One of the paradoxes of black powder shooting is that they load best completely dry and shoot best completely lubed. Once this is well understood, they shoot as powerfully and reliably as anyone would want.
I cut grease notches using a needle file into my Remington base pin just like Blackie did. I expected it to not make any difference. WRONG! It actually worked quite well. My gun lasted about twice as long before drying out. I'll have to try packing that long notch underneath and holding the gun down after shooting a cylinder to see if it works even better.
Your instructional videos are an absolutely invaluable resource. Thank you, Sir. Ive noticed that, when reloading the cylinder, if i pull the cylinder pin forward and just smear some of the lube thats allready all over the gun (i grease the front of the loaded cylinders rather than using lubed patches) it keeps everything moving very nicely. I recently put 7 cylinders thru it in about 25 degree weather and it stayed operating smoothly and dissasembled afterward no problem.
My old '58 Remmie 44 is an old Navy Arms kit gun (Pietta). Now, I got it used and abused in the late 1980s and the guy I got it from got it used as well. Mine has always had a small notch cut in the top of the cylinder pin jin the front part of the pin just at the point where the cylinder meets the barrel. That groove was in it when I got the gun and I don't think it's doing much for the lubrication of the cylinder pin. I've always packed that flat area on the bottom of the pin with grease as I was taught back in the day that was what it was for. I do think I'll try your grooves though and some of the ideas you've put out in other videos. I also shoot a Uberti cap and ball revolving carbine (Remmie) and will try them on it as well.
Blackie, you ol' " possum belly & hawg jowl eater" you!!! This video proves once again WHY you are my #1 go-to guy for the best C&B information! On all aspects of the C&B's, how did you acquire ALL your knowledge? Reading, experience, fellow shooters, "dumb luck"?! Probably an accumulation of ALL of them, plus many years of shooting them is my guess. My first introduction into black powder guns (& all guns!) was in about 1968 or earlier when I bought my Navy Arms .36 brass frame Colt (Confederate!) revolver. I still have & love this gun & might require it in my "cold dead hands" when I'm in my casket (unloaded of course!)!!! It's got a tighter action lockup than ANY S&W revolver I've ever seen anywhere! No cylinder bolt score marks either! No idea if a gunsmith had worked it over. I bought it because I greatly love the overall style of the Colts, especially the gorgeous curves of the grip frame & hammer & recoil shield. The barrel ain't bad either! My "love affair" with the Colts STILL STANDS (I'm 81 now)!!! And as always, "please don't squeeze da Shaman"!!!!!
Thanks again Black, great idea. I'm going to horror freight tomorrow and get get a new set of needle files. Hurricane Ida blew my others away. God bless brother.
A yound lady by the name of Diane Huston point ed me to you video on cylinde pin hard to remove when you ipm changeing cylinders. Thanks for the infor will use it when I go out to the range. (Mississippi Gulf Coast, USA).
Love the channel Blackie! I especially like the BP videos. I have a New Model Army, it has a full-size barrel though. I make a mix of Crisco & pure beeswax( not paraffin!) and coat the end of the chambers- I'm gonna try cutting grooves in the arbour. Thanks for the idea!
Some folks have successfully installed a Colt 45 Generation 3 bushing onto the end of the cylinder of the NMA, also relieving the frame slightly for room where the cylinder pin is. This supposedly makes the NMA resistant to fouling in the same way as the Starr and Rogers&Spencer revolvers that already have them.
in order to keep my remi 1858 up and running I use a generous dose of grease on top of the bullet in addition to grease base pin. as Mr. Blackie described, in case of closed frame BP revolvers fauling is forced back and starts to build up between barrel entry and front of cylinder in close proximity of base pin. if grase is applied on top of the bullet it's mixing with fouling with every shot and a grease&foul seal is build up at the barrel entry, preventing fouling to block cylinder from rotating.
My experience too, with lamb's tallow and beeswax mix. Smells nice and works fine. Wiping front of cylinder works great too. I wipe it and keep it greased and it works well.
Have an 1858 .44 Sheriff I converted to cartridge. Also have a full size1858 .44 black powder pistol that is the most naturally-pointing handgun I've ever fired. Best real-world BP revolver tips anywhere, thanks Blackie!
You can remove your cylinder rod - It's easier then you think, I used a short 3 inch wooden dowel to knock out my catch underneath the barrel. Just aim for the base and not the actual catch part! Make sure you use something like a little locktite in there when you knock it back in. I love your videos by the way!
Thanks again Blackie mainly for the video an knowledge but also for not talking about co-vid, the end of world, political b.s., riots, food shortages, civil war, etc., and nosium. The world might be going to hell in hand basket but that's what great-grandparents said. As long as I can keep my powder dry and shoot straight and the sun shines an the polar ice doesn't melt to fast and bees don't go extinct...oh sorry, I went ranting. Thanks for the video. Your a true expert.
Wish I had known why my experience with Remmies was so bad. I blamed it on Italian mass production assembly line shortcuts but I did use lots of Crisco on those cylinders, which only made things bad & messy. I may revisit those 1858's someday after some custom filing on the base pins, but I'll leave the Crisco in the kitchen & try some Bore Butter wads. Anybody ever try cardboard treated with Borax to fire proof homemade wads?
i played wit hit back i nthe day and thats the prob cut carboard does well but it can catch fire and be a firebug in a bad way..there is a reason they use wool felt it will not burn..i have used wax coated carboard like from cat food boxes or ceral boxes in my snake loads and had no problem with those
@blackiethomas got this thing hitting paper at 10 yrds on trees that are about 3 ft across. It shoots low and to the right. I have peer .457, 777powder, and cci 11 magnums. I have been working on different loads.started on 20grains and couldn't hit anything. 25grains and by luck I was able to see the tree behind and to the right was hit low. Did a few more with 25grains and just couldn't figure it out. I put 35 grains in it and hit the tree I was aiming at with all five. Went and got targets, took my son shooting. 35 grains 30 feet away, down six and right six. Backed off 5 grains with 2 cylinders and could even hit the tree. So I Did 35 grains again filed the front sight down a bit and rear sight left, got 4 inches down and 4 to the right with some low flyers. Gonna hit again with some more files. Because of this I have named mine violet blue or noname jane because she likes a hot load. My question is how long will a new model army sheriff last pounding out lead like that, and what can I do to make it take it better?? And also, do you have any advise on the difference between compressed vs uncompressed for 777
I've had some success with putting a bit of lithium grease on that flat part of the base pin. Don't use it anywhere else, but the cylinder itself will keep bp residue from getting into the grease.
Blackie, Sir, I have been working on making paper cartridges(just the paper, no powder or ball, etc., so far). I got kinda carried away, and have made several hundred of them using the "Capandball" former". As a 'Thank you' for helping me to become a better outdoors man/person, I would like to send you some, if you would be willing. I would like to ask you not to sell them(I may try that myself someday), and perhaps you could test a few for me(I do not have a place to test them at this time). But other than that you can do anything you want to with them. Please advise at your leisure. Great video, Thumbs Up!! Hope you and yours have been able to avoid Covid.
bit of a design oversight with the sheriff model 5" being too short to remove the cylinder pin. I'm glad i got the 8" gun because those pins wear out the hot gas cuts into it over time. 2 cylinder loads is what I typically get before fouled. i admit i stuff as much powder as possible that doesn't help the fouling.
I know that I told you before but I used to keep a pickled egg bottle full of Kerosone for my brother so he could take his Uberti Remington 44 Army apart after a rainy Black Powder Only week end. Ever go to the Ozarks hunting or fishing bring a large poncho. Remingtons seem to work great on the range but not so much in the field conditions. I don' how Bill kept "Lucrecia" running.
What i did when i crowned the end of the barrel i also did the forcing cone and i filed a flat spot on the bottom of the pin keep it butterd up it I did the trigger too it shoots beautifully
First, love your videos. As for the grooving, sorry, I just can't make myself weaken a major part that way. HOWEVER, I'm extremely pleased to see this video where you use the flat of the cylinder rod as "lube storage". That's exactly what I've been doing all along. When I realized that the rings around the Colt arbors was for holding extra lube, I immediately decided to use the Remington flat for the same purpose in exactly the same way. It definitely works, and I was able to avoid giving myself PTSD from filing grooves. 😊
Good word Bro, I always use wonder wads an bore butter over the cylinder. Just a habit I got into 40 yrs ago for shooting round balls, mite adjust it in the future, depending on what you figure out with the K. O. bullets in .44 cal, thx for the vid .
I've been trying some of the Teflon lubes. The pure stuff is $$$ I used a ceramic release agent called Tryflon. Worked very good but $$. A dry but slick product won't collect burnt powder is my thoughts.
Take a 6inch file and file the flat on the base pin just a little to put an edge on it. Don't deburr it. The sharper edge will scrape off more fouling when you turn the cylinder a few times on half cock. If you find the base pin stuck, just dribble hot water over the front of the cylinder and frame area. It releases easily. I've seen hammer damaged base pins!
I always liked the Remington unit did cum up way faster than my Colt clones and I end up selling them. I'm looking for an Uberti 1858 but no one has them right or much of anything else.
I also considered taking a tap and die set to cut threads into the cylinder pin similar to the colts and use that for a grease groove. More coarse threads would have more longevity for the pin before it needed be replaced.
On my 1873 Pietta shooting pyrodex it gets clogged up after like two cylinders. I recalled greasing the arbor on my navy so I greased it with mink oil and now it lasts much longer. The problem is the Pietta basepin sucks, it has grooves on the underside only to stop, so its hard to fit at times and if there's too much grease it slides right on through. However I have been able to shoot it a whole range session without it being too bad. I wish they made them more like the original colt pins with the screw on bushing.
I had thought it was friction against the forcing cone after talking to some SASS tuber, but then I checked and I could still see light in between it so it was definitely the base pin.
keeping cap guns going BOOM😉. 👍 I only shoot round ball being frugal but looking forward to more bullet reviews. Was just having a discussion live to see or hear your input. Mild loads are nice in my 1851 Navy about 14grns is cost effective but ive shot plenty full as in FULL loads also. I wonder what was common amount both in civil war as well as out west on frontier for loading bp grains with roundball ???
@@williammccaslin8527 well ya can fill it and crush it no problem , accuracy may suffer depending but thats irrelevnt not the question.. The question is what was the typical load in those times , in modern times most load almost anemic target loads. The exception are those of us who hunt I believe load heavier balancing accuracy. Surely there must be some data from times past of say wild Bill or the manual of arms for cavalrymen in civil war era...
the paper ctg issued during the civil war was actually a mid level load..the ordinance board new from testing bores would foul quickly..and a max load produced less shots before the gun was so gumed up to be un serviceable and had to be cleaned..so loas of around 18 gr for the 36 and 30 for the 44 was common..this did 2 things limited waste of powder and kept the gun shooting longer..it was not as powerful as it could be nor did it have the range it could have but it served well in the close order battle plans of the day
@@BLACKIETHOMAS you're correct! Mine started with one. I've since acquired a bunch of Colts but I miss how much more that Remmy was just built to take a beating.
QUESTION .Any way you can do a tutorial on making our own lubricated wads?I love my .36 Remington new model NAVY cast my own .375 R.E.A.L. bullets from a Lee mold,but it doesn't cut lead like a ball and I don't feel to safe without a wonder wad sealing that chamber.Thank You in advance and God Bless!!
Awesome video! I don't have any percussion revolvers... at least not yet. (Lol) But they are just as cool as cartridge revolvers, and maybe even more so, because of their history. When I see the guns of the yesteryear, I'm like the kid in the cartoon, that always looks out the window in school and daydreams. Ralph I believe his name is. I think about who used it, and what they used it for. That's when men were men. Sorry there I go daydreaming. Blackie you got me in suspenders now, I can't wait for you cartridge conversion video. I not only have the 1860 type 11 richards conversions, I also have a Cimarron 1862 pocket police, which I cut the barrel back to 3", it comes with a 6" barrel. I made a shoulder holster for it, for when I shoot the pocket pistol event in cowboy action. Can't wait for your video. Are you ready yet? KIDDING! Again great video.
I didn't realize it was a problem, I shoot with no lube, 25-30 grains pyrodex P under a round ball and the base pin got stuck in place before it started dragging on my cylinder
it varies from gun to gun i have had a few that would shoot fine thru a full match and never bind and i have had 2 that would so foul after 2 cyl that you had to hand turn the cyl when you cocked it
on the remington, is there room between the frame and cylinder to fit a small rubber o-ring? they are cheap, and even if you needed a new one every time you clean the gun, it might keep it running longer.
Very helpful information!!! Good to know. I must ask. You remember a brand of lubricant by Dixie Gun works called Blue and the Gray? I used as patch lube but was too thick so it served as chamber grease. Worked good but never bought it again and used CVA lube in a convenient tube. It was not as good. Anything you suggest for (brand ) lube?
Summer of 2021 and I just saw a short video on the new Pietta Ace 1858 "bulldog". Any chance you will get to play with one? It looks really sweet and has a clever basepin release that looks like it would make for very quick cylinder swaps.
I get all the problems you pointed out, on the 1858 so I will definitely be trying this, just one more thing after shooting my cylinder keeps locking up, as you try to put it in the half cock position the cylinder lock will not stay down,I have to continually cock it and eventually I can get the cylinder to spin freely, anything you can help with?
Hey Blackie, ive "done up" a revolver from watching your antiquing videos, do u have a site which viewers can submit pictures on? A friend of mine did a carving on the wooden grip thats just too cool to keep to myself.
I went to value world, like a salvation army, and bought a plain purse that seemed the right size. I extended the shoulder strap with a piece of leather by cutting the purse strap in the middle and made a nice wide shoulder piece and then attatched the cut ends of the strap to it. Next i made a leather flap, tooled an eagle onto it and attatched it to the purse. I could have made the whole thing i guess but it saved some time. Belts are also usually cheap there too. Goes nicely with my blunderbuss, holds shot, wool, caps, rod end tools, knife, matches, plus ball starter and ball. The purse was $2 and the leather was left over from other projects. i did buy some Chicago screws $7 from tractor supply to attach the leather. But that is in case you have to make a quick feild repair the screws and leather can always be repurposed to repair a bridle or boot or tent, etc. I figured that increased my possibles.
for a cheap work around dixiegunworks sells a plain canvas haversack like 20 bucks that can be a good starting point till you find the one you really want
Hi Like a revolver won't fire because the cap won't fire. I have wait. Because it can shoot ?? Then I can keep shooting and nothing will happen ?? Regards Artur Poland
Hey BLACKIE, you ol’ “disenfranchised bellywamper” you! Yes, a “term of endearment”!! I loves ya & hope you’re blessed to lots of safety & good health! You are STILL my “GO TO GUY” for C&B information. On the cylinder pin, instead of just a “flat spot” for a “grease reservoir”, why didn’t Remington simply make a slightly rebated or smaller diameter grease reservoir on the circumfrance of the pin, therefore holding more lube? Surely that would not diminish the strength of the pin. Of course imitating Colt’s lube rings as on their arbor would have been the best grease or lube reservoir! Sure would be nice to know what kind of work you do. Seems like most ALL of the gun reviewers prefer to keep their “vocation” a secret! I’d guess you are NOT a “hash slinger” at the local McDonalds!!! One thing I’ve never seen any gun reviewer do on their revolvers is “range check” the cylinder/barrel alignment! Bet that would open up a bag of surprises on some revolvers! “Gesundheit”!
A question about Remington base pins. Mine is about 25 years old and the base pin has a flash cut in it (just under where the cylinder meets the barrel) from the many rounds I have put through it over the years. Will this continue until it ruins the pin or has it probably gone as far as it can already?
you are correct..i would contact dixie gun works tell them its a pietta or a uberti and they will get you the correct pin..its a easy swap and like you said over the long time its a part that will wear out over time
One of the paradoxes of black powder shooting is that they load best completely dry and shoot best completely lubed. Once this is well understood, they shoot as powerfully and reliably as anyone would want.
I cut grease notches using a needle file into my Remington base pin just like Blackie did. I expected it to not make any difference. WRONG! It actually worked quite well. My gun lasted about twice as long before drying out. I'll have to try packing that long notch underneath and holding the gun down after shooting a cylinder to see if it works even better.
Your instructional videos are an absolutely invaluable resource. Thank you, Sir.
Ive noticed that, when reloading the cylinder, if i pull the cylinder pin forward and just smear some of the lube thats allready all over the gun (i grease the front of the loaded cylinders rather than using lubed patches) it keeps everything moving very nicely. I recently put 7 cylinders thru it in about 25 degree weather and it stayed operating smoothly and dissasembled afterward no problem.
I did your groove mod on my Remington clone a while back and it sure helped! Thanks for this info as well!
Glad I could help!
My old '58 Remmie 44 is an old Navy Arms kit gun (Pietta). Now, I got it used and abused in the late 1980s and the guy I got it from got it used as well. Mine has always had a small notch cut in the top of the cylinder pin jin the front part of the pin just at the point where the cylinder meets the barrel. That groove was in it when I got the gun and I don't think it's doing much for the lubrication of the cylinder pin. I've always packed that flat area on the bottom of the pin with grease as I was taught back in the day that was what it was for. I do think I'll try your grooves though and some of the ideas you've put out in other videos. I also shoot a Uberti cap and ball revolving carbine (Remmie) and will try them on it as well.
Blackie, thank-you again for a very detailed video on the 1858...jo'c
My pleasure!
Awesome, I was thinking about ordering a Pietta 1858 Rem. I think this video helped me decide to get one. Thank you for the informative video Sir.
Good practical stuff Blackie. Been shooting one for about 30 years but there's still stuff to learn. That's why I find them interesting I guess.
Blackie, you ol' " possum belly & hawg jowl eater" you!!! This video proves once again WHY you are my #1 go-to guy for the best C&B information! On all aspects of the C&B's, how did you acquire ALL your knowledge? Reading, experience, fellow shooters, "dumb luck"?! Probably an accumulation of ALL of them, plus many years of shooting them is my guess. My first introduction into black powder guns (& all guns!) was in about 1968 or earlier when I bought my Navy Arms .36 brass frame Colt (Confederate!) revolver. I still have & love this gun & might require it in my "cold dead hands" when I'm in my casket (unloaded of course!)!!! It's got a tighter action lockup than ANY S&W revolver I've ever seen anywhere! No cylinder bolt score marks either! No idea if a gunsmith had worked it over. I bought it because I greatly love the overall style of the Colts, especially the gorgeous curves of the grip frame & hammer & recoil shield. The barrel ain't bad either! My "love affair" with the Colts STILL STANDS (I'm 81 now)!!! And as always, "please don't squeeze da Shaman"!!!!!
Great advice to keep shooting longer!
Thanks again Black, great idea. I'm going to horror freight tomorrow and get get a new set of needle files. Hurricane Ida blew my others away. God bless brother.
Thanks Blackie the first time I did a lot of shooting with my Remington I’ll be honest I got the base pin stuck.
Thanks Blackie! You always have great information! Many Blessings and Keep Your Powder Muzzled! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
A yound lady by the name of Diane Huston point ed me to you video on cylinde pin hard to remove when you ipm changeing cylinders. Thanks for the infor will use it when I go out to the range. (Mississippi Gulf Coast, USA).
I did Blackies cylinder pin groove mod and it works GREAT highly recommended
Love the channel Blackie! I especially like the BP videos. I have a New Model Army, it has a full-size barrel though. I make a mix of Crisco & pure beeswax( not paraffin!) and coat the end of the chambers- I'm gonna try cutting grooves in the arbour. Thanks for the idea!
it seems to help mine
Some folks have successfully installed a Colt 45 Generation 3 bushing onto the end of the cylinder of the NMA, also relieving the frame slightly for room where the cylinder pin is. This supposedly makes the NMA resistant to fouling in the same way as the Starr and Rogers&Spencer revolvers that already have them.
in order to keep my remi 1858 up and running I use a generous dose of grease on top of the bullet in addition to grease base pin. as Mr. Blackie described, in case of closed frame BP revolvers fauling is forced back and starts to build up between barrel entry and front of cylinder in close proximity of base pin. if grase is applied on top of the bullet it's mixing with fouling with every shot and a grease&foul seal is build up at the barrel entry, preventing fouling to block cylinder from rotating.
My experience exactly.
My experience too, with lamb's tallow and beeswax mix. Smells nice and works fine. Wiping front of cylinder works great too. I wipe it and keep it greased and it works well.
very true..i used lube on top of chambers at the shooting matches many times and it works well..it is kinda messy tho..
@@BLACKIETHOMAS it is messy...
Use a small spoon to apply greese.
Have an 1858 .44 Sheriff I converted to cartridge. Also have a full size1858 .44 black powder pistol that is the most naturally-pointing handgun I've ever fired. Best real-world BP revolver tips anywhere, thanks Blackie!
they are really nice woods guns to be sure
Love the percussion revolver series
i am a 76 year old newdi to all of this, That was a great video. Thanks! Very informative.
Thank you for posting.
Boy that ageing came out great on the gun. Looks terrific.
thanks i know i got a weakness for making the new replicas look like old originals..lol
You can remove your cylinder rod - It's easier then you think, I used a short 3 inch wooden dowel to knock out my catch underneath the barrel. Just aim for the base and not the actual catch part! Make sure you use something like a little locktite in there when you knock it back in. I love your videos by the way!
thank you very much..glad you enjoy them
Thanks for the great tips Blackie. Hope I can get an 1858 Sheriff soon!
Good luck!
The 2022 Pietta 1858 8” barrel revolver, the cylinder pin has a stop, doesn’t pull out completely. It also has a flat side on the pin.
Thanks again Blackie mainly for the video an knowledge but also for not talking about co-vid, the end of world, political b.s., riots, food shortages, civil war, etc., and nosium. The world might be going to hell in hand basket but that's what great-grandparents said. As long as I can keep my powder dry and shoot straight and the sun shines an the polar ice doesn't melt to fast and bees don't go extinct...oh sorry, I went ranting. Thanks for the video. Your a true expert.
thank you safe journeys to you
Wish I had known why my experience with Remmies was so bad. I blamed it on Italian mass production assembly line shortcuts but I did use lots of Crisco on those cylinders, which only made things bad & messy. I may revisit those 1858's someday after some custom filing on the base pins, but I'll leave the Crisco in the kitchen & try some Bore Butter wads. Anybody ever try cardboard treated with Borax to fire proof homemade wads?
i played wit hit back i nthe day and thats the prob cut carboard does well but it can catch fire and be a firebug in a bad way..there is a reason they use wool felt it will not burn..i have used wax coated carboard like from cat food boxes or ceral boxes in my snake loads and had no problem with those
@blackiethomas got this thing hitting paper at 10 yrds on trees that are about 3 ft across. It shoots low and to the right. I have peer .457, 777powder, and cci 11 magnums. I have been working on different loads.started on 20grains and couldn't hit anything. 25grains and by luck I was able to see the tree behind and to the right was hit low. Did a few more with 25grains and just couldn't figure it out. I put 35 grains in it and hit the tree I was aiming at with all five. Went and got targets, took my son shooting. 35 grains 30 feet away, down six and right six. Backed off 5 grains with 2 cylinders and could even hit the tree. So I Did 35 grains again filed the front sight down a bit and rear sight left, got 4 inches down and 4 to the right with some low flyers. Gonna hit again with some more files. Because of this I have named mine violet blue or noname jane because she likes a hot load.
My question is how long will a new model army sheriff last pounding out lead like that, and what can I do to make it take it better?? And also, do you have any advise on the difference between compressed vs uncompressed for 777
The gas also cuts a groove right at the gap between the cylinder and the end of the barrel in time.
I've had some success with putting a bit of lithium grease on that flat part of the base pin. Don't use it anywhere else, but the cylinder itself will keep bp residue from getting into the grease.
Great tip! some high temp type used on brake / drum berrings would work well i think
Will give it a try myself
Blackie, Sir, I have been working on making paper cartridges(just the paper, no powder or ball, etc., so far). I got kinda carried away, and have made several hundred of them using the "Capandball" former". As a 'Thank you' for helping me to become a better outdoors man/person, I would like to send you some, if you would be willing. I would like to ask you not to sell them(I may try that myself someday), and perhaps you could test a few for me(I do not have a place to test them at this time). But other than that you can do anything you want to with them. Please advise at your leisure. Great video, Thumbs Up!! Hope you and yours have been able to avoid Covid.
Thanks Blackie, great video very informative!
Glad it was helpful!
bit of a design oversight with the sheriff model 5" being too short to remove the cylinder pin. I'm glad i got the 8" gun because those pins wear out the hot gas cuts into it over time. 2 cylinder loads is what I typically get before fouled. i admit i stuff as much powder as possible that doesn't help the fouling.
I know that I told you before but I used to keep a pickled egg bottle full of Kerosone for my brother so he could take his Uberti Remington 44 Army apart after a rainy Black Powder Only week end. Ever go to the Ozarks hunting or fishing bring a large poncho. Remingtons seem to work great on the range but not so much in the field conditions. I don' how Bill kept "Lucrecia" running.
Thanks Blacky!..great info as usual from you!!!
Very informative sir
What i did when i crowned the end of the barrel i also did the forcing cone and i filed a flat spot on the bottom of the pin keep it butterd up it
I did the trigger too it shoots beautifully
EXCELLENT video! Very helpful info 👍
First, love your videos. As for the grooving, sorry, I just can't make myself weaken a major part that way. HOWEVER, I'm extremely pleased to see this video where you use the flat of the cylinder rod as "lube storage". That's exactly what I've been doing all along. When I realized that the rings around the Colt arbors was for holding extra lube, I immediately decided to use the Remington flat for the same purpose in exactly the same way. It definitely works, and I was able to avoid giving myself PTSD from filing grooves. 😊
It’s interesting how PTSD is used so often now for so many things.
@@profile2047 - Yep! 🙃 But to be clear for those who missed it, that was sarcasm.
Good word Bro, I always use wonder wads an bore butter over the cylinder. Just a habit I got into 40 yrs ago for shooting round balls, mite adjust it in the future, depending on what you figure out with the K. O. bullets in .44 cal, thx for the vid .
my pleasure
I've been trying some of the Teflon lubes. The pure stuff is $$$ I used a ceramic release agent called Tryflon.
Worked very good but $$. A dry but slick product won't collect burnt powder is my thoughts.
Take a 6inch file and file the flat on the base pin just a little to put an edge on it. Don't deburr it. The sharper edge will scrape off more fouling when you turn the cylinder a few times on half cock.
If you find the base pin stuck, just dribble hot water over the front of the cylinder and frame area. It releases easily. I've seen hammer damaged base pins!
Thanks. Simple and practical! JWC
You are such a good man, sorry, but that’s all I have to say...
thank you for your kind words..safe journeys to you
I always liked the Remington unit did cum up way faster than my Colt clones and I end up selling them. I'm looking for an Uberti 1858 but no one has them right or much of anything else.
That’s handy information to know thank you.
Any time!
Been waiting for this one. Thank you.
Hope you enjoyed it!
I also considered taking a tap and die set to cut threads into the cylinder pin similar to the colts and use that for a grease groove. More coarse threads would have more longevity for the pin before it needed be replaced.
that could work just be sure not to cut too deep and weaken the rod
Would an old army benefit from a crown job?
On my 1873 Pietta shooting pyrodex it gets clogged up after like two cylinders. I recalled greasing the arbor on my navy so I greased it with mink oil and now it lasts much longer. The problem is the Pietta basepin sucks, it has grooves on the underside only to stop, so its hard to fit at times and if there's too much grease it slides right on through. However I have been able to shoot it a whole range session without it being too bad. I wish they made them more like the original colt pins with the screw on bushing.
I had thought it was friction against the forcing cone after talking to some SASS tuber, but then I checked and I could still see light in between it so it was definitely the base pin.
that is a great tip
Thank you
You sound like Strother Martin admiring Sundance's revolver in Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid, " mighty nice looking piece, can you hit anything?"
Great video thank you .
Looking forward to those cartridge conversation videos.
keeping cap guns going BOOM😉. 👍
I only shoot round ball being frugal but looking forward to more bullet reviews.
Was just having a discussion live to see or hear your input. Mild loads are nice in my 1851 Navy about 14grns is cost effective but ive shot plenty full as in FULL loads also. I wonder what was common amount both in civil war as well as out west on frontier for loading bp grains with roundball ???
I would think in the heat of battle, it would be as much powder as you could stuff in it with a bullet, lol.
@@williammccaslin8527 well ya can fill it and crush it no problem , accuracy may suffer depending but thats irrelevnt not the question.. The question is what was the typical load in those times , in modern times most load almost anemic target loads. The exception are those of us who hunt I believe load heavier balancing accuracy. Surely there must be some data from times past of say wild Bill or the manual of arms for cavalrymen in civil war era...
@@DJ-dt4kz it was a joke bro, nothing more. An you are correct, I think there mite be some loads in a book or on the net maybe.
@@williammccaslin8527 totally understood 👍 , just watched Outlaw Josey for 93rd time I reckon.
the paper ctg issued during the civil war was actually a mid level load..the ordinance board new from testing bores would foul quickly..and a max load produced less shots before the gun was so gumed up to be un serviceable and had to be cleaned..so loas of around 18 gr for the 36 and 30 for the 44 was common..this did 2 things limited waste of powder and kept the gun shooting longer..it was not as powerful as it could be nor did it have the range it could have but it served well in the close order battle plans of the day
Oh man I need to get me a Remington again
EVERY COLLECTION NEEDS ONE
@@BLACKIETHOMAS you're correct!
Mine started with one. I've since acquired a bunch of Colts but I miss how much more that Remmy was just built to take a beating.
Thanks for making this video
That’s some good advise!
Can't find percussion caps anywhere.
Are they not being probuced?
QUESTION .Any way you can do a tutorial on making our own lubricated wads?I love my .36 Remington new model NAVY cast my own .375 R.E.A.L. bullets from a Lee mold,but it doesn't cut lead like a ball and I don't feel to safe without a wonder wad sealing that chamber.Thank You in advance and God Bless!!
i just got a set of punches to do just that stay tuned
Awesome video! I don't have any percussion revolvers... at least not yet. (Lol) But they are just as cool as cartridge revolvers, and maybe even more so, because of their history. When I see the guns of the yesteryear, I'm like the kid in the cartoon, that always looks out the window in school and daydreams. Ralph I believe his name is. I think about who used it, and what they used it for. That's when men were men. Sorry there I go daydreaming. Blackie you got me in suspenders now, I can't wait for you cartridge conversion video. I not only have the 1860 type 11 richards conversions, I also have a Cimarron 1862 pocket police, which I cut the barrel back to 3", it comes with a 6" barrel. I made a shoulder holster for it, for when I shoot the pocket pistol event in cowboy action. Can't wait for your video. Are you ready yet? KIDDING! Again great video.
glad to hear it a richard mason 1860 is on the way to me now..as soon as i get a chance to break down and tune it i will post video of that as well
@@BLACKIETHOMAS Awesome I can't wait!!!!!
P.S. Just a suggestion. How bout a unboxing and first impression of your 1860?
I didn't realize it was a problem, I shoot with no lube, 25-30 grains pyrodex P under a round ball and the base pin got stuck in place before it started dragging on my cylinder
it varies from gun to gun i have had a few that would shoot fine thru a full match and never bind and i have had 2 that would so foul after 2 cyl that you had to hand turn the cyl when you cocked it
on the remington, is there room between the frame and cylinder to fit a small rubber o-ring? they are cheap, and even if you needed a new one every time you clean the gun, it might keep it running longer.
I wonder if they struggled with this in the past. Greets from Amsterdam /holland
I just picked up a 1858, my first gun, im so excited cant wait to fire it
Very helpful information!!! Good to know.
I must ask. You remember a brand of lubricant by Dixie Gun works called Blue and the Gray?
I used as patch lube but was too thick so it served as chamber grease. Worked good but never bought it again and used CVA lube in a convenient tube. It was not as good.
Anything you suggest for (brand ) lube?
Summer of 2021 and I just saw a short video on the new Pietta Ace 1858 "bulldog". Any chance you will get to play with one? It looks really sweet and has a clever basepin release that looks like it would make for very quick cylinder swaps.
I will remember this trick
BLACKIE you know your stuff dude 😎
I get all the problems you pointed out, on the 1858 so I will definitely be trying this, just one more thing after shooting my cylinder keeps locking up, as you try to put it in the half cock position the cylinder lock will not stay down,I have to continually cock it and eventually I can get the cylinder to spin freely, anything you can help with?
Was the Sheriffs model just a regular 1858 Remington that was aftermarket modified?
Hey Blackie, ive "done up" a revolver from watching your antiquing videos, do u have a site which viewers can submit pictures on? A friend of mine did a carving on the wooden grip thats just too cool to keep to myself.
i am on facbook as blackie thomas you can send them there if ya like
Just an update: I loaded my 1858 over 2 years ago, lamb tallow and bees wax mix, with a dab of clear nail polish around the caps. Nooooo problems!!!!!
Pietta or Urburti ? I'm going to get a Sheriff model but not sure which h one? Could someone help me, thanks
can't wait for chrono testing between 5,5" 1858 and 8" 1860 !
now that it has cooled off i will be able to do that soon
Looking for suggestions for a good "possibles" bag.
I went to value world, like a salvation army, and bought a plain purse that seemed the right size. I extended the shoulder strap with a piece of leather by cutting the purse strap in the middle and made a nice wide shoulder piece and then attatched the cut ends of the strap to it. Next i made a leather flap, tooled an eagle onto it and attatched it to the purse. I could have made the whole thing i guess but it saved some time. Belts are also usually cheap there too. Goes nicely with my blunderbuss, holds shot, wool, caps, rod end tools, knife, matches, plus ball starter and ball. The purse was $2 and the leather was left over from other projects. i did buy some Chicago screws $7 from tractor supply to attach the leather. But that is in case you have to make a quick feild repair the screws and leather can always be repurposed to repair a bridle or boot or tent, etc. I figured that increased my possibles.
for a cheap work around dixiegunworks sells a plain canvas haversack like 20 bucks that can be a good starting point till you find the one you really want
When mine starts to bind I just take the cylinder out and spray it down with oil and its all good.
Hi
Like a revolver won't fire because the cap won't fire. I have wait. Because it can shoot ??
Then I can keep shooting and nothing will happen ??
Regards
Artur
Poland
Hey BLACKIE, you ol’ “disenfranchised bellywamper” you! Yes, a “term of endearment”!! I loves ya & hope you’re blessed to lots of safety & good health! You are STILL my “GO TO GUY” for C&B information. On the cylinder pin, instead of just a “flat spot” for a “grease reservoir”, why didn’t Remington simply make a slightly rebated or smaller diameter grease reservoir on the circumfrance of the pin, therefore holding more lube? Surely that would not diminish the strength of the pin. Of course imitating Colt’s lube rings as on their arbor would have been the best grease or lube reservoir! Sure would be nice to know what kind of work you do. Seems like most ALL of the gun reviewers prefer to keep their “vocation” a secret! I’d guess you are NOT a “hash slinger” at the local McDonalds!!! One thing I’ve never seen any gun reviewer do on their revolvers is “range check” the cylinder/barrel alignment! Bet that would open up a bag of surprises on some revolvers! “Gesundheit”!
A question about Remington base pins. Mine is about 25 years old and the base pin has a flash cut in it (just under where the cylinder meets the barrel) from the many rounds I have put through it over the years. Will this continue until it ruins the pin or has it probably gone as far as it can already?
you are correct..i would contact dixie gun works tell them its a pietta or a uberti and they will get you the correct pin..its a easy swap and like you said over the long time its a part that will wear out over time
@@BLACKIETHOMAS Thanks Blackie.
@@BLACKIETHOMAS Thanks! I live about a 30 minute's drive from Dixie and have been needing to make a trip up that way for bp shotgun stuff anyway.
If this guy doesn't have false teeth, i owe someone 75 bucks.
How do you remove the pin to replace?
Can you remove the barrel on the new army
"one of my subscribers and I have been talking back and forth about lubrication"
Aight Blackie. Shoot
I say, is a remington, just pop cylinder our touch a finger dobble of bore butter on pin and move on
I just got Uberti Remington 44 cal !
awesome hope you enjoy it
@@BLACKIETHOMAS I do, didn't get caps yet. But it looks great.
I watch all of your black powder videos. I know of no one more knowledgeable than you.
thank you more of those on the way
Mmmm My Colts dont have that problem lol
First!
CONGRATS TO YOU
Easiest way to prevent fouling is to use smokeless powder!
ah yes but where is the challenge in that? lol
Not in a Black Powder gun friend.
The pressures and burn rates in modern smokless powders are far higher than black powder ot their substitutes.
Your new shooter nickname is "eyes wide open" ! Lol