3D Scan Design and Print Series Part 3 | Design Your Own Gearbox Cover |
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 พ.ค. 2024
- In this video we are on part 3 of a new series looking at the entire process of scanning to part design using a Revopoint Mini2 3D scanner.
We are going to walk through the processing of designing a new part using the scanned mesh body as a reference.
In Part 3 we will learn to import the scanned mesh into Fusion, place it (as best we can) and begin pulling references using mesh section sketches. Mesh based design is a little different than Reverse Engineering since we are not concerned with an exact copy this gives us freedom to build the interface or mounting flange then create our own unique part. We will be using a Creality K1 Max to 3d print the design and test it out on the RC Truck.
If you want to follow along here is the Fusion file with the scan inserted but not positioned: a360.co/3vTY1X0
Remember that we are a Revopoint affiliate and we have worked out a deal to provide some discounts when purchasing a MIRACO, INSPIRE, or MINI2. Below you will find affiliate links with the discount codes applied for each of those scanners as well as the codes themselves if you would like to manually enter them. The discount will vary at Revopoint's discretion based on their current promotions.
Miraco shrsl.com/4hjcs
LEADREVO7OFF
Inspire shrsl.com/4hjcq
LEADREVO17OFF
Mini2 shrsl.com/4hjco
LEADREVO100
If you thought this series was helpful please let us know in the comments. We want to bring you more scanning content with other scanners, but it takes a lot of time to film and develop these episodes. If you want to see something specific let us know and we can add it to the list!
Thanks
00:00 Introduction
01:12 Importing a Mesh into Fusion
03:31 Position a Scan in Fusion
07:30 Creating a Mesh Section Sketch
08:28 Working with Mesh Section Sketches to Create a Layout
16:47 Direct Edit Mesh Mode to Create Planes
21:58 Beginning to Model the Base Shape
30:18 Planning and Creating the first Surface for the Design
34:45 Lofting between the Base and Upper Surface
41:03 Initial Shape Review and Planning
42:02 Creating the Main Gear Housing Shape
44:26 Figuring Out How To Combine Overlapping Surfaces
47:22 Testing the Shell Tool
50:38 Adding the Upper Portion of the Shape and Shelling
55:20 Adding the Lower Lip to the Housing
01:19:19 Repairing the Timeline
01:22:52 Setting up the 3D Print
01:28:50 Conclusion and Thoughts - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thank you for your wonderful sharing!🥰
My pleasure 😊
Thanks for another great video. What i was really expecting to see was using the scan to design another part based on it. For example using the scanned body for a base to design a new cap/plug or perhaps design a gasket to seal the part better. As others have said you would possibly have been quicker doing this from scratch but for more complex parts i can definitely see this being a way to perhaps slightly improve the original design.
There will be more to come! The next scan series currently on the list is scanning the body and designing a new one. The plan is to compare the mini2 vs the miraco for something this size(might even use the Inspire as well).
For things like a new plug for the cover that would certainly be possible with a TPU material but unless it screwed on a PLA just wouldn't work. it might snap in but you would probably break it trying to remove it :)
If it were just a gasket, the trace on paper and 2d scan into the computer is likely much easier/quicker for that.
Awesome!! Thank you. Before you started modeling, I saw it as the base extrusion, two revolves, and a loft (key hole shaped part), then a bunch of clunky sketches, extrusions, and fillets linking it all together. 🤣 Then again, I know nothing about forms!!
This shape i didn't plan going in, just kind of explored. After a model is made there are most certainly many ways to do it again, often times much more easily :)
I personally find when exploring shapes that surface tools give me freedom to start designing what i call "primary surfaces". those define the shape, then the secondary stuff is putting them together and less critical.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign I do really appreciate all of your Forms stuff. It's just such a different way to think, but it's really a good exercise. Thx.
Loved it, thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Another great series thanks but did it fit the rc truck 😅
Fit Great! We had a bunch of b roll footage of it but im not a videographer and my editor wasn't happy with the focus :) thinking about doing a "short" and showing it. still on the truck instead of the oem part.
thanks for the video!
Is there anyway you could kindly share the original mesh? for practice?
thanks!
Sure, but the file sizes are large. Send me an email support@caducator.com and ill get you the point cloud data.
Is there a obvious improvement from mini to mini 2? Is it worth to upgrade if I already own the mini?
Nope I would say not. We did a mini2 review video and talked about the improvements. The actual quality of the scan is the same but you can scan a slightly larger area. It has flash leds helping with color capture and with setting the exposure. It has wifi6, so if you are scanning over wifi to a phone that will bump up the speed. and it captures at 16fps in its rapid mode vs about 10 on the old mini.
In my mind not enough to justify. IF you were to add a scanner I would go to the Miraco as it has the near and far mode OR the Range if you need to scan larger objects.
is it really worth the hassle to scan an object? it seems it would be less steps and more accurate to take a picture of the base, or trace outline with a pen, then xfer into fusion as a Cnvas. Measure with caliper and go from there? love the channel btw.
That is always the decision. If you have a part that is hard to measure or more organic OR you need to compare a scan of the completed part to a CAD model of the design then 100% scan. This part could have gone either way honestly. Having the height and shape references were helpful to use as a "keep out" zone for the new design. It could have been done either way but easier with the scan in this case (in my opinion)
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign what 3d scanner do you think is the best to buy?
@@kdissedthere is no best scanner. I use Revopoint mini for small stuff, Einscan SP medium stuff like PS5 controller, Einscan Einstar big stuff more than double the size of a PS5 controller. Car interiors, Transport boxes.
@@kdissed Depends on what you want to do with it and what your budget is. In the world of scanners there is a low entry point and generally the price goes up while the quality goes up incrementally. I really enjoy the Miraco scanner. Has the ability to do near and far mode so you get 2 scanners in 1 unit. Plus the ability to have it all in a self contained unit rather than having to plug it into a laptop. It is on the higher end of the hobby/diy scanner segment. There are some new players coming into the market around the $2000 mark that I am keeping an eye on.
IR Structured Light is most common for hobby/diy scanners. Miraco for example as well as others like Creality scan ferret and lizard.
Blue light like the Mini2 generally gets you a little bump in performance and scanners up into the $20k+ range still use blue structured light.
Laser is generally the highest price and offers the biggest performance jump. There are some coming on the scene but right now i think the Shining3d Freescan at $17k is the lowest professional grade solution in that segment.
For my money the Miraco still takes the cake.
1:01:48 the longer you design a part the messier it becomes. There is no way around it 😂
No Joke. lol