To anyone wanting to do this, please do NOT use electrical tape like in the video. This is fine for prototyping but the tape will come off the board with heat and time and allow any extra liquid metal to flow onto critical components. Please use something like ASI 388 or another electronics grade silicone to do this job. I have used it successfully on a LM reapplication in my 2021 Zephyrus G15 which had a poor OEM LM application from stock and had very high temps. The silicone creates a barrier and a seal between the motherboard/components and the heatsink so that LM cannot escape.
Which would you recomend? I only know great big cartriges id trust, but using like 2g from ~300g is just not my goal... My other idea would be foam tape which seems to work with temps up to maybe 150° without any issue (plus it would suck up any excess) but yea...
@@nxy6123 I used ASA 388 but there are other brands out there as well. Just make sure it's electrics grade which ensures that the catalyst and other components of the sealant aren't corrosive. I used Silver King brand liquid metal since the Thermal Grizzly brand was in short supply last year and was selling at scalpers prices. The Silver King stuff worked just fine and my Zephyrus G15 has been performing very well and staying cool since reapplying the LM a year ago.
You can actually notice once it got hotter that the older version was ~90 degrees on the CPU and the liquid metal stayed at 83 degrees, not to mention the 1200 rpm difference!
Not worth the risk but fun video! I actually might try this when someone creates a custom heatsink supporting liquid metal and a proper guard rail. Shouldn't be too hard especially if a custom back side is provided.
nail polish of the acrylic variety works quite well and insulates components. there is proper stuff to use but you can find used nail polish at your local store.
When applying liquid metal if you clean the chip using IPA first it'll apply much easier. I also recommend using the metal syringe tip and lightly scraping the die to make it apply easier
Especially with Playstation 5 console that uses it - the APU is nearly unusable with regular thermal paste, it would just overheat with it, so liquid metal thermal paste is used here to keep a rather powerful APU from melting.
i had to change my liquid metal every 6 months or so with my gigabyte aero 15.. it was so annoying. it would keep seeping into the copper heatsink and the temperatures were higher than before.
I'm thinking of trying Honeywell's PTM7950 pads since it looks like it get's pretty close to liquid metal performance without the potential of destroying your device.
I still wouldn't recommend liquid metal like this in a portable system because you walk, run, jump and whatever with it in your backpack or whatever and that may make the liquid metal to really get everywhere. If you make some proper isolation then it would be fine.
LM have big tension when u sandwich it beetwen soc and heatsink. It doesnt go anywhere. Just use some electrical grade silicon or general purpose varnish for pcb and u will be fine, nothing to worry about
@@SkeltherBot there will always be a bit outside of the CPU\GPU\SOC die and with a lot of shaking that thing can eventually get all over the place. And sure you can cover the PCB but on something that you shake a lot it could look like a explosion of liquid metal happened inside specially if applied a lot and I don't think anyone would want to cover almost the entire PCB to protect against LM.
@@guily6669 it doesnt go anywhere because of tension. I go LM on all my private laptops + delided cpus, gpus and never have any problem. For me its just a big W.
@@MrLivewire1970 You need big upper arms for that, but good thing is singles typically train their whole arm instead of only the forearm, so you should be fine. Btw the mod is about 100g+ Deck
And they're like 'well it's not reccomended, but you do you'. Reminds me of that one Hogfather quote that goes around. Paraphrasing: "It's a sword, it's not supposed to be safe. What if she hurts herself? That would be a very important lesson."
Looks like a solid mod. No risk if you use electrical tape and ever changed thermal paste to begin with. I'm definitely doing this. Lower fan means quieter and longer battery, can't go wrong.
You could potentially 'lock' that liquid metal under the heatsink with liquid electrical tape and just cover all around the edge, assuming only a light coating is used so you can remove it later if needed. Hell, maybe RTV silicone the heatsink to the CPU.
You can't use liquid metal in a handheld console without proper cpu preparation.Liquid metal is very fluid, especially when heated. Any vibrations of your console can cause liquid metal to spread.
Imo liquid metal isn’t worth the risk, I liquid metal’d a laptop, was very thorough with covering everything that could short on the mother board with liquid electrical tape and over time I still ran into issues with many mysterious crashes and losing functionality like hdmi port and lately can’t get any microphone to be recognized 🤷🏻♂️ I’d recommend just a higher quality traditional paste.
I agree with you, i have also use LM, yes the temps and all are better, but the risk are so big even if you think you do everything correct the LM can sipp out and make your gaming laptop into a nonGaming deadtop. For me it stopped reciving power from the power cable when in heavy use, the power adapter was fine, the power jack was fine and the battery was fine, i checked with multimeter and even orderd new adapter and power jack, still same issue. When i tried to play games on the battery fps in games was normal, yes i know its bad to play on battery, this was for test, i also tok inn the power adapter and fps went from 30 to 10 with the power inn. Lucky i sent it in to the warrenty and got a new motherboard coverd under warrenty. So i will be sticking to thermal paste.
Congratulation Agent-B you've attained a steamdeck-1000! Have a good last few months of your life as you defend from the resulting box of terror. You have opened Hell on Earth I hope you're happy, you have doomed us all.
At 4:40 both of the decks are running different aspect ratios meaning different resolutions. Not a fair test at the one on the right has to render 10% more pixels.
I would personally use either bathtub Silicone caulk that's known to be electronics safe, or decent nail polish that doesn't decompose under heat of both APU and heatsink. Still, I am considering looking at using liquid metal thermal paste for a few electronics like my old APU laptop that may be due for thermal paste replacement soon.
I just got my Q3 Steam Deck and the first thing I did after a few hours of gaming was swap out stock TIM for kryonaut and added tiny copper heat sync to charging IC. My next move will be making a completely custom heat spreader with heat sync that sticks out of the back of the steam deck.
No it wont. The Fan uses very very little power. The SOC would even tend to use more power cause it can get rid of the heat faster, so either nearly no improvement or even worse battery life. But either way barely anything if anything.
@@nxy6123 this improves battery life 100%, especially when you limit frames to 60 or less. The APU runs more efficient when it is cooler. (Less leakage current) The APU is limited to lets say 12W or 15W no matter if you use liquid metal or not. In bothcases it gets max 15W or so.
@@McKuc still no. The apu wont magically use less power, also you forget that the screen ssd and everything else also uses power. Apu is Max 15w, also tdp isnt max power ussage. PCs are a great example - CPUs can Spike much higher if they like to and can get rid of the heat, but i can Tell you that the steamdeck doesnt do that. So no battery improvement at all by using liquid metal.
Big question did using the liquid metal extend the time you could run games compared to the base steam deck. Since the fan is not spinning as fast this is a question I would love answered.
It does, especially if you limit fps to 60 or less. When a Processor gets hotter, it looses efficiency too. (More leakage current) Cooler is always better. I undervolted my GPU and CPU. Pc is quieter and has the same performance with 60W less. It got more efficient
@@McKuc in addition fan itself also consume some power, and less speed save maybe 0.25-0.5W, for steam deck it is a big deal. Sad that author didn't show power consumption from battery (with disconnected wall charger).
At 12:00 timestamp, were the application settings the same between the two devices? The non-liquid metal version shows 4GB of VRAM and 9.2+0.5GB of RAM usage while the one with liquid metal installed shows 3.7GB of VRAM and 8.6+0.0GB of RAM used.
Spinning slower doesn’t change the longevity of the overall fan whatsoever. It’s rated to spin up to a certain speed, if it spins anywhere within that speed, static, it will last as long as any other speed within that range. Constantly changing speed is what kills fans, so if you have dynamic profiles where the fan can go real slow, then real fast when needed, that will actually harm longevity.
i plan to do this mod , but with ehither 388 silicone , or a thermally conductive silcone sealent around the chip since smd caps still produce heat (anything with current flow will ) , i also plan to get another backplate and cut out sections to replace with ehither copper or aluminium plates in places to cool the charge controller , memory , attach to the heat pipe for extra output dissipation and any other heat producing components i can find , the way i see it i dont buy gear like this often and id like to make my deck run as cool as it can for as long as it can , lower tamps arent just about performance and battery life or even just sound , a cooler chip will live longer , thats my plan anyway , might post a vid in a few months when i get me deck and hopefully after all has gone well , we shall see
Lol tell that to my old overclocked fx based pc that lives in the living room. Built it back in 2012 I belive and it still heats the living room to this day, been running at 4.9ghz the entire time.
B/c liquid metal comes out of the syringe so weird, a good tip is to never directly apply it on your chip, just in case it squirts...easy way to brick a motherboard.
Can’t say the temps or fan noise have been a problem I’ve noticed. I live in the U.K. though so I suppose if you live somewhere warmer it might be more of a problem.
As shown in another YT vid, there are some success with replacing the OG thermal compound, in this case, Thermalright TFX, without using this LM risky stuff. I have replaced the thermal compound on my Deck, and getting temps, around 4-6 degrees lower. Seems that valve used a very cheap thermal compound. I am wondering, if replacing the thermal pads would do another improvement.
There is a possible chance you haven't got full coverage on the chip. The double stacked tape overlapping each other and the tape already on the heatsink is more than likely preventing a good close contact.
I'm using this as a reference for LM'ing my gaming laptop. So just to get this right, to prevent issues with liquid metal I need to use some combination of these to protect my motherboard? - Kapton tape / Polyimide tape OR regular electric tape - nail polish coating OR Thermal Grizzly Shield coating - silicone sealant barrier OR non-conductive thermal paste barrier around the CPU die I bought pretty much all of these to make it as hard as possible to mess up. The only thing micro center didn't have in stock was the actual liquid metal. Is there anything else I'm missing if I want to do this as protected as possible?
Not to call you out in any way but why are your stream decks in different resolutions for this test? I don't think the numbers are quite accurate if they are both running slightly different. Notice at 12:36 in the video, amount of black bars on the two models differentiate quite a bit.
I'd only use this stuff on a PC that doesn't move and only on a motherboard that is laid horizontally. This stuff gets even runnier as it heats up and will drip into components. I've seen dozens of nightmare images and videos of it ended up in fans and splattered all over the inside of cases.
its better ptm 7950 ,yeah liquid metal is the FASTEST to transfer heat ,but its also electrical conductive ,where ptm7950 is almost as good ,but no problem with conductivity ,both of them exceed any thermal paste or tim ,period. the thing that no one seems to understand is that you need to move heat faster ,so a "limited" cooler like steam deck can cool fast enough the soc. thats why fan blow slower with liquid metal or ptm7950. its because the heat is removed FASTER not BETTER. maths are important :) . Also yeah the cooler is pretty limited ,they should do a little larger or with more fins xD. anyways if anyone is gonna use liquid metal ive been using it with nail polish to protect the SMD around the cores for years without a single fail. nail polish FTW.
You should revisit this with cryoutilities and overclocking / undervolting and a higher TDP and present the numbers. I'm too lazy to do AB testing other than quick rough testing for myself. I am considering going to LM as I initially just went with kryonaut extreme. I am running 20w TDP and 4ghz CPU 2ghz GPU with -50mv across the apu with cryoutilities default recommended settings and thermal seems to be my current bottleneck.
Awesome channel just discovered you instant sub for me... And with all due respect You remind me of a super cool Sheldon Cooper!!... Awesome in the most respected way great vid bro!
There is no posibillity, and the socs gpu will most likely still be faster anyways. The only way would be custom mainboard, custom firmware, bigger cooling solution etc. So no.
► Big thanks to Autonomous for sponsoring today's video. Check out their Dream Setups here: bit.ly/3JvGGpK
should have went with valve's og colors, baby shit green.
Someone is claiming to be you by saying they are giving away a free PC
Clear nail polish or conformal coating would have been safer.
@@1up4evr7 Don't react to this, it's a scam. I received multiple messages like this already on YT.
To anyone wanting to do this, please do NOT use electrical tape like in the video. This is fine for prototyping but the tape will come off the board with heat and time and allow any extra liquid metal to flow onto critical components. Please use something like ASI 388 or another electronics grade silicone to do this job. I have used it successfully on a LM reapplication in my 2021 Zephyrus G15 which had a poor OEM LM application from stock and had very high temps. The silicone creates a barrier and a seal between the motherboard/components and the heatsink so that LM cannot escape.
Which would you recomend? I only know great big cartriges id trust, but using like 2g from ~300g is just not my goal... My other idea would be foam tape which seems to work with temps up to maybe 150° without any issue (plus it would suck up any excess) but yea...
@@nxy6123 I used ASA 388 but there are other brands out there as well. Just make sure it's electrics grade which ensures that the catalyst and other components of the sealant aren't corrosive. I used Silver King brand liquid metal since the Thermal Grizzly brand was in short supply last year and was selling at scalpers prices. The Silver King stuff worked just fine and my Zephyrus G15 has been performing very well and staying cool since reapplying the LM a year ago.
that tape is just to cover the surroundings while spreading the liquid, he removed after that
@@MrDvneil even worse then. The liquid metal can flow out over time and contact the SMDs.
@@glsracer uh can I use lots of thermal paste to do the same thing?
You can actually notice once it got hotter that the older version was ~90 degrees on the CPU and the liquid metal stayed at 83 degrees, not to mention the 1200 rpm difference!
der8auer used few layers of nail polish, just painting over SMDs. Creates a protective film.
Gotta be one that is nitrocellulose based, and contains no toluene.
Not worth the risk but fun video! I actually might try this when someone creates a custom heatsink supporting liquid metal and a proper guard rail. Shouldn't be too hard especially if a custom back side is provided.
I think I'd rather use capton tape instead. Over time, the adhesive on that electrical tape is going to turn to a goo that is a major PITA to get off.
nail polish of the acrylic variety works quite well and insulates components. there is proper stuff to use but you can find used nail polish at your local store.
When applying liquid metal if you clean the chip using IPA first it'll apply much easier. I also recommend using the metal syringe tip and lightly scraping the die to make it apply easier
@@chloe-sunshine7 I see what you did there, wasn't funny.
@@joeblow8893 You're fun at parties...
Hopefully a potential thing that Valve will make in later iterations of of the Steam Deck, seeing as it's such a huge success for them after all.
Not!!
Especially with Playstation 5 console that uses it - the APU is nearly unusable with regular thermal paste, it would just overheat with it, so liquid metal thermal paste is used here to keep a rather powerful APU from melting.
i had to change my liquid metal every 6 months or so with my gigabyte aero 15.. it was so annoying. it would keep seeping into the copper heatsink and the temperatures were higher than before.
Depends to copper heat-sink and Liquid Metal type you need reapply as often as 2x per year, only solution is electroplating copper with nikiel
I’m planning on doing this to my steam deck.
I'm thinking of trying Honeywell's PTM7950 pads since it looks like it get's pretty close to liquid metal performance without the potential of destroying your device.
No is not( pretty close to liquid metal performance)
You are running at different resolutions on the two SDs (720p vs 800p)
better protection method is Thermal Grizzly Shield :)
Just use a harder thermal paste and paste it around the APU. It is going to block the liquid metal, if sth leaks
Just get yourself a ghost gunner. It's a desktop cnc designed with gunsmithing precision. That way you can mill whatever cool shit you want
Instead of electrical tape you should have used kapton tape
I still wouldn't recommend liquid metal like this in a portable system because you walk, run, jump and whatever with it in your backpack or whatever and that may make the liquid metal to really get everywhere.
If you make some proper isolation then it would be fine.
LM have big tension when u sandwich it beetwen soc and heatsink. It doesnt go anywhere. Just use some electrical grade silicon or general purpose varnish for pcb and u will be fine, nothing to worry about
@@SkeltherBot there will always be a bit outside of the CPU\GPU\SOC die and with a lot of shaking that thing can eventually get all over the place.
And sure you can cover the PCB but on something that you shake a lot it could look like a explosion of liquid metal happened inside specially if applied a lot and I don't think anyone would want to cover almost the entire PCB to protect against LM.
@@guily6669 it doesnt go anywhere because of tension. I go LM on all my private laptops + delided cpus, gpus and never have any problem. For me its just a big W.
Try this with the old fan curve and you got the coolest deck
You should use a dense foam and cut the shape out
Electrical tape will loose its sticky side after heat cycles.
Your hand gesture game is on point today.
I'd love to have the mod that Linus made.
No way. That thing would weigh a ton.
@@Harvey2Tall I'm single, I have strong wrist, lol.
@@MrLivewire1970 You need big upper arms for that, but good thing is singles typically train their whole arm instead of only the forearm, so you should be fine.
Btw the mod is about 100g+ Deck
Don't you just love that it's possible to piss about with a Steam Deck like this?
And they're like 'well it's not reccomended, but you do you'. Reminds me of that one Hogfather quote that goes around. Paraphrasing: "It's a sword, it's not supposed to be safe. What if she hurts herself? That would be a very important lesson."
my steam deck went from doing 89c on GTA 4 to a cool 69c to 70c. i also discovered that there was way too much thermal paste from the factory.
With LM or just new traditional thermal paste?
I applied liquid metal and saw incredible results. Not recommended though do it at your own risk. I still don't know what will happen in the long run.
@@2nmingo how’s it been so far
Its still holding pretty good so far. I want to open it to see how if there is any visible issues but i dont think there is much to worry right now
@@2nmingohow is it so far
Looks like a solid mod. No risk if you use electrical tape and ever changed thermal paste to begin with. I'm definitely doing this. Lower fan means quieter and longer battery, can't go wrong.
You cant use liquid metal like this in a portable system because its moving object and liquid is potently prone to splash around on components!
You could potentially 'lock' that liquid metal under the heatsink with liquid electrical tape and just cover all around the edge, assuming only a light coating is used so you can remove it later if needed.
Hell, maybe RTV silicone the heatsink to the CPU.
Fucken spammers
You can't use liquid metal in a handheld console without proper cpu preparation.Liquid metal is very fluid, especially when heated. Any vibrations of your console can cause liquid metal to spread.
Imo liquid metal isn’t worth the risk, I liquid metal’d a laptop, was very thorough with covering everything that could short on the mother board with liquid electrical tape and over time I still ran into issues with many mysterious crashes and losing functionality like hdmi port and lately can’t get any microphone to be recognized 🤷🏻♂️ I’d recommend just a higher quality traditional paste.
I agree with you, i have also use LM, yes the temps and all are better, but the risk are so big even if you think you do everything correct the LM can sipp out and make your gaming laptop into a nonGaming deadtop. For me it stopped reciving power from the power cable when in heavy use, the power adapter was fine, the power jack was fine and the battery was fine, i checked with multimeter and even orderd new adapter and power jack, still same issue. When i tried to play games on the battery fps in games was normal, yes i know its bad to play on battery, this was for test, i also tok inn the power adapter and fps went from 30 to 10 with the power inn. Lucky i sent it in to the warrenty and got a new motherboard coverd under warrenty. So i will be sticking to thermal paste.
Congratulation Agent-B you've attained a steamdeck-1000! Have a good last few months of your life as you defend from the resulting box of terror. You have opened Hell on Earth I hope you're happy, you have doomed us all.
At 4:40 both of the decks are running different aspect ratios meaning different resolutions. Not a fair test at the one on the right has to render 10% more pixels.
but the modded one has more to render?! so the results must be even better
I would personally use either bathtub Silicone caulk that's known to be electronics safe, or decent nail polish that doesn't decompose under heat of both APU and heatsink. Still, I am considering looking at using liquid metal thermal paste for a few electronics like my old APU laptop that may be due for thermal paste replacement soon.
You ran with scissors!
Man... Im waiting on my Steam Deck, then I watch 3 Decks on the hands of a butcher... I wanna cry.
I respect the earthbound music at 10:22
I just got my Q3 Steam Deck and the first thing I did after a few hours of gaming was swap out stock TIM for kryonaut and added tiny copper heat sync to charging IC. My next move will be making a completely custom heat spreader with heat sync that sticks out of the back of the steam deck.
You Are Doing Great
Actually giving liquid metal ended up doing great too
why running on different resolutions / screen ratio ? Good idea, wonder if some Kryonaut "cooling paste" will get better results than the stock one
With those modifications, it might even help with battery life. 🔋
No it wont. The Fan uses very very little power. The SOC would even tend to use more power cause it can get rid of the heat faster, so either nearly no improvement or even worse battery life. But either way barely anything if anything.
@@nxy6123 this improves battery life 100%, especially when you limit frames to 60 or less.
The APU runs more efficient when it is cooler. (Less leakage current)
The APU is limited to lets say 12W or 15W no matter if you use liquid metal or not.
In bothcases it gets max 15W or so.
@@McKuc still no. The apu wont magically use less power, also you forget that the screen ssd and everything else also uses power. Apu is Max 15w, also tdp isnt max power ussage. PCs are a great example - CPUs can Spike much higher if they like to and can get rid of the heat, but i can Tell you that the steamdeck doesnt do that.
So no battery improvement at all by using liquid metal.
Big question did using the liquid metal extend the time you could run games compared to the base steam deck. Since the fan is not spinning as fast this is a question I would love answered.
It does, especially if you limit fps to 60 or less. When a Processor gets hotter, it looses efficiency too. (More leakage current)
Cooler is always better.
I undervolted my GPU and CPU.
Pc is quieter and has the same performance with 60W less. It got more efficient
@@McKuc in addition fan itself also consume some power, and less speed save maybe 0.25-0.5W, for steam deck it is a big deal. Sad that author didn't show power consumption from battery (with disconnected wall charger).
Was not expecting to see cooler's dokkan battle art in this video
At 12:00 timestamp, were the application settings the same between the two devices? The non-liquid metal version shows 4GB of VRAM and 9.2+0.5GB of RAM usage while the one with liquid metal installed shows 3.7GB of VRAM and 8.6+0.0GB of RAM used.
@UFD Tech?
Spinning slower doesn’t change the longevity of the overall fan whatsoever. It’s rated to spin up to a certain speed, if it spins anywhere within that speed, static, it will last as long as any other speed within that range. Constantly changing speed is what kills fans, so if you have dynamic profiles where the fan can go real slow, then real fast when needed, that will actually harm longevity.
i plan to do this mod , but with ehither 388 silicone , or a thermally conductive silcone sealent around the chip since smd caps still produce heat (anything with current flow will ) , i also plan to get another backplate and cut out sections to replace with ehither copper or aluminium plates in places to cool the charge controller , memory , attach to the heat pipe for extra output dissipation and any other heat producing components i can find , the way i see it i dont buy gear like this often and id like to make my deck run as cool as it can for as long as it can , lower tamps arent just about performance and battery life or even just sound , a cooler chip will live longer , thats my plan anyway , might post a vid in a few months when i get me deck and hopefully after all has gone well , we shall see
Lol tell that to my old overclocked fx based pc that lives in the living room.
Built it back in 2012 I belive and it still heats the living room to this day, been running at 4.9ghz the entire time.
@@joeblow8893 well that makes sence really , if it heats the room , clearly the heat is coming out
B/c liquid metal comes out of the syringe so weird, a good tip is to never directly apply it on your chip, just in case it squirts...easy way to brick a motherboard.
Can’t say the temps or fan noise have been a problem I’ve noticed. I live in the U.K. though so I suppose if you live somewhere warmer it might be more of a problem.
Is it really safe to use electrical tape on a heat source close to 100 degrees? I used polyamide heat resistant tape on my PS4, better safe than sorry
I just ordered one..I wonder if it will come with the old loud fan.
but isn't the steam deck caught by design? you know because it's steam powered
@@giovannirusso9869 I appreciate you commenting on those spam bots. I hope TH-cam can do something about them, I see them on most of my comments.
I'm wondering, how does the Steam Deck do with Playstation emulators?
LM just make heat transfer to radiator more efficient..the problem is too small radiator and fan.
As shown in another YT vid, there are some success with replacing the OG thermal compound, in this case, Thermalright TFX, without using this LM risky stuff. I have replaced the thermal compound on my Deck, and getting temps, around 4-6 degrees lower. Seems that valve used a very cheap thermal compound. I am wondering, if replacing the thermal pads would do another improvement.
There is a possible chance you haven't got full coverage on the chip. The double stacked tape overlapping each other and the tape already on the heatsink is more than likely preventing a good close contact.
It isnt
Hiw about the batry life, is that little bit increase, or just same ?
conformal coating is a magical thing
Man I love this channel !
I also put liquid metal on my laptop about 2 years ago. Managed to slash 15 degC off my temps.
I'm using this as a reference for LM'ing my gaming laptop.
So just to get this right, to prevent issues with liquid metal I need to use some combination of these to protect my motherboard?
- Kapton tape / Polyimide tape OR regular electric tape
- nail polish coating OR Thermal Grizzly Shield coating
- silicone sealant barrier OR non-conductive thermal paste barrier around the CPU die
I bought pretty much all of these to make it as hard as possible to mess up. The only thing micro center didn't have in stock was the actual liquid metal. Is there anything else I'm missing if I want to do this as protected as possible?
Not to call you out in any way but why are your stream decks in different resolutions for this test? I don't think the numbers are quite accurate if they are both running slightly different. Notice at 12:36 in the video, amount of black bars on the two models differentiate quite a bit.
Big bruh moment not gonna lie
Very awesome! Noticeable results too!
Got a question I thought you’re not supposed to use liquid metal against copper due to the fact that it’s highly corrosive to Copper.
Corrosive to aluminum. Not copper
Kapton tape is your fried when it comes to liquid metal.
Use nail polish or tg protective varnish for this stuff.
@@giovannirusso9869 i know have worked with cleaning ransomeware from scammers😂 they are everywhere!
Do You actually need to cover both surfaces with the LM ? I genuinely dont know
Cool. Thanks for doing this.
thanks man!
Is it OK to play ste deck at temperatures staying around 70-80?
What are Valves Colors? .. Answer: Skittles.
at 10:24 he sounded like kermet for a second
I'd only use this stuff on a PC that doesn't move and only on a motherboard that is laid horizontally. This stuff gets even runnier as it heats up and will drip into components. I've seen dozens of nightmare images and videos of it ended up in fans and splattered all over the inside of cases.
When someone got two steam decks. But I cry in no deck😭😭
its better ptm 7950 ,yeah liquid metal is the FASTEST to transfer heat ,but its also electrical conductive ,where ptm7950 is almost as good ,but no problem with conductivity ,both of them exceed any thermal paste or tim ,period. the thing that no one seems to understand is that you need to move heat faster ,so a "limited" cooler like steam deck can cool fast enough the soc. thats why fan blow slower with liquid metal or ptm7950. its because the heat is removed FASTER not BETTER. maths are important :) . Also yeah the cooler is pretty limited ,they should do a little larger or with more fins xD. anyways if anyone is gonna use liquid metal ive been using it with nail polish to protect the SMD around the cores for years without a single fail. nail polish FTW.
$100k in Solidworks licenses? Yo ho yo ho a p****** life for me.
So, is it still holding? I am curious
7:41 WOOOOOOOOOOW somebody give him a strike, running with scissors for shame 😟✂️ lol
Instead of electrical tape you can use clear fingernail polish.
How can i know which fan in my steam? By the way i got it last week?
You should revisit this with cryoutilities and overclocking / undervolting and a higher TDP and present the numbers. I'm too lazy to do AB testing other than quick rough testing for myself. I am considering going to LM as I initially just went with kryonaut extreme. I am running 20w TDP and 4ghz CPU 2ghz GPU with -50mv across the apu with cryoutilities default recommended settings and thermal seems to be my current bottleneck.
The face when he say follow todays video sponsors looks like he dislike the sponsor so much he wants to puke
So steam deck can get RROD? Or YLOD? Ye kan bang?
Did you leave the tape on inside?
clear nail polish also works
Was this stock thermal paste vs liquid metal?
I would do Copper Mod on it with some Shims. Just nuked all my high temps with copper shims.
10:17 LMFAO. Love your content!
I haven't finished watching but it looks like he used about 4x the amount needed
Where did you get that desk pad?
Awesome channel just discovered you instant sub for me... And with all due respect You remind me of a super cool Sheldon Cooper!!... Awesome in the most respected way great vid bro!
Compare is not precise, one use resolution 1280x720 second 1280x800 is no big difference but in this case ....
@UFDTech what’s the possibility of upgrading the cpu to the new 6800U AMD . Due to Deck being AMD already .
There is no posibillity, and the socs gpu will most likely still be faster anyways. The only way would be custom mainboard, custom firmware, bigger cooling solution etc.
So no.
This was rad
2:35 .... .... .... .... ...........
put thermal past at the edges of liquid metal and you are safe i did this to my laptop and my pc 2 month ago
The title 💀
@@giovannirusso9869 i know, thanks for warning me though! Too many people fool for these
Awesome results indeed but super risky mod. Choose wisely
Steam Deck Kanal D logo ya benziyor.
Great video
Liquid metal is awesome!
I will also be using foam barrier but still nice video lmao
Doesn’t electrical tape get all greasy and gross over time? (And in heat)
you think valve would announce not to do this on twitter lol
That pony vid takes me back lol