I bought a new Husqvarna TE510 in the the year 2010. Ten years later it only has 2000 very easy going kms on the clock and it's never been dropped. Still in original showroom condition. So lucky for me, l doubt it will ever need a rebuild, but I enjoyed watching you doing it just the same. Well done.
Glad it was a help. These bikes need frequent engine maintenance and for many of us, paying a mechanic isn't viable. If we had that kind of money, we'd probably buy a new KTM and be done, haha
Hey thanks for the video! I have a 510 smr 2008 and has 7000 km and I would like to know when it is recommended to do a rebuild on it. I heard 10000 but I think it should take more 😔 ?
The manual says 10,000 km. When I pulled my engine apart, twice, at 10,000 km, both times the piston was at the wear limit specified in the owners manual for a change. Depends on how hard you ride it and how often you change the oil. I heard that Wosner pistons last longer than others. But if you go harder with the piston, it'll wear the bore more. The cylinder is Nikasil treated. Mine didn't seem to wear at all. But it's really expensive if you do need to replace it. Probably $800 USD. I think that's the idea behind a soft piston and changing it often. The longer you wait, the more the piston is cocked to one side and wearing the bore.
Do you now what the pipe/hose you put on almost att the end after the cams is going to? I wondering to buy an smr whit a cracked pipe, but I dosent now how expensive it's going to be to fix the damages that could have done
I just look on here for a ballpark figure. Is a bit unclear, but seems like 63 euros. I buy from Halls Cycles in the US or try and find the SWM part that is 1/3 the price, usually. Hopefully they're not also 1/3 the quality, lol shop.italhusky.com/en/products/2007/250-400-450-510-1/cylinder-head-36
How do you know if the valves need to be replaced, I have a 2009 510 smr coming up to 10,000km and the repair manual shows a lot of parts needing to be replaced, if a part is still within spec is replacement unnecessary? Also is it necessary to split the case to change the transmission bearings? Thank you in advance!
You should be doing your valve clearance checks every 2000 to 5000 km, depending on if they're moving. If they aren't, then the valves should be fine. A lot of the stuff the manual recommends replacing actually has a spec and should be measured. Bearings can't be measured. Check out the rod. The side to side play spec is .75 mm for replacement. Should be zero longitudinal play. If you're doing the rod, do the big end bearings, otherwise, leave it. They're roller bearings and should last awhile with no issues. Keep that oil fresh every 1000 km and your internals will outlast what the manual says. My rod and bearings had 27,000 km on them and no longitudinal play and right at the wear limit side to side.
@@xXTanman19Xx what I learned about titanium valves is that they have a hard outer coating. They will be fine for a long time, but once the coating is worn off, they'll go quickly. You can't grind them or lap them because it takes off the coating and you'll ruin the valves. That's why they recommend replacement. At $950 for a set, you don't want to replace them early, though. So it's a gamble. At some point at or before 10,000 km someone replaced my valves with aftermarket titanium ones, and they lasted until 27,000 km and were fine at that point. You can convert them to steel. It's about $500 USD for the set with springs (required), but some people didn't have much luck with those. I would go titanium, as they last pretty well. I'm happy to help out answering questions.
What kind of compression did you get after you rebuilt the engine? I have a 06 and I’m having trouble getting it to start and after it heats up it losses power. Compression is around 150 psi. What do you think? Thanks
Most common cause of low compression is timing. Double check your timing marks. You line up the center gear and then the two cam gears must be line up. You can't see the marks at TDC, so you have to turn the engine just a bit to see if they're lined up. The first time I got it wrong and it didn't run well. Figured out the trick.
@@ExpatonTwoWheels Thank you for the input about the timing marks. I don’t think it’s ever been rebuilt and was wondering what part you replaced the two times you rebuilt yours and around how much the cost was. I’m asking a lot I know but I wanna fix this thing up parts are getting harder and harder to find though. How hard was it to split the crankcase and did you have to have special tools to reassemble it. Thanks again.
@@michaeldixon4244 The first time it only needed a piston and head gasket, so that was easy. Pretty basic tools will do it. The piston kit is about $350 and the gaskets are about $150 I think. Once you have the cylinder and head off you can check the rod for play. There should be no up and down play and there is a specified amount of side to side play. I think mine was replaced at 10,000 km and then I did it at 25,000 km. It was at the wear limit. To do the rod you must split the cases and that's a big mission. You need a special puller tool to pull the cases apart. I made it out of plate steel. Wasn't too hard, but it did bend. Maybe if you heat it it would come apart easier. Change the bearings while you're in there. Expect to pay $1100 for piston, rings, gaskets, rod, big end bearings, etc. The first quote came to $1600 and so I removed some stuff that wasn't necessary. If you need to do headwork, have a machine shop do it. Lots of tools for that and machine shop work is really cheap. You can't grind or lap the valves so you need to replace them if anything is up. They're $1000 for 4 of them. Titanium. It's an expensive bike to own. Good luck. I got rid of mine and got a WR450f.
It's getting hard to get parts. You can either get them from the US, Halls Cycles or Italhusky in Europe. The 2008-2010 is ok because the SMW is the same. But the 2007 has many different parts that aren't made now. shop.italhusky.com/en/products
@@ExpatonTwoWheels First of all thanks for your reply. because I don't speak English very well, so i use google translate to reply to you . Also I would like to ask, 2008-2010 cylinder and 2006 cylinder same? because as for as I know,2008-2010 is electron fuel injection, so you mean Valve and Camshaft different. It is right? Thank you very much.
great video man! what year is your 510? I have a 2005 510 TE. its so hard to get parts in europe for this! is a 2005 like 2006 probably? 2006 i see a little more parts. Unfortunately most parts are of 2008 or younger!
It's a 2007. Definitely more parts for the 2008-10 bikes. Different frame and everything. I sold it and got a WR450f which has been a lot more reliable. In Europe it's actually not too bad if you find the right groups. Italians are always selling parts on eBay for them. I live in Asia and shipping out here for parts is ridiculous. Really adds up
@@ExpatonTwoWheels ha thanks! i will then open the whole engine and see if everything is allright. And hopefully find the parts i need. Probably a piston and more. my TE starts bad,... rides good though. (once it finally starts :)).
@@rctrickstipsfun6504 have you done a valve clearance check and checked the spark plug and cleaned the carb? I struggled with hard starting on the 510 many times. The starter didn't want to turn the engine over. Sometimes it was electrical, once it was head gasket, hydrolock. Good luck with it. Plenty of pistons on the market, aftermarket and OE. Check Facebook groups.
@@ExpatonTwoWheels hey man thanks! yes i will put the carb tomorrow in a ultra sonic bath. and i just checked the valves. These are all within specs. The outlet is just about good, so i will change some shims in time. Hopefully after the carb cleaning it will be fine! I will check the facebookgroups thank you! my facebook btw facebook.com/wonton.animalchin.7/
Hi hopefully you can help, my husky 510 has somehow just popped a shim out, on the left intake, I have got the shim out in one peice, but now the little dish that sits on top of the spring that holds the shim is damaged,can that be removed without pulling the head off ??? Any little tricks, ty
I think I saw your post on the Facebook group. As others said, you can put compressed air into the cylinder and that will hold the valve up. Then you push the collar down and remove the keepers. But that's assuming your valve, stem, guide and seat aren't damaged. It may be worth trying. Who knows
@@ExpatonTwoWheels yeah that was me 👍👍👍 is it difficult to do the compressed air ??? Any idea how it's done, how would you block intake and outlets to make them sealed for the air
@@londonTown1989 and the cylinder should be at TDC, that way the valves are all closed. Block the engine from moving with a socket and breaker bar on the flywheel nut.
@@ExpatonTwoWheels you absolute diamond, might give that a go, I'm not sure if there was any damage, bike still run fine, I just randomly noticed it started making the noise so stoped riding once I got home
Whats the deal with smr compatible parts? Mine is '06 SMR 510 and I can never ever find out what is compatible for it and what isn't. Very very very slim pickings. Most things I find are 08 and up including accessories (most importantly for me). The engine on mine is rebuilt thankfully.
Most of the parts on the 2005 to 2007s are the same. In 2008 they redesigned the frame, switched the sides of the exhaust, and installed EFI. So not many parts work on all the Huskies. I like the simplicity of a carb, but the 05-07 is a real pain parts wise. I sold this bike and I'm really glad I did. I do not miss paying 3x the value for parts and waiting ages for a part that will fail again in two or three years.
i want to buy a 510 (i want sm but i will convert if i cant find one) should i look for carb or for injection?Also what problems do they have?Oh and about the 530 kit is reliable ?
Well, it's much easier to find parts for the 2008+ fuel injected bikes. Generally, fuel injection is less trouble, unless you're set on a big bore, then it's easier with a carb. I've done a big bore on a carb bike and exhausts and a carb will flow more fuel if more air is moving because of the venuri effect. Electronic fuel injection won't, so you'll need a tuner. Not sure how easy it is to get the chips for them anymore. They like to be well maintained with 1000 km service intervals on oil, 10w60. Valve checks every 2000 km. 10,000 km intervals on the piston. If the service isn't done, expensive engine work is in order. Going too long on the piston will ruin the cylinder. It's about $800 USD. Piston and head gasket is $350, titanium valves are $950 USD. Rods will usually go longer. Everything is really expensive and assume you're buying an engine rebuild project on the used market. Crank and bearings are stressed already. I wouldn't want to stress them more with a 530.
@@ExpatonTwoWheels Thanks a lot for your reply!I know she needs care i can do everything my self including the rebuild if needed.I will stay away from 530 then.Btw is there any engine difference for the carb and the fi model except the fuel injection.I mean the parts are the same or are different??
@@tougeattack123 I'm pretty sure the engine parts are the same. But the exhaust is on the other side and the frames are completely different. If you want aftermarket parts, mostly they start with 2008. No one supports the old bikes anymore besides factory replacement parts. Also watch for the intake boot that connects the carb or throttle body to the engine. They crack easily. Check my video review of the Ricambi CNC manifold
You have to line the marks up like the service manual says. It's hard to see where the gears mesh, so if you turnb the engine back and forth a few degrees when installing the cams, it helps a lot. I messed up the exhaust cam timing the first time because i couldn't see the marks.
I don't think I would assume because the water pump makes a noise that it would need an engine rebuild. For rebuilds, you check the compression. It's easy enough to pull the water pump cover off and have a look. Does it overheat?
hello guys :D need some help here.. i have a husqvarna smr 450, engine blew up completly (crankshaft in half, engine cases broke etc...) did anyone ever tried a swap ? 510cc engine on the 450 smr 2004 year model ? i really cant find a 450 engine and im asking if the 510 fits perfectly without any mods ?
I'm sure you already found a solution, however, it's the exact same motor, the only differences are the bore and piston, so yeah, you can just put the 510 motor in the 450 chassis.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 73 | คู่เอก "วรพล vs พันฤทธิ์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rrOljlqse3A/mqdefault.jpg)
I bought a new Husqvarna TE510 in the the year 2010. Ten years later it only has 2000 very easy going kms on the clock and it's never been dropped. Still in original showroom condition. So lucky for me, l doubt it will ever need a rebuild, but I enjoyed watching you doing it just the same. Well done.
i envy the guy whos gonna have it after you more haha
thanks a lot sir. this video helped me alot rebuilding my blown up husqvarna smr 450 with zero experience
Glad it was a help. These bikes need frequent engine maintenance and for many of us, paying a mechanic isn't viable. If we had that kind of money, we'd probably buy a new KTM and be done, haha
wow nice rebuild you made it look easy.
Very good video, thank you. But I think I will do it at a work bench or table lol, my back couldn’t work on the floor.
Good job bro..
Thanks
nice video thanks
Im thinking about just changing piston. Do i have to take apart lifters++ just for that, or just piston change and adjust valves?
Do you know where you can get that union for the head halls doesn’t have or stock it anymore.
I have a TC and a thrashed TE motor, wanting to put the e-start onto the TC motor. Any videos of how to split the case to fit that?
ottimo video ma per la messa in fase ?? indicazioni?
I have a 2007 smr 510. I was wondering where you find engine parts for these bikes?
Halls Cycles. They're great. Very reliable. Stock most of the parts. www.halls-cycles.com/
Awesome! Thank you so much!
My 09 510SMR have 398 hours and I only used 2 pistons
Can you share your video List of repair parts?
Hey thanks for the video! I have a 510 smr 2008 and has 7000 km and I would like to know when it is recommended to do a rebuild on it. I heard 10000 but I think it should take more 😔 ?
The manual says 10,000 km. When I pulled my engine apart, twice, at 10,000 km, both times the piston was at the wear limit specified in the owners manual for a change. Depends on how hard you ride it and how often you change the oil. I heard that Wosner pistons last longer than others. But if you go harder with the piston, it'll wear the bore more. The cylinder is Nikasil treated. Mine didn't seem to wear at all. But it's really expensive if you do need to replace it. Probably $800 USD. I think that's the idea behind a soft piston and changing it often. The longer you wait, the more the piston is cocked to one side and wearing the bore.
Do you now what the pipe/hose you put on almost att the end after the cams is going to? I wondering to buy an smr whit a cracked pipe, but I dosent now how expensive it's going to be to fix the damages that could have done
I just look on here for a ballpark figure. Is a bit unclear, but seems like 63 euros. I buy from Halls Cycles in the US or try and find the SWM part that is 1/3 the price, usually. Hopefully they're not also 1/3 the quality, lol shop.italhusky.com/en/products/2007/250-400-450-510-1/cylinder-head-36
Bro que tal, deseo saber el punto de los ejes de levas
Whats the song near the beginning? “take me away…”
How do you know if the valves need to be replaced, I have a 2009 510 smr coming up to 10,000km and the repair manual shows a lot of parts needing to be replaced, if a part is still within spec is replacement unnecessary? Also is it necessary to split the case to change the transmission bearings? Thank you in advance!
You should be doing your valve clearance checks every 2000 to 5000 km, depending on if they're moving. If they aren't, then the valves should be fine. A lot of the stuff the manual recommends replacing actually has a spec and should be measured. Bearings can't be measured. Check out the rod. The side to side play spec is .75 mm for replacement. Should be zero longitudinal play. If you're doing the rod, do the big end bearings, otherwise, leave it. They're roller bearings and should last awhile with no issues. Keep that oil fresh every 1000 km and your internals will outlast what the manual says. My rod and bearings had 27,000 km on them and no longitudinal play and right at the wear limit side to side.
@@ExpatonTwoWheels will definitely have more questions in the near future... thanks for the reply!!
@@xXTanman19Xx what I learned about titanium valves is that they have a hard outer coating. They will be fine for a long time, but once the coating is worn off, they'll go quickly. You can't grind them or lap them because it takes off the coating and you'll ruin the valves. That's why they recommend replacement. At $950 for a set, you don't want to replace them early, though. So it's a gamble. At some point at or before 10,000 km someone replaced my valves with aftermarket titanium ones, and they lasted until 27,000 km and were fine at that point. You can convert them to steel. It's about $500 USD for the set with springs (required), but some people didn't have much luck with those. I would go titanium, as they last pretty well. I'm happy to help out answering questions.
What year is your bike and where did you get the rebuild kit?
2007. I bought my parts from Halls Cycles. Great service.
What kind of compression did you get after you rebuilt the engine? I have a 06 and I’m having trouble getting it to start and after it heats up it losses power. Compression is around 150 psi. What do you think? Thanks
Most common cause of low compression is timing. Double check your timing marks. You line up the center gear and then the two cam gears must be line up. You can't see the marks at TDC, so you have to turn the engine just a bit to see if they're lined up. The first time I got it wrong and it didn't run well. Figured out the trick.
@@ExpatonTwoWheels Thank you for the input about the timing marks. I don’t think it’s ever been rebuilt and was wondering what part you replaced the two times you rebuilt yours and around how much the cost was. I’m asking a lot I know but I wanna fix this thing up parts are getting harder and harder to find though. How hard was it to split the crankcase and did you have to have special tools to reassemble it. Thanks again.
@@michaeldixon4244 The first time it only needed a piston and head gasket, so that was easy. Pretty basic tools will do it. The piston kit is about $350 and the gaskets are about $150 I think. Once you have the cylinder and head off you can check the rod for play. There should be no up and down play and there is a specified amount of side to side play. I think mine was replaced at 10,000 km and then I did it at 25,000 km. It was at the wear limit. To do the rod you must split the cases and that's a big mission. You need a special puller tool to pull the cases apart. I made it out of plate steel. Wasn't too hard, but it did bend. Maybe if you heat it it would come apart easier. Change the bearings while you're in there. Expect to pay $1100 for piston, rings, gaskets, rod, big end bearings, etc. The first quote came to $1600 and so I removed some stuff that wasn't necessary. If you need to do headwork, have a machine shop do it. Lots of tools for that and machine shop work is really cheap. You can't grind or lap the valves so you need to replace them if anything is up. They're $1000 for 4 of them. Titanium. It's an expensive bike to own. Good luck. I got rid of mine and got a WR450f.
@@ExpatonTwoWheels thanks for all your help.
How do I take apart the oil pipe above the camshaft? I hope you can help me.
You remove the camshaft caps. The corner of the cap holds the pipe in place.
@@ExpatonTwoWheels awesome, thank you!
謝謝大大讓我了解510的大修過程
最近正考慮入手一台來騎乘
看了510的規格與性能
跟我唯一擁有過的GasGas ec250相似
我一直很懷念當初騎乘的感受
可是我很擔心510的零件不好取得
網路與ebay上搜尋汽缸相關的資訊又少之又少
請問大大目前510的零件歐美還有料嗎？
謝謝
It's getting hard to get parts. You can either get them from the US, Halls Cycles or Italhusky in Europe. The 2008-2010 is ok because the SMW is the same. But the 2007 has many different parts that aren't made now. shop.italhusky.com/en/products
@@ExpatonTwoWheels
First of all thanks for your reply.
because I don't speak English very well, so i use google translate to reply to you .
Also I would like to ask, 2008-2010 cylinder and 2006 cylinder same?
because as for as I know,2008-2010 is electron fuel injection, so you mean Valve and Camshaft different. It is right?
Thank you very much.
Taiwan?I have a 2007 smr 510 too
great video man! what year is your 510? I have a 2005 510 TE. its so hard to get parts in europe for this! is a 2005 like 2006 probably? 2006 i see a little more parts. Unfortunately most parts are of 2008 or younger!
It's a 2007. Definitely more parts for the 2008-10 bikes. Different frame and everything. I sold it and got a WR450f which has been a lot more reliable. In Europe it's actually not too bad if you find the right groups. Italians are always selling parts on eBay for them. I live in Asia and shipping out here for parts is ridiculous. Really adds up
@@ExpatonTwoWheels ha thanks! i will then open the whole engine and see if everything is allright. And hopefully find the parts i need. Probably a piston and more. my TE starts bad,... rides good though. (once it finally starts :)).
@@rctrickstipsfun6504 have you done a valve clearance check and checked the spark plug and cleaned the carb? I struggled with hard starting on the 510 many times. The starter didn't want to turn the engine over. Sometimes it was electrical, once it was head gasket, hydrolock. Good luck with it. Plenty of pistons on the market, aftermarket and OE. Check Facebook groups.
@@ExpatonTwoWheels hey man thanks! yes i will put the carb tomorrow in a ultra sonic bath. and i just checked the valves. These are all within specs. The outlet is just about good, so i will change some shims in time. Hopefully after the carb cleaning it will be fine! I will check the
facebookgroups thank you! my facebook btw facebook.com/wonton.animalchin.7/
Hi hopefully you can help, my husky 510 has somehow just popped a shim out, on the left intake, I have got the shim out in one peice, but now the little dish that sits on top of the spring that holds the shim is damaged,can that be removed without pulling the head off ??? Any little tricks, ty
I think I saw your post on the Facebook group. As others said, you can put compressed air into the cylinder and that will hold the valve up. Then you push the collar down and remove the keepers. But that's assuming your valve, stem, guide and seat aren't damaged. It may be worth trying. Who knows
@@ExpatonTwoWheels yeah that was me 👍👍👍 is it difficult to do the compressed air ??? Any idea how it's done, how would you block intake and outlets to make them sealed for the air
@@londonTown1989 you use a cylinder leak down tester with a spark plug thread.
@@londonTown1989 and the cylinder should be at TDC, that way the valves are all closed. Block the engine from moving with a socket and breaker bar on the flywheel nut.
@@ExpatonTwoWheels you absolute diamond, might give that a go, I'm not sure if there was any damage, bike still run fine, I just randomly noticed it started making the noise so stoped riding once I got home
Whats the deal with smr compatible parts? Mine is '06 SMR 510 and I can never ever find out what is compatible for it and what isn't. Very very very slim pickings. Most things I find are 08 and up including accessories (most importantly for me). The engine on mine is rebuilt thankfully.
Most of the parts on the 2005 to 2007s are the same. In 2008 they redesigned the frame, switched the sides of the exhaust, and installed EFI. So not many parts work on all the Huskies. I like the simplicity of a carb, but the 05-07 is a real pain parts wise. I sold this bike and I'm really glad I did. I do not miss paying 3x the value for parts and waiting ages for a part that will fail again in two or three years.
@@ExpatonTwoWheels yeah I almost got a 2008 but :/ too late for that. I didn't know the frame was redesigned though
i want to buy a 510 (i want sm but i will convert if i cant find one) should i look for carb or for injection?Also what problems do they have?Oh and about the 530 kit is reliable ?
Well, it's much easier to find parts for the 2008+ fuel injected bikes. Generally, fuel injection is less trouble, unless you're set on a big bore, then it's easier with a carb. I've done a big bore on a carb bike and exhausts and a carb will flow more fuel if more air is moving because of the venuri effect. Electronic fuel injection won't, so you'll need a tuner. Not sure how easy it is to get the chips for them anymore. They like to be well maintained with 1000 km service intervals on oil, 10w60. Valve checks every 2000 km. 10,000 km intervals on the piston. If the service isn't done, expensive engine work is in order. Going too long on the piston will ruin the cylinder. It's about $800 USD. Piston and head gasket is $350, titanium valves are $950 USD. Rods will usually go longer. Everything is really expensive and assume you're buying an engine rebuild project on the used market. Crank and bearings are stressed already. I wouldn't want to stress them more with a 530.
@@ExpatonTwoWheels Thanks a lot for your reply!I know she needs care i can do everything my self including the rebuild if needed.I will stay away from 530 then.Btw is there any engine difference for the carb and the fi model except the fuel injection.I mean the parts are the same or are different??
@@tougeattack123 I'm pretty sure the engine parts are the same. But the exhaust is on the other side and the frames are completely different. If you want aftermarket parts, mostly they start with 2008. No one supports the old bikes anymore besides factory replacement parts. Also watch for the intake boot that connects the carb or throttle body to the engine. They crack easily. Check my video review of the Ricambi CNC manifold
@@ExpatonTwoWheels Apriciate the info thanks a lot will check you video right now thanks!
Because of timing, how do you change the piston without fucking up the timing?
You have to line the marks up like the service manual says. It's hard to see where the gears mesh, so if you turnb the engine back and forth a few degrees when installing the cams, it helps a lot. I messed up the exhaust cam timing the first time because i couldn't see the marks.
@@ExpatonTwoWheels Ah, right :D I guess ill buy the manual to be safe :)
Are u in Taiwan?
Yes
You should invest in a table
I really wanted to before this build, but I didn't have the space and the stainless steel tables are really expensive. I will one day
Expat on Two Wheels back pain is more expensive to deal with later on in life
so my husqvarna make s a sort of zooming sound i think it s the waterpump 14k on it now is there a possebility that i need a engine rebuild ?
I don't think I would assume because the water pump makes a noise that it would need an engine rebuild. For rebuilds, you check the compression. It's easy enough to pull the water pump cover off and have a look. Does it overheat?
@@ExpatonTwoWheels is there a way to send you a vid of the sound ?
You can upload it to your TH-cam as unlisted and then message me the link.
@@ExpatonTwoWheels th-cam.com/video/9Q-_F18DPU0/w-d-xo.html
@@ExpatonTwoWheels the sound dissapears when i rev a bit
hello guys :D need some help here.. i have a husqvarna smr 450, engine blew up completly (crankshaft in half, engine cases broke etc...) did anyone ever tried a swap ? 510cc engine on the 450 smr 2004 year model ? i really cant find a 450 engine and im asking if the 510 fits perfectly without any mods ?
I don't know how easy or difficult it is, but I know people do it regularly. It must be easy.
Αδερφε εισαι εσυ που το πουλας στο car?
@@filippostrilivas5029 steile mou inbox
I'm sure you already found a solution, however, it's the exact same motor, the only differences are the bore and piston, so yeah, you can just put the 510 motor in the 450 chassis.
The 510 is alot more street friendly than the actual race bike the smr450
It is the same Engine, the 510 has a bigger bore thats it. So there is no difference between these 2.
;)