HOW TO: DRAFT A BASIC BODICE BLOCK using the Natalie Bray Version. Pt 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video , I give a detailed explanation on how to draft the Natalie Bray's Bodice block. In all my years of sewing, having tried a couple of basic bodice blocks. This has got to be the best yet! The fit is almost great at the first try.
Although it is not very beginners friendly but it gets clear after a few tries, which is totally worth it in my opinion. Please watch till the end, I added a few screen shots of the pattern pages to help if you need to practice further.
Also, there is a part part 2 to this video, where I sew and test the fit of the block. Kindly subscribe, and give a thumbs up.
Thanks so much for stopping by!
Find the PDF of the book here
tr.ee/4pfb-RbmPQ
You do good work.plz keep on posting and giving us that energy.Neat and classic work!
Thanks so much
You simplified the pattern. Weldone🎉
the absolute best tutorial i have seen. so many tips and nuggets dropped. thank you so much Mercy. wow
Thank you so much and you’re welcome ☺️
Waow... This is wonderful, you're giving this for free!
You're blessed 💟
I'll try it out although I'm used to Helen Armstrong
Thank you! And you should.
Wow this is a lovely teaching that I have not seen in a long while. Please keep the energy going. Please can you teach us also body measurement❤❤❤
Thank you, I will
fantastic. this is really detailed
I will try this block, I have been hearing of it. will give it a try thanks for sharing
Thank you so much!
well explained. THANK YOU.
I have really come to like your tutorial. Thanks so much for your educative videos
You are very welcome♥️
U are indeed a good tutor and a very good one the Natalie Bray pattern has been somehow to me but u made it way easier tank u hope to see more of u mercy 😘😍😍😍😍
🤗♥️
This was a good watch, easy to understand but I got a little bit confused because of the cm measurement. Can you make a video using inches, please
I saw your work on Pinterest and I followed you to this place.
Glad to have your here♥️
Me tooo☺️
Whew! I made it through! 🎉
You are a Godsend 💕🙌🏾
🤗♥️
This isn’t my favorite pattern but you made it easy to understand. ❤❤
Glad you found this helpful 😊
What's your favourite pattern,please?
What's your favorite pattern,please?
@@user-iw7br3bx5z Helen Armstrong
Thanks for this totorial, pls can you show us how you took your measurements 🙏🏻🙏🏻, thank you
Yes I will
I'm in too
How do you measure underbust line for rtw?
Infact I don't know what to say buh thank you so much😊
You’re so welcome . Thanks for watching ❤️
Good, God bless you
Very helpful ❤
Glad you think so!
Thank you ma ❤
Natalie Bray isn't my best pattern but you explained well. For the back shoulder dart the excess I have is 6cm. When sewing it on the fabric it's pointy like the front, please what could be the problem?
Instead of using your 1/4 chest line use half of your bust span/ width for a bespoke fitting, use your bust point instead of coming down 4cm because it’s not same with all your client except you are using it for RTW
Each bodice block is drafted based on a clients measurement. The Bust point cannot be on the same line as the Armhole depth/line hence why it needs to be moved down 4cm
I agree, for better fit with a bespoke garment.
@@ribbonsnstitchesbyruthify9690
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awesome video and great teaching if you don't mind for we that don't use cm that are so use to inches can you do a video in inches version thanks.
Great suggestion!
Can I ask why you did not use actual waist measurement? I used your tutorial but the waist came out quite big, and I’m not sure which part to adjust
Sure! A basic block is drafted in its simplest form , which means it needs to be fitted/ altered before the final finish. Further in the book it shows how to remove excesses around the waist . Also I made a follow up video and explained how I used the excess as my seam allowance.
HOW TO: SEW A BASIC BODICE BLOCK ( Natalie Bray). / Fit Test
th-cam.com/video/jGzkBnH3fpY/w-d-xo.html
If you don’t have a pdf copy of the book. You can request a copy by sending a DM on IG
@@mercyadamsinseams okay thanks a lot. I’m trying to use this video to get to the corset dress as I’m sewing it for myself to attend a wedding next weekend. So I’m worried the waist coming out big would be an issue and affect getting a snatched corset
@Deebaby17 got it! On the corset pattern , you can ease out as much excess as you want to achieve the snatched look. Just make sure to use you factor your seam allowances as well.
Mercy!!! You are God sent. I have been looking for you does Nathinel Bray's pattern. Thank you for coming through 🙏 I'm definitely following you back to back.
😊🤗
How do I convert the centimeter to inches
On the back of the tape, where there’s inches on top and cm below . So if you need to convert 2.5cm to 1 inch . Just look on the top part with inches . Where ever 2.5cm is, basically just note the part. I will be posting a tutorial this coming Sunday that better illustrate this
Please, when you're drafting, should you use your own measurements or closest to the average sizes the book gives?
You have to use your own measurements . You just need your bust size as a guide to know what part it falls on the proportion table
Thnk you so much Mercy ,Good bless u ,pls can u make this downloadable..
Haven't try cm before cause it kind of confuse me but you are good hope you can share how to take measurements 🙏
Thank you so much 😊
You're welcome 😊
Is it important to add the 5cm extra at the bust and 3cm at the hip.
Yes it is, those measurements are for added ease in the block. Can adjusted later during fitting or converted to the side seam allowance
Nice turorial .is the length to waist front or back length
Hi guys! If you want a pdf copy of the book I used in this tutorial ‘Dress Pattern’ by Natalie Bray. Send me a DM on instagram with your email. ❤❤
Aawww man I just brought this book thank you so much for your help I’m going to try it again to fix my underbust
The Instagram link please
Thanks ma'am, I really do need it
Link in my bio
Hi mercy! Thanks for the awesome tutorials. Pls can you do this basic bodice in inches? I don't mind if it paid tutorial. Thanks
Thank you so much for this! I was wondering, can this pattern drafting system be used for bigger bust sizes? For example the Armstrong and Aldrich systems are drafted for B cups standard, so you have to make a full bust adjustment. I'm wondering if this system works for bigger busts without major adjustments? I hope im clear lol, thanks again.
Yes I’ve used the Natalie brays bodice for a bust size over 50” . What I do is, on the proportion table I do a continuation following how they graded it. For example, if the table ends at 116( i grade it 4cm more) for the dart, i increase it based on the grading method.and so forth. Till I have a proportion that matches or falls within the bust size I’m drafting. I hope this helps.
@@mercyadamsinseams Thank you so much! I'm trying to understand this method well before I try my hands at it, I really appreciate the feedback.
@@mercyadamsinseamssame thing I do which works. Great tutorial. Well done.
@takyiwah2022, pls I want to learn Armstrong. I have the book but don't know where to learn the basics from
Please ma ,Can you tutor me personal , even how you sew it .
So nice and detailed but pls can you do it in inches for we that use cm cos it’s really confusing and making it difficult to deeply understand. Thanks
Thanks, it was very interesting. But pls y is d front pattern always bigger than the back.
Mostly because of the bust span
Thank you for this detailed video. I draft using this method, and the shoulder slope is usually not perfect for a lot of my clients, this is only noticeable when the outfit has the full shoulder length used or say 90% of the shoulder length used. Does this happen to you? What do you think i can do to fix this? Thank you.
What is the problem with it? Too slanted or not slanted enough? Pls elaborate.
@mercyadamsinseams the shoulder gapes at the neck point, but it's fitted nicely at the shoulder point. I guess it's too slanty
Are you talking about having much excess on the neck point of the centre back because I experienced that too and I don't know what the problem is
@@PreciousNnamani-te8wj my own excess is around the shoulder just at the neck point
Why is the chest measurement about 3 cm bigger than normal for all sizes. Is that for ease?
Yes it’s ease,
Great....well explained....nice voice. In a situation my bust, waist and hip is found in different columns, how do I go about it B- 43, w- 38, H-47 and waist length 19😢, all in inches?
Thank you. You will use the part of the proportion table that corresponds with just your bust measurement. The table of proportion is just a guide (that lets you know the dart size , neck size , etc . So never use the measurements listed in the book In place of yours.
@@mercyadamsinseams ok. Thank you so much
When you cut your pattern out, for the back, did you cut the center back on the curve line?
Yes I did .
Which pattern book are using please, hear you say from the book
I have WINFRED ALDRICH'S METRIC PATTERN CUTTING BOOK
Hi! I use Natalie Bray
Hi mercy thank you for your teaching. But pls am finding it very difficult to understand it because of the (centimeter) i.e the cm measurement you're using to teach. I only understand the inches part, so pls how do I relate it so I can understand what you're teaching
A quick tip , just turn to the reverse of your tape rule and check the equivalent inches in cm .
Thanks for the tutorial
Please activate the download button
Great! I wish the video is downloadable so as to go over the process as many times as possible offline until it sinks. Thanks 😘
Not sure why you can download, because I can see the download option from my end. But I will check again
@@mercyadamsinseams Aiit. Please do. Thanks for responding. I forgot to add that you have a soothing voice ☺️
Thank you so much for the detailed video. I wish I can download it as well 😢
Pls I wish I can download it pls can u do something about ir
Thank you Mercy for sharing your knowledge so we can learn . God bless you!
I have a question pls , d waist length you used while drafting at d back , do you take the measurement from the back or front ?
You’re welcome. The length to waist was taken from the nape of the neck along the center back .
@@mercyadamsinseams Thank you for your reply, so there's no need taking waist measurement from the nape of neck to the front waist
Yea. That’s right
Thank you for this detailed tutorial. To get the true waist line you said to go down 0.5cm for 92 bust, what about for bust 112, do l use the same 0.5cm?
For bust larger than 92cm you drop the true waistline by 1cm on the side of the waist and 1-2.5cm(based on how large the bust is) on the center front below the waistline. Pls send me a DM on IG with your email. I will send you a pdf copy of where you’ll find the proportions and also follow the guide in the book.
So bust 112 I’d use 1cm on the side of the waist and 2cm on cf below the waistline
Thank you. Really appreciate you taking time to respond.
I have sent you a DM on IG with my email for the pdf copy. Thank you
Gracias por compartir ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
🙏🙏
What do you mean by top arm measurement?
Top arm is the same as biceps
Hello ma thank you this wonderful video😍😍 I wanted ask what do you do when you have the back length XB is shorter than your actual one? When drafting the pattern do you put your actual measurement on the XB instead of the one in the book? Thank you
The only part of the table you use is the part that says ‘table for proportions’ the part that says table of average measurements is just a size grading table like size 2,4,6 and so on. So you only need your bust measurement to know what part of the proportions to use. But never use the average measurements in place of yours .
@@mercyadamsinseams ok thank you so much now it makes sense🙏🏽🙏🏽
Hey lovelies! Some of you requested for the ‘inches’ version of this tutorial .. you can watch it here
How draft a Basic Block / Natalie Bray version (INCHES)
th-cam.com/video/gx1I2TawlQ0/w-d-xo.html
To mark point O what is the standard measurements for other sizes. How are we supposed to know coz we don’t have the book to follow.
Point O varies with bust size .There’s screenshot of the proportion part of the table towards the end of the video .
Pls ma drop a video on how to take the measurements and also for the proportion table
It’s already up
Pls how did you get the dart value for the front? I thought it will be gotten by deducting the real waist measurement from the pattern waist?
The shoulder dart or waist dart? The shoulder dart is based on the bust size.( graded up or down based on the size of the bust)
Waist dart is constant( 2cm) for the back and 3cm for the front waist.
@@mercyadamsinseams the waist dart
hi... i just draft finish my back pattern... but my shoulder did not have extra of 1 to 2 cm from my actual measurement shoulder... i only got 0. 50 cm extra for the shoulder dart... my shoulder measurement is 12 cm.. assume i measure correctly... my back width is smaller which is 32cm... is it because my back width is smaller there for my shoulder is lesser then normal measurement? is this normal?? im very new in this pattern...
Hi, yes it happens as your drafting to your body measurements. In the updater version of this block, I show how to adjust the shoulder length to get extra for darts . Watch it here ( the shoulder part is around 32:00 min mark )
th-cam.com/video/gx1I2TawlQ0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=tSge6NOk0JjihldL
hi.. Thank you~~😊 i just finish the front pattern and also extend the shoulder length for the back... i want to ask for the back part.. if want to put the zip at the side instead of at the centre back like you did... i want the back pattern in 1 piece instead 2 pieces cut fabric... the shaping of centre back of 2cm, does it mean i need to move that 2cm to the back dart area?erm... which means each back darts will have 4cm.. is it correct?
U can use the inch too to draft this pattern
Please can we use any other bodice pattern to cut a corset.
Yea
Hi mercy how did you get the 75cm for the length of the dress . Thanks for the tutorial ❤
The 75cm was not at actual measurement,
@@mercyadamsinseams okayyy . I understand better but please can you do the Victorian corset pattern drafting … will definitely appreciate 🙏. Thank you
Thanks so much for this.. just curious…how does this method take care of the front been longer than the back… I don’t think I saw any bust dart…🤔
In what regards? I don’t quite get what part you’re referring to
The Point O (for the back bodice) is at a lower level than the corresponding area for the front bodice. Also, the shoulder dart for the front takes care of not having a bust dart. This method is really good (even for busty sizes - with a full bust adjustment); smaller bust sizes draft pretty easily, and the fit is perfect, barring torso length issues.
@@granted558 👏👏 thank you!
@@granted558 oh I see, thanks so much. I would watch it again,with this in mind.
@Mercy Adams You are welcome! You are also a very good tutor ( I have been using this method for a long time and would have loved to have had this video when I first started learning it 😁)
Oh mine! This is great! You are good gal! Please I will need the PDF copy. I searched you in instagram but can’t get your handle. Please what do I do? Thank you
Hey! You can click on my IG link on my TH-cam profile. It’s should take you to my account
Dyou have video on how to take the measurements?
Here!
How To Take Body Measurement For Basic Block | (DETAILED)
th-cam.com/video/qjFgST5_W_8/w-d-xo.html
Please whats the title of the book
Dress pattern designing by Natalie Bray
Pls what’s the formula for calculating a perfect neck width and dept
There’s a proportion table for each size drafted in the book(Natalie Bray) neck width is given in there based on the bust size. If you don’t have a copy of the book, message me on IG. I’ll send you a pdf.
@@mercyadamsinseams ok thank You so much
Is this block have seam allowance included???
It does.. but not all even. In part two(test fit) I show how to use the excess as seam allowance.
i think the armhole needs to end at 90 degree the way you do your neck, coz otherwise when back n front pieces are sown together, the curve wont look smooth
you can also measure the first dart line and mark the next as same length for the front shoulder dart, i was so confused when you marked it on the slant line without measuring it 😅
It’s great you have a good understanding of it. And thank you for your input 😅👏
@@mercyadamsinseams i have studied fashion design, but once i started working in the industry, my main job was about fabrics, embroidery designs etc and i had pattern master to do the drafting. i felt like making something now, so i am watching basic bodice videos on youtube to jog my memory haha.
I find patterns made in cm difficult to understand
Why?
Good
Thank you!
❤
This was great. But my waist measurements become way bigger than it is supposed to be.
Mine too :( And the upper was to short..
Just sent you a message on your Instagram. I included my Gmail address for the PDF copy of the book. Thanks for inspiring me. Much love😘
Hello ma'am. Do you take full package pattern online class?
Hi. Virtual and online classes are coming soon
@@mercyadamsinseams okay ma’am. Please kindly notify me thanks
Sure . I will post updates as soon as it becomes available
What book are you referring to?
Dress pattern by Natalie bray .
Good evening dear, please I don't have Instagram, how can I get the PDF of the Natalie Bray pattern
You can send me an email, and I’ll forward it to you. My email is linked in my bio
Wow that will be great ma, I will,. I stopped sewing because of some issues I faced with inaccurate measurements. But when I watched your video my hope got restored. Thanks so much ma
I'm deeply sorry for the disturbance ma
Isn't the 12.5 cm too much for that bust measurement?
Pls list the time stamp in the video to better understand your question
How did you get armhole line
Got this from the proportion table in the book. If you do want a pdf copy . Pls send me a message on IG with your email.
@@mercyadamsinseams send me your email
Justinaibiam@
Where can one get the proportion table?
I put a picture of it towards the end. You can pause and screen shot
Hi Mercy, have you ever come across where the bust overlaps?
Yes! Happens mostly on bigger bust. That’s why I mentioned in the video , I always like to leave more margin in between the pattern. For example instead of leaving 4-5cm for the margin . I leave way more. Because it doesn’t affect the blocks in anyway . It only just leaves enough spacing between the back and the front bodice. So the more spacing in between
.. the better. You won’t have to worry about hips or bust overlapping
I hope this helps♥️
Yes it helps. Thank you. Really appreciate you taking time to respond.
What’s the difference between from chest width and bust ??
The chest width is measured above the bust. Going from one side of the arm to the other .
See this video for context
How To Take Body Measurement For Basic Block | (DETAILED)
th-cam.com/video/qjFgST5_W_8/w-d-xo.html
ممكن مساعدتي ارغب بالمتابعه لكنني لااجيد إلا العربيه وقليل جدا الانكليزيه
New to your channel, and I am impressed with the output. HOWEVER, your reach will be limited. WHY? You are not appealing to the masses; use BOTH METRIC AND IMPERIAL. In addition provide the necessary resources, especially since you used specific measurements.
What is the name of the reference guide used?
Thanks
Thanks for the feedback
Pls can you be more audible in your video. Nice work
Please put up for download
I will .
للاسف لااستطيع معرفة ماتقومين به لان لغتي العربيه ولا اجيد اللغه الاجنبيه
What is your Facebook handle
Y can't i download it😥
I’ll look into it.
@@mercyadamsinseamsplease ma we need God bless you 🙏
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