We asked, you delivered! A perfect explanation, full of examples that shows everything we need to know to start getting even better results from the 3 different sliders, particularly by using frequency knowledge to use the masks for best effect. Absolutely brilliant. Thank you!
Excellent job with bringing clarity to those of us waning to take our Lightroom skills beyond over utilizing global adjustments. THANKS for the thoughtfulness and time you put into this video.
Great video very nicely done. Instead of scrolling up and down on your side panels, I would suggest putting them into solo mode right click in a dark gray area and choose solo mode.
I think your description of “contrast” is backwards. You describe high contrast as having lots of range between the higher and lower pixel values and low contrast as having only a little range between light and dark. I believe the opposite is true. High contrast images in the extreme are “bi-stable”, where the transition between white and black is very abrupt (low dynamic range), whereas low contrast images have many gray levels in between white and black, or a lot of dynamic range. Generally speaking, the difference between high and low contrast settings in the developer module is not a change in dynamic range, but rather a change in the image transfer function (AKA, “gamma curve” or “log compression curve” or “S-curve)”.
Your use of the term 'Dynamic range' is incorrect. Dynamic range is the difference between the brightest part and the darkest part of an image, nothing to do with how quickly that change happens. A simple silhouette image will classically be high dynamic range as will a sunset (the very bright sun and the dark foreground). If you zoom into a high contrast border to (lets say) 50 pixels, on the left you may have bright white, on the right dark black (ie high dynamic range in that sector). An 50-pixel sector of an area with gradual change will likely have 2 shades of grey on either end, low dynamic range). Equally, you can have a high contrast image with gradual transitions ) and chairoscuro images (paintings and photographs) is a typical example. Ansel Adams spent ages developing his photographs to do just this to create a sense of depth.
Very good video for spelling out the definitions of these sliders. Educating us on the frequency in which those sliders operates, certainly does give us the ability to make better choices depending on where you are editing within the image. I'm not sure if I explain myself very well, but in my head it makes sense. Thank you so much Brian.
Great job!! I have listened to your videos previously and they are excellent but this one demystified LR functions that I had been using but didn’t really understand. Very helpful!
Thank you Brian for this concise explanation and use of these important adjustment sliders. The last couple of years have seen some radical changes from Adobe. Thank you for taking the time to explain the new tools and how they impact our images. 😊
Thanks Brian. Is your Adobe Lightroom Editing Masterclass no longer available? The FAQs of the Lightroom Everywhere has a link to it that goes to a page not found and I was interested in seeing what is offered in that course since it focuses on Classic. Thx!
Hey Rodney, thanks so much for reaching out about my Lightroom Classic course and for reminding me that I linked to it in the FAQ of my Lightroom Everywhere course. I ended up retiring the Classic course for two reasons: 1. I hadn't updated it in years and didn't feel right charging people for old content. 2. I decided a year ago to focus exclusively on Lightroom Cloud (Desktop/Mobile/Web), so I didn't want to convolute things by offering content on Classic, knowing that it's not something I'd actively support. That's why I chose to remove it from my store, and I've also removed the reference to it in the Lightroom Everywhere FAQ. Again, I really do appreciate your interest in it, but it just wouldn't be right to offer it given how outdated it is.
That's a really excellent question! The short answer is YES! You can absolutely configure the Color Calibration sliders to taste and save it as a preset, which will be accessible in LR Mobile. The two downsides that I've seen during my testing are: 1. obviously you can't further adjust the calibration sliders on mobile after applying the preset (although it will apply) and 2. the preset doesn't have the "Amount" slider control, which could let you dial down the strength. It may be a limitation of including the color calibration sliders in a preset. Still, that's a great idea.
@@brianmatiash check this out I watched another TH-camr I wish I could remember his name. He said adjust the blue to 100. Then use the hsl of each color to adjust to taste. Why? Because blue affects every color in the spectrum. So on desktop that’s what I do. Now knowing this I can set the preset the same then just use the Hsl’s to adjust. Try it and see what you think I be interested to know your perspective
Tip for viewers. Try using negative clarity and compensatewith texture for cleaner and softer look. Clarity gives muddy results especialy for skin if it is not Your look you are going for.
HI: I only use LR classic on Desktop. I clicked on the masterclass for light room classic but the link says there is nothing there. Can you let me know if you still offer that course? or maybe send me a correct link for LRC masterclass
Hi Brian, How do you print using Lightroom? Not the classic. I bought a printer and I had to use Lightroom Classic for printing. Maybe can be a video topic.
EXCELLENT VIDEO! I used to lean heavily on Clarity, but now I find Texture is the better way to go..thanks for your tips...
Fantastic explanation 🎉
We asked, you delivered! A perfect explanation, full of examples that shows everything we need to know to start getting even better results from the 3 different sliders, particularly by using frequency knowledge to use the masks for best effect. Absolutely brilliant. Thank you!
👍👌
BTW, this was the best explanation of Frequency I've heard. I've never understood what that term meant (for 3 years). Now I do. THANKS!
Excellent job with bringing clarity to those of us waning to take our Lightroom skills beyond over utilizing global adjustments. THANKS for the thoughtfulness and time you put into this video.
Great video very nicely done. Instead of scrolling up and down on your side panels, I would suggest putting them into solo mode right click in a dark gray area and choose solo mode.
This is a fantastic video Brian! Simple explanations with perfect examples. Thankyou.
@@madmick19811 My pleasure!
I love your content, I struggle with all of this and I am learning so much from you as a new photographer. You have yourself a new subscriber
I think your description of “contrast” is backwards. You describe high contrast as having lots of range between the higher and lower pixel values and low contrast as having only a little range between light and dark. I believe the opposite is true. High contrast images in the extreme are “bi-stable”, where the transition between white and black is very abrupt (low dynamic range), whereas low contrast images have many gray levels in between white and black, or a lot of dynamic range. Generally speaking, the difference between high and low contrast settings in the developer module is not a change in dynamic range, but rather a change in the image transfer function (AKA, “gamma curve” or “log compression curve” or “S-curve)”.
Your use of the term 'Dynamic range' is incorrect. Dynamic range is the difference between the brightest part and the darkest part of an image, nothing to do with how quickly that change happens. A simple silhouette image will classically be high dynamic range as will a sunset (the very bright sun and the dark foreground). If you zoom into a high contrast border to (lets say) 50 pixels, on the left you may have bright white, on the right dark black (ie high dynamic range in that sector). An 50-pixel sector of an area with gradual change will likely have 2 shades of grey on either end, low dynamic range).
Equally, you can have a high contrast image with gradual transitions ) and chairoscuro images (paintings and photographs) is a typical example. Ansel Adams spent ages developing his photographs to do just this to create a sense of depth.
this video has so much value its crazy thank you
My pleasure!
Thank you, I understood much more now. It has moved me from just playing with sliders until it looks good. More deliberate editing!!! 😊❤
Very good video for spelling out the definitions of these sliders. Educating us on the frequency in which those sliders operates, certainly does give us the ability to make better choices depending on where you are editing within the image. I'm not sure if I explain myself very well, but in my head it makes sense. Thank you so much Brian.
I totally get what you're saying, Jeff. And, as always, I am grateful for your compliment!
Great job!! I have listened to your videos previously and they are excellent but this one demystified LR functions that I had been using but didn’t really understand. Very helpful!
Excellent! A very clear explanation of how they work. I'll make good use of these tips on my next project. Thanks Brian!
Great help thanks a lot
Excellent tutorial! I am brand new to Lightroom, this is so helpful. Off to watch more of your tutorials!
Well done. Great examples of how each tool works.
Thank you Brian for this concise explanation and use of these important adjustment sliders. The last couple of years have seen some radical changes from Adobe. Thank you for taking the time to explain the new tools and how they impact our images. 😊
Another great explanation. Up until now, I always wondered what the difference was. Now I know. Thank you Brian.
Crazily helpful and really well-explained, thanks man
Very well presented… Worthwhile watching!
Thanks so much!
Very good instructional on those three sliders Brian! It served as a great refresher for me, thanks!
Great demonstration, helped me immensely. TY
Thank you a great explanation
Thanx for this very informative video
Excellent descriptions
Fantastic video Brian. This helps me a lot!
Excellent tutorial Brian, thank you.
Thanks, great explanation.
such a detailed teaching
an excellent tutorial - well and easily explained - full of clarity :)
Thank you Brian, very helpful tips, your vids are great ❤
Thanks Brian. Is your Adobe Lightroom Editing Masterclass no longer available? The FAQs of the Lightroom Everywhere has a link to it that goes to a page not found and I was interested in seeing what is offered in that course since it focuses on Classic. Thx!
Hey Rodney, thanks so much for reaching out about my Lightroom Classic course and for reminding me that I linked to it in the FAQ of my Lightroom Everywhere course.
I ended up retiring the Classic course for two reasons:
1. I hadn't updated it in years and didn't feel right charging people for old content.
2. I decided a year ago to focus exclusively on Lightroom Cloud (Desktop/Mobile/Web), so I didn't want to convolute things by offering content on Classic, knowing that it's not something I'd actively support.
That's why I chose to remove it from my store, and I've also removed the reference to it in the Lightroom Everywhere FAQ. Again, I really do appreciate your interest in it, but it just wouldn't be right to offer it given how outdated it is.
Awesome explanation! Thank you!
Great tutorial learned a few things I didn't know. I presume that the same applies to Camera Raw in Photoshop.
Thank you! Great explanation
Great video again! Off subject. Do you think you can use calibration on the desktop save a preset and it work for the iPad?
That's a really excellent question! The short answer is YES! You can absolutely configure the Color Calibration sliders to taste and save it as a preset, which will be accessible in LR Mobile. The two downsides that I've seen during my testing are: 1. obviously you can't further adjust the calibration sliders on mobile after applying the preset (although it will apply) and 2. the preset doesn't have the "Amount" slider control, which could let you dial down the strength. It may be a limitation of including the color calibration sliders in a preset. Still, that's a great idea.
@@brianmatiash check this out I watched another TH-camr I wish I could remember his name. He said adjust the blue to 100. Then use the hsl of each color to adjust to taste. Why? Because blue affects every color in the spectrum. So on desktop that’s what I do. Now knowing this I can set the preset the same then just use the Hsl’s to adjust. Try it and see what you think I be interested to know your perspective
Nicely done, Brian - thanks man!
Seriously excellent video. Thanks.
Thankyou Brian great video
Good explanation 🙏
Thank you!
Excellent video thank you!
Thank you so much for the video!!!👍👍👍
Thank you Brian 👍
once again, awesome job. 😀🙌🏽
Thanks Brian.
Is that the Grist Mill in Woodland, WA?
This was excellent!
EX ce lent video !! big thanx from CHile !!!
Excellent thank you
Tip for viewers. Try using negative clarity and compensatewith texture for cleaner and softer look. Clarity gives muddy results especialy for skin if it is not Your look you are going for.
Very helpful. Thx
Very useful video, however, I think you mis-spoke at the 7:00 mark where you said '100% Contrast, and I believe you meant Clarity, Right?
Yup! Great catch! Thanks for letting me know, Michael. 👍👍
HI: I only use LR classic on Desktop. I clicked on the masterclass for light room classic but the link says there is nothing there. Can you let me know if you still offer that course? or maybe send me a correct link for LRC masterclass
Hi Brian,
How do you print using Lightroom? Not the classic.
I bought a printer and I had to use Lightroom Classic for printing.
Maybe can be a video topic.
Hey Rad, Lightroom doesn't have printing support. You'd have to export the image and use a different app to handle that.
Excellent !
Thanks for sharing