A tip if your SWRS are 1.1 to 1.5 and still getting the antenna warning try turning down your mic gain it will stop the warning it only goes red when over modulation takes place
I never did get mine straight, I've been using it as is. A friend of mine said the ltd is constant like this and I should get a true SWR meter to check it. I totaled my truck a few months back and now use it as a base station. I haven't had any problems with it since.
It does NOT need fixing. The antenna warning light should have been labeled "Modulation Lamp" because that is exactly what most of them do. I even ran my Cobra into a Dummy Load where the SWR is flat zero and the red LED comes on when modulating with the mic gain all the way up. I think Cobra dropped the ball when they called it a Warning Light.
My antenna placement and coax routing was my ultimate problem, with the whip setting at the corner my ground plane was off. My coax was run down through the trans tunnel and run along side the main harness to it. When the truck was running the elec noise from harness was interfering with the signal.
I watched another video (I had same problem w 29 BT) that may solve your problem. It fixed mine, problem may be radio can't draw enough power at the fusebox. This can be tested by simply hooking a jumper cable to + terminal on battery and other end to hot wire on your CB. Will try and find video so you can check it out
I'm also having an antenna light problem in my rig is fine no antenna light I swap to my pickup just bought a brand new antenna magnet for some reason it's a solid red
In know this is old but I just got back into CB's. The problem is an age old one with the way you mounted the antenna. It's seeing 2 ground plains. One from the cab and one from the bed. The only way to get the SWR's down is to buy a really long antenna, like a 7 Ft. Fire stick or similar. The other option is to mount the antenna all the way in back of the bed or roof mount it. I know it won't look keen but that is what needs to be done.
Been reading some Forums that are saying not to put much stock in that red light warning. I know it bugs you but if your SWR reading looks good and you are talking and receiving. To just not to worry about the light. Sometimes red light calibration from the factory is more than likely off a little.
if its in a cig lighter it needs too be run direct too your battery . also maybe how your cb coax is ran stay away from the transmission and fuse box had the issue on my 98 blazer
Hey there giantj6ft7 what gets me is how a lot of cb people on TH-cam always the cb radio system seems to work better than I can get my own CB radio set up going so far. Anyway, maybe I got keep trying. There are a lot of gaps when I talk on CB and install a CB radio system in a vehicle.🙂👍👍
Switched hot as in ignition switched. The only difference between the fuse box and the battery -truck off no difference 12.3/truck running batt. 13.2-fuse box 12.7 volts.
looping the coax will just create a choke and maybe kill off a tiny bit of power, sure it might bring up the swr but not toa point where yo would notice
This is a honest question and i can help if you answer it. Are you still running your radio lile this? I ask because i have a 04 f 150 and had the same issue i bought a magnet mount for 30 bucks and im getting out clear as some of my modded trucker friends. If i need to make a video for you i can just let me know.
you ever figure out your problem? Just wondering if you did cause i am having the same problem. Somewhere i read you can't have the antenna wire coiled like you do in the video. My coax is grounded properly. Checked it with an ohm meter. my receiver is bolted to the roof and the coax cable is ran to the rear of the vehicle along the headliner. the antennas are bolted to the side of my vehicle and the tops stick above the roof of the vehicle. The antenna is 2 foot in lenght with a spring perch.
i've been having this same problem myself with the 29LTD CLassic i put in my 4x4, on the trail the antenna light comes on, and the radio wont transmit further than from me to the other vehicle directly infront of me in the convoy, in town, i can hear everyone, but cant get out, relocated power wire, relocated ground, installed spring to 102" whip, got the antenna light to go out, but now the radio wont transmit, checked voltages, key off radio on, 12.5 volts at radio, key on engine running, 14.4, and its wired to the fusebox, and grounded to chassis ground under dash *confused*
And never run your radio directly to your battery. You run it to the accessory fuse in the fuse panel. And run the black to the door panel there by the hinge. It comes with a manual for a reason.
Well that was informative, try turning your v6 knob inside cb clockwise until light goes off. Do this with bottom off and ant disconnected, power on of coarse. Key mic and turn screw til red light goes off
no need for a switch in the middle straight too the battery is what you need.it will not draw on the battery or drain it while off.go through the fire wall with some rtv sealant around the wire too keep it from chaffing.
Looks to me that you and 10 is too close to the cab move the antenna away from the cab put the antenna on the roof of the vehicle. Are you find at work better?
Its the mount you have. The liner in between the mount and your bed is causing interference with your reciever. I had the same problem with my truck and got a magnet mount and no problems.
I have a K30 magnet mount antenna and the same radio. and I have the same issue. Except I can barley receive and cant transmit at all. no one can hear me. ?????
The antenna itself doesn't need to be grounded. The mount end should already be grounded if it's attached to any metal part of your vehicle. This will help the antenna perform the way it should. Magnetic mount antennas use a capacitive ground through it's base to the roof of the vehicle.The antenna will need to be adjusted till you get at least a 1 but no more than a 2 SWR on both CH 1 and 40. Depending what antenna you have. You'll need to do some cutting to the antenna itself. 1/8 inch at a time till you are under a 2 Swr. The cutting sequence is different by antenna type. A good indication of a good connected and right size antenna is the static. Static levels very on where you live, where you are, space weather, and ionospheric conditions. If your squelch is on high. Only the strongest signals you will hear. I keep the squelch off to hear the weak signals till it gets too noisy. You'll want the top of the antenna at least 2ft higher that your vehicle's roof. Antennas at 4ft have worked great for me. I now have a 3ft steel whip on a magnet mount on the roof of my van. With the top of my antenna reaching 9ft total with the vehicle heigth. It performs well.
I'm sure you've figured it out by now. It's because you cooked your coax. Never cool it. It's best to s snake it loosely. The spring isn't going to be a problem. On occasion with certain antennas it maybe but springs usually are fine with these set ups.
Take it to a good CB shop, it can be fixed, and after it is. (Do this- I would run a ground wire from the side of the CB to the base mount, of the antenna before it quits transmitting again. In that case it well receive but not transmit.) you have a burnt transistor or a resistor, a easy fix for a good CB man.
I would run a ground wire from the side of the CB to the base mount, of the antenna before it quits transmitting all together. In that case it well receive but not transmit.
cut the excess coax cable that's an extra foot you don't need. May also want to run an extra ground from the antenna to the truck frame. 6 Gage wire works great.
I have the same problem the drivers can hear me fine but my antenna light comes on when I speak and it is bothersome. I heard it can mess up your cb radio and I have my coax cable straight no loop or kinks in it I tuned it but continues to come on
Ch1 SWR is highest at 1.3-1.5 with the radio meter. My under standing is if its higher on ch1 my antenna needs to be higher, am I correct on this? I'm not sure i want to go poking around inside my radio I have some skills but not to savvy on the electronics end of it.
I have been the Stryker radio for several weeks in my vehicle and have been very impressed with the functionality and quality of the radio. The stock microphone is paired very well to the radio; however, you will achieve even better audio quality if a quality dynamic mic is used with the radio. I have received very good reports on the audio while using an Astatic 636L microphone with the radio ($60 at any Pilot or Love's truck stop). The radio is also paired with a Stryker SR-A10 magnet mount ( strykerradios.com/best-cb-antennas/ ) on my setup which is also an excellent mobile antenna. The radio has a large and effective heat sink (cooling fins) on the back of the radio that sticks out a bit...so be sure to check your mounting space/clearances before performing an install. Software to customize the radio is available for download at the Stryker website ( strykerradios.com ). The software allows customization of frequencies assigned to channels in each band as well as customization of roger beeps and radio operating parameters. (6) roger, beeps may be programmed and individually assigned to individual channels. Especially nice is the ability to set operating ranges for voltage, max SWR, and max key down time...all of which serve to protect the (4) MOSFET output transistors from damage. Finally, there are few radios that look as SWEET as the Stryker SR-955HPC ( strykerradios.com/store/10-meter-radio-955hpc/ ). There is a fairly large signal meter to the left of the face plate and the back-lighting on the face plate looks amazing...especially at night. There are several TH-cam videos out there on this radio as well as other reviews, so check those out. Buy with confidence, this is a rock-solid transceiver and you won't be disappointed if you purchase one.
A tip if your SWRS are 1.1 to 1.5 and still getting the antenna warning try turning down your mic gain it will stop the warning it only goes red when over modulation takes place
I never did get mine straight, I've been using it as is. A friend of mine said the ltd is constant like this and I should get a true SWR meter to check it. I totaled my truck a few months back and now use it as a base station. I haven't had any problems with it since.
It does NOT need fixing. The antenna warning light should have been labeled "Modulation Lamp" because that is exactly what most of them do. I even ran my Cobra into a Dummy Load where the SWR is flat zero and the red LED comes on when modulating with the mic gain all the way up. I think Cobra dropped the ball when they called it a Warning Light.
So dynamike to high right?
I have the same issue. When dynamic knob is all the way up, ANT light turns on. When i turn it down, ANT light does not come on.
My light is on with the dynamite all the way down
My antenna placement and coax routing was my ultimate problem, with the whip setting at the corner my ground plane was off. My coax was run down through the trans tunnel and run along side the main harness to it. When the truck was running the elec noise from harness was interfering with the signal.
giantj6ft7 wire it straight to the batteries. Engine noise problem will be solved.
I watched another video (I had same problem w 29 BT) that may solve your problem. It fixed mine, problem may be radio can't draw enough power at the fusebox. This can be tested by simply hooking a jumper cable to + terminal on battery and other end to hot wire on your CB. Will try and find video so you can check it out
I'm also having an antenna light problem in my rig is fine no antenna light I swap to my pickup just bought a brand new antenna magnet for some reason it's a solid red
In know this is old but I just got back into CB's. The problem is an age old one with the way you mounted the antenna. It's seeing 2 ground plains. One from the cab and one from the bed. The only way to get the SWR's down is to buy a really long antenna, like a 7 Ft. Fire stick or similar. The other option is to mount the antenna all the way in back of the bed or roof mount it.
I know it won't look keen but that is what needs to be done.
Been reading some Forums that are saying not to put much stock in that red light warning. I know it bugs you but if your SWR reading looks good and you are talking and receiving. To just not to worry about the light. Sometimes red light calibration from the factory is more than likely off a little.
different brand batteries and different sizes have different power ranges. running to your fuse panel will insure no damage comes to your radio.
if its in a cig lighter it needs too be run direct too your battery . also maybe how your cb coax is ran stay away from the transmission and fuse box had the issue on my 98 blazer
Have to set your swr to lowest settings anything under 1.5 is good, also run a thicker ground wire to your antenna bracket.
Hey there giantj6ft7 what gets me is how a lot of cb people on TH-cam always the cb radio system seems to work better than I can get my own CB radio set up going so far. Anyway, maybe I got keep trying. There are a lot of gaps when I talk on CB and install a CB radio system in a vehicle.🙂👍👍
Switched hot as in ignition switched. The only difference between the fuse box and the battery -truck off no difference 12.3/truck running batt. 13.2-fuse box 12.7 volts.
looping the coax will just create a choke and maybe kill off a tiny bit of power, sure it might bring up the swr but not toa point where yo would notice
This is a honest question and i can help if you answer it. Are you still running your radio lile this? I ask because i have a 04 f 150 and had the same issue i bought a magnet mount for 30 bucks and im getting out clear as some of my modded trucker friends. If i need to make a video for you i can just let me know.
you ever figure out your problem? Just wondering if you did cause i am having the same problem. Somewhere i read you can't have the antenna wire coiled like you do in the video. My coax is grounded properly. Checked it with an ohm meter. my receiver is bolted to the roof and the coax cable is ran to the rear of the vehicle along the headliner. the antennas are bolted to the side of my vehicle and the tops stick above the roof of the vehicle. The antenna is 2 foot in lenght with a spring perch.
i've been having this same problem myself with the 29LTD CLassic i put in my 4x4, on the trail the antenna light comes on, and the radio wont transmit further than from me to the other vehicle directly infront of me in the convoy, in town, i can hear everyone, but cant get out, relocated power wire, relocated ground, installed spring to 102" whip, got the antenna light to go out, but now the radio wont transmit, checked voltages, key off radio on, 12.5 volts at radio, key on engine running, 14.4, and its wired to the fusebox, and grounded to chassis ground under dash *confused*
I have a cobra 29 lxle with a penetrator antenna and a 1.2 match. why go lower no one will notice it anyway.
And never run your radio directly to your battery. You run it to the accessory fuse in the fuse panel. And run the black to the door panel there by the hinge. It comes with a manual for a reason.
Well that was informative, try turning your v6 knob inside cb clockwise until light goes off. Do this with bottom off and ant disconnected, power on of coarse. Key mic and turn screw til red light goes off
You happen to know the location on a ranger rci39vhp. On the board area location on what it's marked as.
You happen to know the location on a ranger rci39vhp. On the board area location on what it's marked as.
Loose the spring and don't coil the coax!
no need for a switch in the middle straight too the battery is what you need.it will not draw on the battery or drain it while off.go through the fire wall with some rtv sealant around the wire too keep it from chaffing.
You have the coax looping that's what is causing this problem
Coax looping? Been trying to figure out my issue it was working, then I'm not even getting static noise or anything, have noooo clue
antenna wire looped like that is not good for transmit. supposed to loop it like yarn in figure 8 with tape in center or zip tie
Looks to me that you and 10 is too close to the cab move the antenna away from the cab put the antenna on the roof of the vehicle. Are you find at work better?
Its the mount you have. The liner in between the mount and your bed is causing interference with your reciever. I had the same problem with my truck and got a magnet mount and no problems.
I have a K30 magnet mount antenna and the same radio. and I have the same issue. Except I can barley receive and cant transmit at all. no one can hear me. ?????
Do you have to ground the antenna? I didn’t but was told I didn’t have to. No sound coming in or out and swr is bad rating also
The antenna itself doesn't need to be grounded. The mount end should already be grounded if it's attached to any metal part of your vehicle. This will help the antenna perform the way it should. Magnetic mount antennas use a capacitive ground through it's base to the roof of the vehicle.The antenna will need to be adjusted till you get at least a 1 but no more than a 2 SWR on both CH 1 and 40. Depending what antenna you have. You'll need to do some cutting to the antenna itself. 1/8 inch at a time till you are under a 2 Swr. The cutting sequence is different by antenna type. A good indication of a good connected and right size antenna is the static. Static levels very on where you live, where you are, space weather, and ionospheric conditions. If your squelch is on high. Only the strongest signals you will hear. I keep the squelch off to hear the weak signals till it gets too noisy. You'll want the top of the antenna at least 2ft higher that your vehicle's roof. Antennas at 4ft have worked great for me. I now have a 3ft steel whip on a magnet mount on the roof of my van. With the top of my antenna reaching 9ft total with the vehicle heigth. It performs well.
it being over the transmission may have some affect as well . run a ground.strap from the.bed.of the truck too the f
I'm sure you've figured it out by now. It's because you cooked your coax. Never cool it. It's best to s snake it loosely. The spring isn't going to be a problem. On occasion with certain antennas it maybe but springs usually are fine with these set ups.
It is because of the coiled coax
@giantj6t7 I have the same problem did you get your fix how did you?
My cb won’t transmit. Everything looks great get good sounds but no one hears me
Take it to a good CB shop, it can be fixed, and after it is. (Do this-
I would run a ground wire from the side of the CB to the base mount, of the antenna before it quits transmitting again. In that case it well receive but not transmit.) you have a burnt transistor or a resistor, a easy fix for a good CB man.
I would run a ground wire from the side of the CB to the base mount, of the antenna before it quits transmitting all together. In that case it well receive but not transmit.
cut the excess coax cable that's an extra foot you don't need. May also want to run an extra ground from the antenna to the truck frame. 6 Gage wire works great.
"Bingo" We have a winner
My light comes on only on channels 36-40, plus I get raiding squelch when driving, sometimes no static at all even when squelch is wide open...weird!
My friend is having same problem too. Did you get it fix or know someone that can fix it?
@@michaelclayton2407 I ditched that radio, bought a president mckinley, love it?
I have the same problem the drivers can hear me fine but my antenna light comes on when I speak and it is bothersome. I heard it can mess up your cb radio and I have my coax cable straight no loop or kinks in it I tuned it but continues to come on
Did you get your cb issue fixed?
Fix it yet?
Joe Smith How to install a CB radio and linear amp
Did you ever get this fixed?
Swr looks really height!
Are you referring to the meter swing when I key up? That's not SWR, that's signal strength.
Xbob gottX yeah if you notice, hes switched off of swr
Excess coax cable should be figured 8'ed, & zip tied in the center not coiled.
Antenna length needs adjusted.
and what kind of antenna and mount are you using
how do you have your cable ran? if the coax too the antenba is by a power source it will cause it,if
Did you get this fixed?
thats all I can think of brother if its direct too the battery .
Ch1 SWR is highest at 1.3-1.5 with the radio meter. My under standing is if its higher on ch1 my antenna needs to be higher, am I correct on this? I'm not sure i want to go poking around inside my radio I have some skills but not to savvy on the electronics end of it.
Higher on channel 1 means too short of antenna. Higher on channel 40 means antenna too long. Cbworld has a guide for checking swr and interpreting it
mine does this only on high channels low it does not come on swr high and low 1.1
how is your antenna mounted?
I adjusted my antenna does anyone know what else I can try?
Vr6.. dial her up slowly till it disappears only if your swr is good
Did u get it fixed
get the swr meter out-run tests
where is your power wire
Just put some electrical tape ober light. Boom solved!
Your Antenna should be 6 to 8 inches away from the cab
I’m having the same problem
Rolling up your coax like that will act as a RF choke, you need to unroll it.
Power is running to switched hot.
That radio aint to good i sent mine back my old 29 works plain and clear with ever antenna I've used but the new one aint good at all
Check your SWR
Un coil your coax u will get the antenna light off
what is is ,,,,,,
Wait so your saying I can’t just had a fucking loop of wire oh
Sup Guys?
Spring is junk. Don't ever coil the coax.
coax is to long, just need it long enough to go from radio to antenna
Come on bad advice
I have been the Stryker radio for several weeks in my vehicle and have been very impressed with the functionality and quality of the radio.
The stock microphone is paired very well to the radio; however, you will achieve even better audio quality if a quality dynamic mic is used with the radio. I have received very good reports on the audio while using an Astatic 636L microphone with the radio ($60 at any Pilot or Love's truck stop). The radio is also paired with a Stryker SR-A10 magnet mount ( strykerradios.com/best-cb-antennas/ ) on my setup which is also an excellent mobile antenna.
The radio has a large and effective heat sink (cooling fins) on the back of the radio that sticks out a bit...so be sure to check your mounting space/clearances before performing an install.
Software to customize the radio is available for download at the Stryker website ( strykerradios.com ). The software allows customization of frequencies assigned to channels in each band as well as customization of roger beeps and radio operating parameters. (6) roger, beeps may be programmed and individually assigned to individual channels. Especially nice is the ability to set operating ranges for voltage, max SWR, and max key down time...all of which serve to protect the (4) MOSFET output transistors from damage.
Finally, there are few radios that look as SWEET as the Stryker SR-955HPC ( strykerradios.com/store/10-meter-radio-955hpc/ ). There is a fairly large signal meter to the left of the face plate and the back-lighting on the face plate looks amazing...especially at night.
There are several TH-cam videos out there on this radio as well as other reviews, so check those out. Buy with confidence, this is a rock-solid transceiver and you won't be disappointed if you purchase one.
waste of money