Thanks! Yeah, the meat of the route is around the big flaring crack after the first few feet. Wrestle through that and then it's super chill to finish.
I do trust my cam and obvious nut placements. Weird nuts, hexs and tricams are still in practice mode. I also want to state that this route is well within my ability and I felt comfortable placing my own protection. I had also onsighted it the week before recording this video, so I was familiar with how to protect the crux and the movement on it.
Antonia G. I appreciate the concern. I'll keep my response simple. My climbing partner and I had both onsighted this route the weekend prior, so I was familiar with the route, its moves, holds, difficulty, and gear placements. Although it looks like crack climbing, the route does not climb like a crack, it's very flared. There is one finger lock that we found and multiple comments on MP confirm this. I used the same gear that my partner used for the crux (first four pieces and first 20 feet) and after that, I am comfortable enough in 5.7 terrain to have some run outs while finding good placements. I'm happy to explain more if you'd like/disagree/etc. Trust me, I would not have climbed this route again if I did not feel comfortable placing my own gear. Thanks
@Antonio G we can't even see the placements well enough to determine whether they are marginal or not. Have you climbed the route? With all my due respect, please use better internet etiquette.
@@FlatOutFE yes sure... excuse me, you can clearly see that (20+ years trad climbing experience in different continents, and several courses taken). Therefore I am afraid I used the right etiquette, my friend. But thank you for your kind suggestion anyway. I still firmly believe this is a very bad example for youngsters who wants to get initiated in trad climbing since this is not a game, this is particularly risky, and there are lives at stake. So, maybe we all should be a little bit more accountable with our comments & posted videos? Proper climbing courses with professional qualified instructors save a lot of easily avoidable accidents.
@@antoniog.8839 20+ years? So you are a youngster then. I just watched it again. You cannot actually see the head of the cam in any of the placements. They are shadowed.
@@FlatOutFE Youngster me? I wish I was, my friend😱🤣 I see you don’t really have too much time in your hands to properly read... Peace out & climb safe‼️
Learn those jams! Two spots I saw good one. Either way, nice climb and nice lead. RTSO!
Thanks Isaac! This is one of the reasons I am doing more trad routes lately. I'm trying to learn the different techniques to be more well rounded.
Man that climb looked like a breeze after the first 20 feet. Nice send!
Thanks! Yeah, the meat of the route is around the big flaring crack after the first few feet. Wrestle through that and then it's super chill to finish.
wow 11b for your second trad lead, good job!
Do you already trust you protections?
I do trust my cam and obvious nut placements. Weird nuts, hexs and tricams are still in practice mode. I also want to state that this route is well within my ability and I felt comfortable placing my own protection. I had also onsighted it the week before recording this video, so I was familiar with how to protect the crux and the movement on it.
With all my due respect: No jamming, marginal gear placements... please climb safer!
Antonia G. I appreciate the concern. I'll keep my response simple. My climbing partner and I had both onsighted this route the weekend prior, so I was familiar with the route, its moves, holds, difficulty, and gear placements. Although it looks like crack climbing, the route does not climb like a crack, it's very flared. There is one finger lock that we found and multiple comments on MP confirm this. I used the same gear that my partner used for the crux (first four pieces and first 20 feet) and after that, I am comfortable enough in 5.7 terrain to have some run outs while finding good placements. I'm happy to explain more if you'd like/disagree/etc. Trust me, I would not have climbed this route again if I did not feel comfortable placing my own gear. Thanks
@Antonio G we can't even see the placements well enough to determine whether they are marginal or not. Have you climbed the route? With all my due respect, please use better internet etiquette.
@@FlatOutFE yes sure... excuse me, you can clearly see that (20+ years trad climbing experience in different continents, and several courses taken).
Therefore I am afraid I used the right etiquette, my friend. But thank you for your kind suggestion anyway.
I still firmly believe this is a very bad example for youngsters who wants to get initiated in trad climbing since this is not a game, this is particularly risky, and there are lives at stake. So, maybe we all should be a little bit more accountable with our comments & posted videos?
Proper climbing courses with professional qualified instructors save a lot of easily avoidable accidents.
@@antoniog.8839 20+ years? So you are a youngster then. I just watched it again. You cannot actually see the head of the cam in any of the placements. They are shadowed.
@@FlatOutFE Youngster me? I wish I was, my friend😱🤣 I see you don’t really have too much time in your hands to properly read... Peace out & climb safe‼️