Brilliant video on building a Voron, i have seen so many videos but yours is outstanding because you speak to the point and do not make the video unnecessarily long like others. No offence to others but watching 3-4hr live streams with all the chatting distraction simply breaks my line of thought. I would love to see you build a Voron Legacy sometime in the future, I know it is not the best one to build but we'll that is where everything started 😀. Thank You for your hardwork 🙏
I'm sourcing my own parts. I wish someone would go more in depth about parts and explain some differences about the printed variations. I almost ordered parts that were incompatible, and some part details I nearly overlooked. Kits are worry free but that kinda takes the fun out of the diy project. so far I've spent 1/2 as much and was able to upgrade some things. got the bbt octo pro, with steppers, and their pi for 100. Great video thanks for showing everything!
I sourced the parts myself for voron switchwire and voron 2.4. I followed the excel sheet provided by vorondesign and it was all good for the mechanical parts. For these 2 printers I went with Misumi profiles and voron has specified the exact references to order. Regarding the electronics go withe the most recent and powerful boards, you will figure out how to set the klipper configuration based on board specifics and pins layout and by looking at existing configurations for older boards. Btw on my voron 2.4 I am still using 2 old SKR 1.3 boards and I dont see any performance issues compared to the Octopus in the Trident. Save from the inductive probe and go with klicky -very reliable and good enough. Personally I would never install the Tap because it is too heavy.
Another awesome project Ivan! You did a fantastic job and it looks great! I'm sourcing parts for a Trident build currently and am looking forward to the build. Thanks for the inspiration!
Thanks for creating this video, i've used this video as a reference for my trident build. I notice you have a purge line before printing, i've tried using KAMP to perform this but without success, can you confirm how you setup your purge line? Thanks
Hi, Thank you for this video. Can you please tell me how long are your F and G extrusions that are holding hotbed. I think there is something wrong with mine and I would like to check ( 300 build ) Thank you
Nice build. I overall like the design of the printer but I am not a fan of the electronics compartment. I would probably stick the electronics into an external controller box together with a quiet fan. What chamber temperatures did you get on that 28h?
@@3dpblog These are some nice temperatures. I am planning on building a printer that reaches a 90° C chamber temperature for printing some high temp filaments. With insulation and a little bit of active heating a Voron might get there.
@@hbgl8889 I use active heater in my CR10 enclosure. There is video on my channel for it. I reach 80C. In the standard voron design though there is no space for installing an active heater.
@@3dpblog Yeah, there is a fair bit of customization that needs to go into a Voron to have it reliably run at 90° C chamber temperature. 60° C is already pushing the limits of that hotend fan and extruder stepper motor just going by the datasheet.
I have a question regarding the heatbead, since it has such a high thermal mass, how long does it actually take to heat up to like 100°C from normal ambient temperature (~20°C)? And does it get even longer with bigger bed size? Thanks
I have the max_power for the hotbed set to 0.5, in order to avoid very fast heating, that may deform the bed progressively. It heats to 105 C for 8 min.
Great vid! And sorry if I missed it, but what are the total dimensions for that 250x250? Trying to find out if it will fit on my desk instead of my Artillery Genius.
300 x 300 bed this one. Total external WxD is 46x46cm or 18x18" . When the spool holder is mounted on the back it is 56cm deep (22") and if your desk is next to a wall you need anoter 10cm space on the back to be able to insert the spool. It fits fine on my 75 cm deep desk.
Great video. I am trying to upgrade from ender 3 to Voron printer in terms of build and printer quality; which one do you recommend, Switchwire or Trident? Now that you have built both in the channel and used it.
Both are fine. The Switchwire is my favorite, because it is cheaper to build, delivers excellent quality and is easy to work with and maintain. The Trident is also great printer, but 500 usd more for nearly same quality. You will see difference in performance only on tall prints, where the moving bed has its limitations. Btw you can convert you ender3 to switchwire - check the user mods on voron github.
Amazing video,thanks to share it with us. What about the Omron probe? Is it enough use red termal silicon against the high temperature from hotend ? Have you drift with Omron during bed mesh leveling? Thanks again
Some are sticking aluminum folio on the probe to reflect the heat. Myself, i believe ht silicone is better, because it is not metal and wont interfere with probe operation. I used this on my Voron 2.4 after replacing 2 omron probes and the 3rd one survived. I replaced it eventualy with the klicky probe, but it was still operational. What do you mean by drift? The silicone is just on the front side, the one facing the hotend. There is very thin layer on the bottom also, that is not needed for protection - just to have red the red color.
@@3dpblog thank you very much for your prompt reply. drift I meant as precision of the Omron sensor compared to the red economy version or the klicky. Thanks again for your support
@@lorenzo220580 I run the Omron probe at 0.006 mm accuracy or 0.01 if I want faster probing without many retries to reach the 0.006 accurracy. The clicky probe on the 2.4 is at 0.03 mm accuracy for fast probing, and though it seems 3 times worse accuracy it gives also perfect first layer. Myself I dont perform bed mesh, because the build plates on the 2.4 and the Trident are flat as per the Voron standards (less than 0.1 mm deviation)
I haven't tested this yet. I print mainly ABS with 80mm/s max. I think it should manage printing PLA at 300mm/s with 5K acceleration. Limit is the part cooling I guess. The standard part cooling fan is weak at such speed and you'll need to apply a mod or use external fan.
Wow that is amazing print quality. How hard is it to do this build versus other vorons? I'm nowhere near ready for a build but would like to in the future.
No need IMHO. There is no force applied there, nor it's a termistor to care about the impedence. And if the thermal fuse fails, it will be easier to replace it.
Brilliant video on building a Voron, i have seen so many videos but yours is outstanding because you speak to the point and do not make the video unnecessarily long like others. No offence to others but watching 3-4hr live streams with all the chatting distraction simply breaks my line of thought. I would love to see you build a Voron Legacy sometime in the future, I know it is not the best one to build but we'll that is where everything started 😀. Thank You for your hardwork 🙏
great video, very VERY helpful!!
Thanks for sharing all this work 👏
I'm sourcing my own parts. I wish someone would go more in depth about parts and explain some differences about the printed variations. I almost ordered parts that were incompatible, and some part details I nearly overlooked. Kits are worry free but that kinda takes the fun out of the diy project. so far I've spent 1/2 as much and was able to upgrade some things. got the bbt octo pro, with steppers, and their pi for 100. Great video thanks for showing everything!
I sourced the parts myself for voron switchwire and voron 2.4. I followed the excel sheet provided by vorondesign and it was all good for the mechanical parts. For these 2 printers I went with Misumi profiles and voron has specified the exact references to order. Regarding the electronics go withe the most recent and powerful boards, you will figure out how to set the klipper configuration based on board specifics and pins layout and by looking at existing configurations for older boards. Btw on my voron 2.4 I am still using 2 old SKR 1.3 boards and I dont see any performance issues compared to the Octopus in the Trident.
Save from the inductive probe and go with klicky -very reliable and good enough. Personally I would never install the Tap because it is too heavy.
Great video, now I’m (almost) ready for build my one :)
Good luck, it is easy build, just time consuming.
very nice color combinaton on the printer!
awesome! I have been waiting for news on this kit, nice job
Really good video well done
Another awesome project Ivan! You did a fantastic job and it looks great! I'm sourcing parts for a Trident build currently and am looking forward to the build. Thanks for the inspiration!
Does this have auto leveling?? Looking to upgrade from my kingroon
Great Video :) Did you do a build video like this for the Voron 2.4?
Thanks for creating this video, i've used this video as a reference for my trident build. I notice you have a purge line before printing, i've tried using KAMP to perform this but without success, can you confirm how you setup your purge line? Thanks
Hi, the purge line is in the Print_start code (probably you figured it out till now). Check the printer.cfg for the trident on Voron github.
@@3dpblog Thanks mate,, i got KAMP working in the end with adaptive mesh and voron purge ;-)
Nice work @3dp blog, can you help with your printer.cfg code file?
Hi,
Thank you for this video.
Can you please tell me how long are your F and G extrusions that are holding hotbed.
I think there is something wrong with mine and I would like to check ( 300 build )
Thank you
Which is better, Boron 2.4 or Trident version? Please comment briefly.
'Cause I'm worried too
Of course, the Trident version seems to be stable.
What is the total weight of the voron trident kit box? This trident weighs more than a voron 2.4?
The kit in its packaging was 20.5 kg. I dont think it is havier than a 2.4, but very similar.
Nice build. I overall like the design of the printer but I am not a fan of the electronics compartment. I would probably stick the electronics into an external controller box together with a quiet fan. What chamber temperatures did you get on that 28h?
~60 C inside at 105 bed and at 18 C room temperature. In the summer should go up.
@@3dpblog These are some nice temperatures. I am planning on building a printer that reaches a 90° C chamber temperature for printing some high temp filaments. With insulation and a little bit of active heating a Voron might get there.
@@hbgl8889 I use active heater in my CR10 enclosure. There is video on my channel for it. I reach 80C.
In the standard voron design though there is no space for installing an active heater.
@@3dpblog Yeah, there is a fair bit of customization that needs to go into a Voron to have it reliably run at 90° C chamber temperature. 60° C is already pushing the limits of that hotend fan and extruder stepper motor just going by the datasheet.
@@hbgl8889 well, the motors from this kit on top - exruder, A and B drives are HT, rated up to 180 C, so they can take it :)
I have a question regarding the heatbead, since it has such a high thermal mass, how long does it actually take to heat up to like 100°C from normal ambient temperature (~20°C)? And does it get even longer with bigger bed size? Thanks
I have the max_power for the hotbed set to 0.5, in order to avoid very fast heating, that may deform the bed progressively. It heats to 105 C for 8 min.
Bigger beds have bigger power silicone heaters. Should be similar
Great vid!
And sorry if I missed it, but what are the total dimensions for that 250x250? Trying to find out if it will fit on my desk instead of my Artillery Genius.
300 x 300 bed this one. Total external WxD is 46x46cm or 18x18" . When the spool holder is mounted on the back it is 56cm deep (22") and if your desk is next to a wall you need anoter 10cm space on the back to be able to insert the spool. It fits fine on my 75 cm deep desk.
@@3dpblog Thank you very much for your time and reply!
Link to pulley gage please?
Sorry, I don't understand what this is abt. What pulley gage?
@@3dpblog For aligning gear on drive motor please..
@@HReality github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Trident/blob/main/STLs/Tools/AB_pulley_jig.stl
Great video. I am trying to upgrade from ender 3 to Voron printer in terms of build and printer quality; which one do you recommend, Switchwire or Trident? Now that you have built both in the channel and used it.
Both are fine. The Switchwire is my favorite, because it is cheaper to build, delivers excellent quality and is easy to work with and maintain. The Trident is also great printer, but 500 usd more for nearly same quality. You will see difference in performance only on tall prints, where the moving bed has its limitations. Btw you can convert you ender3 to switchwire - check the user mods on voron github.
@@3dpblog Thanks for the info.
Exelent
Amazing video,thanks to share it with us.
What about the Omron probe?
Is it enough use red termal silicon against the high temperature from hotend ?
Have you drift with Omron during bed mesh leveling?
Thanks again
Some are sticking aluminum folio on the probe to reflect the heat. Myself, i believe ht silicone is better, because it is not metal and wont interfere with probe operation. I used this on my Voron 2.4 after replacing 2 omron probes and the 3rd one survived. I replaced it eventualy with the klicky probe, but it was still operational.
What do you mean by drift? The silicone is just on the front side, the one facing the hotend. There is very thin layer on the bottom also, that is not needed for protection - just to have red the red color.
@@3dpblog thank you very much for your prompt reply. drift I meant as precision of the Omron sensor compared to the red economy version or the klicky.
Thanks again for your support
@@lorenzo220580 I run the Omron probe at 0.006 mm accuracy or 0.01 if I want faster probing without many retries to reach the 0.006 accurracy. The clicky probe on the 2.4 is at 0.03 mm accuracy for fast probing, and though it seems 3 times worse accuracy it gives also perfect first layer.
Myself I dont perform bed mesh, because the build plates on the 2.4 and the Trident are flat as per the Voron standards (less than 0.1 mm deviation)
@@3dpblog thanks a lot for your answer.
Va bene va bene , ho capito, iscritto canale eccezionale
How fast is it?
I haven't tested this yet. I print mainly ABS with 80mm/s max. I think it should manage printing PLA at 300mm/s with 5K acceleration. Limit is the part cooling I guess. The standard part cooling fan is weak at such speed and you'll need to apply a mod or use external fan.
This is a better printer than the 2.4 but everyone is building the 2.4
Genuine hiwin rails , lol that's funny
Wow that is amazing print quality. How hard is it to do this build versus other vorons? I'm nowhere near ready for a build but would like to in the future.
ANyone with a brain with most cells working can do it easily , just time consuming . so basically whites only
Would have preferred stainless or plated rather than self colour bolts. They will go rusty after awhile.
wtf, solder that shit.
No need IMHO. There is no force applied there, nor it's a termistor to care about the impedence. And if the thermal fuse fails, it will be easier to replace it.