and get nothing! It stands as dead tree... Another man take long axis and make skinny (not wide) screw design and get very little and it just rotates in the wind for decoration... P.S. Wind Generators for home "brewers" is not easy task. At first it is not efficient - one part rotates, second part break rotation... In old times I think about WG DIY, but no. Fingers crossed! :)
@@doubleMinnovations What do you have planned for to convert the rotation to electricity? My MPPT needs 125V to kick on.
23 วันที่ผ่านมา
A roll of 2 foot aluminum flashing might be cheaper and easier to apply along with being lighter in weight.. Stretching Tyvek might be even cheaper but not as rigid.. Harnessing the movement from the center post would put less drag on the movement and having a clutch that would only connect the generator or alternator to the hub if the speed was high enough would also be a good idea.. Something like a clutch from an old weed whipper or chainsaw on a shaft that would be after a 200? to 1 ratio belt and pully or gear set..
I always wondered if you could take some 1x's and split PVC pipes lengthwise to make long scoops along the 1x's. We used to buy the 1x's at 16 foot lengths, so greater than 30 foot radius would be easily sourced for materials. Could use little chunks of PEX tubing for spacers to mount the PVC with a gap off the 1x's. Run wires tip to tip to control flexion from the torque. It would rotate slow but the torque would be very high at the center.
Im bench testing a smart drive Lg washer motor 3phase no rewiring just two parallelbridge rectifiers charging 3 1000uf caps 250v (should be higher ) and mechanical limit switch on rotor discharging direct in batteries and coils for testing , i can spin with one finger and 1 rpm is enough power in the caps to kill you or send ya on your ass at best , you could put 20 of these on that beast you constructed and have enough to power you and all your neighbors 😅 GREAT JOB MAN ! i have a few videos on my channel of some tests , thx for sharing
I planned this to be a temporary build while I find out what is workable, and why I used the cheapest materials. I did coat the top side of the OSB with a foundation coating I had left over, like I did the other exposed lumber. I didn't do the edge yet; or I may use that edge for a powertrain track. Still considering options...
They probably would, but I think a little more difficult to work with. They tend to twist if they aren't cladded with something. Thanks for the interest!
A 12' axial flux poses a challenge in keeping the gap between rotor and stator consistent and narrow. He could probably do radial flux with less variation across the gap allowing for thinner gap. Have you seen thingap motor stator? The winding type is faulhabor style radial flux.
I guess you don't really read these comments. I made some suggestions on your previous video, if you looked at the videos that I suggested in the comment. Yes I know that the videos that I suggested in my comment may have potentially been considered spam and you didn't look at, however, they were actually videos to explain ways to make this style wind generator more efficient.
I reply to some comments when there is time. Don't take it personally if I don't, or don't use some suggestion. If they are not deleted they are there for others to read. I don't delete unless comments are offensive, not sure when TH-cam deletes.
Your vawt turbine blades are more of a lift type than a drag type. Picture sail boats tacking across the wind bush sail boats throug water faster than the wind. Your turbine's tip speed/wind speed ratio TSR should be greater than 1. The other type of VAWT uses drag like aniometer cups or savonious turbines, have a TSR less than 1. Despite the diameter, it appears like your turbine is not spinning fast enoughb in 5-10mph winds. I think the number of blades in your design is creating so much turbulance that it reduce the efficency. HAWT would reduce the number of blades to 1 for better efficency if it weren't for harmonics vibrations with the suporting pole 2 or three blades seems to be a sufficent compromise. Maybe your turbine might perform equallly well or better with 3-6 blades rather than what you have now. Reducing the number of blades will also allow you to take lots of weight off your turbine and make it cheaper to reproduce. If the ground were sloped up to the turbine blades, then the wind has to speed up a little to get over the artifical hill. VAWTs with top and bottom caps tend to perform better than without because the block wind energy from escaping out the top and bottom which allows the downwind side of the turbine to capture more wind energy. Excessive weight also reduces the efficency of a wind turbine, even more so in turbulent winds. Consider that because of its increased inertia, it takes longer to get up to speed. And when the wind speed drops the turbine is spinning too fast for the enegy in the wind l, and thus looses the stored energy in momentum as wind comming from blades spinning faster than that which the blades would push them. Ideally a turbine would be weightless but structural integrity requires some mass so only use that which is needed. Good luck with your next build or rebuild.
This is so cool, I have been wanting to build something like this at some point and this design is practically what I had in mind. Cool to see someone actually build it.
I cannot wait for this to power something for sure. LOTS OF TORQUE
That looks like a torque monster. Looking forward to seeing how much power it makes.
i was thinking the same thing. The torque produced by that diameter wheel must be incredible.
Yep; there is torque at the center axle, but low rpm. Hopefully I can gear it up next to the circumference, but lower torque there. There's a give and take with torque and rpm.
@@doubleMinnovations How the turbine works: Rotatable shutters mounted on a circular disk automatically open when directed into the wind, irregardless of the wind's direction. Pairs of upper and lower shutters are geared together. The lower shutter acts as a counterweight to the upper shutter. The bottom shutter opens in the downward direction and its weight helps to lift the upper shutter in the upward direction, as the wind applies an opening force against both shutters. When the shutters reach the vertical position, stops prevent them from opening further and the force of the wind is transferred from the open shutters to the circular disk. And the circular disk is attached to the vertical axis for power output. The circular disk, shutters, and outer vertical axis rotate together. The outer vertical axis is mounted via bearings over an inner vertical axis that is stationery.
The shutters are blown closed by the wind (no stops in the opposite direction) as they reverse direction during their rotation and move into the wind on the opposite side of the wind turbine. When the wind is not blowing, the shutters open by gravity because the lower shutter is weighted to be slightly heavier than the upper shutter and it therefore can cause the upper shutter to open via the force of gravity as the two shutters are geared together. Wind blows against the open shutters and the open shutters with stops apply a force against the disk, but the open shutters with no stops (opposite side going into the wind) merely close due to the force of the wind (not applying a force against the disk) and the wind turbine begins spinning no matter what direction the wind comes from. Operation of the turbine is remarkably quiet as compared to the appearance of the video due to biasing members that absorb the shock of the opening and closing and provide useful energy output.
Background:
Robert D. Hunt has designed an innovative new disk-style vertical axis wind turbine or hydro-turbine that produces far less drag than does a conventional horizontal axis wind turbine that has vertical propeller type rotor blades of which the entire circumference of the vertical blades, known as the "swept area", creates drag. An additional negative aspect of conventional wind turbines is that they must be directed into the wind, which is not necessary with Hunt's new vertical axis turbine.
i am from Texas, and I am very excited about your build. You have done a great job building this and I cant wait to see what the power output you get from it.
Thanks for the interest!
A most excellent build just keeps getting better!
Thanks!
VERY IMPRESSIVE BUILD ✅🏆👍
Thank you!
thank you for sharing your progress
a pair of old shoes might improve the brakes
You're welcome!
You should look into the Amish air concepts, they use turbines to pump air itself into tanks, then use that air to spin motors in various tools, whole shops ran on air..
You have easily a large enough surface area to spin a pump, maybe not an electric generator but a pump most definitely.. best of luck!
Yes; using a compressor pump is something I had in mind too. Thanks!
@@doubleMinnovations no problem! I’m currently working on one now! You can convert a small weed eater motor to a pump
Genius
Thanks for watching!
I wouldn't think OSB on a device with moving parts meant to be used outdoors makes much sense. Can you elaborate on your thinking?
I hope you will get some watts out of this big construction! In my country, Latvia, I know two men`s, who try to make this type of WG. One man make a huge construction - about 5 meters high and spend about 20 000 Lats in old currency which is about 28 000 Euros... and get nothing! It stands as dead tree... Another man take long axis and make skinny (not wide) screw design and get very little and it just rotates in the wind for decoration... P.S. Wind Generators for home "brewers" is not easy task. At first it is not efficient - one part rotates, second part break rotation... In old times I think about WG DIY, but no. Fingers crossed! :)
My little turbine is a yard decoration; this one is a study. Have about $600 into it. We'll see what becomes of it...
@@doubleMinnovations :) yes.
@@doubleMinnovations What do you have planned for to convert the rotation to electricity? My MPPT needs 125V to kick on.
A roll of 2 foot aluminum flashing might be cheaper and easier to apply along with being lighter in weight.. Stretching Tyvek might be even cheaper but not as rigid.. Harnessing the movement from the center post would put less drag on the movement and having a clutch that would only connect the generator or alternator to the hub if the speed was high enough would also be a good idea.. Something like a clutch from an old weed whipper or chainsaw on a shaft that would be after a 200? to 1 ratio belt and pully or gear set..
Thanks for all the suggestions!
Have you considered hoverboard motors? A few of those in place of those cart wheels might work, and generate some power
It's something to consider, thanks. Trying different wheels and arrangements for the powertrain is the next step.
I always wondered if you could take some 1x's and split PVC pipes lengthwise to make long scoops along the 1x's. We used to buy the 1x's at 16 foot lengths, so greater than 30 foot radius would be easily sourced for materials. Could use little chunks of PEX tubing for spacers to mount the PVC with a gap off the 1x's. Run wires tip to tip to control flexion from the torque. It would rotate slow but the torque would be very high at the center.
People have lots of ideas out there for wind turbines. It doesn't hurt to try something that you think is worth while.
👍🤝
Im bench testing a smart drive Lg washer motor 3phase no rewiring just two parallelbridge rectifiers charging 3 1000uf caps 250v (should be higher ) and mechanical limit switch on rotor discharging direct in batteries and coils for testing , i can spin with one finger and 1 rpm is enough power in the caps to kill you or send ya on your ass at best , you could put 20 of these on that beast you constructed and have enough to power you and all your neighbors 😅 GREAT JOB MAN ! i have a few videos on my channel of some tests , thx for sharing
Thanks for the tip!
What will be the resonant frequency of that?
How many watts are your wind turbines generating?
Man that is big. That chipboard on the bottom of the rotor will fall apart in a year or two when it gets wet.
I planned this to be a temporary build while I find out what is workable, and why I used the cheapest materials. I did coat the top side of the OSB with a foundation coating I had left over, like I did the other exposed lumber. I didn't do the edge yet; or I may use that edge for a powertrain track. Still considering options...
@doubleMinnovations Copy, cool design!
@@doubleMinnovations My question in my comment has been answered here, apologies!
Incorporating metal studs would lighten up the structure up bit
They probably would, but I think a little more difficult to work with. They tend to twist if they aren't cladded with something. Thanks for the interest!
No one has ever built a 12' diameter axial flux generator before.
A 12' axial flux poses a challenge in keeping the gap between rotor and stator consistent and narrow. He could probably do radial flux with less variation across the gap allowing for thinner gap.
Have you seen thingap motor stator? The winding type is faulhabor style radial flux.
Ésa es buena para guirar un generador aeolico grande
Make sure you keep those wheel bearings greased up.
I guess you don't really read these comments. I made some suggestions on your previous video, if you looked at the videos that I suggested in the comment. Yes I know that the videos that I suggested in my comment may have potentially been considered spam and you didn't look at, however, they were actually videos to explain ways to make this style wind generator more efficient.
I reply to some comments when there is time. Don't take it personally if I don't, or don't use some suggestion. If they are not deleted they are there for others to read. I don't delete unless comments are offensive, not sure when TH-cam deletes.
I can't think that the ROI will beat a solar system. A lot of effort for very little watts.
Your vawt turbine blades are more of a lift type than a drag type. Picture sail boats tacking across the wind bush sail boats throug water faster than the wind. Your turbine's tip speed/wind speed ratio TSR should be greater than 1. The other type of VAWT uses drag like aniometer cups or savonious turbines, have a TSR less than 1. Despite the diameter, it appears like your turbine is not spinning fast enoughb in 5-10mph winds. I think the number of blades in your design is creating so much turbulance that it reduce the efficency. HAWT would reduce the number of blades to 1 for better efficency if it weren't for harmonics vibrations with the suporting pole 2 or three blades seems to be a sufficent compromise. Maybe your turbine might perform equallly well or better with 3-6 blades rather than what you have now. Reducing the number of blades will also allow you to take lots of weight off your turbine and make it cheaper to reproduce.
If the ground were sloped up to the turbine blades, then the wind has to speed up a little to get over the artifical hill.
VAWTs with top and bottom caps tend to perform better than without because the block wind energy from escaping out the top and bottom which allows the downwind side of the turbine to capture more wind energy.
Excessive weight also reduces the efficency of a wind turbine, even more so in turbulent winds. Consider that because of its increased inertia, it takes longer to get up to speed. And when the wind speed drops the turbine is spinning too fast for the enegy in the wind l, and thus looses the stored energy in momentum as wind comming from blades spinning faster than that which the blades would push them. Ideally a turbine would be weightless but structural integrity requires some mass so only use that which is needed.
Good luck with your next build or rebuild.
👍🤠