cont.... additionally I am installing the wires to the panel. Right now there is a 220a breaker in the box and it is hooked up manually to the pump 200' down in the well. I walk over and pull up the breaker and the well is wired direct and comes on instantly. How do I wire the float switch into the well's wiring to where anytime the breaker is in the on position and the water is low it will turn on and off the power to the well pump. Then when the breaker is turned off...the well will not come on and tank could run dry if I so desired? Tks
Help me out here. Doing same, or about to tackle this project. Problem? I have a 275g IBC tote black in color too and have a well at 200' that is a low producing well. I can not run the pump for more than 7-8 mins at 10 gal a min. or she will run dry. Then takes hour or so and can do it again. (refill rate) Soooo, I need for this float switch to be installed in such a manner that it of course does not come on every time a few gallons is drawn off but maybe 50 gallons. So, what do I do, have that flow at the very top of the tank and 12" or so to the float or put it to where the float and the switch are a few feet apart? My fear is if I don't get it on right...the water will be drawn off say a few feet down before pump comes on and pump will run dry before tote is filled to the top again..... Is it that simple...at whatever level you suspend the float at, that that is where the water level will be....and what ever level the end of the line switch can fall to is where the switch will kick on the pump?
Sounds like you have multiple things going on here! I must preface this with a caveat - I am not an expert, take anything I say with a pinch of salt! With the float switch, the water level is dictated by the distance from the stopper/weight to the float. When it comes to running the well dry you could timer to the plug which will slow things down significantly (on for 5 minutes off for 10 minutes), the float switch will be the primary control and timer will be the secondary, I'm sure the well pump will have overheat/run dry cut off, this will be the tertiary level of protection. HTH
Brown isn't earth. You use blue or brown depending if you are filling or emptying the tank. You just cut off the one you don't use. No harm done though.🙂
Please the float switch works in two way, thus filling the tank using the blue cable with the black cable or emptying the tank using the brown cable with the black cable. The black cable is common to all of them...
2 hrs slumming on YT looking for an actual working example of how this switch works from a mechanical point of view. Thank you.
Great video , black is common . Your brown isn't earth . It's normally open and your blue is normally closed.
cont.... additionally I am installing the wires to the panel. Right now there is a 220a breaker in the box and it is hooked up manually to the pump 200' down in the well. I walk over and pull up the breaker and the well is wired direct and comes on instantly. How do I wire the float switch into the well's wiring to where anytime the breaker is in the on position and the water is low it will turn on and off the power to the well pump. Then when the breaker is turned off...the well will not come on and tank could run dry if I so desired? Tks
Help me out here. Doing same, or about to tackle this project. Problem? I have a 275g IBC tote black in color too and have a well at 200' that is a low producing well. I can not run the pump for more than 7-8 mins at 10 gal a min. or she will run dry. Then takes hour or so and can do it again. (refill rate) Soooo, I need for this float switch to be installed in such a manner that it of course does not come on every time a few gallons is drawn off but maybe 50 gallons. So, what do I do, have that flow at the very top of the tank and 12" or so to the float or put it to where the float and the switch are a few feet apart? My fear is if I don't get it on right...the water will be drawn off say a few feet down before pump comes on and pump will run dry before tote is filled to the top again..... Is it that simple...at whatever level you suspend the float at, that that is where the water level will be....and what ever level the end of the line switch can fall to is where the switch will kick on the pump?
Sounds like you have multiple things going on here! I must preface this with a caveat - I am not an expert, take anything I say with a pinch of salt! With the float switch, the water level is dictated by the distance from the stopper/weight to the float. When it comes to running the well dry you could timer to the plug which will slow things down significantly (on for 5 minutes off for 10 minutes), the float switch will be the primary control and timer will be the secondary, I'm sure the well pump will have overheat/run dry cut off, this will be the tertiary level of protection. HTH
This is very educative, thanks for sharing it with us
Brown isn't earth. You use blue or brown depending if you are filling or emptying the tank. You just cut off the one you don't use. No harm done though.🙂
👍🏿
Please what relation has the yellow cylindrical object has with the float... Thanks
Please what's the name of the strapping tool you are using...
the brown is different type of connection not earthing wire
you should disconnect it and keep it isolated.
Please the float switch works in two way, thus filling the tank using the blue cable with the black cable or emptying the tank using the brown cable with the black cable. The black cable is common to all of them...
Did you just connect the brown to earth??
woopsie... isn't the brown cable used to reverse the function of the switch? it should be insulated if not used, right?
It's been about a year now. Did you have any issues? Any upgrades?
Hey @Korgan, no issues! It's been a dream. I will do a follow up video, thanks for watching 😁
Great job! 😁
Awsome!
amizing
😢 Brown not earth. Poor guy working on it after you will get nasty shock. 😂
Those switches is pretty useless as you cannot utilize your tanks full capacity