▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR MORE RESOURCES RELATED TO THIS VIDEO▼ *Tools used in this video:* -Good scrapers: lddy.no/10og2 -Burnisher: lddy.no/10og4 -Fine mill file: amzn.to/2WqQpcI -300/1000 diamond stone: amzn.to/3my3bAY *Links promised in this video:* -Video about sanding vs. scraping vs. planing: th-cam.com/video/GXnU0uwWwsE/w-d-xo.html -More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/ -Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/ -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs -Facebook: facebook.com/Stumpy-Nubs-Woodworking-Journal-305639859477973/ ★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★ Sjobergs Workbenches: affinitytool.com/brands/sjobergs *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
I have been a luthier, stringed instrument builder/repair, for over 40 years, and for most of that time, a lot of sanding/smoothing/flattening is done from many contorted and pretzel positions. About 30 years ago at one of our national guild shows. A young apprenticed man took a standard box cutter blade and with vice grips drug it across a small vice platform at about 80 to 90⁰; effectively ruining the blade (15¢) but creating a uniform burr.This was my introduction to card or metal scraping. With the sharp corners and flat middle and minuscule size for reaching inside of rare vintage instruments; a new age began for me. "New subscriber" and appreciate the science/preference opinions and histories of tooling and metal smithing. My repertoire in woodworking is thousands of guitars, mandolins... and two houses. Great videos; length of video to useful information ratio is just right.
Some people ask about curved scrapers: Try using a nail set that is in good condition instead of the burnisher. The nail set metal isn't ideal, really, but its diameter is smaller, which increases the pressure, and it has a built in angle because of its taper. For some reason, I find that with a nail set, I am able to more easily establish a hook on a curved scraper than with a regular burnisher. I focus on staying level across the edge with the axis of the nail set, leaving it to the taper to give me the angle to draw over the hook. I think it's just hard to change the direction of the force onto the burnisher as you go around a curve and I think the amplification in pressure from the narrow nail set helps offset that. Just be careful because you don't have as much to hold onto and, if you slip, you can cut yourself on the scraper. Also, lubricate the nail set (and burnisher).
Had to come back here after I got done sharpening this way and an VERY happy over my hook!!! I THOUGHT I was happy with what I was getting till now 😆. This is why your my boy blue!
I’ve been a woodworker for 50 years. There isn’t a single video of yours that does not teach me something new. And….your presentation is one of if not the best on TH-cam. I’ll spread the word. Be well and Be Safe.
As a site carpenter unusually I carry a cabinet scraper in my toolbag. I find it very useful for quickly removing pitch marks from an electric planer and levelling any minor errors in joints when taken at forty five degrees to the joint edge. I do leave the corners square because I find it useful for cleaning rebates. Prolonged scraper use does however require me to manually straighten my thumbs!
Your videos are PRICELESS....!!! I recently got back into woodworking after decades of being an electrician and this channel is a godsend..... Thank you!
Just got my first cards scrapers today, boy am I ever impressed! Actually, using the scraper came to me pretty quick, once I get the hang of sharpening I see myself doing a hell of a lot less sanding! And I really, really really sanding.
In a previous life I was a baker. So I had and was shown how to sharpen a “bench scraper” the nicer one made by Dexter had a wood handle on what would be used for woodworking would have been a usable edge. These were used simply to scrape off the dough and flour that adhered to the wooden bench tops. When newly sharpened they would also remove a layer of sawdust from the bench top. Over the years I have struggled with the pulling and bending of cabinet scrapers since my muscle memory wants to revert to holding the scraper’s top edge and pushing it, as I wood with a baker’s bench scraper. Thank you for demonstrating the whys and wherefore of using the cabinet scraper as you do.
As an "old" retired English cabinetmaker I had never heard the term Card Scraper until your video. we know them as cabinet scrapers. I have always had lots of them and found that wide bandsaw blades make excellent cabinet scrapers. I also modified an engineers three corner scraper for burnishing ( rounding off the sharp edges ), works a treat! I did an engineering apprenticeship first where I came across engineers scrapers ( providing that is what you call them LoL).
Dad was a cabinet maker he called them scrapers, so cabinet scrapers makes much more sense, who scrapes card anyway. I can remember him showing me how to sharpen them nearly sixty years ago with a file and a screwdriver shank. I can remember him telling me about burning his thumbs 👍👍
@@soylentgreen326 yup, back when scrapers were softer metal and screwdrivers were made from harder steel. Now the scrapers are made from harder steel than the screwdrivers are so if both are newer, that pairing won't work. A carbide rod will work wonders though on most any scraper you come across. And, you can order carbide rods from Amazon fairly inexpensively.
@@soylentgreen326 yup, that certainly works. I don't think the term card scraper is because of scraping cards, but because the scraper is in the shape of a card. Many of the scrapers are a bit smaller and fit into a holder, pocket, or scraping plane.
Just had flash back of 45 year as a young apprentice been show how to sharpen and use scraper . You instructions regarding sharing the same guidance I was given .
James, you never cease to bring so much understanding to the topics you teach about. I bought some scrapers a while back but haven't used them because I didn't know how and how to prep them. Time to get back in the shop and give it a try! Thank you. BTW, I loved the statement about not being a snob about what tool you use.
Never knew how to sharpen or use scrapers before. First time I have ever seen any one give a scraping lesson. I tried sharpening one on a bench grinder once and that sure was a disaster. Thank you so much. Finally seeing a tutorial is great.
I've tried several times to sharpen scrapers, all to no avail. Your explanation is very clear and concise. My hope is renewed. We'll see in a day or two. Thanks much.
Excellent tutorial. I keep two sets of scrapers, one for rough work (drawfile and go) and a set prepped for fine work (hone and burnish). The former is for shaping, the latter for finishing.
Undulation.... Word of the day! This really answered a lot of questions I did not know I had about the scraper. Completely educating video for me... Now to go out and sharpen those scrapers properly! :)
Thanks for putting this video out. I was kind of intimidated by scrapers but this quick video helped me understand how to use them to the point where I would feel comfortable buying and using one.
Start practicing on hardwood. I find them difficult to use on softwood. I think scrapers are the best way to get out burn marks or machining marks. WAY faster and easier than sanding!!! Welcome to the club!!
Over time and collecting on top of restoring old tools and collectibles for others, I've come to understand something about the technologies... The more "early" or "antiquated" or "primitive" it is, generally... the more "idiot proof" it really was in care, upkeep, and even use... You just find the basics and it doesn't take long to "figure it out as you go". Tech' is funny that way. As we've modernized, we've actually complicated the HELL out of things to trade off "using your head" for "using your back"... as it were. A hand saw (for instance) isn't very sophisticated... The rules are simple, start the cut, and point the teeth in the direction you want to cut... it cuts that way... Mastering those very simple basics makes it possible to cut nearly any cut with almost any saw... A power saw, however, is 98% setting it up. You actually have to know by other tools, measurements, matching lines, and blah-blah-blah that the saw is going to make exactly the cut you need BEFORE you even touch the wood... AND then we're still building jigs and Jigs and JIGS to get newer, clever, more precise and repeated cuts for our projects... When I could just draw the damn lines and mark into the waste, and what I don't remove with a handsaw in a few "relief cuts", I can remove with a chisel and mallet... smooth it up, AND I'm done before my buddy has his jig arranged for the power saw... ...and he gets pissed at me when my joinery is tighter than his in half the time... Not being a snob here... BUT if you're interested in a single project at a time... and there's rarely a call for a bunch of cuts... Hand tools all the way. IF on the other hand, you have a regular need for a hundred or thousand of a certain thing done exactly the same way, then POWER TOOLS will save you time and frustration... come up short a couple dozen? If you have the notes and jig (or the thing is still set up) just run off a few dozen and call it a day... BUT modern tools tend to be multiple use, and sophisticated... Older tools... not so much. UGG the caveman probably invented it, so how hard could it be??? Bottom line is, DO NOT let the older fashions intimidate you. We always have Wood By Wright and Stumpy Nubbs and the like. Have a sit for a lunch or snack and video... and jump in. Really, for a card scraper, all you need is a flat and straight piece of HARDENED steel to get started... Hell, I've even seen them SHAPED for particular purposes. ;o)
Your method of setting up the scraper is clear and sensible. I have a burnisher, etc., and have used scrapers on and off over the years, but perhaps with your better methods I will use them more. Now all I want is to have someone show me how to successfully use my Veritas Scraping Plane, which I have never been able to do. :)
Gotta love the scraper. For rough work like scraping old varnish off tool handles, I just file it and roll the edge a bit with a burnisher. Rolls little chips like a champ. I have a scrap 3" wide bandsaw blade and can make custom shape scrapers out of it. The scraper saves a lot of money and dust compared to sandpaper.
Thank you for this. I use a scraper quite a lot, but I can see my sharpening technique needs refining. It is amazing what you can do with a simple rectangle of steel. I used to work in a woodworking store and I can tell you a lot of woodworkers feel intimidated by these. I noticed several people asked about sharpening curved scrapers and I have the same question.
Always a mystery, tools from the past. Thank you, I have always wanted to see a basic primer on the care and feeding of card scrapers, this was exactly what I was looking for. At $9 for two this is a real deal and low risk for upgrading my tool kit. Keep up the good work, your tool videos are the best and my favorite.
I used a Japanese saw for the first time about 15 years ago. After 2 days use I took my Sandvik crosscut saw and made scrapers from it. I use a highly polished butchers steel (Swibo) as a burnisher.
Very timely seeing this video a year after you posted I’ve been scraping black locust and wanted to know exactly what you shared. Thank you very much for an excellent presentation, I’m excited to get my scraper sharpened and get back to it👌👍😎
Thank you for showing that scalper holder. I inherited one from my father as part of a random collection of tools and I always wondered what it was for. Although I did suspect that it was for holding scrapers.
I’ve been learning the fine art of scraping. I was amazed how smooth the wood was afterward. I also used it to smooth a glue line and checked my progress by putting the scraper along the wood and looking for those pesky bit of light. It worked great and my glue line was smooth and tight. Love these things!
All very good. My scrapers of various sizes are derived from old wood saw blades cut up with an angle grinder and a hook produced on a bench grinder in about 10 seconds. I'm working on an oak dining table and they are really effective. I get lots of 'fluffy' shavings and no scratches. Cheap, simple, effective.
I was using a card scraper for the first time earlier today, to lightly plane an inset flush with the main workpiece. As someone who has trouble setting up a hand plane consistently, the scraper was a godsend. As always your suggestions were clear and informative, I’ll be sure to try them out soon.
Hi mate, just a quick little tip if you don’t mind. James has some vids of setting up hand planes that are really good but you should also check out the stuff by Rob Cosman on TH-cam. Rob is the go to for hand plane stuff and I’m sure that you’ll find any question answered that you can’t find here on James’ channel. Another good resource is Shannon Rogers of woodtalk podcast fame with his channel RenaissanceWW. Hope this is of some help as additional material to the brilliant work that James does here. Take care and stay safe out there mate, all the best from a fellow woodworker down under :)
I love using a scraper when appropriate but my technique, particularly with sharpening, needs improving. So this was an excellent simple explanation of how to do that well and consistently.
For heat build up prevention I like to flip the scraper over every two or three strokes. It makes sense to me to try to evenly use all four edges as well.
Excellent vid, as usual.👍 I discovered the cabinet scraper ten or fifteen years ago. After practicing the prep and making the hook a few times, you will not believe how effectively a simple tool like this can perform. When you start getting fluffy shavings and not dust, you’re there. (Initially, I was pressing too hard on the burnisher. A friend who is a finish carpenter advised using a bit less force. Press firmly, not hard to get a good hook, which will be pretty small if done correctly. Too much of a hook, and it will break off faster.)
Great tutorial! I always used an old valve stem from an engine for a burnisher. It's a very hard round piece of steel and does the job of a burnisher hopefully free of charge.
What a brilliant video to both sharpen and use scrapers. You've removed the trepidation I have for attempting to use them more often. You have a very nice delivery. Thanks
Great video! I learned a lot about improving my sharpening process. I think I'll buy a burnisher (I've been using a chisel instead). Card scrapers are also a lot faster and more aggressive in my experience (depending on usage). For removing old lacquer (or deep gouges, tear out from planing, or milling marks) it is A LOT faster than sanding. (At least faster than using a random orbital sander even with 40 grit. A belt sander might be able to keep up). I can't say about producing a smooth finish though. A sander is "fool proof" but a card scraper needs care and attention to produce smooth, even surfaces. Card scrapers do require more physical effort though. But on the plus, they're quiet (irrelevant for some).
Speaking from experience, save your time and throw the sandpaper directly into the trash, and use a scraper if you're trying to remove paint/lacquer. The sandpaper gets clogged and useless so fast
Not sure on the orbital... BUT you CAN unclog a belt sander by running the sole of an old tennis shoe or sneaker against the belt a few seconds at a time... scrubs crap right out for at least 3 or 4 times the lifespan... ...screwy enough, THANK YOU TIM ALLEN!!! If you need unadulterated aggression, you can also get a "Shaper" and blades... They're not expensive and DO last pretty well... Some stores keep them over in the "Automotive Body" section of hardware and call them "Sure-Forms"... BUT because they work in fiberglass and aluminum or similarly soft metals... They're HELL ON WHEELS at moving wood, paint, lacquer, and obnoxious knotty crap... The actual tool looks like a cheese-grater mated with a file-holder for an illegitimate love-child... BUT there's a screw right at the handle end, to remove the "horrific rabid cheese-grater" blade, and you can get flat blades, flats that cut to one or both sides, OR rounded blades for them... It's not a "proper" finishing tool, but it's a great way in some spots to REALLY save on work, especially if you're truly into hand-tools... BUT some of those "obnoxious knotty crap" situations used to throw me a beating, even with power tools... When I could cut it out, the piece would split... Not so much with a Shaper... Light pressure and work it exactly like a file... in FEWER STROKES THAN YOU EXPECT it's gone... so be careful the first time or two. ;o)
@Heloise O'Byrne Hi Heloise, do you have some woodworking experience and have you used a card scraper before? I'm only asking because if it's a sewing machine you cherish I would only recommend using a card scraper if you have some experience using it or practiced on some less valuable pieces. Card scrapers can do more damage quickly than sanding. Sanding is slow but easy for beginners. You can use a card scraper though if you're 100% sure its not veneer. Veneer is just 1 or 2 mm thick and will be scraped off in no time (thus ruining the piece). As for dust, wear an FFP2 mask or N95 mask and you'll be safe. I took the liberty of looking at your youtube profile. Is it the "Madeleine" you uploaded a video of? I can't tell from the video if it is veneer or not. But two points: First, look at the ends of the boards whether you can see end grain (that's where you would see growth rings on the tree). If you can, it likely is not veneered because usually it would be covered by veneer. Second, I saw some nice molding/profiles on some of the boards. Those shapes can either be scraped with a card scraper that is filed to the matching shape or you can wrap some sandpaper around a matching shape like a dowel or round pencil. I hope this helps and have fun! PS others have suggested paint stripper which might work like a charm. I cannot speak to whethers it works with every finish though.
You can also use the bottom end of a 1/4" or 3/8" HSS drill bit or hardened drill rod as a burnishing tool to obtain that hooked edge saving you some money on a dedicated burnishing tool.
Another good one. Your approach to teaching is excellent, efficient, objective (mostly), easy to absorb, and full of good tips. There are plenty of other woodworking TH-camrs out there, and I have a few others that I view often enough. But everyone has their own approach to teaching. Yours is very academic (in a good way), assumes little about your audience, addresses fundamentals (generally), is well articulated - and enjoyable. I don't know how this helps you in your life, but it helps me in mine. Thank you for that! Keep up the great work!
Here's a mechanic's tip to simplify the file and flattening work: after using the file as shown, turn it 90 degrees and gently (you're not forming the hook) pull the file towards you a few times. The result will be a hyper-smooth edge. You may be able to go straight to the finest abrasive.
@@thomasarussellsr Indeed, "draw filing". I think you could use that technique exclusively. It's easier to hold the file square to the edge and your tender fingers are not so close to that ever sharper edge.
Scrapers are always a favorite topic for me to watch and learn from. I learned about them a couple years ago, and am finally comfortable using them, but still have trouble creating a good hook some days. Hopefully another dozen or so sharpenings over the next couple months will fix that.
Great information, I had been primarily using a card scraper to remove glue squeeze out where I glued boards together. Glad that I now know how to properly sharpen and to use them. Seems like I always learn something from watching your videos. Some times the thing that I learn isn't the main topic of the video but something that you did or said during the video. I subscribe to several channels, but there are only a few (yours is one) that I watch as soon as I see it in my subscription list.
I've heard from some old carpenters saying in the old time if they do not wish to own a scraper, plus the wood area you're dealing with is quite small, they'll just use the whiting knife or razor blade to scrape
The Package of scrapers I ordered came with a sort of french curve or coved edge. Any suggestions for creating a hook on these? I really enjoy your efforts in educating us, I never miss your latest.
More or less it's the same exact process, only following the curve(s). On the stones, though, I HIGHLY recommend using that block. It's a lot to concentrate on to just do it all free-hand... I don't know why the file was almost easier free-hand, but you can do that with the block, too... The burnisher is the easiest bit free-hand... MOSTLY, it's easier because the "angle of attach" isn't so crucial to the operation of the card. I'd also suggest (at least the first few times) you do a little bit and then take a few minutes (or more) to remind yourself to breathe and relax. It's easy to get frustrated, but the reality is that "close enough" really IS Close Enough. If it works, you did it! We'll always have room to improve... but it's okay to feel that accomplishment... "Fluffy Shavings! I'm not bad at this sh*t after all!!! YAY!!!" ;o)
Pretty much the same technique. Draw file the edge instead of trying to file it lengthwise. Burnish and draw the edge as with a rectangular one. Try to do it all in one pass, and try not to interrupt your stroke. I suggest using less pressure for more control? But if you screw it up, just redo it. It doesn't take that long. And even if it's screwed up, it may still make some good shavings. I think the important thing is to understand what you're aiming for (a burnished, drawn, and hooked edge) and then jump right in, doing your best. BTW, the curved scraper IS pretty useful, so don't neglect it or be afraid to try it. Play around with the angle when drawing the burr. In some places, you can't really bow the curved scraper, so a more aggressive hook may be needed. Have fun!
If anyone is wanting to delve into period surface prep techniques- first smooth plane, then remove plane tracks or other defects with a scraper, then sand finely, raise the grain, then sand again. It sounds like alot, but it more or less solves the problems that can occur using any single method.
James, this is a great video. I just recently purchased a card scraper set so this was very helpful info. Would you consider doing a video for some other card scraper types, like the curved scrapers? I’d love some tips and tricks for that!
Draw filing as you describe works, but Stumpy's method will help keep the edge straight. His process is like using a jointing plane on wood, vs draw filing is like a short smoothing plane. Less contact area means possible bumps and valleys.
▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR MORE RESOURCES RELATED TO THIS VIDEO▼
*Tools used in this video:*
-Good scrapers: lddy.no/10og2
-Burnisher: lddy.no/10og4
-Fine mill file: amzn.to/2WqQpcI
-300/1000 diamond stone: amzn.to/3my3bAY
*Links promised in this video:*
-Video about sanding vs. scraping vs. planing: th-cam.com/video/GXnU0uwWwsE/w-d-xo.html
-More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/
-Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/
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-Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs
-Facebook: facebook.com/Stumpy-Nubs-Woodworking-Journal-305639859477973/
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*Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!*
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This is one of the most intricate how-to video on how to file a piece of sheet metal.
I really appreciate how you represent inclusivity and lack of bias when it comes to tools and methods.
Seriously. The "we don't have to be snobs..." really hits home and points fingers at other "education based" youtube channels. Love this.
I have been a luthier, stringed instrument builder/repair, for over 40 years, and for most of that time, a lot of sanding/smoothing/flattening is done from many contorted and pretzel positions. About 30 years ago at one of our national guild shows. A young apprenticed man took a standard box cutter blade and with vice grips drug it across a small vice platform at about 80 to 90⁰; effectively ruining the blade (15¢) but creating a uniform burr.This was my introduction to card or metal scraping. With the sharp corners and flat middle and minuscule size for reaching inside of rare vintage instruments; a new age began for me.
"New subscriber" and appreciate the science/preference opinions and histories of tooling and metal smithing. My repertoire in woodworking is thousands of guitars, mandolins... and two houses. Great videos; length of video to useful information ratio is just right.
Some people ask about curved scrapers: Try using a nail set that is in good condition instead of the burnisher. The nail set metal isn't ideal, really, but its diameter is smaller, which increases the pressure, and it has a built in angle because of its taper. For some reason, I find that with a nail set, I am able to more easily establish a hook on a curved scraper than with a regular burnisher. I focus on staying level across the edge with the axis of the nail set, leaving it to the taper to give me the angle to draw over the hook. I think it's just hard to change the direction of the force onto the burnisher as you go around a curve and I think the amplification in pressure from the narrow nail set helps offset that. Just be careful because you don't have as much to hold onto and, if you slip, you can cut yourself on the scraper. Also, lubricate the nail set (and burnisher).
Had to come back here after I got done sharpening this way and an VERY happy over my hook!!! I THOUGHT I was happy with what I was getting till now 😆. This is why your my boy blue!
I’ve been a woodworker for 50 years. There isn’t a single video of yours that does not teach me something new. And….your presentation is one of if not the best on TH-cam. I’ll spread the word. Be well and Be Safe.
As a site carpenter unusually I carry a cabinet scraper in my toolbag. I find it very useful for quickly removing pitch marks from an electric planer and levelling any minor errors in joints when taken at forty five degrees to the joint edge. I do leave the corners square because I find it useful for cleaning rebates.
Prolonged scraper use does however require me to manually straighten my thumbs!
Your videos are PRICELESS....!!! I recently got back into woodworking after decades of being an electrician and this channel is a godsend..... Thank you!
I really appreciate how you express the right method being the one that works for you and your project.
Not only very informative, but also considerate, and with such a pleasant, warm vibe!! I am super glad I discovered this channel
WoW, awesome scraper explained. FINALLY someone shows how to make these work. Thanks for posting this Stumpy.
*"we don't have to be snob (about the tools we use)."*
serious life lesson. applies everywhere.
Using a card scraper produces an almost hypnotic state of pleasure for me instead of hearing an electric sander. Thanks much for all the good videos!
Just got my first cards scrapers today, boy am I ever impressed! Actually, using the scraper came to me pretty quick, once I get the hang of sharpening I see myself doing a hell of a lot less sanding! And I really, really really sanding.
In a previous life I was a baker. So I had and was shown how to sharpen a “bench scraper” the nicer one made by Dexter had a wood handle on what would be used for woodworking would have been a usable edge. These were used simply to scrape off the dough and flour that adhered to the wooden bench tops. When newly sharpened they would also remove a layer of sawdust from the bench top. Over the years I have struggled with the pulling and bending of cabinet scrapers since my muscle memory wants to revert to holding the scraper’s top edge and pushing it, as I wood with a baker’s bench scraper. Thank you for demonstrating the whys and wherefore of using the cabinet scraper as you do.
How do you manage to explain so many different things so well? Keep it up!
As an "old" retired English cabinetmaker I had never heard the term Card Scraper until your video. we know them as cabinet scrapers. I have always had lots of them and found that wide bandsaw blades make excellent cabinet scrapers. I also modified an engineers three corner scraper for burnishing ( rounding off the sharp edges ), works a treat! I did an engineering apprenticeship first where I came across engineers scrapers ( providing that is what you call them LoL).
Dad was a cabinet maker he called them scrapers, so cabinet scrapers makes much more sense, who scrapes card anyway. I can remember him showing me how to sharpen them nearly sixty years ago with a file and a screwdriver shank. I can remember him telling me about burning his thumbs 👍👍
@@soylentgreen326 yup, back when scrapers were softer metal and screwdrivers were made from harder steel. Now the scrapers are made from harder steel than the screwdrivers are so if both are newer, that pairing won't work. A carbide rod will work wonders though on most any scraper you come across. And, you can order carbide rods from Amazon fairly inexpensively.
@@thomasarussellsr Dads was from an old saw if l remember rightly. Using a broken carbide drill, flutes glued in a wooden handle.
@@soylentgreen326 yup, that certainly works. I don't think the term card scraper is because of scraping cards, but because the scraper is in the shape of a card.
Many of the scrapers are a bit smaller and fit into a holder, pocket, or scraping plane.
@@thomasarussellsr who scrapes card was a joke🤷♂️
Just had flash back of 45 year as a young apprentice been show how to sharpen and use scraper . You instructions regarding sharing the same guidance I was given .
The quality of your videos (from information and presentation) has skyrocketed over the past few years. Great work!
Best thing about the scraper holder is you can get into tight spots one handed! Super useful.
James, you never cease to bring so much understanding to the topics you teach about. I bought some scrapers a while back but haven't used them because I didn't know how and how to prep them. Time to get back in the shop and give it a try! Thank you. BTW, I loved the statement about not being a snob about what tool you use.
Never knew how to sharpen or use scrapers before. First time I have ever seen any one give a scraping lesson. I tried sharpening one on a bench grinder once and that sure was a disaster. Thank you so much. Finally seeing a tutorial is great.
I've tried several times to sharpen scrapers, all to no avail. Your explanation is very clear and concise. My hope is renewed. We'll see in a day or two. Thanks much.
i dont do woodwork or carpentry, i have no intention of ever doing so, yet i watch all your videos, sign of a quality channel i guess
Excellent tutorial.
I keep two sets of scrapers, one for rough work (drawfile and go) and a set prepped for fine work (hone and burnish). The former is for shaping, the latter for finishing.
As usual, the straight story, clearly and logically explained. Thanks, Stump.
I have the Veritas holder and find it a great help for arthritic hands. Alternating between that and freehanding makes the job easier.
i made one for same reason. watching him use a card scraper makes my hands hurt.
Undulation.... Word of the day! This really answered a lot of questions I did not know I had about the scraper. Completely educating video for me... Now to go out and sharpen those scrapers properly! :)
This invaluable tool was always referred to as a ‘thumb blister’ with good reason. Great tutorial.
Thanks for putting this video out. I was kind of intimidated by scrapers but this quick video helped me understand how to use them to the point where I would feel comfortable buying and using one.
Start practicing on hardwood. I find them difficult to use on softwood.
I think scrapers are the best way to get out burn marks or machining marks. WAY faster and easier than sanding!!!
Welcome to the club!!
Over time and collecting on top of restoring old tools and collectibles for others, I've come to understand something about the technologies... The more "early" or "antiquated" or "primitive" it is, generally... the more "idiot proof" it really was in care, upkeep, and even use... You just find the basics and it doesn't take long to "figure it out as you go".
Tech' is funny that way. As we've modernized, we've actually complicated the HELL out of things to trade off "using your head" for "using your back"... as it were. A hand saw (for instance) isn't very sophisticated... The rules are simple, start the cut, and point the teeth in the direction you want to cut... it cuts that way... Mastering those very simple basics makes it possible to cut nearly any cut with almost any saw... A power saw, however, is 98% setting it up. You actually have to know by other tools, measurements, matching lines, and blah-blah-blah that the saw is going to make exactly the cut you need BEFORE you even touch the wood... AND then we're still building jigs and Jigs and JIGS to get newer, clever, more precise and repeated cuts for our projects...
When I could just draw the damn lines and mark into the waste, and what I don't remove with a handsaw in a few "relief cuts", I can remove with a chisel and mallet... smooth it up, AND I'm done before my buddy has his jig arranged for the power saw...
...and he gets pissed at me when my joinery is tighter than his in half the time...
Not being a snob here... BUT if you're interested in a single project at a time... and there's rarely a call for a bunch of cuts... Hand tools all the way.
IF on the other hand, you have a regular need for a hundred or thousand of a certain thing done exactly the same way, then POWER TOOLS will save you time and frustration... come up short a couple dozen? If you have the notes and jig (or the thing is still set up) just run off a few dozen and call it a day...
BUT modern tools tend to be multiple use, and sophisticated... Older tools... not so much. UGG the caveman probably invented it, so how hard could it be???
Bottom line is, DO NOT let the older fashions intimidate you. We always have Wood By Wright and Stumpy Nubbs and the like. Have a sit for a lunch or snack and video... and jump in. Really, for a card scraper, all you need is a flat and straight piece of HARDENED steel to get started... Hell, I've even seen them SHAPED for particular purposes. ;o)
Watching this again, I absolutely LOVE your channel... think I'll vegg out this afternoon and binge watch some episodes
Great video, thank you! I like the remark at the end, about how it's totally fine for people to keep sanding if that is what they prefer.
Your method of setting up the scraper is clear and sensible. I have a burnisher, etc., and have used scrapers on and off over the years, but perhaps with your better methods I will use them more. Now all I want is to have someone show me how to successfully use my Veritas Scraping Plane, which I have never been able to do. :)
Gotta love the scraper. For rough work like scraping old varnish off tool handles, I just file it and roll the edge a bit with a burnisher. Rolls little chips like a champ. I have a scrap 3" wide bandsaw blade and can make custom shape scrapers out of it.
The scraper saves a lot of money and dust compared to sandpaper.
Realky good tutorial on sharpening scrapers
love my card scrapers, especially for hardwood and 'waney' grain. excellent video
Thank you for this. I use a scraper quite a lot, but I can see my sharpening technique needs refining. It is amazing what you can do with a simple rectangle of steel. I used to work in a woodworking store and I can tell you a lot of woodworkers feel intimidated by these. I noticed several people asked about sharpening curved scrapers and I have the same question.
@Diane Jenkins I just posted a comment about curved scrapers. Hope it helps!
Always a mystery, tools from the past. Thank you, I have always wanted to see a basic primer on the care and feeding of card scrapers, this was exactly what I was looking for. At $9 for two this is a real deal and low risk for upgrading my tool kit. Keep up the good work, your tool videos are the best and my favorite.
That's the business card!
You continue to delight and surprise.
best explanation I've seen yet, thank you
I used a Japanese saw for the first time about 15 years ago.
After 2 days use I took my Sandvik crosscut saw and made scrapers from it.
I use a highly polished butchers steel (Swibo) as a burnisher.
Another 5 star tutorial Mr. H👌
Very timely seeing this video a year after you posted I’ve been scraping black locust and wanted to know exactly what you shared. Thank you very much for an excellent presentation, I’m excited to get my scraper sharpened and get back to it👌👍😎
I just picked up a set of these card scrapers, so looking for videos on usage - this was very helpful.
Beautifully explained and demonstrated.
Awesome as always James!
I just love this channel so much.
Thanks again, I've got a 3'X4' Sapele hand planed table top coming up in the next week or so. This video is going to really help.
Thank you for showing that scalper holder.
I inherited one from my father as part of a random collection of tools and I always wondered what it was for.
Although I did suspect that it was for holding scrapers.
Best instructional card scraper sharpening video!
I’ve been learning the fine art of scraping. I was amazed how smooth the wood was afterward. I also used it to smooth a glue line and checked my progress by putting the scraper along the wood and looking for those pesky bit of light. It worked great and my glue line was smooth and tight. Love these things!
I really enjoy the way you teach, James. Thank you!
I've used scrapers for many years too, I never thought of polishing the hook end . THANKS FOR YOUR ADVICE ON THIS ONE. MIKE 😎
All very good. My scrapers of various sizes are derived from old wood saw blades cut up with an angle grinder and a hook produced on a bench grinder in about 10 seconds. I'm working on an oak dining table and they are really effective. I get lots of 'fluffy' shavings and no scratches. Cheap, simple, effective.
Another great video; I’ll never use or own a scraper, but I love learning nonetheless. Thank you again.
I was using a card scraper for the first time earlier today, to lightly plane an inset flush with the main workpiece. As someone who has trouble setting up a hand plane consistently, the scraper was a godsend. As always your suggestions were clear and informative, I’ll be sure to try them out soon.
Hi mate, just a quick little tip if you don’t mind. James has some vids of setting up hand planes that are really good but you should also check out the stuff by Rob Cosman on TH-cam. Rob is the go to for hand plane stuff and I’m sure that you’ll find any question answered that you can’t find here on James’ channel. Another good resource is Shannon Rogers of woodtalk podcast fame with his channel RenaissanceWW. Hope this is of some help as additional material to the brilliant work that James does here. Take care and stay safe out there mate, all the best from a fellow woodworker down under :)
Jonathan Katz-Moses is an excellent resources/teacher as well. But yeah, Rob C is the man though for sure...
Thanks for sharing with us James, sure appreciate your help with the scrapers. Fred.🙏🏻🙏🏻👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👋👋
I love using a scraper when appropriate but my technique, particularly with sharpening, needs improving. So this was an excellent simple explanation of how to do that well and consistently.
For heat build up prevention I like to flip the scraper over every two or three strokes. It makes sense to me to try to evenly use all four edges as well.
Excellent vid, as usual.👍 I discovered the cabinet scraper ten or fifteen years ago. After practicing the prep and making the hook a few times, you will not believe how effectively a simple tool like this can perform.
When you start getting fluffy shavings and not dust, you’re there. (Initially, I was pressing too hard on the burnisher. A friend who is a finish carpenter advised using a bit less force. Press firmly, not hard to get a good hook, which will be pretty small if done correctly. Too much of a hook, and it will break off faster.)
Great tutorial! I always used an old valve stem from an engine for a burnisher. It's a very hard round piece of steel and does the job of a burnisher hopefully free of charge.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Me too!
What a brilliant video to both sharpen and use scrapers. You've removed the trepidation I have for attempting to use them more often. You have a very nice delivery. Thanks
Great information and presentation. Outstanding video!
Great video! I learned a lot about improving my sharpening process. I think I'll buy a burnisher (I've been using a chisel instead).
Card scrapers are also a lot faster and more aggressive in my experience (depending on usage). For removing old lacquer (or deep gouges, tear out from planing, or milling marks) it is A LOT faster than sanding. (At least faster than using a random orbital sander even with 40 grit. A belt sander might be able to keep up). I can't say about producing a smooth finish though. A sander is "fool proof" but a card scraper needs care and attention to produce smooth, even surfaces.
Card scrapers do require more physical effort though. But on the plus, they're quiet (irrelevant for some).
Speaking from experience, save your time and throw the sandpaper directly into the trash, and use a scraper if you're trying to remove paint/lacquer.
The sandpaper gets clogged and useless so fast
Not sure on the orbital... BUT you CAN unclog a belt sander by running the sole of an old tennis shoe or sneaker against the belt a few seconds at a time... scrubs crap right out for at least 3 or 4 times the lifespan...
...screwy enough, THANK YOU TIM ALLEN!!!
If you need unadulterated aggression, you can also get a "Shaper" and blades... They're not expensive and DO last pretty well... Some stores keep them over in the "Automotive Body" section of hardware and call them "Sure-Forms"... BUT because they work in fiberglass and aluminum or similarly soft metals... They're HELL ON WHEELS at moving wood, paint, lacquer, and obnoxious knotty crap...
The actual tool looks like a cheese-grater mated with a file-holder for an illegitimate love-child... BUT there's a screw right at the handle end, to remove the "horrific rabid cheese-grater" blade, and you can get flat blades, flats that cut to one or both sides, OR rounded blades for them... It's not a "proper" finishing tool, but it's a great way in some spots to REALLY save on work, especially if you're truly into hand-tools...
BUT some of those "obnoxious knotty crap" situations used to throw me a beating, even with power tools... When I could cut it out, the piece would split... Not so much with a Shaper... Light pressure and work it exactly like a file... in FEWER STROKES THAN YOU EXPECT it's gone... so be careful the first time or two. ;o)
I like scrapers and using a stripper over sanding to death!!
@Heloise O'Byrne Hi Heloise, do you have some woodworking experience and have you used a card scraper before? I'm only asking because if it's a sewing machine you cherish I would only recommend using a card scraper if you have some experience using it or practiced on some less valuable pieces. Card scrapers can do more damage quickly than sanding. Sanding is slow but easy for beginners. You can use a card scraper though if you're 100% sure its not veneer. Veneer is just 1 or 2 mm thick and will be scraped off in no time (thus ruining the piece). As for dust, wear an FFP2 mask or N95 mask and you'll be safe.
I took the liberty of looking at your youtube profile. Is it the "Madeleine" you uploaded a video of? I can't tell from the video if it is veneer or not. But two points: First, look at the ends of the boards whether you can see end grain (that's where you would see growth rings on the tree). If you can, it likely is not veneered because usually it would be covered by veneer. Second, I saw some nice molding/profiles on some of the boards. Those shapes can either be scraped with a card scraper that is filed to the matching shape or you can wrap some sandpaper around a matching shape like a dowel or round pencil.
I hope this helps and have fun!
PS others have suggested paint stripper which might work like a charm. I cannot speak to whethers it works with every finish though.
You can also use the bottom end of a 1/4" or 3/8" HSS drill bit or hardened drill rod as a burnishing tool to obtain that hooked edge saving you some money on a dedicated burnishing tool.
Another good one. Your approach to teaching is excellent, efficient, objective (mostly), easy to absorb, and full of good tips. There are plenty of other woodworking TH-camrs out there, and I have a few others that I view often enough. But everyone has their own approach to teaching. Yours is very academic (in a good way), assumes little about your audience, addresses fundamentals (generally), is well articulated - and enjoyable. I don't know how this helps you in your life, but it helps me in mine. Thank you for that! Keep up the great work!
Awesome tips, James! Thanks a lot! 😃
I'm going to put them in good use!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Excellent contribution to the craft!
Thanks for the refresher.
Thank for the video. These simple tools are one of my most challenging to use well.
Here's a mechanic's tip to simplify the file and flattening work: after using the file as shown, turn it 90 degrees and gently (you're not forming the hook) pull the file towards you a few times. The result will be a hyper-smooth edge. You may be able to go straight to the finest abrasive.
That is called "draw filing". And yeah, great tip.
@@thomasarussellsr
Indeed, "draw filing". I think you could use that technique exclusively. It's easier to hold the file square to the edge and your tender fingers are not so close to that ever sharper edge.
Great tutorial, James. I use a card scraper on almost every project. Scott
Excellent. Video is now in my how to library. Thanks James!
Excellent video. This is something I have wanted to learn. I will be saving this one for future reference.
Very informative, thank you! Your knowledge makes trying new things a little less intimidating ☺️
Scrapers are always a favorite topic for me to watch and learn from. I learned about them a couple years ago, and am finally comfortable using them, but still have trouble creating a good hook some days. Hopefully another dozen or so sharpenings over the next couple months will fix that.
Thanks James that was the best tutorial I have watched on sharpening a card scraper.
Great video! Like that holder!
I really like card scrapers for removing finishes like varnish that can quickly clog sandpaper
Good tip
Thank you, James. I now have the knowledge I need to add scrapers to my tool kit. I will most definitely be using the affiliate links!
Great information, I had been primarily using a card scraper to remove glue squeeze out where I glued boards together. Glad that I now know how to properly sharpen and to use them. Seems like I always learn something from watching your videos. Some times the thing that I learn isn't the main topic of the video but something that you did or said during the video. I subscribe to several channels, but there are only a few (yours is one) that I watch as soon as I see it in my subscription list.
Very helpful tips. Thank you James!
thx. learned a lot. never knew about the draw and hook part.
I've heard from some old carpenters saying in the old time if they do not wish to own a scraper, plus the wood area you're dealing with is quite small, they'll just use the whiting knife or razor blade to scrape
Another brilliant how to 👍
Thank you, this is one of those areas that seemed to be a complete mystery to me.
Thanks for a great informative article 👍
Great job, keep them coming
Hi James, How about doing a video on making a few types of window shutters. Thanks for the great job you do on your instructing.
absolutely amazing. I've never heard of a scrapper before. Thank you.
The Package of scrapers I ordered came with a sort of french curve or coved edge. Any suggestions for creating a hook on these? I really enjoy your efforts in educating us, I never miss your latest.
I came here to ask the same question
More or less it's the same exact process, only following the curve(s). On the stones, though, I HIGHLY recommend using that block. It's a lot to concentrate on to just do it all free-hand... I don't know why the file was almost easier free-hand, but you can do that with the block, too...
The burnisher is the easiest bit free-hand... MOSTLY, it's easier because the "angle of attach" isn't so crucial to the operation of the card.
I'd also suggest (at least the first few times) you do a little bit and then take a few minutes (or more) to remind yourself to breathe and relax. It's easy to get frustrated, but the reality is that "close enough" really IS Close Enough. If it works, you did it!
We'll always have room to improve... but it's okay to feel that accomplishment... "Fluffy Shavings! I'm not bad at this sh*t after all!!! YAY!!!" ;o)
Pretty much the same technique. Draw file the edge instead of trying to file it lengthwise. Burnish and draw the edge as with a rectangular one. Try to do it all in one pass, and try not to interrupt your stroke. I suggest using less pressure for more control?
But if you screw it up, just redo it. It doesn't take that long. And even if it's screwed up, it may still make some good shavings.
I think the important thing is to understand what you're aiming for (a burnished, drawn, and hooked edge) and then jump right in, doing your best.
BTW, the curved scraper IS pretty useful, so don't neglect it or be afraid to try it.
Play around with the angle when drawing the burr. In some places, you can't really bow the curved scraper, so a more aggressive hook may be needed.
Have fun!
@@DuffyHomoHabilis Great tips and details! Thanks... ;o)
Nice tumbler. I just got the 26 oz bottle and 20 oz travel mug in the same color
Great video, thank you
If anyone is wanting to delve into period surface prep techniques- first smooth plane, then remove plane tracks or other defects with a scraper, then sand finely, raise the grain, then sand again. It sounds like alot, but it more or less solves the problems that can occur using any single method.
James, this is a great video. I just recently purchased a card scraper set so this was very helpful info. Would you consider doing a video for some other card scraper types, like the curved scrapers? I’d love some tips and tricks for that!
I have always held my file perpendicular to the edge of the card scraper and find it MUCH easier that trying to hold it parallel as you do.
Draw filing as you describe works, but Stumpy's method will help keep the edge straight. His process is like using a jointing plane on wood, vs
draw filing is like a short smoothing plane. Less contact area means possible bumps and valleys.
As usual, great tutorial!
Thanks! I needed the refresher lesson.