Hey there! Yes, we highly recommend sanding between layers of epoxy if you will be pouring over a previous layer that has completely cured! If it is still tacky (typically 2-4 hours after pouring with Superclear Table Top Epoxy) then you can skip the sanding and just go ahead and pour!
If you've got bubbles from the previous layer, I would let that completely cure. Then sand down those areas, wipe it down with Isopropyl Alcohol 90% or higher, and finally pour over it and let the new epoxy layer fill in those holes that sanding the bubbles left. Hope that helps! @@thiagomartins1127
I am working on a bottle cap table. I built up a frame around the bottle cap area using 1/2" aspen (actual thickness about 0.43"). I sealed the gaps between the table top and the frame using Aleene's clear gel glue. The table was made out of parawood (rubber wood). Last night, I tried to apply my seal coat and had a lot of problems. I mixed up eight ounces of epoxy (four ounces of each part) and mixed it slowly as you recommend. I was using the stir stick spatula that you sell. I found that it was hard to mix because it was too wide for a quart mixing cup. I tried brushing the seal coat on using foam brushes and really couldn't get a uniform thickness. I tried popping bubbles using a torch, but without a lot of success. I found that whenever I tried to hold the torch at a low angle to get to the bubbles, the torch went out. I do have a heat gun and I'll use it next time instead of the torch. The next thing I tried to smooth the surface was to spray 91% isopropyl alcohol on it. That did some good, but I probably waited too long to try it and the surface got a little mottled. There was some epoxy left in the cup when I was done and I let it cure. I popped it out this morning and noticed that it was loaded with microbubbles. I was mixing very slowly, but I think the spatula just moved the epoxy too violently even at slow speed. My plan going forward is to let the seal coat dry completely, sand it with 220 grit sandpaper, clean it with 91% isopropyl alcohol, glue the bottle caps down with Aleene's clear gel glue, let the glue dry for 24 hours, and then do two flood coats 3-4 hours apart. Any thoughts?
This is an awesome video. Highly informative - and very fun. I also like how you explain each step and why they are important. Thanks... I will definitley watch more! Hugh
Excellent!! Music is great maybe a bit loud but not bad. Thoroughly explained each step, what to do in a case by case situation and how to remedy any imperfections. Great job. Keep whipping real good. 😅 Bloopers help become more personable with your viewers and clients.
Hello there, I have recently decided to build my 1st river table (7ft x 42"). Upon breaking out of the mold, I went ahead and planed the entire top with a router. It took all day, leaving no time to do the bottom. Went into the shop next day, and of course, the table warped. Ran it to a shop 2hrs down the road with a CNC planer. Got it back, and apparently they routered the bottom completely flat and level, but did not completely plane the top. They also slightly got into a few of the larger stones embedded in the pour. After weighting the table down for a week, 98% of the warp is gone. In lieu of re-routering the entire top, I decided to order 2 gallons of your tabletop epoxy. Both sides of the table are sanded down to 220, the table is cut to size/squared, the edges routered and the Bidwell C Channel temporarily installed. I will do a seal coat on the top, and one "flood coat" that will be 1/8" deep at the center, and more of a seal coat at the ends. My #1 question is this - I'll be able to seal coat the top/sides, then pour the flood coat all in one day, but I definitely won't have time to do anything with the bottom on Day 1. Since the top/sides will be sealed up tight with epoxy, what would you recommend I do with the bottom of the table to seal it and avoid any additional warping? I assume just polishing 2 or 3 oil coats won't be enough? The table is currently 1.5" think, made from white ash milled on our property 6yrs ago.
Can you guys do a video on your "Super-UV Absorber/HALS" additive for crystal clear long-lasting affect, please? Thank you. Some of us want 'CLEAR,' clear, clear pour instead of using colorants. Thanks!!!!
@@Str8smokin305 i use a drill mixer. keep the mixer away from the top pf the bucket and it will not introduce air into it. stir it with a stick a few times and continue mixing from the bottom
@@bigeasy2187 Thank u. I truly appreciate your expert advice. I'm actually going to do my first epoxy project tomorrow. Also, if u don't mind me asking. I'm going to do a 27sq ft counter top. I purchased the 2 gallon superclear table epoxy. Should I mix the whole 2 gallons?
@@Str8smokin305 i would not do it if its your first time. it can kick out and get very very hot if you are not fast enough with it. it will melt the 5 gallon bucket
Practice area. Vinyl counter. Cleaned, sanded, cleaned, epoxy primer. Sanded again lightly, cleaned. Spray painted with stone look spray paint. Sanded lightly and cleaned again. Measured 4oz harder and then 4 oz resin. Mixed with tongue deprsser, poured some and rolled, Chop brush, torch bubbles. Let dry. Looked beautiful! Two weeks later it peeled off in giant sections. Spray paint and primer are fine. Only place epoxy didnt peel was the flat sides which were done the same way. Maybe less epoxy...? Temp was perfect and light humidity. I dont know but this is very expensive to for it to just peel off. Im very upset. I watch a ton of videos and followed directions 😒
This is the only resin I use, seriously amazing stuff! I was wondering when using the table top resin is it viable for casting as long its done in layers? I know this particular resin is thick and heats up quick so I wondering if this is possible. Thank you!
I have a small wood bathroom sink with a 12 inch wood front 90° angle. I gave the sink a skim coat. How do I keep the front from running down when I do a flood coat?
Great question! Are you referring to the drips that can occur when you flood the surface or something else? Let me know, I'd love to help! Or give us a call at 888-849-0588. We're available M-F 8am-430pm EST.
Great information, I am brand new to epoxy and tried my first pour on a 12” round cribbage board made out of really old barn wood, customer wanted the natural rustic look of the wood. When I poured it the wood went from gray and light brown colors to dark and almost all the gray is gone, is there something I can do to preserve the colors before applying the epoxy?
Hey Joe, great question! I don't think there is a great way to prevent the wood from darkening. It would have the same effect if you sprayed the wood surface down with water. It is essentially absorbing a bit of the resin and causing that finished look. The best way to preserve as close to the original color as possible would be - a clear epoxy or a clear urethane. Which you have already attempted.. Let me know if you have any other questions though! 👍
Hey Eddie, we always recommend using our Superclear Table Top Epoxy for any sealing that may need to be done. You can brush on a thin layer, wait around 2-4 hours until it has tacked up, and then go ahead and pour your flood coat (or apply another seal coat if necessary). Let me know if you have any other questions! 👍
I’m building and epoxy river table. I poured the first pour, let it get “rubbery” and then poured the 2nd pour. While I was popping bubbles and spreading the epoxy, I put my finger in and in some spots it felt like the 1st pour was “wrinkling or buckling”. Can you tell me if I have a minor or major problem developing?
Shellac can react with the epoxy and create a hazy look, which might be fine if you are adding in an opaque pour. However, if it is a clear pour, you will see some hazing.
I have had nothing but problems using this for a countertop project. Buyer beware: it is an excellent product overall, but its low viscosity and high reactivity may create issues for larger, more artistic projects. Would I buy it again? Absolutely! Its gorgeous after a steep learning curve and several weeks of cleaning up failed attempts because of self leveling issues, uneven edge coverage, and a nightmare flash cure incident. Mostly user error, frankly, and it was done before this video was published, but darn, what a headache. I see superclear now has 'countertop' epoxy. If you are pouring a counter, don't use 'tabletop'. Great product, but NOT for this purpose.
That’s what I’d like to know. The temp was around 84-85 not sure if that had anything to do with it. So now there are dimples all over where it didn’t level
Hi @lisakefferruiz - So sorry about the music volume! We have made adjustments to our new content, and are doing our best to listen to feedback. The music should no longer be an issue moving forward.
So.. probably? A glass container would be extremely smooth and the epoxy probably wouldn't stick to it. BUT - unless you plan to clean them thoroughly, those would be some very expensive mixing cups to throw out 😅
![🎤 จับฉลากร้องเพลง x P’ #XXSIVK [EP.1] (2/2) เพื่อนจับได้คำไหน..ต้องร้องคำนั้น เริ่ม! 💓🎶 #MXFRUIT](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1bJvMJXmeS4/mqdefault.jpg)
Don’t you have to sand between coats ? Nice video
Hey there! Yes, we highly recommend sanding between layers of epoxy if you will be pouring over a previous layer that has completely cured! If it is still tacky (typically 2-4 hours after pouring with Superclear Table Top Epoxy) then you can skip the sanding and just go ahead and pour!
Got it .. what about if you have bubbles? Thanks for the reply
If you've got bubbles from the previous layer, I would let that completely cure. Then sand down those areas, wipe it down with Isopropyl Alcohol 90% or higher, and finally pour over it and let the new epoxy layer fill in those holes that sanding the bubbles left. Hope that helps! @@thiagomartins1127
I am working on a bottle cap table. I built up a frame around the bottle cap area using 1/2" aspen (actual thickness about 0.43"). I sealed the gaps between the table top and the frame using Aleene's clear gel glue. The table was made out of parawood (rubber wood). Last night, I tried to apply my seal coat and had a lot of problems. I mixed up eight ounces of epoxy (four ounces of each part) and mixed it slowly as you recommend. I was using the stir stick spatula that you sell. I found that it was hard to mix because it was too wide for a quart mixing cup. I tried brushing the seal coat on using foam brushes and really couldn't get a uniform thickness. I tried popping bubbles using a torch, but without a lot of success. I found that whenever I tried to hold the torch at a low angle to get to the bubbles, the torch went out. I do have a heat gun and I'll use it next time instead of the torch. The next thing I tried to smooth the surface was to spray 91% isopropyl alcohol on it. That did some good, but I probably waited too long to try it and the surface got a little mottled. There was some epoxy left in the cup when I was done and I let it cure. I popped it out this morning and noticed that it was loaded with microbubbles. I was mixing very slowly, but I think the spatula just moved the epoxy too violently even at slow speed.
My plan going forward is to let the seal coat dry completely, sand it with 220 grit sandpaper, clean it with 91% isopropyl alcohol, glue the bottle caps down with Aleene's clear gel glue, let the glue dry for 24 hours, and then do two flood coats 3-4 hours apart.
Any thoughts?
This is an awesome video. Highly informative - and very fun. I also like how you explain each step and why they are important. Thanks... I will definitley watch more! Hugh
Thanks Hugh - happy to help! Have a great one 👍
Excellent!! Music is great maybe a bit loud but not bad. Thoroughly explained each step, what to do in a case by case situation and how to remedy any imperfections. Great job.
Keep whipping real good. 😅 Bloopers help become more personable with your viewers and clients.
Hello there,
I have recently decided to build my 1st river table (7ft x 42"). Upon breaking out of the mold, I went ahead and planed the entire top with a router. It took all day, leaving no time to do the bottom. Went into the shop next day, and of course, the table warped.
Ran it to a shop 2hrs down the road with a CNC planer. Got it back, and apparently they routered the bottom completely flat and level, but did not completely plane the top. They also slightly got into a few of the larger stones embedded in the pour. After weighting the table down for a week, 98% of the warp is gone. In lieu of re-routering the entire top, I decided to order 2 gallons of your tabletop epoxy. Both sides of the table are sanded down to 220, the table is cut to size/squared, the edges routered and the Bidwell C Channel temporarily installed.
I will do a seal coat on the top, and one "flood coat" that will be 1/8" deep at the center, and more of a seal coat at the ends. My #1 question is this - I'll be able to seal coat the top/sides, then pour the flood coat all in one day, but I definitely won't have time to do anything with the bottom on Day 1. Since the top/sides will be sealed up tight with epoxy, what would you recommend I do with the bottom of the table to seal it and avoid any additional warping? I assume just polishing 2 or 3 oil coats won't be enough? The table is currently 1.5" think, made from white ash milled on our property 6yrs ago.
Can you guys do a video on your "Super-UV Absorber/HALS" additive for crystal clear long-lasting affect, please? Thank you. Some of us want 'CLEAR,' clear, clear pour instead of using colorants. Thanks!!!!
i have been exclusively using your epoxy for the last 4 years. i have mixed 2 gallons of table top up at a time to do large projects.
That's good to know. Just wondering, when u mixed the epoxy do u normally mix it by hand or do u use a paint mixer on a drill?
@@Str8smokin305 i use a drill mixer. keep the mixer away from the top pf the bucket and it will not introduce air into it. stir it with a stick a few times and continue mixing from the bottom
@@bigeasy2187 Thank u. I truly appreciate your expert advice. I'm actually going to do my first epoxy project tomorrow. Also, if u don't mind me asking. I'm going to do a 27sq ft counter top. I purchased the 2 gallon superclear table epoxy. Should I mix the whole 2 gallons?
@@Str8smokin305 i would not do it if its your first time. it can kick out and get very very hot if you are not fast enough with it. it will melt the 5 gallon bucket
I love this epoxy I use this for shallow coastersy turned out amazing
Excellent!!!! Answered a lot of my questions. Thanks
Awsome video I was looking for bigger things to do with resin besides small things,ty😊
Practice area. Vinyl counter. Cleaned, sanded, cleaned, epoxy primer. Sanded again lightly, cleaned. Spray painted with stone look spray paint. Sanded lightly and cleaned again. Measured 4oz harder and then 4 oz resin. Mixed with tongue deprsser, poured some and rolled, Chop brush, torch bubbles. Let dry. Looked beautiful! Two weeks later it peeled off in giant sections. Spray paint and primer are fine. Only place epoxy didnt peel was the flat sides which were done the same way. Maybe less epoxy...? Temp was perfect and light humidity. I dont know but this is very expensive to for it to just peel off. Im very upset. I watch a ton of videos and followed directions 😒
This is the only resin I use, seriously amazing stuff! I was wondering when using the table top resin is it viable for casting as long its done in layers? I know this particular resin is thick and heats up quick so I wondering if this is possible. Thank you!
Can I use this on concrete, already bought it
@@jeffreycepeda9005 should be able too, may create a lot of bubbles if the concrete is porous though
@jasminreneeart1288 glad you are loving it 🙌 YES, as long as you step pour in layers of no more than .25" at a time.
@jeffreycepeda9005 what she said 👍
Great video
I have a small wood bathroom sink with a 12 inch wood front 90° angle. I gave the sink a skim coat. How do I keep the front from running down when I do a flood coat?
Great question! Are you referring to the drips that can occur when you flood the surface or something else?
Let me know, I'd love to help! Or give us a call at 888-849-0588. We're available M-F 8am-430pm EST.
Great information, I am brand new to epoxy and tried my first pour on a 12” round cribbage board made out of really old barn wood, customer wanted the natural rustic look of the wood. When I poured it the wood went from gray and light brown colors to dark and almost all the gray is gone, is there something I can do to preserve the colors before applying the epoxy?
Hey Joe, great question! I don't think there is a great way to prevent the wood from darkening. It would have the same effect if you sprayed the wood surface down with water. It is essentially absorbing a bit of the resin and causing that finished look.
The best way to preserve as close to the original color as possible would be - a clear epoxy or a clear urethane. Which you have already attempted..
Let me know if you have any other questions though! 👍
You mentioned a sealer on the bottom. What did you use as a sealer? Would you suggest a sealer on the top before epoxy?
Hey Eddie, we always recommend using our Superclear Table Top Epoxy for any sealing that may need to be done. You can brush on a thin layer, wait around 2-4 hours until it has tacked up, and then go ahead and pour your flood coat (or apply another seal coat if necessary).
Let me know if you have any other questions! 👍
Do you have any resin to work on glasses and accessory projects?
I’m building and epoxy river table. I poured the first pour, let it get “rubbery” and then poured the 2nd pour. While I was popping bubbles and spreading the epoxy, I put my finger in and in some spots it felt like the 1st pour was “wrinkling or buckling”.
Can you tell me if I have a minor or major problem developing?
Hand sand or can you use sander? Also I will be doing butcher block countertops
Hey Angie, you can really take either route. An orbital tends to do most of the work for you, but hand sanding works just fine 👍
Hi. Can I use superclear epoxy on top of a tung oiled table? Thx.
I agree the music is very distracting, turn it down or off
What about using shellac to seal the wood before the first application?
Shellac can react with the epoxy and create a hazy look, which might be fine if you are adding in an opaque pour. However, if it is a clear pour, you will see some hazing.
I have had nothing but problems using this for a countertop project. Buyer beware: it is an excellent product overall, but its low viscosity and high reactivity may create issues for larger, more artistic projects.
Would I buy it again? Absolutely! Its gorgeous after a steep learning curve and several weeks of cleaning up failed attempts because of self leveling issues, uneven edge coverage, and a nightmare flash cure incident. Mostly user error, frankly, and it was done before this video was published, but darn, what a headache.
I see superclear now has 'countertop' epoxy. If you are pouring a counter, don't use 'tabletop'. Great product, but NOT for this purpose.
Appreciate the transparent feedback - thanks for sticking with us 🫡
how long can the leveling take, my top still hasn't leveled all the way after an hour
It never did level out😢why?
That’s what I’d like to know. The temp was around 84-85 not sure if that had anything to do with it. So now there are dimples all over where it didn’t level
👍👍👍
🫡🫡🫡
Video is very informative, but the background music is way too loud. I have sensory issues, and it was torture to watch this till the end.
Hi @lisakefferruiz - So sorry about the music volume! We have made adjustments to our new content, and are doing our best to listen to feedback. The music should no longer be an issue moving forward.
How many ounces per square foot
Can I use glass containers instead of plastic?
So.. probably? A glass container would be extremely smooth and the epoxy probably wouldn't stick to it.
BUT - unless you plan to clean them thoroughly, those would be some very expensive mixing cups to throw out 😅
Great video but the music has to go. It’s distracting.
Heard - we will be fixing that moving forward! 😅
Hard to hear him clearly over the music.
OMG that music, I can't even finish listening to you. Very distracting to all your good info
Get rid of the stupid music
Don’t need the crazy music playing