When buying ethanol free gas, I always pump about a gallon into my car first. It removes the gas that has ethanol in the gas pump. I also learned that Heet and stabile don't work. I learned that from another TH-cam channel called Chickanic. I use what she proved to work on water in the gas. She did this video about 3-4 months ago. Keep up the good work JB. Congratulations on your 100,000 subscribers and being at 108,000 at the time of this video. I hope that you and Mrs Garage Gear have a safe and happy new year.
Before you do this try running some SeaFoam in the fuel. It might not fix it immediately, but if you run it and then let it sit a bit (between uses) it has cleared up several clogged carbs for me.
I've had good luck with Berryman B12 Chemtool as well. I will usually add a bit to like every other fuel up. Doesn't take much, but it really helps keep the carb in good running order.
Agreed. I use Seafoam with tank fill. Nad drain the gas each spring for storage. Never had to clean my Cub’s carb in over 10years. Costs a bit of $$ but worth it.
@@Halenrocks5150 dude seriously? If you think mediocre is one of the best it just shows how far the standard has fallen. Why take the muffler cage completely off with the belt guides when all that has to be done to get the exact same results with less time and work is loosen the bolt behind the chute frame so it can be moved to access the carb a bit easier. Hell I don't even have to loosen it to do the job but doing so makes it easier. Completely removing it just adds unnecessary work and the possibility of screwing up the chute control gears housed in the top of it. If this is your idea of one of the best you would bow down to a decent mechanic like they're a god lmao embarrassing.
JB, you rock! And a fellow Lancaster NY comrade. I run a mobile engine repair business and see many a customer with 2 or 3 gas cans in their garage. Many seem to play mixologist. Some issues originate from multiple gas purchases, new gas on old gas and particulates collecting in these cans. I generally suggest to the customer to dump the gas and clean the can, start fresh. Go Bills!
I have 2 gas cans and labeled the one with older gas to avoid any mixups. Mind sharing your business name for any future needs? I’m in Amherst, Go Bills!
Great video. I live in southern Ontario and as far as I know we can not buy ethonl free gas at a pump anymore. So for the Canadian viewers I drain the fuel on my snow blower and then run the engine until it dies. Then in the fall put fresh fuel in it. Cheers.
i still use stabil in ethanol free gas in my can, but i started following your advice from a past comment on a different video and started draining my tank completely between seasons and i refill my cans every 3-6 months and it really makes a difference when i fire up my machines at the start of each season. i started helping my elderly neighbor drain his equipment between seasons because i got tired of spending hours helping him get them started lol i've shown him your videos and shown him how easily my snowblower and lawn mower start following your advice and i think he's convinced
Just did this today for same exact problem on my new to me Ariens Classic 24. Pilot just got was clogged. Had to run on full choke. Now she purrs on idle. Thank you !!
Sounds good JB.. Heading to my shed to work on another push mower, for something to do. Already have 3 on the back porch to sell or give them someone in the spring. Ever come in the house and hear " You smell like oil or gas or whatever else you have out there" LOL ..Have a good day..
Great carburetor maintenance vid, your teaching skills don’t go unnoticed very professional and great humor 😂absolutely ethanol free gasoline stay away from fuel stabilizers I also have gone from 5gal containers to 21/2 gal keeps me from storing longer than I should Thx for sharing 👍
I always used 87 octane pump gas with Seafoam in it in my snowblower. The reason I have it in the gas all year long is because we never know when the last snowfall will be and when I'm going to be done using it. That way I am always prepared. I NEVER drain a carb in any of my engines because of the Seafoam. My snowblower (as well as my motorcycles, lawnmowers. chainsaw. etc) all start up like new when I need them. I do suggest filling your gas tank up full (then shut off the petcock) before storage if it is a metal one. This will prevent it from rusting on the inside of the tank. Great video JB as always. Hope your Christmas went well and Happy New Year!!
👍👍 I've become a firm believer in using ethanol free gas in my small engine equipment. Some time ago I was watching Chickanic where Bre suggested that the most pumps share a hose line with other grades of gas so the first quart or more contains whatever was last pumped (which likely contained ethanol gas). Since then, I select the 90 ethanol free gas and put 1 gallon in my truck tank, then fill up my 5g gas can. ...that has 2 oz. of Stabil. (yea, I still use stabilizer even in the ethanol free gas as although debatable, gas can go stale pretty quickly.
I agree 1000 percent to avoid gas with ethanol. Since running non ethanol ONLY in all my small engines and draining the tank at the end of the season no issues. Thank you for sharing this video. GO BILLS 🏈
I used regular unleaded gasoline in my snowblower and lawn mower for years because it was the least expensive -- or so I thought. I also used fuel stabilizer (STABIL) in my lawn equipment for years and almost always had problems starting the mower and snowblower at the beginning of each season of use. After spending beaucoup money at repair shops, I learned to clean the carburetors myself. That saved money, but still cost me time and effort because I was cleaning the carbs on my gear every season, sometimes more than once with the mower. However, once I started using synthetic fuel both to store and to run my machines, the problems with starting have disappeared. I haven't had to clean my snowblower carb in ten years; this year I cleaned my lawn mower carb after 5 years. True, I spend more on fuel, but I save a lot of money and time on repairs. Your recommendation that owners use non-ethanol fuel to operate their yard machines is spot on. For storage, however, I would add the recommendation that they forego using fuel stabilizer altogether and use synthetic fuel. Which synthetic fuel they should use I cannot say. I have only had experience with one synthetic fuel, TruFuel, and it has worked well for me. I have no reason to believe that other synthetic fuels would not work just as well, for storage at least. Thanks for the video! 👍👍
Hi JB, your videos are helping me rehab a snowblower I got from a pawn shop; a Spirit snowblower from ‘98. Regarding the carb, I did a rebuild, cleaning, though not to your level, run ethanol free 91 octane, use Sta-Bil and run Sea Foam every so often to clean out and fix what I couldn’t get at.
Recently acquired a snowblower from a family member who can't keep it right now. It was surging like crazy and I had to keep the choke engage to keep it running. Took the carburetor off and thoroughly cleaned it. Now, it runs like a champ. (Snapper two-stage) Thanks for the video. (01/05/25)
I too had this same issue with my Ariens 22 inch compact with the LCT 208 cc engine. It started with sounding like a slight miss from time to time and progressed to having it only run smoothly with the choke slightly on. I attributed it to the fuel shut off valve going bad (which wouldn't shut off and was permanently in the open state), thus I was forced to let stabilized E-10 fuel remain in the carb for the winter season. At the beginning of the next season, I went to town on replacing the fuel shut off valve (to be able to run the carb dry in-between snow falls) and then cleaned the emulsion tube, which like yours looked exceptionally clean. After putting it all back together, I ran it with no improvement. I still had to run it with the choke partially on, so I went full bore and removed the black plastic pilot jet and reamed the brass tube inside of their which looked a little bit green and clogged. Put it back together, ran it again, and problem solved. I hope that my comments will help someone in the future with their machine. CLICK BELOW FOR A CARB DIAGRAM / ILLUSTRATION / TROUBLE SHOOTING #2 IS WHAT NEEDS TO BE CLEANED TO STOP THE SURGING / HUNTING www.honda-engines-eu.com/files/files/carb-check-gx120-390-gxv140-390-en.pdf
Thanks for this video!! I have just cleaned out a Craftmen Briggs engine carburetor which is about 2 yrs old. I have been using regular fuel with stabil brand for many years in all my equipment with no issues. this carburetor started doing exactly what the 3X was. Seems to me the builds of fuel systems on equipment has drastically changed quality wise and are more vulnerable to ethanol. Off to get Ethanol free and left over regular gas in the truck tank. Finally the 2023 3X cub cadet which i own they moved the choke to the top of the cage. Can't wait to see what puzzle that will be😂. Thanks for what you guys and gals do!
Thanks for the informative video now to get my snowblower back running properly. When starting a pull cord start engine you may want to pull the cord halfway out twice then pulling it the full length which makes starting easier. Thanks again
Inform people that if they used ethanol free premium gas, they would probably never have these problems! I have been using that gas since I bought my Ariens 1028 used over 30 years ago. Great videos none the less from a somewhat neighbor (Lancaster guy here!)
Awesome explanation...but the way i avoid those carburetor issues on my snow thrower and riding mower is to start it and turn off the fuel to the carb and let it run until my ST/riding mower runs out of gas in the carburetor. That way when i store them away there's no gas to gum up the small jets in the carburetor to clog up. During storage i fills up the tank with gas and use gas stabilizer to keep the gas fresh come the next season they fire right up
I have a toro snowblower, same engine as what you just worked on, Every year late October early November I get my machine ready for the winter season, and every year I've had to clean my carb, I did the same for this season, and it ran fine until I went to start it before the incoming snow this month and it wouldn't start, What I found was rust in the tank clogging up the filter in the tank and black something in the fuel bowl. So I cleaned the tank with acid and then did exactly what you did to the carb, I know the issue is the fuel with ethanol in it and the closest place around me that is ethanol free is about an hour and a half away from me, and that is if they aren't out of it. So I've just kept a few hard to get at bolts off my machine to make getting that cover off fast and easy. I think this spring when I put the machine away until next season I will seal the tank and then figure out how to remove ethanol from what I can get locally.
Another great informative video JB. Since all the covers can be unique to each brand I would love to see this again on an Ariens Deluxe. Always worried about breaking those plastic knobs. Keep the great work!
Awesome video, JB. Always enjoy your humor when working on these machines. I'm glad I never owned a cub cadet 😃 I've picked up that form-a-funnel during the summer and it's a game changer. Have an awesome day.
Ethanol free for me, BUT, if you're filling a gas can and the gas pump has one nozzle for all grades, put at least half a gallon in your car before your cans. The previous customer probably bought ethanol fuel and there will be a decent amount left in the fuel hose. Chickanic did a test on this and the results were surprising.
Nice vid JB, those engines are torture to access the carb, Ariens and Toro you can get to the carb in a fraction of the time. Unfortunately I can’t buy ethanol free gas in North Jersey, I’d love it if someone can prove me wrong. I’ve used stabilizers and just run the carb dry, another advantage to the Ariens/Toro that the MTD machines don’t have (fuel valve). If I’m flipping a big machine like yours, I put the VP ethanol free gas in a can in it, but that stuff isn’t cheap at all.
Hey JB, I got my Mr. Wilton a set of magnetic vise jaw pads. They're great for making sure you don't accidently score soft mating surfaces like aluminum on carburetors by overtightening the vise. I've discovered the electric starter on my 824 is "no bueno", lol. Got a NOS one ordered for it that should be here Saturday before the big snow hits Sunday & Monday. Also, just used your link to order that form a funnel for the old 10M4 as its drain sits about an inch behind the frame on that little 4hp Tecumseh.
Have never disassembled the carb from my blower being new over 20 years ago. Use high octane gas and occasionally Seafoam and the fuel system won’t get dirty 😮 Starts first time every season 👍
I started running Ethanol free fuel exclusively in engines that dont run weekly (snowblower, edger, trimmer) including 2 cycle engines (pre-mixed). I no longer use Stabil or Seafoam. I noticed they are much easier to start and seem to run as well or better than before. I use gasoline all season but switch to Ethanol free fuel for the mower near the end of the season to be sure that is what sits in the tank all winter.
I've converted to ethanol free in all my equipment. I still run them dry at seasons end and i still add stabilizer to the 5 gallon containers... yes, its belt and suspenders however it works....
I add a small amount of either Marvel Mystery Oil or Lucas fuel treatment to the fuel. I also use high octane fuel to endure there is little to no ethyl alcohol in the fuel. This helps tremendously.
The jet that was under the plastic screw is the same issue with Honda EU2000 generators. Amazing how such a small hole makes all the difference. Thanks for the video.
JB, Congrats on the 100K subs! I guess I'm strange because I stabilize my ethanol-free gas. I bought a new Powersmart two stage snow blower last winter and that's how I found you, through your unboxing video. I performed your break-in procedure and only ran the blower 2-3 times last winter. (Light snow season here in Lansing, MI.) In the spring, I followed all of your rustproofing videos for putting anti-seize on the wheels, greasing the zerk-free augers, spraying down the exterior with fluid film, etc., then I drained the gas and ran it dry. This fall, I fueled it up with ethanol-free stabilized fuel, and .... nothing. It wouldn't start. Not even a sputter. After confirming spark and fuel was in the bowl, I spritzed a little fuel into the throat of the carb and it fired up for a second, so I knew it was a no fuel issue. I followed your MTD-Craftsman-Troy-Bilt carb cleaning video (close enough to my Powersmart), and everything inside the carb looked squeaky clean, but I still cleaned all the jets. After reassembling, the snow blower fired right up! Not sure if a speck of dirt was stuck somewhere, but your videos fixed my snow blower! Maybe this spring I'll try the impeller mod. I also threw a tip into your jar for you and Garage Gal.
Hey John! First off thank you! Greatly appreciate you my friend! Glad the videos helped you out. It’s sounds like something small must have been blocking a jet somewhere in that carb. Glad you were able to solve the problem! Sometimes the smallest things create the biggest problems on these things. Enjoy your new years my friend! Thanks for being a cool fan!
Before having to pull the carb, try seafoam and then also try running it WOT and then quickly cover the intake to create some extreme vacuum to try and clear the ports. It's not likely either will work in most cases but they're way easier to try before the saga of pulling the carb
Last year only used my blower twice 😮 I’ve never drained the fuel and only use high octane. Occasionally add Seafoam. It’s over 20 years old and works great. Oil changes and storing inside is key to long life.
Love this video and have performed this a couple times on my 1985 524i Snapper. This year, due to injury, I didnt want to spend the time with a proper cleaning and bought a new carb kit for under $20. Much easier this year and i was surprised how inexpensive the new kit was.
Live in MN. I have 15 gallons of Oxy free/ethanol free gas and I treat that as well just to cover myself in the event of those time where we get the 4ft of snow dump. Seems to work. Same for lawn mowers etc. Love the videos, love your enthusiasm and attitude. Thanks much
Great video! I have the same 30” 420cc snowblower (with tracks). I go as far as needed to access the black jet on top and clean that. Good machine but wish we had more snow in my area. It has only seen a couple of inches since I bought it used 😢.
I've had good luck with cleaning carbs by simply removing the float, needle and bowl and then chucking it into an ultrasonic cleaner I have filled with concentrated "super clean". Worked great on a Champion 3200psi pressure washer carburetor that was filled with green goo after sitting over the winter with ethanol gas and Stabil in it. And that's why I no longer use either, LOL! I did just order a set of those wires for the jet holes, although, in the past I've just used 28 gauge magnet wire I happen to have a roll of for fixing antenna coils on old tube radios, lol.
I use Sta-Bil Marine stabilizer year round. I did start running my tank empty because of your videos....started right up this year. No good source of ethanol free...
I love these videos. Have you ever thought about investing in a small motorcycle lift? I bought an Orion Motor Tech lift for $70 on Amazon and it makes working on my snow blower sooo much nicer. It gets the snow blower nice and high off the floor and it makes maintenance a lot easier on the back and legs. Btw, always Ethanol-Free in my small engines, boat, motorcycle and hotrod.
Two things I’ve done to cure & insure my Ariens Classic 24 does not have any surging issues: Firstly : With a .015” micro drill bit, opened the orifus of the low idle valve to allow more fuel flow. Secondly: Ethanol free fuel is not available in most of Ontario, & in my immediate area. I found online a way to remove it from the 91 octane fuel that’s available. In a 10 litre case can , filled with 9 litres of gas , I add 750 ml. of filtered tap water. Then mix well & let stand over night. As gas & water don’t mix, the water settles to the bottom. The water absorbs all the ethanol out of the gas. Now it’s a simple matter of siphoning slightly more than the initial 750 ml. out, leaving Ethanol free 91 fuel. As a final precaution I add the recommended amount of fuel stabilizer, to the 9 litres of fuel. This will further protect any unused fuel in the blowers onboard tank as the blower may sit idle for extended periods.
Got one more question my Classic 24 has a one speed run setting. The compact has a carb with a throttling control. Can I upgrade by just installing a Compact carb?
Thanks JB! Another great informative video! and great for in my case Future Reference...Always nice to hear my favorite jingle as well of course 😁🎉as an added bonus! My Snow Blower is running amazing especially that impeller kit , which introduced me to your channel some time ago. I am having issues with my throttle lever its lowering on its own with the vibration of the snow blower and can't seem to find a solution online, do you by chance have any videos in your library on this issue? Unless ive lubed it way to much over the summer... Again, enjoy your informative vids, has helped me tremendously especially the impeller kit as mentioned earlier and thanks again for all the time you put into making these to educate ppl such as myself Round The Outside Rob 🎉😁👍
@@rob2669 ROUND THE OUTSIDE ROB!! Seems to be a common tag line in gg videos nowadays lol. I wonder if you can get in there and tighten the throttle nut up a few twists. I think there is a nut holding it on that may have come loose. Take it apart and follow it back to check. No videos here on that topic unfortunately. Let me know what you find. Happy new year bud.👍
@@GarageGear thanks JB, that's awesome! I will see what I can find out. Right now I'll try and deal with it or if we get another mild day like we've had because cold weather and I don't see 👁️to👁️ lol..should be living somewhere tropical lol but then I'd complain aboot ooooops about 😉😆the heat ..lol Yeh right. . Thanks again Mr JB! And have a great New Year to both you and the Garage Gal! Stay safe!! Round the Outside Rob 😵💫🎉😁
A simple trick that may help on some machines is to get it running and press the primer a few times while it is running. On some carbs with the air primer the primer is pushing air into the bowl of the carb which then pushes fuel from the bowl up through the main jet. In some cases(not all) that may unplug the main jet. If it does work is saves having to remove the carb to clear that main jet.
I run regular 87 octane gas in all my small engines. I don’t use stabilizer. I just drain all the fuel out at the end of the season. Then use fresh gas at the start of the next season. I have zero carb problems
Thanks for the video. I would not put all the tin back on after the fix. Seems not to be needed. Only thing I can think of is to hold in heat around the carb so that it does not ice up. What are your thoughts on the extra tin?
I've switched to using Aspen 4 in my new Ariens Deluxe 24. It's next to impossible to find ethanol free fuel in my area. So, even though Aspen 4 is quite expensive, it is certainly cheaper than having to send your snowblower in for service. Aspen also makes a 2 stroke engine version. I also drain my fuel at the end of winter season and run it dry. It certainly helps keep the carb clean.
Ethanol gas is the way to go with all the different metals used for carbs. Definitely agree with draining your tank and carb before storing it. Eliminating any issues when winter shows up. Nice JB👍
This is timely…I bought our Cub Cadet this past March…after winter sale. I started it up to run that first half hour break in and by the end of the half hour it was surging like crazy…brand new out if the box. I was lucky. I took it back to where I bought it and they put a new carb on it. I promptly drained the gas from the tank and drained the. Carb. No surging when I started it up for its first use of the season this year. Draining the carb in the off season is the key to helping keeping it clean. Quick add here…the new CC blowers have the HD IntelliPOWER electronic governor module that sits on top of the carb unit.
Honda and Chonda carbs always hunt without load due to that black jet being clogged. On my Honda engined push mower and pressure washer I’ve trimmed the air filter cover so I can access the screw with everything installed. On my Chonda snowblower I’ve just loved with it since under load it no longer hunts and it doesn’t affect power. Always use either treated premium fuel or trufuel.
It’s a head scratcher that Hodgson’s shuttered three years ago and that many small engine repair shops in the area have also closed. I hear it’s an issue with getting labor to do it. Hector’s has all but gotten out of that segment of business. However, with Amazon providing parts, the internet for exploding diagrams and great videos such as JB’s on TH-cam more people are taking a stab at it.
@@KENDZIification I send anyone asking for full repairs to hectors. Hopefully they stick around for a while. They recently closed their Clarence location
Learned after the first one to leave out the bolt behind the shute bracket its only a heat shield and there are 5 other ones holding it on. I know many small engine people that wont work on those engines.
Great video JB! You’ve done this before…haha. What a pain getting that carburetor off. Great tips on cleaning that too! Enjoying the warm weather while it lasts. Happy New Years to you and the Garage Gal. No vacation this year?
@@jaybooth4815 hey Jay! Yeahs it’s been a little while since I did a carb cleaning. This one had a unique issue though. Definitely enjoying the warm weather! You grilling lately? Maybe we’ll get away in February we’ll see ! Happy New Year my friend
I start by breaking the bowl bolt loose while on the machine (sometimes I forget.) The whole carb goes into a $99 ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight, then continue with the disassembly, put all parts back in the cleaner, run a few cycles again, then inspect and clean manually. I spend a lot less on carb cleaner than I used to. More than enough to cover the cost of my ultrasonic cleaner.
This was very informative. I normally use Ethanol Shield because I have never seen ethanol free gas in our area. Your quick search tips yielded a couple of places close by. I'm going to check and if they have it I will use going forward. My local Ariens dealer usually adds pure gas after servicing for the season. Thanks for the great advice.
I always run ethenol free gas and also add Sea foam with a full tank of gas for summer storage. Never had a issue with carbs and starts 1st pull everytime after summer storage. I do not drain the fuel system. The key point here is to NOT use fuel with ethenol in it.
I use "Ethanol shield" I took the tip from the highly regarded Chichanic. I leave the fuel in year round, however I always run my gas powered machines every two months minimum.
Good morning JB, I remember you talking about some classes but I can't find them 😕 And I can't open the oil drain in my ariens deluxe 24 it's stuck, any advice what to do?
Hey Chad! Were you referring to the rustproofing course? If so it’s linked in the video descriptions in all my latest videos. Here’s a link to a video on how to loosen a stuck drain bolt. Let me know if this helps you out HOW TO GET A SNOWBLOWER DRAIN TUBE PLUG OR CAP UNSTUCK! Plus Tips To PREVENT It From Sticking Again! th-cam.com/video/npz5ttWx4GA/w-d-xo.html
@GarageGear awesome that's exactly my problem, what's really annoying it's a brand new I got it last February and used it for literally half an hour. I'll work on it tomorrow 🙂 Thanks 🙏
i have a cub cadet 528swe snowblower, it runs fine the problem i have is that the choke knob keeps falling down to full choke and i have to keep putting the choke up until it falls down again with the vibration of the snowblower. any thoughts?
Hey Jenna the choke dial basically connects to your carburetor. Sounds like there is a problem with a linkage there. In the mean time, once you get it started some duct tape may hold it in place while you use it. You could do this until you can get it to a repair shop. 👍 hope this helps you out
I have a Snow King 27” 9 hp tecumseh. The problem is am having is when I engage the auger and get into the snow. The augers stop. What is my problem???? Appreciate any help on this. Thanks
@@shawnmcilroy4929 hey shawn, I would check your Auger bill to make sure there’s not too much slack in it and add some tension if needed. I would also check your gearbox to make sure that the gears are not stripped. Check those first and let me know.
I have a 2 stage cub. Those engine covers are a huge pita! The one facing the operator on. I’ve is plastic, so I ended up just cutting some tabs with a dremel to make room for a filter and shutoff valve. I also cut a couple tabs so you DON’T have to take the chute off! Huge difference.
We can only get ethanol free fuel in a can now and here at Eliminator Performance we use the B&S Kinetix alkylate fuel for storage, prior to B&S manufacturing their own brand we were purchasing Aspen alkylate fuel from them. Our 91 Octane has been testing out at 5% ethanol and we treat all our pump fuel with BGSC2 stabiliser which we recently checked for ethanol jellification after storage in our pressure washer for a time period of 6+ months. Result NO ethanol issues as is the case when we were using K100S+ which is made in Jamestown NY i believe. Up until 2023 we always were able to get ethanol free fuel and using the K100S+ stabiliser we had no issues firing up either Winter or Spring style equipment. We switched over to the BG line since many of our automotive shops highly recommend this product. Just a tip for your viewers keep carb sprays away from any rubber materials on your carbs many cause rubber breakdown, swelling and in some cases total destruction (which is the case with brake cleaner especially).
Hey JB, great video man. I’m a new subscriber and I have a White Outdoor snowblower with a Tecumseh engine that is in need of a carb clean. Do you have a video of one of those machines? TIA!
Thanks for following along. I do not have a video on that, but the principles are not very different so one of the carb cleaning videos I have may help you. Some adjustments may need to be made though.
I swear Engineers set out to discourage do-it-yourselfers during the design stage! I use ethanol, + stabilizer's during the season then drain it come spring. I never had an issue. Unsure why people argue the 'I just treat mine' issue. It's been proved over and over again it doesn't work. Great video JB.
Hey Swampy. Hope you’re having a good weekend, buddy! I hear the old “I stabilized it” statement over and over again. Yet people call me because their snowblower won’t run right. Thanks for watching as always my friend
Ive fixed many of those blowers with that engine. Have now figured its easier to put a new $12 carb on. what happens if you put it all back together and it still doesnt run correctly.
I used to run ethanol free fuel (premium) in all of my toys and tools until they started adding ethanol to it. Now I am screwed and have to rely on stabilizers as I have no other alternative. I did learn how to remove ethanol from gas but then it also reduces octain. I have the exact same snowblower but a craftsman and encountered surging where I had to use the choke a bit. I only removed the float bowl, main jet and defuser. They were in mint condition so did a cleaning of them and it runs a bit better. May have to do a detailed cleaning this summer. I also make sure I strain the fuel for impurities. Great video.
@@ScanMan1967 hey scan when you place a load on the engine you make it work harder. And if the carb isn’t clean and running rough it will bog down and/or die out.
I have a landscape business and I use 87-octane without stabilizer because at the end of the session, I drain the gas and never leave gas in the tank for over 28 days and it has worked do not know if I should change to nonethical or keep with the 87
I always pull those external pilot jets and clean them FIRST, before committing to pulling the carb. 80 percent of the time, it's the pilot jet that is clogged, especially on Honda engines. It'll save yourself a lot of work.
@@bjornsparf271 nope not on this one. No rubber gasket inside the carb. The needle on the float has a neoprene head. A lot of newer carbs are like this
No ethanol in my small engines here.... sorry to go off topic, but what is your opinion of the 3 stage vs. 2 stage.... from videos I have watched of 3 stage snow blowers in action, they don't seem to perform any better than a 2 stage.
That's a great question! I've been using a 2 stage for years, but I plan to compare the 3x to the Ariens and we will see which one throws better. More to come on that.
I just checked your link for “ethanol free near me” in New England? There isn’t any gas stations near me. I would have to travel over an hour to find one. I can however find VP Racing fuel in 5 gallon cans close by. But that is not affordable at about $80 for 5 gallons. Maybe near you it’s easier to find? But not near me. Thanks for the suggestion.
Here is a LINK to the FORM-A-FUNNEL used in the video! Thank you for supporting the channel! 👍
👉 amzn.to/4iWJOMw
When buying ethanol free gas, I always pump about a gallon into my car first. It removes the gas that has ethanol in the gas pump. I also learned that Heet and stabile don't work. I learned that from another TH-cam channel called Chickanic. I use what she proved to work on water in the gas. She did this video about 3-4 months ago. Keep up the good work JB. Congratulations on your 100,000 subscribers and being at 108,000 at the time of this video. I hope that you and Mrs Garage Gear have a safe and happy new year.
Smart! Thank you!
Never seen a ethanol free gas pump that didnt have its own handle
That’s a great tip, Whitie! Thanks for following along all the way since the beginning! Plenty more to come in 2025!
Common pump for different grades of fuel.
I’m lucky. The gas station where I buy my ethanol free gas from has a separate hose to pump it from.
Before you do this try running some SeaFoam in the fuel. It might not fix it immediately, but if you run it and then let it sit a bit (between uses) it has cleared up several clogged carbs for me.
I've had good luck with Berryman B12 Chemtool as well. I will usually add a bit to like every other fuel up. Doesn't take much, but it really helps keep the carb in good running order.
I've used Mechanic in a bottle before and have had good results.
I use sea foam injector, carb and choke specific product in my trucks, mowers, and blowers, and it works awesome.
Agreed. I use Seafoam with tank fill. Nad drain the gas each spring for storage. Never had to clean my Cub’s carb in over 10years. Costs a bit of $$ but worth it.
I've used Royal Purple carburetor and injector cleaner with good results they sell it at AutoZone
You sir, are one of the best small engine TH-camrs out there! I love your explanations, enthusiasm and sense of humor. You rock!!!!🤘🏻
@@Halenrocks5150 dude seriously? If you think mediocre is one of the best it just shows how far the standard has fallen. Why take the muffler cage completely off with the belt guides when all that has to be done to get the exact same results with less time and work is loosen the bolt behind the chute frame so it can be moved to access the carb a bit easier. Hell I don't even have to loosen it to do the job but doing so makes it easier. Completely removing it just adds unnecessary work and the possibility of screwing up the chute control gears housed in the top of it. If this is your idea of one of the best you would bow down to a decent mechanic like they're a god lmao embarrassing.
this guys a joke, removes half the engine covers and the carb just to clean two jets. hilarious
Thanks for the kind words my friend! I appreciate you
Try Donyboy73..he good also
JB, you rock! And a fellow Lancaster NY comrade. I run a mobile engine repair business and see many a customer with 2 or 3 gas cans in their garage. Many seem to play mixologist. Some issues originate from multiple gas purchases, new gas on old gas and particulates collecting in these cans. I generally suggest to the customer to dump the gas and clean the can, start fresh. Go Bills!
I have 2 gas cans and labeled the one with older gas to avoid any mixups.
Mind sharing your business name for any future needs? I’m in Amherst, Go Bills!
Oh you’re real close! What’s the name of your shop? Thanks for sharing this tip! Good stuff!
Great video.
I live in southern Ontario and as far as I know we can not buy ethonl free gas at a pump anymore.
So for the Canadian viewers I drain the fuel on my snow blower and then run the engine until
it dies.
Then in the fall put fresh fuel in it.
Cheers.
@@Willy7212 thanks Willy! Smart plan my friend
i still use stabil in ethanol free gas in my can, but i started following your advice from a past comment on a different video and started draining my tank completely between seasons and i refill my cans every 3-6 months and it really makes a difference when i fire up my machines at the start of each season. i started helping my elderly neighbor drain his equipment between seasons because i got tired of spending hours helping him get them started lol i've shown him your videos and shown him how easily my snowblower and lawn mower start following your advice and i think he's convinced
Awesome invincible! Thanks for sharing the channel with them! 👍
Just did this today for same exact problem on my new to me Ariens Classic 24. Pilot just got was clogged. Had to run on full choke. Now she purrs on idle. Thank you !!
@@joebidendidthat5121 RIGHT ON Joe! 👍
Sounds good JB.. Heading to my shed to work on another push mower, for something to do. Already have 3 on the back porch to sell or give them someone in the spring. Ever come in the house and hear " You smell like oil or gas or whatever else you have out there" LOL ..Have a good day..
Yes haha! Everyday the garage gal tells me I smell 🤣
Great carburetor maintenance vid, your teaching skills don’t go unnoticed very professional and great humor 😂absolutely ethanol free gasoline stay away from fuel stabilizers I also have gone from 5gal containers to 21/2 gal keeps me from storing longer than I should
Thx for sharing 👍
Appreciate you, Pit! Def a good idea going with the smaller gas can. Keeps it moving so it doesn’t sit for too long. Have an awesome weekend
I always used 87 octane pump gas with Seafoam in it in my snowblower. The reason I have it in the gas all year long is because we never know when the last snowfall will be and when I'm going to be done using it. That way I am always prepared. I NEVER drain a carb in any of my engines because of the Seafoam. My snowblower (as well as my motorcycles, lawnmowers. chainsaw. etc) all start up like new when I need them.
I do suggest filling your gas tank up full (then shut off the petcock) before storage if it is a metal one. This will prevent it from rusting on the inside of the tank.
Great video JB as always. Hope your Christmas went well and Happy New Year!!
All good information here, Painter. Hope you have an awesome New Year, Buddy!
👍👍 I've become a firm believer in using ethanol free gas in my small engine equipment. Some time ago I was watching Chickanic where Bre suggested that the most pumps share a hose line with other grades of gas so the first quart or more contains whatever was last pumped (which likely contained ethanol gas). Since then, I select the 90 ethanol free gas and put 1 gallon in my truck tank, then fill up my 5g gas can. ...that has 2 oz. of Stabil. (yea, I still use stabilizer even in the ethanol free gas as although debatable, gas can go stale pretty quickly.
That makes a lot of sense. That’s a smart move. Thanks for sharing
I agree 1000 percent to avoid gas with ethanol. Since running non ethanol ONLY in all my small engines and draining the tank at the end of the season no issues. Thank you for sharing this video. GO BILLS 🏈
Right on! I’m with you! Glad you like the video and Go Bills!
Excellent video. Ethanol free for me. I always run the engines dry at the end of each season and then i drain the carb bowl to make sure .
Smart plan! That’s the way to go!
I used regular unleaded gasoline in my snowblower and lawn mower for years because it was the least expensive -- or so I thought.
I also used fuel stabilizer (STABIL) in my lawn equipment for years and almost always had problems starting the mower and snowblower at the beginning of each season of use. After spending beaucoup money at repair shops, I learned to clean the carburetors myself. That saved money, but still cost me time and effort because I was cleaning the carbs on my gear every season, sometimes more than once with the mower.
However, once I started using synthetic fuel both to store and to run my machines, the problems with starting have disappeared. I haven't had to clean my snowblower carb in ten years; this year I cleaned my lawn mower carb after 5 years. True, I spend more on fuel, but I save a lot of money and time on repairs.
Your recommendation that owners use non-ethanol fuel to operate their yard machines is spot on. For storage, however, I would add the recommendation that they forego using fuel stabilizer altogether and use synthetic fuel. Which synthetic fuel they should use I cannot say. I have only had experience with one synthetic fuel, TruFuel, and it has worked well for me. I have no reason to believe that other synthetic fuels would not work just as well, for storage at least.
Thanks for the video! 👍👍
@@jerrystark6766 appreciate you sharing this with the community Jerry! Thanks my friend
Why didn’t I see that 6 hours ago 😮.
I learn a lot from these videos. Thank you and I appreciate your awesome work
Thanks for being a cool fan!
Hi JB, your videos are helping me rehab a snowblower I got from a pawn shop; a Spirit snowblower from ‘98. Regarding the carb, I did a rebuild, cleaning, though not to your level, run ethanol free 91 octane, use Sta-Bil and run Sea Foam every so often to clean out and fix what I couldn’t get at.
Good thinking, my friend! Awesome that you found that snowblower. That’s a good deal!
Thanks for sharing! It just amazes me how ignorant some of the designs of these machines are. They should bring the engineering back to the U.S.
Right in! Couldn’t agree more!
Recently acquired a snowblower from a family member who can't keep it right now. It was surging like crazy and I had to keep the choke engage to keep it running. Took the carburetor off and thoroughly cleaned it. Now, it runs like a champ. (Snapper two-stage) Thanks for the video. (01/05/25)
@@mjhammer8121 RIGHT ON MJ! Glad she runs like a champ now! 👍
I too had this same issue with my Ariens 22 inch compact with the LCT 208 cc engine. It started with sounding like a slight miss from time to time and progressed to having it only run smoothly with the choke slightly on. I attributed it to the fuel shut off valve going bad (which wouldn't shut off and was permanently in the open state), thus I was forced to let stabilized E-10 fuel remain in the carb for the winter season. At the beginning of the next season, I went to town on replacing the fuel shut off valve (to be able to run the carb dry in-between snow falls) and then cleaned the emulsion tube, which like yours looked exceptionally clean. After putting it all back together, I ran it with no improvement. I still had to run it with the choke partially on, so I went full bore and removed the black plastic pilot jet and reamed the brass tube inside of their which looked a little bit green and clogged. Put it back together, ran it again, and problem solved. I hope that my comments will help someone in the future with their machine.
CLICK BELOW FOR A CARB DIAGRAM / ILLUSTRATION / TROUBLE SHOOTING #2 IS WHAT NEEDS TO BE CLEANED TO STOP THE SURGING / HUNTING
www.honda-engines-eu.com/files/files/carb-check-gx120-390-gxv140-390-en.pdf
@@stephenleone2375 this is awesome! Appreciate you sharing this with the community Stephen 👍
Thanks for this video!! I have just cleaned out a Craftmen Briggs engine carburetor which is about 2 yrs old. I have been using regular fuel with stabil brand for many years in all my equipment with no issues. this carburetor started doing exactly what the 3X was. Seems to me the builds of fuel systems on equipment has drastically changed quality wise and are more vulnerable to ethanol.
Off to get Ethanol free and left over regular gas in the truck tank.
Finally the 2023 3X cub cadet which i own they moved the choke to the top of the cage. Can't wait to see what puzzle that will be😂.
Thanks for what you guys and gals do!
All these MTD snowblowers are quite the puzzle! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the informative video now to get my snowblower back running properly. When starting a pull cord start engine you may want to pull the cord halfway out twice then pulling it the full length which makes starting easier. Thanks again
Thanks for sharing scots
Inform people that if they used ethanol free premium gas, they would probably never have these problems! I have been using that gas since I bought my Ariens 1028 used over 30 years ago. Great videos none the less from a somewhat neighbor (Lancaster guy here!)
@@ap101081 ROCK ON AP! Cool that you’re close by! Thanks for watching
Awesome explanation...but the way i avoid those carburetor issues on my snow thrower and riding mower is to start it and turn off the fuel to the carb and let it run until my ST/riding mower runs out of gas in the carburetor. That way when i store them away there's no gas to gum up the small jets in the carburetor to clog up. During storage i fills up the tank with gas and use gas stabilizer to keep the gas fresh come the next season they fire right up
Thanks for sharing and watching David!
I have a toro snowblower, same engine as what you just worked on, Every year late October early November I get my machine ready for the winter season, and every year I've had to clean my carb, I did the same for this season, and it ran fine until I went to start it before the incoming snow this month and it wouldn't start, What I found was rust in the tank clogging up the filter in the tank and black something in the fuel bowl. So I cleaned the tank with acid and then did exactly what you did to the carb, I know the issue is the fuel with ethanol in it and the closest place around me that is ethanol free is about an hour and a half away from me, and that is if they aren't out of it. So I've just kept a few hard to get at bolts off my machine to make getting that cover off fast and easy. I think this spring when I put the machine away until next season I will seal the tank and then figure out how to remove ethanol from what I can get locally.
Appreciate you sharing this experience! Sounds like you have a good plan! Thanks for watching my friend
Another great informative video JB. Since all the covers can be unique to each brand I would love to see this again on an Ariens Deluxe. Always worried about breaking those plastic knobs. Keep the great work!
Appreciate it! Good idea. I’ll keep that in mind for a future video.
Awesome video, JB. Always enjoy your humor when working on these machines. I'm glad I never owned a cub cadet 😃 I've picked up that form-a-funnel during the summer and it's a game changer. Have an awesome day.
Thank you! Definitely a game changer. I use it for everything! Thanks for watching! Appreciate you!
Ethanol free for me, BUT, if you're filling a gas can and the gas pump has one nozzle for all grades, put at least half a gallon in your car before your cans. The previous customer probably bought ethanol fuel and there will be a decent amount left in the fuel hose. Chickanic did a test on this and the results were surprising.
Good tip! Thanks for sharing!
Nice vid JB, those engines are torture to access the carb, Ariens and Toro you can get to the carb in a fraction of the time.
Unfortunately I can’t buy ethanol free gas in North Jersey, I’d love it if someone can prove me wrong. I’ve used stabilizers and just run the carb dry, another advantage to the Ariens/Toro that the MTD machines don’t have (fuel valve). If I’m flipping a big machine like yours, I put the VP ethanol free gas in a can in it, but that stuff isn’t cheap at all.
Hey JB, I got my Mr. Wilton a set of magnetic vise jaw pads. They're great for making sure you don't accidently score soft mating surfaces like aluminum on carburetors by overtightening the vise. I've discovered the electric starter on my 824 is "no bueno", lol. Got a NOS one ordered for it that should be here Saturday before the big snow hits Sunday & Monday. Also, just used your link to order that form a funnel for the old 10M4 as its drain sits about an inch behind the frame on that little 4hp Tecumseh.
Awesome brother! Thank you! I may look into those new pads for vise.
Have never disassembled the carb from my blower being new over 20 years ago. Use high octane gas and occasionally Seafoam and the fuel system won’t get dirty 😮 Starts first time every season 👍
Thanks for sharing my friend
I started running Ethanol free fuel exclusively in engines that dont run weekly (snowblower, edger, trimmer) including 2 cycle engines (pre-mixed). I no longer use Stabil or Seafoam. I noticed they are much easier to start and seem to run as well or better than before. I use gasoline all season but switch to Ethanol free fuel for the mower near the end of the season to be sure that is what sits in the tank all winter.
Thanks for telling us how you roll, Steven! Appreciate it! Thanks for watching.
I've converted to ethanol free in all my equipment. I still run them dry at seasons end and i still add stabilizer to the 5 gallon containers... yes, its belt and suspenders however it works....
Thanks for sharing this. Everyone has their methods. Hope you’re having a great weekend!
I add a small amount of either Marvel Mystery Oil or Lucas fuel treatment to the fuel. I also use high octane fuel to endure there is little to no ethyl alcohol in the fuel. This helps tremendously.
Appreciate you sharing this with the community!
The jet that was under the plastic screw is the same issue with Honda EU2000 generators. Amazing how such a small hole makes all the difference. Thanks for the video.
You bet! It's amazing how small things can make a big difference, isn't it?
JB, Congrats on the 100K subs! I guess I'm strange because I stabilize my ethanol-free gas. I bought a new Powersmart two stage snow blower last winter and that's how I found you, through your unboxing video. I performed your break-in procedure and only ran the blower 2-3 times last winter. (Light snow season here in Lansing, MI.) In the spring, I followed all of your rustproofing videos for putting anti-seize on the wheels, greasing the zerk-free augers, spraying down the exterior with fluid film, etc., then I drained the gas and ran it dry. This fall, I fueled it up with ethanol-free stabilized fuel, and .... nothing. It wouldn't start. Not even a sputter. After confirming spark and fuel was in the bowl, I spritzed a little fuel into the throat of the carb and it fired up for a second, so I knew it was a no fuel issue. I followed your MTD-Craftsman-Troy-Bilt carb cleaning video (close enough to my Powersmart), and everything inside the carb looked squeaky clean, but I still cleaned all the jets. After reassembling, the snow blower fired right up! Not sure if a speck of dirt was stuck somewhere, but your videos fixed my snow blower! Maybe this spring I'll try the impeller mod. I also threw a tip into your jar for you and Garage Gal.
Hey John! First off thank you! Greatly appreciate you my friend! Glad the videos helped you out. It’s sounds like something small must have been blocking a jet somewhere in that carb. Glad you were able to solve the problem! Sometimes the smallest things create the biggest problems on these things. Enjoy your new years my friend! Thanks for being a cool fan!
Before having to pull the carb, try seafoam and then also try running it WOT and then quickly cover the intake to create some extreme vacuum to try and clear the ports.
It's not likely either will work in most cases but they're way easier to try before the saga of pulling the carb
@@peterjensen6844 thanks for the tips peter
Thanks for the interesting video! I am using a Honda snowplow in Japan to distribute my videos! Congratulations on 100,000 subscribers!
@@Samuraiwww thanks for watching my friend! Appreciate you
Last year only used my blower twice 😮 I’ve never drained the fuel and only use high octane. Occasionally add Seafoam. It’s over 20 years old and works great. Oil changes and storing inside is key to long life.
Thanks for sharing
Love this video and have performed this a couple times on my 1985 524i Snapper. This year, due to injury, I didnt want to spend the time with a proper cleaning and bought a new carb kit for under $20. Much easier this year and i was surprised how inexpensive the new kit was.
Appreciate you Jimmy! Thanks for watching
Live in MN. I have 15 gallons of Oxy free/ethanol free gas and I treat that as well just to cover myself in the event of those time where we get the 4ft of snow dump. Seems to work. Same for lawn mowers etc. Love the videos, love your enthusiasm and attitude. Thanks much
Appreciate you, Fly Guy! Thanks for being a cool fan!
Thanks JB! Have a safe and prosperous New Year.👍🏻
You got it Eagle! Same to you my friend
Great video! I have the same 30” 420cc snowblower (with tracks). I go as far as needed to access the black jet on top and clean that. Good machine but wish we had more snow in my area. It has only seen a couple of inches since I bought it used 😢.
Thanks for watching 10mm! Isn’t that the way it goes ? lol! Buy a snowblower get no snow lol! Have a great new year
I bought a toro super recycle lawm mor and MTD snowblower 2003. I empty the gas tank every off season and still serving me well every years until now.
@@ntxoovlishawjofficialchann7627 awesome ntx thanks for sharing
I've had good luck with cleaning carbs by simply removing the float, needle and bowl and then chucking it into an ultrasonic cleaner I have filled with concentrated "super clean". Worked great on a Champion 3200psi pressure washer carburetor that was filled with green goo after sitting over the winter with ethanol gas and Stabil in it. And that's why I no longer use either, LOL! I did just order a set of those wires for the jet holes, although, in the past I've just used 28 gauge magnet wire I happen to have a roll of for fixing antenna coils on old tube radios, lol.
Cool man! Thanks for sharing all this! Enjoy the weekend!
Thank you Jb. I remember when I commented you on TH-cam about this. Thank you for this !
You're welcome! Glad we could help! Hope the weekend is treating you well.
@GarageGear And to you Jb and Garage Gal hope you have a great weekend
I use Sta-Bil Marine stabilizer year round. I did start running my tank empty because of your videos....started right up this year. No good source of ethanol free...
@@jerryq1000 appreciate you sharing Jerry! 👍
I love these videos. Have you ever thought about investing in a small motorcycle lift? I bought an Orion Motor Tech lift for $70 on Amazon and it makes working on my snow blower sooo much nicer. It gets the snow blower nice and high off the floor and it makes maintenance a lot easier on the back and legs. Btw, always Ethanol-Free in my small engines, boat, motorcycle and hotrod.
I’m looking into a lift. Have to get rid of a snowblower or two before getting into that. Will need some space.
Two things I’ve done to cure & insure my Ariens Classic 24 does not have any surging issues:
Firstly : With a .015” micro drill bit, opened the orifus of the low idle valve to allow more fuel flow.
Secondly: Ethanol free fuel is not available in most of Ontario, & in my immediate area. I found online a way to remove it from the 91 octane fuel that’s available. In a 10 litre case can , filled with 9 litres of gas , I add 750 ml. of filtered tap water. Then mix well & let stand over night. As gas & water don’t mix, the water settles to the bottom. The water absorbs all the ethanol out of the gas. Now it’s a simple matter of siphoning slightly more than the initial 750 ml. out, leaving Ethanol free 91 fuel.
As a final precaution I add the recommended amount of fuel stabilizer, to the 9 litres of fuel. This will further protect any unused fuel in the blowers onboard tank as the blower may sit idle for extended periods.
Appreciate you sharing this with the community Rick!
@@GarageGearGot a bad surprise today. My blower had no spark & wouldn’t start. Bought a new plug…still no spark. Thinking ignition short to ground 🤷♂
Got one more question my Classic 24 has a one speed run setting. The compact has a carb with a throttling control. Can I upgrade by just installing a Compact carb?
@ could be something wrong with your ignition coil from the sounds of it
@ that I’m not sure about because the engines are a different cc each
Thanks JB! Another great informative video! and great for in my case Future Reference...Always nice to hear my favorite jingle as well of course 😁🎉as an added bonus!
My Snow Blower is running amazing especially that impeller kit , which introduced me to your channel some time ago.
I am having issues with my throttle lever its lowering on its own with the vibration of the snow blower and can't seem to find a solution online, do you by chance have any videos in your library on this issue? Unless ive lubed it way to much over the summer...
Again, enjoy your informative vids, has helped me tremendously especially the impeller kit as mentioned earlier and thanks again for all the time you put into making these to educate ppl such as myself
Round The Outside Rob 🎉😁👍
@@rob2669 ROUND THE OUTSIDE ROB!! Seems to be a common tag line in gg videos nowadays lol. I wonder if you can get in there and tighten the throttle nut up a few twists. I think there is a nut holding it on that may have come loose. Take it apart and follow it back to check. No videos here on that topic unfortunately. Let me know what you find. Happy new year bud.👍
@@GarageGear thanks JB, that's awesome! I will see what I can find out. Right now I'll try and deal with it or if we get another mild day like we've had because cold weather and I don't see 👁️to👁️ lol..should be living somewhere tropical lol but then I'd complain aboot ooooops about 😉😆the heat ..lol Yeh right. .
Thanks again Mr JB! And have a great New Year to both you and the Garage Gal! Stay safe!!
Round the Outside Rob 😵💫🎉😁
@@rob2669 I wouldn’t mind some tropical weather either lol! Happy new year to you and your family bud
A simple trick that may help on some machines is to get it running and press the primer a few times while it is running. On some carbs with the air primer the primer is pushing air into the bowl of the carb which then pushes fuel from the bowl up through the main jet. In some cases(not all) that may unplug the main jet. If it does work is saves having to remove the carb to clear that main jet.
That is a great tip! Thanks for sharing. Happy New Year, Bud!
I run regular 87 octane gas in all my small engines. I don’t use stabilizer. I just drain all the fuel out at the end of the season. Then use fresh gas at the start of the next season. I have zero carb problems
That’s a great system for keeping things running smoothly! Stick to it!
Thanks for the video. I would not put all the tin back on after the fix. Seems not to be needed. Only thing I can think of is to hold in heat around the carb so that it does not ice up. What are your thoughts on the extra tin?
It seems like a lot to get through to get to that carb too.
I always add sea foam to all my small equipment in the gas, never have a starting ptoblem for last 20 years, both farming and now city living.
@@Scoop985-f8z thanks for sharing scoop
Could this be avoided by always draining the gas at the end of the season and then running the machine until it is absolutely dry?
@@walterspringer565 you got it Walter 👍
I've switched to using Aspen 4 in my new Ariens Deluxe 24. It's next to impossible to find ethanol free fuel in my area. So, even though Aspen 4 is quite expensive, it is certainly cheaper than having to send your snowblower in for service. Aspen also makes a 2 stroke engine version. I also drain my fuel at the end of winter season and run it dry. It certainly helps keep the carb clean.
Right on my friend !
Ethanol gas is the way to go with all the different metals used for carbs. Definitely agree with draining your tank and carb before storing it. Eliminating any issues when winter shows up. Nice JB👍
Ethanol gas is the sticky problem Why you say it is good??
Wow my bad. I ment ethanol free gas. Yikes
@@anthonyelectric6045 LOL You had me worried.
Right on! I agree. Hope the weekend is treating you well!
This is timely…I bought our Cub Cadet this past March…after winter sale. I started it up to run that first half hour break in and by the end of the half hour it was surging like crazy…brand new out if the box. I was lucky. I took it back to where I bought it and they put a new carb on it. I promptly drained the gas from the tank and drained the. Carb. No surging when I started it up for its first use of the season this year. Draining the carb in the off season is the key to helping keeping it clean.
Quick add here…the new CC blowers have the HD IntelliPOWER electronic governor module that sits on top of the carb unit.
Good to know! Thanks for sharing your experience! This is important for others.
Good video, whenever possible I keep the carb cleaner away from O-rings and needle.
I do on certain carbs. On these ones it’s been fine over the years. It seems that new carb cleaner isn’t as strong as the old stuff.
Honda and Chonda carbs always hunt without load due to that black jet being clogged. On my Honda engined push mower and pressure washer I’ve trimmed the air filter cover so I can access the screw with everything installed. On my Chonda snowblower I’ve just loved with it since under load it no longer hunts and it doesn’t affect power. Always use either treated premium fuel or trufuel.
Good point, thanks for sharing!
I saw the Hodgeson Pool sticker on auger housing. Went there all the time for replacement parts. Sorry to have them close their doors. 😢
Yeah, they closed a few years back. Must have went out of business. That’s too bad.
It’s a head scratcher that Hodgson’s shuttered three years ago and that many small engine repair shops in the area have also closed. I hear it’s an issue with getting labor to do it. Hector’s has all but gotten out of that segment of business. However, with Amazon providing parts, the internet for exploding diagrams and great videos such as JB’s on TH-cam more people are taking a stab at it.
@@KENDZIification I send anyone asking for full repairs to hectors. Hopefully they stick around for a while. They recently closed their Clarence location
I use ethanol free gas in my mowers and blowers and drain the gas before storage
@@edbrown3047 smart plan! 👍
Learned after the first one to leave out the bolt behind the shute bracket its only a heat shield and there are 5 other ones holding it on. I know many small engine people that wont work on those engines.
Good to know! Thanks for sharing.
Great video JB! You’ve done this before…haha. What a pain getting that carburetor off. Great tips on cleaning that too! Enjoying the warm weather while it lasts. Happy New Years to you and the Garage Gal. No vacation this year?
@@jaybooth4815 hey Jay! Yeahs it’s been a little while since I did a carb cleaning. This one had a unique issue though. Definitely enjoying the warm weather! You grilling lately? Maybe we’ll get away in February we’ll see ! Happy New Year my friend
I start by breaking the bowl bolt loose while on the machine (sometimes I forget.) The whole carb goes into a $99 ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight, then continue with the disassembly, put all parts back in the cleaner, run a few cycles again, then inspect and clean manually. I spend a lot less on carb cleaner than I used to. More than enough to cover the cost of my ultrasonic cleaner.
Thanks for sharing mono
This was very informative. I normally use Ethanol Shield because I have never seen ethanol free gas in our area. Your quick search tips yielded a couple of places close by. I'm going to check and if they have it I will use going forward. My local Ariens dealer usually adds pure gas after servicing for the season. Thanks for the great advice.
Thanks for sharing! Glad it was helpful!
I always run ethenol free gas and also add Sea foam with a full tank of gas for summer storage. Never had a issue with carbs and starts 1st pull everytime after summer storage. I do not drain the fuel system. The key point here is to NOT use fuel with ethenol in it.
Thanks for sharing this. All good stuff!
I use "Ethanol shield" I took the tip from the highly regarded Chichanic. I leave the fuel in year round, however I always run my gas powered machines every two months minimum.
@@ERidesOn2 thanks for sharing erides
Even though it’s more costly I but the bullet and run VP small engine fuel for mine
@@MediocreBruh thanks for sharing revenge
Good morning JB,
I remember you talking about some classes but I can't find them 😕
And I can't open the oil drain in my ariens deluxe 24 it's stuck, any advice what to do?
Hey Chad! Were you referring to the rustproofing course? If so it’s linked in the video descriptions in all my latest videos. Here’s a link to a video on how to loosen a stuck drain bolt. Let me know if this helps you out HOW TO GET A SNOWBLOWER DRAIN TUBE PLUG OR CAP UNSTUCK! Plus Tips To PREVENT It From Sticking Again!
th-cam.com/video/npz5ttWx4GA/w-d-xo.html
@GarageGear awesome that's exactly my problem, what's really annoying it's a brand new I got it last February and used it for literally half an hour.
I'll work on it tomorrow 🙂
Thanks 🙏
Nothing is more annoying than a surging engine 😁. I dont know how many I fixed of them. Great job JB 👍🏻
right on my friend! If you ever want to come by we can clean them together!
Excellent vid, well bought and that was surgery just getting to that carb. Seems like Ariens LCT engine carbs are more accessible.
@@cardo1111 hey cardo I would agree. Ariens carbs are more accessible. This one was buried. Thanks for watching my friend
Awesome video, Thanks JB! Hope Christmas was very Merry for you and that you and family will have a wonderful Happy New Year! ❤
Same to you, Chris! Happy New Year to you and your family as well!
@@GarageGear ❤
i have a cub cadet 528swe snowblower, it runs fine the problem i have is that the choke knob keeps falling down to full choke and i have to keep putting the choke up until it falls down again with the vibration of the snowblower. any thoughts?
Hey Jenna the choke dial basically connects to your carburetor. Sounds like there is a problem with a linkage there. In the mean time, once you get it started some duct tape may hold it in place while you use it. You could do this until you can get it to a repair shop. 👍 hope this helps you out
@@GarageGear thanks
Great job I have the same problem but there is no way I can take it apart and put it back together
It can be tough to do! Sometimes you just have to start taking things apart to fix the issue. I always take pictures so you could start there.
Enjoyed the video, you are a good teacher. Ethanol free for me
Appreciate it, John!
I have a Snow King 27” 9 hp tecumseh. The problem is am having is when I engage the auger and get into the snow. The augers stop. What is my problem???? Appreciate any help on this. Thanks
@@shawnmcilroy4929 hey shawn, I would check your Auger bill to make sure there’s not too much slack in it and add some tension if needed. I would also check your gearbox to make sure that the gears are not stripped. Check those first and let me know.
Okay, I will do those checks. I will get to you on my findings. Thank you for the insight to a start.
Thanks 👍
That would probably coat you 4 to $500.00 at the service department. I have to admit it is very good engineering.
@@stanleyhasting6047 thanks for sharing
I have a 2 stage cub. Those engine covers are a huge pita! The one facing the operator on. I’ve is plastic, so I ended up just cutting some tabs with a dremel to make room for a filter and shutoff valve. I also cut a couple tabs so you DON’T have to take the chute off! Huge difference.
Man, we have to hang out sometime. We can make some snowblower monsters if we put our minds to it!
We can only get ethanol free fuel in a can now and here at Eliminator Performance we use the B&S Kinetix alkylate fuel for storage, prior to B&S manufacturing their own brand we were purchasing Aspen alkylate fuel from them. Our 91 Octane has been testing out at 5% ethanol and we treat all our pump fuel with BGSC2 stabiliser which we recently checked for ethanol jellification after storage in our pressure washer for a time period of 6+ months. Result NO ethanol issues as is the case when we were using K100S+ which is made in Jamestown NY i believe. Up until 2023 we always were able to get ethanol free fuel and using the K100S+ stabiliser we had no issues firing up either Winter or Spring style equipment. We switched over to the BG line since many of our automotive shops highly recommend this product. Just a tip for your viewers keep carb sprays away from any rubber materials on your carbs many cause rubber breakdown, swelling and in some cases total destruction (which is the case with brake cleaner especially).
Appreciate all this information, Wayne! Hope you guys have a happy new year up there!
Hey JB, great video man. I’m a new subscriber and I have a White Outdoor snowblower with a Tecumseh engine that is in need of a carb clean. Do you have a video of one of those machines? TIA!
Thanks for following along. I do not have a video on that, but the principles are not very different so one of the carb cleaning videos I have may help you. Some adjustments may need to be made though.
I swear Engineers set out to discourage do-it-yourselfers during the design stage! I use ethanol, + stabilizer's during the season then drain it come spring. I never had an issue. Unsure why people argue the 'I just treat mine' issue. It's been proved over and over again it doesn't work. Great video JB.
Hey Swampy. Hope you’re having a good weekend, buddy! I hear the old “I stabilized it” statement over and over again. Yet people call me because their snowblower won’t run right. Thanks for watching as always my friend
@@GarageGear They also believe the earth is flat. 🤣
@@swampyankee72 hahaha they definitely do! 😂
THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO
@@EnthusiasticTruck-xh7ss thanks for watching bud
Ive fixed many of those blowers with that engine. Have now figured its easier to put a new $12 carb on. what happens if you put it all back together and it still doesnt run correctly.
Sometimes those cheaper carbs aren’t bored out correctly
Great tutorial, JB!
Thanks, Bruce! Hope it helps!
I used to run ethanol free fuel (premium) in all of my toys and tools until they started adding ethanol to it. Now I am screwed and have to rely on stabilizers as I have no other alternative. I did learn how to remove ethanol from gas but then it also reduces octain. I have the exact same snowblower but a craftsman and encountered surging where I had to use the choke a bit. I only removed the float bowl, main jet and defuser. They were in mint condition so did a cleaning of them and it runs a bit better. May have to do a detailed cleaning this summer. I also make sure I strain the fuel for impurities. Great video.
Hey Larry one stabilizer I have heard good things about is ethanol shield. Perhaps it can help you out. Thanks for sharing
i run non ethanol fuel AND I add Stabil to it. Guaranteed zero fuel issues!!
@@jeffgriffith7003 thanks for sharing jeff
Do you have the link for that green flex thing you use for your gas and oil
@@buffalobmf hey Buffalo here’s the link my friend! Definitely a handy tool! amzn.to/3DugyfW
@@GarageGear thank you!
What does it mean when it first comes under load the rpms drop suddenly buy them comes back up to speed?
@@ScanMan1967 hey scan when you place a load on the engine you make it work harder. And if the carb isn’t clean and running rough it will bog down and/or die out.
I have a landscape business and I use 87-octane without stabilizer because at the end of the session, I drain the gas and never leave gas in the tank for over 28 days and it has worked do not know if I should change to nonethical or keep with the 87
I would go to non ethanol if you can
Im convinced they put some bolts in some places just to mess with us DIYers! lol
@@BigDaddysGarage I agree
@@BigDaddysGarage I agree! It’s like they don’t want us getting in there lol! Happy new year Flint!
I always pull those external pilot jets and clean them FIRST, before committing to pulling the carb. 80 percent of the time, it's the pilot jet that is clogged, especially on Honda engines. It'll save yourself a lot of work.
Appreciate you sharing this with the community, George. Thank you!
Have you tried changing the friction wheel on this cub cadet in this video with the trigger steering? No DIY'er vids on this topic.
Hey huna mine operates fine at the moment so haven’t needed to change it. Perhaps I could do a video on it
Great video JB. Stay warm my friend 🙏👍🙏👍
Appreciate you! You too! Have a Happy New Year!
When you blowdry the fuelline on the carb isn’t there a risk that the needleseat blows out? 🤔
@@bjornsparf271 nope not on this one. No rubber gasket inside the carb. The needle on the float has a neoprene head. A lot of newer carbs are like this
Thanks
Thanks for watching alan
No ethanol in my small engines here.... sorry to go off topic, but what is your opinion of the 3 stage vs. 2 stage.... from videos I have watched of 3 stage snow blowers in action, they don't seem to perform any better than a 2 stage.
That's a great question! I've been using a 2 stage for years, but I plan to compare the 3x to the Ariens and we will see which one throws better. More to come on that.
I find ethanol free fuel and a stabilizer like PRI-G works well, especially when fuel is periodically rotated.
Thanks for sharing!
I just checked your link for “ethanol free near me” in New England? There isn’t any gas stations near me. I would have to travel over an hour to find one. I can however find VP Racing fuel in 5 gallon cans close by. But that is not affordable at about $80 for 5 gallons.
Maybe near you it’s easier to find? But not near me. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@johnclyne6350 thanks for sharing john
I just drain my gas and drain carb to put away for summer, never leave gas in anything over a long time, if not using
Draining the carb is probably the most important thing one can do.
Good tip! Thanks for sharing!